If you have ever been intrigued by the idea of growing mushrooms in your garden, this list of the best mushrooms to grow at home will help get you started. Even if you are a beginner mushroom gardener, there are a few delicious culinary mushrooms that you can easily grow. You don’t even really need a lot of space, because they can be grown indoors and in jars, as well as out in the garden.
When it comes to growing vegetables, many don’t consider adding mushrooms to their list. Okay, technically they’re fungi and not a vegetable but we sure do treat them like one! They’re so tasty in stir-fries, pasta, and even fresh from the garden.
I’ve been interested in growing mushrooms at home for many years, and have grown them successfully outdoors in both bags and on logs. I’ve tried shiitake and oyster mushrooms and after reading about the other easy-to-grow types of mushrooms, I want to grow them all!
Permaculture farmers Kristen Bradley and Nick Ritar have a whole chapter of their book, Milkwood: Real Skills for Down-To-Earth Living(Murdoch Books, 2019) on growing mushrooms. It’s filled with the biology and history of mushrooms and projects to cultivate mushrooms at home like mushroom bags, jars, and holey buckets. They were kind enough to share their go-to mushrooms to grow at home at the end of this post, so be sure to read on!
Learn the best methods for growing mushrooms at home below, applying these practices inside or outside.
How to Grow Mushrooms Inside
Did you know it’s actually easier to grow mushrooms inside?
Because you can control the conditions, they grow much quicker indoors than they would outside. When it comes to growing mushrooms, you can buy growing kits to makes things easier or start from scratch on your own. Just make sure to purchase from reputable dealers only.
Spores Vs Spawn
You can buy either spore or spawn. Think of mushroom spores like seeds and spawn as seedlings. Spawn will be much easier to grow for beginners.
Location
Mushrooms enjoy a cool, dark, and damp location best. A basement or inside a cabinet or closet are all good locations.
You can use a container to grow them, such as empty salad containers you get at the grocery store. Just make sure the container is at least 6 inches deep to allow the mycelium (a mushroom root system) to grow.
Starting Mushrooms
Different mushrooms will like different mediums. Some like to grow in coffee grounds while others prefer sawdust. Refer to the fruiting substrates in the section below on different types of mushrooms to know what to use for each.
To start your mushroom, place the spawn on its preferred growing medium. You will want to start your mushrooms at 70°F. You will want to use a thermometer to ensure you have the right temperature for your mushrooms.
If necessary, you can place their container on a heating pad to help warm them up. For the first little while, mushrooms need to remain undisturbed. Limit their exposure to heat, light, and drafts.
Once they have rooted, you can lower the temperature. This will take a few weeks. Like growing mediums, each mushroom has a preferred temperature that you can also find listed.
When you lower the temperature, you will want to cover the spawn with an inch of potting soil. Cover the soil with a damp cloth and spritz the cloth to keep it wet.
Harvesting Mushrooms
Your mushrooms will be ready to harvest when the cap has fully opened and separated from the stem. This takes 3-4 weeks on average.
Avoid pulling your mushrooms as this may damage the surrounding fungi.
FAQ About Growing Mushrooms
Is it Difficult to Grow Mushrooms?
Not at all! In fact, it’s easier to do at home inside than outside. You can harvest mushrooms in about 3-4 weeks inside after you cover the spawn with soil. Outside, this process can take anywhere from 6 months to 3 years depending on the type of mushroom!
Since mushrooms don’t contain chlorophyll, they don’t require any sunlight to grow.
Will Mushrooms Grow Back After You Pick Them?
Once you harvest a mushroom, its stem will rot away. New mushrooms may emerge and grow from other spawns or spores. To ensure you have a continuous crop, you may need to add more spawn.
Should You Pull or Cut Mushrooms?
Avoid pulling mushrooms to harvest. This can damage surrounding fungi and the mycelium below. Instead, cut the mushroom with a sharp knife right on the stalk.
The Best Types of Mushrooms to Grow at Home
by Kristen Bradley & Nick Ritar
Published with permission from Murdoch Books Australia and Quarto Homes; photographs courtesy of Kristen Bradley, Kate Berry, and Ann F Berger (CC).
Clusters of Pearly Oyster Mushrooms
Pleurotus ostreatus (Pearl Oyster)
The species we recommend starting with for bucket or jar cultivation is the pearl oyster. There are lots of Pleurotus (oyster) species, including Pleurotus djamor (pink oyster), Pleurotus eryngii (king oyster), and Pleurotus citrinopileatus (golden oyster).
However, some of these other varieties are slightly more fiddly than Pleurotus ostreatus, so pearl oyster is a good starting point.
Preferred Fruiting Substrates
Oyster mushrooms prefer pasteurised straw or sawdust, but will fruit well on most farm waste products containing cellulose and lignin. They also like hardwood logs or stumps for outdoor cultivation.
Waste coffee grounds are becoming popular among urban growers of oyster mushrooms, but note that they must be used while very fresh as they have a relatively high nutrient content and can be prone to contamination.
Climate
Pleurotus ostreatus are awesomely adaptable and will tolerate a range of growing conditions. They should fruit anywhere from 7–25°C (45–77°F).
Time from Inoculation to Fruiting
These mushrooms grow quickly. From 2 to 3 weeks for indoor cultivation, depending on ambient temperature and the inoculation rates of substrate.
Pleurotus rryingii (King Oyster)
Considered by many to be the best tasting oyster mushroom, king oysters are a meaty, full feast that can be sliced and barbecued. They crisp up when stir-fried, yet stay wonderfully chewy and nutty.
They can be grown in a similar way to pearl oysters, but their superior flavour makes them worth mentioning. Once you’ve mastered pearl oysters, give them a go.
Shiitake mushrooms emerging from eucalyptus log
Lentinula edodes (Shiitake)
Shiitake is a great species to use when you are starting outdoor cultivation. They will grow on logs in your garden. Although they’re a lot slower to fruit than oyster mushrooms, if you inoculate a batch of logs every year (or even better, every season), you can soon have a regular supply of shiitakes.
Preferred fruiting substrates:
Hardwood logs of almost every type, though yields will vary according to the log species. Eucalypts work well if you can’t find oak, beech, or alder. They can also be grown on sawdust.
Climate
There are different strains of shiitake, but the main strain that we use fruits between 14 and 20°C (57 and 68°F), which is a wide enough bracket for most temperate climates. There are both colder and warmer strains that fruit below, and above, that temperature envelope.
Time from Inoculation to Fruiting
Long. On logs: from 6 to 12 months (or longer), depending on climate and inoculation rates of the log. On sawdust blocks: 7 to 10 weeks. Worth the wait!
Agrocybe aegerita (Velvet Pioppini)
Native to poplar wood, this is a delicious mushroom with a nutty bite. It’s great for stir-fries and other cooking methods.
Preferred Fruiting Substrates
Hardwood sawdust is best. This one is great for jar cultivation. It also does well on logs and stumps.
Climate
Keep it cool –pioppinos like to stay around 13–18°C (55–64°F), and tend to fruit in the spring, after the colder months.
Time from Inoculation to Fruiting
Long – 8 to 12 months for outdoor log cultivation or about 6 weeks for indoor cultivation.
Stropharia_rugosoannulata copyright Ann F. Berger
Stropharia rugosoannulata (King Stropharia or Garden Giant)
This is our favourite mushroom to grow in wood chip gardens. It’s easy to grow and delicious to eat.
Preferred Fruiting Substrates
Hardwood wood chips are preferred, but, like oyster mushrooms, king stropharia will grow in straw and many other farm waste products.
Climate
King stropharia grow in a very broad range of temperatures, from about 5–35°C (41–95°F), so they’re great for both temperate and subtropical climates. They do need good moisture, however, so make sure this is supplied consistently.
Time from Inoculation to Fruiting
Long. About 4 to 6 months, depending on inoculation rates and which substrate you use.
More Mushrooming Fun
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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If you’re growing tiger flowers (Tigridia pavonia) in your outdoor landscape, then they might need a bit of protection from harsh chills over the winter depending on where you live.
By keeping the bulbs – sorry, they’re technically corms – warm and insulated during the dormant season, they’ll be ready to produce gorgeous new flowers and foliage come spring.
It’s important to winterize them properly otherwise the corms may end up damaged by cold and unable to produce new growth when replanted.
In this article, we’ll go through the steps you need to take to lift and store tiger flower corms over the winter months for replanting in spring.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
How to Winterize Tigridia Flowers
The following protocol is only necessary for plants growing USDA Hardiness Zone 6 and below.
In Zone 7 or above, all you have to do is remove the foliage after it dies down to the ground and ensure that the corms are insulated with a couple inches of mulch before resuming care in spring.
Now, onto the steps!
Step One: Lift the Plants
By autumn, the stems, leaves, and branches of your tiger flowers will have died to the ground. Cut and remove this dead tissue for the compost pile.
Next, use a spade to lift the clump out of the soil, starting several inches back from the plants on all sides.
I personally prefer to use spading or digging forks, as their spread-out tines have a lower chance of damaging the bulbs, yet still do a great job of lifting.
Shake the soil off the corms as you dig them up. When they’re all out of the ground, cut off any remaining shoot tissue an inch above the crown.
When we think about boosting the value of our homes, our minds usually go straight to kitchens, bathrooms, or loft conversions. But if you’ve got outdoor space, your garden could be just as powerful an asset.
With buyers increasingly keen on usable, attractive gardens, it’s worth asking: how can your garden add to the value of your home?
The value of outdoor space
Estate agents consistently highlight gardens as a priority for buyers in the UK. In fact, research has shown that a well-kept or beautifully staged garden can add anything from 5% to 20% to the value of your home, depending on the location and size of the plot. Given that the average property price is currently £299,331 according to Halifax, that’s a potential boost of around £15,000 – £60,000.
In a competitive market, a good garden can also be the deciding factor that helps your property stand out for potential buyers.
Garden improvements that add value to your home
Not every garden project has to be a grand redesign. Simple, thoughtful improvements can make your garden a real selling point.
1. First impressions: kerb appeal
The front garden is the first thing potential buyers see. A tidy lawn, neat paths, and a few pots with seasonal flowers can instantly make your home look more welcoming. This small effort sets the tone before buyers have even set foot inside the property.
Small improvements can also add thousands in value. One survey found that spending as little as £20 on solar lights might result in £500 added in perceived value; painting fences (£15–30) could net £1,000; mulch in borders (£10–25) could add £2,000; and simple cleaning like jet-washing or lawn mowing (up to £20) might yield £1,000 in value.
Conversely, over-personalised or poorly maintained garden features can deter buyers. Artificial grass, garish décor, oversized structures, or cluttered lawns may actually reduce value.
2. Low-maintenance design
A beautiful garden is appealing, but a high-maintenance one can be off-putting for buyers who may be time poor or less green-fingered but still want to enjoy their outdoor space. Think about easy-care planting, evergreen shrubs, and mulched borders. Adding features like decking and gravel can also create usable areas that don’t require constant upkeep.
3. Outdoor entertaining spaces
The trend for “outdoor living rooms” shows no sign of slowing down. A patio or deck with space for a dining set or lounge furniture adds lifestyle appeal and helps buyers picture themselves enjoying the garden. Even a small balcony can benefit from a café table and chair set.
