Category: Home & Garden

Commonly known as anise seed but often confused with star anise (Illicium verum) and anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), it has been used for centuries and is known for its amazing health-promoting properties.

P. anisum has earned its reputation for helping a wide array of ailments.

Let us dive in to discover some interesting facts about this herb, and maybe you’ll find ways you would like to use it at home to assist with your medicinal needs.

Anise Cultivation and Historical Medicinal Use

Anise is said to be native to western Asia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean region. It was first cultivated in Egypt and later in Greece, the Middle East, and Rome.

Today, anise is grown at home and cultivated for commercial sale worldwide in places such as southern Europe, the Middle East, southern Russia, Africa, China, Chile, Mexico, India, Pakistan, and in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 11 in the United States.

In the first century BCE, the Roman Empire played its part in making the trade of this herb possible by constructing a center for trade in Alexandria, Egypt that regulated all of the spices that arrived in the Greco-Roman region.

This trade included a network of land and sea routes that spread into Persia, Arabia, India, and China through what was known as the Silk Road.

The Romans even served what they called spiced cakes that contained anise, at the end of their “entertainment” events, to avoid flatulence and indigestion.

You could say they knew how to throw a party. Anise even earned the Latin moniker “Solamen intestinorum,” a fine name which translates to “comforter of the bowels” in English.

In these writings, mixing anise with other herbs is also described to assist with various ailments, like colds and coughs. But it was mainly known as a traditional medicine for treating abdominal and dental diseases.

P. anisum is also mentioned in the New Testament: “Woe unto you scribes and Pharisees, hypocrites! For ye pay tithe of mint and anise and cumin, and have omitted the weightier matters of the law, judgment, mercy, and faith (Matt. 23:23).”

Now that sounds like a big deal!

A Roman generalist named Pliny the Elder, who lived during the first century of the Common Era, reported anise mixed with wine was used by the Egyptians to treat snake bites.

Another mixture of anise, linseed, cucumber seeds, and white wine was mixed to eliminate childbirth-related vertigo. And Pliny stated that P. anisum was an aphrodisiac, relieved thirst, and promoted perspiration when mixed with wine.

Anise was also used historically to expel intestinal parasites, assist with vertigo, increase milk supply in nursing mothers, and combat nausea.

During the American Civil War, it was used as an antiseptic and to treat lice.

Beyond the herb’s traditional medicinal usage, it was also used in cosmetics and all things culinary. And let’s not forget the anise love that influenced ideas for flavoring liquor.

Modern Medicinal Uses for Anise

The leaves and seeds are used in cooking, and the dried seeds are the part of the plant used medicinally, made into specific herbal preparations that can be used internally or topically.

The seeds, which are actually small fruits, are known to have many potential herbal effects in modern use.

These include analgesic, anticonvulsant, antifungal, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antidepressant, anti-anxiety, antispasmodic, antiviral, aromatic, carminative, disinfectant, pectoral, tonic, diuretic, emollient, expectorant, sedative, digestive, anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, and galactagogue applications.

See our guide to medicinal herbs and their uses for more information about what these terms mean. (coming soon!)

Today, people may use anise for treating and alleviating digestion, stomach-related ailments, sleep disorders, respiratory ailments, liver and gall bladder ailments, sore throat, skin disorders, immune system issues, neurological disorders, headaches, hormonal balance, milk production, and anxiety, to name a few.

And it may also be used as a mosquito repellant!

The seeds are excellent copper, potassium, zinc, manganese, iron, calcium, and magnesium sources.

Though it is important to keep in mind, as with all herbs, that they are to be consumed in moderation and should not be relied on alone as a key source of vitamins and minerals.

Next up, let’s talk about how you can use anise to make your own remedies in various preparations.

Tea

To prepare a tea, you will need one teaspoon of dried P. anisum seeds and one cup of boiling purified water.

Place your seeds into a ceramic or glass teapot. I have not gotten the chance to use a fancy glass teapot myself, but when I do, I will make sure to drink my anise tea with one pinky up, maybe two.

Don’t worry if you don’t have this – you can use an ordinary pot for boiling in.

You want to use crushed seeds to allow the release of volatile oils. You can also use ground anise seeds in the form of a powder. Cover the pot and allow the herbs to steep in the boiling water for five to 10 minutes.

Strain the tea, and enjoy! It’s best to use it immediately. Some herbal practitioners recommend drinking one cup up to three times daily.

There is a debate in the herbal community about whether to use boiling or just hot water in the steeping process.

Some sources suggest boiling water can destroy certain beneficial compounds, while other sources say it is necessary to extract the full flavor and benefits of the seeds.

You could say it is a full-blown herbal war, and you can only break this tie when you choose your own personal preference.

Infusion

An infusion is a stronger version of tea. Infusions will extract more of the active constituents within the liquid. Think of it as a more powerful extracting process.

For this recipe, you will need one ounce of dried P. anisum seeds and one pint of purified water.

Place your seeds into your ceramic or glass teapot; an electric kettle or kettle on the stove will also work. Bring your water to a boil and cover your pot.

You will let this infusion steep for 10 to 30 minutes. Strain your infusion and enjoy.

Even though infusions are intended for immediate use, you can save them for later and place them in your refrigerator for a maximum of 24 hours after cooling to room temperature.

Tincture

Tinctures involve an even more robust extraction process. Tinctures extract the herb’s chemical constituents using alcohol, vinegar, or vegetable glycerin.

Alcohol is the most effective and most commonly used for this herbal preparation, specifically ethyl alcohol, the type that is used in making vodka.

It is recommended that you use 90-proof alcohol for this process.

For this recipe, you will need one ounce of anise seeds and one pint of alcohol, or even apple cider vinegar. You will start by mixing your seeds with the alcohol or vinegar in a glass jar.

Ensure your glass jar has a tight-fitting lid, like a preserving or canning jar.

Keep this tincture jar closed tightly and in a warm spot, but not in the sun, for approximately two weeks. You will want to shake your jar two to three times daily.

After two weeks, strain your tincture through muslin, cheesecloth, a coffee filter, or a pharmaceutical filter.

It is okay if you need to strain more than once to remove all of the solids from the liquid. Make sure you remove all of the solids, as any that remain can lead to spoilage and mold.

Many herbalists recommend using 20 to 40 drops three times daily. Dilute these drops in approximately one-quarter cup of water to drink.

Or drink the recommended amount straight if you just really like vodka that much. I’ll promise not to judge.

Infused Oil

There are different ways to make infused oil. There is what we call the “I’m tired” method, and then there’s the long way. I have done both, the tired one a teeny bit more.

For the quick way, you will need a double boiler, canning jar, carrier oil of your choice, and dried anise seeds. A stainless-steel double boiler will do the job.

With this recipe, we will talk in parts and ratios. You will use one part herb to five parts oil. An example of this would be one ounce of dried seeds to five fluid ounces of oil.

Since the constituents we want to extract using this method are oil-soluble, we can use any type of fat.

You can use any carrier oil, from the most common olive, coconut, and grapeseed oils to less common oils and plant butters like cupuacu and mango.

Place the anise in the double boiler and cover it with oil. You will cover and allow it to simmer gently for approximately two to three hours, checking frequently to ensure your oil is not overheating.

The lower your heat settings are, and the longer the infusion time you allow, the better your oil will be in quality. When it cools down, strain it and bottle it.

Remember to store it in a cool, dark place. You should keep it away from heat and light. In most cases, the shelf life is six to 12 months, but some oils can last up to five years.

You can always add a preservative like vitamin E to extend the shelf life up to two years. If adding vitamin E or using certain types of carrier oils, you don’t want to use this internally.

For the long way, you will place your dried seed and oil into a canning jar and allow it to sit for two to four weeks in a cool, dark place.

You can also store this infusion on a sunny, warm windowsill and let the sun do its work. Some herbalists love sun infusions and some not so much.

Remember the herbal wars? Yes, it is up to you to choose again. It all boils down to you and your intuition.

You will shake once or twice daily. When the time has come, strain it, and you will have your herbal oil infusion.

And when the days of the Pentecost were accomplished, they were all together in one place: And suddenly there came a sound from heaven, as of a mighty wind coming, and it filled the whole house where they were sitting. And there appeared to them parted tongues as it were of fire, and it sat upon every one of them: And they were all filled with the Holy Ghost, and they began to speak with divers tongues, according as the Holy Ghost gave them to speak. Now there were dwelling at Jerusalem, Jews, devout men, out of every nation under heaven.

And when this was noised abroad, the multitude came together, and were confounded in mind, because that every man heard them speak in his own tongue. And they were all amazed, and wondered, saying: Behold, are not all these, that speak, Galileans? And how have we heard, every man our own tongue wherein we were born? Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites, and inhabitants of Mesopotamia, Judea, and Cappadocia, Pontus and Asia, Phrygia, and Pamphylia, Egypt, and the parts of Libya about Cyrene, and strangers of Rome,

Jews also, and proselytes, Cretes, and Arabians: we have heard them speak in our own tongues the wonderful works of God. And they were all astonished, and wondered, saying one to another: What meaneth this? But others mocking, said: These men are full of new wine. But Peter standing up with the eleven, lifted up his voice, and spoke to them: Ye men of Judea, and all you that dwell in Jerusalem, be this known to you, and with your ears receive my words. For these are not drunk, as you suppose, seeing it is but the third hour of the day:

But this is that which was spoken of by the prophet Joel: And it shall come to pass, in the last days, (saith the Lord,) I will pour out of my Spirit upon all flesh: and your sons and your daughters shall prophesy, and your young men shall see visions, and your old men shall dream dreams. And upon my servants indeed, and upon my handmaids will I pour out in those days of my spirit, and they shall prophesy. And I will shew wonders in the heaven above, and signs on the earth beneath: blood and fire, and vapour of smoke. The sun shall be turned into darkness, and the moon into blood, before the great and manifest day of the Lord come.

And it shall come to pass, that whosoever shall call upon the name of the Lord, shall be saved. Ye men of Israel, hear these words: Jesus of Nazareth, a man approved of God among you, by miracles, and wonders, and signs, which God did by him, in the midst of you, as you also know: This same being delivered up, by the determinate counsel and foreknowledge of God, you by the hands of wicked men have crucified and slain. Whom God hath raised up, having loosed the sorrows of hell, as it was impossible that he should be holden by it. For David saith concerning him: I foresaw the Lord before my face: because he is at my right hand, that I may not be moved.

For this my heart hath been glad, and my tongue hath rejoiced: moreover my flesh also shall rest in hope. Because thou wilt not leave my soul in hell, nor suffer thy Holy One to see corruption. Thou hast made known to me the ways of life: thou shalt make me full of joy with thy countenance. Ye men, brethren, let me freely speak to you of the patriarch David; that he died, and was buried; and his sepulchre is with us to this present day. Whereas therefore he was a prophet, and knew that God hath sworn to him with an oath, that of the fruit of his loins one should sit upon his throne.

Foreseeing this, he spoke of the resurrection of Christ. For neither was he left in hell, neither did his flesh see corruption. This Jesus hath God raised again, whereof all we are witnesses. Being exalted therefore by the right hand of God, and having received of the Father the promise of the Holy Ghost, he hath poured forth this which you see and hear. For David ascended not into heaven; but he himself said: The Lord said to my Lord, sit thou on my right hand, Until I make thy enemies thy footstool.

Therefore let all the house of Israel know most certainly, that God hath made both Lord and Christ, this same Jesus, whom you have crucified. Now when they had heard these things, they had compunction in their heart, and said to Peter, and to the rest of the apostles: What shall we do, men and brethren? But Peter said to them: Do penance, and be baptized every one of you in the name of Jesus Christ, for the remission of your sins: and you shall receive the gift of the Holy Ghost. For the promise is to you, and to your children, and to all that are far off, whomsoever the Lord our God shall call. And with very many other words did he testify and exhort them, saying: Save yourselves from this perverse generation.

They therefore that received his word, were baptized; and there were added in that day about three thousand souls. And they were persevering in the doctrine of the apostles, and in the communication of the breaking of bread, and in prayers. And fear came upon every soul: many wonders also and signs were done by the apostles in Jerusalem, and there was great fear in all. And all they that believed, were together, and had all things common. Their possessions and goods they sold, and divided them to all, according as every one had need.

And continuing daily with one accord in the temple, and breaking bread from house to house, they took their meat with gladness and simplicity of heart; Praising God, and having favour with all the people. And the Lord increased daily together such as should be saved.

-Acts 2

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Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is a highly popular vine that responds well when cut back to manage its size and spread, or to encourage branching for denser growth.

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These showy vines are loved for their masses of fragrant, starry white flowers, with glossy, evergreen leaves, and lush growth.

But for the first few years, they’re slow growing and pruning isn’t required.

After they’re well established, growth is steady and vigorous, although it’s not rampant.

Generally well-behaved, an annual or biannual trim or light cutback can help to enhance blooming by encouraging branching and bushiness, and this helps to maintain an appealing shape and size. 

Cutting vines back hard is typically only needed to rejuvenate old, overgrown, or neglected plants.

A twining perennial in areas with mild winters, these easy-care vines are resilient and quickly recover from cutting back, spreading freely once more!

So if it’s time to reshape, resize, or revitalize your T. jasminoides, let’s get into how and when to cut back star jasmine.

Here’s the lowdown on what’s ahead:

The growing tips of star jasmine remain fairly small and are easily cut with clean, sharp garden shears, extension loppers, or hedge trimmers.

Manual cutting is the preferred method of pruning, but for large swaths of vines and foliage – like a ground cover – using hand tools can quickly become labor intensive and tedious.

For big jobs, an electric hedge trimmer or a string trimmer is the way to go.

And for lofty spots, an extendable pruner is a handy alternative to climbing up ladders – something I’m not crazy about.

My preference is a three-in-one extension tool that can be used for sawing or pruning, and with your own height added in, it extends close to 20 feet.

Extendable Pole Pruner/Saw

Try this sturdy, Italian-made pole pruner/saw. It has a reach of five to 14 feet and is available at Garrett Wade.

Mature vines can develop thick, woody main stems with a diameter of two or three inches.

For hard pruning, a garden saw can be useful, or even a small chainsaw if you have multiple large stems to tend to.

I recently picked up a six-inch mini chainsaw to cut back an old, tangled apple tree. It was so fast and easy, I’m stunned it took me this long to get one!

Hyper Tough Mini Chainsaw

You can find a six-inch chainsaw from Hyper Tough via Walmart. This model ships with a battery and charger.

When shopping, be sure to look for deals that include a battery (and a spare), charger, an extra chain, and accessories like safety glasses.

Also, gloves and long sleeves should be worn when pruning these vines, as T. jasminoides secretes a sticky milky sap when cut, which can cause skin irritation for some folks.

And please use safety goggles as well, particularly if you go the chainsaw route.

Time It Right

This beautiful evergreen is hardy in USDA Zones 8 to 10, but even in mild climates, growth slows over winter.

Growth is revived with the arrival of spring, and flowering takes place in late spring to early summer, depending on your location.

For established plants, cutting back is done at the end of winter to very early spring, or they can be pruned right after flowering – this too depends on your location.

If you’re in the warm end of their hardiness range and enjoy a long growing season, cut back once flowering is finished. But don’t leave it until too late – trimming should be completed by midsummer for plants to recover before cool weather arrives.

For areas in the cooler end of their cold tolerance, cutting back in early spring is recommended to give plants a full season to recover, form new growth, set flower buds, and prepare for winter.

When needed, a hard prune can also be done either in very early spring, or in summer after flowering. But keep in mind that flowers develop on short lateral stems sprouting from old wood.

If you hard prune early, you’ll miss out on most of this year’s flowers.

Hard prune in very early spring if the vines are no longer producing flowers. If they’re still floriferous, enjoy the perfumed blossoms first, then cut back hard in early summer once the flowers have faded and turned brown.

Trim Lightly for Maintenance

To maintain your plants’ health, size, and shape, remove stems that are congested, damaged, tangled, or weak, and head back last year’s growth at the same time.

Use clean, sharp hedge trimmers, loppers, or garden shears to cut back stems by a few inches to as much as one-third, making a diagonal cut just above a set of buds or leaves.

For climbing vines, start at the bottom and work your way up, trimming back last year’s growth and making cuts to create the shape you desire.

Use a light touch and cut a few stems at a time, stepping back often to check that your work matches your vision.

Avoid over-pruning, which can create unsightly open patches that may or may not fill in this year.

For ground covers, use hedge trimmers or a string trimmer to reduce last season’s growth to the desired height. Trim border limits to maintain a clean, crisp edge if desired.

And if you’re in the market for a string trimmer, be sure to check our review of the Worx Power Share cordless trimmer and edger.

Both climbers and ground covers can be trimmed lightly after flowering to keep any wayward tendrils in check.

Hard Prune for Rejuvenation

Overgrown plants can be pruned back hard for rejuvenation in early spring or immediately after flowering.

First remove any damaged, dead, or diseased vines using clean, sharp garden shears, and thin out crossed or crowded stems.

Cut back the remaining stems by as much as one-half to two-thirds.

Prune to a side shoot or flowering spur to encourage new growth on the remaining stems and prompt new shoots to emerge from the base.

