Category: Home & Garden

The flowers of this plant are a delight to those who admire extreme grace, dainty markings, and fantastic forms. Many flowers have been compared by writers to butterflies, but it is only this one that has received the name of Butterfly flower. The Butterfly weed (Asclepias) and the Butterfly bush (Buddleia) is so-called not because they resemble butterflies, but because they attract them.

The flowers of the Schizanthus pinnatus are white, pink, crimson, yellow, purple, lavender and rose, and are delicately spotted and blotched like the smaller butterflies. The blooms on a well-grown plant are produced in such profusion as to completely cover it. For the garden, the dwarfed varieties should be chosen as the tall sorts grow rather slender and crooked. The leaves are attractive, being deeply cut and fern-like.

There are really four species found in catalogs: S. retusus, S. pinnatus, S. grahami and S. wiselonensis (a hybrid between the last two species). They resemble each other rather closely. Much depends upon the strain purchased. The Dawkins and the Garaway hybrids are considered to be the largest flowered sorts.

The Schizanthus is attractively displayed in small vases in which the flowers appear like small orchids. In the garden, unless the low-growing sorts are used, the plants will require staking, because the stems are weak and become crooked when not trained.

How to grow Schizanthus from Seed

Sow the seeds out of doors in late Spring when the soil is warm. The plants do not transplant as readily as some annuals, and it is, therefore, wisest to move each seedling with a ball of earth. Let the plants stand a foot or 18 inches apart and give them a little shade. The young plants are the better for the support of a stake early in their growth; they need not be strong nor over 2 feet tall.

The plants bloom in two months from seed. Pinching them early in their growth will make them bushier and less straggling, a tendency to the latter form being their fault. Spraying with water daily in Summer will keep them healthy.

Information on 50+ annual flowers

SCHIZANTHUS Butterfly flower (Poor-mans-orchid)(Fringe flower) From the Greek cut flower, referring to the fact that the petals are cut and lobed

Not all annuals can just be planted in the soil and hope for the best. Most annuals have a special purpose and function in the garden environment. Think about your garden and understand how you can use the annual flower. Enclosed are several options you can use for your annual flowers.

Hardy annuals for Autumn Sowing in the open
Alyssum, Calendula (pot marigold), Centaurea (cornflower), Clarkia, Delphinium ajacis (larkspur), Eschscholzia (Californian poppy), Godetia, Iberis (candytuft), Lathyrus odoratus (sweet pea), Limnanthes douglasii, Nigella (love-in-a-mist), Papaver nudicaule (Shirley poppy), Saponaria, Scabiosa.

Annuals for Full Sun in Well-drained soil (Hardy and Half-hardy)
Arctotis, Brachycome, Calandrinia, Clarkia, Dimorphotheca, Echium, Esthscholzia, Helipterum, Hibiscus, Linum (flax), Mesembryanthemum, Oenothera, Papaver (poppy), Portulaca, Salpiglossis, Sanvitalia, Sedum (stonecrop), Statice (limonium), Tagetes (African and French marigolds), Tropaeolum (nasturtium), Ursinia, Venidium, Zinnia.

Annual Climbers
Cobaea scandens, Eccremocarpus scaber, Gourds, Humulus (hop), Ipomoea (morning glory), Lathyrus odoratus (sweet pea), Maurandia, Quamoclit, Tropaeolum (nasturtium).

Annuals with Fragrant Flowers
Alyssum, Asperula, Centaurea (sweet sultan), Dianthus (pink), Exacum, Heliotrope (cherry pie), Hesperis (sweet rocket), Lathyrus odoratus (sweet pea), Lupinus luteus (yellow lupin), Matthiola (stocks), Nicotiana
(tobacco plant), Oenothera (evening primrose), Reseda (mignonette), Tropaeolum (nasturtium) (Gleam hybrids).

Low-growing Annuals (from 9-18 in.) Adonis, Anthemis, Centaurea (cornflower, dwarf forms), Collinsia, Convolvulus tricolor, Coreopsis coronata, Coreopsis tinctoria, Dimorphotheca, Eschscholzia, Gilia, Godetia (dwarf forms), Helipterum, Iberis (candytuft), Linaria, Matthiola bicornis (night-scented stock), Matthiola (ten-week stock), Omphalodes, Reseda (mignonette), Scabiosa (dwarf forms), Tagetes patula (dwarf French marigold), Ursinia.

Annuals for Moist Soil
Calendula (pot marigold), Helianthus (sunflower), Limnanthes douglasii, Linaria (toadflax), Linum grandiflorum rubrum (scarlet flax), Nemophila, Nigella (love-in-a-mist), Reseda (mignonette), Saxifrage cymbalaria.

How to grow an annual flower from seed.

How to Plant Annuals flowers

Where to plant Annuals and Biennials flowers

Containers – Edging and Paving – Cut Flowers – Annuals Biennials

Annuals and Biennials for the Cool Greenhouse

How to use Annual and Biennial flowers

Growing Annual and Biennial plants

Annuals for your Garden

NICOTIANA Flowering Tobacco

(Named for Jean Nicot, French consul to Portugal, who first presented tobacco to the courts of Portugal and France)

The evening fragrance of the flowers of this plant is most delightful. Besides this, the flowers are attractive in form and color, which ranges from pure and creamy white, to deep pink, violet, crimson, and flesh. The shades are of the same soft tones as are found in the best Stocks. The flowers are borne in great profusion upon flower stems at least 3 feet tall. The leaves are usually abundant and form a cluster about the base of the plants.

Species. Jasmine Tobacco. Nicoliana alata var. affinis. This sort has large fragrant flowers open at night but closing in cloudy weather. The leaves extend down to make winged branches.

Nicoliana sylvesfris. The flowers are drooping, in short head-like clusters, corolla entirely white unlike N. alata, which is yellowish outside. They remain open all day.

Sander T. Nicotiana sanderae (N. forgetiana x N. alata) is the red-flowered sort with the five lobes of the corolla rounded, not acutely pointed.

Where to Plant. Few writers can resist advising amateur gardeners to plant masses of these flowers where the evening breezes will blow their fragrance toward a porch. They are slender in growth and are seen to advantage when given a background of taller annuals. Combined with Cosmos, they make a good bed.

GENERAL. The seed is very tiny and should be sown carefully. As the seedlings make a slow growth under cold conditions, it is wise to start them in the hotbed or sunny window. The soil should be finely pulverized and well enriched in order to produce tall plants and large flowers. The plants often self-sow, so that the plants practically become perennials.

Nicotianas grow in sun or partial shade and are not particular as to the soil.

Information on 50+ annual flowers

We all know what makes lilacs fabulous – it’s those spring days when you’re walking outside and you suddenly get a whiff of a heavily floral fragrance.

That’s when you look around and, yep, your lilacs are in bloom. Is there anything that smells as delightful as fresh lilacs?

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Another reason people love lilacs so much is that they are mostly maintenance-free and known for being resistant to pests and diseases.

If you give them a hard refresh prune every so often, they’ll look lovely and bloom fantastically for years.

Unless, that is, one of the seven common lilac diseases comes calling.

While these plants are rarely troubled by problems, when they are, lilacs can have a hard time. Many of the following diseases will kill your shrub outright, and they don’t have a cure.

If you grow your shrub in the right location and provide adequate water and food, as discussed in our guide to growing lilacs, it will go a long way toward keeping your plant healthy.

But even if you do everything right, problems can occur. Here are the seven diseases we’ll discuss:

Common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) are generally more susceptible to problems than other species.

But breeders have been working hard to create disease-resistant options, so if you’re feeling down about diseases, look for those. We’ll call out some of these in the following guide.

1. Ascochyta Blight

Caused by the fungus Ascochyta syringae, this blight isn’t the most common disease of lilacs. But when it strikes, it has an outsized impact.

As new shoots and flowers emerge in the spring, they’ll quickly turn brown and wilt. Or, they might be girdled and die off. All that fresh new growth you were so excited about? Suddenly, it’s gone.

Other diseases can cause tip blight, so look for gray fungal bumps that develop all over the dead parts. Older leaves will have tan spots with these fungal bumps on them.

The moment you see the dying branches, prune them off. Then, start treating right away with a fungicide.

I’m a fan of Mycostop, which uses a beneficial bacterium found in sphagnum peat called Streptomyces strain K61. I can personally attest to its effectiveness against many fungal diseases.

Mycostop Biofungicide

Arbico Organics carries this product in five- or 25-gram quantities, and a little goes a long way.

2. Bacterial Blight

The bacteria Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae is super common and lives in just about every part of the world.

If you want to avoid it, you’ll need to move to Antarctica. In lilacs, the pathogen causes what we call lilac bacterial blight.

All that’s nice to know, but what does it mean for your plant? When it infects the plant, it causes brown, water-soaked lesions to form on the leaves.

The spots start out as teeny little pin-sized spots, but they’ll keep growing until they merge with each other and create large necrotic areas.

As that takes place, the leaves start wrinkling and curling, and they might drop off the bush.

In the spring, when the shrub is sending out new, tender growth, it will turn brown and rot. When the lesions form on the stems and branches, it can cause girdling and death.

New buds will turn brown and drop from the plant.

The bacteria overwinters in fallen debris, within the plant itself, or in nearby weeds. It can live on the most minute piece of material in the soil. What I’m trying to say is that it’s really hard to avoid.

On top of that, it’s spread by water, wind, pests, and garden tools. Given cool, wet weather, it starts to spread like wildfire. But don’t lose hope – it has a weakness.

The pathogen needs to have an opening to get into the plant. It’s easier said than done, but if you avoid damaging your lilacs and you’re able to keep pests away from your plants, it will go a long way toward keeping this disease away.

Minimizing splashing and always cleaning your garden tools with soap and water before and after use adds another layer of preventative protection.

Obviously, you can’t avoid pruning altogether. But if you use clean tools and prune only when the weather is dry and calm, and when it’s expected to stay that way for the next few days, this will limit the chances that the pathogen will infect the wounds.

Keeping your plant healthy with appropriate watering and feeding helps lilacs to withstand infection, and if yours does contract the disease, this can help it survive.

Appropriate spacing and pruning for airflow are also important.

If you’re really concerned about this disease, be aware that white lilacs seem to be more susceptible.

Cultivars including ‘Annabel,’ ‘Burgundy Queen,’ ‘California Rose,’ ‘Charm,’ ‘Edward Gardner,’ ‘Etna,’ ‘Little Boy Blue,’ ‘Monge,’ ‘Olimpiada,’ and ‘Yankee Doodle’ seem to be particularly susceptible.

On the other hand, ‘Cheyenne,’ ‘Edith Cavelle,’ ‘General Sheridan,’ ‘Glory,’ ‘Katherine Havenmayer,’ ‘Montaigne,’ ‘President Grevy,’ ‘Pink Elizabeth,’ ‘Saugeana,’ and the S. josikaea, S. komarowii, S. microphylla, S. pekinensis, and S. reflexa species are resistant to some degree.

3. Fungal Leaf Spot

Fungal leaf spots are caused by fungi in the genus Pseudocercospora. The same fungi will attack all plants in the Syringa genus as well as guava, mulberry, and olive trees.

Japanese tree lilacs (S. reticulata) are particularly susceptible.

During the spring and summer when temperatures are around 75°F, especially with high humidity, affected leaves will develop these dark green or brown patches that stop at the veins, so they have a sort of angular appearance.

These leaves might eventually drop from the plant.

But regardless of whether they fall or not, the plant will be stunted and weakened because it isn’t photosynthesizing as well as it should, especially if a high percentage of the foliage is impacted.

The disease can also cause shoots to die back.

The first step if you note signs of fungal leaf spot is to remove any sick leaves, which might mean removing entire branches.

This is usually enough to control a minor infection, but if your plant is seriously infected, with a majority of the leaves showing symptoms and severely restricted flowering or growth, you’re going to need to pull out the fungicides.

Clean up any debris in the fall, because the fungi can live on plant debris for at least two years.

If you opt to go for a fungicide, use something that won’t upset the delicate environmental balance in your garden. There are some excellent biofungicides out there that provide targeted control with less of an impact.

Streptomyces lydicus is a bacterium that is effective against a broad range of bad fungi and bacteria that lives on foliage.

Actinovate SP

Something like Actinovate SP, which is available at Arbico Organics in 18-ounce bags, contains this bacterium and can be mixed with water to apply to the foliage.

Spray your shrub and the soil around it once every two weeks while the symptoms are present.

The following year, apply it again two times in the spring, just after the leaves have emerged and opened.

This is a preventative step that will kill off any pathogens that managed to survive through the winter.

4. Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that causes an easy-to-identify, white, powdery growth. You’ll often see this growth on plants or leaves that are in shaded conditions.

The mildew usually starts on the lower part of the plant and works its way up. It can also cause the leaves to discolor.

It usually starts in late spring as the temperatures increase, especially in high humidity.

Don’t panic if your lilacs contract this disease. While it’s not ideal, it won’t kill your plant. It’s just kind of ugly and, in extreme cases, can reduce the vigor of your plant.

Caused by the fungus Erysiphe syringae (syn. Microsphaera syringae), rather than treating it with harsh chemicals, a little bit of gardening hygiene can go a long way.

Regular pruning to open up the plant and improve air circulation, as well as proper spacing when planting, can be helpful. Ensuring your plants are growing in full sun is also a good preventative.

In general, S. vulgaris and all cultivars are susceptible, while other species tend to be more resistant. Of the vulgaris cultivars, ‘Charles Joy,’ ‘Old Glory,’ and ‘Sensation’ are more resistant.

If you’re really worried about your plant and you want to learn more about some powdery mildew control methods, read our guide to this oh-so-common disease.

5. Shoot Blight

Shoot blight is a disease caused by the oomycete Phytophthora cactorum. An oomycete is a microorganism that is often confused for fungi, but it’s more closely related to algae.

One of the worst things about this particular disease is that it appears as just a general malaise, with wilty, browning, curling leaves. Below ground, the young roots are dying off, causing the plant to struggle.