4. Privacy and screening
Buyers want to feel like their garden is a retreat. Well-placed fencing, hedging, or trellis panels can add a sense of seclusion, which is often highly valued in busy, built-up areas.
5. Sheds and storage
Somewhere to tuck away bikes, tools, or outdoor furniture is a practical must-have. If you don’t have garage space, then a solid shed in good condition adds functional value without taking over the garden.
Other features that can add serious value include well-insulated conservatories or orangeries, garden offices or gyms, outdoor kitchens, patios, pergolas, and hot tubs.
6. Eco-friendly touches
With sustainability on everyone’s radar, features like a water butt, compost bin, or wildlife-friendly planting scheme can be an attractive bonus. While they may not directly add a huge amount to the sale price, they can tip the balance in your favour with eco-conscious buyers.
Working out how much value your garden adds
So how do you pin down the actual figure when it comes to the value that your garden can add?
There are a few ways:
Compare local properties: Look at recent sales of similar homes nearby, and compare gardens. A property with a landscaped garden will usually fetch more than one with a neglected or limited outdoor space.
Talk to estate agents:Local agents know what buyers in your area prioritise and can often estimate the value of specific garden features.
Consider your market: In city centres, even a small balcony or courtyard can make a big difference. In rural areas, large gardens are expected, but the quality of design and maintenance still impacts the value.
Balance cost vs. return: Spending £10,000 on a garden overhaul doesn’t automatically add the same amount to your property’s value. The key is to make improvements that enhance usability and appearance without overspending.
Remember, a garden is far more than just a patch of grass – it’s an extension of your living space. By making it attractive, practical, and easy to maintain, you can increase not only your property’s value but also its appeal to buyers. And while the exact figure will vary depending on where you live, investing in your garden is almost always money well spent.
If you’re anything like me, you can never resist a new plant – but sometimes the only pots we’ve got left are the teeny-tiny ones. Don’t be out off though: just because you’ve only got small plant pots doesn’t mean you can’t create a gorgeous little display. In fact, the right tiny plants for tiny pots can bring just as much impact as their bigger cousins, without taking up too much space.
Perfect for small spaces, shelves, desks, office space, or even miniature gardens and fairy gardens, these small indoor potted plants are a great way to add fresh greenery where you least expect it.
The trick is picking the best plants for very small pots – the ones that actually enjoy life in smaller pots and don’t sulk if they can’t spread their roots too far. That’s where this guide comes in!
Common challenges with small pots
Before we dive into the cute indoor plants themselves, let’s be real about the downsides of tiny pots. The most common issues with growing plants in small pots are:
Drying out quickly – with less soil, water evaporates faster, so tiny plants often need more frequent watering.
Root crowding – some house plants outgrow a mini pot in no time, so knowing when to repot is key.
Drainage problems – excess water has nowhere to go in smaller pots without drainage holes, and this can lead to root rot.
Lack of nutrients – less soil means plants can struggle to access nutrients, so you may need to use indoor plant food more often to keep them happy.
Stability – top-heavy small houseplants sometimes topple if the pot is too light.
That said, with the right conditions and a bit of proper care, plants in tiny pots can absolutely thrive.
The best indoor plants for tiny pots
Here’s my pick of the best plants for small pots. Whether you’re after succulent plants, tropical plants, or carnivorous plants, there’s something for everyone.
1. African Violet (Saintpaulia)
African Violets are classic indoor plants for small pots. Their fuzzy green leaves and small flowers in purple, pink, or white are just gorgeous. They love bright light but no direct sun. You need to keep the soil evenly damp for the best blooms.
2. Areca Palm (Dypsis lutescens)
A miniature version of this palm in a smaller pot is perfect for desks. With its elegant, feathery green leaves, this tropical plant prefers bright indirect light and high humidity.
3. Asparagus Fern (Asparagus setaceus)
Not a true fern, but with delicate, airy foliage. It loves partial shade and a little extra humidity. Keep the soil just moist and don’t let it dry out completely.
4. Baby Jade Plant (Crassula ovate)
A smaller version of the classic succulent plant, with thick green leaves. It likes well-drained soil, minimal watering, and bright light.
5. Baby Rubber Plant (Peperomia obtusifolia)
A cute little addition with glossy, rounded leaves. This perfect houseplant is tough and doesn’t need much water. Great for an office space as it tolerates indirect sunlight.
6. Baby’s Tears (Soleirolia soleirolii)
This cute houseplant produces a mat of tiny green leaves that spill beautifully over a mini pot. It’s perfect in a miniature indoor garden or as ground cover for larger plants. Keep in partial shade and moist soil.
7. Boston Fern ‘Mini Russells’ (Nephrolepis exaltata)
A smaller version of the classic fern, with arching fronds that look lush in a miniature plant pot. Loves high humidity, indirect sunlight, and evenly damp soil.
8. Bunny Ear Cactus (Opuntia microdasys)
A quirky succulent plant with flat pads that look like rabbit ears. Loves bright sun and well-drained soil. Minimal watering is key – too much leads to root rot.
9. Chinese Money Plant (Pilea peperomioides)
One of the most perfect plants for tiny pots. Round, coin-shaped leaves make this a favourite for plant lovers. Likes bright indirect light and drying out a little between waterings.
10. Donkey’s Tail (Sedum morganianum)
A trailing with bead-like leaves, perfect for shelves. Needs bright sun and good drainage.
11. Dwarf Aloe (Aloe vera)
A compact succulent that thrives in bright light with minimal care. A great gift for anyone new to indoor plants.
12. Dwarf Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina)
This elegant fern has soft, feathery foliage and enjoys partial shade and moist soil. A delicate but resilient miniature plant.
13. Echeveria
These popular rosette-forming succulents love bright sunlight. Keep the soil dry between waterings.
14. Ivy ‘Feenfinger’ (Hedera helix)
A compact ivy with slender, finger-like leaves. Ideal for trailing from smaller pots. Likes partial shade and moist soil.
15. Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus)
Strappy, grass-like leaves perfect for a miniature garden. Tolerates partial shade and well-drained soil.
16. Nephrolepis ‘Fluffy Ruffles’
A smaller, bushy fern that thrives in high humidity. Loves bright indirect light and makes a cute little addition to a desk.
17. Nerve Plant (Fittonia)
Fittonias have striking green leaves that are veined with pink or white. It prefers indirect sunlight and high humidity. A stunning addition to a miniature garden.
18. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)
Compact versions of this well-known plant are suited to smaller pots. Glossy green leaves and elegant white flowers. Prefers indirect sunlight and evenly moist soil.
19. Philodendron
There are lots of smaller versions of this classic house plant. Heart-shaped leaves, trailing growth, and tolerance for low light make it a great option.
20. Pilea Glauca
Tiny silvery leaves that trail gracefully. Perfect in miniature gardens. Needs bright indirect light and a little humidity.
21. Parlour Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
Slow-growing tropical plant that does brilliantly in low light. Great for limited space.
22. Polka Dot Plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya)
Bright splashes of pink, red, or white on the leaves. Loves bright indirect light. Pinch back tips to keep it compact in smaller pots.
23. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
Fast-growing, trailing, and very forgiving, Pothos is a perfect houseplant for beginners. Handles low light and minimal care.
24. Prayer Plant (Calathea)
Known for their bold patterned leaves, Calatheas love high humidity and indirect sunlight. A good option if you want striking tropical plants.
25. Purple Shamrock (Oxalis triangularis)
Beautiful purple leaves that fold at night. Also produces small flowers in pale pink. Likes bright indirect light.
26. Scotch Moss (Sagina subulata)
A soft, cushion-like mat of green that’s brilliant in fairy gardens. Needs moist soil and partial shade.
27. Snake Plant (Sansevieria)
Smaller cultivars of Sansevieria will thrive in tiny pots. The upright, sword-like leaves can tolerate bright light or low light, and minimal watering.
28. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii)
A trailing succulent with heart-shaped leaves. Needs bright indirect light and a dry spell between waterings.
29. String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus)
An iconic succulent plant with bead-like leaves. Best in bright light and well-drained soil. Avoid excess water.
30. String of Turtles (Peperomia prostrata)
Tiny round leaves patterned like turtle shells. Ideal for mini pots in bright indirect light.
31. Sweetheart Plant (Hoya Kerrii)
That heart-shaped leaf is the ultimate cute plant. Often sold as a single leaf in a mini pot. Needs bright indirect light and a light watering touch.
32. Tradescantia
Trailing house plant with stripy purple leaves. Loves bright indirect light. Pinch tips for a fuller look.
33. Venus Flytrap (Dionaea muscipula)
One of the most interesting plants you can grow in a tiny pot. A true carnivorous plant. Needs bright sunlight, moist soil, and distilled water only.
34. Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina)
Choose a smaller version for a mini pot. Glossy leaves, elegant growth. Likes bright indirect light.
35. Zebra Cactus (Haworthia)
A succulent with stripy, spiky leaves. Enjoys bright indirect light and needsv minimal care.
Care tips for indoor plants
So you’ve chosen your plants for tiny pots, and now you need to make sure they thrive! These care tips will help you keep them happy.
Choosing the right location: Depending on the plant, you may need a spot in bright indirect light, partial shade, or direct sun. Check out the care instructions on the plant label, or look them up online if there isn’t one.
Drainage: Always use a pot with drainage holes to avoid root rot. If that’s not possible, add a layer of gravel at the bottom of the pot.
Watering: Tiny pots dry quickly, so check the soil often. When you water, do it sparingly – excess water is the quickest way to kill mini plants.
Feeding: A plant food designed for indoor plants will keep miniature plants happy. Always use plant food according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cleaning leaves: Dust off large leaves with a damp cloth or soft brush.
Pest control: Keep an eye out for aphids, mealybugs, or spider mites. Catching them early makes life much easier.
Repotting: When your small plants outgrow their mini pots, move them to a larger pot with well-drained soil.
Useful tools for plants in tiny pots
You don’t need lots of kit to care for small indoor plants, but there are a few items that will make you a better plant parent:
Miniature hand trowel – makes planting and repotting so much easier.
Spray mister – essential for humidity-loving plants like ferns or fittonia.
Indoor watering can – with a slim spout to avoid splashes, and ideally a rose attachment for when you need to water gently.
Pruning snips – perfect for trimming back tiny plants or deadheading small flowers.
Support sticks and clips – keep taller plants upright in smaller planters.
Watering indicator – helps you avoid both drought and excess water.
Tiny pots don’t mean you’re limited to boring plant options – far from it. With the right plants for small pots, you can create a miniature garden on your windowsill, add cute plants to your office space, or even grow carnivorous plants like a Venus flytrap for fun. From succulent plants like string of pearls to leafy beauties like African violets, there’s a perfect plant for every corner.
So next time you come across a mini pot, don’t think of it as a limitation – think of it as an opportunity to try something new. These little plants pack in plenty of style, without taking up too much space.
Ahead this weekend: A lovingly lived-in house in Finland, checkered blankets, a newly opened garden in Philly, and some fungi Halloween inspiration for good measure. And if you’re considering pre-ordering our new book Gardenista: The Low-Impact Garden: From Oct. 1 through Oct. 13, our publisher is offering a 20 percent discount when you order via their […]
A high-yielding hybrid cultivar with an upright growth habit, ‘Tiger’ plants have large, thick, and slightly savoyed leaves with a green-blue hue.
