Is there anything like a soft, honey-sweet persimmon fresh off the tree? If there is, I haven’t found it yet.
Now, is there anything more heartbreaking than when you wait throughout the year for your anticipated harvest, only to be disappointed by bare branches? It’s devastating.
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I’ve always found persimmons to be tougher and more reliable than some other fruit trees, but that doesn’t mean that they’re without any problems at all.
There are a number of things that can cause your persimmon to fail on you.
Some problems you can control to some degree, like the amount of water they receive, and some you can’t, like the age of the plant.
I won’t keep you in suspense. Here are the nine most common causes, which we will cover in full detail, coming right up:
Persimmons belong to the Diospyros genus, a name which means “God’s fruit” in Greek. And the fruit of the gods they are.
It’s the Asian types that you’ll find in the grocery store. Only specialty retailers will carry the North American fruits during their short growing season.
Native types tend to fruit irregularly and they’re more astringent until they reach peak ripeness. Once ripe, though delicious, they don’t transport well.
I’ll also note that persimmons generally don’t need fertilization, and unless you’re really overfeeding, available nutrients shouldn’t be the cause of a lack of fruits.
Regardless of which species you are growing, most of the following causes can impact both types. We’ll call it out if that’s not the case. Ready?
1. Age
Sometimes we may forget that trees grow old, and they stop being able to get up from the floor without some seriously creaking knees and the help of a nearby chair.
Wait, that’s what happens to me as I age.
When these plants age, they stop trying to reproduce, and that means no more flowers or fruit.
Asian types remain productive for about 70 years. Native species can keep producing for over 100 years.
On the other end of the spectrum, trees younger than nine years aren’t fully mature and might not be ready to produce fruit. Around this age, the specimen might start blooming and setting fruit, but then some or all of the fruit will fall to the ground before it matures.
Don’t worry, it’s not your fault. It’s just the persimmon figuring everything out.
If your specimen is getting old, the only thing you can do is replace it. For younger plants, just keep waiting. You’ll have fruit soon enough.
2. Bad Genetics
Sometimes trees just have bad genetics. If you purchased a plant from a reputable nursery, then this isn’t likely to be the issue.
But if you propagated a wild cutting or took one from an older orchard, it might just be that the tree isn’t a good producer.
One of the surest signs, assuming the tree is in full sun, is that it will produce just a few blossoms, usually only on one or two branches. It’s like it’s trying to do its job right, but it just can’t seem to manage.
It might do better the next year, producing more blossoms and maybe even some fruit, but the year after that, it’s back to the same paltry performance.
These specimens can either be culled, or you can field graft a more productive performer onto the tree.
If you’re really determined to give it a chance, prune off less productive branches and retain the ones that are doing well. This should be done over several years.
3. Gender
If your tree has produced fruit before, go ahead and skip this section. But if you just planted it or you inherited one on your property, you might never have seen the tree set fruit.
If that’s the case, it’s possible that your particular plant is male.
Most persimmons are monoecious, meaning male and female flowers are produced on different trees. Males pollinate the females, so they flower, but they don’t produce any fruit.
Male trees usually have smaller flowers that are borne in small clusters. Female flowers are single and they’re larger.
There are other differences that are a little bit more challenging to identify, but you’ll be able to pick out a male versus a female tree quickly using these descriptors.
Now things are about to get a little bit more complicated.
These trees may have both male and female parts (known as dioecious), with all of the flowers containing pistils as well as sterile stamens. Or, a female specimen can produce a male branch.
On top of that, a tree can change its sexual expression from year to year. That means a female might not produce one year because it is producing male flowers in the current year.
There’s nothing you can do about a gender conflict. If you have a male tree, you’ll have to plant a female one as well if you want fruit.
4. It’s an “Off” Year
Many trees are prone to what we call alternate bearing, which is when you see a large crop one year and hardly anything the next.
Persimmons, and especially American types, are particularly prone to alternate bearing.
If you had a bumper crop last year and you’re disappointed with what you’re seeing this year, don’t give up hope. Next year might be a banger.
Alternate bearing can be caused by the tree changing its sexual expression (see: gender) or simply because it is the genetic nature of the tree to use all its energy producing persimmons one year and to not have enough energy to do as much the following year.
5. Lack of Pollination
When it comes to pollination, we group American persimmons according to the number of chromosomes they have.
Those with 90 chromosomes don’t need a pal for pollination, but those with 60 chromosomes do.
All Asian types have 90 chromosomes and thus are self-fruitful, as are the American cultivars ‘Deer Magnet,’ ‘Dolly,’ ‘Early Golden,’ ‘Killen,’ and ‘Lehman’s Delight.’
Unless you grow a self-fruitful type, you’ll need a second one to pollinate, and it needs to be an American type – not an Asian type.
You can also graft a male scion onto a female specimen to provide pollination, but be aware that the tree might reject the addition in a process known as self-pruning.
While it’s best to have one male growing for every four or so females, two females can sometimes pollinate each other since they often produce male limbs.
One of the nice things about persimmons is that they flower later in the season, so they avoid the late-season frosts that can destroy blossoms on other fruit trees like peaches, cherries, and plums.
But if you have heavy rains during the flowering period, this might prevent the male pollen from reaching the female flowers. In that case, you’re kind of out of luck that year.
6. Lack of Sun
Persimmons fruit best in full sun, though the American species will usually fruit even in part shade.
Take a look at your tree throughout the day and see how much sun is hitting it. If it is receiving more than six hours of sunlight per day, it should be receiving enough to produce tasty persimmons.
If it isn’t getting that amount of sun, you’ve got a tough decision to make. Either prune any nearby trees that are creating the shade, or you can try transplanting your tree if it’s young.
An older specimen that is in too much shade makes a nice ornamental, but it won’t magically start producing.
7. Leaf Spot
Leaf spot actually causes the fruit to abort rather than causing no fruit to form at all. If you had developing fruits but they started jumping ship, take a look at the foliage of the plant.
If you see black spotting on the leaves, it’s possibly anthracnose, caused by the fungus Colletotrichum horii.
This disease is more common in Asian types of persimmons, and it can be bad news. On the bright side, it’s not very widespread – yet – so the chances of contracting it are slim but not impossible.
If it does infect your trees, the twigs, fruits, and young leaves will show black or dark brown spots. Older leaves and fruit will drop off the tree.
The disease can be treated, but you’ll need to treat the tree repeatedly to truly eliminate it.
Use one following the manufacturer’s directions and then wait until the appropriate reapplication time to use the other. Keep swapping back and forth for the entire growing season.
The following spring, apply CEASE as a preventative.
8. Over- or Underwatering
Persimmons, particularly American types, are pretty tolerant of drought. But extended periods of drought can also cause stress and a lack of fruiting.
Overwatering can cause root rot, and the stress that results due to this condition can lead to a lack of fruiting as well.
Both of these conditions can also cause forming fruit to abort.
You want to add water when the top few inches of soil dry out, but never water if the soil feels soggy or wet. When in doubt, err on the side of too dry rather than too wet to prevent issues.
9. Pruning Problems
Gardening well is all about learning and gaining experience, and we all make mistakes along the way.
I say this so you won’t judge me when I tell you that when I had my first mini orchard, I pruned all my fruit trees the same way at the same time.
I know, rookie mistake.
Some fruit tree species produce on old wood, and some need new growth.
If you prune off the new growth on a tree that needs new wood to produce, it won’t be able to give you a crop that year.
Persimmons are a bit of a challenge in that they do best when they’re pruned, but you also need to leave new wood in place for fruiting. It’s a delicate balance.
If you opt to avoid pruning altogether, your tree will produce fine, but not as well as it could. That’s because old growth is brittle and tends to break easily, plus a lack of pruning means less new growth.
But if you over-prune, on the other hand, you’re removing the growth necessary for an abundant harvest.
Persimmons fruit on young wood, so if you’re consistently cutting off the new growth, you probably won’t see much, if any, fruit.
Try to be restrained in your pruning and remove only dead, diseased, or deformed branches.
If your specimen starts dwindling in production, you can prune it back to encourage new growth. You might not have a good harvest the year you do this, but the following years should look better.
You’re Going to Need a Big Basket for Your Harvest
Don’t you hate it when someone says that a plant is normally reliable and rarely has such and such a problem? It makes me feel like a failure when my plant struggles.
So let me reassure you that though persimmons are usually good producers, and I consider myself an experienced grower at this point, I’ve run into issues before.
Sometimes it was my fault, and sometimes it wasn’t. That’s the nature of working with nature.
So what kind of problem are you having? Let us know what you’re dealing with and how you plan to tackle it in the comments. And if you need more help, don’t hesitate to ask.
With its alluring and vibrant blooms, lantana is one of the most beloved ornamental plants you can have in your garden.
Its splashes of color will bring an undeniable beauty into your landscape, acting as a one-of-a-kind asset to your garden. I may be a bit hypnotized by the magic this flowering plant brings, but you will be too.
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The Lantana genus, comprised of flowering shrubs from the Verbenaceae family, includes over 150 species.
Lantanas are perennials in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, but gardeners in cooler regions can grow them as annuals.
Known for their small clusters of brightly colored flowers, which come in a wide range of hues, their beauty attracts gardeners and pollinators while enhancing the natural ecosystem.
Here are the topics that we’ll explore:
What Is Lantana?
Lantanas are showy little flowers that will cause you to do a double-take when walking by. They have star-shaped tubular blooms that grow in clusters, in a range of different colors.
Lantanas may be grown as annuals or perennials, depending on your location.
These small, broadleaf evergreen shrubs have woody stems and species plants produce small peppercorn-like berries in a variety of colors. Hybrid cultivars may not produce fruits.
Most lantana bushes will grow up to six feet tall in their native climate, but if cultivated in cooler zones as annuals, they may grow up to three feet tall in a growing season.
Photo by Alonza Simmons.
Depending on what species or cultivar you select, there are trailing varieties that serve as climbers, but overall, they make exceptional ground covers.
They also provide a wonderful source of nectar that attracts pollinators.
Cultivation and History
Native to tropical regions of Central and South America and Africa, Lantana species may be found today throughout numerous areas of the world, including southern Europe, Asia, the Middle East, India, Australia, New Zealand, the Caribbean islands, Mexico, and the United States.
In the 18th century, lantana was a popular greenhouse plant in Europe, leading to breeding efforts that resulted in hundreds of available selections.
But it is known to be invasive throughout many regions – use caution when planting if this is a known problem in your area.
Historically, in regions where lantana was introduced outside of its native range, it often escaped cultivation and established itself as a freely growing species. Don’t worry, with regular maintenance and care your selected species should not run wild.
One of the most popular species commonly grown today is L. camara.This species is known for its aromatic leaves and wide range of color variations, from yellow to orange to red, or white to pink to lavender.
Photo by Alonza Simmons.
Additionally, different cultivars of L. camara have been developed, resulting in variations in appearance and shade tolerance.
Note that L. camara is considered invasive in Florida, Hawaii, Australia, and New Zealand.
Propagation
There are two ways to propagate lantana plants. Let’s dig in to determine the right method for you.
From Seed
In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, where these plants grow as perennials, you have the choice of sowing seeds directly outdoors or starting them indoors in the winter or early spring.
In Zones where lantana is grown as an annual, start seeds indoors about six to 10 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area.
Soak your seeds for 24 hours in distilled water before sowing.
You will use shallow seed trays, starter pots, and some soilless potting mix.
If you are new to soilless potting mix, it is a growing substrate used for container gardening and indoor plant cultivation. It is specifically designed to provide a lightweight, well-draining, and nutrient-rich environment for plants.
The best mixes include equal parts aggregate and organic material. You can use orchid bark, coco coir, or perlite for aggregates and white peat or sphagnum for the organic component. Fill the containers with this mix and moisten it.
After soaking, place one to two seeds in each pot and add another 1/8 inch of mix on top.
I like to use tray inserts with individual cells for starting seeds, like these that are available in packs of five from True Leaf Market. Place the individual pots on your tray.
The seeds must be kept at a temperature between 70 and 75°F and in indirect light. Cover the pots with a clear plastic bag to help keep the moisture in and dampen the soil as needed.
Once your seedlings appear, in about a month or slightly longer, remove the bag. If more than one seedling appears in a single container, you will want to cut the weaker of the two with some sharp, sterile scissors and dispose of it.
The seedlings may be transplanted after two to four weeks of growth.
In Zones 9 to 11, where you will be more interested in directly sowing outside, you should choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-draining soil.
Prior to planting, you can incorporate well-composted organic matter into the soil to help provide essential nutrients and improve the soil structure.
Lantana is tolerant of different soil conditions, but you should amend very heavy clay or sand with organic compost.
Create shallow furrows or depressions about a quarter-inch deep in the soil and place one to two seeds in each one. Space out your sowing to about six to 12 inches apart. Gently cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil and lightly tamp down.
As the seedlings emerge, thin them if necessary to maintain proper spacing between plants.
From Cuttings
This process is one of the most popular methods, especially when propagating cultivated varieties and hybrids. This method of producing clones of your exact plant is straightforward, and I’ll explain how.
Fill six-inch containers with drainage holes with sandy, well-draining potting mix, or you can use an equal mix of peat and perlite.
Moisten the potting mix with distilled water or rainwater and poke a hole two inches deep for the cutting. Pick some young tender growth for your cuttings.
Use a sharp, sterile knife to make a diagonal cut four to six inches from the tip of the shoot.
Remove all but the top two to three leaves, and any buds that may be present. Dip the bottom two inches into rooting hormone powder. You will then place your cutting in the hole and pack the soil around it gently to help the cutting stay upright. Water it in.
Use a clear plastic bag, such as a gallon-size freezer bag, over the top of the pot to help keep humidity in.
You can use sticks or another supporting structure to keep the bag tented over the plant. Place in a spot with bright, indirect light and water when the soil is dry one inch down.
After the roots form in about three to four weeks, you can remove the bag and move the new plants to their permanent site.
Cuttings can also be propagated in water. This method is known more for how much fun it is than for its practicality. It’s a fun way to get the family involved while watching the roots grow.
Fill a glass bottle, vase, or jar with distilled water or rainwater. Cover the opening with plastic wrap and poke a hole in the center for the cutting.
You will then take your cuttings as described above and stick the stem in the water. The bottom one to two inches should be submerged. Place the container in a bright spot with indirect sunlight where it won’t be disturbed.