Cut stems diagonally just above a set of leaves or buds.

Care After Pruning

When you’ve finished trimming or pruning your star jasmine, water vines deeply to help them recover from shock.

Feeding plants also helps them to recover and promotes new growth.

Apply a two- to four-inch layer of compost over the root zone or use a slow-release fertilizer with a balanced ratio of 10-10-10 NPK.

Fragrant Showy Vines

Star jasmine is an easy-care plant that typically only needs a light touchup to keep looking good.

Trim lightly or prune hard in very early spring, or you can wait until after flowering to cut back the plants.

After cutting back, give them a long, deep drink and feed with compost or an all-purpose fertilizer for fragrant, showy vines!

How do you folks use star jasmine in your garden? Let us know in the comments section below.

And for more info on growing jasmine in your garden, be sure to check out these guides next:

Clover is an easy plant to spot if it grows in your yard because it looks different from other plants. Trifolium is the formal name for this beautiful flower. Since “tri” means “three” and “folium” means “leaves,” “Trifolium” means “three leaves.” And that’s exactly what you can see on clover plants. Each leaf has three lobes, and based on their shape, I think the “clubs” suit in a deck of cards got its name from them.

The flowers are round and have a lot of small petals on each one. They attract bees like crazy because they are full of nectar and have pollen that is high in protein. Which, it turns out, is a great thing for bee larvae to eat.

There are different kinds of clover. Trifolium repens has white flowers, Trifolium pratense has red or pink flowers, Trifolium arvense is a cute little plant with fluffy flowers, and Trifolium dubium, or yellow suckling clover, has, you got it, yellow flowers.

Most clovers grow slowly and don’t mind being mowed. Agricultural types, on the other hand, can grow to almost knee height and are very strong.

Clover is a type of plant called a legume. Peas, beans, and vetches are also grown. All of the plants in that family are able to fix nitrogen from the air and add it to the soil where they are growing. Because of this, they are very valuable and useful plants to have in a crop cycle.

7 Reasons Why Clover Is Invading Your Lawn

If a yard doesn’t have a secret way for clover to get in, it won’t grow there. Let’s find out how it is sneaking onto your lawn.

1. Compacted Soil

When the soil is packed down, the roots of grass can’t get the water, air, and nutrients they need to grow healthy. Clover’s thick, linked roots help it grow well in poor, compacted soil where grass dies and loses its color. Clover can take over patches of your lawn where the grass is getting thin or has died.

Fix: Aerating your yard on a regular basis loosens the soil and gives the grass roots room to breathe and nutrients to grow. If the grass grows well, there won’t be any empty spots where clover can grow. Your aeration schedule will rely on where you live and what kind of soil you have, but most people should do it once a year.

2. Low Nitrogen Levels

Since clover is a legume, it takes nitrogen from the air and turns it into a form that plants can use. This is not an option for turfgrass. In places with little nitrogen, grass has a hard time staying alive, but clover grows well. In fact, it’s a sign that the land doesn’t have enough nitrogen.

Use a nitrogen-rich fertilizer on your yard to fix it. Nitrogen fertilizer will give your grass the energy it needs to fight off clover. Grass will grow faster and stronger, but clover won’t notice a difference because it already fixes nitrogen on its own. In fact, nitrogen can stop legumes from growing.

You can choose a synthetic, fast-release fertilizer to make plants grow quickly, or you can choose an organic, slow-release fertilizer for its long-term benefits.

Some excellent organic fertilizer options include:

• Cow manure
• Guano
• Earthworm castings
• Bone meal
• Liquid kelp
• Blood meal

Synthetic fertilizer that works quickly is a quick fix, but it will hurt your soil and the earth over time. Organic fertilizer will take longer to do its job, but it will make the earth healthier and help the grass grow for a longer time.

3. Unbalanced Soil Ph

Grass grows best when the pH is between 6 and 7. Clover can help when your soil is too acidic or too alkaline (basic).

Even though most types of clover like pH levels between 6.0 and 7.0, they can handle pH levels that grass can’t. Alsike clover can grow in soils with a pH as low as 5.5, red clover can grow in soils with a pH over 7.0, and strawberry clover can grow in soils with a pH between 5.3 and 8.2.

Fix: Check your lawn’s dirt and make any changes that are needed. First, find out how to test your soil by calling your local cooperative extension office.

Once you know the pH of your soil, you can change it to make it better for grass. Add lime or wood ash to dirt that is too acidic. If the soil is too acidic, add waste or sulfur.

4. Mowing Too Low

You might think that mowing close to the ground would hurt clover, but all it does is stress your grass. When you cut at a height of 3 inches or more, the grass wins: The tall grass stops the sunlight from reaching the lower-growing clover. Without sunlight, clover can’t grow and thrive.

Fix: The fix is to turn your mower’s deck up to the highest setting and mow your yard higher than 3 inches. This will make your grass grow taller and make clover less likely to grow there. Follow the “one-third rule” to keep your yard from getting stressed: don’t cut more than one-third of the grass height at one time.

5. Underwatering Or Overwatering

Too little of a good thing or too much of it is… Well, you know the saying, and it’s true that you should water your yard when it’s dry. If you don’t water your grass enough, it will get brown and wilt, and it won’t be able to compete with clover, which can handle weather better than turfgrasses.

When you water grass too much, it gets fungus, diseases, shallow roots, and the earth gets packed down. All of these things make it hard for grass to grow and make it easy for clover and a lot of other plant weeds to get in.

Fix: Water your yard often, but don’t water it too shallowly or too often. You can water your yard 1-1.5 inches once a week, or you can do it twice a week. Water should go 6 to 8 inches deep into the dirt to reach your roots. So, grass roots will grow deep and be able to stand up to dryness.

Tip: Water your grass in the morning before 10 a.m. Don’t water your grass at night. It will get sick if you do.

6. Wrong Grass Type

Clover grows best in places that are cool and wet. Grass? Well, it depends. Depending on where you live, you need either cool-season grass, warm-season grass, or both. If you put the wrong grass for your area, it will have a hard time adjusting to the weather and may get sick, wilt, and die. That makes clover the perfect “in” to your lawn.

Most clover grows in the north and middle of the United States, where cool-season grasses do well. If your lawn has warm-season grasses like Zoysia, St. Augustine, and Bermudagrass, it’s easy for clover to take over.

Fix: Make sure you put grass that grows well in your area. Check out our complete guide to find out what kind of grass you have and which grass seeds will help it grow.

If you aren’t sure which grass is best for your area, you can get seeding help from your cooperative extension service.

7. Lots Of Sunlight

Most lawn plants like the sun, and clover does too. Clover won’t grow in your yard just because it’s sunny. However, if your lawn has other problems, like compacted soil or too much grass cutting, clover can start to grow there.

Fix: Make sure your lawn stays as healthy as possible. If you know that clover will grow in your yard, you should give it as few reasons as possible to do so. Your yard can stay free of clover if you overseed, fertilize, aerate, and water it right.

How To Stop Clover From Growing In Your Lawn

You can stop clover from growing in your yard in a number of ways.

Spread Organic Fertilizer

Using organic fertilizer that releases nitrogen slowly will make clover less likely to grow in your yard. Some residents like traditional, fast-release fertilizer because it grows grass quickly and costs less. But in the long run, plants that use organic fertilizer will grow better. Cow manure, guano, blood meal, bone meal, earthworm casts, and liquid kelp are all examples of organic fertilizers that are often used.

Use Corn Meal Gluten

Organic peptides from the corn meal gluten get into the earth and stop the clover from growing. This won’t kill current clover, but it will stop new seeds from growing. It will do this for all seeds, though, so don’t use it if you just reseeded your lawn.

Luckily, this won’t hurt the grass that’s already there. You can buy corn gluten meal at a yard store near you or on the Internet.

Mow Grass High

The best grass for clover is grass that is less than 3 inches tall. This height makes your grass work harder, which makes it easier for clover to grow. If you let your grass grow long, it has an edge over the clover, making it easier for the grass to win.

What’s Causing Clover In My Lawn?

Clover could grow in your garden for a number of reasons, most of which have to do with the soil.

• Wrong pH: For most lawns, the perfect pH, which measures how acidic or alkaline the soil is, is between 6.0 and 7.0. If your lawn’s dirt is too acidic, grass will have a hard time growing, while clover will do much better. You can fix the pH by adding things to the dirt, like lime.
• Poor Nitrogen Levels: When there isn’t much nitrogen in the soil, clover grows well. To grow well, grass needs nitrogen in the soil, but clover can get the nitrogen it needs from the air, making its own fertilizer. If you’ve used too much fast-acting fertilizer, your soil may not have enough nitrogen. Even though they make grass grow quickly, they can hurt the health of your soil in the long run. You can avoid this by switching to organic fertilizers like soil or corn meal.
• Compacted soil: Soil that is too hard makes it hard for your grass to get the nutrients, like nitrogen, air, and water it needs. A core or spike aerator can help break up the hard ground.

Why You May Want To Keep Clover In Your Lawn

You might not like the way clover looks, but it can help your lawn.

• Natural Fertilizer: Clover is able to take nitrogen from the air because it lives in harmony with good bugs. In the long run, it can make your grass greener and fuller. But this will keep it growing and make it grow faster than your grass.
• Weed prevention: If you mow your yard high, weeds, like clover, won’t be able to grow. But if you want neat grass that is less than 3 inches tall, letting clover grow is a good choice. Because the leaves of clover cast shade over the soil, it’s hard for other weeds to take root and grow, which makes it harder for your grass to grow.

Benefits Of Clover

Not everything is bad about having clover in your yard. Some people even plant it. Before the 1950s, clover was a favorite of homes. Clover covered the ground when nothing else would because it is hardy and can grow in poor soil that doesn’t hold water well. But over time, pure turf grass became the usual way to take care of a lawn.

Clover is still a low-maintenance plant that you don’t have to mow as often as other greens, even though tastes change. It can also grow in hard conditions and keep your lawn green during dry times. Plus, clover gives bees and other insects a way to get food. Clover seeds are used by many farmers and gardeners because the plant feeds and improves the soil.

FAQ

Read on for answers to some common questions about the weed with three leaves and white flowers that can take over your beautiful yard.

What Will Kill Clover But Not Grass?

Clover and other weeds can be killed by a selective pesticide, but grass will not be hurt. Avoid using herbicides that can hurt any plant they come into touch with. Even if you use a selective pesticide, it’s best to treat weeds one at a time instead of spraying them with chemicals.

Should I Get Rid Of Clover In My Lawn?

If your idea of a beautiful yard is a smooth carpet of grass blades that are all the same length, you may want to get rid of clover. There are good reasons, however, to invite clover: It smells great, stays green even when it’s dry, attracts bees and other helpful bugs, and can even cover other weeds.

Why Is Clover Taking Over My Lawn?

When it’s easier for the weed to grow than the grass, clover can take over your yard. For example, if your lawn doesn’t have enough nitrogen, clover is likely to grow well. Clover is a perennial plant, which means that if it is there during one growing season, it will probably be there again the next.

Planting centipede grass seed in Georgia is a great way to get a lush, green lawn that is easy to care for and can handle the warm, hot weather. For this type of grass to grow well, it needs to be planted at the right time. Late spring or early summer is the best time to plant.

When To Plant Centipede Grass Seed In Georgia?

In Georgia, the best time to put centipede grass seed is in late spring or early summer, usually between April and July. During this time, the dirt is between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, which is perfect for centipede grass. If you plant the seeds at this time, they are more likely to get the right amount of heat to grow, which will lead to a lush, green yard.

It’s important to remember that even though this is the best time, natural conditions can change from year to year, so it’s best to keep an eye on the weather. Don’t plant in the winter because the cold can make it hard for seeds to germinate and plants to grow. Be aware that it can take up to three weeks for seeds to sprout and even longer for grass to grow into a thick carpet.

Can You Grow Centipede Grass From Seed In Georgia?

Yes, centipede grass can be grown from seed in Georgia. Centipede grass is a popular choice for fields in this area because it doesn’t need much care and can handle the warm, humid weather that is common in Georgia.

It grows slowly, so you don’t have to mow it as often as other types of grass. The seeds can be planted right in the ground, and with the right care and conditions, they can grow into a beautiful, green garden. To make sure the plants grow well, though, it’s important to prepare the dirt well and water the seeds often.

What Is The Best Time To Sow Centipede Grass Seed In Georgia?

In Georgia, the best time to plant centipede grass seed is from April to July, which is late spring to early summer. This is when the dirt is between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the best range for centipede grass seeds to grow.

During this time, the weather is usually warm and muggy, which is great for the grass to grow and develop. But it’s always important to keep an eye on the weather and dirt to make sure they’re good for planting. Also, you shouldn’t plant seeds in the winter because the cold can make it hard for them to grow.

How Much Sunlight Does Centipede Grass Need In Georgia?

For best growing, centipede grass in Georgia needs full sun to some shade. In an ideal world, it should get at least six hours of sunshine every day. This type of grass can handle a lot of heat, which makes it a great choice for Georgia’s open, sunny places.

But it can also grow in partial shade, which means it can grow under trees or buildings that provide only a little shade. But keep in mind that if your yard gets too much shade, centipede grass may have trouble growing and may become thin or patchy.

What Are The Recommended Varieties Of Centipede Grass For Georgia?

The best types of centipede grass for Georgia are Common Centipede and TifBlair. Common Centipede is a low-maintenance type that is perfect for people who don’t want to do much to take care of their lawns. It doesn’t mind being dry, grows slowly, and can handle the heat and humidity of Georgia.

On the other hand, TifBlair is a more improved type. It grows faster, can handle cold better, and spreads out more than the Common Centipede. The sandy, acidic soils that are typical in Georgia are good for both types.

How often should the seeds of centipede grass in Georgia be watered?

In Georgia, you should water centipede grass seed every day for the first three weeks after you plant it. This keeps the dirt moist and makes it easier for the seeds to grow. But don’t water too much, because that can cause seed rot and diseases caused by fungi.

After the seeds have sprouted, water them about once a week, but make sure to water them deeply so the roots can grow deeper into the dirt. During times of drought or extreme heat, you may need to water the grass more often to keep it from dying out.

As grass gets older, it gets better at withstanding drought, but a healthy lawn will still need to be watered on a regular plan.

What Pests And Diseases Affect Centipede Grass In Georgia?

In Georgia, centipede grass can be hurt by a number of pests and diseases. White grubs, mole crickets, and chinch bugs are the most common pests. They can do a lot of damage to the yard by eating the grass or its roots.

Centipede grass can also get diseases like dollar spot, brown patch, and grey leaf spot, which cause discolored patches and could do a lot of damage if not handled. With regular yard care, like watering, mowing, and fertilizing, these problems can be avoided. If pests or diseases are found, they need to be taken care of quickly to stop more damage.

Can You Overseed Centipede Grass In Georgia?

Most of the time, people in Georgia don’t suggest overseeding centipede grass. This is mostly because centipede grass grows slowly and does not like being walked on as much as other types of grass.

When you overseed, you put new grass seed on top of your current lawn. This could make your lawn less uniform and possibly weaker. If your centipede grass garden is thin or damaged, it might be better to fix the problems that are causing it to grow slowly, like poor soil health, bad watering habits, or pest problems, instead of reseeding.

How Do You Prepare The Soil For Planting Centipede Grass Seed In Georgia?

To get the ground ready for planting centipede grass seed in Georgia, first clear away any rocks, twigs, or old grass. Then, till the dirt to a depth of 4 to 6 inches to break it up and make it easier for air to get in.

After tilling, level the area so that when the grass is sown, the water goes everywhere. Centipede grass grows best in slightly acidic soil, so test the pH and add a good soil amendment if it needs to be changed from 5.0 to 6.0. Lastly, add a starter fertilizer to the dirt right before you plant grass seeds. This will give the new grass the nutrients it needs to grow.

How Long Does It Take For Centipede Grass Seed To Germinate And Establish In Georgia?

In Georgia, it usually takes between two and three weeks for centipede grass seed to sprout, but this can change based on things like the temperature and moisture level of the soil. After the seeds have sprouted, it may take a few more weeks for the grass to take hold and start to grow.

When To Plant Centipede Grass Seed In North Carolina

The best time to plant this grass is in late spring or early summer every year. Turf experts say that early summer is the best time to put grass seeds because the warm weather and rain will help the seeds germinate faster and the grass grow quickly.

You can also plant it in late spring or early fall, but only if the soil temperature stays above 70°F and there is no chance of frost or freezing. This would take more than 80 days of daytime highs that stay the same to reach.

You should never plant centipede grass later than August in the fall or 90 days before the first expected frost in the area. This is because it’s risky for the seeds to grow if they don’t get big enough before winter. So, it won’t make it through the winter.

What About Dormant Seeding?

When farmers do dormant seeding, they wait until it gets cooler and the temperature isn’t likely to go above 60-65 degrees F. Then, they’ll plant seeds that they hope will stay dormant until spring, when the weather gets warmer.

This method might work, but not always. It’s riskier than waiting until spring to put grass seeds, so it’s not something you should do.

If seeds stay in the dirt all winter, a warm spell could cause them to sprout too soon, which would kill them when the cold weather returned. Or, when it was rainy, they would end up rotting.