Known for its satisfying flavor, ‘Tiger’ can be planted as a cut-and-come-again crop for repeat harvests, with leaves that mature in about 55 to 60 days.
Best suited to Hardiness Zones 3 to 12, this high-yielding heirloom collard cultivar produces dark green, shiny, and slightly crumpled leaves with yellow stems.
With a mounding habit, plants reach about 34 inches in height and they like to spread.
Ready to grow your own flavorful and nutritious leafy greens? Whatever the growing zone, with the proper care, collard greens are an annual edible that can flourish in your garden.
Seeds can be started indoors, or sown directly in the garden.
Plant several sets of seeds in succession or cut and come again for multiple collard harvests throughout the season, and plan for exposure to a light frost late in the season in cooler zones for the best flavor.
Before you know it, you’ll be sitting down to plates filled with homegrown collard wraps, savory sides, delectable soups, and canned goods made with this delectable and nutritious vegetable.
Which type will you add to the veggie patch this year? Do you have a favorite cultivar that wasn’t mentioned here? Feel free to drop us a line in the comments!
MOST OF US have something to hide—in our gardens, that is, some view of something we’d like to erase. It could be the telephone pole across the street that we can see from certain spots, or the neighbor’s driveway, or even something within our own property—the trash bins or who knows what.
Today’s guest, Basil Camu, has a suggestion: an inexpensive, quick-to-develop privacy screen started from a diverse mix of native saplings, sort of a hack of the concept of planting a pocket forest (above), which he’ll explain, too.
Leaf & Limb is a very different kind of tree service that doesn’t do tree takedowns and instead focuses on tree care through all phases of a tree’s life, and on innovative ways to use them in our landscapes to enhance biodiversity. Basil is also founder of a non-profit, Project Pando, which propagates and distributes some 10,000 native tree saplings annually from wild-collected seed, most going to nonprofits and ecological restoration efforts.
Read along as you listen to the Sept. 29, 2025 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
Margaret Roach: Well, this conversation is inspired by something that’s explored more deeply in your book “From Wasteland to Wonder,” and people can download a digital copy of your book; I believe it’s free of charge. For basically your cost, they can also order a physical copy.
But let’s just kind of get started on the basics that we can cram into our allotted time here [laughter]. It cracked me up that on your Leaf & Limb website, you have a page headlined, “Hedging Your Bets.” So maybe, yeah, maybe we should quickly sort of tell everyone what a pocket forest is. I think this idea of your version of a privacy screen is adapted from kind of a pocket forest world.
Basil: Right, exactly. It’s essentially the whole idea is planting lots of trees and shrubs, in the case of a pocket forest, or just shrubs, in the case of these privacy thickets. And the idea is you work with saplings. They’re very easy to plant, they’re very cheap. You can get excellent native diversity when you’re working with these young bare-root saplings, typically they’re going to be bare-root. You could do like quart size I suppose, or tubelings. Pinelands Nursery[wholesale] has tubelings, which I love. But the idea is just they’re small and they’re inexpensive, and you could plant 20, 30, 40 an hour.
So when you start comparing that against a normal planting approach; maybe I have a front yard, it’s 500 square feet. I could plant one large oak. Yes, I’d have that instant large tree in the front yard. But there’s all kinds of issues that come from that: root-bound plants and containers and establishment periods. We could talk a lot about that, but I’ll just skip it and say: or you could spend the same amount of money and time and plant a whole bunch of native trees and shrubs, and that’s more or less a pocket forest.
And from that, we’ve built out this privacy thicket idea, which is do the same thing, plant lots of little saplings, but limit them to shrubs, things that only grow maybe 20 feet.
Margaret: So things that can then be pruned as well, I assume. Yes?
Basil: Yeah. They have a lot of ability to be shaped and formed, and going full circle to where you opened, with the hedging your bets idea: This is sort of the foundation for how we got here. With privacy rows, we often find that they’re monocultures, meaning it’s just one species and it’s planted in a row. Often these species are not native. Sometimes they are, but anytime you’re planting with one kind of species in a row, if something happens to that species, maybe there’s a new pest in the area or it’s a droughty summer, and chances are all of the trees will be affected. Whereas if you plant a variety of species, then you can have some resilience built in. Maybe one species doesn’t make it, but if you’re using, I don’t know, 20 different shrub species, if one or two don’t make it, you still have plenty of backups.
Margaret: I think people who learned this, in a lot of our historic areas in the Southeast or Mid-Atlantic; I think this was a lesson learned the hard way with some historic boxwood hedging and so forth, right? Now there are these diseases, and oh my goodness, it can’t withstand them. And you’re losing not a little bit of the sort of architecture of your landscape, but all of it; it’s pretty drastic.
Basil: It is. And the call we get so frequently is, “Oh, my row of Arborvitae have died.” Or here we have a lot of Leyland cypress. So it’s a common thing with these privacy rows. So then you get to this next junction, which is, O.K., you’ve convinced me I want to use lots of species. Does that mean I’m going to have to spend a bunch more money on plants? And you could go that route. If you wanted to buy all large plants and go through all of that time, you could. But because we deal with real-world constraints, at Leaf & Limb, our clients never have more time or more money, we’ve had to find ways through that.
And using saplings is a really great way through that, because again, you don’t spend really more time or more money. You get the benefit having many different species. And then what we found, which is pretty remarkable, when you plant lots of these native saplings together, it is truly a rising tide lifts all boats situation. They just explode in growth.
And it makes sense. Plants growing together are supporting and helping and cooperating. All kinds of interesting research coming out about how mycorrhizal fungi facilitates nutrient transportation across species and plants taking care of each other. There’s a lot of cooperation happening within the world of plants, and nowhere is it more evident than watching one of these privacy thickets grow up.
Margaret: So when I’m doing this, how close am I planting and how deep a bed, so to speak? I mean, if I were making a hedge of some of the things you just mentioned, or the boxwood that I just mentioned, we kind of have an idea, because we know we could look up the ultimate width and so forth of that plant at maturity. What kind of a space should I allot, and how thick am I planting?
Basil: Great questions. General high-level overview of how this process works: Generally recommend at least 8 to 10 feet of width, and you can go as long as you want. So a classic depth by width might be, say 50 feet long by 8 feet wide.
Within that bed, we recommend laying down cardboard and a thick layer of arborist wood chips, plus some leaf compost, if you have it; you don’t have to have it. We recommend putting that down a month or two, maybe three, in advance so it can get nice and rotting and suppress all that vegetation and growing underneath. Then come back during the planting season and start putting the saplings in the ground.
We recommend spacing them out every 2 to 3 feet, and don’t plan it. It should be random. Yes, distribute different species evenly around. Let’s say you’re using, say, 10 different species, roughly distribute them so that they are spreading across the full length. But don’t try to perfectly plot where every sapling will go. There should be some randomness to it. It’s how nature works. I don’t think it hurts to plan it out, but I think randomness actually adds some resilience.
And then after you put those trees in the ground, we recommend marking them. We used to use landscape flags, now we’re actually using 4-foot orange-colored driveway markers. They’re more visible, more durable, and they can be reused time and time again. And the reason you want those is because you will need to know what you planted versus what you did not plant.
Margaret: [Laughter.] Oh boy, I know about that.
Basil: If you’re a seasoned plant expert, you don’t need those markers because you know what you did and didn’t plant. Most people are going to have a tough time discerning what they planted, versus the seeds that floated in on the sky and have started taking root. Using the markers makes it super-easy. Basically, if it’s not got a marker, pull it out.
Margaret: Right. Because here the squirrels and the blue jays would be planting acorns and stuff, and I’d have every other plant would be an oak-to-be [laughter].
Basil: Exactly. Yeah. So this takes the thinking out of it. It takes the plant ID out of it. For many people, plant ID is the big challenge, and especially (I know, you know this), the identification on a young plant versus a more mature plant, is quite challenging. So this just takes that whole bit out of it.
Now all you need to do is for the next two, maybe three growing seasons, make sure no other roots or invasive plant, excuse me, sorry, make sure no other trees or shrubs or invasive plants take hold in that space. And then after about two or three growing seasons, these privacy thickets are typically going to be in the range of 10 to 15 feet tall.
Margaret: Wow.
Basil: Yeah. It’s really fast. And they will close the sunlight down to the ground. Not much will be able to take root after that.
Margaret: I think of this in a way, a term that I used to use with a friend, Ken Druse. We wrote a book a million years ago; it was called “The Natural Habitat Garden”—like 30 years ago or something. And we use the term bio-hedge. And I think of these as the modern version of bio-hedge, and by that I just meant when I don’t make a hedge of one species, but I mix a lot of woody plants together and let them all—including vines in some cases, I used to also add vines, not just shrubs and trees—and let them kind of mingle and make edge habitat, mimicking edge habitat in nature. So I think of these as kind of like baby bio-hedges sprouting out from saplings.
Basil: Yeah. And that edge habitat is so important. When you go down the list of disappearing ecosystems, you see all the usual suspects. I mean, you could just name it basically, but one of the ones that just doesn’t make the headlines as much as are thickets in general. It’s really crucial space between field and forest where lots of birds and insects are overwintering or they’re laying young. It’s an important ecosystem.
And I got to say on that note, my favorite part about these spaces that we’re describing is you can see all of the bird life. With trees, often that bird life is so high you can’t see it as well. But these are short enough that you get a really great view on all the birds and insects that are enjoying the space, and it’s just remarkable.
Margaret: Are there some favorite plants that you’ve been using? And I mean, I know you’re in Raleigh and your clients are in that general vicinity and so forth, and people would have to adapt ideas with parallel species for their region,. But are there some plants that you’ve been especially thrilled with their performance in these bio-hedges? I mean these…here I’m calling them bio-hedges already [laughter].
Basil: No, that’s great. Yeah, we have a lot of go-tos. I think some of the ones you’d expect to do really well and usually do American beautyberry. Buttonbush does well, silky dogwood and spicebush, ninebark [above]. We love some of the Aronia, and there’s a few others. Possumhaw does pretty well here. I don’t know if you’d have that where you are.
Margaret: Do you know what the genus of possumhaw is?
Basil: Yeah, possumhaw is Viburnum nudum.
Margaret: Ah, O.K. Sure.
Basil: Yes, yes. Sorry, I’m using common names over-
Margaret: No, no, it’s fine. It didn’t ring a bell with me right away. So good. Oh, yeah, yeah, sure.
Basil: Alder does really well, Alnus serrulata, I believe. Those are some of the ones that come to mind as just doing really well. Some do too well; we found that elderberry is almost just too much. We don’t use that anymore.
Margaret: Yeah. [Laughter.] I love to have it; I think it’s a must on the property if you’re into birds and insects and it’s a wonder, a wonderful plant, the native elderberry. It’s just I think you have to give it its own big area to romp in because it’s kind of a thug, a little bit of a thug. But boy, when it comes into flower, you could stand under that and just listen to the sounds of so many creatures buzzing in there and being happy. And it’s a great plant.
Basil: It’s amazing. I do love the plant. It’s just a bit aggressive.