When the water level drops, make sure to remove the plastic and add more. The water should be changed whenever it becomes cloudy. It will take about the same amount of time as with the soil method to develop roots before the cutting can be transplanted.
Transplanting
For Zones that experience frost, it is best to wait a couple of weeks after the danger of frost has passed in your area to transplant seedlings or starts from the nursery.
Choose a sunny spot and dig a hole approximately twice the width and depth of the root ball. This will provide ample space around the roots to spread out and establish more easily in the new planting location.
Some gardeners prefer to loosen the root ball if they notice the plant is rootbound when they remove it from the pot for planting.
This is when the roots are tightly packed and circling around the pot, and it can hinder their ability to grow outwards into the surrounding soil once transplanted.
Some will do this by simply teasing the outer roots away from the soil or making a few vertical cuts along the sides of the root ball with a clean, sharp tool. Other gardeners prefer to simply place their plant in the ground, not disturbing the roots at all. This decision will be left to you.
However, it is important to handle the roots with care and avoid excessive pulling or tearing as this can cause damage. Striking a balance between loosening the roots and preserving their integrity is key to ensuring successful transplanting and subsequent growth.
As mentioned earlier in the section on seed planting, you can amend the soil with organic compost if needed before planting. After you have placed your lantana in the ground, backfill with soil and tamp lightly.
How to Grow
While lantana is adaptable and can withstand periods of drought and heat, it is still essential to provide proper care to ensure optimal growth.
Lantana generally prefers a slightly acidic soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5, but these plants can tolerate a wider pH range. They prefer well-draining soil that is fertile and moderately rich in organic matter.
A loamy or sandy soil with good drainage is ideal. Avoid heavy clay and soggy ground, which can cause root rot. Shady conditions can also cause mildew to form on the foliage.
Once established, they have moderate water requirements. They prefer regular watering to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Avoid overwatering, but they may require more frequent irrigation during prolonged dry periods.
Choose a location in full sun – they prefer six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Lantanas are heat-tolerant plants that prefer warm temperatures.
After transplanting, these plants don’t require fertilizer unless your soil is poor.
If your soil needs the added nutrients or if you’re growing lantana in containers, they can benefit from regular fertilization with a balanced product, such as 10-10-10 NPK, to support healthy growth and abundant flowering.
Use a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer or apply a water-soluble fertilizer every four to six weeks during the growing season.
Growing Tips
Plant in a full sun location.
Ensure soil is well-draining.
Provide even moisture.
Pruning and Maintenance
Whether you are growing lantanas as perennials or annuals, it is best to deadhead as needed, stimulating the plant to produce more flowers throughout the growing season.
This will keep your plants looking tidy and attractive.
You can trim them during the winter, but this only works in growing zones where they are growing as perennials.
Cutting them back at any time of the year is okay if they begin to take over your yard.
You can cut your lantana back to attain the shape you desire. As a general rule of thumb, do not remove more than one-third of the plant at any one time due to the stress it can cause.
Be sure not to cut them in the heat of the day, as this can cause stress. You will want to trim any dead or broken shoots or branches.
Species and Cultivars to Select
Let’s look at some of the most common varieties of lantana worthy of selection:
Buttonsage
L. involucrata is a sweet little species known for its sage-like fragrance. It grows three feet tall as an upright branching shrub. The flower colors include lavender and white, followed by purple fruit.
In USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, it can thrive in full sun or partial shade. This species tolerates moist soils and needs medium moisture.
Common Lantana
L . camara is one of the most widely cultivated species. The flowers may be white, yellow, pink, purple, red, and/or orange.
This species spreads very quickly and is considered invasive in many areas, so be sure to do your homework before you plant.
Best suited to Zones 10 to 11, the common species loves full sun, tolerates poor soil, and thrives with medium moisture. This upright shrub grows three to six feet tall.
Landmark® Rose Sunrise is an L. camara cultivar – also known as ‘Balandrise’ – that features an abundance of bright pink and yellow flowers.
L. montevidensis is ideal as a dense ground cover. As indicated by its common name, this species has a vast sprawling habit, with thick foliage and beautiful flowers.
It will spread 12 to 20 inches and each vine-like stem can grow upwards of six feet long.
Be careful: this plant has tiny hairs on the leaves that may irritate the skin. The flower colors include purple, pink, and lilac and it’s best suited to Zones 8 to 10.
The trailing species loves full sun, and well-draining soils with medium moisture.
If you are interested in a trailing type, Nature Hills Nursery sells a purple variety.
Managing Pests and Disease
While lantanas are generally considered relatively resistant to pests and disease, they may still encounter a few issues.
Here are some common pests and diseases that can affect these plants:
Herbivores
These plants generally have few issues with vertebrate herbivores, as they contain compounds that make them unpalatable to many animals.
Deer
In places where deer populations are high, they may occasionally chew on your lantana plants, especially during periods of food scarcity.
But these plants are not usually appealing to deer due to the texture, taste, and scent, so you shouldn’t have much to worry about.
If you are troubled by deer in your garden, odor-based repellents and fencing or motion-activated deterrents can keep them away.
What do you know, rabbits are next on the list. Who could’ve guessed?
These nibbling prey animals can sometimes give your plants a nibble or a few, particularly on young and tender growth. Some gardeners find rabbits love to dine on their lantanas, while others not so much.
Protecting your plants with repellents and barriers can deter them from feeding.
Don’t worry about these pests, as they can be knocked down with water or sprayed with insecticidal soap.
You can do this in the morning before the weather heats up and repeat applications at least once per week until the problem has been washed away, pun definitely intended.
Keep in mind that the frequency of using insecticidal soap depends on the severity of the infestation and the specific product instructions. Be sure to read the labels.
Aphids
These small, soft-bodied insects will cluster on new growth and the undersides of leaves while feeding on sap. This can cause distorted growth and yellowing.
There are various species of whiteflies that are pests of lantanas.
One species in particular, known as Bermisia tabaci, are small, winged insects that will gather on the undersides of the leaves, sucking on the sap, and causing the leaves to turn yellow or wilt.
Let’s look into the diseases that are possible with these beautiful flowers.
Please note that there are many homemade do-it-yourself fungicides that you can try before using chemical products.
Natural fungicides such as neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, or copper-based products may be used to address the diseases described below.
Botrytis Blight
This gray mold is a fungal disease that’s common with excessive moisture. Generally, plants will not fall victim this disease if you avoid overhead watering.
If you see wet, brown spots on the leaves that are soon covered by gray mold, you can treat this disease with a fungicide containing fenhexamid or chlorothalonil.
But if you are anything like me, and more interested in the idea of natural fungicides, then I have good news for you: Many gardeners have reportedly used natural fungicides such as neem oil, baking soda, three percent hydrogen peroxide solution, copper-based fungicides, compost tea, horsetail tea, essential oils, aloe vera, and herbs to treat botrytis blight successfully.
Powdery Mildew
This white, powdery fungal growth can appear on leaves, stems, and flowers. It can cause leaf distortion, stunted growth, and reduced flowering.
High humidity and poor air circulation can promote its development.
Lantanas are versatile ornamentals that attract beneficial pollinators to the garden, such as hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees. They can be used in landscaping as well as containers.
Not only is it ornamental, lantana is a beneficial herbal medicine, and it has been used to assist with various ailments.
According to a published review article of the medicinal properties of the leaves of L. camara, it has been documented as a treatment for many health problems, including malaria, eczema, tumors, high blood pressure, ulcers, asthma, chickenpox, measles, fevers, sores, cuts, swelling, rheumatism, tetanus, and catarrhal infection.
Please note that medical advice should always be obtained from a professional before embarking on any herbal treatment regimen.
Lantana can be grown alongside other sun-loving flowers and ornamental grasses to create attractive combinations.
Some examples of great companion plants include Angelonia angustifolia, pentas, and salvia.
This plant is a beautiful addition to grow in a sunny spot outdoors or in a location that receives bright, indirect light indoors.
It can be grown as a ground cover, or in pots, raised beds, window boxes, or hanging baskets.
In a world bursting with colors, may lantana emerge in your life as a playful painter, turning your garden into a canvas of vibrant hues.
With its dazzling blooms and irresistible charm, lantana invites butterflies to dance, bees to buzz, and hearts to skip a beat. So, plant your lantana, and watch it grow.
Feel free to share your experiences with growing and caring for these plants in the comments below. Out of all the different varieties, we would love to hear what variety you chose to grow in your garden.
Worm Farming, also known as vermicomposting, is a popular way of turning organic household waste into nutrient-rich fertilizer. In this worm farming guide, you’ll learn about the practice of vermicomposting and how to become successful at it. You might be surprised to learn that worm farming for beginners is much easier than you think!
Let’s start digging, shall we?
Introduction to Worm Farming for Beginners
First, what exactly is worm farming? A worm farm is exactly what the name implies, a farm for worms. It’s an enclosed compost area where worms live and feed off food waste. The major benefit is that the worms leave behind waste of their own (vermicompost or vermicast) which is incredibly nutrient-rich compost.
Aside from producing all-natural garden fertilizer, vermicomposting has many other wonderful benefits:
Vermicomposting is environmentally friendly: Worm farming is a great way to repurpose organic household waste. This means less waste in landfills and fewer harmful greenhouse gases.
Worm farming can be done anywhere: Worm farms are very convenient since they’re clean, odor-free and space efficient. They can be set up anywhere: in an apartment, balcony, backyard or garage.
Worm farming produces nutrient-rich warm tea: Another benefit of worm farms is the nutrient-rich by-product called worm tea (aka worm leachate). This is drained every couple of days and can be diluted with water (ratio of 1:10) and used as a liquid fertilizer to water plants.
How to Start Worm Farming
When it comes to worm farming for beginners, here’s how to get started in 3 simple steps:
Step 1: Setting Up a Worm Farm
These are the materials necessary when first setting up a worm farm:
Worm Bin: When it comes to worm farming, it’s important to invest in a purpose-built worm composter. Worm farms are designed with trays and often a spigot, which makes it easy when it comes to harvest worm castings and collecting worm tea.
Worm Bedding: Next, you will need to line the tray with appropriate bedding to create a home for your worms. Leaves, cardboard, compost, and shredded newspaper are all great options.
Composting Worms: This one’s obvious. You’ll need about one pound of worm for every square foot area of the bin, and there are only certain species you can use (which I’ll get to in the next segment).
Regular Supply of Compostable Material: This can be anything from a few handfuls of lawn mowing clippings to kitchen scraps. Things like tea bags, coffee grounds, fruits, and veggies are great. Just be sure to avoid meat, onions, citrus, cooking oil, dairy, and other heavily-processed food. Worms dislike these foods and they can also attract pests and make the bin smell.
Choose a suitable location for your warm farm: Ideally, a worm farm should be placed in an area where the temperature sits between 40 to 80˚F. This means cool, dark areas such as a garden shed, basement, or any area away from direct sunlight. If you live somewhere that experiences extreme climates, be sure to move your composter indoors as snow or extreme heat can kill the worms.
Select the Right Worm Species: Unfortunately, you can’t use ordinary garden worms for composting but there are other vermicomposting-friendly species to get the job done. Red Wigglers are the most popular option because they are fast breeders. European Nightcrawlers are also a good option since they generate less smell and are adept at eating pests like slugs.
Step 2: Maintaining your Worm Farm
Once you’ve made a new home for your worms and everything is set up, it’s important to keep on top of the maintenance. Here are my top tips to keep your worm farm thriving:
Don’t Overfeed the Worms: This is the number one mistake worm farming beginners make. Sure, worms eat their body weight in a day, but adding too much food in the bin is a big no-no. This is because any excess food can heat the bin and increase acidity, which can then cause it to smell and attract pests.
Chop Up Scraps: Worms don’t have any teeth, so it’s good to cut up food scraps into small pieces to help them digest them faster. A food processor is a good way to speed up this process.
Maintain Moisture Levels: The moisture in your compost bin needs to be monitored because worms breathe through their skin. Any significant fluctuations can adversely affect these critters. If your bin seems too dry, add moisture by lightly spraying water. Conversely, if your bin appears too wet, remove any soggy bedding and replace it with dry material.
Drain Worm Tea Regularly: The small amount of liquid that sweeps into the bottom of your worm farm is known as worm tea and is an excellent liquid fertilizer. Most worm farms have a spigot tap at the bottom that makes it easy to drain the worm tea. It’s important to drain this regularly so that your farm doesn’t start to smell.
Step 3: Harvesting and Using Vermicompost
It takes 60 to 90 days for vermicompost to get to the point of harvest. Once you notice vermicast (rich, black, loose, crumbly material) in your worm farm you know it’s time to harvest!
You can harvest your vermicompost in several ways including hand harvesting, light harvesting and the bait method. Once you’ve collected your precious worm castings, add them to your veggie garden or pots for a wonderful nutrient boost!
And there you have it, the ultimate worm farming guide to get you started in this popular composting practice. Once you’ve purchased and set up your worm composter, remember to regularly feed your worms and drain the worm tea. In no time you’ll be harvesting your vermicast gold!
Here is an excellent video from North Carolina State Extension on getting started with vermicomposting.
Author bio:Elle Reed, of The Potager Project, is a passionate gardener and advocate for teaching beginner gardeners how to grow their own food. Elle’s mission is to inspire and empower people to get back to basics, start a vegetable garden, and embrace a sustainable lifestyle. “Whether it’s a few herb pots in an apartment, a potager or a full garden plot, we can all ‘start somewhere’ to grow our own food”
Chances are, you’ve been gifted a bouquet of flowers. But have you ever been gifted soap flowers before? This unique gift-giving idea is beautiful, practical, and 100% natural. Here’s how to make pretty soap roses for yourself or to give as thoughtful presents to your friends and family.
I’m a big fan of homemade gifts. In my eyes, they’re just so much more personalized and come from the heart. They make the best surprises since no one could possibly add something like that to their Amazon wish list!
At my house, I always have SO much soap on the go. Since I test out so many soap recipes to share with you, I have more soap than I could ever go through all by myself. If you ever stop by my house and check out my apothecary, it’s practically a soap shop where you can pick out your favourite scents to take home.
As someone who gives out many homemade gifts, I’m always looking for creative ways to package and present them. When I first saw someone give away a “bouquet” of soap flowers, I thought that was just the cutest idea. It reminded me of my succulent Valentine. With just a little ingenuity, we can refresh an existing gift idea.
It’s actually very easy to make your own soap flowers. All you need is the right rose-shaped soap mould!