It’s hard to pinpoint the disease based on these early symptoms. Eventually, the young shoots will start to die, at which point, you might start realizing that your lilac is in trouble.

The other challenge is that there isn’t a known cure, and once it’s in your soil, it can live there for up to a decade.

You can support your plant by keeping it well watered and fed, and also pruning off the dead ends. Once the disease progresses and the plant starts dying, you’ll need to just pull it. Don’t plant lilacs there again for 10 years.

Dogwoods and forsythia are also hosts, so don’t plant them either. Instead, substitute ninebark (Physocarpus spp.), spirea (Spiraea spp.), or sumac (Rhus spp.).

6. Witches’ Broom

In some species, witches’ brooms can cause some fun growths that can be used to propagate exciting new plants. But in lilacs, it mostly just makes them ugly.

Witches’ broom causes new branches to die, or it can create abnormal growth like a bunch of tangled, weak shoots, and distorted or yellow leaves. Leaf edges might also turn brown, and new leaves might be small and pale.

Eventually, this growth will spread, and the plant will die. See? It’s no fun at all.

This strange growth is caused by the bacteria-like ash yellows phytoplasma (Candidatus Phytoplasma fraxini). This pathogen can also infect ash trees (Fraxinus spp.).

Once your plant is infected, there’s nothing you can do. It’s going to eventually die. Rather than wait for it, pull your lilac to avoid allowing the pathogen to travel to other plants.

Be sure to toss the diseased material in the garbage, not into your compost. Don’t shred it to use as mulch.

Since the disease is spread by leafhoppers, doing your best to control these pests can help keep it from visiting in the first place.

7. Verticillium Wilt

Many woody ornamentals are susceptible to verticillium wilt, sometimes called vert for short. Lilacs are particularly susceptible to the fungus that causes this disease, V. dahliae.

As with several other diseases on this list, the first symptom is wilting branch tips. Sometimes entire branches will start wilting. How do you tell if it’s vert or another disease?

Peel away the bark on the wilting branch. Do you see streaks of brown or green? You can be certain that’s what you’re dealing with.

However, you shouldn’t assume a lack of streaks means it’s not wilt because lilacs won’t always show this symptom.

Look for small, yellow leaves or a pattern of dead branches on just half of the shrub to help you to be certain.

So, now that you’re sure you’re dealing with vert, what can you do? Not much, unfortunately.

You can prune off the wilted branches and hope for the best, but your plant will eventually die. At that point, rip it out and dispose of it.

Since the fungus is soil-borne, it’s already in your garden, so there isn’t much use in tearing out plants that are only mildly symptomatic.

Don’t Let Lilac Diseases Get You Down

I sincerely hope you’ll never have to deal with any of these issues. But if you do, know that it happens to all of us, and there’s always something new and fun to grow.

That might be a more resistant cultivar or a different species altogether, but that’s the challenge of gardening, right?

What kind of lilac are you growing, and what problem are you dealing with? Are you looking for help? Let us know what’s going on in the comments.

Now that you’ve sorted out your disease woes, there’s more you might want to know about lovely lilacs. Here are a few guides worth checking out if you’re looking for more:

HOW WELL DO YOU really know the piece of land on which you live and garden, or the bigger landscape context it sits within that forms your neighborhood, perhaps?

A new book I’ve been reading called “These Trees Tell A Story: The Art of Reading Landscapes” (affiliate link) takes the reader along on explorations through a diversity of places looking for hints on how to know the island as its author, Noah Charney suggests.

Noah is an assistant professor of conservation biology at the University of Maine and co-author with Charley Eiseman of the award-winning field guide “Tracks & Sign of Insects & Other Invertebrates,” one of my much-used favorites.

On the website of the publisher of Noah’s latest book, Yale University Press, it describes it as, “deeply personal masterclass on how to read a natural landscape and unravel the clues to its unique ecological history.”

Plus: Comment in the box near the bottom of the page for a chance to win the new book.

Read along as you listen to the June 19, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

reading your landscape, with noah charney

 

 

Margaret Roach: Hi, Noah. So you taught a course I think that the idea of this book kind of derives from a course that was called, I believe, “Field Naturalist.” Is that correct?

Noah Charney: Yeah, that’s right. And in that course every week we’d go out to different sites on the landscape and we’d take the van to some spot that the students really wouldn’t know where they’re going and they’d encounter a mystery, like the trees would change on one side of the line to the other or something. There would be some pattern that then the students would have to discover what was driving that pattern, what caused it, and they’d just have a few hours or the rest of the day to uncover all the forces that came to tell the story of that site.

Margaret: It’s fun, kind of, the forensics. I should say I know your collaborator on your previous book, the field guide, Charley Eiseman. I know you two have taught animal tracking and all kinds of other things over the years as well. So you’re very astute observers. But I didn’t know until this book that you were an astute observer of this much larger level.

I mean, I guess I should have inferred that, but you know what I mean? I knew more about that you knew what kind of spider made what kind of web [laughter] and what kind of cocoon and animal track and things like that.

Noah: Honestly, neither of us really knew anything about insects or much about insects and invertebrates before we wrote that book. We were studying animal tracking and we realized that no one had written one about the insects and invertebrates so we took a deep dive into that. And Charley now as you probably know has gone really far into leaf miners and galls and knows a lot more about that. But neither of us started out on that path. We’re just sort of curious and naturalists, generalist naturalists.

I mean, Charley went through the field naturalist program at UVM, which was the basis for the course that I taught, too. And so very much generally trained and interested.

Margaret: Right. So curious is a good word. And early in the new book you tell an anecdote about hiking with a friend, I think it was near Boston, and you eventually come to what I think is referred to as a greenway, sort of a bike path with narrow strips of green alongside. You describe this as an “invasive-dominated, degraded ecosystem.” [Laughter.] But then you walk a while longer and you notice some particular trees and you close your eyes. So tell us, in that kind of a situation, what do you see with your eyes open and what do you see with your eyes closed? What goes on in a moment like that for you?

Noah: Yeah. I mean with my eyes open, I see the non-native species. I see the asphalt and the kids with their strollers, and all the hum of the city life there, and the way it looks like a very, very human-created landscape that could be anywhere. But then when I noticed in that case, I think there was a particular like a silver maple and maybe a cottonwood, if I’m remembering that at the time.

And I closed my eyes and I think back to those species are floodplain trees and live in very wet soils. And that probably was a riparian wetland there before it became a bike path. Closing my eyes and picturing and hearing the wood frogs and spotted salamanders breeding in that wetland there before it was turned into this bike path with all the kids and their strollers and such, and seeing that echoes of that ecosystem are still there. The soils beneath that bike path are still sort of created in the way that would facilitate those sorts of species.

Margaret: So as gardeners, when someone says, “What kind of soil do you have?” we are frequently talking about what we’ve almost “made” in our raised beds or something. It’s not… “What kind of soil do you have?” takes another level of meaning in the kind of explorations you’re talking about in this book. It’s really ancient and underlying and so forth. The thing that defined the place over a long period of history, yes?

Noah: Yeah. And the way I see it, too, it helps us maybe move away from good versus bad soil, but it’s like what is this soil? Maybe it isn’t perfect for the plant you had in mind for growing, but it tells a story of all that’s important about that place and all the plants that would’ve grown there naturally, and the things that it’s very good for something, and it came from a particular came a set of circumstances and there’s a story behind how that stuff came to be there.

Margaret: Are there places that we… So speaking of soil, the topography of a place, are there references, are there places where we go look, that we can get some of this old information, or are there surveys and are there… Just so that I know what references to recommend to people.

Noah: I mean, it depends on which layer you’re talking about. So at the larger scale, of course, there’s the USGS surficial geology maps or bedrock geology, both of those, like the official geology maps for your local… I was just looking at New York State has some published and you’ll see what are the glacial land forms and at a coarser resolution, your neighborhood kind of area, what’s created the soils. But then at a very local, like this side of the hill versus this side, are very small-scale like that bike path.

I mean, those aren’t necessarily going to be mapped on the geologic surveys, but you might have topographic surveys and stuff. And there may be some natural-communities inventories that might map some of those things. But at that scale, it’s more about knowing the trees and knowing the plants and knowing how land forms create micro little ecosystems.

Margaret: Like slope. You talk about slope in the book. I live on a hillside [laughter], so I don’t know if you live in a flat land or on a hillside or whatever, but what about slope? What does that tell you as the type of investigator, curious person, but with your knowledge that you are, what does slope tell you?

Noah: Well, I mean there’s… The biggest influence of slope or one of them is the angle, the aspect, which direction it’s facing. Is it facing south or is it facing north? And that has a big impact on the soils, as folks know. In the Northern Hemisphere, the sun is always in the southern part of the sky, so those south-facing slopes tend to dry out and be really hot. And the north-facing slopes are cooler and moister and create different conditions for different sets of species.

The slope itself creates drainages, and up higher on the slope you have less soil buildup. It tends to be an erosional zone. And then down at the bottom is where there’s a depositional zone. So you have more layers of soils and more towards the wetland soils more frequently down at the lower slopes. So there’s a lot of different elements that go into that.

Margaret: Right. And again, I’ve lived downhill for a long time and I don’t really think about it. I think about what… And I’m a layperson, but I think about what I call air drainage. I think about the fact that the town that we call “the flats” below me get colder in prolonged cold moments, like overnight and so forth, than I do because I think that air drains up over where I am or something. That’s my very, again, amateurish interpretation [laughter]. But I think about that, but I hadn’t really thought about the drainage area and then also like you said, what’s deposited that there’s less soil up there and more soil down below, and generally speaking and so forth.

Noah: It’s very context and site-specific, too. I mean, my house where I spent most of my time in Western Massachusetts, we live right on the shore of the glacial lake deposit. So 10,000 years ago, there was a glacial lake there, and down below in our yard, essentially lake bottom sediments. We walk up the hill and we get above lake level, and suddenly it’s glacial till and that change is really dramatic. There’s no rocks in our yard, but there’s lots of rocks up and above us.

Margaret: And that’s where I am. My neighbors all say, “Well, how do you grow all those plants? You have such rocky soil.” And I’m like, “No, the rocks didn’t land here.” [Laughter.] And yet they have them.

The book has the word trees, “These Trees Tell A Story” is the title. So you look at things when you come to a place, you look at things like whether the canopy trees and the understory trees are the same or different, for instance. Tell me a little bit about that, because that’s another interesting thing that I hadn’t really thought about being a closer observer of, and that’s silly, but I hadn’t.

Noah: No, me too. And it’s one of those patterns that it’s so easy to see once you start looking for it. And almost nobody really ever started out looking for that, and foresters know it. But basically the idea, it relates back to the idea of forest succession, which is if you clear a field, the certain set of species will come out into that field around Western Mass. In New York, often it’s white pines is one early successional species; for 100 years or so they’ll grow up, and then oaks will be the next generation, and then maybe hemlocks or sugar maples will be like that climax successional stages.

So there are these, over centuries, these sort of waves of different species that come through as a forest develops. So when you walk into a forest and you see the canopy is all white pines and the understory is all, say, red oaks, that if you pause for a second and think about what will happen in 100 years when those white pines die, it’ll be a canopy of red oaks. So that tells you that the forest is still in transition, and it tells you something about the past of that forest and something about where it’s going in the future. [Above, a red pine forest with hardwood understory.]

Margaret: In the start of the book, you tell the story of a couple. You take us in each chapter through to a different place, like I guess you took your class to a different place to solve mysteries every week. In the start of the book, you tell about this couple you know who are considering cutting down a bunch of trees in their yard for various reasons. They need more light, they want to have an orchard, and they need to install a drainage ditch because at least one of the trees is rooted where there’s persistent water, and the wet soil is damaging to the foundation of the house and so on.

But you talk to them about it. You get in a conversation with them about it, and you say… I’m going to quote in the book you say: “The pines, the oaks, the mud, the water, the land, it’s not random, but all part of a long unfolding story that you have a role in. Dig up the details,” you tell them, and then you suggest they look both into the past and into the future for details. So is that the exercise roughly?

Noah: Yeah. That is it. And for them, and before they start to fight their soils and just come in with their vision of what they wanted in their yard absent having… Before they’d even bought that house, start by looking at the landscape, looking at the canvas that they’re now living on, and really understanding it.

So that maybe the hope is that instead of fighting against it, we can find ways to work with it. Because understanding where it comes from, the long glacial history, and then as you manipulate your landscape, you’re going to be affecting it. You’re going to be affecting your neighborhood, and all the species that come to visit. So what is the context? What species are around and what might take refuge here or in your neighbor’s property?

Margaret: Right, because you talk about “the ripple effect” that each action we take has throughout the whole ecosystem, not just our property line, but way beyond that, that ripple effect.

Noah: Yeah. I have a nonprofit that I run down in Nashville, and a lot of people are so focused on their parcels and laws, and policy, and everything is focused on parcel by parcel, and “our house” by lot by lot. But really the species, the ecosystems, they’re not worried about these property lines and trying to work beyond those and work on regional area, that planning is really important.

Margaret: I guess it was probably Doug Tallamy at University of Delaware who told me the expression “conservation corridors,” that we’re all connected and these contiguous areas and so forth. It makes a corridor potentially for conservation efforts or to… Yeah.

One interesting thing is that in… And I don’t remember which chapter it’s in, but you also seem to express some nostalgia in a way or whatever for the thickets or hedgerows of what we all term invasives. Things like multiflora rose or bittersweet, oriental bittersweet; things that we see along the roadsides or maybe even have at the fringe of our own garden and things you call “messy invasive thickets.”

Yet, you also seem a little conflicted about just trying to beat them back and erase them as is the mandate these days. Can you just talk about that? When we’re looking at the “now” of a place, which frequently in a lot of the country because of all the disturbances in our history of our nation, well, every nation, has been changed, has been greatly changed, and is frequently a mix of native and non-native. And sometimes the non-natives have the upper hand.