As you can see, it’s a gamble that is best NOT to take!

Wrapping It Up

Centipede grass seeds are some of the cheapest, but it will take some work to get them to grow into a good yard. So, the first thing you need to do is plan when to put the seeds so they can grow and sprout. If possible, you should start planting in early summer and avoid putting seeds when they are dormant.

Dracaena is a group of plants that are very pretty and are often grown as pets. But when we bring plants into the house, our pets sometimes think we’ve set up a salad bar for them. Dogs and cats don’t always know what’s good for them, so it’s important to know how dangerous it is if they eat your plants. Read on to find out more about what to do if your pet eats a dracaena.

Can Pets Eat Dracaena Plants?

No, is the short answer. Both cats and dogs can get sick from dracaena. Or rather, a chemical found in the plant called saponin makes them sick.

If a dog eats dracaena leaves, it might throw up (sometimes with blood, sometimes without), have diarrhea, feel weak, drool, lose its hunger, feel sad, and get depressed.

If a cat eats dracaena, it will have the same effects, and its eyes may also get bigger.

What To Do If You See Your Cat Or Dog Eating Dracaena

If your dog or cat is eating dracaena leaves, you should take them to the vet. The most worrying thing about dracaena poisoning in pets is the signs it causes.

When dracaena, a plant that is only slightly poisonous, is eaten, it can cause:

• Abdominal pain
• Depression
• Diarrhea
• Dilated pupils (cats)
• Excessive drooling
• Fast heartbeat
• Incoordination
• Stumbling
• Vomiting
• Weakness

The good thing is that it’s easy for a vet to treat, and your pet can get back on its feet quickly in a safe place. It’s better to be safe than sorry if you’re worried about your pet’s health. When a dracaena pet is poisoned, waiting it out can be very dangerous or even kill the pet.

Should I Get Rid Of My Dracaena Plants?

If you’ve had a dracaena plant for a long time and your pet has never bothered it, it’s probably fine where it is. If you’ve had trouble, though, you should put it somewhere your pet can’t get to, like on a high shelf or in a hanging basket. You could also keep your pet out of a certain room.

Treatment

At this point, you’re possibly asking yourself, “What will she have to go through to get better?”

That question actually has two answers. The first is about the poisons in dracaena, and the second is about the plant itself.

Even if the plant was safe, the leaves and roots would still make your pet’s stomach upset.

Intensive Fluids

If your pet has been throwing up for a long time, she might have lost too much water.

When a person is severely dehydrated, she may need to go to the hospital so that she can get electrolytes and water through an IV.

Induction Of Vomiting

If your cat ate dracaena leaves and is having trouble getting rid of them, your vet can make your cat throw up by giving it hydrogen peroxide.

Recovery

One of the most popular types of this plant, D. marginata, has been eaten by pets, but no one has heard of any deaths.

With the help of your vet, your cat or dog should feel better in about 24 hours after eating dracaena parts.

Once all the plant parts (leaves or bark) have been gotten rid of, either by mouth or through the bowels, the symptoms should go away.

Why Is The Dracaena Toxic To Cats?

Because it has saponins, the dracaena is on the ASPCA’s list of plants that are dangerous for both cats and dogs. Saponins are found in many plants, including soybeans, alfalfa, and quinoa. They get their name from soapwort plants, which are called Saponaria.

Saponins are good for the plant because they kill insects and fungus on their own. When eaten in small amounts, they aren’t as dangerous, but when eaten in large amounts, they can be poisonous. Saponins can be found in the roots, leaves, stems, and bark of the dracaena.

What Kind Of Treatment Will Your Cat Receive?

If your cat has only been poisoned mildly, the signs will generally go away on their own in 12 to 24 hours.

Depending on a few things, your doctor may need to treat the signs. If your cat got sick and lost a lot of fluids through drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea, your vet might give your cat fluids through an IV to help rehydrate it.

If your cat still has diarrhea and is throwing up, it is likely that it will be given medicine to stop it.

If your cat ate a lot of dracaena, your vet might need to pump their stomach or make them throw up to get rid of the plant. Activated charcoal could also be given to help get rid of the extra poisons.

How Do You Help Your Cat Recover?

Most importantly, you should give your cat time and place to heal. Make sure they are in a quiet place with as little stress as possible. Keep other animals or kids away from your cat, especially when it’s sleeping. When your cat comes to you for attention, make sure to pet and love on it.

What Parts Of The Plant Are Toxic?

There are chemicals called steroidal saponins in the leaves of these plants. It is one of a big group of compounds that are all dangerous.

Saponins are in a lot of foods and plants, like beans and spinach, but they don’t hurt people.

Conclusion

If you get rid of your poisonous plants, you can put in ones that are safe for cats. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) has a list of plants that are and are not dangerous. These are some examples of safe plants:

• Banana plant Spider plant
• Boston fern
• Baby tears
• Butterfly palm
• Zebra plant
• Peperomia

You can think about more than just these. Even though these plants are safer than dracaenas, you still don’t want your cat to eat them.

It’s possible that after the first time, your cat won’t want to chew on your dracaena. It will make them sick, and we know that our cats are (usually) smart enough to figure this out. Also, they don’t taste that good.

Your cat and dracaena might be able to get along well, but you might feel better if you only put plants in your house that are safe for cats.

Pollinators like going to the Butterfly Bush. It has flowers that look like lilacs, and many pollinators, like butterflies, love to visit the tight clusters of small flowers.

Butterfly bushes are prone to root rot, so they shouldn’t be placed in wet soil or with plants that need a lot of water, like hydrangea. A single Butterfly Bush bush can grow to be anywhere from 6 to 12 feet tall and 5 to 15 feet wide.

Looking for a plant that hungry deer won’t be interested in? This plant is perfect for you! Just check with those in charge of plants in your region, because Butterfly Bush can spread quickly in some places, mostly in the Pacific Northwest. But on the plus side, once it’s grown in, Butterfly Bush can handle drought, so it’s a good choice for xeriscaping.

Butterfly Bush is most famous for bringing in Swallowtail Butterflies, but it will also bring in bees, hummingbirds, and other pollinators. People have said that the Butterfly Bush stands for rebirth, recovery, and a fresh start. Other plants in the same Buddleja family (there are over 100 of them) have been used in Chinese medicine (it comes from China) to treat everything from eye problems to hernias.

(Note: Never put a plant product internally without first talking to an expert!).

What Is A Butterfly Bush?

The Butterfly Bush, which is also called Buddleja Davidii, is a pretty, fragrant plant that comes from China. Even though it is not linked to butterflies, many species of butterflies and other pollinators, like bees, love to eat the nectar-rich flowers.

It’s easy to take care of and can grow in bad soil. But it grows best in full sun and dirt that drains well. The butterfly bush is a great addition to any yard because of how many flowers it has and how nice its leaves look.

During the summer, lots of butterflies come to the butterfly bush. In fact, it’s not unusual to see dozens of them flying around the plants. The bushes can grow quite big, sometimes reaching heights of 12 feet or more, so it’s best to give them plenty of room to spread out.

Which Types Of Pollinators Do Butterfly Bushes Attract?

Pollinators like bees, monarch butterflies, and swallowtails are drawn to butterfly flowers because of how pretty they are. It also brings in small, beautiful birds like hummingbirds.

These pollinators go to the butterfly bush plants and a few other plants nearby and spread pollen. Deer and mice don’t like to eat butterfly bushes.

Why Should You Plant A Butterfly Bush?

You could choose a butterfly bush because of how pretty they are and how many different colors their flowers come in.

If you do this, your yard will become like a restaurant where insects that carry nectar, like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, will come to eat and pollinate your butterfly bushes and other plants.

Pollinators like bees would do their normal job of pollinating these butterfly bushes because they have a lot of juice that bees like.

Getting help from hummingbirds and butterflies would be a good idea, because all of these insects would work well together.

The Effect Of Bees On Butterfly Bushes

Butterfly bushes and bees go together like butter and jam. Pollinators are very important to a butterfly bush because they move pollen from flower to flower so the plants can make food.

Pollinators are important to a garden’s environment, so it’s important to give them a wide range of flowering plants to eat. Without bees, it’s possible that these beautiful shrubs wouldn’t be able to breed and would die out.

On the other hand, bees love butterfly trees because they give them a steady source of nectar all summer long. Bees and other pollinators can find shade from the hot sun in the bush’s thick growth.

Bees And Color

Because their eyes can only see blue, green, and UV light, red flowers look like green leaves to bees. UV markings on the petals or in the middle of red flowers that draw bees make them stand out.

These markings, which are undetectable to the human eye, guide the insects to the pollen or nectar on the plant. They work like the lights on the landing strips of an airport. Most bees will be attracted to butterfly trees with purple, violet, or blue flowers. Yellow or orange flowers are next best.

Bee-Attracting Cultivars

Butterfly bushes have flowers in colors that look good in any yard. “Blue Chip” (Buddleia “Blue Chip” LO AND BEHOLD) is a small, non-invasive plant with lavender-blue flowers that smell like vanilla. “Honeycomb” (Buddleia x weyeriana “Honeycomb”) is a bush that can grow up to 12 feet tall and has orange-eyed, butter-yellow flowers that turn heads.

Both plants can survive in USDA zones 5 to 9. “Bicolor” (Buddleia “Bicolor”) grows to be 6 to 8 feet tall and has flowers that are both peach-yellow and lavender-raspberry. It does well from USDA zones 6 to 9.

Keep The Flowers Coming

Since butterfly bushes only bloom on new wood, cutting them back to within 1 or 2 feet of the ground every year is the best way to get the most flowers. Where they don’t get cold, you can prune them at any time. Elsewhere, cut them back before they get leaves in the spring.

If you’re worried about frost, wait until warm, dry weather is predicted. If not, water that builds up in the hollow roots could freeze and split them. Between cuts, clean your pruning tools with a mix of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water to keep diseases from spreading.

Once it starts to bloom, pinch off the blooms that are getting old to keep it going. This method also stops unwanted types of burning bush from setting seed.

Bee-Friendly Pest Control

Buddleia budworms, which are the tiny green caterpillars of the Buddleia moth (Pyramidobela angelarum), are often found on butterfly bushes along the coast. They eat in nests that are made of new leaves sewn together. For pest control, pinch off the infected tips and throw them away.

Use an insecticidal soap that is safe for bees and applies it early in the morning or after dark, when bees are at home. Spray the soap on the worms until the branch tips drip with it.

The treatment only kills the worms it touches, so you may need to use it more than once at the times on the label to get rid of the problem. When handling soap, wear safety glasses, a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves, and a hat, and follow the directions provided by the manufacturer.

Butterfly Bush: Tips For Growing Vibrant Blooms

Is there anything happier than a butterfly bush with lots of flowers? People like these fast-growing shrubs because they have groups of bright flowers that butterflies, bees, and other pollinators like to visit. Even though butterfly plants are easy to take care of, there are a few things you can do to get the best results.

1) Plant Your Butterfly Bush In A Sunny Location.

To make a lot of flowers, butterfly bushes need at least six hours of full sun every day. Butterfly bushes do best in sunny places and will have the most flowers if they are placed there.

If you live somewhere where summers are hot, give the plant some shade in the afternoon to keep it from getting too hot. You might also want to plant your butterfly bush in a pot so that you can move it to the sunniest spot in your yard when you need to or to a spot with some shade when it gets too hot.

2) Water Your Butterfly Bush Regularly.

To get the most out of a butterfly bush, you should water it often. Even though the bush can handle drought, it will grow more if it gets watered regularly. Give your plant a lot of water, about one to two inches per week. You can also use a yard hose or sprinkler to water your butterfly bush.

3) Fertilize Your Butterfly Bush Twice A Year.

To grow and bloom well, butterfly bushes need about the same amount of soil as other plants. A balanced, all-purpose fertilizer can be used in the spring and fall of each year. Make sure to follow the directions on the package, and don’t give the plant too much fertilizer because that can hurt it.

Look for a fertilizer that is high in nitrogen when you want to feed your butterfly bush. Phosphorus encourages flowers to grow, so your butterfly bush will have a lot of them.

4) Prune Your Butterfly Bush Regularly.

Butterfly bushes need to be cut back often to keep their shape and make sure they stay healthy. Some types spread more than others and may need to be cut back more often.

After your butterfly bush is done growing in the spring, use clean shears or clippers to cut it back. Cut off any stems that are dead or too big, and shape the plant to your liking.

Do Bees Like Butterfly Bushes?: Final Thoughts

As the sun comes up and the bees leave their homes to find flowers, we can be thankful for the beauty and abundance of the butterfly bush. These beautiful plants give bees, butterflies, and other pollinators a place to live and people a feast of nectar.

Bees are very important for market crops like almonds, apples, and avocados because they help spread pollen. With this in mind, if you want to help the bees in your area, planting flowers that bees like is a great place to start, and the butterfly bush is a great addition to any yard.

The butterfly bush is a must-have for any gardener who wants to help the bees in their area. It is easy to grow and doesn’t bother wildlife.

Conclusion

Bees don’t have to avoid butterfly flowers. Because they have a lot of nectar, these butterfly plants are great for bees. The only problem is that bee and caterpillar eggs can’t eat butterfly bushes, plants, or leaves.

You should put some natural plants or shrubs around your yard to solve this problem. So that caterpillars and bee eggs would have something to eat so they could grow up and turn into bees and butterflies, which would help your beautiful butterfly bush plants reproduce.

Coleus is an easy-to-care-for plant with brightly colored leaves. It is usually grown as an annual in beds or pots in all USDA zones, but in zones 10 and 11, it can be grown as a perennial.

If you’ve ever thought whether or not deer like Coleus, the answer is usually no. Coleus isn’t harmful to most animals, so deer and other animals don’t usually eat it. Even so, if the conditions are right, deer and other wild animals will eat almost any plant.

About Coleus

When looking for information about coleus, yearly sellers often say that certain kinds of coleus are deer resistant. It is a little bit toxic, and deer don’t like the way they taste. But when I talk to real farmers who live in places where deer are common, they tell me that yes, deer will eat my coleus to the ground.

So deer don’t eat coleus because it tastes good or looks appealing? Then why do farmers say it gets eaten? When deer are eating your coleus, it doesn’t help me to say, “It’s deer resistant, case closed.” Let’s learn more about deer and why they might choose to eat a plant that isn’t very tasty.

Deer And Coleus

If you live in a place where deer aren’t common, you don’t have to worry about your coleus plant or the border of your garden’s greenery plants bringing deer from other places. So, the answer is no, coleus doesn’t bring deer into gardens. They usually stay away from this plant.

But tell the gardener whose coleus was eaten by a deer that deer don’t like it. It’s not that easy. Yes, your coleus could be in danger if you live in an area where deer are popular and they get into your garden. Not always, though. It will depend on a number of things.

Telltale Signs Of Deer Damage

Since deer don’t eat coleus very often, there isn’t much information about how deer hurt coleus plants. But there are a few signs that show if deer are to blame for the damage to your coleus plants.

Browsing

Deer don’t have upper teeth, so they have to tear leaves apart to eat. Deer have definitely been in your yard if the leaves are torn or the stalks are not even.

Antler Rubbing

Most people know that male deer rub their horns against trees. If you see vertical scrapes and shredded bark on your trees, it means that deer have been grazing on your land and may have eaten something from your yard.

Deer Tracks

Two to three inches long, deer tracks look like a broken heart. If you see these tracks in and around your yard, it’s possible that deer are hurting your plants.

Deer Droppings

If you really want to know what was in your yard, look for animal droppings. The droppings of deer look like the droppings of rabbits, except that they are often stuck together.

How To Keep Deer Away From Coleus

If you want to put coleus plants outside but find that deer in your area like to eat them, there are a few things you can do. Even though none of these things will stop deer for sure, they will help keep them from eating your garden.

Deterrent sprays: Most garden shops sell sprays that keep deer away from your plants. Most of the time, it’s made from oils that deer hate, like castor oil, and they’re easy to use. The only bad thing is that if it rains, you’ll have to spray it again.

Automatic sprinklers: Another good idea is to put a water sprinkler with a sensor near your coleus plants in your yard. When hungry deer come close, it will spray enough water to scare them away and keep your plants healthy.

Traditional deterrents: Try oregano or chives, or make a spray with garlic, jalapeo, and other strong-smelling ingredients. Also, Irish Spring soap smells bad to deer, so you can use shavings to keep them out of your yard.

Will Coleus Come Back After Deer Eat Them

If deer or other animals eat all of the leaves, the coleus probably won’t come back. The plant needs its leaves to do photosynthesis and store energy for the following year. Without leaves, the plant might not be able to grow back. If there are still leaves on the Coleus, it might grow back.

Will Deer Actually Eat Coleus?

Now for the hazy answer to the question, “Will deer eat my coleus?” Well, maybe, but most likely not. They might, though. Sorry, that wasn’t the answer you wanted. Here’s the deal: If you have a valuable coleus plant and want to put it outside but you have a lot of deer in your yard, you might want to test the waters first.

Put out a decoy coleus and watch to see if they eat it. If they don’t, that’s great, and you’re probably safe. If your coleus is a prized plant, you might want to keep it out of reach. But if you just want to add some coleus to your yard, give it a try and see how it goes.