This post will cover…
Sometimes bubbles can form in your soap like they did with mine. Gently tapping the mould after you pour the soap prevents the bubbles.
Choosing the Right Soap Flower Moulds
You can get very different-looking soap flowers based on the type of mould you choose. I like moulds with a design on one side and are flat on the other side. Not only do these look pretty, but they are also the most functional in terms of soap.
Another popular soap rose mould option are these ones, which have a very different shape. I have not personally used these ones since I don’t like the shape as much when it comes to actually using the soap.
Make sure your mould is made of silicone, as this allows you to easily remove the soap without ruining the flower shape.
Your soap mould should always be washed and fully dry before you use it.
Packaging Your Soap Flowers
Packaging is where you can get as creative as you like and create unique gifts using your soap roses. Most people choose to display their soap roses in chocolate boxes (like I did with my succulent Valentine). I suggest using a box with a clear top so you can really show off the soap flowers.
If you want to make these into a bouquet, you can insert paper sticks for making lollipops and cake pops. Do this right after you pour your soap into the mould so it can firmly be set with the soap. Just be sure to get some that are tall enough for your display.
Add a nice soap dish to your soap flowers for an extra bonus when gifting.
Make Your Own Soap Flowers
This recipe is what I used to make my own soap flowers. You can choose to change the scent and colouring based on your personal preferences. The base of this soap is my 50/50 recipe, made of equal parts coconut oil and olive oil.
If this is your first time making soap, I highly recommend you check out my more detailed step-by-step instructions here first.
Materials
There are materials I use for every soap-making project, such as safety gear, a kitchen scale, an immersion blender, and more. You can read more about those materials in this post.
For this recipe specifically, you will want your soap flower moulds. Choose one of these options:
Combine different moulds to create a whole array of flowers for your bouquet.
Ingredients
For exact measurements, see the recipe at the bottom of this post.
Start by putting on your safety gear and weighing all your ingredients using a kitchen scale.
Over low-medium heat, gently heat together your coconut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and butter of choice. I do this in either a stainless steel double boiler or a Turkish coffee pot.
Avoid overheating your oils by melting them down over low-medium heat.
While the oils gently heat, you’ll make your lye water. This needs to be done in a well-ventilated space since the chemical reaction creates strong fumes. Also, do so in a heat-proof container since the reaction generates lots of sudden heat. Add your lye to your water and stir until fully dissolved.
Both your oils and lye water need to be 115°F before combining. Place the container in an ice bath in the sink to cool down your lye water.
Make sure to combine your lye and water in a heat-proof container
When both the oils and the lye water are at the right temperature, add the oil to a large mixing bowl and slowly pour in the lye water. Use an immersion blender to blend together for about a minute until the mixture reaches a light trace.
At this point, you can add in your scent and then blend again. I went with a peppermint and basil combination.
Find your favourite scent combination, or even pair it to match your flower moulds.
Next, you can add your colouring. You can swirl your soap like I did using this technique.
After the colour, you can pour your soap into the soap mould. Gently tap the mould on the counter to help remove any bubbles.
Cover the mould in a towel and place somewhere warm for 48 hours for it to set.
After 48 hours, your soap flowers should come out easily.
After 48 hours, remove the soap from the mould. Let it sit on a wire rack and cure for six weeks before using (and gifting!).
Package and gift your soap, or save it all for yourself. Enjoy!
Soap needs to cure for six weeks to complete the saponification process.
Frequently Asked Questions About Soap Flowers
How do you use soap flowers?
Use these soap flowers the same way you would any other soap. It’s great to use for the whole body. Leave the bar soap on a soap tray to keep it from getting squishy and soft. Use it in conjunction with a loofah for a luscious lather, though this is optional.
How long do soap flowers last?
One of my bars of soap typically lasts about two months if one person uses it. The flower design will fade after you use it but will last about two weeks before it looks like regular soap.
Can soap flowers touch water?
Of course! However, once the rose-shaped soap gets wet and used, it will lose its design. If you want to keep them as decoration, I don’t recommend getting them wet.
Are you planning to make these soap flowers for yourself or to give them as a gift? Let me know in the comments below!
More Soap Recipes to Try
Homemade Soap Flowers
These swirled soap flowers are ideal for creating a beautiful and unique soap bouquet for gifting.
Put on your safety gear, then weigh your ingredients.
Heat your oils and butter over low heat until it reaches 115°F.
In a well-ventilated area, add lye to your water in a heat-proof container. Stir until fully dissolved. Cool in an ice bath until it reaches 115°F.
When they’re the lye water and oils are both 115°F, add them together in a large mixing bowl. Blend with an immersion blender until it reaches a light trace.
Add your essential oils and blend again.
Make a swirl by adding green mica to one side of the bowl and blue mica to the other. Mix them in place using the immersion blender. Use a chopstick to blend a couple of swirls in the bowl before pouring.
Pour in the soap mould. Let sit somewhere warm for 48 hours.
After 48 hours, remove the soap from the mould. Let it cure on a wire rack for six weeks before using.
A recent study by Hampshire-based life insurance broker Reassured has revealed the most popular hobbies for UK retirees.
They conducted the research after establishing that Google searches for the term ‘hobbies for retirees’ had increased by 52% over the past year. They wanted to provide some insight to help answer this query.
Reassured, who specialise in providing over 60 life insurance, surveyed 1,000 men and women who have left the workplace and are looking for new exciting ways to fill their free time.
This is what they found…
Gardening is number 1
Gardening was at the top of the list as the most popular hobby for retirees, with an impressive 35% of those polled saying it was their favourite thing to do.
Gardening has long been recognised as a healthy activity that can really help you to relax and release stress. In fact, according to a study by Psych Central, people over the age of sixty who garden could lower their risk of developing dementia by 36%.
Was there a difference between men and women?
No, gardening was ranked as the number one hobby in the study for both men and women.
Country walks/hiking takes 2nd place
Coming second in the survey was country walking/hiking, with 30% of respondents stating this was their favourite activity.
The simple act of putting one foot in front of the other can have huge health benefits, both physically and mentally. According to a study by the Mayo Clinic, those who take regular brisk walks could live up to twenty years longer than those who don’t walk regularly.
Aside from the physical benefits, walking or hiking can be a great social activity too. This could be especially beneficial if you are living alone during your retirement.
What other hobbies were identified in the findings?
The third most popular hobby for retirees was to read during retirement. Whether it’s a crime novel that helps transport you to a different place, or a “How to” book to help educate yourself, spending newfound free time with a good book is a popular choice among retirees.
In fourth place was travelling, whether that be in the UK or abroad. Obviously, this activity is more dependent on having the necessary finances than the hobbies listed above, but travelling can be a great way to spend your retirement years. There’s a wide range of seniors group package holidays on the market, providing a great way of meeting new people who are at a similar stage of life.
Interestingly, cooking was in fifth position in the study. For many of us these days, with our lives running at 100mph, meals are often a case of throwing something together between finishing work and collecting the children. However, retirees with more time on their hands can view this essential chore as more of a hobby, and explore different cuisines, courses and skills.
Did the hobbies differ between men and women?
As mentioned above, gardening was identified as the favourite hobby for both men and women. But what about the other hobbies listed in the study?
Yes, there was a difference between the genders. For women, the second most popular hobby for retirees was cooking, followed by reading. For men, it was walking/hikingfollowed by travelling.
This may not be a bad thing. If you’re not used to spending all your time with your spouse, then having different hobbies could provide some welcome relief!
The strange hobbies?
The survey did unearth some less likely hobbies, including making homemade wines and going to the pub. Other activities included model railways, caravanning, recording music and family genealogy.
Whatever new hobby you choose to take up or old hobby you revive, it’s important for your mental and physical wellbeing that you consider how you will spend your additional free time.
Emotional health coach, well-being, and self-care expert Vanessa Louise Moore explains; “There are a huge number of benefits to having a hobby in retirement – upon your mind and body. Whilst it’s crucial to take this well-earned time to rest, often we as humans struggle without a feeling of purpose. Something to look forward to or a project to get your teeth into will wake you up in the mornings with a spring in your step, excited for the day ahead and keeps you physically moving too.”
Moore adds; “A hobby doesn’t need to be wildly extravagant or unusual, even the simplest of choices such as gardening will provide you with relaxation, a sense of achievement and stress-relief. Taking a class in something you’ve always wanted to try will maintain the social aspect of being around others that you may come to miss when leaving the workplace, it will also boost your confidence and help you explore hidden talents you may never have been able to before.”
If you are in or nearing retirement, we hope this article has given you some good ideas and inspired you to try something new in this exciting life stage.
The pictures I have included are from my flower garden in Sea Girt, New Jersey. I have been growing peonies for about 10 years. Peonies are my passion, and after meeting Kathleen Gagan, the enthusiastic owner of Peony’s Envy in Bernardsville, New Jersey, I knew I had to try my hand at growing peonies! I originally had more peonies when I lived in Chatham, New Jersey, but have recently moved to Sea Girt, where I have a much smaller property and, therefore fewer peonies.
Thank you for allowing me to share pictures of my little peony garden, which still bring me great joy!
Intersectional peonies are hybrids between tree peonies, which have woody stems, and the herbaceous peonies that die back to the ground each winter. The hybrids have great vigor, and they combine the large flowers and wide color range of tree peonies with the longer-lasting blooms of herbaceous peonies.
Look at the size of this herbaceous peony bloom!
This intensely colored red herbaceous peony has a type of bloom called an anemone form, with normal petals around the edge and smaller petaloids filling the center of the bloom.
Note the discrete metal ring holding this red peony upright. Many peonies have such huge flowers that they need a little help standing up straight.
Now THAT is a bright flower! This is a semi-double form, with extra layers of petals, but there are still some visible yellow stamens in the center of the bloom.
This row of gorgeous peonies in front of a hedge looks perfect.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
It was chance that led me to crush a leaf of northern bayberry, a hardy shrub that grows up and down the Northeastern coast of the United States and into Canada. It was 2011, and I was on a barrier island in Brooklyn, heading to the beach. Bayberry covered the summer dunes like a ruffled green throw. As I opened my hand, the scent of the bruised leaf whispered, “Cook me!” In my garden-designing life I had overlooked this native duneland shrub until I learned its value as a tough rooftop plant, able to withstand wind, baking sun, and dry conditions. And now that uplifting aroma magnified its appeal. I brought home some leaves.
Bayberry is now a staple in my kitchen, at every stage. From its delicate spring foliage and small flowers through the leaves’ slow midsummer toughening, and into its fall intensity, bayberry is useful.
Above: Northern bayberry on the shoreline of Jamaica Bay, New York.
Bayberry used to be classified botanically as Myrica pensylvanica. Now, it’s Morella pensylvanica. And this reflects its connections to other bayberries, like southern bayberry (also called southern wax myrtle), M. cerifera, and California wax myrtle (M. californica).
Above: Bayberries are dioecious, meaning male and female plants are separate; females bear fruit. Above: Spring’s tender leaves and buds.
Bayberry may be best known in New England for its fruit and its use in candle-making. The summer-ripe drupes are hard little blue nuggets coated in wax. Boil enough of them long enough, and the wax floats free. But I was more intrigued by the leaves. Most foraging resources I consulted at the time listed the dried leaf as the edible part, and no one spoke about using it as a fresh herb. But that intense, fresh, resinous fragrance was calling out to be used in quantity.
Above: Through early summer, bayberry leaves are tender enough to use like a soft herb.
While bayberry has a flavor profile reminiscent of Mediterranean bay leaf (Laurus nobilis), it is less pronounced and so I use more of it. Where you might deploy one bayleaf, use 10 bayberry leaves. While the leaves dry well, their flavor is bland and musty. This native herb sings when it is fresh.
Above: The green flower buds and tender tips of spring bayberry.
Spring’s bayberry leaves and flower buds are soft enough to chop finely and to use as prolifically as you would parsley or cilantro (although their flavors have nothing in common). They make delicious fresh herb crusts and stuffings, compound butter (slather on sliced baguette, wrap, and warm-through), and an intensely green and flavorful oil, which I freeze, to use in spoonfuls though the year.
Later, when the leaves are too fibrous to chew, they can be used whole to perfume infusions, cooking broths, seafood stews, poached mussels, roast chickens (stuff them under the skin and in the cavity), pies, sweet sauces, and even roasting or poaching fruit (they’re wonderful with plums).
Creating a sustainable home environment is increasingly vital, driving the adoption of energy-efficient appliances. These appliances not only consume less energy but also reduce carbon emissions, playing a key role in eco-friendly homes. From Energy Star-rated refrigerators to efficient lighting and tankless water heaters, they minimize environmental impact while saving costs.
Embracing energy-efficient appliances enables us to live comfortably while conserving resources, reducing greenhouse gas emissions, and combatting climate change. This conscious choice aligns with the growing trend towards sustainable living, fostering a greener future. Prioritizing energy efficiency in our homes is a powerful step towards a more sustainable and responsible lifestyle.
Understanding Energy Efficiency
Energy efficiency refers to using less energy to perform the same task, thereby reducing energy waste. Inefficient energy use not only results in higher utility bills but also contributes significantly to greenhouse gas emissions, leading to climate change.
Look for energy efficiency labels and certifications, such as Energy Star, when shopping for appliances to ensure you’re making an environmentally friendly choice.
The Role of Efficient Appliances in an Eco-Friendly Home
Switching to energy-efficient appliances is one of the most effective ways to reduce your home’s energy consumption. These appliances use less energy, conserve resources, and emit fewer greenhouse gases, making them a crucial component of an eco-friendly home.
Kitchen Appliances
In the realm of kitchen appliances, there are several options that can make your cooking area more energy-efficient and eco-friendly. Here’s a closer look at some of these appliances.
Energy-Efficient Refrigerators: Energy Star-rated refrigerators consume less energy and help cut utility costs. Besides, they help reduce your carbon footprint and keep food at the correct temperatures to prevent spoilage.
Efficient Dishwashers: Modern dishwashers, particularly those with Energy Star ratings, use less water and energy. They also come with features like soil sensors that determine the cleanliness of dishes to avoid unnecessary cycles.
Eco-friendly Ovens and Stoves: While the efficiency of ovens and stoves depends more on usage habits, choosing energy-efficient models and considering natural gas options can help save energy.
Laundry Appliances
Laundry appliances can be a significant energy consumer in many households, but choosing energy-efficient models can drastically reduce their impact.
Energy-Efficient Washing Machines: Energy Star-rated washing machines use less water and have efficient spin cycles, reducing drying time. Front-load washers are generally more efficient than top-load models.