Margaret: Yeah.
Basil: I’ll add two more layers to this that are worth noting. One, maintenance requirements are virtually nil. You can do pruning if you want to, and because there’s so many plants, you can be as rough as you want. If you want to just push it back and make a straight line; shouldn’t be a problem. I am a little more selective in my pruning. I like to keep natural form and I let it spread a little bit, but it’s very malleable. Maintenance requirements are quite low. You don’t even have to prune.
One other layer I want to add is that most of your listeners are experts in many of these topics, but what I think one of the valuable parts of this system is it’s a great way to get people into this work who don’t care about native plants. We have found that we might get a call from a prospective client and they’re like, “Hey, I want a row of Arborvitae,” and it’s a great entry point to, “Oh, well, what if you could choose something else that has more resilience and isn’t going to cost anymore?” And they’re like, “Yeah, it sounds great.” And then next thing, they’ve got this hedge of native plants bursting with birds and pollinators, and they’re getting pulled into this world of native plants. So it’s kind of a good Trojan horse, I think, for people who are not into this kind of stuff.
Margaret: You mentioned the saplings, and you mentioned one nursery at one point earlier. Are these saplings becoming easier to find than they may be once were, because obviously a lot of nurseries like to sell a larger plant. So where does one go shopping for this or whatever? Are mail-order nurseries doing this? [Above, saplings being grown at Leaf & Limb’s Project Pando.]
Basil: There are increasingly more, so most states will have a program through the state forest service that will offer these. Those are fantastic. I do really love Pinelands Nursery. They grow native plants and their prices are reasonable. They’re tubelings. If they don’t have the native plant you want, you can actually send them seeds, they’ll grow the plants for you at the same price. [Note: If you use a landscape contractor, they can order for you from Pinelands, which sells only wholesale.]
Margaret: Oh my goodness.
Basil: Yeah, they’re great. And then locally here in North Carolina, we have some fantastic options. I’m not going to list them, mainly because I don’t think they’d be relevant to many of your listeners, but I do think meta level, we are seeing a rise in native plant availability and more so at the sapling level than at the containerized and B-and-B level. That’s been my anecdotal observations.
Margaret: And one thing I always throw in on this subject of sourcing is that connecting to your native plant society, which most of the state native plant society websites have a resource or source kind of tab in their navigation. So finding your Maryland or your Connecticut or your whatever native plant society, and I can give a link on how to find your state one, a lot of them do have information on plant sales and plant nurseries in that state for that state’s plants.
Basil: Yeah, that’s a great point. Also, local garden clubs.
Margaret: Exactly. Plant sales and swaps and all kinds of things.
Basil: University extensions agents will often have some good recommendations. And don’t forget Reddit. Reddit’s got a really big, growing community of native enthusiasts.
Margaret:[Laughter.] I didn’t know that. I didn’t know that.
Basil: Yeah, there’s a huge subreddit. It’s the native plant subreddit. I don’t know offhand, I want to say about 150,000 users in that. So yeah, lots of stuff online, and I think you’re right, native plant societies are probably one of the best places to start.
Margaret: Do you tend to, when you try to pick your palette of plants, going back to some of the ones that you recommend, do always put 10 different kinds or whatever? Or do you sometimes just do three or five? Tell us a little bit more about that.
Because for instance, I love birds and I love fruiting plants, and I have a lot of big, big, big, big groups of winterberry hollies and Aronia and things like that, and different viburnums. Have you ever done ones that just really feature the flowers followed by the fruit kind of thing? Have you ever done any that are more thematic, so to speak?
Basil: Yes, definitely. Our themes are usually sort of more in ecological function terms. Maybe a client needs just fast-growing for maximum hill stabilization or something.
The short answer is, this is like making a salad. There’s no right or wrong way to do it. It may be a better salad or a worse salad, but it’s probably still going to be a salad [laughter]. That’s the broad version. I also know a lot of people don’t like broad answers like that, so I’ll give you a different answer, which is if you wanted to get particular, I think you should aim for more than say 10 or 15 species to get that resilience.
I don’t think it has to be, but I personally, I actually prefer over 20, but we’re a little bit unique here in that we are able to grow our own. We use air-pruning beds and we collect our own seeds. This is in addition to the nonprofit, which does the same, but for our internal purposes, we also do this. So we are able to grow almost whatever we want. It’s very fortunate. I think most people are a little bit, they’re going to be at the mercy of the nursery’s availability. So don’t let great be the enemy of good. If you can only get five native species, fine, it’s better than one.
Margaret: What if you want, even in winter, for there to be some coverage? Are there any evergreen components that you’ve found useful?
Basil: Yeah, inevitably, I think, I don’t know if this is true across the U.S., but here where I live, the cross between native and evergreen is really limited.
We only have a couple wax myrtles and I don’t know Carolina cherry laurel. There aren’t many, but it turns out that people think they need the evergreen. But what we have found both anecdotally and in the research is that it’s more psychological than actual physical. Just simply having the barrier there makes you feel as if you have your privacy. So that’s one part of the answer.
The other part of my answer is that as these systems grow, they get very tangled and dense. So there is an actual component of physical privacy there as well, whether or not you have evergreen plants,
Margaret: It’s almost like a living fence then even in the offseason, isn’t it?
Basil: Yeah, exactly.
Margaret: The woody tangle.
Basil: Yeah. What would we have observed and heard from our clients is can you see through it? If you try, yes, but does it matter? No, it’s the same sense of privacy and enclosure.
Margaret: So I don’t necessarily have to have an evergreen component.
Basil: Once it’s grown, you don’t have to. We do if we can, but I don’t know. We just don’t have many options.
Margaret: No, and that is when you get to the natives versus the non-natives where there are more ornamental, non-native choices that way. But yeah, you’re right.
The blueberries: What about blueberries? I don’t know if you mentioned them. Do you ever use them? They’re not as tall as some of the other things you mentioned, even when they’re at their maximum.
Basil: Yeah, I totally forgot about the food category. We love adding food if a client is interested, because not only is it fun to be able to have food, but then you can share it with your neighbors. So native plums, blueberries, we’ll absolutely interweave some edible plants if that’s within the scope of the project.
Margaret: I don’t think I’ve ever harvested a single blueberry that’s made its way into my mouth because I have so many competitors out there on the wing and on four legs with fur who get them all. I’ve got blueberries all over the place here, but they were planted as wildlife plants, do you know what I mean? They were planted for their biodiversity element, not for me to eat [laughter].
Basil: I have not, I’ve never been able to harvest from my bushes, either, quite frankly. But we do get plums. Plums are a little more abundant. So those have been really great.
Margaret: What about fall color? Is that another thing that you ever take into consideration?
Basil: Yeah, sometimes. Again, it’s going to depend a little bit on objectives, but if we’re going to do fall color, yeah, then we’re going to start thinking about sumac is just one of our favorites for that; ninebark. There’s just some fun species you can play with. This is the beauty of this system. You can make it really basic and simple. You can also, if you’re a designer, you can just go to town. There’s all kinds of amazing objectives you could satisfy.
Margaret: In the book, I know you go into more depth about this subject as well as many other subjects, in the book “From Wasteland to Wonder” that people can either download or to order a copy at your cost. So what more depth about this subject do you go into in that, that we’ll learn about if we order or download a copy?
Basil: Well, it does have the full planting specifications, a lot more detail about when and where and how to do things. So I think today we’ve hit the high level, but if you want to just get into the nitty-gritty, the book will give that.
It also does have some aspirational ideas, like for those who are so inclined, and I bet a lot of listeners would be, you can grow your own species and it’s really fun, and then that gives you a lot of steering power over what you plant. That’s also in the book, and like you said, the book is free download or if you’d like the hard copy, which is meant to be used in the garden, it’s just cost of print.
And just so users and listeners know sort of the intention behind the book, it’s meant to rethink how we do tree care and land care in a way that’s more in tune with natural systems to help heal Earth, and then ultimately to save time and money, because these systems generally save time and money.
Margaret: Yes, and I’ll give a link also to some of our previous conversations, including one about respecting and nurturing trees through all the phases of their life, as I mentioned briefly in the introduction: not taking down our dead and dying trees—except in areas where there’s danger that they pose, but to let them continue to serve their very important role as they decline and so forth in the ecosystem. So I’ll give a link to that conversation as well. I think that’s another key part of something you and I both believe in so strongly.
Basil: Absolutely.
Margaret: Well, Basil, I’m sure you have to go out and prune something [laughter] or climb something or I don’t know what I mean, you must be…it’s that time of year, right? Busy time.
Basil: It’s the busy time, but it’s always a privilege and an honor to be here, so thank you for having me.
Margaret: Well, you’re very sweet. I’ll talk to you again soon, I hope. Thank you.
past conversations with basil camu
prefer the podcast version of the show?
MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 16th year in March 2025. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Sept. 29, 2025 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
You get a tulip, you get a hyacinth, you get a crocus! Yes, folks, fall bulb planting season is upon us. It’s singlehandedly one of the best things you can do this time of year for your future self. Plant fall bulbs now, and they’ll be one of the first blooms to welcome you next spring.
While others may be mourning the loss of summer, I’m over here buzzing about it being fall bulb season. Come September, the displays are full of tons of brilliant bulbs you can plant now for the spring.
One minute I’m shopping for garlic, the next thing you know, I’m leaving with $100 worth of flower bulbs to plant that weekend.
Fall bulbs and spring flowering bulbs are the same thing. One refers to when you plant it, and the other to when they flower.
It can be hard to think about next season’s garden when you’re still enjoying the last of this year’s harvest and blooms, but just a little work now will bring you so much joy next winter.
I’ve got plenty to say about fall bulbs, so let me dive in with all my planting tips. And make sure you read to the end for a can’t miss fall bulb giveaway!
Sponsored Content: A huge thank you to Flowerbulb.eu for sponsoring this post and providing many beautiful photos. Flowerbulb.eu is an invaluable resource for planting fall bulbs and has information on all kinds of unique bulbs you can grow for this spring. Be sure to check them out for more information and tips on growing everything bulbs.
Fall bulbs can create an epic display in the spring. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
What is a Flower Bulb?
We refer to most as “bulbs,” but some are also corms and tubers. For instance, crocus grow from corms while summer favourites like dahlias and begonias grow from tubers. Their appearance varies slightly, but for the sake of the article, I’ll refer to everything as a bulb! The care is fairly similar for each.
Bulbs are special in that they hold all the food the flower needs to thrive. If you’ve ever seen a package with bulbs already sprouting, that’s why,
Some bulbs are designed for annual planting, others for perennial or naturalizing. Annuals often are bred to be very showy, either in size or colour. Because of how much work it takes for the bulb to produce such a flower, it often won’t bloom again.
Perennials are bred for multiple-year flowering. They can remain in the ground all year round, becoming part of your garden bed plantings.
Naturalized bulbs are meant to multiply and spread. They can work in mass on their own or be part of a bed with other plants. They also work wonderfully in lawns.
Tulip bulbs are a “true bulb”
When Should I Plant Fall Bulbs?
When you should plant fall bulbs will vary greatly depending on where you live. They must be planted in the fall and before the first hard frost. This gives the bulb a chance to develop some root systems and settle in before winter.