Gardening is just a big game of try and see what happens. If deer do devour your coleus, it’s time to apply some deer deterring strategies. In the next part, I’ll give you some ideas for how to deal with the cute but dangerous creatures.

Does Coleus Grow Back After A Deer Eats It?

The leaves of a coleus plant are needed for photosynthesis and to store energy for the next year. If coleus loses its leaves, it probably won’t grow back. So, if deer or any other animal eats the leaves of a coleus plant, it won’t be able to keep growing.

Coleus, on the other hand, is easy to spread. If you are worried that deer will eat your coleus plants, you can protect them by putting a leaf cutting in water and then planting the cuttings that have grown roots.

Final Thoughts

Compared to other trees, coleus does stand up to deer. Because coleus is only mildly poisonous, deer don’t like it and rarely eat it. Simply put, deer don’t like the look of coleus leaves.

Just because two things look alike doesn’t mean they behave the same way.

Take clumping and running bamboo, for instance. Or chocolate chip and oatmeal raisin cookies, if you need a non-botanical example.

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Sure, both forms of bamboo provide an attractive aesthetic in the landscape.

And of course, both types of cookie have the appearance of a delectable dessert. But if you use one or the other from either pair interchangeably, you’ll be sorely disappointed.

Bite into an oatmeal raisin cookie expecting the taste of chocolate chip, and you’ll experience a mouthful of fiber and regret.

Plant a running type where you should have used a clumping type – or vice versa – and you’ll probably end up wholly dissatisfied.

I could rant about chocolate chip vs. oatmeal raisin all day, but for the sake of this guide and my blood pressure, let’s turn our attention back to clumping vs. running bamboo, and really break down their differences.

We’ll even start with some quick “Bamboo 101,” if you’re new to the Bambusoideae subfamily.

Your journey on the path of knowledge begins here:

A Brief Bamboo Primer

It’s hard to be a plant nerd on planet Earth without at least having heard of bamboo.

Even non-green thumbs probably know of these plants somehow, whether as a staple crop in Asian cultures or as a panda’s favorite food.

Belonging to the true grass family, i.e. the Poaceae, Bambusoideae is a subfamily of 1400-plus species of tall, treelike, and (mostly) evergreen perennial grasses, all contained within 115 or so genera.

Species of bamboo occur naturally on every continent save for Europe and Antarctica and grow in a variety of environments, from lowland riverbanks to cold mountains to island tropics.

Bambusoideae species come in practically all sizes. The smallest only reach four to six inches in height, while the giant, Dendrocalamus giganteus, is one of the largest species, with a maximum height of over 100 feet!

The woody stems of these plants, aka the culms or canes, are usually hollow between the ringed nodes, which sprout lateral roots and leafy shoots.

With an extremely rapid growth rate, culms reach their full height in their first growing season, staying slim all the while and never increasing their girth via secondary growth.

A new generation of culms emerges each year with increased size and thickness, leaving the entire colony looking larger and larger with each passing season.

New culms are created via shallow rhizomes, which allow the colony to spread far and wide.

A large grove may not be a bunch of neighboring specimens, but rather, the widespread mass of a single plant!

These rhizomes are super important – especially when comparing clumping and running types. In fact, it’s the rhizomes that primarily differentiate the two!

Clumping Bamboo

Clumping types behave exactly as their name would imply: their culms grow together in tightly-packed clumps.

As a result, clumping types don’t cover much real estate with their culms, and the territory that they do conquer is taken over very slowly: a mere couple inches per year.

Below the soil line, the pachymorph rhizomes of clumping types are thick and upwardly curved, and exhibit very little horizontal growth before jutting upwards to form a culm. As a result, they are generally deemed non-invasive.

What clumper rhizomes lack in horizontal expansion speed they make up for in vertical vigor, as clumping bamboo can grow upwards faster than running types.

Clumper rhizomes also expand slowly, but with great strength – they can compete with the roots of adjacent plants, crack containers, and inflict damaging pressures on nearby structures such as walls, fences, and walkways.

Clumping types grow in a somewhat circular shape, and tend to be narrower at their bases and broader towards their tops.

Clumpers can’t form wide-spreading screens like runners can, but they make up for it by forming incredibly dense ones, as their culms pop up right next to each other.

This density comes at a cost, though: when culms at the inside of the clump die, they can’t be reached for pruning without first removing outer, living culms.

If you opt to spare the outer culms and leave the inner dead culms alone, then the dead growth hinders the entire plant’s appearance, and could even become a weak spot for pests and pathogens to exploit.

Overall, clumping types aren’t as cold-hardy as running types, although there are mountainous clumping varieties that can handle the cold.

A clumper’s densely-packed form makes it the perfect selection for a specimen or accent planting, rather than a wide-spreading screen or border.

This should also be your choice when you have a limited amount of real estate for planting, or in cases where you don’t want the plant to spread far and wide. But be wary of structurally contained spaces – you wouldn’t want to cause any damage!

Running Bamboo

Now, let’s turn our attention to running bamboo!

While clumpers grow their culms closely together via thick rhizomes, runners have thinner leptomorph rhizomes that can run indefinitely before sprouting a new culm.

Clumpers may be able to form impressively dense specimens, but an entire grove of Bambusoideae? That would consist of running types.

Clumpers may grow upwards faster, but runners can spread several feet per year and fill in with greater speed than clumpers do.

They’re optimal for forming quick screens, groves, and hedges, and their root systems are even capable of erosion control.

Their rhizomes don’t expand as strongly as those of a clumper, which makes them less likely to crack their container, should you decide to go with a potted planting.

Runners are capable of growing in narrow areas, such as the thin strip of land between suburban properties. This makes them an ideal border screen for privacy.

Runners are more likely to grow out of bounds, given their extremely fast expansion rates, but each individual running rhizome is a lot easier to physically remove from the ground than clumper rhizomes are.

Regardless of which type you’re managing, you’ll have to be clever – clumpers tend to go through obstacles, whereas runners are quick to change directions if they run into resistance.

As running types offer a larger selection of species overall, it’s often easier to find a variety of running bamboo for your particular climate.

But some running species are listed as invasive in parts of the US, and therefore shouldn’t be considered.

Which Should You Use?

Personally, I’m a fan of easy decision-making, so here’s the simplified gist:

If you’re seeking…

• Dense culms
• Fast upward growth
• A slow spread
• A specimen planting
• An accent planting
• Non-invasive growing tendencies
• A circular growth habit
• A planting for limited, yet uncontained space

… then go with clumping specimens!

But if you’d rather have…

• Less dense culms
• A narrow border or screen
• Erosion control
• Fast horizontal expansion
• Easier removal
• More cold- and heat-tolerant options
• Container plantings
• A bamboo grove

… then you should choose a running specimen!

But not every “clumping or running” decision will be clear-cut.

There’s nothing wrong with consulting your local landscaping pros or more experienced bamboo gardeners for guidance.

Perhaps you can learn from their successes and save yourself some mistakes!

Put Some Bamboo in the Queue

I’ve been guilty of putting together some pretty atrocious queues, particularly when it comes to music.

Believe me, “having aux” on long road trips with friends is not a privilege I tend to hold onto for long.

But I’m confident in this claim: adding clumping and/or running bamboo to the long list of plants you hope to grow at some point would be a wise choice.

Now that you know what roles they’re best suited for, you’ll be able to enjoy them even more!

Have questions? Got remarks? The comments section is your oyster.

And for more information on growing grasses in your landscape, have a read of these guides next:

Ulmus spp.

Elm trees are some of the most majestic and resilient plants in nature. Their iconic features make them stand out amongst other species as a symbol of strength and fortitude.

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The elm is known for being a common tree throughout most of the US because of its ability to grow in a broad range of climates.

In fact, thanks to their reputation as strong and vigorous plantings, you can see them on display in places like the National Mall in Washington, DC and all over Central Park in New York City.

If you have ever been to a lush, green park almost anywhere in America, there is a good chance you have seen plenty of elm trees.

When I was in college, there was an open area with trees, including a bunch of elms to relax under.

I used to love it because I could sit there for two or three hours and study, eat my lunch, and listen to music on my discman – yes, I am that old – without ever having to move to stay in the shade on those warm, cloudless, southern California days.

Growing Ulmus species is a gratifying experience that will leave your landscape looking even more stunning than before, as long as you have the patience to let them grow.

So, if you want to add to the majesty of your yard or another area with a tree as glorious and dignified as the legendary elm, read on, and I will share my tips and tricks for getting the best results in growing these remarkable specimens.

What Is an Elm Tree?

An elm tree is a deciduous or semi-deciduous tree that belongs to the Ulmaceae family and the genus Ulmus.

The leaves are double-toothed and are often asymmetrical at the base. They turn a dull yellow in fall.

The tiny, inconspicuous flowers, which don’t have petals, come out before the leaves and grow in clusters on jointed stems.

The nut-like fruits or samaras are surrounded by a flat, sometimes hairy casing that looks like wings.

The bark tends to be dark gray with flat ridges that appear as if they were braided. Stems are smooth and brown.

Because of its hardiness, Ulmus species can be found around the world, with some varieties being more common than others. For this reason, we are going to stick to the basics with the more common types here.

You may want to also reconsider putting them too close to a house or sidewalk. They have been known to do some damage as they just keep growing and growing and growing!

Also, soil moisture should be closely monitored as they prefer well-drained soils with consistent water levels throughout the year.

With proper care and attention provided by your loving hands, elms can bring great beauty and longevity to gardens.

Cultivation and History

Elm trees have been cultivated for centuries and are known for their impressive beauty.

They’re popularly used in landscaping because they give so much shade with their large leaves, making them highly sought after on warm summer days.

One cool thing about elms is they also boast noteworthy medicinal uses – the bark of the slippery elm (U. rubra) has long been used to treat various ailments like fever and headaches, as well as gastrointestinal upset.

In many cultures worldwide, Ulmus species are seen as symbols of strength and longevity because they grow so quickly and last a very long time when well cared for.

The wood is popular for making furniture, and ironically enough, the handles of axes people use to…

… chop down other elm trees.

The versatility makes them great additions to any outdoor area.

In addition, controlled breeding programs all over North America have led to the creation of hybrid Asian elms.

All of these hybrid varieties have shown resistance to Dutch elm disease and are great choices for places where other trees won’t grow.

In general, these hybrids are smaller than their American relatives.

Propagation

Elms may be cultivated using various methods, including sowing seed, rooting cuttings, transplanting nursery saplings, and grafting. We’ll briefly cover all but the latter method here.

Giving these large, long-lived plants a healthy start is crucial. If done incorrectly, issues such as root rot may become problematic.

From Seed

Usually, you can collect the seeds (known as samaras) from the ground when they fall.

The seed is “winged” so it can travel as it glides through the air. These drop in mid-March in the southern US and in June in the north.

One of the great things about elm seeds is that you don’t really need to do much to them before planting. You can just let them dry out for a few days, then toss them back onto the ground and let them go!

Cover the seeds by a quarter-inch to half an inch with grit or compost, and tamp down firmly.

While they are simple to get going, you should ensure the ground stays wet for the first few days until they germinate, watering moderately every day or every other day.

In full sun with moist, fertile soil, you can expect to see young seedlings in as little as a few weeks after sowing.

The best temperatures for germination in late spring or early summer are 68°F at night and 86°F during the day.

But germination is nearly as good when temperatures range from 50 to 70°F. They can manage almost any moisture level, but extensive flooding can kill the seed off.

Some gardeners like to grow them in a pot for the first year or so before transplanting, so the seedlings won’t be damaged like little helpless babies. Be sure to provide the necessary care!

From Cuttings

Take cuttings from the point where two healthy branches of a mature specimen meet. Put the cuttings in water right away to keep them alive.

You want to take softwood cuttings, harvested in the spring when the new shoots are about three inches long. Cut at a 45-degree angle for best results.

Put a little rooting hormone on the cut end and put each cutting in its own pot filled with rich potting soil, or ideally a rooting cube. These are specifically designed for propagating cuttings, and often made of peat moss.

My personal favorite is made by Root Riot. They are made of composted organic materials, are ready to use, and are even pre-moistened!

Root Riot Rooting Plugs

Packs of 50 or 100 are available from Amazon.

If you use rooting cubes, place them in flats with a clear plastic dome on top to keep the humidity high.

You might like this starter set with deep planting cells, a solid base tray, and a humidity dome, available from Gardener’s Supply.

Deep Root Seedstarting System

Bright, indirect sun exposure is good, but you don’t want the flat to be in direct sun all day, or it might get too hot inside.

Flats or pots can also be placed about 12 inches below fluorescent or LED grow lights. Keep an eye on the soil moisture to make sure it doesn’t dry out.

In three weeks, check to see if any of the cuttings have started to grow roots.

Give the cutting a gentle pull upwards. If you feel resistance, it has likely taken root. If the cutting just falls out, it might need more time to start growing roots.

If it has wilted, it is likely dead or dying, and it probably won’t grow roots.

Transplanting

Elms transplant and become established fairly easily. Ideally, plant in rich soil with a pH of 5.8 to 8.0 in a location with full sun.

Transplant in late fall after leaf drop or in early spring to minimize the risk of shock. You will want to dig a hole that’s slightly more shallow than the root ball, so the crown sits slightly above ground level.

Water deeply on a regular basis until trees are well established.

How to Grow

Growing an elm tree takes patience, but seeing the full-grown tree years later is worth it.

As the saying goes, the best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago, so you are in for a wait. Ulmus species grow quickly in comparison to some trees, but they still take awhile to reach their mature height and spread.

Soil preparation is key to ensuring healthy, thriving trees. Before planting, make sure the soil is loose enough to easily absorb water and provide adequate drainage.

Choose a slow-release, granular fertilizer intended for use on trees, and with a nutrient blend such as 6-12-12 or 5-10-10 NPK.

These provide less nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium, so the trees won’t grow too quickly and become more susceptible to Dutch elm disease.

This type of fertilizer offers consistent nutrition over a longer period than liquid formulas.

A great option is BioAdvanced 12-Month Tree and Shrub Protect and Feed which is a slow-release fertilizer that only needs to be provided once a year in the fall.

BioAdvanced Tree and Shrub Protect and Feed

It’s available on Amazon in 10-pound packages.

You will want to fertilize the entire area under the canopy and extending six feet out. Apply fertilizer in the early spring when you start to see new growth emerging.

When caring for an elm tree, it’s important to pay attention to its physical appearance throughout the seasons.

Leaves turning yellow or droopy branches can indicate stress from insufficient nutrients, or too much/too little water, both of which need tending to quickly if you want your tree to thrive!

Careful watering schedules are essential. Without proper hydration, the chances of successful growth decrease drastically.

Watering should happen regularly and deeply during dry periods – especially in the summer. If the soil is dry several inches down, you should water. But established specimens can go a month or longer without watering and still stay healthy.

Mulching around the base of your tree helps to retain moisture and protects against weeds.

With these simple steps, you’ll be able to provide all that’s necessary for strong, healthy growth – just remember, patience goes hand in hand with gardening success!

Growing Tips

• Keep specimens well-watered the first year or two. Hearty once mature, they can be damaged much more easily while young.
• Plant away from structures, in an area with full sun.
• Provide well-draining soil with a pH of 5.8 to 8.0.

Pruning and Maintenance

Proper pruning and maintenance is essential to ensure health and longevity.

While some might think pruning is unnecessary due to their slow growth rate, promoting a strong branch structure in young specimens can be beneficial.

You will want to try to do most of your pruning during the height of dormancy in January to minimize shock to the tree.

Proper pruning should involve removing dead or damaged limbs and thinning out dense branch patches so air can circulate freely through the canopy.

Also, shortening overly long branches by cutting them back several inches below where they naturally break off will help create a much nicer shape in mature trees.

For larger branches over an inch and a half in diameter, use a three-step approach when making your cuts:

1. Make a notch cut into the underside of the branch about 12 inches away from the trunk.
2. Saw halfway into the branch until its weight causes it to break off.
3. Make a final downward slanted cut flush with the remaining stub.

This technique will prevent bark damage while minimizing sap loss associated with large pruning cuts.

You should also keep in mind that improper pruning can lead to disease or the death of your tree, while following these guidelines carefully will help you to benefit your trees with less risk of injury or harm.

With dedication and care, your elm tree will live a long life, providing beauty and shade for generations to come.

Species and Cultivars to Select

Selecting suitable cultivars for your area is an integral part of successful growth and maintenance.

When you have so many different types to choose from, it can be overwhelming to try to decide which one will best suit your needs.

But with some careful consideration and knowledge about grafting techniques, soil preparation, and climate considerations, you can make the right choice for your environment.

When selecting a variety, start by considering what space you have available and how much sunlight or shade that area receives throughout the day.

Then think about the type of soil in your yard and whether additional fertilizers or amendments may be needed to support healthy growth. Knowing this information ahead of time helps narrow down potential options.

Climate conditions should also play a major role in deciding on a species or cultivar. Temperature fluctuations, annual rainfall patterns, even wind exposure – all should meet certain criteria before planting begins to ensure success.

It’s always important to double-check USDA Hardiness Zones before deciding which variety to choose for yourself, but here are a few to consider:

American

Since most of our readers are Americans, many will want to choose the American elm (U. americana). This variety will grow all over eastern North America and is drought tolerant.