Eco-Friendly Dryers: Energy-efficient dryers have moisture sensors that automatically shut off the machine when clothes are dry, thus conserving energy. Gas dryers are typically more energy-efficient than electric models.
Energy-Efficient Heating and Cooling Systems
In many homes, heating and cooling systems account for a substantial portion of energy consumption. Making these systems energy-efficient can significantly reduce energy usage, lower utility bills, and decrease greenhouse gas emissions.
Energy-efficient air conditioners, particularly those with Energy Star ratings, consume less electricity and provide the same cooling. It’s crucial to ensure the right size for your space and regular maintenance for optimal efficiency.
Energy-efficient heaters utilize less energy to generate heat. The efficiency also depends on the fuel type, with options like natural gas, propane, and electricity available.
Smart thermostats help maintain optimal temperatures and can be programmed to save energy when you’re away, significantly increasing your home’s energy efficiency.
Other Efficient Appliances and Systems
There are many other appliances and systems in your home that, when chosen wisely, can contribute significantly to energy savings and a greener lifestyle.
Choosing an energy-efficient water heater can significantly reduce your home’s energy use. Tankless water heaters, which heat water on demand rather than continuously heating a tank, are particularly effective. Although the initial cost may be higher, the long-term energy savings make this a smart investment.
Switching to LED or CFL bulbs can cut your lighting energy use by up to 75 percent. These efficient bulbs also have a longer lifespan, saving on replacement costs. Additionally, smart lighting systems offer further efficiency, enabling remote control and programmable schedules.
Tips for Maximizing Appliance Efficiency
While selecting energy-efficient appliances is a crucial step, how you use and maintain these appliances also impacts their efficiency. Here are some tips to maximize your appliance efficiency:
Understand Energy-Saving Modes: Many appliances come with energy-saving modes or settings. Understanding how to use these can lead to substantial energy savings.
Use Appliances During Off-Peak Hours: If your utility company charges different rates at different times, running your appliances during off-peak hours can save on energy costs.
Maintain Appliances Regularly: Regular maintenance can keep your appliances running at their best. For example, cleaning the filters in your air conditioner and dryer, defrosting your freezer regularly, and descaling your water heater can all improve efficiency.
Use Appliances Wisely: Only run your dishwasher and washing machine with full loads, and avoid opening the oven door frequently when cooking. Such habits can save energy.
Investing in energy-efficient appliances is an effective way to create an eco-friendly home. While it may require an initial investment, the long-term benefits in the form of reduced energy bills and a lower carbon footprint make it worthwhile.
Start small, perhaps with a single appliance, and gradually transition towards a greener and more energy-efficient lifestyle. Your actions can have a significant impact on our planet’s future.
If you’re new to fruit tree growing and pruning, you absolutely can’t go wrong with plums.
Some trees will stop producing well unless you give them the proper chop. But prunes will keep on chugging despite your neglect.
Of course, they’ll do much better if you treat them right, and that includes regular, strategic pruning.
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The real challenge with pruning plums is in the timing. It’s not hyperbole to say that pruning at the wrong time can kill your tree.
That might sound dramatic, but there’s a disease out there that attacks plums if you prune them at the wrong time of year.
Don’t worry, we’ll help you figure out when to start the work and everything else you need to know. Here’s what’s coming up in this guide:
There are two different stages of pruning. The first is establishing the ideal shape and the second is yearly maintenance.
Once a tree has been shaped, it’s your job to maintain it. This primarily involves removing dead, diseased, and deformed wood.
It’s not just about shaping and removing bad wood each year, though. This also helps the plant to stay productive.
Plums flower and fruit on either older wood or year-old wood, depending on the species.
When to Prune Plums
Generally, we prune plums in the summer or winter. That’s because these trees are extremely susceptible to a disease called silver leaf.
Silverleaf. Photo via Alamy.
If you prune in the spring or fall, you run the risk of infecting your trees with the fungus that causes this disease, Chondrostereum purpureum.
The fungus thrives in the wet weather of fall and spring, and that’s when this disease spreads. Open wounds provide an opportunity to attack.
It can live on numerous species in the ornamental garden, including maples, hawthorns, willows, lilacs, cherries, apples, and pears. But plums are the most susceptible.
When the disease is present, the leaves take on a silvery sheen that is awfully pretty, but it’s a sign of bad news. There’s no known cure for it, and it can spread like wildfire in the orchard.
When you do prune, do it during a period of dry weather. Conditions should be dry for at least a week before pruning and predicted to be dry for a week after. The longer the weather remains dry, the better.
Don’t feel like you have to wait for summer or winter – your local conditions are what matter most.
If you regularly have a dry stretch in fall or spring, go ahead and do your pruning then.
Dry weather is more important than the time of year. You can even do part of the work in the summer and a bit more again in the winter.
Overgrown specimens should be shaped back up over a series of years.
Of course, if you see diseased or broken limbs, these should be pruned right away. Pruning diseased parts regularly is the first step to preventing diseases from decimating your trees.
There’s some evidence that the fungicide furmecyclox can help prevent the disease when applied to the pruning wounds, but since that’s not available to the home gardener, we have to stick to managing our timing.
The sap that trees exude after being cut actually provides natural protection, so don’t apply a wound sealant.
You don’t need anything special to keep your trees in tip-top shape. The usual tools apply here.
Shears or secateurs
Loppers
A tree saw
A ladder
You need something to take off the large limbs and something for the smaller growth.
You will probably also need something to help you reach those taller branches, like a tree saw or a ladder.
Know Your Terms
Before we jump in, let’s make sure we’re all on the same page.
The trunk is, of course, the mail central support. From there emerge the limbs or branches. These are the scaffolding of your tree and we won’t trim this portion.
Vase-shaped trees have about five limbs. Central leader shapes can have about the same number, or sometimes a few more. These are usually at least three feet above the ground.
In addition to the main limbs, a tree will have side branches, which are sometimes called laterals.
These are the twigs, shoots, and smaller branches. These side branches might have smaller branches growing from them as well.
Most of the fruit is formed on what are called spurs. A fruit spur is a short growth that grows at about a 45-degree angle from the branch.
These spurs typically grow on year-old or two- to three-year-old branches.
Trees will also have leaf and flower buds, but we don’t really have to worry about these since they’re not relevant to the pruning process.
Pruning Young Trees
Young trees require special pruning to set them up for success.
If you purchase a tree that is over three years old – and most are – it is probably already pruned to the appropriate shape, and all you need to do is maintain it.
Pruning a tree when it’s young gives you a shape that is not only more productive, thanks to better light exposure and air circulation, but it is also easier to prune in the future.
You also want a structure that can bear the weight of the fruit.
For common plums (Prunus domestica), if you have a tree that’s under a year old, trim the main stem to about three to four feet tall, so long as there are about five or six spurs below where you trim it.
Make the cut just above a spur. Remove any side shoots by cutting them right at the ground.
The year after planting, the young tree will send out new shoots below the cut. The one nearest to the top that grows straight up will become the central leader.
Leave it in place. If it’s growing a bit crooked, use growing tape or clothespins to hold it upright.
Allow the lower branches to develop over the course of the year. The following year, remove all but four or five of the limbs.
You’re looking to keep branches that make a 45-degree angle with the main stem. These will be the strongest.
The next year, prune to include another four or five main branches, so that you have up to 10 total.
Japanese or Chinese plums (Prunus salicina) need to be pruned into a vase shape. To do this, find a group of four or five spurs about two or three feet above the base.
Make a 45-degree cut right above each spur, sloping away from the spur.
The buds below the pruning cut will grow outwards, creating what we call a vase shape. Prune off any lower branches below the top four or five as they emerge, as well as any competing branches that try to grow within the “vase.”
For both types of plums, this initial shape should be maintained for the first few years. At about five years, you can start pruning according to the methods outlined below.
Pruning Japanese Plums
Japanese plums flower and fruit on year-old wood, and they’re much more vigorous than the common species.
That means we need to prune to preserve young wood without overloading the tree, or you won’t be getting much fruit.
Cut off any that grow below the main limbs of the vase. Next, cut off any crossing or deformed limbs.
The branches best able to support fruit are called scaffolding branches. These are the ones that grow about 45 degrees in relation to the trunk.
Those that have a narrower or wider crotch tend to crack when laden with fruit. Aim to leave as many of these scaffolding branches in place as possible.
Now you want to go in and encourage new growth, since that’s where the fruit will develop. Look for the longer branches.
Cut them back in front of a fruiting spur, leaving about a dozen spurs on the branch. This will encourage a new section to grow with new fruiting spurs.
If a branch is a bit short, under a foot long, don’t trim it back. Let it grow some more length first.
Finally, trim off any water sprouts and thin out the branches, concentrating on older laterals, so you’re left with about half of the growth that you started with.
You want to do this so there aren’t too many limbs producing fruit and overloading the tree.
Now you should have the right balance of productive wood while creating an open vase shape that allows for good air circulation and access for harvesting.
Larger branches should be cut with the one-two-three method.
This involves first cutting a branch from the bottom about halfway through at a point several inches out from the trunk. Then cut off the length of the branch coming from the top down just an inch or two out from the undercut.
Finally, cut the remaining stump off at the collar. You don’t want to make the cut flush with the trunk.
You should start the cut at the crotch of the branch and trunk and then cut down and out at about a 45-degree angle. Don’t leave a stub of the branch in place, since this can introduce disease.
Smaller branches should be clipped flush with the main branch.
Pruning Common Plums
Common or European plums (Prunus domestica) fruit on wood that is two years old or older.
Branches that are 10 or 20 years old might taper off in production as they age. When shaping up these trees, give them a central leader shape.
Again, you want to retain those growing at about a 45-degree angle from the trunk.
The first step is to remove any dead, diseased, dying, or deformed wood (we call these the four “Ds”).
When we say “deformed,” we’re talking about branches that cross or rub against each other, or that are bent or growing in rather than out.
Next, prune the new, young whip shoots back by about half to encourage branching. Cut in front of a fruit spur.
Now, you can thin the tree out a bit. Just keep in mind that these trees fruit best on young wood. Don’t prune off wood that is under three years old. Target older wood instead.
There are a few common plums that grow horizontal branches. ‘Victoria’ is one such cultivar. For these, just focus on thinning and not so much on choosing branches with the perfect 45-degree shape.
To help the branch balance itself so it won’t break when laden with fruit, prune just above an upward-facing shoot.
Use the cutting guidelines described above to make the cuts.
Fruit Thinning
Plums tend to produce a larger crop one year and then a smaller crop the next.
In those big years, the trees can be a bit over-enthusiastic. The best way to help the tree out is to thin the fruit a little.
This should be done twice a year when the developing fruit is present.
The first time is when the fruits are young and immature, usually around May. Look the tree over and pluck off some of the fruits if a branch looks overladen.
Basically, you’re looking for fruits that touch each other or look like they might in the future. Take up to half of them off the branch.
The second round is done later, as the fruits are nearing maturity.
Look the plums over and remove any damaged or diseased fruits and any that exhibit signs of pest damage.
Prune Those Prunes… er, Plums
Plums don’t ask for much and they give so much in return. A single tree gives you enough fruits for all of your jam, pie, kuchen, and cobbler needs.
Even neglected trees will offer up handfuls of fruit.
But we don’t want handfuls, we want enough fruit to fill buckets and buckets! Pruning can help to make that happen.
Have you run into any problems pruning your trees? Need a little guidance? Tell us what you’re experiencing in the comments, and we’ll see if we can help.
Keep going with that orchard of yours. If you’re wondering about how to maintain fruit trees in other ways, our guides can shed some light on the subject. Give the following a read next:
You gotta love a plant that makes you do a double-take. One that really makes you pull your shades down for a second, unobstructed eyeful. Take the buttonbush, for example.
At first glance, your gaze may pass over a buttonbush’s rounded habit and lush green leaves. Don’t get me wrong, they’re certainly pretty. But those features aren’t exactly rare in a deciduous shrub.
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What’ll quickly draw your eyes back to the plant, though, are its unique blooms: spheres of white, fragrant flowers, out of which protrude long, skinny floral styles.
When taking it all in, the flower reminds many folks of a pincushion. Personally, I see it as more of a ping-pong ball that’s gotten its money’s worth from an acupuncturist.
Regardless of what you think the blooms resemble, they’re uniquely spherical and interesting enough for you to really lose yourself in their beauty.
And after the flowers later give way to colorful, ball-like fruits, you’re in for an aesthetic treat all over again.
Ready to grow these shrubs for yourself? Then strap yourself in for this growing guide.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
What Is Buttonbush?
Buttonbushes – aka honey bells, button willows, and globe flowers – are woody deciduous shrubs from the Rubiaceae family, alongside relatives such as energy-boosting Coffea plants and malaria-treating species of Cinchona.
Hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 11, Cephalanthus occidentalis is widely distributed across its native continent of North America, spanning an area ranging as far north and east as Nova Scotia, as far west as California’s Central Valley, and as far south as Mexico.
Prone to growing wild in wet and/or lowland spots, buttonbushes typically reach mature heights and spreads of three to 15 feet.
With a rounded and open growing habit, C. occidentalis spreads via suckering, and often requires some pruning to avoid a lanky or disheveled look. With some well-executed limbing up, a buttonbush can even have the look of a small tree.
Buttonbush is one of the later US native shrubs to leaf out, with oval to elliptical green leaves that appear in late spring.
Autumnal colors can be insignificant, either yellow or mottled brown. When the leaves drop, the gray, furrowing-with-age bark becomes more apparent.
In summer, the aforementioned flowers appear, with their globe-shaped, white, and scented inflorescences bearing needle-like styles.
These flowers are arranged in circular clusters on the ends of stems, which the genus name Cepalanthus – from the Greek kephale and anthos, respectively meaning “head” and “flower” – roughly alludes to.
After fertilization via avian and/or insect pollinators, the flowers give way to hard, globular, yellow to red fruits in late summer. Throughout the fall, they mature and darken to brown. These often persist throughout the winter, taking on black hues.
Collectively, the leaves, flowers, and fruits of buttonbushes are super attractive to a wide variety of critters.
Dozens of bird species love the plant, from hummingbirds to songbirds to waterfowl. Insects such as bees, butterflies, and moths are drawn to the plant as well.
Cultivation and History
C. occidentalis is not just visually appealing – it’s also quite useful.
Medicinally, various groups of Native Americans have found many applications for buttonbush.