This can be anywhere from September to December, depending on your climate. When in doubt, the package will tell you everything you need to know about when and how to plant the particular bulb.
Ideally, you want to plant them shortly after bringing them home. Most online retailers won’t ship the bulbs to you until they’re ready to plant in your hardiness zone. In the store, they’ll have them a little earlier. You can store them for a little while if necessary, keeping the bulbs between 10°-15°C.
For individual plantings, I use an auger drill attachment to help speed things up.
How to Plant Fall Bulbs
Again, the instructions will vary depending on the bulb you’re growing. Each bulb should be planted at different depths, and the sun and water conditions may vary slightly. My instructions below are a good rule of thumb for all bulbs, corms, and tubers.
Good drainage is a universal rule to follow. Bulbs will rot if sitting in any kind of water, so avoid any wet sections in your garden.
Most bulbs thrive in full or partial sun. Since these bulbs bloom in spring, they might enjoy more sunlight than you may think because the trees and shrubs haven’t leafed out yet.
When planting, you can plant them individually or in mass by digging trenches. Typically, smaller plants, like crocus, do well in mass while larger bulbs, such as alliums, work best with individual plantings. I like to work in compost to help improve drainage.
Generally, larger bulbs (2+ inches across) should be planted 6-8 inches deep, and smaller bulbs (1 inch or less) are planted 3-4 inches deep. Depth can change depending on your climate. For our mild winters, that depth is plenty in my garden. It’s best to refer to the package for the exact planting range. Warmer climates can handle the shallowest depth, where colder climates will want to use the maximum of the range.
Plant the bulbs with the pointy side facing up. Place, don’t push the bulb in. Cover with soil and then water generously if the soil isn’t already wet or you’re planting in dry conditions. Add a layer of mulch to help insulate the soil and stop it from drying out.
Bulbs should be planted “pointy” side up. These bulbs need to be set correctly before covering with soil.
Caring for Fall Bulbs
Once they’ve been planted, there’s very little work that needs to go into caring for your fall bulbs. They’ll be fine in the winter, sheltered under the cover of snow until they’re ready to emerge in the spring.
Many bulbs will actually naturalize or be perennials in the garden, returning year after year to bring you spring joy. Some bulbs, such as tulips and hyacinths, will bloom abundantly in their first couple of years and slowly taper off.
In the spring, you can snip faded flowers, but it’s important you leave the foliage until it turns completely yellow. The bulbs need time to charge and gather nutrients through the foliage to return the following year.
Crocus blooming amongst sedum.
Planting Bulbs in Pots
Yes, fall bulbs can also be planted in pots! This is a great option for those with a small space or who want to decorate their patio or balcony. I make a container every fall for my front door, and it’s always such a delight come springtime.
For successful bulb containers, you have to make sure the pot is deep enough and has good drainage. Use fresh soil when planting.
You can see exactly how I layer my bulbs, including tulips, daffodils, and crocus. The top layer will bloom first while the ones below make their way up the soil.
In containers, you can pack the bulbs closer than you would in a garden bed. I also like to top mine off with fall annuals, so it looks good in the fall while the bulbs are resting.
You may need to water your containers periodically, especially if they’re under protection from the outside.
Here’s a sample of combining bulbs in containers. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
Fall Bulb Grow Guides
I’ve written extensively about fall bulbs, including these dedicated guides for some of the most popular bulbs. Check them out for specific growing tips and tricks!
Tulips
Did you know that some tulips are perennials while others are annuals? You want to ensure you know which ones you’re buying to curb your expectations. I recently had the joy of planting over 250 tulip bulbs to grow as cutting flowers. Read these tips for growing tulips for a cutting garden.
Due to their popularity, there is an incredible variety of shapes and colours for tulip flowers.
Daffodils
Confession: I used to dislike daffodils. The bright yellow heads were always a little too much for me. But then I learned about the sheer number of daffodil varieties, and how versatile they can be.
Narcissus ‘Kiwi-Sunset.’ Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
Alliums
Alliums have long been one of my spring favourites, particularly the giant balls known as Globmaster alliums. As part of the onion family, you can truly grow some wacky and wonderful alliums.
A. giganteum ‘Globemaster.’ Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
Crocus
The true herald of spring is not the robin, but the crocus flowers. I often see these flowers blooming even when there is snow or frost still on the ground. They’re great for mass plantings in garden beds and are a go-to for bulb lawns and naturalizing.
Everyone knows tulips and daffodils, but not everyone is as familiar with other fun fall bulbs, such as the checkered lily or Dutch iris. Here are 12 extraordinary fall bulbs to consider planting.
Checkered Lily (Fritillaria meleagris). Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
Naturalizing Bulbs
Naturalizing is a gardener’s dream. This is when the bulbs produce more bulbs on their own, naturally multiplying their numbers each subsequent year. I’ve done tons of work naturalizing bulbs in my front lawn. You can find all mytips for naturalizing garden beds and lawns here!
A mix of crocus and short tulips for naturalizing. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Fall Bulb FAQ
Can I plant flower bulbs among trees, shrubs, and perennials?
Yes, and it’s a great way to bring some beauty before the perennials leaf out and everything else isn’t blooming yet. It can be difficult to plant in these areas as the soil is hard and there are root systems to navigate. You’re more likely to individually plant them. An auger drill attachment can help, though you should make the hole as small as possible.
Squirrels and other small mammals are attracted to the fresh soil after you’ve planted a bulb. You want to try to cover up any indication of fresh soil. Mulch can help hide this.
You also want to remove anything that may be attracting them to the area, such as garbage, compost, or bird feeders.
If you’re really concerned, you can place a hard wire over the top of the bulbs.
Personally, I plant with the knowledge that some of my bulbs may be dug up. It seems only fair they get a few bulbs too!
Is it better to plant flower bulbs earlier or later in the fall?
Earlier is usually better, but it depends on your climate. The planting should be done before the hard frost to allow the bulb to establish a root system. However, if you’re experiencing a warm fall, you may want to wait later to avoid hot conditions.
Should I fertilize flower bulbs?
I don’t fertilize much in my garden, as I work hard to feed my soil by adding layers of compost and leaf mulch every year. Only if you have poor soil conditions, you may want to fertilize. This is especially helpful if you have perennial bulbs and want them to bloom prolifically the following year. Fertilize after the bulbs have finished flowering in the spring.
Fall Bulb Giveaway!
I’m thrilled to partner with Flowerbulb.eu to give $100 worth of fall bulbs to one lucky Garden Therapy reader.
To enter, leave a comment on this post letting me know what fall bulbs you want to plant in your garden this year.
Contest is open to U.S. residents only and runs until October 3, 11:59 PM. The winner will be chosen using a random number generator. Good luck!!
That rounds up all of my fall bulb tips and guides! If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below or check out Flowerbulb.eu for more helpful information about planting bulbs.
More Fall Bulb Planting Tips
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Bulbs of all kinds are easy-care solutions for bringing extra color and an element of surprise to containers, beds, and even lawns. In this episode, Danielle and Carol are joined by bulb aficionado Joseph Tychonievich to discuss the most exciting varieties that they’ll be adding to their shopping carts this fall and winter.
Expert: Joseph Tychonievich is an independent plant breeder and author who lives and gardens in South Bend, Indiana. Check out more of his bulb recommendations in his Spring Bulb Buying Guide in the Fall 2025 issue!
Danielle’s Bulb Picks
‘Dickcissel’ daffodil (Narcissusjonquilla ‘Dickcissel’, Zones 4-9)
‘Sweet Lady’ Greg’s tulip (Tulipa greigii ‘Sweet Lady’, Zones 3-8)
‘Pagoda’ trout lily (Erythronium ‘Pagoda’, Zones 4-9)
‘Rubra Maxima’ crown imperial. Photo by Stephanie Fagan‘Ruby Giant’ crocus. Photo by Joseph TychonievichGiant snowdrop. Photo courtesy of Joseph Tychonievich‘Pagoda’ trout lily. Photo by Jennifer Benner
Expert Joseph Tychonievich’s Bulb Picks
Bieberstein’s crocus (Crocus speciosus, Zones 3-8)
‘Bright Gem’ tulip (Tulipa batalinii, Zones 3-8)
‘Chiquitita’ daffodil (Narcissus ‘Chiquitita’, Zones 3-8)
All photos from the contributors unless noted otherwise.
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A.M. Leonard Deluxe Soil Knife & Leather Sheath Combo
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MULTITASKING DUAL EDGES: a deep serrated edge and a tapered slicing edge ideal for tough or delicate cuts. DURABLE 6-inch stainless steel blade withstands 300 lbs of pressure. TWINE CUTTING NOTCH, DEPTH GAUGE MARKINGS & spear point – no need to switch tools when using this garden knife. LEATHER SHEATH: heavy duty, protective, clip on sheath to keep your knife convenient and secure. LIFETIME WARRANTY.
Berry & Bird Rabbiting Spade, Trenching Shovel
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Ideal Tool for All Gardeners Use: Our heavy duty trenching shovel is designed by a professional gardening tool designer. Lifetime Durability: This heavy duty drain spade is made of high-quality stainless steel, it is very strong and durable, even if it is used for high-strength work, it will not bend. Ergonomic Wood Handle: The handle of this planting spade is made of ash hardwood harvested from FSC-certified forests and has an ergonomically streamlined design, making it very suitable for everyone’s hands. Multi-Use: This digging shovel is generally used for digging trenches, digging holes, transplanting, edging, moving compost, cutting thick turf and furrowing. The sharp blade allows you to cut, scoop, dig, lift and dice in hard soil.
When Donald and Charlotte Molesworth first arrived at their small Kent cottage more than three decades ago, there was a derelict house and an almost totally blank canvas. The plot had once been the kitchen garden of an estate that belonged to “Cherry” Ingram, the great Victorian plant hunter. It may have looked like a wasteland, but it was one with fertile soil that had been improved over centuries.
What the couple have created since then is nothing short of extraordinary: a flourishing garden that centers around Charlotte’s awe-inspiring topiary and a cluster of small buildings (including a holiday cottage to rent) in the beautiful Kent landscape. On a rainy day we joined Charlotte for a tour of Balmoral Cottage:
Above: The house and garden is almost entirely hidden from view, which makes the magical entrance under an arch of hornbeam and down a path of ball-topped boxwood, even more tantalizing.
Balmoral Cottage is down an unmade track and tucked away behind St George’s church in the picture-postcard village of Benenden. Charlotte insists there was no masterplan when they began the garden. They requested yew seedlings as their wedding gifts and they planted them all before transplanting them at a later date.
Above: All the boxwood in the garden (and there are many varieties) was also grown from seedlings, many collected on Charlotte’s travels.
Charlotte’s horticultural talent is in her blood. Her father was a farmer on the nearby North Downs and her mother was a plantswoman who grew and sold primulas and had a love of yew. It was her aunt, another talented gardener, who first planted the seed, of training topiary. Charlotte’s skills and her garden have grown organically.
Above: Charlotte’s advice for those starting a garden is to think vertically: “When you start a garden, I think it’s the one thing that you often don’t think about, yet it’s this structure that is so valuable in the garden.”