Noah: I’m definitely conflicted. I have different minds on the different parts may think different things. And I will say in the broader discipline of ecology and conservation biology, there’s a recognition that there is no part of the world that is untouched by people. There isn’t like nature absent humans. And the future is going to be more and more impacted by global climate change and all sorts of things. So the future ecosystems that are going to be on this planet are probably a lot of novel ecosystems.

Ecosystems that have never existed in the past. And instead of the sort of our knee-jerk nostalgic historic way of conserving, which is just keep the things as they always have been in nature, recognizing that things are changing and things are going to change. And we need to view every little plot of land, whatever species happen to be there as those are the species that are there and they have certain values. They perform ecosystem services no matter where they came from.

And in the case of the multiflora rose thicket, I think you’re referring to the last chapter when I’m talking about this orchard, which is this invasive thicket that we might all want to just cut down because there’s no natives there. But at the same time, it’s providing habitat for bobcats [above] and fishers and all sorts of predators that we have some interest in protecting.

So there are values associated with any ecosystem. It’s doing things. It’s part of the flow of nature and we can use species for certain purposes and maybe natives are… They do support more bugs. They do feed more chickadees; studies have shown this. But the non-natives also can play a role, and just mowing them down as a knee-jerk reaction may not always be the right choice. And it all comes from our values and what we want to see around us.

Margaret: And what we probably also really… If we sit and really think about it, what’s going to happen next? Is there going to be stewardship, or are they all just going to come back. There’s a lot of next steps in those decisions.

Noah: Right. What are we replacing it with?

Margaret: Right. So you said you’re in Western Massachusetts when you’re not up at school in Maine teaching. What is your home property? What’s its history and hydrology? What kind of place is it? Tell us a little bit more about it.

Noah: Yeah. As I mentioned before, it’s set in into this hill slope that the house itself is below glacial lake level, from Glacial Lake Hitchcock 10 thousand years ago. And above it is all sort of glacial till. It’s a unique little mountain that has some old growth and some hemlock forest, some of which are getting attacked by woolly adelgid. And then the yard itself though is historically it was a cornfield before we moved in, long before. And so the soil has been tilled, but it’s really nice, soft soil because of the glacial history.

So it’s right on the edge of a forest, and the forest is second-generation of succession, although further up there’s older succession forest. But yeah, I don’t know.

Margaret: So you write in the book about something I’d never heard the expression before, but I kind of understood it, living in a rural place with boundaries between large-ish properties and so forth: You talk about witness trees. Tell us what a witness tree is, and do you have any witness trees at your place?

Noah: I haven’t actually worked myself with witness trees. It’s something that at Harvard Forest, the folks there did a lot of research with, and folks continue to work on. But essentially back in the day when they were doing land surveys, the property corner is, when you would do a survey at the corner, there would be a tree. What is the nearest large tree? And that would be witness to the document of the property boundary. And that would be written down in the deed, and those trees would typically be left, and they would be big old trees. And the species was recorded in those deeds. So we have a record going way back of something about the forest in place over time.

Margaret: It’s pretty amazing. I mean, now they put a pin in, right [laughter]? They put a metal pin in or just use a GPS or whatever that’s called.

Noah: And they may still put some rocks and things in, too. I’m not deep in the literature. I’ve heard people talk about this and write about it, but they would still record the nearest species.

Margaret: Another clue to the history of a place that you mentioned in the book that I never really thought about and made sense when… I think you even have a picture of it: Sometimes you said you have come upon a number of double-trunked trees in one place. Tell us about that.

Noah: So typically if an oak tree was to sprout from an acorn, it would grow up one stem and it would turn into one single-stem tree. But if you cut that tree down, then it’ll grow stump sprouts from the edges, and those will grow up and turn into trees themselves. So often when you see trees that are multi-stem like that either two, three or even more, that often suggests that the above-ground portion was killed. And in a lot of cases, you can tell that it was logging. If they’re a whole bunch, and they’re all the same age, and you can actually see the distance between those trunks, between the current trunks would be the edges of the old trunk, if that makes sense.

Margaret: Right.

Noah: Because the sprouts would come up at the edges. So you can see a logging history. I think there’s a picture in the book of a slope that was all cut. It was all these oaks that I think maybe 100 years ago were cut and re-sprouted. Not all trees do that. And there are other things that could kill that above-ground leader, but often that’s what it is.

Margaret: Yeah. I mean, it was just a fun one because it’s, again, this sort of forensic bit of history. It’s this indicator, but we could walk past it in a certain place and not know what it was.

Noah: It’s really common, too.

Margaret: Yeah, and that’s what you said.

Noah: I mean, I’m sort of child-minded in this whole thing, and I tend to have these very simple things that I know and I look for. I go into forest and I’m like, “O.K., is the understory the same species as the canopy? Are there lots of split-trunk trees around that look like there were the logging event?” And then I’m like, “O.K., yes or no.” And this tells me whether it seems like it was logged or it’s sort of in successional stages still, or whether it seems more as an older forest. There’s just a few of these very simple things that I tend to look at that are over and over again, I see. [Above, a tulip poplar forest with beech understory.]

Margaret: Yeah. You talked about slope and there’s the issue of elevation, which I was talking about and so forth. I have friends who are expert birders. They come at it from a different perspective. They’re reading the land in a different way, in a way, because I have one friend who I said something about having grouse, and she said, “Oh…” And then someone else who was there said, “Oh, I’ve never seen one. I only live a mile down the road.” And she said, the expert woman in the conversation said, “Well, that’s why you said a mile down the road, because you’re not in enough elevation. They don’t really like…” And she knew exactly about the birds of the place and these subtle gradations of difference. Right?

Noah: And with grouse, too, that’s when we’re doing snow tracking with me and Charley. Every time we’re in a white pine understory thicket or some really dense area, we’re like, “O.K., we’re going to find grouse and snowshoe hare here.” It’s like knowing where on the landscape and things are queuing in. And those thickets of white pine are coming from a sort of forest logging history, typically.

Margaret: The animals know how to read the land, don’t they?

Noah: Yeah.

Margaret: [Laughter.] Yeah. And up in the last couple of minutes, up in Maine, you’re getting to… How long have you been at the university there?

Noah: I started remotely from Western Mass mid-pandemic, and then moved up here, I guess last year. So two and a half years or so.

Margaret: O.K. So is it a very different kind of place? Is there something you just want to tell us a little bit about discovering that place?

Noah: I’m still getting to know it. It took me decades to know the landscape of Western Mass, and I was able to teach this course because I’d lived there for 20 years and I knew all these spots. I really could tell the stories. I think it’s so important to know your place and have that deep relationship with the land, like memories of people and animals and things that you’ve done on the landscape. And that’s how you get to understand the world.

For me, I’ve been here two years, and it’s similar species, but I still feel mainly an alien up here [laughter]. I’m sort of getting to know it. I can tell some stories. I have a couple spots, but I don’t feel like I have that deep relationship yet. It’s a different kind of world here.

Margaret: Yeah. It’s beautiful. The book is beautifully written. It’s called “These Trees Tell A Story,” and I’m learning a lot from it. It’s way over my head at the beginning, but I’m starting to grasp. So I love that. It’s making me stretch the way that when I first read yours and Charley’s “Tracks & Sign of Insects & Other Invertebrates,” I had no idea what it was talking about [laughter]. So good. You’ve opened my eyes again. Thank you very much.

Noah: Hey, well, thanks so much.

 

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I’LL BUY A COPY of “These Trees Tell A Story: The Art of Reading Landscapes” by Noah Charney for one lucky reader. All you have to do to enter is answer this question in the comments box below:

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prefer the podcast version of the show?

MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the June 19, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

As much as I adore an achingly ripe fig or a blood red cherry, I can buy them at the grocery store in a pinch.

But a truly unctuous peach? Impossible to find if you don’t have access to a tree.

I’ll level with you. The rewards don’t come without a cost. Growing peaches isn’t the easiest garden endeavor you’ll ever try your hand at.

These trees are plagued by pests, diseases, hungry herbivores, and late-season frosts.

But with hardier and tougher cultivars available and a little bit of know-how, you can have homegrown peach juice dripping down your wrist in no time.

This guide will help you make it happen. To get there, we’ll discuss the following:

Peaches will grow in Zones 4 to 9, but they do particularly well in Zones 6 and 7. Varietal selection is particularly region-dependent, and we’ll explore this more later in the article.

Peaches are self-pollinating, so while you may want to grow an orchard so all your loved ones can have bushels full, you don’t need more than one to get fruit.

But though they’re self-fruitful, you can always plant multiple cultivars to extend the harvest season. You could have fresh peaches from early spring through late summer!

By the way, if you’re trying to figure out how to grow nectarines and you landed here, most of the information in this guide applies to nectarines as well.

Nectarines are genetically similar except they lack the fuzz on the skin, and they usually have darker coloring, though not always.

Cultivation and History

The peach is a deciduous tree native to northwest China and it has been cultivated in the region for centuries.

Their cultivation has been documented dating at least 4,000 years back and genetic evidence shows that they were being cultivated thousands of years before that.

China continues to produce the majority of peaches and nectarines in the world.

The plants were brought to and cultivated in Japan around 4000 BC and India around 1700 BC.

In the wild, the trees can grow up to 23 feet tall, but cultivated trees rarely reach such heights.

Alexander the Great found peach seeds in Persia around 300 BC, and he and his armies carried them to Greece.

From there, they spread throughout Europe, and Europeans assumed they originated in Persia.

That’s actually where the specific epithet persica comes from, and the fruits were called Persian apples or plums at the time.

Peaches were brought to Florida by Spanish explorers in the 16th century, and the rest, as they say, is history.

The tree’s delicate blossoms are heralded for their beauty. These are similar to those produced by other close relatives, all in the Prunus genus – the fruiting cherries, flowering cherries, plums, nectarines, and almonds.

The half-inch to one-inch in diameter flowers bloom in various shades of orange, red, pink, and violet, and can be quite fragrant. They appear on the branches before the leaves emerge.

The blossoms can be so lovely that there are even peach trees that are grown solely as ornamentals.

And while Georgia fancies itself the peach capital of the universe – the Atlanta area in particular – California actually produces more of the fruit annually.

Peaches are a type of stone fruit (drupe), along with plums and cherries. The name describes the hard, stony covering around the seed, known as the endocarp. The fruits also contain the fleshy interior called the mesocarp, and the skin called the exocarp.

The endocarp is often used to create an almond-flavored persipan, which is a cheaper version of the almond-based marzipan. It shouldn’t come as any surprise that peaches and almonds are closely related.

The seeds inside the endocarp contain hydrocyanic acid, which is poisonous. One seed won’t kill you, but don’t eat lots of them intentionally or you could become extremely sick.

Peaches might taste like candy, but they’re extremely good for you. They contain antioxidants and anti-inflammatories like the phenolic compounds quercetin, catechins, and cyanidin.

You can loosely group the flavor of the fruits by the color of the flesh. Yellow flesh tends to be more acidic, and white flesh tends to be sweeter. The sweeter ones are sometimes called subacid types.

The trees develop their fruiting buds in the late summer, and they remain dormant until the tree experiences a certain number of cool days, which we’ll discuss in a bit.

After the extended chill, the fruit buds start to develop. The fruits must experience temperatures above 68°F to mature.

Propagation

Peaches are best propagated through cuttings or purchased plants.

While you can grow a fruit-bearing tree from a peach pit, it probably won’t be the exact same type of peach that you originally ate to get the pit.

As the product of sexual reproduction via pollen and ovules from potentially different sources, peaches will not necessarily grow true from seed.

Experiments in hybridization and creating new varieties can be fun, though this requires a lot of patience while you wait for the plant to mature.

Most commercially grown peach trees are grafted onto hardy and vigorous rootstock of related species, sometimes of dwarf varieties to contain the size of the new tree.

From Cuttings

Hardwood and semi-hardwood cuttings may be taken as a common method of peach propagation. This methods of asexual reproduction creates clones that are exact replicas of the parent.

Semi-hardwood cuttings tend to root better, but you have to keep the environment humid and they can’t tolerate wet feet. Hardwood cuttings are more forgiving but they take longer to root. It’s a sort of pick-your-poison situation.

Semi-hardwood cuttings should be taken in the early summer, while hardwood cuttings should be taken during the dormant season in late winter.

Hardwood cuttings need to be about a foot long and at least as thick as a pencil. Cut off any lower shoots and leave just two or three leaves attached at the top.

Softwood cuttings should be about eight inches long. They should be soft and newer but not green growth.

Make the cut at a 45-degree angle and place the cutting in water until you’re ready to plant it. Once you’re ready, dip the end in rooting hormone and place it in prepared soil outdoors for hardwood cuttings, or moist sand for softwood cuttings.

For softwood cuttings, the temperature must be between 55 and 77°F for rooting and the location should receive bright, indirect light or a few hours of morning sun.

Tent plastic over the softwood cuttings to hold moisture, or plan on misting several times a day. Keep the sand moist.

The soil for hardwood cuttings should be kept moist as well.

Harden off softwood cuttings in the spring first by removing the covering for a few weeks before transitioning the plants outside after the last predicted frost date. Leave the cutting outside for an hour in a sunny, protected area, then bring it back indoors.

Each following day, add an hour until the plant can be outside for a full eight hours. Then you can plant it as described below.

From Seedlings/Transplanting

Transplanting should be done in early spring when the tree is completely dormant. Any new growth is a sign that it’s too late to plant.

If you find a bargain sapling or a friend gives you one and it has new growth, don’t despair. You can plant it, but the tree will be stressed and probably won’t fruit the following year, assuming it’s old enough that it could produce fruit.

Dig a hole that’s a few inches deeper and wider than the root ball. Gently loosen the root ball and set it on a small mound of soil at the bottom of the hole, centering it in the hole.

Grafted plants should be situated so that the graft union is two inches above the soil level.

Carefully refill the hole with the soil you removed, to the same depth as the container the plant came in. If you bury more of the trunk than what was buried when you bought the tree, the plant could die.