They used the bark and/or the roots to treat diarrhea, inflammation, rheumatism, headaches, fevers, toothaches, and venereal disease.
A Note of Caution:
C. occidentalis contains poisonous cephalathin, which can induce vomiting, convulsions, and paralysis when ingested.
Any medicinal experimentation with buttonbush should be done at your own risk and under the guidance of a professional.
The root systems and growth tendencies of buttonbushes make these shrubs helpful for controlling erosion and stabilizing riparian zones, i.e. land that’s right alongside bodies of water.
As a major attractor of wildlife, C. occidentalis is an important plant in its natural ecosystem, a position that conservationists aim to preserve.
But let’s not forget a buttonbush’s aesthetics. While maybe not as formal in appearance as a well-trimmed boxwood shrub, C. occidentalis is super interesting and inviting to look at, which makes it well worth adding to the landscape.
Propagation
Trying to propagate some buttonbush? The best ways of doing so are by sowing seeds, rooting cuttings, or simply transplanting.
From Seed
Remember those fruits from earlier? Upon closer examination, you’ll find that they’re actually composed of numerous arrowhead-shaped seeds.
Once the fruits are a ripe reddish-brown in fall, break apart the fruits to reveal the individual seeds.
Once you’ve got some seeds – either collected or purchased – they’re ready for sowing in fall, prior to the arrival of frost. Thankfully, they don’t require any scarification or stratification.
From here, you can either sow them directly in-ground, or sow them into outdoor containers.
If you can’t provide protection from harsh winter conditions or competing plants in their intended permanent location, then it’s best to go with propagating in containers until the seedlings are ready to transplant.
In-ground seeds should be spaced two to four feet apart and planted just below the surface in moist, fertile soil before the arrival of first frost in colder zones.
Container-bound seeds should each occupy a three-inch container filled with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite, also sown just beneath the surface. Ensure that the seedlings will receive full sun to partial shade.
Moisten the soil around the seeds, and be sure to maintain that moisture as the seedlings grow and develop.
For containerized seeds in cold conditions, move them in and out of shelter as needed, whether it’s into a cold frame, greenhouse, or otherwise more protected part of the garden.
Repot container-grown seedlings if they begin to outgrow their containers, in pots about two inches larger than their root systems.
After about a year of growth, containerized seedlings are ready for transplanting into their forever homes.
From Cuttings
Want a perfect genetic clone of your OG buttonbush? Then propagating cuttings is the way to go.
In summer, use a sterilized blade to take softwood cuttings four to six inches in length from the ends of young branches.
Defoliate the bottom half of each, and dip the cut ends into a rooting hormone, like this IBA powder from Bonide that’s available from Arbico Organics.
Stick the dipped end of each cutting into its own three-inch container filled with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and sand, then water it in.
Place the containers somewhere indoors where they will receive bright, indirect sunlight, such as a windowsill. Rooting should occur in a month’s time.
Repot as needed, making sure to keep the media moist all the while.
The following spring or summer, harden off the rooted cuttings by leaving them outside in full sun to partial shade for 30 to 60 minutes before bringing them back indoors.
Add an additional half to full hour of outdoor exposure each day until the plants can spend a full day outdoors.
At this point, they’re ready for transplanting!
From Seedlings/Transplanting
Prior to transplanting, prepare planting sites in fertile garden soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, situated in full sun to partial shade.
Space these sites at least two feet apart. For some on-the-house moisture, select sites adjacent to a body of water such as a pond or stream.
For small varieties or juvenile specimens that you wish to grow in containers, you can prepare appropriately-sized pots, filling each with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite.
Dig a hole that’s about as deep and a bit wider than each transplant’s root system. Take the transplants and carefully lower them into their prepared holes.
Take the dug-out soil, mix in some humus such as compost or well-rotted manure, and begin to backfill the holes. Alternate backfilling with watering until the holes are filled and watered in. Now you’re done, kudos!
How to Grow
To end up with those fabulous flowers and fruits, optimal cultivation is essential. Let’s dive into what “optimal” means for a buttonbush.
Climate and Exposure Needs
For a C. occidentalis to thrive, it needs to be grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 11. A pretty wide range, if you ask me.
When it comes to exposure, shoot for full sun to partial shade. Full sun is best, if peak flowering is the goal.
Partial shade definitely works as well, but you might end up with less abundant blooms.
Soil Needs
C. occidentalis prefers moist and fertile soil.
Placement near water is perfect for ensuring the former, while working an inch or two of organic matter into the root zone each spring does wonders for the latter.
Water and Fertilizer Needs
Buttonbush loves water, and this plant is thirstier than a college town on Thursday night.
Provide ample moisture by ensuring the soil never dries out. If you feel dryness, make with the irrigation!
Don’t fret about overwatering – C. occidentalis can tolerate wet soils.
These shrubs can definitely handle the excess agua, whether it’s from occasional flooding or being submerged in three feet of standing water.
A slow-release, water-soluble fertilizer applied every year in spring will provide a punch of additional nutrients.
Growing Tips
Full sun is optimal, but partial shade works too.
Add one to two inches of organic matter to the root zone each spring.
Don’t let the soil dry out!
Pruning and Maintenance
As with other plants, promptly pruning any damaged, diseased, or dead tissues is a smart move.
A more involved session of pruning – with the goal of shaping the shrub – can be conducted in spring, prior to the flush of new growth.
Always use sharp and sterile tools, and never remove more than a third of the plant in one go!
If your shrub is gangly and out of control, you always cut it down in early spring to revitalize it and make it more manageable.
The plant should quickly grow back to try and put its roots and shoots back in proportion.
Maintaining a few inches of mulch around the plant’s crown would be wise, to help retain moisture.
Just don’t mulch any specimens growing in standing water, as floating mulch does not make for a pretty water feature.
Aka Sputnik™, ‘Bieberich’ can trace its origins to Oklahoma, where it was found by Sunshine Nursery’s Steve Bieberich in a native stand.
Reaching heights and spreads of eight to 10 feet, this variety has blooms with a pale pinkness to them, and glossy green leaves with coppery bronze fall hues. How’s that for unique?
Sugar Shack
Wielding the trade name Sugar Shack®, ‘SMCOSS’ is the smallest cultivar on this list, with a mature size of three to four feet in both height and width.
A dense variety of a rather loose and open species, ‘SMCOSS’ also has red-tinged leaves and especially vibrant red fruits.
This cultivar originated from a controlled breeding program in Grand Haven, Michigan.
Thankfully, a buttonbush suffers hardly any serious pest and disease issues. And in most cases, proper cultivation and sanitation will turn that “hardly any” into a hard “no.”
But while villainous insects and pathogens won’t really give your C. occidentalis a hard time, deer and drought could very well strike.
Deer
Deer are notorious for eating practically everything, and a buttonbush definitely falls under that umbrella.
Unless deer-sized munching holes in foliage sound aesthetic to you, you should keep an eye out.
Deer repellents work well as a deterrent on a plant-by-plant basis, while a well-constructed deer fence will help defend the plantings throughout your property.
This granular deer repellent from Enviro Pro is a fantastic product, and it’s available from Amazon.
Drought
C. occidentalis doesn’t really suffer from root rot, a condition that can plague plants with less tolerance for water.
But with this preference for wetness comes a dislike of dryness, one that can leave a drought-affected buttonbush with yellowed, wilted, and scorched foliage.
In severe cases, drought can cause leaf drop and the plant’s eventual death.
The cure is the opposite of the cause – you gotta give the plant more water. Most of the time, this should resolve things.
But if drought has well and truly killed your plant, the best course of action is to dig it up and try again with a new specimen.
Best Uses
Aside from the fun “What the…?” effect that the flowers can cause in someone who’s new to buttonbushes, C. occidentalis looks pretty neat, especially after some proper pruning.
In the landscape, these shrubs look great next to water features, as shrub borders, and in native gardens.
Smaller, containerized specimens offer growers additional placement options, if desired.
The beautiful flowers and fruits are appealing to people and animals alike. Along with attracting wildlife, a buttonbush offers a fantastic means of controlling soil erosion, especially when it’s planted near water.
I mean, what other idiom punnily describes a shrub with perfectly spherical flowers and fruits?
For a plant that attracts wildlife, controls erosion, and is just straight-up interesting to look at during its blooming and fruiting periods, moisture-tolerant buttonbush is the obvious choice. And now that you know how to grow one, I think your next move is also obvious.
Questions, comments, button idioms and puns that I might have missed? Put them in the comments section below.
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is an aromatic culinary and medicinal herb that’s perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 and a summer annual in other regions.
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This article discusses two ways to prune the plant to keep it compact, lush and leafy, and long-lived.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Let’s begin with a brief review of cultivation.
Basil Growing Basics
A basil seed produces an upright stem with pairs of opposite leaves, beginning with cotyledons or “seed” leaves and followed by true leaves.
When the plant is six inches tall, it’s past the seedling stage and can withstand the shock of being trimmed, provided you don’t remove more than a third of any given stem, or a third of the overall volume, at one time.
When we don’t cut it back, the stems can get “leggy,” putting energy into growing taller instead of making lots of foliage.
The space between the leaves elongates, resulting in a sparse, fragile appearance and susceptibility to breakage.
The cultural requirements for cultivation include full sun, organically-rich, well-drained soil, and nitrogen-rich fertilizer.
Regular watering is essential to maintain moist but not soggy soil. Moisture is crucial during peak summer heat that can stress plants and cause them to flower prematurely or “bolt.”
Bolting is a sudden shift from vegetative to reproductive growth, during which leaf production stops and spikes of purple or white flowers grow, signaling the end of the life cycle.
Plants with leggy stems, and those about to set seed, benefit from pruning to promote a stable form, optimal leaf production, and longevity.
Let’s find out how to trim leggy stems and those about to set seed.
Pruning to Address Legginess
To prune a leggy stem, pinch or snip it with clean scissors at a 45° downward angle about a quarter of an inch above a pair of true leaves.
As mentioned above, do not remove more than a third of the total length to avoid shock.
The angled cut facilitates water runoff to inhibit rotting that may be caused by rainwater falling on outdoor plants.
When watering, the nozzle should always be pointed at the soil, not the foliage.
The reason for locating a pair of leaves is that this is a natural growing point. By cutting here, you stimulate two new stems to grow for a denser, better-balanced plant with more leaves.
Prune as needed.
Use the clippings the same day or see our guide to drying basil for instructions on preserving them for future use.
Preventing Seed Set
If you see buds or flowers, it’s not too late to turn things around.
Pinch or snip off the budding or blooming tips.
Remove the entire leafy cluster at the tip by cutting a quarter of an inch above the first pair of leaves beneath the top cluster. From this growing point, two new shoots will sprout.
Pruning shifts energy back to leaf production. It is essential as the plant not only begins to die back post-bloom, the remaining leaves will also become bitter.
The buds and flowers are edible, so after trimming, garnish a savory dish and enjoy.
You don’t have to wait for buds to pinch the tip foliage back. Doing so at any time is beneficial because it stimulates fresh, dense growth.
Better Basil with Pruning
Cut back leggy stems and pinch the growing tips to prevent seed setting for compact, productive, and long-lived plants.
And why not take it a step further?
Incorporate these pruning techniques into your harvesting practice as well.
For example, if you spot a leggy stalk with large, floppy, older leaves, use it first. And remember to make your cut a quarter of an inch above a pair of leaves.
If you need a few sprigs for dinner and your plant is relatively uniform, pinch several tips at random rather than trimming a length of stem to preserve the overall balance you are striving to maintain.
Make a note in your garden planner to prune the basil plant regularly, and enjoy abundant and flavorful harvests.
Do you grow basil at home? Tell us about it in the comments section below.
If you found this guide helpful, we recommend reading the following guides to growing basil next:
We picked the second watermelon of the season from Ezekiel’s landrace watermelon project.
When I cut it open, he went, “Oh shoot…” as it fell in half. The inside was pink and white, and looked unripe – though the melon had appeared finished in the field.
Then we tasted it, and it was sweet and delicious.
Apparently, this particular melon is just pink!
The flavor is mild and sweet, getting more tart towards the thick rind. Very refreshing.
The seeds are large and white, with the occasional dark seed mixed in. I wish we had taken a picture of the exterior, but we forgot to do so. It looked like a classic, oval melon, and clocked in at 15lbs.
It looked rather like this melon:
Looks like it’ll be an interesting year as we see what has happened with our various crosses. I’m curious to see if we get any more orange melons.
Annual gardening plants classed as annuals are those which complete their life cycle within the space of one year and in this group, we find some of our most useful garden flowers. We also commonly place in this class a few flowers such as the snapdragons (antirrhinum) and the ageraturns which are not true annuals but which are best handled as such.
The annuals have many uses. They are indispensable in the cutting garden, giving a wealth of bloom throughout the summer and early autumn months; they are of value in the herbaceous border, coming into flower after the first riot of spring bloom has passed, and carrying gallantly on through the heat of midsummer when many of the perennials are quiescent; and if a garden is to be but a temporary affair, to be enjoyed for the space of but a single season, the annuals may be used as the only material in the planting scheme. For window boxes and porch boxes, for potted plants on the terrace or on the low coping of a wall, for the indoor window garden, and for winter bloom in the small greenhouse the annuals can hardly be equaled.
These small, dainty plants from California are of a spreading habit and the leaves are pale green, deeply cut and slightly hairy. In Nemophila menziesi var. insignis, Baby-blue-eyes, the flowers are cup shaped, blue or white. The tips of the petals of N. maculata, the Spotted Nemophila, are spotted with deep purple, the rest being white. Most other Nemophilas found in the catalogs are varieties of these two species. The plants grow a foot tall and are profuse bloomers throughout the Summer.
Nemophilas differ from Phacelias, to which they are related, by having reflexed or spreading appendages in the sinuses of the calyx.
Where to Plant. These charming little annuals are excellent for edging beds, or for informal low groups in the border. Their long season of bloom commends them for wider cultivation. They are best grown in partial shade and in the moister soils. They are rather intolerant of heat. They are excellent pot plants for the greenhouse and clumps in the rockery are pleasing.
GENERAL. The seed may be sown in April in the open border where the plants are to grow. They should be thinned to stand at least 6 inches apart. It is said that these flowers do best in soil, which is not very rich, and in the cooler regions of the country.