U. americana can grow to 130 feet tall and 60 to 120 feet wide.

American

This species is a favorite for those who want a strong, low-maintenance tree. You can purchase one from Nature Hills Nursery.

Chinese

The Chinese species (U. parvifolia) does well in western states like California.

‘Drake’

The ‘Drake’ cultivar of this species can be purchased through Nature Hills Nursery.

With a rounded shape and arching branches, this cultivar is evergeen in the south, with leaves that turn shades of yellow, red, or purple in northern Zones.

Cedar

The cedar elm (U. crassifolia) is popular in the south, especially in Texas.

One thing people love about U. crassifolia is how easily it grows in cities, because it is more resistant to pollution than many other trees.

Camperdown

Finally, another popular variety is the camperdown (U. glabra ‘Camperdownii’), a cultivar of the wych or Scots elm, which grows well in the UK and is fairly popular all over the region.

‘Camperdownii’

This variety also thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 through 7.

‘Camperdownii’ trees are available from Nature Hills.

Slippery

The slippery elm (U. rubra) is a deciduous tree native to central and southern US. The inner bark of this species is red, and is harvested for its use in herbal medicine.

These trees are highly susceptible to Dutch elm disease and are rarely available from nurseries.

If you want to learn more about slippery elm, check out our guide. (coming soon!)

Managing Pests and Disease

While many elm trees are known for their heartiness, they are not immune to the forces of nature, so you should try your best to take care of them.

Not watering properly, insects, and disease can destroy your beloved specimen faster than you realize.

First, it’s essential to identify any pests or pathogens that may be present.

Properly identifying pests as well as signs of bacterial or fungal infection, understanding their life cycles and times of year when they are the most prevalent, and taking the appropriate control measures is crucial.

Prevention is also vital – use appropriate treatments, such as insecticides, at the right time of year.

With the proper knowledge and techniques, you can help reduce the impact of pests and diseases on your trees.

Vertebrates

The elm doesn’t have much to worry about when it comes to damage from animals. That said, opossums, mice, and squirrels often eat the seeds.

Squirrels may pose a potential threat to elms, feeding on new growth at the branch tips.

Also, sapsucker woodpeckers have a great love of young specimens. They can cause permanent damage to the trunks and can be particularly harmful to smaller, young elms.

Insects

Elm trees are seriously threatened by one type of invasive pest: the bark beetle (Hylurgopinus rufipes). But several different species of beetles may also feed on the leaves.

In both its adult and larval stages, the elm leaf beetle (Xanthogaleruca luteola), which originated in Europe, feeds mainly on leaves. Even massive, mature trees are susceptible to total defoliation. These pests can also spread the fungi responsible for Dutch elm disease.

The Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica) is another foreigner that is a particular threat to elms.

In both cases, the beetles do a lot more damage in North America than in their native lands because there are no common predators as there are where they originally came from.

Systemic insecticides that can be put on the soil and then move through the trunk to the leaves where beetles feed are the best option to eliminate these pests.

Imidacloprid is the most common insecticide used for this purpose.

Compare-N-Save Systemic Tree and Shrub Insect Drench is an excellent option that is absorbed through the roots and attacks the beetles as they feed.

Systemic Tree and Shrub Insect Drench

It’s available on Amazon in gallon-size bottles of concentrate.

Disease

Dutch elm disease (DED), which is caused by the fungi Ophiostoma ulmi and O. novo-ulmi, is thought to be one of the worst diseases that can strike trees.

Infected specimens will initially wilt before eventually dying out.

The disease clogs the elm’s xylem or water-conducting system.

Thankfully, modern advances in cross-breeding have created more DED-resistant cultivars, but rarely is a tree entirely immune to the damage it can cause.

Elm bark beetles spread the DED fungus when they’re feeding, making it particularly difficult to fight off insect and disease threats simultaneously.

In addition, elm yellows is a disease that affects these trees, caused by bacterial phytoplasmas in a number of different groups. It is spread by leafhoppers or by grafting rootstock onto the trees.

Also called elm phloem necrosis, this is a disease that spreads quickly and has no known cure. This disease is commonly known to occur in the eastern half of the United States and in the southern part of Ontario, Canada.

Best Uses

One outstanding characteristic of the elm is its versatility.

Besides its usefulness in woodworking and carpentry products, it’s a favorite tree for ornamental horticulture that’s often used in landscaping to provide shade and aesthetic appeal.

Many elm varieties are drought- and pollution-tolerant, making them ideal for lining streets and medians.

And many types are grown in wildlife preserves to support a broad range of birds and other wildlife.

Also, elms are excellent for creating windbreaks in a yard to protect other plants and structures like buildings with windows in high-wind areas.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Deciduous and semi-deciduous trees	Flower/Foliage Color:	Various (inconspicuous); medium green, chartreuse (golden, yellow leaves in fall)
Native to:	Africa, Asia, North America, depending on species	Maintenance:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	4-9, (sometimes 3, depending on species)	Tolerance:	Drought, pollution
Bloom Time/Season:	Late winter-early spring (blooms/samaras), fall (color)	Soil Type:	Rich, loamy
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	5.8-8.0
Time to Maturity:	20-30 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	60-70 feet	Companion Planting:	Hosta, lily turf, periwinkle, Virginia bluebell
Planting Depth:	1/4-3/4 inch (seed), slightly more shallow than root ball (transplants)	Avoid Planting With:	Plants that need full sun
Height:	30-70 feet	Uses:	Shade, woodworking
Spread:	30-60 feet	Order:	Rosales
Growth Rate:	3-6 feet per year until maturity	Family:	Ulmaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Genus:	Ulmus
Common Pests and Diseases:	Beetles, carpenter worms, cankerworms, flea weevils, leafhoppers, sawflies, scale; black leaf spot, Botryodiplodia canker, Dutch elm disease, elm yellows, leaf scorch, root rot, wetwood	Species:	Americana, crassifolia, glabra, parvifolia, rubra, villosa

Nobody Has Nightmares on Elm Streets

Growing elms can be a rewarding experience for any tree lover, as they provide shade and beauty to any landscape. These majestic trees can bring life to an area with the right conditions and care.

A healthy elm can live for up to 300 years! That’s why taking good care of yours from the start is important.

By following our guidelines to plant and grow them correctly, you can enjoy their benefits for many generations.

Find out what others have to say about their favorite elm in the comments, or better yet, leave one of your own!

Looking for something a little different? Check out these guides to growing landscape trees next:

I WAS REMARKING to my friend Ken Druse earlier this spring about a garden I’d just visited, and how the stands of primulas in it made me jealous, and crave more, more, more. But only a few primrose varieties are even sold in local garden centers, and if you really want to create a dramatic swath of the diminutive plants… well, that would add up to quite an investment.

As I was ranting, my text buzzed to alert me there was a message, and there was a photo from Ken of a flat of his just-emerged primula seedlings—hundreds of them, that he’d successfully winter-sown outdoors. All for the price of a couple of seed packets. I asked him how he did it, and about other things you can sow that way.

Ken, who gardens in New Jersey (those are some of his Primula japonica in his canal garden, above), is the author of 20 garden books and also my co-host of the Virtual Garden Club that we put on a few times each year. He’s a master propagator who loves to crack the code of how to make more plants of any kind who shared the how-to’s of his success with primula seed and more winter-sowing experiments.

Read along as you listen to the May 29, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

primulas from seed, with ken druse

 

 

Margaret Roach: Hi, Ken, how are you?

Ken Druse: Oh, hi, Margaret. Is it spring? Is it summer? Is it winter? I’m a little confused.

Margaret: [Laughter.] I’m not even sure anymore. I give up. Is that a trick question? I guess so.

I said in the introduction that I was jealous when I went to this garden, I saw these just along the edges of beds, not hundreds, but a big strip of them here and there so that it caught your eye, because they’re little plants, generally speaking. So they look good in mass, right? And then when you showed me yours, oh my goodness, what’s going on over there?

Ken: [Laughter.] Mass, that’s a good word for it. Well, we see photographs of drifts and swaths and streams of color, and then you go to buy three plants and it’s $45 plus shipping.

Margaret: Right. Right. Exactly. Exactly [laughter]. Right. If you want 20 or whatever, let alone more, but…

Ken: You need more than 20.

Margaret: Yeah. I find sometimes they self-sow, but they’re not necessarily permanent, you know what I mean? They don’t stay put necessarily.

Anyway, let’s backtrack because we did a class, I don’t know, last fall maybe on winter sowing, and we talked about everything from native wildflowers to other perennials to vegetables even that people could winter sow, and that was really popular. This was kind of an offshoot of that. This is something that you’ve done with perennials before, and you also talked about a little bit in the class. How did you get these things going that you showed me these pots and pots and pots of in flats?

Ken: For years, usually I’d collect my own seed from my own plants and also try something, a packet of seed from Chiltern in England or Barnhaven in France, because it’s not easy to find the primula I want, which are the candelabra primula, and they go up to about 2 feet tall. They’re kind of showy. I usually grow them on the streamside, on the edge of the canal garden where it’s very moist.

But this year, I tried some in a very funny place, at the base of an oak tree, and they’re blooming their heads off. Took two years, which is not very long really for a hardy perennial. But I usually sow them in a flat of sowing medium, which I often cover with a little thin layer of grit. We’ve talked about grit. It’s like coarse sand. Well, it’s chicken grit.

Margaret: Kind of looks like bird-cage gravel, but it’s not. It’s poultry grit that you put out to help them digest their food if you had chicks or whatever, right?

Ken: Right. And then I’d have a flat, and then I’d cover the flat with either an inverted flat from the garden center that’s really open, the kind that has a lot of drainage, kind of a grid, and put a brick on that to hold it in place. Or this year, again, I built a cage out of hardware cloth [above]. And then I put it in a little bit of a shady spot, and that’s it. I did that in January, and then I didn’t even think about it until April.

Margaret: You say cage because Mickey and Chippie and everybody are going to look for seeds, right? Mickey Mouse I mean.

Ken: Probably with primroses they might not, but they disturb stuff. They want to go and bury something in my flat or something.

Margaret: It’s sort of like you’re animal-proofing it, in a sense, like we would do with any winter-sown crop, whether it was in January or later if we were doing our vegetables or something—protect it from the animals. You said in a flat, so you’re just using seed-starting mix and you’re putting it in a flat—it’s an open flat, not individual pots? What’s the deal in there?

Ken: Right. It’s an open flat, but these are all going to be almost the same seed.

Margaret: Oh, so it’s a whole flat of the same variety or species or whatever. O.K.

Ken: Because I had them and I can’t throw them away. I mean, I probably sowed hundreds.

Margaret: Let’s talk about that. I’ll be the psychiatrist. Why can’t you throw them away? No, I’m teasing [laughter]. I can’t either. I just found all these seeds. I don’t know what happened to me last year. Well, we had a droughty year and I ended up giving up on my second sowings of vegetables because it was too tough. I found a few packs of seeds that were a year old then and now are a couple years, and I was so frustrated at myself. I hate to throw anything away or waste anything.

Ken: That’s another show, I guess [laughter].

Margaret: Yeah, yeah. But at any rate, I was just teasing you. It’s an open flat because it was all one kind. But let’s say I want to do a little bit what I call community pots, if I wanted to do four different kinds.

Ken: Right. I do them in 3-1/2 inch pots. I did plenty of that, too. But this year, because of our classes and everything, I tried a couple of different versions of winter sowing. I did the flat with probably at least 200 primula seeds that I collected myself. We can talk about that, too.

And then I grew some things using the milk-jug method [below], which is very popular now. And I’m sure you’ve seen them even though you’re a vegetarian, but they have these rotisserie chickens at all the supermarkets and they come in this container that’s clear on top. It’s got a dome and has a little reservoir in the bottom that’s usually black.

I filled that with medium. Cleaned it, of course. Filled it with medium in that black bottom, and then covered it with the top. I made a lot of holes in the top so rain and snow could drip in. Once you moisten the medium, it pretty much stays moist the whole winter, as it’s not really drying in the wind or the sun. And then lots of drainage holes in the bottom. I also sowed seeds in that.

The jug method we’d have to talk about, but just sowing seeds in that rotisserie container, those were the seeds that sprouted first.

Margaret: Oh, interesting. It was like a little greenhouse that they were in.

Ken: Exactly. It was warm.

Margaret: Right. After.

Ken: These are all hardy plants that need that cold or want the cold.

Margaret: So basically you’re simulating in a protected environment. You’re not even simulating, you’re letting them have the winter they’d have in their natural state, but you’re protecting them from animals and sowing them all in one spot and not having someone dig them up and so on and so forth.

Ken: Right. No lights. No electricity. No watering. No worrying. That is great.

Margaret: Right. This is great for a lot of perennials. And as I said earlier, when we did our, last fall I think it was, when we did our winter-sowing class online—which I bet we’ll do again because it was so popular, it was fun to; great questions and stuff from people that got us both learning a lot more—but this is a great way to start not just native meadow perennials and so forth, which you could collect seed of and then make more, more, more, but also other perennials, non-native and so forth. It’s a great way to start a lot of perennials that need that winter outdoors, but controlling it like this, protecting the seed from animals and just doing it in a more orderly manner.

Ken: Well, it was a massive success [laughter].

Margaret: You said you sometimes collect your own seed as opposed to buying it at Barnhaven or Chiltern, whatever. Your primulas, have they gone by and are you now collecting seed from them…

Ken: No, they’re still blooming. These are the first set that bloom, which are the Japanese primula. They’ll make a whorl of flowers, if you can picture an umbel kind of thing. Then they shoot up a stem from the center of that that goes about 2 or 3 inches and they make another whorl, and then they do it again. They have these tiers of flowers and bloom for probably, depending on the weather, six weeks or so, maybe longer. And then each one of those little flowers turns into a fruit.

People think of fruits, fruits have to be moist. But anything that has a seed is a fruit. I guess corn’s are fruit because those are seeds, too, but we don’t think of that as a fruit. Of course, tomatoes are fruit. These are dry fruits. I guess, if you had a pod with beans or something and it was dry, that’s a fruit.

Margaret: You’d collect those.

Ken: If I don’t do this, I lose them, because they split open and drop their seed. So before they can do that, I cut the whole stem of several plants. And I’ll invert them in a brown paper bag or a paper bag and tie them together perhaps. And then when they split open, the seeds fall into the bottom of the bag. If they’re really green, I put the bag in a place where there’s good air circulation. I actually hang it on a coat rack in an airy place.

Margaret: That’s so funny because that’s what I used to do with a lot of my stuff, too, is I would hang it. I had pegs in my mudroom.

Ken: Actually it’s on pegs, actually.

Margaret: I’d hang the bag from the pegs. I’d put a clip on it or something [laughter].

Ken: I staple some string.

Margaret: Yeah, exactly. That’s funny. I’d walk in the mudroom and I’d be like, yep, there they are, dry; the seeds are drying.

Ken: And then when it’s time, which is late December, you just tip a bag and they’re all there. There’s hundreds. I think each of those fruits must have, I don’t know, 30 or 40 seeds in every single one. There’s really like a thousand seeds, which I don’t need a thousand seeds. And then I try to store them sometimes. If you have to store them, you should store them in the refrigerator [in an airtight jar]. But I put them in an envelope, label it with the date and who they came from. Maybe I’ll separate the colors, because the Japanese ones go from white to dark red.

They’re sort of mixed up. If I have a white one, I’ll put the white one in a bag separately, and I label them, and then I’ll sow them like I did this year. I didn’t know they were all going to come up. They’re all up. They’re the kind of seeds that resent being moved, so I have to learn more about that. They’re all O.K., but I think I should be more patient and let them get bigger before I move them.

Margaret: Just like when we’re sowing lettuce, if we’re doing it and we’re going to prick off or divide the thickly sown whatever it is in our individual pots, for instance, let alone in a big flat, we’re going to divide them and transplant them—you’re going to pot them on to larger containers. You’re not going to put them outside at this tiny little stage.

Ken: Well, they are outside now.

Margaret: The flat is outside. What I meant was into the ground.

Ken: I’ll do what we’re saying, which is to… I’ll get a little 3-1/2-inch pot with medium, and I’ll put four little seedlings in that pot, and that’ll stay outside.

Margaret: Right, but not in the open garden. Not in the open garden.

Ken: Not in the garden yet. Not in the garden soil or anything. And also right away, I wouldn’t put it in the sun, but you don’t have to go through the whole hardening off process because they’ve been outside. You don’t have to worry about wind and even sun to some extent, because that flat never came indoors, n,ever was really warm.

Margaret: Was the cue for when to pot them on four into a little pot, from this big flat of 9 million of them, was the cue… Did they send up some kind of special-looking leaves? Or was there a size, or was it just they were getting crowded? Was there a trigger that you knew?

Ken: Well, I did what I always do, which is I waited for the first true leaves. Because the first leaves that come up, two little leaves come up and they’re seed leaves and they’re usually roundish. And then the next set of leaves resemble what the mature leaves will look like, but they’re very tiny. I moved quite a few of them then and it was not so successful, because I lost quite a bit of them.