Thoroughly water the newly planted sapling. This closes up any air gaps. Add more soil if necessary to create a smooth soil surface.

Plant about 18 feet apart for standard trees and closer to 10 feet apart for dwarf trees.

How to Grow

One of the biggest factors in finding success with growing peaches is in choosing the right location.

Peaches flower earlier in the spring than apples, plums, and cherries. That means that they’re more susceptible to late-season freezes that can destroy the flowers and, subsequently, your crop.

In areas that are prone to late-season frosts, like Colorado and Utah, grow peaches near a cement or brick wall to reflect some heat back onto the plant.

You can also plant on the upper parts of slopes or hills. Avoid low-lying areas, which typically experience more frost.

Choose a sunny spot that won’t be shaded at any point by other trees or buildings. Some trees can adapt to a little bit of shade, but peaches won’t produce in anything but full sun.

If you have to compromise, make sure the tree gets early morning sunlight because the sun helps to dry the dew. While dew looks pretty, it can lead to fungal disease.

Choose a spot with deep, well-drained soil with a pH around 6.5. Sandy loam is best. If you don’t have perfect soil, work in lots of well-rotted compost. Compost adds nutrients and it can loosen up clay and improve drainage in sand, so it’s the do-it-all soil amendment.

Amend the soil at least two feet deep and six feet in diameter. It’s a lot of digging, but it will pay off.

If your soil drains poorly, don’t plant peaches. There’s no way around it, these trees are too sensitive to excess root moisture, and they will rot.

In the best-case scenario, they will be stunted and perform poorly. Worst case, they’ll die.

If you didn’t add compost, scatter one cup of 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer at least 18 inches away from the trunk of newly planted trees.

Better yet, do a soil test in the fall before planting and amend your soil to alter the pH as needed. In the spring, before planting, add any lacking nutrients well in advance of planting.

A peach tree needs about 36 inches of water annually, or about three inches per month. Water is more vital during the growing season, and the tree needs less water during the dormant season.

What does that look like in real life? If you get frequent summer soakings – every 10 days or so – you may not have to do supplemental waterings once trees are established.

If, on the other hand, you live in Austin, Texas, where it only rains once or twice during the summer, you’ll need to bring out the soaker hose.

Of course, all this doesn’t help you to figure out when to water unless you have a rain gauge. These tools are affordable and extremely useful.

Water is best given infrequently. You want to water deep and less often rather than watering shallowly and frequently.

Young trees will need to be watered more often, and the top few inches of soil shouldn’t be allowed to dry out completely before watering again.

Just don’t overwater. You want the soil to feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not muddy or soggy.

Fertilizing

Young trees up to five years of age need one pound of granulated 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer in early spring after the last predicted frost date and again in early summer.

 As the tree matures, feed it two pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer twice a year — once in early spring and again in early summer – throughout its lifespan.

I highly recommend you test your soil once a year. It’s not expensive, and it gives you important insight into your soil’s makeup. At the very least, test every few years.

If you find that your soil is deficient in a specific nutrient, add it in addition to the 10-10-10 fertilizer, unless you find the soil contains excessive nutrients. Then, you’ll need to create a custom plan according to the test results.

In some areas, iron deficiency is common. A lack of iron causes leaf chlorosis, with yellowing between the leaf veins, as well as smaller sized fruits. So it’s not something to mess around with!

Sometimes soil can have sufficient iron, but it isn’t available to the tree because of a lack of water. Keep the soil sufficiently moist to ensure the tree can access the iron. Chelated iron can increase iron levels.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun, preferably at the top of a sloping area.
• Trees need about three inches of water per month, with more in summer and less in winter.
• Feed twice a year with granulated 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning is super important. Peaches produce best when they have a vase or open center shape.

Most young trees found at nurseries are already pruned to shape, so you just need to plant and maintain the shape.

If you buy a stick-straight sapling with a few branches sticking out here and there, you’ll need to provide some shape at home.

You don’t need to do much other than remove crowded, crossing branches during the first three years of the tree’s life.

Then, in the fourth year, cut the leader (the tallest, central branch) at the nearest lateral branch or bud.

Prune any lower branches off until you have five to seven branches total. For the next two years, remove any smaller branches that try to grow.

After that, remove any water sprouts, and any diseased, broken, or crossing branches, to maintain the shape. This should be done right after your harvest, or in the dormant season in late winter.

You’ll be extremely popular with your local wildlife. Just be sure to clean up any fallen fruit at the end of the season to prevent disease and avoid supporting rat populations.

Another important aspect of growing peaches is the need – however difficult it is – to thin the fruit when they are three-quarters to one inch in diameter.

Trees naturally produce more fruit than they can carry, and if you don’t thin the branches they can break, or the peaches will be small and less flavorful.

Pluck off excess fruit so you are left with a fruit every three to five inches or so, depending on the cultivar.

You’re going to feel like you’re removing a lot, and it seem like a shame to do such a thing.

But trust me, you want your tree to devote its energy to growing the best harvest possible, rather than spreading its resources inadequately among far too many little fruits.

Toss them in the compost and just think of it as contributing to the next year’s crop.

Don’t till under the trees since the roots tend to be shallow.

Cultivars to Select

There are hundreds of peach cultivars, which can make selecting one seem overwhelming!

It always pays to chat with the experts at a local nursery or agricultural extension to learn about which ones grow well in your area. Some cultivars will thrive in the humid heat of the south, and others will do best in the cooler conditions of the northern latitudes.

It’s important to select a variety that is known to do well in your area. Peach trees have very specific chilling requirements in order to break dormancy and begin flowering.

What does this mean? Each variety needs a certain number of chilling hours below a particular temperature. For example, ‘Bicentennial’ requires 750 hours under 45°F each winter in order to bloom, whereas ‘Gulfking’ needs only 350 hours under 45°F.

If you choose a cultivar that needs fewer hours of chilling than what commonly occurs in your area, your tree might start blooming during a January or February warm spell.

And then a subsequent cold snap could kill all of your blooms, meaning you’ll have no peaches when harvest season rolls around.

You should also choose winter-hardy types if your region experiences severe freezes in late winter, which can kill the developing buds. Cultivars such as ‘Redhaven’ are known for being hardy enough to survive and produce fruits even after severe late freezes.

Sometimes, even if you have the right cultivar for your area, a late frost kills your blossoms anyway. Your best bet is to consult with your county extension agent to learn which varieties typically do well where you live.

Peaches are divided into freestone or clingstone types. Freestone just means the pit isn’t attached to the flesh and can easily be removed. Clingstones are more popular for canning and freestones are more popular for fresh eating.

Not to confuse the issue, but there are also semi-cling varieties, which are somewhere in between, though most growers don’t worry about those. They just call them clingstones.

Managing Pests and Disease

Peaches are so incredibly delicious, and the trees themselves are beautiful. But there is a serious downside to growing peaches.

They have a higher-than-average susceptibility to disease and pests. If you don’t experience a problem, you are in the lucky minority.

Don’t let that turn you away. The bright side is that because pests and disease are so common, we’ve become pretty adept at dealing with these issues.

Some people mistake sunscald for a disease, but this is caused by winter wind and sun damage. It results in cracks, discoloration, or damage on the southwest part of the trunk.

This damage leaves the tree open to pests and diseases. If you experience this issue, wrap your trees in burlap during the winter from the soil line to the lowest branches.

We also need to note that while peaches start producing quickly, they don’t last long.

Commercial growers replace their trees every decade or so, while home garden specimens last about 20 years.

If your tree is reaching its second decade in life and you find it isn’t producing well anymore, it might just be an age issue and not any type of pest or disease.

Let’s talk about the first challenge: herbivores.

Herbivores

Squirrels, rats, and birds will eat both immature and mature peaches.

While rats are usually more of a problem with fallen fruit, they can and will climb the tree and eat or carry off the fruits. The same goes for squirrels. Birds won’t carry off the fruit, but they’ll peck at it, rendering it inedible to humans.

There isn’t much you can do about these critters except plant enough trees to satisfy your needs. Clean up any fallen fruit and use netting if you’re determined to prevent pecking.

Insects

In addition to the insects on this list, you may occasionally encounter tarnished plant bugs, stink bugs, fruit moths, and European red mites. Here are the most common and damaging pests:

Aphids

Aphids are common garden pests, and they’re especially common on peach trees.

There’s even an aphid named for their favorite source of food: the green peach aphid (Myzus persicae). Mealy plum aphids (Hyalopterus pruni) are also common.

When these small sapsuckers feed on trees it causes a host of symptoms, from curled, yellowed leaves to sooty mold thanks to deposits of sticky honeydew, stunted growth, and dropping foliage.

Dormant spray can help suppress populations, and beneficial insects are vital.

Learn more about controlling aphids in our guide.

Earwigs

European earwigs (Forficula auricularia) can’t pass up a peachy meal. They will chomp their way through the leaves of the tree at night.

Once the peaches start to ripen, they’ll start devouring the fruits in addition to the foliage.

These beetles eat the leaves of the plant and they’re pretty easy to identify.

If you spot the metallic, half-inch-long insects, you might just opt to ignore them. But that’s not always possible, especially if the infestation is bad.

If you can’t stand it, read our guide to managing Japanese beetle infestations to learn more.

Peach Tree Borers

Peach tree borers (Synanthedon exitiosa and S. pictipes) suck. Like, suck with a capital S-U-C-K.

They’re the most destructive pests of peaches and other stone fruits and they can be a nightmare to control. The adults look like wasps, but it’s the larvae that cause all the trouble.

The larvae eat the wood of the lower part of the tree and the roots during the spring, leaving behind extensive damage.

Peach Twig Borers

Peach twig borers (Anarsia lineatella) are the larvae of moths that feed on leaves, blossoms, and young shoots. The second generation will feed on the fruits, entering at the stem end.

The half-inch-long worms start out white with a black head and transition to dark brown as they mature.

Apply a product that contains spinosad, such as Monterey Garden Insect Spray, which we discuss above, or a product that contains Bacillus thuringiensis v. kurstaki.

Whichever you choose, timing is crucial.

Spray the tree when the blossoms are present and again when the fruits are just beginning to ripen. 

Bonus! If you spray with Btk during bloom time, you can also reduce the likelihood of brown rot.

Learn more about peach twig borers in our guide.

Plum Curculio

Plum curculios (Conotrachelus nenuphar) are ugly brown snout beetles that can be extremely destructive in orchards.

The quarter-inch-long beetle feeds on the young fruits of stone fruit trees, causing catfacing.

The females lay their eggs in the fruit, and the resulting larvae burrow into the flesh. This causes scarring, rotting, and early fruit drop.

Both of these small sapsuckers feed on the sap of the trees, and while they might be small, they can do a lot of damage.

Most people don’t realize they’re dealing with scale unless they’ve experienced the problem before.

That’s because the tree will look kind of stunted, wilty, or sad, but when you look close, you don’t see what you think are insects. You see little lumps on the bark that don’t move.

They also tend to disappear for years at a time and then make a brief comeback.

We have a guide explaining why a broom and some patience are your best bets for dealing with these caterpillars.

Disease

Fungal problems are unfortunately common with peaches, and the best treatment is prevention.

Be sure to remove all fruit at the end of the season (if the squirrels don’t do it for you). Clean up fallen fruit, leaves, and other potentially fungus-harboring materials from the ground around the tree.

In addition to the following issues, watch for crown gall and rhizopus rot.

Bacterial Canker

The bacteria Pseudomonas syringae causes oozing cankers to form at injury sites or leaf or flower buds.

These cankers release a honey-like gum and can strangle the branch, causing it to die beyond the canker. Inside, underneath the bark, the tree turns sour-smelling and rotten.

The disease favors high humidity or rainy weather and moderate temperatures of 55 to 75°F, which means spring is its favorite time of year. It also prefers trees that are already weakened, and can spread on garden tools.

Since there’s no known cure, the main method of control is to prune off dead areas and do your best to keep your tree healthy.

To avoid bacterial canker, prune trees to improve air circulation and plant them an appropriate distance apart.

Clean your tools before using them near your trees and clean up any debris around your plants in the fall.

Bacterial Spot

There are several diseases that can cause spots to form on the leaves and fruits, but bacterial spot stands out because it causes angular gray spots on the underside of the leaves.

These appear water-soaked and eventually turn purple before rotting. On fruits, these can ooze a brown gum.

Caused by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris, it needs moisture to breed and spread, so it’s rare to see bacterial spot during dry summers. Moist springs, however, are its heyday.

Brown Rot

Brown rot is extremely common and damaging. It’s caused by the fungus Monilinia fructicola and results in gray spores that rot the fruit.

Before that happens, the blossoms on the tree might turn mushy and brown, and twigs may develop cankers marked with brown spores.

The affected fruit might become mummified, and those fruits which harbor the fungus enable the disease to spread the following year.

All mummified and fallen fruits should be removed and disposed of.

Any insect that feeds on the fruit, leaves, or wood causes damage that leaves the plant exposed to the fungal pathogens that cause this infection.

Fungal Gummosis

Gummosis is one of those diseases that is hard to mistake for anything else.

When the fungi that cause it (Leucostoma persoonii and L. cincta) are around, the tree will exhibit oozing gummy areas on the wood. These fungi look for wounds or damage through which to enter.

Any sort of injury, from pruning to insect damage, invites this disease in, and treatment is sadly difficult. Gummosis tends to be more prevalent in warmer locations and no cultivar is immune to Leucostoma fungi.

We have a guide to help you learn how to prevent or treat gummosis.

Note that fungal gummosis is caused by a fungal pathogen, but you might hear people refer to gummosis as any sort of gummy-like sap oozing from a tree.

In this case, we simply mean that an injury has allowed the pathogen to enter the tree and caused the oozing symptom.

Leaf Curl

Leaf curl is a fungal disease caused by Taphrina deformans. As the name suggests, it causes the leaves to wrinkle and curl up.