When one visits an old lady’s flower garden, no matter how small it may be, Portulacas are generally seen encroaching on the wide walks and in other little out-of-the-way places where the dry conditions would support few other plants. The dazzling, glossy-petaled flowers are clear yellow, white, scarlet, crimson, orange, and rose. The double sorts are most charming, and in many ways are superior to the singles. The plants are of a creeping habit, the leaves being moss like and almost hidden by the flowers. The seeds, which resemble iron filings, have a metallic luster and are produced in a small, boxlike capsule; when ripe the lid falls off and reveals them.
Where to Plant. About each home, there are spots so dry that nothing seems to grow in them. It is in such dry, sun-beaten situations that Portulaca thrives to the best advantage. It is, therefore, a good ground cover for beds, for edgings and for rock work. When planted in urns and other receptacles which are apt to be neglected in the Summer, these flowers seem to go right on blooming in spite of our inattention.
GENERAL. Portulacas generally self-sow, and once planted persist from year to year. Seeds may be sown at the end of April and the seedlings thinned to stand 4 inches apart. The seed should be merely raked into the soil and not deeply covered. If given water and a little attention at the start the plants will thrive nicely.
Only a small proportion of the double sorts come true to seed in double form. These sorts also set seed but sparsely.
There are several annual Flaxes, including Linum grandiflorum (coccineum), the Scarlet Flax, about a foot tall, with wide-open, glossy flowers, and L. usilatissimum, the Flax of commerce which bears blue flowers, and grows 3 feet tall.
Where to Plant. The Flax is truly beautiful and forms clumps in the border where the glowing flowers are a delight of gracefulness. It is also an excellent edging plant and worthy of a place in a rockery.
Commercial Flax has been grown for many years and has escaped from the cultivated fields of many countries, and become wild. The species name, usitatissimum, means most useful and refers to the various parts, which have been used. It was a source of cloth before the foundation of Babylon. The Egyptian mummies are wrapped in linen made from fibers obtained from the stems of this species. In the early days of its cultivation, the plants were cut and soaked in water to dissolve out the gummy substance between the bark and stems. After drying, the stems were crushed by rollers and then beaten with broadswords. The fibers were then spun into threads. The Romans used linen for cords and sails, but not for garments. Linseed oil is made from the seeds, as well as flaxseed poultices and tea, well-known home remedies. Some persons believe that a flaxseed placed in the eye will help to remove other foreign substances.
GENERAL. Seed of Flax is perfectly hardy and may be sown early in the Spring. Thin the plants to stand 8 to 19 inches apart. Sowing additional seed several times during the Summer attains a succession of bloom.
(Name derived from chrysos, golden; anthos flower, refers to fact that some species are yellow)
The Annual Chrysanthemums are popular in England, but not well known here although they grow nicely in the United States. The most popular sorts are: Chrysanthemum coronarium, the Crowndaisy, or Garland C., which grows 3 feet tall and is typically yellow, either single or double. C. carinalum (tricolor) (Painted Daisy) (Tricolor Daisy) grows but 2 feet tall and is usually white with characteristic rings of purple and yellow at the center. In both sorts the leaves are rather thicker than those of most other annuals. C. segetum, the Corn-marigold, has bright yellow Daisies. The plants are sparse of leaves, which are notched but not deeply cut as in the other two sorts. This is a wildling in the grain fields of Europe.
Where to plant. These plants provide in the garden large masses of bloom which are interesting as cut flowers.
GENERAL. The seed may be started as early as March in a hotbed or else sown directly in the open in April. Give the plants well-enriched soil and allow at least a foot between plants. To make them branch profusely they should be pinched.
Detail information addressing 50 types of annuals and how to use them in your garden. Did you know some annuals are hardier than others? Our notes for each plant states the difference from hardy annual to hardy hardy annual.
H.A. Indicates that the plant is best raised as a hardy annual by seed sown in the open ground in the spring, or in some instances in the fall. This is stated where applicable. Such hardy annuals will withstand a normal winter in the open ground and will provide an earlier display than spring-sown seed.
H.H.A. Denotes a half-hardy annual which is a plant that is liable to damage by spring frost or maybe withered by perishing winds in the young stage. Such plants are raised from seed sown under glass in a temperature of about 6o°F (15°C), either in a greenhouse or in an electrically heated propagating frame.
H.B. Indicates a hardy biennial that takes two years to flower from seed and then dies. The seed is usually sown in the open ground in the early summer, the seedlings later being transplanted in rows to grow on, before being moved to their flowering positions in the fall or early spring.
H.H.P. This refers to a half-hardy perennial plant which may live for a number of years but requires the protection of a frost-free greenhouse during the winter. Such plants are often used for summer bedding displays; sometimes exceptionally good plants are increased by cuttings.
Annual Flowers
Adonis H.A., 1 – 1 ½ ft. Easily grown from seed sown in the spring in a sunny position, A. aestivalis bears small crimson flowers in June and July. The deep green, finely-cut leaves are also attractive.
Ageratum H.H.A., 6-18 in. This is a popular bedding plant with masses of fluffy little powder-puff-like flowers from July until fall frosts. The long-lasting flowers are mainly in shades of blue and retain their color without fading. Sow under glass in February or March and plant out in a sunny bed, window-box or another container towards the end of May. Dwarf kinds also make neat plants when grown in pots to flower in a cool greenhouse. Suitable varieties are ‘Blue Mink’, 6 in., powder blue; ‘Blue Color’, 6 in., mid-blue, early flowering; ‘Fairy Pink’, 6 in., pale pink. There are also white varieties. A. mexicanum has soft lavender-blue flowers on 18 in. stems.
Agrostemma (corn cockle) H.A., 1 ½-2 ft. Magenta-red single flowers are borne on slender stems freely throughout the summer. A more decorative variety Milas’ has large rosy-lilac flowers with conspicuous dark lines along each petal. The long, stiff stems make it useful as a cut flower as well as for the border. Seed may be sown in the open ground in the fall or in the spring for later flowering.
Alonsoa (mask flower) H.H.A., 1-1 ½ ft. These South American plants thrive in rich soil and in a sunny position. The showiest is A. warscewiczii, with bright scarlet flowers. There is also a dwarf form known as compacta’, admirable as a pot plant for a cool greenhouse, where it is perennial. Sow in February or March under glass, at a temperature of 6o°F ( 6°C), and plant out in May for a summer display.
Althaea (hollyhock) H.B., 4-5 ft. Easily raised from seed, the hollyhock may prove perennial but is not long-lived. Sow the seed in the open ground in May or June and transplant the seedlings to grow on, before putting them in their flowering sites in the fall or early spring to flower in July and August. There are single and double varieties in shades of crimson, pink, yellow, and white. There is also an annual form that should be sown outside in April to flower from July onwards.
Alyssum (sweet alyssum) H.A., 4 in. A popular plant for edging, A. maritimum grows well in paving and window boxes. It flowers freely throughout the summer and early fall and is easily raised from seed sown where it is to flower. Or seed may be sown under glass and the seedlings planted out about mid-May when the danger of frost should be passed. The little heads of the flower are sweetly fragrant. Recommended varieties include ‘Carpet of Snow’, white flowers; `Rosie 0′ Day’, deep rose-pink; ‘Royal Carpet’, violet-purple; ‘Violet Queen’, bright violet-purple.
Amaranthus (love-lies-bleeding) H.A., 3 ft. The long pendent tassels of crimson flowers are a curious sight from July to September. A. caudatus Viridis’ has long greenish-yellow tassels. Sow in the open ground in April in well-drained soil and in a sunny position. It requires plenty of moisture during the growing season. In exposed districts it is best treated as a half-hardy plant. People either like it or it gives them the creeps.
Anagallis (pimpernel) H.H.A., 6-12 in. Seed of A. linifolia sown in the open in late May in well-drained soil on a rock garden or warm border will provide brilliantly colored flowers from July to September. Mixed packets will provide shades of scarlet and blue, or separate colors are available.
Antirrhinum (snapdragon) H.H.A., 9 in.-3 ft. These long-flowering plants are usually treated as annuals although in mild districts they are short-lived perennials. For bedding purposes, the seed is sown in flats or pots in a warm greenhouse in February or March. Sturdy plants should be ready for planting out in a sunny bed by mid-May. Seed may be sown in the open ground in April or May for flowering in late summer, but these cannot be compared with plants raised under glass. The range of color includes crimson, pink, orange-scarlet, yellow and white, and many subtle variations. The dwarf varieties are admirable for the front of a border or for window boxes and the taller varieties are useful for cut flowers. There is also a good selection of rust-resistant hybrids, which are advised where this disease is prevalent.
Arctotis H.H.A., 1-2 ft. These South African plants with daisy-like flowers require well-drained soil and full sun. They are perennial in their native conditions but are easily raised from seed sown under glass in March at a temperature of 65°F (I 8°C). Harden off the seedlings before planting out in mid-May. The silvery-white flowers of A. grandis, 2 ft., have a mauve center and a golden band. Young plants should be pinched back when about 6 in. high to encourage bushy growth.
Asperula (woodruff) H.A., 1 ½ ft. A useful little plant for edging or for filling a gap at the front of a border. A native of Syria, A. orientalis is an easily grown plant producing fragrant, lavender-blue flowers from July onwards. It is of branching habit and is useful for miniature floral arrangements. It enjoys a moist soil and partial shade and should be sown in May where it is to flower.
Bellis (double English daisy) Fix., 6 in. Bellis perennis Monstrosa Flore Pleno’ is a hardy perennial but is usually raised from seed sown in the open ground in early summer and transplanted to flowering positions in the fall. In colder areas, plants should be planted in protected cold frames in the fall and transferred to the open ground in spring. The button-like flowers are in shades of crimson to rose and white and are effective among other spring bedding plants and tulips.
Brachycome (Swan River daisy) H.H.A., 9-12 in. In sheltered gardens B. iberidifolia a little Australian plant may be treated as a hardy annual, but it is usually sown under glass in March and planted out in May. Easily grown in a dry, sunny position, it flowers throughout the summer until the fall frosts. The star-like flowers are blue or white with a dark disk. As a pot plant it will flower for weeks in a cool greenhouse.
Calandrinia (rock purslane) H.H.A., 6 in. C. umbellata is a sun-loving plant from Peru which thrives on a rock garden ledge or on the top of a drywall. The brilliant magenta-crimson flowers are borne in clusters from July to September but do not open in dull weather. Sow the seed in April and May and thin the seedlings to 6 in. apart.
Calceolaria H.H.A., 1- 1 ½ ft. The dust-like seed of the pale yellow C. scabiosaefolia is sown under glass in early spring and after hardening off the young plants are put out when the danger of frost is over. In a sunny position or in the dappled shade they flower from July to September.
Calendula (pot or garden marigold) H.A., 1 ½-2 ft. These showy plants derived from C. officinalis are among the hardiest and easiest to grow in almost any soil and in full sun. They flower continuously throughout the summer and the fall. Particularly in light soil, they seed themselves happily but modern varieties tend to deteriorate quickly when grown in this way. Sow in spring or the fall in milder areas where they are to flower. Young seedlings may be transplanted with success. There are numerous named varieties, many of American origin (F1 hybrids), where they are known as the friendship flower. To get the best results to purchase fresh seed each year. Good varieties include: ‘First Lady’, bright yellow, compact; ‘Flame Beauty’, deep orange; ‘Golden Beauty’, gold; ‘Lemon Beauty’, lemon-yellow; `Radio’, bright orange, ball-shaped flowers with quilled petals.
Callistephus (China aster) H.H.A., 1-2½ ft. The diverse and colorful modern asters have been developed from C. chinenis but some seedsmen find they are better known as asters -not to be confused with the perennial Michaelmas daisies. Seed should be sown in a cool greenhouse in March or April, or in warmer areas in the open ground in early May. There are both double and single flowers and the color range is all-embracing. Seedlings transplant quite readily when small. Grown en masse they make a splendid show in late summer and early fall. The short-growing varieties make bushy, decorative plants in window boxes. ‘Ostrich Plume’, and ‘Princess’, both 2 ft., are admirable for cutting.
Campanula (Canterbury bell) H.B., 2½-3 ft. An old favorite among gardeners, C. medium in shades of deep blue, lavender, deep pink and white is admirable in a mixed border in good soil and a sunny position. The cup and saucer varieties with large bell-like flowers and a saucer, or calyx, of the same color, are among the most popular. Sow the seed in the open in May or June, covering it very lightly with fine soil, and plant out in the flowering position in early fall. They will flower the following June to August. Where winters are severe the plants should be transferred to frost-proof frames until the spring.
Celosia (cockscomb) H.H.A., 2 ft. The feathered forms of C. argentea cristata bear brilliant pyramidal plumes from July to September. The colors include shades of crimson, scarlet, orange, and yellow and are seen to best effect with green foliage plants. Sow seed in a warm greenhouse in March, pot the seedlings individually, and plant out in the open when the danger of frost is past. They thrive in well-drained, light soil, and in full sun. Seeds may also be sown outside in spring where the plants are to flower. They also make decorative pot plants in a greenhouse for summer display.
Centaurea (cornflower, sweet sultan) H.A., 1-3 ft. The bright blue flowers of the cornflower, C. cyanus, are borne on tall stems and there are also pale blue, lilac, pink and white varieties, as well as dwarf varieties not exceeding i ft. in height. All are easily raised from seed sown from March to May, or in September in warmer areas, in a sunny position and in reasonably well-drained soil. The taller varieties are excellent for cutting. C. moschata (the sweet sultan) H.A., r z ft. is another popular annual with fragrant, fluffy heads of flower larger than those of cornflower, pale lilac in color. There are giant varieties in shades of mauve, purple, rose, yellow and white. The flowers are most useful for cutting and will last many days in water if cut young. Sow as for cornflower. Both do well on soil containing lime.
Cheiranthus (wallflower) H.B., 15 in. C. x allionii, is the Siberian wallflower with bright orange flowers in April and May. ‘Golden Bedder’ is a more mellow golden-yellow variety. The common wallflower, C. cheiri, II- ft. is perennial in milder parts of the country, but both these wallflowers are best treated as a biennial and sown in an open seed bed in May, or mid-June for the Siberian wallflower, and transplanted to flowering positions in October. Plants should be over-wintered in frost-proof frames where the winters are colder. The fragrance of wallflowers on a warm sunny day is glorious and they associate happily with tulips, forget-me-nots and polyanthus. The range of color is splendid-blood red, scarlet, purple, pink, yellow, ivory white.