Almost everything here has been grown, recycled, or rescued (“We are great scavengers,” admits Charlotte). The greenhouses have been built using unwanted materials destined for the scrap heap; the polytunnels were rescued. Even some of the garden’s most beautiful trees (including some stunning Malus Huphensis) were picked up as tiny seedlings on walks through the next-door estate many years ago. The large Pinus radiata and Scot’s pine that edge the garden also contribute to a wonderful borrowed landscape.
Above: The central walk of the garden is lined with box and towering topiary which leads down to a large pond. While the couple share gardening duties, Charlotte admits that she can be quite possessive over her hedging and topiary.
She’s very picky about plant hygiene as her garden is currently untouched by the ravages of box blight. She uses an organic treatment of effective microorganisms to keep the plants healthy and she is fanatical when pruning, sterilizing tools as she trims with a bleach solution. When she works on other people’s gardens, she will not only sterilize all her tools when she gets home, she will also wash all her clothes and take a shower, to ensure that no disease or harmful blight spores can travel with her.
As promised, we’re back in Broomall, Pennsylvnia today to see more of Dot Lenahan’s fun and fabulous garden in its fourth growing season. If you missed the first half of this update yesterday, be sure to check that out here: Part 1. If you’re ready to see more of her bright blooms and whimsical garden art, scroll on for her second batch of gorgeous garden photos.
Hello from Broomall, PA. The garden has been blooming thanks to rain and deadheading (not to mention weeding!). This is the first year I have had so many hummingbirds; usually they are more territorial. My morning coffee has been made even more enjoyable as they buzz around me as I smell the reblooming roses and honeysuckle. I am starting perennial and biennial seeds and hope to be able to transplant into the garden in late fall. An update will follow in the future. Happy gardening. Dot Lenahan
First up is the small mulched path that leads to Dot’s “fairy garden room.” A black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta, Zones 3–7) spills onto the path while whimsical sculptures and trinkets invite you in for a closer look, and a basin of water in a cool and protected spot is perfect for birds—and fairies—to take a relaxing dip.
On the opposite side, a bi-colored rudbeckia allows for some repetition and consistency in this section of the garden.
As I mentioned yesterday, Dot’s garden is a vast collection of diverse blooms that she is able to mix and match to create incredible color and shape combinations. This deep red zinnia with a profusion of petals stands in stark contrast to the light peachy-pink Bathsheba roses (Rosa ‘Bathsheba’, Zones 5–11).
Dot’s designs are an enchanting concoction of colors and textures. Lush foliage and pops of bright blooms have already developed into a rich tapestry, even though the garden still as plenty of growing to do.
Dot has an amazing collection of roses that lend to her fairy garden design. This creamy orange-yellow Moonlight Romantica® rose (Rosa ‘Meikaquinz’, Zones 5–9) stretches up toward the sun on tall stems, making it a great option for a cutting garden.
Even the seemingly mundane garden activities, like starting seeds, Dot is able to turn into opportunities for more interest. A bare are in the garden is the perfect spot for a table covered in a range of pots. A gingham tablecloth adds extra style and color, while blocks under the table legs prevent the wood from rotting quickly in wet soil.
Lastly, yet another striking flower combination, the bell-shaped blooms of Princess Diana clematis (Clematis texensis ‘Princess Diana’ Zones 4–8) is a sweet accent to some gorgeous butter-yellow roses.
Thank you so much for sharing your gorgeous garden with us again, Dot! We’re endlessly impressed with the decadent landscape you’ve created in less than five years. I hope we continue to receive updates as your garden grows and matures.
If you have a newer garden, like Dot, or have been tending your landscape for decades, we would love to see your designs on Garden Photo of the Day! As you venture outside this weekend to enjoy late season blooms or work on fall chores, I hope you take some photos to share with the blog. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.
We want to see YOUR garden!
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here
Fine Gardening Recommended Products
Lee Valley Garden Obelisks
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Sturdy yet lightweight, these obelisks provide ample support for climbing plants while being easy to install and move. The medium obelisk stands 68 1/2″ high overall with a diameter of about 9 1/2″, compact enough for smaller containers indoors or out. The large size stands 86 1/2″ high with a diameter of 15 3/4″, ideal for larger outdoor spaces and containers.
Dramm 17050 50′ ColorStorm 1/2″ Standard Soaker Hose
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– Provides sufficient amounts of water to the garden without the hassle of hand watering
– Conveniently waters garden and beds
– 50 ft. by 1/2 inch diameter made from recycled material; lifetime guarantee
– Made in the USA
SHOWA Atlas 370B Nitrile Palm Coating Gloves, Black, Medium (Pack of 12 Pairs)
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Lightweight and close-fitting for excellent dexterity. Machine washable. Breathable back of hand to reduce perspiration. Designed for easy movement and continuous wear. Ideal for aerospace, assembly, automotive, construction, final fix, gardening, manufacturing, operating machinery, packaging, precision handling, tiling, warehousing.
As promised, we’re back in Broomall, Pennsylvnia today to see more of Dot Lenahan’s fun and fabulous garden in its fourth growing season. If you missed the first half of this update yesterday, be sure to check that out here: Part 1. If you’re ready to see more of her bright blooms and whimsical garden art, scroll on for her second batch of gorgeous garden photos.
Hello from Broomall, PA. The garden has been blooming thanks to rain and deadheading (not to mention weeding!). This is the first year I have had so many hummingbirds; usually they are more territorial. My morning coffee has been made even more enjoyable as they buzz around me as I smell the reblooming roses and honeysuckle. I am starting perennial and biennial seeds and hope to be able to transplant into the garden in late fall. An update will follow in the future. Happy gardening. Dot Lenahan
First up is the small mulched path that leads to Dot’s “fairy garden room.” A black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta, Zones 3–7) spills onto the path while whimsical sculptures and trinkets invite you in for a closer look, and a basin of water in a cool and protected spot is perfect for birds—and fairies—to take a relaxing dip.
On the opposite side, a bi-colored rudbeckia allows for some repetition and consistency in this section of the garden.
As I mentioned yesterday, Dot’s garden is a vast collection of diverse blooms that she is able to mix and match to create incredible color and shape combinations. This deep red zinnia with a profusion of petals stands in stark contrast to the light peachy-pink Bathsheba roses (Rosa ‘Bathsheba’, Zones 5–11).
Dot’s designs are an enchanting concoction of colors and textures. Lush foliage and pops of bright blooms have already developed into a rich tapestry, even though the garden still as plenty of growing to do.
Dot has an amazing collection of roses that lend to her fairy garden design. This creamy orange-yellow Moonlight Romantica® rose (Rosa ‘Meikaquinz’, Zones 5–9) stretches up toward the sun on tall stems, making it a great option for a cutting garden.
Even the seemingly mundane garden activities, like starting seeds, Dot is able to turn into opportunities for more interest. A bare are in the garden is the perfect spot for a table covered in a range of pots. A gingham tablecloth adds extra style and color, while blocks under the table legs prevent the wood from rotting quickly in wet soil.
Lastly, yet another striking flower combination, the bell-shaped blooms of Princess Diana clematis (Clematis texensis ‘Princess Diana’ Zones 4–8) is a sweet accent to some gorgeous butter-yellow roses.
Thank you so much for sharing your gorgeous garden with us again, Dot! We’re endlessly impressed with the decadent landscape you’ve created in less than five years. I hope we continue to receive updates as your garden grows and matures.
If you have a newer garden, like Dot, or have been tending your landscape for decades, we would love to see your designs on Garden Photo of the Day! As you venture outside this weekend to enjoy late season blooms or work on fall chores, I hope you take some photos to share with the blog. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.
We want to see YOUR garden!
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here
Fine Gardening Recommended Products
Gardener’s Log Book from NYBG
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
This weatherproof five-year log book includes the following features:
· Sturdy waterproof cover to protect pages from rain and muddy soil
· Lined pages and gridded paper for plotting beds
· Five years of 12-month bloom and harvest grids for recording what you planted and when
· Authoritative appendices on composting, pruning, pest and disease control, and container gardening
· Useful reminders by season on fertilizing, mulching, and transplanting
· Space for listing your favorite sources and suppliers.
Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes
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Featuring gorgeous photography and advice for landscapers, Planting in a Post-Wild World by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is dedicated to the idea of a new nature—a hybrid of both the wild and the cultivated—that can nourish in our cities and suburbs.
Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs
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Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers “the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens.
Your poor plants have been suffering in silence. Every snip with those dull pruners is like performing surgery with a butter knife!
But don’t worry. I discovered a gardening secret that is both simple and effective, transforming my entire plant care routine.
And the best part? The miracle tool is sitting in your kitchen drawer right now.
Why Your Plants Are Secretly Hating Your Dull Pruners
Let’s get real – those crushed, mangled stems after pruning aren’t just ugly. They’re plant INJURIES. Shocking fact: plants pruned with dull blades take up to 50% longer to heal and are twice as likely to develop infections!
When you cut with sharp pruners, you’re creating clean wounds that heal quickly and seamlessly. But dull blades? They’re the equivalent of using a sledgehammer for thumbtacks.
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They crush plant tissues, create jagged tears, and basically roll out the welcome mat for diseases and pests.
The difference between amateur and pro plant parents is simply having tools that actually work. Your wrists will thank you, too. Sharp pruners require 60% less force to make the same cuts!
The Kitchen Drawer Miracle Your Plants Need
Forget what you’ve heard about expensive sharpening stones or replacement blades. My nana, the plant whisperer of her generation, passed down a secret that will make professional gardeners gasp.
The game-changer for your pruners isn’t what you think… It’s aluminum foil. Yes, ALUMINUM FOIL!
I was shocked to discover that this everyday kitchen item works like a gentle abrasive, perfectly honing pruner blades. Think of it as microdermabrasion for your garden tools. It polishes away imperfections without damaging the blade itself.
Nana’s 5-Minute Pruner Revival Method
Ready to transform those sad, struggling pruners into plant-pampering precision tools? Follow these stupidly simple steps:
Grab a strip of aluminum foil about 12 inches long
Fold it multiple times until you have a thick, multi-layered strip
Open your pruners and position the foil between the blades
Cut through the foil 10-15 times using a normal cutting motion
Test the sharpness on a piece of paper – it should slice cleanly
That’s it! No special skills required. The aluminum foil’s unique texture does all the work for you, gradually honing the blade with each cut. It’s like magic, but it’s actually science!
The Rookie Mistakes That Ruin Perfect Pruners
Your newly-sharpened pruners deserve better than these common blunders. Most people make these mistakes with their pruners, turning a 10-year tool into a 1-year disappointment:
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Dirty Blade Sharpening: Always clean your pruners before sharpening. Dirt particles can scratch the blade surface, creating micro-damage that accelerates dulling.
Hulk-mode cutting: Pressing too hard during the foil-cutting process can actually damage the blade edge. Let the foil do the work!
Neglecting lubrication: After sharpening, a tiny drop of oil on the pivot point and blade will prevent rust and keep the action smooth. Skip this step and watch your pruners deteriorate in weeks.
(Between us, plant friends, I used to be guilty of ALL of these. My poor Japanese maple still hasn’t forgiven me for that butcher job with rusted pruners last spring!)