Those leaves might also develop yellow, orange, or red patches, and the wrinkled, puckered areas might also form a white coating.

The affected leaves may turn brown and die or they may fall off the tree.

Copper fungicide should be sprayed on the tree every year just after the leaves have dropped to help prevent the fungus from attacking again in the following year.

Phony Peach Disease

A healthy-looking tree that suddenly stops producing fruit might be infected by the bacteria Xylella fastidiosa subsp. multiplex, which causes phony peach disease (PPD).

Once infected, there is no known cure, but prevention is possible. Learn about this disease in our guide.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is caused by the pathogens Podosphaera leucotricha and Sphaerotheca pannosa, which are fungi that attack plants in the Rosaceae family.

It causes a white or gray powdery growth on leaf and flower buds, followed by misshapen fruits.

Young fruits will start to exhibit green spots, which enlarge and turn brown as the fruit matures.

Sometimes you can just peel and eat the inside of the fruit, but other times the fruit will crack open and rot.

We have a whole guide to scab to help you learn how to identify and address this fungal issue.

Harvesting

It’s picking time! Peaches are ready to harvest when:

• They’re soft
• There’s no more green color on the fruit
• They come off easily with a slight twist

You can’t always go by color unless you’re familiar with the mature color of the cultivar you’re growing. Some peaches are almost white when mature and others need to be deep orange-red.

The fruits at the top and around the outside of the tree usually ripen first.

Be careful as you remove the fruit, as it bruises easily. If you do bruise a fruit, process or eat it right away because it won’t keep.

Pro tip: if you’re picking peaches and you can’t resist taking a bite, just loudly announce that “this one is bruised” and you can’t get in trouble for sampling the goods before the job is done.

You’re doing your part to prevent a bruised fruit from rotting and ruining any nearby fruits, and you deserve to be rewarded with a juicy mouthful.

You also can’t rely on the cultivar-specific recommended timing to tell you when to harvest. Nursery tags will often tell you that a certain cultivar should be ready by mid-August, for instance.

Peaches may be ready any time from late April (such as ‘Flordaking’) to late September (‘Jefferson’), but the timing will differ depending on your region and this year’s weather as well as the cultivar you choose.

When in doubt, take a bite of one.

And don’t worry if the fruit doesn’t fully ripen on the tree. Peaches are climacteric fruits, which means that the fruit itself produces ethylene, which aids in ripening.

This process continues even after you remove the fruit from the tree. So, if you happen to pluck a fruit that is a little underripe, just give it some time. It will soften up.

Of course, that also means the fruit will continue to soften past the point of peak ripeness, and you’ll be left with a soggy mess if you don’t use them in time.

But if you’ve ever eaten your average grocery store peach, which is typically harvested when immature, you know they never achieve the soft, sweetness of fruits allowed to mature on the tree.

Preserving

Don’t put those fresh peaches in the fridge!

I mean, it’s your life, and you can do what you want, but peaches turn mealy when you subject them to lower temperatures. Instead, store them in a cool, dark area for a few days at most.

You can also wash and slice the fruits and dry them in a dehydrator, or turn them into fruit leather.

Peach jam is a piece of summer that you can eat during the dreary winter days. Whip some up using this recipe from our sister site, Foodal.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Everyone knows how incredible peaches are fresh off the tree or baked into pies, cobblers, and cakes. As a topping or ingredient in ice cream, they’re pretty hard to replicate.

But don’t let the peach love end there. These incredible fruits can be used in savory recipes as well. Use them to top meat, fill empanadas, or in a savory salad.

Ever had peach slices on pizza? Make it happen! This spinach and goat cheese pizza with a kefir and spelt crust from Foodal makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

Or make a quick snack with sweet peaches, creamy ricotta, and spicy basil on flatbread, also from Foodal.

To bring peaches to the summer dinner table, check out Foodal’s chipotle peach topping for chicken.

Amaranth is a source of beauty, color & food in my low desert summer garden. I love seeing the brightly-colored seed heads shine in the late afternoon sun. The birds and other pollinators are drawn to it as well. Amaranth does more than double duty in my garden as it also yields edible leaves and grain, and its stems are magnificent in cut flower arrangements. Learn how to grow amaranth, and consider adding it to your spring and monsoon planting list.

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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Amaranth History & Information

There is a long history of Amaranth being grown in Arizona and surrounding areas. Among others, the Aztecs considered amaranth a significant crop, receiving tribute payments from neighboring provinces and believing it to be the “food of Gods.” Indigenous people in the Southwest and Northern Mexico still gather wild amaranth greens, symbolizing the monsoon rains. For seeds and to learn more about the history of amaranth, visit NaitveSeeds.Org. 

Amaranth (and sunflowers) are considered “another sister” in a “Three Sisters Garden.” The tall stalks attract pollinators, provide shade, and are an additional trellis for the beans to climb. 

Amaranthus is often monoecious, which means it has individual flowers that are either male or female, but both can be found on the same plant. The plant is pollinated by the wind. Amaranth is an annual or short-lived perennial. In some areas, amaranth is often considered a weed, and care should be taken to remove the seed head if you do not wish amaranth to reseed in your garden.

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Amaranth Varieties to Try

There are different types of amaranth, with some being more suitable for consumption while others are often ornamental. 

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Where and When to Plant Amaranth

Amaranth thrives in warm temperatures and full sun (at least 6 hours) but benefits from afternoon shade in hot summer climate areas. It grows best in nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. Amend soil with compost before planting. 

Plant amaranth seeds directly in the garden once the soil has warmed up in the spring. Barely cover seeds with 1/4” (6mm) of soil. Thin plants to 12-18” (30-45cm) apart, depending on the variety.

Alternatively, you can start the seeds indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date, then transplant seedlings outdoors once the soil has warmed up.

Low desert of Arizona planting dates: March – April and July – August with the monsoon moisture.

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How to Grow Amaranth and Care for It as It Grows

Learning how to grow amaranth is fairly simple. Here’s what to do once it begins growing:

• Stake plants if necessary. I use bamboo poles. 

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Amaranth Harvesting Tips

Begin harvesting leaves as soon as they’re big enough to eat. Cut the leaves at the base of the stem, leaving the plant intact. Small tender leaves are best for fresh eating; larger leaves are best cooked.

If you’re growing amaranth for its grains, harvest the seed head before it dries and drops the seeds. (Fallen seeds may mean you’ll have amaranth volunteers popping up for years to come.) Place the seed head in a paper sack. Once dry, shake the seed heads to remove the seeds, winnow them to remove any chaff, and store them in a dry, cool place for future use.

Harvest amaranth for cut flowers when the seed heads are large, and the color intensifies. Strip bottom leaves to prevent wilting. The stems last 7-10 days in a vase with a floral preservative. 

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Uses for Amaranth

• Amaranth leaves are rich in vitamins and minerals. Eat fresh or cook like spinach. 
• The grain is gluten-free and a “complete protein” (contains all of the essential amino acids), making it an excellent substitute for wheat. Use the grain to make porridge, bread, or even popcorn. 
• Amaranth adds a vibrant pop of color and texture to cut flower arrangements.

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By Guest Author John Hammond

What are stone fruits?

Stone fruits are those that have a large pit inside of the fruit – referred to as a “stone”. Some refer to the stone as the seed, but it isn’t – the seed is actually inside the stone. Examples of stone fruits include apricots, cherries, plums, coconuts, peaches, dates, mangoes, and olives.

What organic methods can be used to prevent fungal diseases in stone fruits?

As a fruit tree grower, I understand the importance of preventing fungal diseases in stone fruits. These diseases can wreak havoc on fruit trees, compromising their health and productivity. Thankfully, there are several organic methods that can be employed to combat fungal diseases and ensure the well-being of a stone fruit orchard.

Cultural practices

One of the fundamental organic approaches to disease prevention is using proper cultural practices. Good orchard hygiene goes a long way in preventing the spread of fungal pathogens. Regularly removing fallen leaves, picking out and picking up diseased or dropped fruit, pruning dead or diseased branches, avoiding overhead watering, and ensuring adequate air circulation within the tree can minimize the conditions that favor fungal growth.

Pruning and sanitation

As a seasoned fruit tree grower, I have witnessed firsthand the transformative effects of pruning and sanitation on the health and productivity of stone fruit orchards.

Pruning is a critical cultural practice. By removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches, we can eliminate potential entry points for fungal pathogens. Proper pruning techniques also promote better air circulation within the canopy, allowing the foliage to dry quickly after rain or irrigation. This reduces the amount of time moisture lingers on the leaves, creating an environment less conducive to fungal growth.

Sanitation practices go hand in hand with pruning to control fungal diseases. Proper sanitation is the removal and disposal of fallen leaves, fruit mummies, and other plant debris from the orchard floor. These materials serve as potential sources of fungal spores, which can infect healthy fruit trees.

Regularly cleaning and disinfecting pruning tools also helps to reduce fungal diseases. Tools can harbor fungal spores and other pathogens, and if not properly sanitized, they can inadvertently spread diseases from branch to branch and tree to tree. A simple practice of wiping tools with a disinfectant solution or dipping them in a bleach solution between cuts helps prevent the transmission of fungal pathogens.

Timing is crucial when implementing pruning and sanitation practices. Pruning during the dormant season is ideal, as the absence of foliage allows for better visibility and access to dead, damaged or diseased branches. Destroy pruned materials promptly (do not compost) to prevent the accumulation of infectious spores. Sanitation should be practiced throughout the year, with particular attention paid to fallen leaves and diseased fruit.

Irrigation

Implementing a well-thought-out irrigation system is crucial for organic disease management. Overhead watering, such as sprinklers, can promote the spread of fungal spores by creating moist conditions on the leaves and fruit surfaces. Instead, opt for drip irrigation or soaker hoses that deliver water directly to the soil, minimizing wet leaves. This practice helps reduce the likelihood of fungal infections and supports healthier tree growth.

Spacing your trees

Proper spacing between stone fruit trees is another cultural practice that helps with disease prevention. Sufficient spacing allows for adequate air circulation, which helps to dry foliage and minimize the chance of fungal spores finding favorable conditions to grow and multiply. It is important to consider the mature size of the trees when planting, allowing ample room for the canopy to develop without crowding neighboring trees.

Mulching

Mulching is a valuable cultural practice that can provide numerous benefits, including disease control. Organic mulch materials, such as wood chips or straw, create a barrier between the soil and the fruit, reducing the likelihood of soil-borne fungal pathogens splashing onto the fruit during rain or irrigation. Mulch also helps regulate soil moisture, preventing excessive wetness that can contribute to fungal disease development.

Proper nutrition

Promoting tree vigor through proper nutrition and soil health is crucial. Organic fertilizers, rich in essential nutrients, can strengthen the tree’s natural defense mechanisms, making them more resilient to fungal infections. Conducting soil tests to assess nutrient levels and pH can guide the application of organic amendments to optimize soil conditions for healthy tree growth.

Monitor the tree or orchard

Regularly monitoring and scouting the orchard (or the area round your tree) are essential cultural practices for disease control. By inspecting the trees for early signs of fungal infections, such as leaf spots or fruit rot, immediate action can be taken to reduce the spread of the disease. Prompt removal and disposal of infected plant parts, coupled with appropriate organic treatments if necessary, can prevent the disease from spreading further and affecting the entire orchard.

Organic fungicides

Organic fungicides derived from natural sources can also be effective in managing fungal diseases. One of the most commonly used organic fungicides in stone fruit orchards is copper-based sprays. Copper has long been recognized for its fungicidal properties and is widely used in organic farming. They are particularly effective against diseases like peach leaf curl, bacterial spot, and brown rot. It is important, however, to use copper fungicides judiciously, as excessive applications can lead to copper accumulation in the soil, which may have adverse effects on soil health, soil pH, and beneficial microorganisms.

Organic growers also use biological fungicides derived from naturally occurring microorganisms:

Bacillus subtilis

When applied to stone fruit trees, Bacillus subtilis creates a protective barrier on the plant surface, preventing fungal pathogens from establishing. It is effective against diseases like brown rot and canker. Moreover, Bacillus subtilis is non-toxic to humans, animals, and beneficial insects, making it an excellent choice.

Trichoderma harzianum

Another promising biological fungicide is Trichoderma harzianum, a naturally occurring fungus. Trichoderma harzianum colonizes the rhizosphere and root system, inhibiting the growth of pathogenic fungi. It is particularly effective against soil-borne pathogens like Armillaria root rot and Rhizoctonia root rot.

Essential oils

In recent years, essential oils derived from plants have gained attention as potential organic fungicides. For example, extracts from neem oil, derived from the seeds of the neem tree, have been shown to exhibit antifungal properties. Neem oil disrupts fungal cell membranes, inhibiting their growth and reproduction. It is effective against diseases such as powdery mildew and brown rot. Neem oil is biodegradable, non-toxic to humans and animals, and poses minimal risk to beneficial insects.

Multiple ingredient organic fungicides

Apart from these specific fungicides, there are also organic fungicide formulations that combine multiple active ingredients. These formulations often contain a combination of natural compounds and plant extracts that work synergistically to control fungal diseases. They provide a broader spectrum of disease control and offer improved efficacy against challenging pathogens.

Soil Amendments

When it comes to organic fruit tree cultivation, the health and vitality of the soil cannot be underestimated. As a seasoned fruit tree grower, I have come to appreciate the crucial role that soil amendments play in preventing fungal diseases in stone fruits.

Soil amendments can help with disease prevention. Organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, improves soil structure and enhances its ability to retain moisture while promoting beneficial microbial activity. Healthy soil conditions help to fortify the tree’s natural defenses, reducing their susceptibility to infections.

The presence of organic matter in the soil also encourages the growth of beneficial microorganisms. These microscopic allies play a vital role in maintaining soil health and balance. Certain beneficial bacteria and fungi have the ability to suppress fungal pathogens by either outcompeting them for resources or directly inhibiting their growth. By nurturing a diverse and thriving microbial community through the addition of soil amendments, we create an ecosystem that naturally combats fungal diseases.