Chrysanthemum H.A., 1-3 ft. C. carinatum (tricolor chrysanthemum), 1 ½-2 ft. C. coronarium (crown daisy) 2-3 ft. C. segetum (corn chrysanthemum) 1 ½ ft. There are many varieties of annual chrysanthemums, single and double. All have daisy-like flowers on good stems and often have rings or zones of color on white or cream petals. Among the best hardy annuals for summer flowering, they make excellent cut flowers. Seed should be sown in April in the open in a sunny position where they are to flower or in September for an early display the next year in milder areas. They do not transplant readily, so it is a waste of time to plant out thinnings. They are not fussy about soil provided it is not excessively wet.
Clarkia H.A. 2 ft. Double-flowered C. el egans hybrids are deservedly popular; their slender spikes bear numerous flower heads in shades of salmon-pink, carmine, rosy-purple and white. They are also most decorative as cut flowers. Sow in the open where they are to flower in March and April, or, in milder parts of the country in September to flower the following May and June. Clarkia does best in a light soil and will not tolerate heavy, wet soil. It is wise to support young plants with light twigs as they are liable to be broken off at ground level in a summer gale. For a spring display in a cold greenhouse sow the seed under glass in the fall.
Cleome (spider flower) H.H.A., 3-4 ft. The large, airy flower trusses are an attractive pinky-mauve and borne erect on rigid, thorny stems from July to September. The plants are most effective when grown in bold clumps in the border. Sow the seed in March in a warm greenhouse and plant out in May in rich, well-drained soil. They can also be sown directly outside where they are to flower. These fast-growing plants require ample moisture. ‘Pink Queen’ is an attractive apple-blossom pink; there is also a pure white variety.
Cobaea (cup and saucer plant) H.H.A., 10-20 ft. A vigorous Mexican twiner C. scandens bears large Canterbury bell-like flowers from July onwards on a warm wall. The flowers open green, becoming violet-purple. In a cool greenhouse it is perennial but requires ample space to spread. There is also a white variety. Soak the large seeds in water for a few hours before sowing and place them on their sides in the soil, not flat. Sow under glass in March and pot on, planting out in early June. Where the weather is warmer seeds may be sown directly outside.
Coleus H.H.P., 3 ft. These are ornamental foliage plants with attractive leaves in shades of green, copper, red and apricot, making them conspicuous for greenhouse or room decoration. They may also be planted outdoors in a sunny border as summer bedding plants. Sow seed of C. blumei or named hybrids in February under glass in a temperature of 75°F (24°C) and grow on without a check to obtain strong, showy plants. Particularly striking varieties may be perpetuated by taking cuttings, 3 in. long, of nonflowering shoots in August or March.
Collinsia H.A., 1 ft. The Pagoda collinsia is an attractive plant with white upper lip and lilac lower lip, ‘Salmon Beauty’ is a free-flowering delicate salmon-rose. It is a useful plant for partial shade, or for a woodland garden. Sow in the open ground in March or April, or in milder areas in September.
Convolvulus H.A., 12-15 in. C. tricolor (syn. C. minor) is a bushy plant and is not to be confused with the climbing convolvulus. It has large, funnel-shaped deep blue, yellow and white flowers throughout the summer and is easily grown in poor soil and in full sun. Sow in March or April where it is to flower.
Coreopsis (tickseed) H.A., 1-2 ½ ft. Sometimes listed erroneously in catalogs as calliopsis, this is easily grown even in poor soil. Plants bear large, broad-petalled flowers on slender stems from July to September, in shades of yellow, brown and crimson with pleasing markings in contrasting colors. Coreopsis are readily raised from seed sown in the open in a sunny position in April, or under glass in March for earlier flowering.
Cosmos (cosmea) H.H.A., 2-3 ft. This is a most decorative plant with fern-like foliage and large, single or semi-double, daisy-form flowers on slender but wiry stems which make it useful for cutting from July to October. The color range includes orange, yellow, deep rose to brilliant vermilion, red and white. Sow the seed under glass in February and March in a temperature of 60°F (16°C). Prick out the seedlings and plant out in May in light, well-drained soil and in full sun.
Cynoglossum (hound’s tongue) H.H.A., I4 ft. Although strictly biennial, C. amabile is usually grown as an annual, either sown under glass in March and planted out in May, or sown in the open in April for flowering in late summer. The fine seed should be sown thinly. The blue-green downy foliage and turquoise-blue drooping flowers, like large forget-me-nots, are charming. Plant in a moderately rich, well-drained soil and sun or dappled shade.
Dahlia H.H.A., 1 ½-2 ft. Bedding varieties of dahlias are often treated as annuals as they are readily raised from seed. Sow the seed thinly in flats in February and March. In a warm greenhouse it should germinate within ten days. When they are large enough prick out the seedlings or pot them individually. Plant out in mid-May in a sunny position and in a fertile soil. Dahlias require ample moisture during the growing season. Any outstanding plants should be lifted in the fall after the first frost, and after the tubers have been washed and dried they should be stored in a frost-free place for the winter. They may be planted out the following spring and will start to flower in July. Or they can be put in a warm greenhouse in April to produce cuttings.
Delphinium (larkspur) H.A., 1 ½-3 ft. Seed of annual delphiniums sown in March or April will produce flowering plants by about mid-July. Seedlings do not transplant well, therefore sow where the plants are to flower. For earlier flowering sow in the open in the fall. The color range includes shades of pink, lavender, mauve, rosy-scarlet and white and there are dwarf varieties (rift.). The 3 ft. tall kinds with branching stock-flowered spikes are admirable for cutting.
Dianthus (pinks) H.H.A., 9-18 in. Seed of the annual varieties of carnations and pinks, such as Chabaud carnations (D. caryophyllus) and the Japanese pink (D. chinensis `Heddewigii) and others should be sown thinly in pots and lightly covered with sifted soil. Do this in February or March and place the pots in a warm greenhouse where germination should be evident in a week or ten days. Prick out the seedlings into boxes when they are large enough to handle and harden off before planting out in May in well-drained soil and a sunny position. A great many varieties of dianthus will be found listed in seed catalogs, including D. barbatus, the sweet William, H.B., 6-18 in., obtainable in a glorious color range. Sow in May or June; when 3 in. high transplant to nursery rows then to their flowering positions in October. Where winters are severe move the plants to cold frames and plant out in spring.
Digitalis (foxglove) H.B., 4-5 ft. The common foxglove(D. purpurea) makes a delightful picture in a woodland setting in partial shade -in cooler parts of the country. The color range includes deep pink, purple, cream and white. There are several excellent strains; ‘Excelsior Hybrids’, with flowers carried horizontally all round the stem, revealing the beautiful markings within the florets and ‘The Shirley’, are of outstanding beauty. Sow seed in the open ground from May to July and move to nursery rows when large enough to handle. Move plants to their flowering positions in the fall.
Dimorphotheca (star of the veldt) H.H.A.,1 ½ ft. D. aurantiaca, a South African plant revels in a sunny position where it produces a succession of large, showy daisy-like flowers. In dull weather the flowers remain closed. It thrives in a light soil. Sow outside where plants are to flower in spring. In colder districts sow under glass in March and plant out in May. Colors include salmon, apricot, buff, orange with greenish-black center and the large ‘Glistening White’ of spreading habit 6-9 in. high.
Eccremocarpus (Chilean glory flower) H.H.A., 8-10 ft. E. scaber is a fast-growing, deciduous, climbing plant. In mild districts it is perennial and will seed itself happily. Sow under glass in March and plant out against a warm, sunny wall or fence when all risk of frost is past. The clusters of orange-scarlet, yellow-tipped tubular flowers are freely produced throughout the summer and fall.
Echium (viper’s bugloss) H.A., 1 ½ ft. Compact little plants for the front ofa border, echium hybrids bear many bell-like flowers in shades of blue, lavender, pink and white. They do well in poor, dry soil and in a sunny position. The cheerful heads of flowers withstand wind and rain remarkably well. ‘Blue Bedder’, bright blue, flowers from July to September and there are also good dwarf mixed hybrids.
Eschscholzia (Californian poppy) H.A., 1 – 1 1/2ft. These gay little poppies are easily raised from seed; in fact they seed themselves happily without being a nuisance. There are many varieties of E. californica, single, semi-double and double, in shades of yellow, orange, copper, carmine and ivory. For a hot, sunny bed there are few annuals of equal merit.
Felicia (kingfisher daisy) H.H.A., 4-6 in. Almost creeping in habit, F. bergeriana, is decorative on the rock garden or the front of a sunny border in light soil. Sow under glass in March and plant out in the open in early May, or outside where they are to flower. A profusion of small intense blue flowers is produced from June onwards. In dull weather the flowers open only partially to reveal the yellow center.
Gaillardia (blanket flower) H.H.A., 1 ½ ft. Perhaps not so well known as the perennial gaillardia, the annual G. pukhella has gay crimson-purple flowers tipped with yellow from July to October. The stiff, wiry stems make them useful for cutting. ‘Indian Chief’ is a striking copper-scarlet. Sow under glass in gentle heat in March, or in the open ground in April where plants are to flower. Choose a sunny position and well-drained soil.
Gazania (treasure flower) H.H.A., 6-9 in. These sun-loving, broad-petalled, daisies from South Africa are popular in dry areas. They are easily raised from seed sown under glass in a moderate temperature in March. Seedlings should be planted out in mid-May in full sun and a light soil. The modern hybrids are in shades of yellow, orange, brown, pink and ruby. The markings and zones of contrasting colors in the center of the flowers add considerably to their beauty.
Gilia H.A., 1 ½ ft. The blue, pincushion-like flowers and fern-like foliage of G. capitata are a delight from June to September. The dainty heads of G. tricolor (bird’s eye) are in shades of lavender, pink and white with gold throat. G. hybrida (Leptosiphon) do not exceed 6 in. in height and are decorative on the rock garden or between flagstones in a path. The small, star-like flowers are in a wide color range. Sow in spring in light, well-drained soil and a sunny position where the plants are to flower.
Godetia H.A., 1 ½-2½– ft. Gay plants with big, colored cups, these are among the most popular of hardy annuals where summers are not too hot. There are dwarf and tall varieties, double and single, in shades of pink, mauve, salmon and white. The tall kinds make graceful cut flowers. Sow in March or April where they are to flower as seedlings do not transplant readily. They like a sunny position and a light soil.
Gypsophila (baby’s breath) H.A., 1 ½ft. The annual varieties are fast growing and when sown in the open in April will flower from June onwards. To ensure a continuity of flower sow at intervals of two or three weeks. Seed may also be sown in the fall for spring flowering in milder districts. G. elegans produces slender stems bearing dainty white flowers and Rosea’ has pink flowers. They • thrive in any good garden soil, preferably chalky. The flowers are admirable when used in arrangements with sweet peas, or to mask the stiffness of gladioli.
Helianthus (sunflower) H.A., 3-7 ft., or more. The giant sunflowers are useful for providing a quick screen and the seeds in the plate-like golden-yellow heads are a great attraction to birds in the fall, but there are other sunflowers of greater garden merit and of more reasonable height. Seed should be sown in the open in spring or in flats under glass and seedlings planted out in mid-May. They like plenty of sun and are not fussy about soil. Mammoth Russian is the largest of all with huge single yellow blooms, Italian white with dark centers and primrose petals.
Helichrysum (everlasting flower) H.H.A., 1 ½-3 ft. The Australian helichrysums are the best known of the so-called everlastings. They are decorative in the garden in full sun and in a light soil and when cut and dried they are welcome for winter arrangements. The double form Monstrosum’ of H. bracteatum has a popular range of color—crimson, rose, silvery-pink, bronze and white. There are similar colors in dwarf, compact varieties which make bushy plants for the front of the border.
Helipterum H.A., 1-4 ft. These Australian everlastings’ are easily raised from seed sown in April where they are to flower. They do best in poor, well-drained soil and in full sun. The neat globular pink flowers are pleasing and there are also double pink and double white varieties.
Heliotropium (cherry pie, heliotrope) H.H.P., 15-24 in. These fragrant evergreen plants are really greenhouse perennials but hybrid varieties may be treated as half-hardy annuals. When sown in February in pots without a check, they can be planted out towards the end of May and will flower in the open from July onwards. The colors range from dark violet to lavender and white. `Marine’ is a splendid violet-purple ; `Marguerite’ is dark blue with a white eye.
Iberis (candytuft) H.A., 6-15 in. I. amara, the rocket or giant-flowered candytuft, and I. umbellate, the common candytuft are most effective when sown in bold masses, but this does not mean sowing thickly. Sow in the open ground in September in milder areas for early flowering the following summer, or in March or April for flowering the same summer. Candytufts do best in moist, rich soil. The dwarf varieties are useful for edging and are obtainable in shades of lilac, rose and white.
Impatiens (balsam) H.H.A., 1-2 ft. The original species (I. balsamina) from which the camellia-flowered and other hybrids have been raised comes from India, therefore do not attempt to plant out while there is still a danger of late frost. Sow the seed in March in a warm greenhouse, or outside where the climate is milder. The dwarf and double varieties make attractive pot plants. The color range includes pink, salmon, scarlet and white.
Ipomoea (morning glory) H.H.A., 8 ft. or more. This free-flowering twiner is usually cataloged as I. rubrocaerulea, although the correct botanical name is I. tricolor; to many people it is convolvulus. Call it what you will the large sky-blue trumpets, 4 in. across, are a magnificent sight from July to September. Germination can be erratic, but it helps if the hard seed cover is carefully chipped with a sharp knife. It is worth taking a little trouble with this spectacular plant. Sow the seeds singly in small pots in a warm greenhouse in March and plant out in a warm sheltered place and in well-drained soil in late May, or outside in the spot where the plants are to flower.
Kentranthus (often spelt centranthus) (valerian) H.A., 1 – 1 1/2 ft. K. macrosiphon is easily raised from seed sown where it is to flower in a dry sunny position in spring. Blooms are produced from June to August. The gray-blue leaves and bright rose-pink, tubular flowers make this a showy plant.
Kochia (summer cypress, fire-bush) H.H.A., 3 ft. This neat, fast-growing foliage plant is burdened with the name K. scoparia tricophila. The finely-cut light green leaves turn coppery-red in the fall, hence the name fire-bush. Sow the seeds singly in small pots, or three seeds in a 31 in. pot under glass in April, later thinning to one plant. Plant out in the open in late May. The little seedlings should be watered carefully in the early stages as they are likely to damp off.