Why This 80-Year-Old Hack Still Outperforms Modern Methods
While garden centers want you to shell out $30+ for fancy sharpening gadgets, this Depression-era technique remains superior for three key reasons:
Perfect abrasion level: Aluminum foil provides just enough friction to sharpen without removing excess metal
Angle-matching magic: The foil naturally conforms to your pruner’s existing blade angle, maintaining the factory edge
Zero learning curve: Unlike whetstones that require technique, this method is literally foolproof
The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that expensive isn’t always better. Sometimes the simplest solution is the most brilliant, just like in nature!
Transform Your Entire Garden With One Sharp Move
When your pruners are razor-sharp, your entire garden benefits. Plants heal faster after pruning, exhibiting lush new growth rather than a stressed, struggling recovery.
Disease pressure drops dramatically. And suddenly those dreaded pruning tasks become, dare I say it, enjoyable!
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Your plants are trying to tell you something important: they thrive when treated with the proper tools. Sharp pruners aren’t just a convenience. They’re the foundation of healthy plants and successful gardens.
So grab that aluminum foil and give your pruners the 5-minute spa treatment they deserve. Your plants will reward you with vibrant growth, and your hands will thank you for the effortless cuts. Sometimes the most spectacular garden transformations come from the smallest changes!
The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that the game-changing solution for your struggling plants isn’t hiding in some expensive bottle at the garden center; it’s sitting right in your pantry.
My nana, with her 50+ years of gardening wisdom, swears that ordinary baking soda is the miracle plant hack that professional gardeners don’t want you to know about. And guess what? Science actually backs her up.
Why Your Plants Are Secretly Begging for Baking Soda
Those white powdery spots on your cucumber leaves? The black dots taking over your roses?
They’re actually fungal invasions that are slowly killing your beloved plants. And while most people reach for chemical-laden sprays, your plants are desperately trying to tell you they need something gentler.
Pin
Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) creates an alkaline environment that fungi absolutely hate, like trying to grow a cactus in a swamp.
When sprayed on leaves, it transforms the surface into a hostile territory where disease-causing pathogens simply can’t thrive.
Did you know? A Cornell University study found that baking soda solutions can reduce powdery mildew infections by up to 85% when applied regularly, nearly matching the effectiveness of commercial fungicides at a fraction of the cost!
The Magic Potion: Mix This in 2 Minutes Flat
Forget what you’ve heard about complicated plant remedies. This solution is ridiculously simple to make and works like pure magic on struggling plants.
Here’s your rescue recipe:
1 tablespoon baking soda (creates the fungus-fighting alkaline environment)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil (helps the solution stick to leaves)
1 gallon of water (the perfect dilution to prevent leaf burn)
Mix everything thoroughly, then pour the mixture into a spray bottle and shake well before each use. It’s like creating a force field around your plants that repels the nasty stuff while being completely harmless to kids, pets, and beneficial insects. Nature would be proud!
Plant-by-Plant Rescue Guide: Watch The Dramatic Revival
Not all plants are created equal, but this solution works wonders across your entire garden. Here’s how different plants flourish with the baking soda treatment:
Cucumber Plants: These drama queens of the garden are notorious for collapsing under powdery mildew attacks.
Spray both sides of leaves every 5-7 days, and watch as your cucumbers transform from withering victims to vigorous producers. I was shocked to discover that treating them early in the season can increase yields by up to 30%!
Tomato Plants: Early blight and leaf spot can turn promising tomato plants into sad, spotty disasters. Baking soda spray creates a protective shield against these fungal invaders.
For best results, apply after morning dew has dried but before the scorching afternoon sun. Your tomatoes will thank you with a spectacular harvest.
Roses: Black spot can make even prize-winning roses look neglected and sad. Weekly baking soda treatments can completely revive their appearance, bringing back that vibrant, lush foliage that makes your neighbors green with envy.
Squash & Zucchini: Much like their cucumber cousins, these plants frequently succumb to powdery mildew.
Pin
Regular baking soda applications can be the difference between a disappointing handful of veggies and an “oh-my-gosh-what-do-I-do-with-all-this-squash” situation.
Pro Tips: The Difference Between Success and Crispy Leaves
The game-changer for your garden isn’t just using baking soda. It’s using it correctly. Here’s what separates amateur plant parents from the pros:
Always test first: Spray one leaf and wait 24 hours to ensure no burning occurs
Timing matters: Apply in early morning or evening (never during peak sun hours)
Consistency is key: Reapply after heavy rain or every 7-10 days for prevention
Complete coverage: Don’t forget leaf undersides where fungi love to hide
Don’t overdo it: Too much baking soda can change soil pH over time (stick to leaves!)
Most people make this mistake with their baking soda spray: they wait until the disease has already taken hold. Like most remedies, this works best as a preventative measure or at the very first sign of trouble, not when your plant is already on life support.
Why This Works Better Than Store-Bought Solutions
Your plants aren’t just getting a disease treatment. They’re getting a comprehensive health boost that commercial products can’t match. Think of baking soda spray as a multivitamin for your garden rather than just an antibiotic.
Unlike harsh chemical fungicides that can build resistance over time (like bacteria to antibiotics), baking soda creates an environment change that pathogens can’t simply adapt to. It’s like trying to teach a fish to live on land, not happening!
Plus, there’s something deeply satisfying about rescuing your struggling basil plant with something that costs pennies rather than dropping $15 on a fancy spray. Your wallet flourishes right alongside your garden.
From Desperate to Dazzling: The Plant Transformation
The first time you try this on a plant that’s been struggling, the results feel almost magical. Leaves that were curling and spotted begin to perk up.
New growth emerges vibrant and healthy. Your garden transitions from “barely hanging on” to “bursting with life.”
Pin
And there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of knowing you saved your precious plants with a simple kitchen staple that your grandmother’s generation understood all along. Sometimes the old ways really are the best ways.
Next time you see your plants suffering, don’t panic and don’t rush to the store. Just channel your inner Nana, grab that box of baking soda, and watch the revival begin. Your plants and your wallet will thank you.
The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that the game-changing solution for your struggling plants isn’t hiding in some expensive bottle at the garden center; it’s sitting right in your pantry.
My nana, with her 50+ years of gardening wisdom, swears that ordinary baking soda is the miracle plant hack that professional gardeners don’t want you to know about. And guess what? Science actually backs her up.
Why Your Plants Are Secretly Begging for Baking Soda
Those white powdery spots on your cucumber leaves? The black dots taking over your roses?
They’re actually fungal invasions that are slowly killing your beloved plants. And while most people reach for chemical-laden sprays, your plants are desperately trying to tell you they need something gentler.
Pin
Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) creates an alkaline environment that fungi absolutely hate, like trying to grow a cactus in a swamp.
When sprayed on leaves, it transforms the surface into a hostile territory where disease-causing pathogens simply can’t thrive.
Did you know? A Cornell University study found that baking soda solutions can reduce powdery mildew infections by up to 85% when applied regularly, nearly matching the effectiveness of commercial fungicides at a fraction of the cost!
The Magic Potion: Mix This in 2 Minutes Flat
Forget what you’ve heard about complicated plant remedies. This solution is ridiculously simple to make and works like pure magic on struggling plants.
Here’s your rescue recipe:
1 tablespoon baking soda (creates the fungus-fighting alkaline environment)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil (helps the solution stick to leaves)
1 gallon of water (the perfect dilution to prevent leaf burn)
Mix everything thoroughly, then pour the mixture into a spray bottle and shake well before each use. It’s like creating a force field around your plants that repels the nasty stuff while being completely harmless to kids, pets, and beneficial insects. Nature would be proud!
Plant-by-Plant Rescue Guide: Watch The Dramatic Revival
Not all plants are created equal, but this solution works wonders across your entire garden. Here’s how different plants flourish with the baking soda treatment:
Cucumber Plants: These drama queens of the garden are notorious for collapsing under powdery mildew attacks.
Spray both sides of leaves every 5-7 days, and watch as your cucumbers transform from withering victims to vigorous producers. I was shocked to discover that treating them early in the season can increase yields by up to 30%!
Tomato Plants: Early blight and leaf spot can turn promising tomato plants into sad, spotty disasters. Baking soda spray creates a protective shield against these fungal invaders.
For best results, apply after morning dew has dried but before the scorching afternoon sun. Your tomatoes will thank you with a spectacular harvest.
Roses: Black spot can make even prize-winning roses look neglected and sad. Weekly baking soda treatments can completely revive their appearance, bringing back that vibrant, lush foliage that makes your neighbors green with envy.
Squash & Zucchini: Much like their cucumber cousins, these plants frequently succumb to powdery mildew.
Pin
Regular baking soda applications can be the difference between a disappointing handful of veggies and an “oh-my-gosh-what-do-I-do-with-all-this-squash” situation.
Pro Tips: The Difference Between Success and Crispy Leaves
The game-changer for your garden isn’t just using baking soda. It’s using it correctly. Here’s what separates amateur plant parents from the pros:
Always test first: Spray one leaf and wait 24 hours to ensure no burning occurs
Timing matters: Apply in early morning or evening (never during peak sun hours)
Consistency is key: Reapply after heavy rain or every 7-10 days for prevention
Complete coverage: Don’t forget leaf undersides where fungi love to hide
Don’t overdo it: Too much baking soda can change soil pH over time (stick to leaves!)
Most people make this mistake with their baking soda spray: they wait until the disease has already taken hold. Like most remedies, this works best as a preventative measure or at the very first sign of trouble, not when your plant is already on life support.
Why This Works Better Than Store-Bought Solutions
Your plants aren’t just getting a disease treatment. They’re getting a comprehensive health boost that commercial products can’t match. Think of baking soda spray as a multivitamin for your garden rather than just an antibiotic.
Unlike harsh chemical fungicides that can build resistance over time (like bacteria to antibiotics), baking soda creates an environment change that pathogens can’t simply adapt to. It’s like trying to teach a fish to live on land, not happening!
Plus, there’s something deeply satisfying about rescuing your struggling basil plant with something that costs pennies rather than dropping $15 on a fancy spray. Your wallet flourishes right alongside your garden.
From Desperate to Dazzling: The Plant Transformation
The first time you try this on a plant that’s been struggling, the results feel almost magical. Leaves that were curling and spotted begin to perk up.
New growth emerges vibrant and healthy. Your garden transitions from “barely hanging on” to “bursting with life.”
Pin
And there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of knowing you saved your precious plants with a simple kitchen staple that your grandmother’s generation understood all along. Sometimes the old ways really are the best ways.
Next time you see your plants suffering, don’t panic and don’t rush to the store. Just channel your inner Nana, grab that box of baking soda, and watch the revival begin. Your plants and your wallet will thank you.
Craving crisp, farm-fresh baby cucumbers but stuck with a tiny balcony or patio?
I was shocked to discover that these delicious little veggies actually thrive in containers; sometimes even better than in traditional gardens!
(And did you know container-grown cucumbers can produce up to 15 fruits per plant in just one season? That’s salad heaven right there.)
Why Your Windowsill is Secretly Begging for Baby Cucumbers
Baby cucumbers are the perfect matchmakers for container gardening, like tiny green tenants who pay rent in delicious harvests.
Their compact size means they don’t require mansion-sized planters, making them ideal for urban gardeners and space savers alike.