Organic matter also helps to regulate soil moisture levels. It acts as a sponge, absorbing excess water during periods of heavy rain and slowly releasing it during dry spells. Maintaining proper soil moisture is vital in preventing fungal diseases, as many fungi thrive in damp conditions.

Soil amendments contribute to the overall long-term health and sustainability of the soil. By adding organic matter regularly, we improve soil structure and fertility, which in turn promotes a balanced ecosystem. A healthy soil ecosystem encourages the growth of beneficial organisms that naturally suppress fungal diseases. It also supports the growth of beneficial plants, such as cover crops or companion plants, which can contribute to disease prevention.

Biological controls

Beneficial organisms such as predatory mites or beneficial fungi can be used to combat specific fungal pathogens. These natural allies prey on the harmful fungi or compete for resources, effectively suppressing the target fungi populations and preventing disease development.

Predatory mites

One notable example of a biological control method is the use of predatory mites. These tiny arachnids are natural enemies of various pest species, including some fungal pathogens. Predatory mites actively seek out and feed on the harmful fungi, reducing their populations.

Beneficial fungi

Another biological control is beneficial fungi. Some species of fungi, known as mycoparasites, possess the remarkable ability to attack and destroy fungal pathogens. These mycoparasitic fungi invade the harmful fungi, competing for resources and ultimately leading to their demise.

Trichoderma species are widely recognized for their antagonistic properties against fungal pathogens. These beneficial fungi colonize the root zone, establishing a protective barrier that prevents the colonization of harmful fungi. Through their competitive interactions and production of antifungal compounds, Trichoderma species effectively suppress fungal diseases in stone fruits.

Beneficial bacteria

Some strains of bacteria have been found to produce compounds that inhibit the growth of fungal pathogens. These bacteria can be applied to the tree as a spray or incorporated into the soil, providing long-term protection against fungal diseases.

Biological control methods are not a one-size-fits-all solution. They require careful consideration and understanding of the target pathogens, as well as the beneficial organisms being introduced. Select the appropriate species or strains of beneficial organisms that are effective against the specific fungal diseases affecting your stone fruits. Proper application techniques and timing should be followed to maximize success.

Unlike synthetic chemical treatments, biological controls do not leave harmful residues or negatively impact the environment. They work in harmony with nature, promoting a balanced ecosystem within the orchard. But their effectiveness can vary depending on the specific disease, environmental conditions, and cultural practices. Biological controls should be combined with other organic strategies, such as cultural practices and disease-resistant varieties, to achieve comprehensive disease management.

Plant disease-resistant varieties

As an experienced fruit tree grower with a passion for organic cultivation, I am thrilled to share my insights on effective disease-resistant stone fruit varieties that can be grown organically. Selecting the right cultivars minimizes the risk of disease outbreaks and ensures the health and productivity of your trees. These are a few noteworthy stone fruit varieties that have shown excellent disease resistance in organic growing conditions:

1. Reliance Peach (Prunus persica): Reliance Peach is a remarkable variety known for its exceptional resistance to peach leaf curl. This cultivar thrives in organic orchards and produces flavorful, juicy peaches.
2. Saturn Peach (Prunus persica): The Saturn Peach, also known as the Donut Peach, is an outstanding variety with good resistance to bacterial spot, a prevalent disease in stone fruits. This unique peach variety produces flat, disc-shaped fruits with a sweet, juicy flavor.
3. Elberta Peach (Prunus persica): Elberta Peach is a classic variety renowned for its excellent disease resistance and versatility. It is resistant to multiple fungal diseases, including peach leaf curl and brown rot. Elberta peaches are large, juicy, and aromatic.
4. Redhaven Peach (Prunus persica): Redhaven Peach is a widely grown variety known for its vigorous growth and remarkable resistance to brown rot. With its firm, flavorful fruits and strong disease resistance, Redhaven is an ideal choice for organic growers.
5. Flavor Grenade Pluot (Prunus domestica x Prunus salicina): A cross between plum and apricot, Flavor Grenade Pluot stands out not only for its exceptional flavor but also for its resistance to bacterial canker. This variety produces elongated, green-skinned fruits with a flavor reminiscent of tropical fruits.

Intercropping and companion planting

As a dedicated fruit tree grower, I am always on the lookout for innovative organic strategies to control fungal diseases in stone fruits. One approach that has caught my attention is intercropping or companion planting, which involves growing different plant species together to enhance the overall health and resilience of the orchard ecosystem. For example, interplanting stone fruits with aromatic herbs like basil or marigold can repel some fungal pathogens.

Intercropping and companion planting offer a range of benefits that can contribute to the control of fungal diseases in stone fruits. One advantage lies in the manipulation of the microenvironment. By carefully selecting companion plants, we can create an ecosystem that is less favorable to fungal pathogens. Certain companion plants possess natural defense mechanisms that repel or suppress the growth of fungi, helping to reduce disease pressure on stone fruit trees. Companion plants like garlic, onion, or chives contain natural compounds that have antifungal properties, which can inhibit the growth and spread of fungal pathogens when grown alongside stone fruit trees.

In addition to altering the microenvironment, intercropping and companion planting can also enhance biodiversity within the orchard. A diverse ecosystem promotes a healthy balance of beneficial insects, such as ladybugs or lacewings, which are natural predators of fungal pests. These helpful insects contribute to the biological control of diseases by consuming the pests that transmit fungal pathogens, effectively reducing their population and limiting disease spread.

While intercropping and companion planting hold promise as organic strategies to control fungal diseases in stone fruits, it is important to note that they should not be seen as standalone solutions. These techniques work best when integrated with other cultural practices and disease management strategies. Regular monitoring for disease symptoms, maintaining proper orchard hygiene, and implementing organic fungicides when necessary are all important components of an effective disease control program.

Author’s Bio: John Hammond is a seasoned backyard fruit tree grower with a degree in horticulture. Hailing from the Midwest, John’s love for gardening and cultivating fruit trees began at a young age. He is an expert in his field and his advice is highly sought-after by fellow gardeners and fruit tree enthusiasts. John continues to push the boundaries of fruit tree cultivation and has recently started experimenting with new grafting techniques.

Joseph Simcox, the Botanical Explorer, left us a comment about landrace watermelons in Africa:

Hello father and son,
Joseph Lofthouse is unique in this day in age only because we have grown so accustomed to “dividing and conquering” ( so to speak) in the modern worlds that we live. Growing melons like Moon and Stars or Desert King is not a limitation in itself but rather a fascination with character and consistency. When your plant the seeds of a “homogenous” variety you are pretty assured of getting the same delight. Now in many cases these were selections originally from landraces. I see endless fun in throwing together vastly different selections and am all for doing so. The keen eye of humans has been preferential in selecting out particular traits since times long passed. Recently I myself was on a ” wild goose chase” of sorts …in Botswana and Zimbabwe buying up watermelons along my wanderings, taking photos and notes and eating and saving the seeds! What landrace treasures I found and what genetic gems! Among things that dawned on me… Less groomed (I’ll just call them more fecund) melons) are chuck full of seeds..as we sat at the breakfast and dinner tables eating seedy melons a provocative thought hit me…eating seedy melons is a pastime invitation, a time to savor and reflect,; a time to slow down and enjoy! 

This morning I posted a short clip of my son Ezekiel walking through his landrace watermelons in the Grocery Row Gardens.

There, he has all types of watermelons mixed together – and we haven’t even gotten into the varieties from overseas.

Joseph’s experience in the markets of Africa is quite similar to what we saw on the island of Grenada with various tropical pumpkin varieties. The abundance of varieties – the shapes – the colors! It was unlike anything we see in the states, as there were blurry lines between cultivars, as cross-pollination was common. Varieties might be similar on one farmer’s plot of land as he saved what he liked – or on one mountain – but then you’d see quite different-looking pumpkins in the next town or market, or just over the hill. And as people saved and planted seeds from pumpkins they found in the market, the varieties would continue to cross-pollinate and change. There was no obsessive desire to breed and then stop pumpkins from crossing so they’d always keep the same type. This was both good and bad, as sometimes you’d get watery, bland pumpkins and sometimes you’d get amazing ones – yet it really kept things interesting.

And as for watermelons, I’m going to get in touch with Mr. Simcox and see if we can trade some seeds.

PLANT SALE TOMORROW

Come meet us and get some “GOOD” plants!

We will have our nursery booth set up on Saturday, JUNE 17, at the Atmore Flea Market, from 8AM to 1PM.

ADDRESS: 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL

Some of the plants for sale include: Pineapple guava, Chaste tree, Echinacea, Edible cannas, Sweet Shrub, Jerusalem artichoke, Comfrey, Tobacco, Bamboo (giant yellow timber type) “Robert Young”, Longevity spinach, Tropical milkweed, Chocolate mint, Stevia, Banana (Dwarf Cavendish), Daisies, Elderberries …and a few more rare tidbits

We will also have books, and would love to talk gardening when you stop by.

SPECIAL DISCOUNT OFFER!

We like to recycle pots and reuse them, so we’ll give you a $.50 credit on any blank, useable, one-gallon or larger pot you bring to our booth. Bring what you have and trade ’em in for plants!

Hope to see you there.

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Heaths and heathers are popular evergreen shrubs in the Ericaceae family, beloved in temperate gardens for their flower and foliage colors, spreading habit, and easy care.

And they propagate readily with the right treatment.

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Winter heaths, Erica carnea, hybrids, and other Erica species are known as winter/spring heathers and they have outstanding cold hardiness.

Flowering when it’s too cold for most plants, they’re among the first to bloom and create gorgeous waves of fuchsia, magenta, mauve, pink, or white in late winter to spring, providing an important early food source for bees.

Scotch, summer, or ling heathers, Calluna vulgaris, are the summer/fall varieties and these also have exceptional cold hardiness.

These varieties bloom in midsummer and fall, with flower colors in mauve, pink, purple, ruby, or white.

And many C. vulgaris cultivars have vibrant, color-changing foliage – starting out with bronze, burgundy, chartreuse, coral, gray, green, or gold foliage in spring, they turn mostly green for summer, and then take on bronze and plum hues in winter.

Varieties in both genera are easily cultivated and make beautiful accents, borders, ground covers, and container or rockery plants.

Plus, they have excellent drought tolerance once established, are salt resistant, and deer leave them alone.

Regardless of the type growing in your garden, propagation methods are the same.

These woody shrubs take some time to root, but with a little patience, you can enjoy many multiples of your favorite varieties, with colors and characteristics true to the parents – or not, if you prefer to take your chances with the wild card look!

Are you and your garden ready for more colorful, easy-care heaths and heathers? Then join us now for all the details on how to propagate heather plants.

Here’s what you’ll find ahead:

Heath and Heather Basics

Low-growing winter heaths (Erica spp.) have a mature height of 12 to 24 inches and typically flower from January to May.

Erica is a large genus of flowering evergreens native to parts of Africa and Europe. These feature needle-like leaves.

They do best in acidic soil with a pH of 4.5 to 6.0, with some types like E. carnea being tolerant of neutral to slightly alkaline soil with a pH of 7.0 to 7.5.

Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 7, many do well in Zone 4 with ample snow cover.

Heathers (C. vulgaris) are summer flowering and taller, forming mounds of up to 36 inches that need annual pruning to maintain an attractive shape.

Native to Europe and Asia Minor, there are hundreds of summer-flowering cultivars with flattish, cedar-like leaves.

C. vulgaris plants need acidic soil with a pH of 4.5 to 6.0 and are hardy in Zones 4 to 6.

All types need well-draining soil and full sun. And in both genera, many varieties do well in warmer regions with dry heat provided they have some afternoon shade.

Unfortunately, neither heaths nor heathers do well in hot, humid conditions.

Learn more about heathers in our growing guide.

Seed Propagation

Heath and heather species plants can be propagated from seed, but results vary considerably with no guarantee that seedlings will have the same characteristics as the parents.

And many cultivars are sterile, producing no seeds at all or ones that aren’t viable for growth.

So if you’re up for cultivating some mystery plants, here’s how to propagate seed.

Collect seeds a few weeks after flowering when the flower capsules are dry and store them in a dry container in a cool, dark environment.

Seeds germinate best when they’re fresh and sprout in cool temperatures, so starting them in autumn is optimal – but early spring works as well.

Fill small starter pots with a loamy, slightly acidic growing medium. Or mix one part peat moss with three parts seed-starting mix for a slightly acidic blend.

Water lightly to moisten.

Sow the small seeds on the soil surface about half an inch apart and cover lightly with soil, then firm gently. Germination can be spotty, so plant four to six seeds per pot. Should they all germinate, thin out the weakest and smallest to discard.

To avoid disturbing the seeds, water pots from the bottom or use a spray bottle to mist the soil surface until it’s thoroughly moist.

Place pots in a cool location, ideally 55 to 70°F, in bright, indirect light.

Keep the soil lightly moist at all times.

Seeds typically germinate at around 30 days but can take up to 90 days to sprout.

After seedlings are about two inches tall, pinch out the tops to encourage branching.

Move seedlings outdoors into a protected, frost-free area with bright light and regular water.  Plant out in early spring after new growth appears.

Layering

Layering stems until they root produces true copies of the parent and is the easiest propagation method. Layering can be done at any time, but it also takes the longest.

To layer, choose a nonflowering outer branch from around the plant’s perimeter and remove all foliage from the section to be layered.

Create a small trench one to two inches deep and just inside the drip line. If needed, mound soil into a small hill and then make a trench in the hilltop.

Gently pull the selected branch down and lay the defoliated section in the trench.

Backfill the trench with soil and anchor the layered stem section in place with a rock or tent peg, ensuring at least two inches of the stem tip is above the soil.

Water the parent plant regularly for at least six months, then test to see if rooting has occurred in the buried section.

Test by removing the anchor and giving the growing tip a gentle tug. If you feel resistance or see new growth emerging from the trench area, the layered stem has rooted.