They just were too young, too tiny, and they didn’t like it. And since then, I read something from Barnhaven Primroses, which is a nursery in France. They used to send plants, but now they only sell seed to people in the United States, but they said not to move them so young. Now I know, but I didn’t move that many. They’re going to be really crowded and thick. I’ll read some more and maybe I’ll talk to them. Maybe I have to leave them for winter in the flat or something, but I’ll find out.

Margaret: You’re talking about Primula japonica, the Japanese primula. Have you done other primulas or other perennials in this manner?

Ken: I love the Chinese… I guess they might be Himalayan primroses, which are also the candelabra type with the tiers and everything. They bloom later and the colors are so magnificent, but I’ve hardly ever had good luck with them. I’ll have them for two or three years. Something will happen. I think it’s too warm here. It’s not exactly the Himalayas where I am [laughter].

Margaret: No, it’s New Jersey, Ken. You live in New Jersey, not the Himalayas.

Ken: But there’s beesiana and bulleyana. And then the most incredible is a hybrid of those two, which is bulleesiana.

Margaret: I was going to kid you and say, “Is it called something like bulleesiana?” I always thought that was a joke.

Ken: Nope. It’s bulleesiana. Did you ever go to North Hill and see the primroses there? The [former] garden in Vermont?

Margaret: A long time ago. Very long time ago. Yeah.

Ken: They have in Vermont. Okay, Vermont, that’s colder. Their primroses are at the base of a hill. Just like you have a base of a hill, so all the moisture drains down to them and they’re just magnificent.

Margaret: I even like just the basic one. I just like the cowslip. What is that, Primula veris [above], I think or something?

Ken: Yeah, Primula veris.

Margaret: Or oxlip.

Ken: Well, oxlip is a different species. It’s elatior, the oxlip. Veris is the cowslip. I love cowslips. But I’ve heard that they take a long time from seed.

Margaret: Oh, interesting. Interesting.

Ken: You’d think they’re the easiest. You know the ones in the supermarket in March, those little short ones that are sometimes called polyanthus?

Margaret: Yeah.

Ken: A lot of those are hardy, too. I’ve planted some of those and they bloom for months, some of them, and some of them come back year after year, and then they don’t. They’re short-lived. There’s some red ones I’ve had now probably for four or five years. They’re inexpensive. The yellow ones are fragrant. And then if you go to the box store as the flowers are fading, they’d throw them out so you can get them half price before they throw them out [laughter]. But anyway, I digress.

Margaret: You could go to the supermarket. You could get a rotisserie chicken. You could get some primulas. You could then recycle the chicken that when the primulas have seeds, you could make babies of those… O.K., I get it.

Ken: You don’t pot up the chicken and you don’t eat the primula seeds.

Margaret: O.K., good.

Ken: Those primulas seeds are like the size of poppy seeds. They are really microscopic. But the bulleyana, beesiana and x bulleesiana [below, at Ken’s] from Yunnan, China, at elevations of 6,000 to 11,000 feet, sometimes 18,000 feet I think, I try them every year. They come up and I coddle them, and then they bloom in their second or third year, and then they disappear. But the colors are just incredible. I don’t even know how to describe them, just from beige to ruby red to purple, all different colors. But when they bloom, the japonicas, the first ones, are over. They take over.

Margaret: So you could collect some seeds as you have in the past from your own primulas. Are there other things from the spring garden and then the early summer garden that as the season progresses and those things set seed that you have collected and had good success with it where you used this type of a method, this winter sowing, outdoor, no lights kind of thing? Are there other perannial things to winter sow?

Ken: I can’t think of something right offhand, but I like what you said about the meadow plants.

Margaret: Well, definitely, and that’s late-summer and fall collecting and then sowing once it gets cold. Those are classic. A lot of them are pretty easy. That’s great. I’ve done the collecting and drawing in the paper bags and all that with things like my annual poppies and so forth, but I haven’t done a lot of perennials. That’s what I was just curious whether…

Ken: I’ve done done poppies, too, now that you mention it. Some of those sort of meadow plants like Bidens, which is a composite type of like a daisy, and Rudbeckia, things like that. Some of the early spring stuff are either hard… Well, it’s different, because a lot of those really early plants are sown by ants and beetles [laughter]. A lot of them take two years to germinate. It’s a little trickier.

I used to pay so much money for hellebores, and then I would collect the seed, sow the seed in the flat, like we’re talking about. I know they take two years, so I would just leave them just like your Eranthis. It’s almost the same. It’s a little bit tricky, but then they’re sowing themselves under the leaves.

Margaret: Right. To me, it’s easier to let mama plants sow itself alongside itself, and then I pick up the babies and I put them in a seedling flat.

Ken: Well, they’re not quite as precious as some of these primroses.

Margaret: No, no, absolutely.

Ken: I mean, the Japanese ones are beyond precious. They can even be a little bit aggressive. But of course, the ones I want the most are the hardest to grow. I don’t have to baby them, but I have to keep my eye on them because, as I said, they’re precious. Even talking to you, I think I have some new ideas.

Margaret: I mean, what we’re saying is, and we’re using the term winter sowing, and clearly it’s not winter, although we were teasing at the beginning about what the heck season it is since the weather changes every day and we both had a big hard freeze last week and so forth. But basically this is the time to figure out what you do want to do. Because if you want to collect Primula seed or you want to collect whatever, poppy seeds, whatever it is, it’s the time to be looking, keeping an eye out so it doesn’t spread its own seed wherever it feels like it, where you can get it in that paper bag.

It’s also time if you’re going to order from France in England and so forth, or wherever, like from Chiltern Seeds or from Barnhaven Primroses. I think Plant World Seeds, they have different primroses.

Ken: They do. They don’t have bulleesiana, but they have the… Well, they might too, but they have beesiana and bulleyana.

Margaret: There are sources. Go look, see what you want to identify to get, because sometimes things get sold out closer to the time of when they need to be sown, right?

Ken: Right.

Margaret: It’s good to be prepared and to also then plan to get some rotisserie chickens so you can have your equipment [laughter].

Ken: I have my one little rotisserie chicken container.

Margaret: That’s funny.

Ken: By January the seedlings will be out of it, I think.

Margaret: That’s funny.

Ken: We don’t need a whole lot of those.

Margaret: No, no, no. Just in the last few minutes, I mean, I just wonder, anything else that you’re propagating at this time? Is this a time when you do cuttings? Or is there anything else going on, or not this year? Are you doing a lot of dividing?

Ken: I’m doing a lot of air layering.

Margaret: Oh my goodness! What the heck [laughter]?

Ken: I know you know.

Margaret: But with what? What are you air layering, which is a method of propagation? What are you air layering?

Ken: Usually when damages the bark of a woody plant, a slender shoot, if you want to attempt to make more. And then you can take something like sphagnum moss, and you moisten that completely, and you wrap it around this wound that you make. Actually, you can remove the bark and sort of the strip around the whole thing. And then you cover that with the wad of sphagnum moss, and then wrap that in plastic and tie it at the top and tie it at the bottom like one of those candies [above].

Margaret: It’s like a bandage. It’s like a bandage with this padding inside and moisture.

Ken: With a lot of padding. Right. Like a good handful. And then in the case of outdoor woody plants, you forget it. You go away, because it’s going to take probably six months. You could even leave it through the winter.

But there’s a few things around here that people have admired. It’s not easy to propagate woody plants, trees especially. These are trees that you couldn’t even get seed from because they’re very unusual. I’m going to see what happens.

Margaret: You’re trying some air-layering experiments.

Ken: Right. I’m doing with woody hydrangeas, like paniculata. That’ll definitely work. And with a mulberry tree, which will also work. It’s a mulberry that’s variegated and extremely rare, even though it’s not hard to grow. The variegation is just wild. Well, if I can give the plant away that’s very rare, and something happens to mine. And boy, this has happened. I know that plant still exists; I might even be able to get some back some year.

So I’m just trying in a few things in the garden, and also with a couple of houseplants that have been admired, like philodendron that have very thick stems. I’m doing the same thing, and then the aerial roots. I know you’re running out of time, huh?

Margaret: Yep. Well, because the mad propagator, you have to get back to your babies anyway.

Ken: I know. You get me so excited.

Margaret: Well, no, I’m glad that I asked. I didn’t know about the air layering. It’s a subject for a whole other show. Thank you, and I’ll talk to you soon.

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Amsonia spp.

Wherever it is in the garden, Amsonia (aka blue star) will hold interest.

In bloom or not, this sun-loving perennial stands tall and hardy in most conditions, and while it produces thick and vigorous clumps, it rarely becomes an invasive annoyance.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

All in all, if you can grow blue star, you should! Here’s a handy look at everything we’re about to cover up ahead so you can  pinpoint what you’re looking for:

If anything were to offer some competition with my love of gardening, it’s fantasy worlds and stories.

I have an absurd affection and appreciation for magical settings and tales, and when those worlds collide it’s a wonderful thing.

Wild and weird plants are my favorites, and Tolkien’s vast and tediously detailed setting of Middle Earth is at the top of the pile.

So when I first saw Amsoniamany years ago, I thought immediately of the impromptu poetry Samwise Gamgee puts together in the aftermath of Gandalf’s death in Moria:

The finest rockets ever seen

They burst in stars of blue and green

Or after thunder, silver showers

Came falling like a rain of flowers

Talk about a looker of a plant! A tall and almost spindly specimen growing up about three feet in height topped with a periwinkle spray of flowers.

It seemed like something every hobbit would grow in their garden, and every hobbit loves gardening, so obviously The Shire would be densely covered in amsonia, right?

I love lots of plants but they’re all my favorites in different ways, and for different reasons. Amsonia gives me a sweet taste of nostalgia every time I see it.

If you didn’t know gardeners could be nerds too, well, here’s the proof. But enough about that. What is this funky looking plant that makes grown men dream about hobbits and wizards?

What Is Amsonia?

Blue star is a native perennial plant that grows upright in tight clumps.

Its original range is the eastern United States so it’s a great fit for those “Beast Coasters” who love native gardens. But it will happily grow on the West Coast (Best Coast?) as well.

There are about 20 species in the Amsonia genus, all with similar flowers.

The most commonly cultivated species is A. tabernaemontana but you may also find A. ciliata, A. hubrechtii (aka Arkansas blue star), and A. illustris.

It usually attains about three feet in height but I’ve seen a few healthy and happy gardens supporting four-foot-tall plants.

A thin and narrow stem supports dozens of leaves running the length of the plant. At the top is a cluster of star-shaped flowers that transition into seed pods after they’ve finished blooming.

These perennials require full sun to be at their best but they can grow in other conditions. If yours aren’t getting lots of sun they will likely need to be staked to prevent flopping over.

This relatively hardy addition to the garden works in almost any design. It prefers never to dry out and this can limit its planting companions and placement.

But in the right conditions? Forget about it. Amsonia will grow happily with a bare minimum of care and offers about three and a half seasons of interest.

Propagation

Once established, blue star grows into a healthy plant, but it never becomes an aggressive feature in the garden.

It can spread via seeds but produces an easily identified seedling that can be yanked out of places it’s not supposed to be.

From Seed

You can either purchase seeds or collect them directly from a plant near the end of summer.

My best gauge for knowing when to harvest amsonia seeds is based on how I’m feeling about the summer heat.

You know the very end of summer when fall is right around the corner, but it’s still hot at night and you’re just about melting for that cool autumn weather?

That’s my personal barometer for when I want to harvest seeds from plants like amsonia.

Once the flowers have faded, allow the seed pods to dry on the plant before collection.

Amsonia seeds need to be cold stratified before planting. If you have purchased seeds, check your seed packet to determine whether or not they have been cold stratified.

You can keep the seeds in some damp compost in your refrigerator – they need at least three weeks with temperatures ranging from 30 to 40°F.

After they have been cold stratified, prepare your containers or seed trays. Fill with a good seed-starting mix, and sow three or four seeds per cell in a seed tray.

If you’re using individual containers, sow four seeds in a four-inch pot. I wouldn’t recommend planting amsonia seeds in anything larger than a four-inch container.

Cover with a thin layer of soil, and water with a mister or spray bottle to avoid dislodging them. Maintain even moisture in the soil while you wait for the seeds to germinate.

If you have the space for it, you could also sow seeds directly outdoors and let Mother Nature take care of the cold-stratification process. Give them a light covering of soil and keep them protected from dripping rooflines and strong winds.

It can take 10 weeks for the seeds to germinate, so once sprouts appear, celebrate! Watch your little seedlings stretch and grow, and look for the strongest plant growing in each cell or container.

Once the seedlings have developed their third set of true leaves, snip the weaker-looking seedlings, leaving a single strong seedling in each cell of the tray or four-inch container.

Layering

Amsonia readily transplants itself, if you can believe it.

When a stem gets knocked down by an errant footfall or some carelessly piled mulch, it will begin to take root where the woody stem is touching, or buried in, the ground.

After a few weeks you can use a pair of pruners or a sharp knife to separate the new plant from the original one, then dig up and transplant the new little fella to a new home.

By Division

If your blue star is large and looking a little rough and beat-up, we’ve got good news.

You can divide your amsonia! In either early spring or any time in the fall, you can dig up your blue star from its home.

Break away some soil from the roots so you can see what you’re working with. Use a sharp blade or a sturdy pair of pruners to cut it into sections.

Plant the divisions where you like in your garden – or give them to your friends and neighbors – immediately after dividing.

Give them a good drink, and give them another drink every few days for about a week. If it’s very warm or dry when you transplant you can stretch this supplemental watering out over two weeks.

Transplanting

Amsonia can be found in garden centers and it is as easy to plant as any other perennial.

The stems can be a little sensitive to damage and rough handling, but besides exerting a bit of extra caution when handling the plant, you don’t need to worry about any special needs.

Containerized blue star ready for planting.

Dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the root ball of your plant. Pop the plant out of the container and break up the bottom inch of soil.

If the plant is very rootbound you should work to untangle the roots; you can simply slice the root ball with a garden knife to tear the roots up.

Mix some of the soil in the pot with the soil from the hole you dug.

Pop the root ball into the hole and backfill with soil. You want the top of the rootball to be slightly higher than the surrounding soil.

Your blue star will naturally settle a little lower, but these plants can have a difficulty getting established if they’re positioned too low at planting time.

How to Grow

This is a plant that wants to be left alone after it is planted, minus a little maintenance in late winter or spring and some regular watering.

Keep it watered well, don’t fuss with fertilizers, and keep an eye on any local competition from weeds or other more aggressive plantings.

Aim for your amsonia to receive about an inch of water every week, increasing or decreasing watering based on how dry or wet the weather has been.

A Light Feeding Is Plenty

Should you fertilize your amsonia plants? That’s a good question.

In my experience, plants like blue star don’t need or even benefit from regular applications of fertilizer. A yearly dressing of compost or well-rotted manure is all these guys need.

I layer the area around the plant with about a quarter-inch of compost. Too much food, and blue star grows leggy and floppy.

Two exceptions I think are worth mentioning are when you’ve just divided your plants, or when your transplants are starting to show really promising growth.

At this stage, I’ll give the plants four half-strength applications of a water soluble fertilizer over the course of the growing season.

If the fertilizer recommends two scoops per gallon of water, I use one scoop per gallon of water.

This has been my preferred feeding method when working with transplanted perennials and it has consistently provided the most reliable results.

Soil and Climate Needs

Amsonia likes as much sun as you can throw at it.

I’ve seen this used as plant material in the grassy sections of highway on- and off-ramps, and the healthiest and happiest amsonia I ever saw was used as a filler plant in a sun-baked meadow.

It can grow in partial sun, but blue star tends to really reach for the light in these conditions and it’s likely to require staking or some other kind of support.

As far as the quality of soil, this plant isn’t particularly picky, but it does not tolerate drought for long periods of time.

Amsonia is happiest when it’s getting water regularly, so while it will grow in a variety of conditions, it really seems to favor more loamy soil that retains moisture without turning swampy.

It isn’t a very aggressive plant. Although it can really take off when it is established, it can be easily pushed out by stronger competition or invasive neighbors.

This is why I think amsonia is best in mass plantings where it can grab hold of a few square feet to really establish itself.

Keep up with the weeding while the plants are young to minimize competition while they become established.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun.
• Keep the plant regularly watered.
• Keep more aggressive growers on the other side of the garden because amsonia doesn’t compete well.

Maintenance

Amsonia requires very little maintenance. It can really be left alone entirely if you like a less formal and more natural garden. The new growth will work its way through the old before long.

Blue star has few issues with pests of any kind so it isn’t likely to be infested and hold onto pests from the previous year.

That means you have little to worry about in terms of end-of-season cleanup to manage unwanted insects.

But if you prefer a more tidy look, that works! Cut back your amsonia in the late fall or in mid spring.

Here’s my personal barometer at work again: I cut back plants like blue star when it’s muddy out and the air is refreshingly brisk.

Species and Cultivars to Select

In addition to the species plants, a number of hybrids and cultivated varieties are available. Here are a few of my favorites:

Blue Ice

A. tabernaemontana ‘Blue Ice’ features deep blue buds that open up into cute, periwinkle blue star-shaped flowers.

‘Blue Ice’ reaches a mature height of 12 to 16 inches, with a spread of 18 to 24 inches. In fall, the deep green foliage transforms to bright yellow.