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The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that baby cucumbers grown in containers often suffer from fewer soil-borne diseases than their garden-planted cousins.
Container growing creates a controlled environment where you’re in control of everything, from soil quality to sun exposure.
Plus, there’s something ridiculously satisfying about plucking a perfect little cucumber from a pot right outside your kitchen door. No muddy garden trek required!
Container Magic: Setting Your Cukes Up for Spectacular Success
Your cucumber’s future home is as important as a high-rise penthouse—location and features matter! Here’s what your mini-cukes are desperately hoping you’ll provide:
Go big or go home: Choose a container at least 12 inches deep with excellent drainage holes. Think of it as giving your cucumbers room to stretch their legs underground.
Sun worshippers only: Position your container so that it receives a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily. These plants are basically sun-bathing enthusiasts.
Drainage is non-negotiable: Without proper drainage, your cucumber roots will essentially be sitting in a bathtub, and nobody wants soggy feet for long.
Forget what you’ve heard about needing fancy containers. While specialized vegetable planters work beautifully, I’ve seen thriving cucumber plants in repurposed buckets, old storage bins, and even large reusable shopping bags (with added drainage holes, of course)!
Soil Secrets That Transform Ordinary Containers into Cucumber Paradise
The difference between amateur and pro plant parents is simply knowing that soil isn’t just dirt. It’s the foundation of cucumber greatness. Your container cukes need:
High-quality vegetable potting mix (not garden soil, which compacts like concrete in containers)
A handful of compost mixed in for slow-release nutrition (like a time-release vitamin for your plants)
Loose, well-draining texture that holds moisture without becoming waterlogged
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The game-changer for your container cucumbers isn’t what you think it is. It’s adding a handful of perlite or vermiculite to your soil mix. This creates tiny air pockets that help roots breathe and expand easily, much like adding the perfect amount of air to bread dough.
Variety Selection: Not All Baby Cucumbers Were Created Equal
When it comes to container-friendly baby cucumber varieties, some are superstars while others are just… meh. Look for these container champions:
Spacemaster: Compact vines (only 36″ long!) with full-sized flavor
Bush Crop: Bushy rather than vining, perfect for tight spaces
Salad Bush: Award-winning compact plants with 8″ fruits
Patio Snacker: Lives up to its name, ideal for balconies
Most people make this mistake with their cucumber selection: choosing regular vining varieties that quickly turn into the Kudzu of your container garden, sprawling everywhere! Stick with bush or compact varieties for container success.
From Seed to Spectacular Harvest: The Grow Guide
Your baby cucumber journey breaks down into these simple steps:
Plant seeds directly: Place 2-3 seeds about 1″ deep, then thin to the strongest seedling once they sprout
Provide climbing support: Even compact varieties appreciate a small trellis or cage
Water consistently: Keep soil moist but never soggy (cucumbers are 95% water, after all!)
Feed every two weeks: Use a balanced liquid fertilizer to fuel your cucumber factory
Harvest often: Pick baby cucumbers when they reach 3-5″ long for the most vibrant flavor
Your cucumber plants are trying to tell you something important when their leaves yellow, usually that they’re either thirsty or hungry. A quick moisture check and feeding usually revives them to lush green health within days.
Outwitting the Cucumber Enemies
Container cucumbers may face fewer pest problems than garden-grown ones, but they’re not immune to trouble. Stay vigilant for:
Aphids: These tiny green vampires suck plant juices; blast them off with water or use insecticidal soap
Powdery mildew: This white coating spreads rapidly; improve air circulation, and try a baking soda spray (1 tbsp per gallon of water)
Cucumber beetles: Striped saboteurs that can destroy plants; hand-pick or use floating row covers
A breakthrough trick I’ve discovered: planting a few marigolds in the same container can naturally repel many cucumber pests while adding a splash of color to your grow space!
The Secret to Never-Ending Harvests
The more you pick, the more your plants produce. It’s like a botanical magic trick! Harvest your baby cucumbers when they reach 3-5 inches in length for the perfect snappy texture and sweet flavor.
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I was shocked to discover that leaving even one cucumber to grow too large signals to the plant that its reproductive mission is complete, drastically slowing future production. Harvest religiously every 1-2 days during peak season to maintain the cucumber factory’s full capacity.
Your homegrown baby cucumbers will store in the refrigerator for up to a week, but let’s be honest. They rarely last that long before being devoured!
Craving crisp, farm-fresh baby cucumbers but stuck with a tiny balcony or patio?
I was shocked to discover that these delicious little veggies actually thrive in containers; sometimes even better than in traditional gardens!
(And did you know container-grown cucumbers can produce up to 15 fruits per plant in just one season? That’s salad heaven right there.)
Why Your Windowsill is Secretly Begging for Baby Cucumbers
Baby cucumbers are the perfect matchmakers for container gardening, like tiny green tenants who pay rent in delicious harvests.
Their compact size means they don’t require mansion-sized planters, making them ideal for urban gardeners and space savers alike.
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The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that baby cucumbers grown in containers often suffer from fewer soil-borne diseases than their garden-planted cousins.
Container growing creates a controlled environment where you’re in control of everything, from soil quality to sun exposure.
Plus, there’s something ridiculously satisfying about plucking a perfect little cucumber from a pot right outside your kitchen door. No muddy garden trek required!
Container Magic: Setting Your Cukes Up for Spectacular Success
Your cucumber’s future home is as important as a high-rise penthouse—location and features matter! Here’s what your mini-cukes are desperately hoping you’ll provide:
Go big or go home: Choose a container at least 12 inches deep with excellent drainage holes. Think of it as giving your cucumbers room to stretch their legs underground.
Sun worshippers only: Position your container so that it receives a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily. These plants are basically sun-bathing enthusiasts.
Drainage is non-negotiable: Without proper drainage, your cucumber roots will essentially be sitting in a bathtub, and nobody wants soggy feet for long.
Forget what you’ve heard about needing fancy containers. While specialized vegetable planters work beautifully, I’ve seen thriving cucumber plants in repurposed buckets, old storage bins, and even large reusable shopping bags (with added drainage holes, of course)!
Soil Secrets That Transform Ordinary Containers into Cucumber Paradise
The difference between amateur and pro plant parents is simply knowing that soil isn’t just dirt. It’s the foundation of cucumber greatness. Your container cukes need:
High-quality vegetable potting mix (not garden soil, which compacts like concrete in containers)
A handful of compost mixed in for slow-release nutrition (like a time-release vitamin for your plants)
Loose, well-draining texture that holds moisture without becoming waterlogged
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The game-changer for your container cucumbers isn’t what you think it is. It’s adding a handful of perlite or vermiculite to your soil mix. This creates tiny air pockets that help roots breathe and expand easily, much like adding the perfect amount of air to bread dough.
Variety Selection: Not All Baby Cucumbers Were Created Equal
When it comes to container-friendly baby cucumber varieties, some are superstars while others are just… meh. Look for these container champions:
Spacemaster: Compact vines (only 36″ long!) with full-sized flavor
Bush Crop: Bushy rather than vining, perfect for tight spaces
Salad Bush: Award-winning compact plants with 8″ fruits
Patio Snacker: Lives up to its name, ideal for balconies
Most people make this mistake with their cucumber selection: choosing regular vining varieties that quickly turn into the Kudzu of your container garden, sprawling everywhere! Stick with bush or compact varieties for container success.
From Seed to Spectacular Harvest: The Grow Guide
Your baby cucumber journey breaks down into these simple steps:
Plant seeds directly: Place 2-3 seeds about 1″ deep, then thin to the strongest seedling once they sprout
Provide climbing support: Even compact varieties appreciate a small trellis or cage
Water consistently: Keep soil moist but never soggy (cucumbers are 95% water, after all!)
Feed every two weeks: Use a balanced liquid fertilizer to fuel your cucumber factory
Harvest often: Pick baby cucumbers when they reach 3-5″ long for the most vibrant flavor
Your cucumber plants are trying to tell you something important when their leaves yellow, usually that they’re either thirsty or hungry. A quick moisture check and feeding usually revives them to lush green health within days.
Outwitting the Cucumber Enemies
Container cucumbers may face fewer pest problems than garden-grown ones, but they’re not immune to trouble. Stay vigilant for:
Aphids: These tiny green vampires suck plant juices; blast them off with water or use insecticidal soap
Powdery mildew: This white coating spreads rapidly; improve air circulation, and try a baking soda spray (1 tbsp per gallon of water)
Cucumber beetles: Striped saboteurs that can destroy plants; hand-pick or use floating row covers
A breakthrough trick I’ve discovered: planting a few marigolds in the same container can naturally repel many cucumber pests while adding a splash of color to your grow space!
The Secret to Never-Ending Harvests
The more you pick, the more your plants produce. It’s like a botanical magic trick! Harvest your baby cucumbers when they reach 3-5 inches in length for the perfect snappy texture and sweet flavor.
Pin
I was shocked to discover that leaving even one cucumber to grow too large signals to the plant that its reproductive mission is complete, drastically slowing future production. Harvest religiously every 1-2 days during peak season to maintain the cucumber factory’s full capacity.
Your homegrown baby cucumbers will store in the refrigerator for up to a week, but let’s be honest. They rarely last that long before being devoured!
Drought tolerant, cold hardy, and popular with wildlife of all shapes and sizes, the beaked or big bend yucca (Yuccarostrata) is easy to love.
In the right conditions, it’s also fairly easy to grow. Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 12, this tall species requires little to no maintenance once established in sunny, arid conditions.
In our guide to growing yucca, we cover how to cultivate members of this diverse genus in your landscape.
Read on to find out more about beaked yucca and how to grow it at home. Here’s what I’ll cover:
This denizen of the desert grows up to 15 feet high, 10 feet wide, and sports a cluster of spear-shaped, stiff, blue-gray leaves on top of a thick trunk.
Although Y. rostrata looks like a tree, it’s technically a large herb, or forb, as it does not produce woody growth.
Importantly, the leaves of this species are not as sharp nor as rigid as some of the other tall types, such as Y. rigida, the blue yucca.
This makes it a good choice for gardens, especially if you have small children around.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Beaked, big bend, silver yucca
Plant type: Perennial succulent
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-12
Native to: Texas and northern Mexico
Bloom time / season: Late spring and summer
Exposure: Full sun
Soil type: Loose, sandy, gritty, well-draining
Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic to neutral
Time to maturity: 5 years
Mature size: Up to 15 feet tall by 3-4 feet wide
Best uses:Back of border, specimen, xeriscape
Taxonomy
Order: Asparagales
Family: Asparagaceae
Genus:Yucca
Species:Rostrata
Come spring, Y. rostrata sprouts a tall cluster of bell shaped, cream colored flowers that erupt, fountain like, from the center of its rosette.
The flowers are pollinated only by the yucca moth, but attract a diversity of hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.
As the plant ages, it often branches, creating two large tufts of foliage filled with long, slender leaves.
These leaves, if not removed, eventually senesce and die, lying flat against the trunk. Over time, Y.rostrata acquires a “skirt” of these pale beige leaves, creating important habitat for wildlife.
In its native Texas, and the Chihuahua, and Coahuila regions of Mexico, this species thrives in habitats with very little annual rainfall.