Use clean, sharp garden shears to snip the layered branch from the parent plant.

Dig up the layered root ball and take plenty of soil with it. Insert a trowel six inches deep and four inches out from the layered stem to prevent damaging tender new roots.

Transplant into a garden bed or container as soon as the new plant is removed from the parent.

Rooting Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings of semi-ripe wood also produce clones and this is probably the most reliable propagation method – but they require a bit of attention for success.

Stem cuttings for C. vulgaris varieties are best taken in late summer or early autumn after flowering has finished.

Erica cuttings should be taken in early summer after they’ve finished flowering.

Choose long, flexible, and nonflowering stems from the plant’s perimeter.

Carefully pull down to peel it away from the main stem, taking a small section, or “heel” of the main stem with it. The ideal is to have a heel about one-half to one inch long, exposing both the inner and outer bark.

Dip heel sections into a rooting hormone if desired.

Fill four-inch starter pots with a half-and-half mix of landscape sand and compost.

Soak the rooting medium until it’s wet and insert two or three stems into each pot, firming the soil around each stem.

Cover pots with a small, clear cloche or use a plastic bag, but don’t allow it to touch the foliage. Use bamboo skewers or chopsticks to tent the plastic and keep it away from the cuttings.

Set pots in a location with bright, indirect light and cool temperatures of 60 to 70°F.

Keep the soil continuously moist.

Lift the cloche or plastic bag for a few hours every week to air out plants or when condensation becomes too heavy.

New growth starts to appear in three to four months. If nothing shows in six months and tugged cuttings pull up easily, rooting has failed – toss your cuttings and try again next summer.

Once successful cuttings have several sets of new leaves, harden them off in a partly shady spot outdoors for seven to 14 days.

Plant out into the garden or containers at least four weeks prior to your first expected frost date.

Patience Required

Showy, flowering evergreens, you can easily propagate your favorite heath and heather plants… but it won’t happen quickly!

Seeds can give the fastest results, but germination is spotty and results vary with offspring often having characteristics different from the parent plant.

Layering and stem cuttings create new plants identical to their parents, but they can take several months to root.

Whatever method you choose, keep the soil consistently moist and be patient – no tugging on stems before they’re ready!

What heath or heather cultivars would you like to multiply? Tell us in the comments section below.

And for more showy flowers to propagate, add these guides to your reading list next:

If you’re looking for a way to enjoy fresh cucumbers in the heat of summer, look no further than Armenian cucumbers. These unique veggies thrive in hot climates and offer a delicious, refreshing taste that’s perfect for salads, pickles, and more. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to grow Armenian cucumbers.

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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Are Armenian cucumbers really cucumbers?

First cultivated in Armenia in the 15th century, Armenian cucumbers (also called yard-long cucumbers), despite their name and appearance, are not true cucumbers. They are actually a type of musk melon (Cucumis melo var. flexuosus) that belongs to the same family as cucumbers. However, they taste similar to cucumbers and have a similar internal structure, which is why they are commonly called and treated as cucumbers in culinary contexts.

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6 Tips for How to Grow Armenian Cucumbers

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1. Plant Armenian cucumbers at the right time

These plants are particularly well-suited for hot climates as they tolerate higher temperatures than most cucumber varieties. This makes them an excellent choice for gardeners in warmer regions who struggle to grow traditional cucumbers. Armenian cucumbers are one of only a handful of vegetables that can be planted through July in the low desert.

There are many varieties of Armenian cucumbers. Try a few different types to see which you prefer. My favorite variety is the painted serpent Armenian cucumber.

Before planting, prepare the soil by amending it with compost. 

Plant Armenian cucumber seeds when it is warm outside (consistent days above 65℉/18°C and 80℉/26°C are even better).

Plant 2-3 seeds ½ to 1″ (1-2cm) deep, about 1 foot (30cm) apart. When seeds are 3-4″ (75-100cm) tall, thin to 1 plant every foot (30cm).

Planting dates for the low desert of Arizona: 

Although you can plant transplants, Armenian cucumber seeds do best directly sown in the garden. Click here for Armenian cucumber seeds.

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2. Plant Armenian cucumbers in the best location

• Choose a location that gets at least 6-8 hours of sunlight. Afternoon shade is preferred but not required in hot summer climate areas.
• Armenian cucumbers are best grown on some sort of trellis to keep them off the ground. Trellised fruits will grow straighter. Armenian cucumbers love to vine and can easily take over a garden. If you are looking for vertical gardening ideas, read this post.

• Do not overcrowd plants. Crowded plants are more susceptible to pests and diseases like powdery mildew and squash bugs. Allow at least one foot (30cm) between plants for vertical gardening and 2-3 feet (60-90cm) if plants are left to sprawl.
• Rotate where you plant Armenian cucumbers. Do not plant in the same area as you previously planted other melons, squash, or cucumbers.
• Corn is a good companion plant for Armenian cucumbers, and they may climb the corn as they would a trellis.

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3. Caring for Armenian Cucumbers

While they do need consistent moisture, Armenian cucumbers are more drought-tolerant than common cucumber varieties. This makes them a good option for gardeners in areas with water restrictions or those looking for low-water-use plants.

Mulch the soil around Armenian cucumbers.

Armenian cucumbers have both male and female flowers. Male flowers will appear first and continue to bloom; about two weeks later, the first female flowers will appear. Both types of flowers are yellow. Male flowers will bloom and be visited by a pollinator to pass the pollen onto the female flower, then wither and fall off. Female flowers are bulbous, will bloom, and, if pollinated, develop into a fruit.

Blooms are numerous, and hand-pollination is usually not necessary. Encourage bees by planting oregano, basil, zinnias, and other flowering plants nearby.

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4. Prune Armenian cucumbers and remove suckers as needed

Cut off any yellowing or diseased leaves, as they can drain energy from the plant.

Pruning suckers is not necessary but may be helpful to control the size and spread of the vine and improve air circulation and sunlight exposure. Be careful to only prune side shoots and not the main vine itself. Here’s how:

• Locate the main vine of your Armenian cucumber plant. This is the thickest and longest vine that grows directly from the base of the plant.
• Find a side shoot growing from the base of a leaf stem.
• Follow it down to where it connects with the main vine.
• Cut the side shoot about 1/4 inch above the main vine. If a female blossom is present on the side shoot, cut just after that fruit, ensuring not to damage the main vine.

Prune some side shoots, but don’t remove all of them. Leaving a few shoots will help the plant maintain its structure and balance and also ensures there are plenty of male blossoms. I usually leave most of the side shoots in place. Pruning is an art, so don’t be too hard on yourself if you make mistakes.

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5. Harvesting tips for Armenian cucumbers

Armenian cucumbers are prolific producers, and if you keep harvesting them regularly, they will continue to produce throughout the season. This ensures you have a steady supply of fresh “cucumbers” all summer long.

• Some varieties can grow to 3 feet (90cm) long quickly. They are best picked between 12-18″ (30-45cm) long and 2 ½” (2.5cm) in diameter.
• Pick fruit early in the day and immerse it in a bowl filled with ice water to lengthen storage time.
• Cut off fruit from the vine, as pulling can damage the vine.
• Leaving fruit on the vine too long signals the plant to slow or stop production.
• Larger fruit has larger, more noticeable seeds.
• Larger fruit tastes more like a watermelon rind and less like a cucumber.

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6. Enjoy the harvest of Armenian cucumbers from your garden

Armenian cucumbers are known for their mild, slightly sweet flavor and lack of bitterness often found in other cucumber varieties. This makes them a great addition to a variety of dishes without overpowering the other flavors.

I love cutting up Armenian cucumbers and eating them fresh. They are so good! You’ll have enough, however, that you’ll need additional ways to use them. My favorite ways include eating them raw in salads and sandwiches and pickling them. They maintain their crunch when cooked and can be a delightful addition to stir-fries or grilled vegetable dishes.

• No need to peel; the skin on young Armenian cucumbers is thin and edible.
• Use as you would cucumbers in salad, dips, sushi, or sandwiches.
• Try grilling them in vegetable kabobs or puréeing in smoothies.
• Excellent with pork, fish, mint, oregano, dill, yogurt, and feta cheese.

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Visiting a great nursery is inspirational. Colors and textures draw you in, and wish-list plants beckon to you from the benches and displays. You may even encounter a plant that you can’t live without, even though you’ve never seen it or heard about it before. Join Danielle and Carol as they stroll the aisles of a favorite Rhode Island nursery and chat about their favorite finds.

Expert guest: Sarah Partyka is the owner of The Farmer’s Daughter, a garden center in South Kingstown, Rhode Island.

Danielle’s Plants

‘Copper Harbor’ juniper (Juniperus horizontalis ‘Copper Harbor’)

Sensational!™ lavender (Lavandula x intermedia ‘Tesseract’, Zones 5-9)

‘Nickel Silver’ dyckia (Dyckia ‘Nickel Silver’, Zones 8-11)

‘Shiloh Splash’ river birch (Betula nigra ‘Shiloh Splash’, Zones 4-9)

Carol’s Plants

‘Venusta’ queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta’, Zones 3-8)

Agave-leaf sea holly (Eryngium agavifolium, Zones 6-9)

‘Eastern Star’ white wood aster (Eurybia divaricata ‘Eastern Star’, Zones 3-8)

‘Purpleleaf Bailey Select’ American hazelnut (Corylus americana ‘Purpleleaf Bailey Select’, Zones 4-9)

Expert’s Plants

‘Purple Knight’ calico plant (Alternanthera dentata ‘Purple Knight’, annual)

Cardoon (Cynara cardunculus*, Zones 7–10)

‘Limelight’ licorice plant (Helichrysum petiolare ‘Limelight’, Zones 9–11)

‘Kudos Mandarin’ agastache (Agastache ‘Kudos Mandarin’, Zones 5–9)

‘Xanthos’ cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus ‘Xanthos’, annual)

‘Profusion Double Deep Salmon’ zinnia (Zinnia ‘Profusion Double Deep Salmon’, annual)

Balloon plant (Gomphocarpus physocarpus, Zones 8–10)

‘Black and Blue’ anise-scented sage (Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’, Zones 7–10)

‘Kudos Yellow’ agastache (Agastache ‘Kudos Yellow’, Zones 5–9)

‘Aromatto’ basil (Ocimum basilicum ‘Aromatto’, annual)

‘Emerald Falls’ dichondra (Dichondra repens ‘Emerald Falls’, Zones 7–11)

Expert’s plants:

Container 1

1. ‘Purple Knight’ calico plant
2. Cardoon
3. ‘Limelight’ licorice plant
4. ‘Kudos Mandarin’ Agastache
5. ‘Xanthos’ cosmos
6. ‘Profusion Double Deep Salmon’ zinnia

Container 2

1. Balloon plant
2. ‘Black and Blue’ anise-scented sage
3. ‘Kudos Yellow’ agastache
4. ‘Aromatto’ basil
5. ‘Emerald Falls’ dichondra

 

To see more of Sarah Partyka’s beautiful pollinator-friendly containers, check out her article from Fine Gardening issue 206: https://www.finegardening.com/project-guides/container-gardening/6-beautiful-pollinator-container-garden-designs .

Say thank you to those bumbling, fuzzy, pollen enthusiasts we love so much…bees! By planting flowers for bees, we can help them get enough food and energy to keep on pollinating our plants. Create a bee garden using these flowers, projects, and tips you can easily do at home.

Do you have fruit trees that used to do well but are no longer producing much or any fruit? Perhaps your vegetable garden isn’t as lush as it once was, with fewer vegetables or smaller, misshapen ones. Before you dig out the fertilizer or give up altogether, call in the air force: bees.

Attracting bees to the garden is like hiring a workforce of full-time gardeners to help produce the strongest, most beautiful plants and healthiest vegetables.

These hardworking insects, along with other pollinators, are the smartest thing you can cultivate in your garden because they will do much of the work for you. Follow these simple steps to create your own bee-friendly garden and plant some flowers for the bees.

This post will cover…

Expert Tips for Creating a Bee Garden

• Look for native plants at your local garden centre and see which flowers the bees visit. Ask someone who works there what local flowers bees like best, or choose a bee wildflower seed mix.
• Plant a wide range of flowers in different colours, shapes, smells, and blooming times. Bees need a food source when they awaken in the spring until they hibernate for the winter.
• Beyond flowers, also create a bee bath which is a place for bees to get a drink of water safely.
• Also include bee houses for the solitary bees, a safe spot to nest and breed.
• Avoid the use of pesticides and herbicides in your garden, as these can affect beneficial insects like bees as much as the annoying ones.

Why We Should Attract Bees to the Garden

Gardeners all know bees as pollinators, but very few of us realize how much we rely on them to get some of our basic fruits and vegetables. Out of the 100 major food crops in the USA, bees pollinate 70 of them.

We rely on bees to get strawberries, blueberries, apples, grapes, peaches, pumpkins, cucumbers, broccoli, onions, carrots, cashews, almonds, and so much more. Through pollination, bees carry the pollen grains from male to female plants to fertilize the plant and develop seeds. Without the bees, we wouldn’t have seeds for any of these plants!

Planting flowers for bees allows us to help the little insects flying around the neighbourhood and their mission to pollinate our plants. To really get ahead on how to help the bees, you can start by identifying the types of bees that visit your garden and their specific needs.

What Bee-Friendly Plants Should I Grow?

The first step is to choose flowers that attract bees and plant them in a sunny spot. There are so many varieties out there of flowering plants that bees love, and they differ between climates.

One way you can figure out what plants to choose for your garden is to visit a nursery and look for the bees. Observe which plants they are buzzing around at the garden center and bring a bunch of them home.

And here is another tip: it’s better to plant a number of the same plants than many different varieties, as bees are attracted to larger expanses of one kind of flower.

To quickly create an instant bee garden in your yard, purchase an annual bee wildflower seed mix and spread them around your garden. The seeds in bee mixes are chosen because bees love them and bloom in succession. Scatter the seeds in the perennial garden or in a few pots to set around the garden, and they will keep the bees happy all summer long.