‘Blue Ice’

You can find ‘Blue Ice’ available from Nature Hills Nursery in #1 containers.

Starstruck

‘Starstruck’ is a hybrid cross between A. tabernaemontana and A. rigida.

Introduced to market by Walters Gardens, in Michigan, this cultivar features an upright and rounded growth habit, reaching 20 inches tall and up to 36 inches wide.

The clusters of light blue flowers are offset by olive green foliage that turns yellow in the fall.

‘Starstruck’

You can find plants in #1 containers available from Nature Hills Nursery.

String Theory

A. hubrichtii  ‘String Theory’ is an Arkansas blue star cultivar, also bred by the pros at Walters Gardens.

With pale blue flowers and an upright, dense habit, ‘String Theory’ achieves a height of 18 to 22 inches and a spread of 32 to 36 inches.

‘String Theory’

The deep green foliage transforms to bright orange come fall.

You can find ‘String Theory’ available at Burpee.

Managing Pests and Disease

Pest issues are rare, so it’s unlikely that you’ll have to deal with any type of insect infestation.

Blue star produces a toxic white latex, and it is naturally resistant to critters. While a hungry deer or rabbit (or sasquatch, we can’t forget them!) will eat anything when it’s really hungry, amsonia is at the bottom of the list.

There is an interesting interaction to note with a butterfly known as the coral hairstreak (Satyrium titus). The larvae have developed a resistance to the toxic liquid produced by amsonia and these caterpillars can consume the plant without harm.

But hey, that’s okay! We love milkweed for feeding and housing monarchs, so let’s give the coral hairstreak’s relationship with amsonia a little love too.

As for pathogens, it does have a tendency toward issues with rust.

Rust is a familiar sight in the garden and is easily identified by its rusty appearance on plant leaves and stems. The best cure for this fungal disease is to wait it out until late fall, then do a diligent garden cleanup.

Remove and destroy all infected foliage and dispose of it in the trash – don’t compost it. Give the area a nice cleaning with a rake or leaf blower, and that’s it.

Best Uses

Amsonia is really at its best when it’s planted en masse, in large clusters.

Individual plants in a busy garden are lovely and very appealing as specimens, but blue star really thrives when you can dedicate a larger chunk of your garden to it.

It has the perfect texture for adding some soft lushness to a planting area, and helps round out straight edges in a garden while accentuating the curves found in informal gardens.

I’m a huge fan of heuchera, and pairing it with blue star is a match made in heaven.

I’m trying to encourage my uncle to grow a short amsonia hedge at his humble lake cottage to use as a polite border with the neighboring property. It pairs extremely well with ornamental grasses and low shrubs too.

One property where I worked had created an “edible meadow” featuring a variety of berries and fruits mixed in with ornamental perennial plantings.

Amsonia always looked perfectly at ease with the wild berry vines and I think they’re a great pairing, even if it’s unconventional. There were some fig trees in that meadow, too, and amsonia seemed quite happy clustered around those short trees.

In the fall, amsonia develops this stellar orange color that practically glows in the right light. It’s an excellent choice in your garden if you only use it for that autumn foliage and nothing more.

I’ve seen it paired well with other meadow perennials like black-eyed Susan and echinacea, and even one unusual design that utilized yellow- and red-twig dogwood with Solomon’s seal and ajuga.

I wish I had an opportunity to collect photographs from that garden, but the owner was politely firm about maintaining his privacy and didn’t allow pictures to be taken. What a shame!

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Perennial flower	Flower / Foliage Color:	Periwinkle blue/light, airy green (summer), honey-yellow (fall)
Native to:	United States	Tolerance:	Poor soil, part sun, some drought
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-9	Maintenance:	Low
Bloom Time/Season:	Late spring	Soil Type:	Loamy
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Spacing:	24-36 inches	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	¼ inch (seeds), same depth as root ball (transplants)	Attracts:	Pollinators, coral hairstreak butterfly
Height:	1.5-3 feet, 4 feet or more in ideal conditions	Uses:	Beds, borders, meadows
Spread:	1.5-3 feet	Family:	Apocynaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Genus:	Amsonia
Common Pests and Diseases:	Aphids; rust, root rot	Species:	Ciliata, hubrichtii, illustris, rigida, tabernaemontana

The Amsonia Ambrosia

We’ve taken a gander at this pretty, easy-to-grow native perennial, and talked about its general resistance to disease and pests.

Now you’re well equipped to get started growing blue star from seed, or plants you purchase at the garden center.

We’ve also talked about my unabashed affection for the Lord of the Rings, and my personal barometer for gauging when to do what in the garden.

It works, I tell ya!

Are you growing amsonia? Let us know in the comments section below and feel free to share your photos!

And for more information about growing flowers in your garden, check out these guides next:

Impatiens hawkeri

Impatiens are incredibly, amazingly popular. I challenge you to walk into a nursery or home goods store during the spring or summer and not find at least one flat of them.

But these plants are primarily used in shaded areas, leaving sunny spots out of the game.

And then there’s the whole downy mildew situation. In some areas, it’s a matter of when, not if, your impatiens will be decimated by the rapidly-spreading disease.

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Enter New Guinea impatiens. They look similar to the species we’re familiar with, but they’re impervious to downy mildew.

Plus, they grow well in full sun. They look similar to one another, but the New Guinea species is larger overall, with larger leaves and flowers.

There’s much more to know about these floriferous marvels and we’ll discuss all the goods, coming up. Here’s what we have in store:

New guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri) aren’t as common as their close relatives, ornamental impatiens (I. walleriana), but they’re rapidly gaining in popularity.

That’s because, as we mentioned, they’re resistant to the downy mildew menace that is decimating common impatiens.

But they also have larger flowers, bloom for a good long time, are self-cleaning, and can adapt to full sun or full shade, if given the water they need.

Cultivation and History

New Guinea impatiens were introduced into the North American commercial market in 1972.

Since then, they’ve grown in popularity and have been used to hybridize with common impatiens to create sturdier plants.

As their name suggests, they originated in Papua New Guinea in hot, humid forests. People there have been cultivating these flowers for centuries.

Specimens collected by Lieutenant J. D. Hawker of the Royal Navy were sent to the Adelaide Botanical Garden in Australia in 1884 by Richard Schomburgk.

Schomburgk, the curator of the botanical garden, pressed a few plants and shipped them to the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew, in England, where the species was then named and described by botanist William Bull.

Over the next few decades, they gained rapid attention and became popular garden and houseplants in England and Australia.

In the 1970s, the US Department of Agriculture sponsored an exploration of Papua New Guinea to find new ferns, begonias, and rhododendrons.

H. F. Winters and J. J. Higgins of the Agricultural Research Service found those, but they also spotted some impatiens.

While only 25 of the specimens survived the journey back to the US, after a quarantine period, the USDA took cuttings and sent them to botanical gardens, universities, and researchers to use in breeding programs.

That breeding effort has produced some really exceptional plants, with dense growth, stunning blossoms, and even some variegated cultivars.

Some have reddish, nearly black leaves, and some have multicolored blossoms.

Propagation

Professional growers typically propagate these plants from softwood cuttings, so that should tell you how reliable this method is.

You can also propagate from seed or purchase starts at a nursery.

Regardless of which method you choose, pinch the propagules frequently above a leaf bud after they begin putting on new growth. This will encourage fuller, bushier growth.

From Seed

Growing impatiens from seed is a little bit challenging. The seeds lose viability rapidly, so try to purchase from sellers who list a harvest date or guarantee fresh seeds until a defined date.

The seeds need light to germinate, so fill a seed tray with potting soil and sprinkle the seeds over the top.

You can press them in gently, but don’t bury them at all. Place the tray under grow lights for at least eight or up to 12 hours per day.

After the seedlings germinate, thin seedlings to four inches apart and gradually move the lights away from the leaves.

Generally, the lights should be about three inches from the top leaves, but this can vary a little depending on how intense your lights are.

Look for yellowing of the leaves. This can be a sign that the lights are too close.

From Cuttings

Cuttings are the most common option for reproducing impatiens, and no wonder. It’s so easy.

In the spring or summer, take a four-inch cutting from a healthy specimen. Make the cut just below a leaf node.

Place the cutting in a cup of water or a 50:50 mix of moistened peat and vermiculite and set it in an indoor location that receives bright, indirect light.

Keep the potting mix moist or change the water every day.

New roots should develop within two weeks. If not, you’ll need to try again. To test whether a cutting planted in soil has roots, just give it a gentle tug. If you feel some resistance, you’re golden.

Once you have one-inch roots on your water-grown cuttings, pull them out of the water and sprinkle them with a light, fluffy potting medium. This prevents the roots from clumping together.

Place each cutting in its permanent pot filled with potting medium, or in the ground.

Before you transplant, make sure you’ve amended the soil with lots of well-rotted compost to make it fluffy and light.

From Seedlings or Plugs

Most gardeners start their impatiens journey by purchasing plugs, seedlings, or larger transplants. If you go this route, it’s fairly easy. You can transplant in containers or in the ground.

If you opt to grow in a container, choose one with drainage holes and fill it with water-retentive potting soil.

For in-ground growing, loosen up the soil a foot down. Dig up the soil and add equal parts well-rotted compost, soil conditioner, and/or well-rotted manure.

Mix it all together and fill the planting area back in. Then, dig holes the size of the containers that your plants are currently in, spaced 18 inches apart.

Gently loosen each plant from its pot and lower it into the hole. Firm the soil up around the transplants, taking care not to bury them deeper than they were growing in the nursery containers.

Give them some water so the soil feels moist but not soggy.

How to Grow

If you try to grow these plants in the same shady conditions that the walleriana species will thrive in, you’ll be disappointed.

New Guinea impatiens need full sun to partial shade. In full shade, they’ll offer up some great greenery, but they won’t flower well.

Try to give the plants at least three hours of direct light or six or so hours of dappled light.

Plants growing in full sun need lots of moisture. Much like fuchsias, these plants can do well in full sun, but only if the soil isn’t allowed to dry out.

I think that’s why some people labor under the idea that these plants can’t grow in full sun. They can, but they tend to dry out more quickly.

If you can’t provide oodles of water, it’s better to grow them in partial sun or partial shade instead.

If you live somewhere that gets extremely hot in the summer, plant somewhere they’ll receive shade in the afternoon.

New Guinea impatiens can’t tolerate drought one bit. When the soil starts drying out, the plants will wilt rapidly.

They need a lot of water, and the soil should always feel like a well-wrung-out sponge. Any drier and it’s time to add water.

Err on the side of wetter rather than drier, though it’s important to remember that this plant won’t tolerate standing water either.

All that said, breeders have been working to create drought-tolerant cultivars. Check the tag on plants at the nursery to find out if the ones you’re looking at are more drought-tolerant.

The soil pH should hang out right around 5.5 to 6.5, but they’ll tolerate levels slightly outside of this range.

Every month during the growing season, feed with a foliar or soil fertilizer with a higher ratio of phosphorus – P in the NPK formula of plant nutrients – which encourages robust blooming. Usually, you’ll find these sold as flower-specific fertilizers.

I like Down to Earth’s range of products because they’re all-natural and come in compostable boxes.

Down to Earth Rose and Flower Mix

Their Rose & Flower Mix is available at Arbico Organics in one-, five-, and 15-pound boxes.

Container growing doesn’t require any special care except to note that the soil will likely dry out much more quickly.

Growing Tips

• Grow in full sun to partial shade, but be aware that plants in full sun will need careful monitoring.
• Soil should stay consistently moist.
• Fertilize monthly during the growing season from spring to fall.

Maintenance

There’s no need to deadhead the flowers because they’re self-cleaning. As they age and fall naturally, the plant will keep producing more blossoms.

If they start to become leggy, just pinch them back. You can pinch them back by about half to a leaf bud and they’ll come back more lush and thick, with new blossoms.

There’s also no need to toss your plants if you live somewhere too cold for them to withstand in the winter.

They can be overwintered on a windowsill or another indoor spot with enough sun, or in a greenhouse. Trim the plant back by about half before moving it.

Either carry the pot to your chosen spot or dig up a clump of dirt that contains the root ball and pot it up in a container.

Reduce the amount of water you provide so the top inch of soil is allowed to dry out. Don’t feed the plants during the winter.

Cultivars to Select

Many New Guinea impatiens that you’ll find on the market are hybridized with other species, such as SunPatiens. In this case, they are a hybrid of walleriana and hawkeri parents.

Growers aimed to combine the hardiness and sun tolerance of the New Guinea types with the floriferous nature of common impatiens and the result was this popular plant.

Here are some excellent New Guinea impatiens worth checking out:

Celebration

The Celebration series offers extremely large blossoms on vigorous plants.

Colors in this series include pale lavender, lavender, salmon, white, pink, apricot, purple, rose, peach, orange, and red.

If you like to grow your impatiens in pots, this is a good option because one plant will rapidly fill up a pot 18 inches in diameter.

Cultivars in this series are more heat tolerant than most other New Guinea impatiens.

Celebrette

The lilac, fiery orange, pink, or striped pink and rose flowers of the plants in this series are truly eye-catching, but it’s the size that makes them extra exciting.

These have some of the largest flowers among New Guinea impatiens. They also start blooming a bit earlier than some others.

The plants stay extremely compact, growing to max heights just under a foot tall.

Divine

The Divine™ series was bred to be an alternative to the common impatiens we all know and love.

More shade tolerant than walleriana plants, they’re resistant to that awful fungus that is killing so many other impatiens. Cultivars from this series can be propagated from seed, which is exciting.

Many New Guinea impatiens are hybrids that won’t grow true from seed, or they’re patented varieties so propagation is illegal. But these have stable genetics, and you’ll often find seed available for sale.

Divine™ comes in pink, white, red, lilac, salmon, and violet.

Infinity

Plants in the Infinity® series are interspecific hybrids that have improved mildew resistance and the ability to bloom in deep shade.

The foliage on this foot-tall plant is beautiful, with deep green and purple hues.

These plants are extremely vigorous and will bloom continually until the frost, or they’ll keep blooming if you live in a frost-free area.

‘Blushing Lilac’

This series includes red, white, pink and red, lavender, orange, and lilac options.

Grab some in ‘Blushing Lilac’ at Nature Hills Nursery.

Paradise

Paradise™ is a series known for its brightly-colored flowers and a compact, mounding growth habit. And the blossoms won’t quit from spring to fall.

Look for colors like salmon pink, peach, red, orange, lilac, and rose.

Rockapulco

Single impatiens are gorgeous, but doubles like the flowers in the Rockapulco® series are all the more striking.

They look like miniature roses smothering the dark green leaves on a 20-inch-tall plant.

Plants in this series feature coral, purple, rose, white, and classic pink flowers.

Spectra

The Spectra series is made up of plants that have excellent branching and extremely large blossoms, making them an exceptional choice for container growing.

They come in red, magenta, orange, pink, white, and bicolor pink.

Managing Pests and Disease

The New Guinea species is much more sturdy and able to withstand disease and pests than the common species.

Rabbits and deer are certainly adorable from afar, but once they find your flowers, either of these animals can become public enemy number one.

They love impatiens, regardless of the species, and they can mow their way through an entire flower bed in one night.

If you struggle with deer and rabbits, get out the fencing and repellants.

And while they aren’t likely to be a problem, it’s not unheard of for the following to find their way to your plants as well:

Pests

Unlike their wallerina cousins, the hawkeri species is resistant to most pests. It’s really just the red spider mite that you need to worry about.

Spider Mites

Breeders have been working to create mite-resistant plants, but in the meantime, we have to keep an eye out for these annoying creatures.

The main species that will infest impatiens are red or two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae).

Even though they’re difficult to see, these pests are extremely common, and you’ve probably had them in your garden before even if you didn’t know it.

The pests themselves look like little red, orange, or yellow dots scurrying around on the plant, though you might notice the webbing that they leave behind first.

These mites use their sucking mouthparts to feed on the plant, leaving yellow stippling behind. In large enough numbers, they can overwhelm and kill a plant.

Dealing with them is easy. If you catch them early, just spray off the foliage with water to knock them away. For more tips, read our guide to managing spider mite infestations.

Slugs and Snails

In my experience, herbaceous plants that do well in moist areas tend to be a favorite of slugs and snails, and that’s true here.

Those feet with a stomach (that’s what gastropod means) will steadily work their way through your flowers, leaving them ragged or sometimes missing entirely.

Read our guide to learn some handy methods of snail and slug control.

Whiteflies

If you’ve ever noticed a plant that seems to be covered in flecks of white and tan, or you touched a plant and a bunch of small insects rose up in a tiny white cloud, you’ve probably witnessed a whitefly infestation.

These aren’t true flies, but rather, sapsucking insects that cause yellow stippling, reduced growth, and even dead leaves. They also spread disease.

Read our guide for all the information you need to identify and address a whitefly infestation.

Disease

New Guinea impatiens are more notable for the diseases they don’t typically succumb to rather than the ones they do.

These plants aren’t troubled by downy mildew, which is a disease that has decimated I. walleriana.

Nonetheless, there’s one in particular to be on the lookout for.

Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus

While it isn’t a widespread problem, impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) can be quite damaging.

This virus is spread by insects, which means you really need to do your best to keep western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) away.

If infected, your plants will show stunted and distorted growth with discoloration on the leaves. You’ll see dark green and black spots, along with similarly colored steaks or rings.

Sadly, there is no known cure. If you’re growing your plants indoors, you can just let them do their thing.

Outdoors, you should probably pull them to avoid spreading the virus to other impatiens in your or your neighbor’s yard.

Best Uses

New Guinea impatiens are perfect bedding plants, and you’ve probably seen them filling in spaces next to walkways or in the front of gardens. They’re also perfect in containers or hanging baskets.

Adaptable enough to live in full sun to full shade, remember they’ll be mostly foliage plants in shady areas.

You also can’t beat them if you want to do some mass planting.

Depending on whether you’re growing your flowers in shade or sun, impatiens play well with astilbe, begonias, coleus, dianthus, ferns, fuchsia, hostas, and sweet alyssum.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Herbaceous tropical perennial	Flower / Foliage Color:	Lavender, lilac, orange, pink, purple, rose, salmon, violet, white/green
Native to:	Papua New Guinea	Tolerance:	Shade
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	10-12	Maintenance:	Low
Bloom Time/Season:	Spring, summer (annuals), also some blooms in fall/winter as perennials	Soil Type:	Loose, rich
Exposure:	Full sun to part sun	Soil pH:	5.5-6.5
Time to Maturity:	12 weeks from seed	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	18 inches	Attracts:	Bees, butterflies
Planting Depth:	Soil surface (seed), same depth as in container (transplants)	Companion Planting:	Astilbe, begonias, coleus, dianthus, ferns, fuchsia, hostas, sweet alyssum
Height:	36 inches	Avoid Planting With:	Cacti or succulents
Spread:	36 inches	Uses:	Bedding, containers, hanging baskets
Growth Rate:	Fast	Family:	Balsaminaceae
Water Needs:	High	Genus:	Impatiens
Common Pests and Diseases:	Spider mites, slugs, snails, whiteflies; impatiens necrotic spot virus	Species:	Hawkeri

The Flowers You Love, But Tougher

If you ever wished you could grow your favorite bedding plant in the sun, or cried over a bed of dying plants, New Guinea impatiens are going to be a game changer for you.

Which cultivar are you planning to grow in your yard? How are you going to use it? Fill us in on all the details in the comments below.

If you’d like to fill your garden up with some more excellent flowers that are perfect for mass planting, consider visiting some of these guides next:

Finished Reading

Born Again Dirt by Noah Sanders

An Agricultural Testament by Sir Albert Howard

Landrace Gardening by Joseph Lofthouse

The Contagion Myth by Thomas S. Cowan and Sally Fallon Morrell

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 1 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 2 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 3 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 4 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

A Soil Owner’s Manual by Jon Stika

Comeback Farms by Greg Judy

Dirt to Soil by Gabe Brown

Keeping Bees with a Smile by Fedor Lazutin and Leo Sharashkin

Balanced Beekeeping I: Building a Top Bar Hive by Philip Chandler

Balanced Beekeeping II: Managing the Top Bar Hive by Philip Chandler

Handling Sin by Michael Malone

The Rooted Life by Justin Rhodes

The Complete Guide to Restoring Your Soil by Dale Strickler

Soil Science for Gardeners by Robert Pavlis

The Wheel of Health: The Sources of Long Life and Health Among the Hunza by Dr. G. T. Wrench

For the Love of the Soil by Nicole Masters

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 5 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

Three Men in a Boat (To Say Nothing of the Dog) by Jerome K. Jerome

Metabolical by Dr. Robert Lustig

Satyricon by Gaius Petronius

Skin in the Game by Nassim Taleb

The History of Early Rome by Livy

Dissolving Illustions by Suzanne Humphries and Roman Bystrianyk

Goodbye, Things: The New Japanese Minimalism by Fumio Sasaki

Less: A Visual Guide to Minimalism by Rachel Aust

Minimalism: Live a Meaningful Life by Joshua Fields Milburn and Ryan Nicodemus

De Agricultura by Cato

Don’t Stop the Carnival by Herman Wouk

The Art of Fermentation by Sandor Katz

Tom Jones by Henry Fielding

Coppice Agrofrestry by Mark Krawczyk

Eating on the Wild Side by Jo Robinson

The More of Less: Finding the Life You Want Under Everything You Own by Joshua Becker

Aeneid by Virgil

Behold Your Mother: A Biblical and Historical Defense of the Marian Doctrines by Tim Staples

Becoming Orthodox by Peter Gilquist

The Holy Bible (NKJV) by God

Started then Ditched

Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens


The Barefoot Beekeeper by Philip Chandler


Holistic Management, Third Edition: A Commonsense Revolution to Restore Our Environment by Allan Savory

Pretty peonies are the quintessential romance flowers. They come by their popularity as a wedding flower and Instagram-worthy showpieces because of their truly breathtaking form and sweet fragrance. This everything guide to peonies covers the history and symbolism of peonies, the different cultivars, as well as how to grow, harvest, and use garden peonies.

I’ve never met a person who didn’t love peonies. All it takes is one neighbour to grow a beautiful peony flower to make you run out to the garden centre to get your own.

Peonies are incredibly giving flowers once they get established. They bloom large, showy flowers yearly and can remain in your garden for your entire life.

Here’s how to grow peonies and harvest them to brighten up the home.

Expert Tips for Growing Peonies

• Plant peonies in full sun, where they can get 6-8 hours of sunlight a day.
• Peony flowers are drought-tolerant and require no additional fertilizer.
• Peonies require staking as the plants can get quite top-heavy when in bloom.
• If it rains, gently shake the water collected in the flowers to stop them from weighing down.
• To cut flowers, harvest them when they’re still a squishy bud, known as the marshmallow stage.

History and Symbolism of Peonies

In Eastern cultures, the peony is known as the “king of flowers” and a symbol of wealth, honour, and beauty. Peonies are often seen at weddings and are sometimes reserved for royalty. It was the national flower of China for over 250 years before being replaced.

In Greek mythology, it is said that peonies are named for Paeon, a physician to the gods, while there are other stories of beings turned into peonies out of jealousy or immortality. Many intertwined tales around the world of peonies follow the themes of high value as a medicinal plant and as a striking beauty.

In both European and Asian countries, these beautiful flowers were traditionally grown for their medicinal properties. Paeonia lactiflora is often used in Chinese herbal medicine. Asian countries use a decoction made from the root to treat inflammatory diseases like rheumatoid arthritis, lupus, hepatitis, muscle cramping, and fever.

The flower buds and petals are often used as a tea. Peony petals look beautiful served raw in salads but the buds and pedals can also be fried.

Peony Varieties

There are thousands of different cultivars of peony that are divided into three major groups.

Herbaceous or Garden Peonies are sun-loving garden perennials which include species such as the medicinal Paeonia lactiflora.

They are low maintenance in Zones 2 to 8 and require little water once established. They can be an investment to get started in the first few years, but after that, they will require little maintenance to bloom prolifically for many years to come.

Tree Peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) grow in Zones 4 to 9 and bloom a bit earlier than garden peonies (April and May).

The stems are woody and stay above ground all year, growing 4 to 7 ft tall with beautiful foliage and enormous flowers that can be up to 10 inches across.

Itoh Peonies are a hybrid of garden peonies and tree peonies. They grow in Zones 4 to 9 and bloom in June.

Like many hybrids, these plants are bred for the best qualities of their parents. With Itoh peonies, you can find the prettiest flowers, the most striking foliage, and the most easy-going habit. Itoh peonies can be expensive, but you’ll know why when you see them in the garden.

Peony Flower Types

There are six types of peony flower forms that peonies are known for, each striking and showy in their own way:

• single
• semi-double
• double
• bomb
• Japanese
• anemone

The single, semi-double, Japanese, and anemone forms grow petals around colourful stamens and pistils. In the double and bomb forms, the blooms are full of ruffled petals, and no pollen is visible.

How to Grow Herbaceous Peonies

These cool-climate perennials thrive in Zones 2 to 8 and bloom in late spring, generally between April and June. Here’s how to grow peonies!

Soil and Location

Plant peonies where you plan to keep them. They take a little while to get established. If planting from bare roots, it can take three years before they provide plenty of blooms.

Potted peonies will bloom faster. But still, they like to be established in the garden to produce the most blooms. So once you set them in place, they could be happy to produce flowers for well over 50 years.

But every time peonies get moved, they have to re-establish themselves. Garden peonies aren’t picky about soil, but they do like to have good drainage.

Light

To flower well, these sun-lovers need at least six hours of sun in the spring and summer months. They also require cool soil in the winter to stimulate spring growth.

Water

Peonies are drought-tolerant and don’t require additional fertilizer to bloom. Adding compost as a topsoil dressing annually should be enough to build healthy soil and keep peonies happy.

While the plants are sturdy, the flowers are more delicate. Overhead watering and heavy rain can be too much for the blooms, knocking them over and breaking the stems.

After the rain, head out to the garden and gently shake each one of the blooms to release the weight of water captured inside. This will help them to perk back up.

For those blooms that can’t be saved, cut the stems and bring the flower into the house to enjoy in a vase.

Staking

Peonies’ giant, fluffy blooms get heavy, so many peony plants require staking. There are commercial peony stakes that you can purchase, but my favourite option is a peony chair.

Around my eclectic East Vancouver neighbourhood, it’s not uncommon to see a seatless chair frame standing in the garden beds to hold up peonies. As we live in a rainy climate, it’s absolutely necessary to have something strong to hold those blooms up.

Otherwise, this is what happens!

Pests

Pests are generally not a problem, even though you may see ants on the peony buds before they open. There’s a common tale that the ants help the peony blooms to open, but the ants are really just drawn to the sweet nectar.

How to Divide Peonies

Divide peonies in the fall after the plant has gone dormant. If you have forgotten, you can also divide them in the early spring before the flowers and leaves appear.

Once the leaves have formed on the stems and flower buds are showing, it’s best to wait until the following fall to divide them. Remember that it takes time for peonies to re-establish when they’re moved or divided and transplanted.

How to Harvest Peonies for Cut Flowers

When cutting flowers for arrangements, to dry for craft projects, or for culinary or medicinal purposes, I put my all-purpose bypass pruners away and instead use the precision blades of floral pruners and snips.

Peonies have sturdy stems, but they are not woody, so light plant pruning shears are perfect. A low-friction coating means the bypass pruners won’t gum up with sap and bits of the plant.

Don’t cut any flowers for the first year the peony is getting established. In the second and third years, if you have to cut a few flowers, do so sparingly.

To make your flowers last long, keep a bucket of cold water with you, and use clean tools to make the cuts. Take a long stem for your peonies but leave at least three sets of leaves on the plant below the cut.

You can cut peonies for arrangements at the bud stage or when the blooms are opening. The earliest you can cut the flowers is when the buds are not quite open but a bit squishy when you pinch them. This is called the “marshmallow” stage because the bud should feel like a springy marshmallow.

Cutting them at this stage ensures that you have the longest-lasting blooms but cut them any earlier, and they won’t bloom in the vase. Immediately put the cut stems in cold water and keep them out of direct sunlight.

How to Arrange Peonies

You can keep the cut flowers in your fridge or a cool place for a few days to delay blooming. Add the flowers to lukewarm water to speed up blooming and place them in a well-lit area.

Remove any leaves from the stem that will touch the water. 

Cut the stems on a diagonal before adding them to a vase of water. They have heavy flower heads, so be sure the vase is heavy enough to hold those big blooms.

Cut the stems so that the blooms sit at an appropriate height just above the top of the vase. Stems that are too tall can cause the vase to topple over.

The beauty of peonies doesn’t have to be seasonal. While gorgeous garden peonies only last in the garden for a few weeks and have a showy but limited vase life, you can preserve the beauty all year by drying the petals and making a gorgeous, naturally-scented peony bath salts recipe.

Frequently Asked Questions About Peonies

More Gorgeous Garden Guides

If you’re interested in modern interior design, you’ll know that preferred materials are always changing and developing. One trend that’s currently popular with interior design specialists and enthusiasts is the use of acrylic.

This versatile and affordable material continues to win fans, and can be used in everything from mirrors using acrylic mirror sheets through to kitchen splashbacks. In collaboration with Plastics Sheets Shop this article looks at the use of acrylic sheets in interiors, and why they’re a great choice.

What actually is acrylic? 

You’ve probably heard of acrylic before; it’s often also called plexiglass. Despite being known as plexiglass, however, it’s much more versatile than that and can be used for many different applications – everything from replacement glass in mirrors through to weaving clothes using acrylic fibres. It really is that versatile, and that’s why it should have no problems finding a place in your modern interior design palette. 

Why should you think about using acrylic?

The first thing to consider with acrylic is that it’s very strong. It’s also naturally shatter-resistant, which is particularly evident when you compare it with more traditional alternatives such as glass. This makes acrylic a very useful product when it comes to child-proofing a family home. 

Take a mirror in a hallway for example. If a child throws a toy and it hits the mirror, knocking it to the floor, it’s very likely that a glass mirror will shatter. This is obviously expensive to replace and quite dangerous, as minute glass fragments can be very difficult to clean up. If that mirror was made of reflective acrylic however, there’s a high probability it wouldn’t even sustain a mark – and it certainly wouldn’t shatter. 

Another benefit of acrylic is that it’s very light. This ties into the above, in that it also makes it very safe. A glass mirror will be heavy, so if it falls, there’s a risk of injury. An acrylic mirror would be much lighter, meaning there’d be considerably less risk. The fact that acrylic is so light means it’s much cheaper to ship and easier to handle too, making it a more accessible material for design enthusiasts within all budget ranges. 

One more key benefit to consider is that acrylic products are very easy to live with, because they require very little maintenance. This durability means you can invest in products that will last a long time, helping to minimise plastic waste in the home.

How to use acrylic mirrored sheets in your home 

Now you know more about acrylic and why it’s so popular, you’re probably wondering what you can use it for. The simple answer is pretty much anything you like! 

You could use acrylic mirrored sheets to create a kitchen splashback. They can also be used in your shower to break up conventional tiling and create interesting effects, or as an alternative to a more traditional bathroom mirror.

Acrylic mirrored sheets can be hung on the inside of wardrobe doors to create a useful mirror exactly where you need it. Thanks to its light weight you won’t need much effort to keep it fixed securely to a flat surface; some strong double sided tape should be enough.

Mirrored acrylic sheets can also be used in feature walls throughout the home to bring stylistic flair and to break up solid colours.

Thanks to its lightness, affordability, and variety of shapes and styles, you can easily experiment with acrylic mirror sheets to find the perfect option for your home. 

Gardens at the Chelsea Flower Show can often feel rarified and unrelatable. But recently the show’s organizer, the Royal Horticultural Society, has made strides to make this global showcase appeal to a far broader audience with smaller space gardens, balcony and container gardens, as well as plant-focused designs that are shown in the floral pavilion. There are plenty of ideas to steal from the main show gardens, too, with endless beguiling planting combinations, clever ideas, and bubbling-up trends that will no doubt segue from garden show innovation to our backyard gardens. Here are a few of our favorite ideas from this year’s Chelsea.

Photographs by Clare Coulson unless otherwise noted.

A Smokey Palette

Dramatic Punctuation Points

A Rusty Pergola

A Luxe Bird Feeder

Leveraging Logs

Cherry Ong is sharing more photos of spring bloom at Butchart Gardens in Victoria, British Columbia. Today she’s focusing on all the beautiful daffodils (Narcissus hybrids, Zones 3–9) that caught her eye. It is a great time to look them over and think about what varieties you might want to order for planting this fall.

Double-flowered daffodils turn the classic form of the flower on its head by adding extra layers of petals. Here, the petal-packed blooms are complemented by blue forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica, Zones 3–8) planted underneath and the emerging variegated foliage of a tulip.

These daffodils are are all elegant refinement, with the softest of color and small blooms. If big, brash, bright yellow daffodils aren’t your thing, there are many more understated options to choose from. Planting them in containers like this is a great way to display special varieties.

A few white daffodils bloom in a naturalistic planting against beautiful tree trunks.

This is a “split cup” daffodil; instead of the central petals forming the classic trumpet shape, they split open and lie flat, creating a whole different look to the bloom. The colors here are beautiful as well.

Here’s another split-cup daffodil, this one all yellow and with petals so extravagantly ruffled they look like they belong on some over-the-top gown.

White daffodils, orange tulips, and blue forget-me-not growing together make a beautiful display.

This is a great way to show off the bulbs when they are in flower. Looking close, you can see that the bulbs are growing in plastic pots that have been dropped into these decorative planters. This means they can be easily switched out after the flowers fade to be replaced with another planting for summer. You could easily do the same at home – just plant the plastic pots up in the fall, leave them in an unheated shed or garage over winter, move them into place when they flower, and then move them out of the way again once the flowers fade.

This is what is called a reverse bicolor daffodil. The trumpet of the bloom is white or pale yellow, in contrast to the darker outer ring of petals.

This is an unusual double daffodil, with the extra petals just filling up the central trumpet and a couple single versions mixed in. Both are beautiful!

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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