The Best Flowers for Bees

These are a few tried and true flowers that bees love that can be easily found and planted across most zones. Make sure to select bee-friendly plants for every season so that bees can access food from early spring to late fall.

As general rules, bees like bright colours and sweet-smelling flowers. These flowers are doing their best to attract pollinators to their petals with their showiness.

Bees also like flowers where they can gather as much at once. Think about how much easier it is from a bee’s perspective to visit a lilac bush rather than hop around individual flowers.

Annual Flowers for Bees

• Aster
• Calendula
• Celosia
• Clover
• Cleome
• Millet
• Poppy
• Salvia
• Sunflower
• Sweet alyssum
• Zinnia

Perennials that Attract Bees

Bee-Friendly Herbs

Make a Bee Bath

Creating a bee-friendly garden means more than just planting bee-friendly plants. You certainly want to attract them with gorgeous blooms, but you will want to give them a place to drink while they are in your garden. Making a simple bee water feeder that looks nice in the garden is easy.

Add rocks to a shallow dish or bowl so that they sit above clean water to give the bees a place to perch. If you have a problem with aphids, the water will attract beneficial insects, so place the dish near the plant with the aphid problem to help them wash down the feast!

See this post for detailed instructions on how to make a bee bath.

Make a Bee House

To attract beneficial wild bees to your garden, give them a place to nest and breed. A bug hotel is a place for solitary insects like solitary bees, solitary wasps, ladybugs, lacewings, and more to overwinter.

You won’t have to worry about it becoming a hornets’ nest, though, as the hornets, yellow jackets, and wasps that are usually a nuisance in the summer build their own hives somewhere near your house (here is a wasp trap that might help in that case).

A bug hotel is a place for wild, solitary, beneficial insects. You can make your own by filling a wood box with rolls of paper or hollow reeds, or buy one that looks as beautiful as it is functional. Read more about bug hotels here.

Also, be sure to do practices like no mow may and leave the leaves to help bees who shelter in your garden in the natural spaces.

Don’t Sting Me!

Bees often get a bad reputation for being confused with wasps. Bees are gentle creatures that only sting to defend themselves from harm, such as being grabbed or trampled. Wasps can be a bit more aggressive, but unless you provoke them, they won’t start attacking you.

Bees and wasps don’t get angry; they simply defend themselves. Show them respect and care, and you should not get stung.

I saw this honeybee swarm at UBC Farm, and it was quite a sight to see! And hear. The buzzing was like music. And while this many bees might be frightening to some, these little workers are gentle creatures just looking for a new home.

Bees swarm when they outgrow the hive or there is something wrong with it. Usually, a thriving hive will get quite large and create a new queen. The new queen bee leaves the colony with a large group of worker bees.

If you see a swarm like this in your garden, get in touch with your local beekeeping association. They will have the resources to help find these bees a home.

Be Careful Where You Dig

If you have ever woken up a sleepy bumblebee in your garden, you know that many of them bury themselves in the ground for the winter. Believe it or not, most bees are ground bees—over 70% of all species of bees nest underground in conical-shaped mounds in the soil.

In the spring, they wake up, groggily fly around, and start pollinating the early fruit crops. So, if you want fruit in the summer, then roll out the red carpet for the ground bees (and watch where you dig).

Avoid Pesticides, Protect the Bees

It goes without saying that an organic garden is better for bees. Using pesticides in your garden will only continue to hurt the bee population and kill the pollinators that will help you grow healthy, strong plants. If you would like some pesticide-free pest control ideas, try this natural pest control spray or opt for companion planting.

Frequently Asked Questions About Bee Gardens

Read Even More About Beneficial Insects

“Someone once said that’‘gardening is straddling creativity and labor,’ ” says Janet Mavec of Janet Mavec Jewelry. “I think that’s so accurate. I love the juxtaposition of those two things.”

For more than 25 years, Janet and her husband Wayne Nordberg have been doing just that, digging and planting to coax a magical garden into being at Bird Haven Farm in western New Jersey. Set among rolling hills and woodlands, the 100-acre farm is a bucolic dream, replete with a picturesque old barn, spring-fed pond, century-old orchard, and a stone house (once the home of Harriet Stratemeyer Adams, the author of the beloved Nancy Drew mysteries).

In 2002 the couple worked with the great Spanish landscape designer Fernando Caruncho to design the garden’s master plan, including an elegant courtyard with a reflecting pool that is central to many of the couple’s social gatherings. Garden designer Lisa Stamm created the monastery garden, prolific vegetable garden, and perennial border, where Mavec spends much of her time plotting and planting. “Every year, I change up what’s in each bed, add compost, and rotate flowers and vegetable crops,” she says.

“When we originally put the garden in, it was all about editing,” recalls Mavec. “Now years later, there’s still editing, but we focus more on maintaining things in a healthy way.” Inspired after attending a lecture on gardening for birds, she recently added a border of berries and native shrubs such as bottlebrush buckeye and clethra. “I feel like I can tell what kind of winter it’s going to be by how quickly the berries get eaten,” she says.  

These days Mavec is a little more laissez-faire in the garden than in the early days, preferring to spend time on things like color combinations, rather than cajole a fussy plant into bloom. “If it doesn’t come back, we don’t need it,” she says. “I like to garden with colors I would never wear, or even have in my house,” she says with a laugh. “I don’t want my sofa to be barbie pink, for example, but I planted poppies in that color and I love them.” Her palette runs the gamut—from seductive mauvy irises to bright orange marigolds. “I’m not a plant snob,” she says, “I look forward to planting pansies every spring.” Mavec also holds a party every year to celebrate her exuberant festive marigolds, one of the first plants she grew as a young child. “I adore color and love that you can have so much of it in the garden.” She takes us on a tour. 

Photography by Janet Mavec.

Today we’re in Lee’s garden, in the Mohawk Valley of New York State. We visited earlier this spring, and Lee took us on an ant’s-eye view of the developing sprouts and shoots of earliest spring (Lee’s Garden Through the Eyes of an Ant), and now we’re checking in with how things are developing as the season progresses.

The sprouts are now maturing plants getting ready to flower, and the tulips and early bloomers have done their job for another season. I captured some tulips and other early bloomers as they brought in the new flowering season.

I’m seeing lots of buds on lots of plants. I think this will be a banner year, based on the profound spring growth I’m witnessing. A touch of real early fertilizer gave them a nice push, I do believe. Time will tell, but all of the plant structures are very strong, and buds are early. The anticipation! As always, I wish all growers a great growing and blooming season and wish peace to all from the Mohawk Valley in central New York State.

Star magnolia (Magnolia stellata, Zones 4–8) is one of the earliest-blooming magnolias.

This incredible double yellow tulip (Tulipa hybrid, Zones 3–8) has so many layers of petals it almost looks like a rose.

A double tulip in the softest, most romantic shade of pink

A yellow tulip painted with bold stripes of red

Now that is PINK! It almost glows.

Tulips with green in the petals are sometimes called viridiflora types. This might be the very popular variety ‘Spring Green’.

A Chinese garden guardian called a foo dog

And here’s a slightly less traditional garden resident! But this sow looks quite at home among the bright oriental poppies (Papaver orientale, Zones 3–8) and Siberian irises (Iris siberica, Zones 3–8).

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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As the blooms gradually turn completely cream-colored, they will inspire oohs and ahhs from late summer up to the first frost.

Properly classified as Ipomoea lobata, Spanish flag is also known by two former scientific names, Mina lobata and Quamoclit lobata, and by a colorful array of other nicknames including exotic love vine.

Its most recent Latin name, Ipomoea lobata, places Spanish flag in the morning glory family.

This moniker is particularly distasteful to many gardeners because, while indeed being botanically related to Mexican morning glory (I. tricolor), common morning glory (I. purpurea), and others in the Ipomoea genus, firecracker vine’s flowers are not funnel-shaped and look unlike morning glory flowers.

Many gardeners simply call this plant “Mina lobata.”

Let’s learn more about this glamorous dazzler and see if it might suit your next privacy fence, border, or even a large container for the patio. Here’s what to expect:

What Is Spanish Flag Vine?

Native to Mexico, I. lobata was originally named in honor of Spanish explorer Francisco Xavier Mina in 1824 and introduced to Europe that same year.

Some 60 years later, in 1887, it made its way to the US via a German seed house and has enjoyed varying degrees of popularity here ever since.

Cultivated as an annual in some climates, in others Spanish flag is characterized as an invasive plant – much like its cousin, the morning glory – due to its speedy and aggressive growth habit.

It typically flowers from late summer through autumn, making it an attractive addition to colorful fall landscapes.

In the southern US, this vine will overwinter quite well, whereas northerners will have to plant afresh each summer.

The flowers emerge a bright red to deep orange color. As they grow larger, they fade to pink, pale orange or yellow, and finally cream.

As they age and change colors, the blossoms remain vertically arranged on one side of the stem as new red blooms are produced at the top of the floral stem.

This results in a stunning cascade of colors that exhibit the flag-like appearance for which the plant is known.

Though just one flower on a stem generally becomes fertile at a time, thrusting out pistil and stamens, the flowers’ nectar attracts hummingbirds and bees.

Not content with run-of-the-mill green foliage? This morning glory family member produces bronze-purple, deeply lobed leaves that mature to a deep green.

These leaves are shed as the season progresses, so you might want to plant low-growing screen plants in front of the base of the vines.

This polychromatic delight also proudly sprouts showy purple stems.

Propagation

You’re not likely to find Spanish flag starts at the local nursery, so starting them from seed is usually the best bet.

If you want an advantage, start seeds indoors. Sow them in a premoistened seed-starting mix about a quarter-inch deep at least six weeks before transplanting outside. You’ll wait to do that until after all danger of frost has passed in your area.

Ordinary seed-starting mix works fine, or you could use potting soil, but don’t use ordinary garden soil or you may encourage disease or poor drainage.

The coats on firecracker vine seeds are tough – another reminder that they are members of the morning glory family. To soften the shells and hasten germination, soak the seeds in plain water for 24 hours before sowing.

Give each seed its own one- or two-inch cell or space them two inches apart in a shallow tray. Keep the seeds moist and the temperature between 65 and 70°F until they sprout. This can take five to 20 days.

Once the seedlings push through the growing mix, immediately move them to a sunny window or place the tray beneath a grow light.

They’ll be ready to plant out a week or two after the average last frost date, once the soil is 55°F and the air is at least 65°F. Wait until they have at least two sets of true leaves, and harden them off gradually to adjust to the outside light and temperature.

To transplant, dig a hole the same size as the cells of the current container, place the main stem at the same depth, and backfill with more growing mix. Water in thoroughly and get ready for speedy growth to commence!

You can also direct sow the soaked seeds outdoors when freezing temperatures are a winter memory, being careful to space them at least a foot apart if you don’t plan to thin the seedlings.

How to Grow

When choosing a spot to grow a Spanish flag, make sure it will have enough room to spread a foot or two and enough support to reach its mature height of six to 20 feet.

The vines also prefer full sun, and will flower sooner with six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. They will also tolerate a bit of shade, though you shouldn’t expect as many flowers.

If you plan to enjoy the pollinators and hummingbirds that mob this flowering vine, be sure to plant it on a site at least 10 yards from anywhere that you or a neighbor is using insecticides or herbicides.

Heat is no problem for Spanish flag, but it does appreciate rich, moist, well-drained soil. It can thrive in a range of pH levels from 6.0 to 8.0, which includes soils that are somewhat acidic to neutral to somewhat alkaline.

Firecracker vine also makes an attractive container plant if you give it something to climb on and keep the soil moist.

The pot must hold at least seven gallons, and make sure it’s made of a water-retentive material and that it has drainage holes in the bottom.

Read our guide to learn more about selecting the best material for planters and containers.

Once the plants are in the ground, they’re easy to care for.

You will want to supplement their water during dry spells, using a watering can or the hose to provide an inch or so of water at the soil surface, not sprinkling it above the leaves.

Provide your vines with a high-nitrogen fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season, and switch to a high-phosphorous mixture before the plant blooms.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun.
• Provide a trellis or fence at least 10 feet tall.
• Fertilize with a high-phosphorous fertilizer when the plants form buds.
• To protect pollinators drawn to Spanish flag, don’t use insecticides or herbicides nearby.

Pruning and Maintenance

Like most annual vines, I. lobata doesn’t require pruning to grow tall and spread about a foot or so.

You may need to train the runners up your selected supports, but only if they start sprawling along the ground.

It’s pretty easy. Once they’re six to eight inches long, gently entwine the runners with the lowest parts of the supports. Or tie them to the bottom juncture of the trellis or fence with a loose bow of biodegradable twine.

Usually, though, they’ll find the supports on their own, seemingly growing a foot or more overnight.

Beyond that, mid- to late season care involves fertilizing when the plants form buds and enjoying the flowers as they fly their colors, later becoming cream-colored flags waving in the wind.

At season’s end, clear the plant debris to discourage insect pests from overwintering in the dead vines. Only compost the remains if you’re cool with a seed or two sprouting in the composted soil next season.

Spanish flag doesn’t usually have trouble with disease, particularly when planted in well-draining soil with ample space between vines.

But you may encounter white blister, rust, or fungal leaf spots. You can use a fungicide to combat these diseases.

Best Uses

This is a showy bloomer with beautiful colors that flowers in late summer through fall, just as many other annuals are fading out.

Due to its height and need for support, the best use for the showy firecracker vine is at the back of a border or as a focal point growing against a wall near the patio, sidewalk, or porch.

It’s also invaluable as a quick-growing privacy screen.

And if you are willing to water a couple of times per week in the heat, find a large container, and place it near a suitably tall and strong support. Spanish flag can also create an impressive display of color in a container.

Finally, when choosing vines to suit your garden or landscape, remember this ornamental vine’s appeal to pollinators.

Plant it somewhere our flying and buzzing friends can access the blooms for nectar that’s also near a source of shelter and water.