Lathyrus (sweet pea) H.A., 1-8 ft. These fast-growing plants, derived from L. od oratus, make deep roots and therefore require a deeply dug, fertile, sunny site. They do not like excessive heat and grow better in cooler parts of the country. In milder areas the best results can be obtained by sowing the seed in pots or flats in the fall. To obtain the best results sow the seed in pots or flats in the fall and over-winter them in a cold frame (beware of mice). Plant them out in the open in mid-March or early April. They should start to flower in June and, provided fading flowers are removed, will continue in flower for a couple of months or so. Seed can also be sown in the open ground as soon as the weather is suitable in spring. When planting out space the seedlings r ft. apart in the row and not less than r ft. between the rows. It is usual to have double rows growing up brushwood stakes, or they can be grown up tripods, or on netting firmly supported by strong metal posts, which may be used year after year. Seed catalogs list many fine modern hybrids in a diversity of color and height, including ‘Bijou’ (1 ft.), `Knee-hi’ (3-4 ft.) and the early-flowering `Galaxy’ strain, tall, and often producing eight flowers to each long stem. See also Favorite Garden Flowers.
Lavatera (mallow) H.A., 3-4 ft. Easily grown, the annual mallow, L. trimestris, has hollyhock-like flowers throughout the summer. Sow the seed sparsely, in March and April, where it is to flower, in a sunny position. ‘Loveliness’ is the best bright carmine-rose and there is also a pure white variety. Allow these plants adequate space for under good cultivation they may reach a height of 4 ft. and make a bush 3 ft. wide. Limnanthes (meadow-foam) H.A., 6 in. Sow the seed of L. douglasii in an open sunny position in September, where it is to flower the following spring in mild localities, or in March to mid-May for later flowering. This cheerful little plant of spreading habit has shiny green leaves and bright yellow, fragrant, flowers, white at the tips, much loved by bees.
Linaria (toadflax) H.A., q in. Sow the seed of L. maroccana thinly in the open ground in March or April to obtain a display of snapdragon-like flowers from June to September. `Fairy Bouquet’ is of compact habit in shades of pink, yellow, lavender and salmon, with large flowers that last well when cut. Linum (flax) H.A., 15 in. Sown in bold clumps in the open in a sunny position in spring, the scarlet flax, L. grandiflorum ‘Rub-rum’, is a most effective summer-flowering annual. The common flax, L. usitatissimum, with pale blue flowers on slender stems is also delightful.
Lobelia H.H.A., 4-6 in. also trailing varieties. Seed of L. erinus and its varieties, is very small and it is easy to sow it too thickly, which means that it will damp off. Sow in pots containing a sandy compost, only lightly covering the seed with sifted soil. This should be done in February or early March in a warm greenhouse. Prick out the seedlings about a month later; these should become bushy plants ready to plant out towards the end of May. The trailing varieties are useful for window-boxes and hanging baskets but require ample and regular watering. Varieties are available in shades of blue; ‘Rosamond’ is deep carmine-red with a white eye, and there is a pure white variety.
Matthiola (night-scented stock) H.A., r ft. Sow seeds of M. bicornis in March or April where plants are to flower during the summer. The lilac-mauve flowers open in the evening and the fragrance on a warm summer night is delightful. Sown with candytuft there will be color by day and scent by night. M. incana (ten-week stocks) H.H.A., r ft. Sow seed thinly under glass in March and prick out the seedlings when large enough to handle. Give the plants plenty of light and air and plant out r ft. apart where they are to flower when they have made bushy growth. The color range is all embracing. In milder areas seed may be sown in borders where the plants are to flower. M. incana (East Lothian or intermediate stocks) H.H.A., fl ft. Sow under glass in February or early March, otherwise treat as for ten-week stocks. East Lothian stocks are vigoros, branching plants flowering in late summer and fall. In milder parts of the country the East Lothians can be grown as biennials but are usually treated as half-hardy annuals. They are available in crimson, scarlet, rose, lavender, white, or in packets of mixed colors. M. incana cannot be recommended for areas where the summers are warm and humid.
Mentzelia H.A., 2 ft. M. lindleyi may still be found in some seed catalogs listed as Bartonia aurea. Sown in the open ground in March or April, in a sunny position, this easily-grown plant will flower from June onwards. The large, single golden flowers have an attractive mass of golden stamens. Mesembryanthemum (Fig marigold) H.H.A., 6 in. Of South African origin, this annual, almost always sold under the name mesembryanthemum, but correctly known as Dorotheanthus bellidifiorus, requires the maximum sun and a rather dry soil. Of spreading habit it is most decorative trailing over a dry wall or growing in crazy paving. Sow under glass in March or April and plant out in May. Seed may also be sown directly outdoors where the plants are to flower. The star-like flowers are in a wide range of brilliant colors.
Mimulus (monkey flower) H.H.A., 6 in.-2 ft. Many mimulus are treated as half-hardy annuals although they may prove to be short-lived perennials. By sowing the seed under glass in March these quick-growing, moisture-loving plants will flower in the open in June and July. Seed sown in the open in partial shade in April will provide a later batch of color. The seeds are very tiny and should only be lightly covered with sifted soil. The large trumpet-shaped flowers are in shades of red and yellow with attractive markings and blotches.
Moluccella (bells of Ireland) H.H.A., 2 ft. Germination of seed of M. laevis is unpredictable; sown under glass in March or April in a temperature of 65°F (18°C) germination may be satisfactory, and on other occasions it may germinate in the open in early May, provided the soil is light and warm. The little white flowers are insignificant; it is the large pale green, white-netted calyces that are so unusual and a delight to flower arrangers. The flowers may be dried for use in winter.
Myosotis (forget-me-not) H.B., 6-12 in. These are easily raised from seed sown in the open ground in June. Transplant the seedlings when they are large enough to handle into the open ground or cold frames and plant them out in the fall where they are to flower, or plant them out in the spring. They are admirable when planted with tulips, wallflowers or polyanthus. They will grow in sun or partial shade and seed themselves happily. There are named varieties in several shades of blue and carmine-pink, and also white.
Nemesia H.H.A., 8-12 in. Free-flowering little plants in a wide color range, the varieties of N. strumosa are among the brightest of the bedding plants. Sow the seed in mid-March in a cool greenhouse and grow them steadily without a check. Prick out the seedlings into flats and plant out in late May or early June. Be sure that the soil does not dry at any time. They may also be sown directly in their flowering positions when the danger of frost is over. For winter flowering under glass as pot plants sow the seed in August.
Nemophila (baby blue eyes) H.A., 6-8 in. N. menziesii is a useful spreading plant for moist conditions, in sun or partial shade. The feathery light green leaves and sky-blue flowers with a white eye make a cheerful picture for the front of a border or on a rock garden. Sow in the open in March or April, or, in warmer areas, in the fall. There is also a white-flowered form.
Nicotiana (tobacco plant) H.H.A., I4-21 ft. Fragrance is one of the chief attractions when the flowers usually open in the evening, although if grown in partial shade they often remain open all day. ‘Sensation’ is a strain with flowers of mixed colors that do remain open in daylight. ‘Lime Green’ has unusual greenish-yellow flowers, popular for floral arrangements. Sow under glass in a moderate temperature in March. Plant out, when the risk of frost is past, in rich moist soil which has been deeply dug. They flower from July to September. In milder parts of the country seeds may be sown outdoors as soon as the soil is suitable in spring.
Nierembergia H.H.A., 9 in. Although strictly a perennial, N. caerulea, from the Argentine, is usually treated as an annual and sown under glass in February or early March and planted out towards the end of May. The large, cup-shaped, lavender-blue flowers with an attractive yellow throat are freely produced from July to September. ‘Purple Robe’ is a selected form with deep violet-purple flowers, with golden anthers.
Nigella (love-in-a-mist) H.A., 1 ½ ft. N. damascena is a favorite among hardy annuals and is easily grown. Sow in the open in September in a well-drained soil and a sunny position for flowering from May onwards. Seed sown in March or April will provide a long season of flower. Seedlings do not transplant readily, therefore sow where it is to flower. ‘Miss Jekyll’, sky-blue with dainty feathery foliage is a fine variety; ‘Persian Jewels’ is a pleasing mixture of pink, rosy-red, purple and mauve shades, also white.
Omphalodes (Venus’s navelwort) H.A., 91 ½ in. Resembling a forget-me-not, 0. linifolia, bears masses of pure white flowers and gray-green leaves on slender stems from June to August. Sow in spring or early fall in a light, well-drained soil where the plants are to flower. It is a decorative plant for the front of a border or on a rock garden.
Papaver (poppy) H.A., I1-2-1 ft. Easily raised from seed, the diverse annual poppies should be sown in August—September or March, April and May where they are to flower. Shirley poppies, derived from P rhoeas, may also be sown in September to flower from May onwards. From the opium poppy, P. somniferum, have been raised many varieties, including double paeony-flowered and double carnation-flowered in many different colors. ‘Pink Beauty’ is a handsome double flower that shows up well against its gray foliage.
Penstemon (beard tongue) H.H.A., 12 ft. Most penstemons are perennial but there is a hybrid race which is treated as an annual. In mild districts and in a well-drained soil they may survive the winter and start to flower earlier the following year. The elegant tubular flowers are borne on erect stems from July to September in mixed colors; pink, crimson, scarlet, mauve, white. Sow the seed under glass in March and plant out in a sunny place in May.
Petunia H.H.A., 9-15 in. Modern hybrid petunias are available in many different types ; large-flowered singles and doubles, compact bedding varieties, pendulous forms suitable for hanging baskets or window boxes, bicolors, self-colors, some with fringed and ruffled flowers. They are sun-loving plants, although some of the new varieties are colorful even in a poor summer. The vigorous F1 hybrids with large trumpet-shaped flowers of uniform color are outstanding. Sow the seed under glass in March and grow the seedlings on steadily without a check. Prick out in flats when large enough to handle and grow them on in the greenhouse. Put them in a cold frame to harden off before planting out in late May or early June in a fairly light soil and full sun.
Phacelia (California bluebell) H.A., 9 in.- 2 ft. P. campanularia, 9 in. has large bell-shaped brilliant blue flowers and grayish-green, red-tinted leaves, which make it a most desirable little plant of neat habit. Sow in the spring, or fall where winters are less severe, in a light well-drained soil and a sunny position, where it is to flower from June onwards. P. tanacetifolia, 2 ft. is a hairy plant with crowded spikes of lavender-blue flowers and is often cultivated by bee-keepers.
Phlox H.H.A., 6-12 in. P. drummondii is a popular, free-flowering bedding plant in shades of pink, salmon, crimson, violet and purple, many with a striking white eye; there are also pure white varieties. The compact varieties are about 6 in. high and the `Grandiflora’ hybrids up to r ft. Sow the seed in gentle heat in March and plant out from mid-May onwards in a sunny position, to flower from July until early October. They can also be sown outside where weather conditions are milder. Keep the young plants well watered.
Portulaca (Purslane or sun plant) H.H.A., 6 in. The dwarf, spreading P. grandiflora from Brazil requires a hot, sunny position in light well-drained soil. Sow the seed in May where plants are to flower as seedlings do not transplant readily. Cover the seed lightly with fine soil and keep moist until established. Plants make an effective carpet from July onwards. They are usually offered in mixed colors — double and single—scarlet, deep pink, yellow and white.
Quamoclit H.H.A., 10 ft. Q. lobata is a fast-growing twining plant with bright crimson flowers that change to orange-yellow and fade to cream. Sow the seed in small pots in a heated greenhouse in March or early April and move into larger pots when seedlings are well rooted. Plant out when the danger of frost is past in rich, moist soil. Seed may also be sown outside where the plants are to flower.
Reseda (mignonette) H.A., 9-12 in. This is a plant of great charm and delicious fragrance. Sow the seed in light, well-drained soil, preferably containing lime, in April and May, where the plants are to flower. Germination is improved when the soil is made firm after sowing and the seed is only lightly covered with fine soil. By making two or more sowings a succession of flowers will be ensured. ‘Goliath’ bears large, very fragrant, reddish spikes.
Ricinus (castor oil plant, castor bean) H.H.A., 4-6 ft. A decorative foliage plant, R. cornmunis, has bronze-colored leaves up to 2 ft. across. The flowers are insignificant but the seed pods, covered with soft spines, contain large bean-like seeds from which castor oil is obtained. Sow the seed singly in small pots in March in a greenhouse with a temperature of 6o°F (16°C). Pot on the seedlings and plant out in June. Seed may also be planted outside when the soil is suitable. Plants thrive in rich, moist soil but will probably need staking.
Rudbeckia (coneflower) H.H.A., 2 ft. The gay annual rudbeckias are easily raised from seed sown under glass in March and planted out in May in a sunny position, or sown outside where they are to flower. They are not fussy about soil. Listed in seed catalogs under R. bicolor ‘Golden Flame’ is a golden-yellow with a dark centre and `Kelvedon Star’ is deep yellow with a brown central disk and mahogany zone.
Salpiglossis H.H.A., 2-3 ft. The elegant, trumpet-shaped flowers, many of which are beautifully veined, are in a brilliant range of Color. Sow the seed in a warm greenhouse in February or March. When large enough to handle prick out the seedlings singly into small pots and grow on steadily until they are ready to plant out in early June. They can also be sown outside when the danger of frost is past where they are to flower. They like a rich soil and a warm, sheltered border, and are admirable as pot plants in a cool greenhouse.
Salvia (sage) H.H.A., t-ti- ft. The vivid scarlet S. splendens, the scarlet sage, is a tender perennial usually treated as a half-hardy annual. Seed should be sown under glass in February or March in a temperature of about 68°F (20°C). When seedlings are large enough put them into pots singly and grow them on steadily, hardening them off before planting out in a sunny bed in late May or early June. S. horminum, H.A., i2 ft., should be sown in spring where it is to flower. `Blue Beard’ has attractive blue bracts.
Sanvitalia H.A., 6 in. Of prostrate habit S. procumbens. A Mexican plant, forms a carpet of small yellow flowers with a bold black center. There is also a bright yellow double form. Sow in the open where it is to flower in a sunny position and in a well-drained soil in late April or May. Or it may be sown under glass in March and planted out in May. Sowings can also be made outside in the fall where winters are less severe. Sown in a bold mass it can be most effective.
Scabiosa (sweet scabious) H.A., 11-3 ft. Sown in the open in April or May, also in the fall, the annual S. atropurpurea, or pincushion flower, will make a good show from August onwards. It can be brought into flower much earlier by sowing under glass in March and planting out in May in a sunny border. The taller varieties should be supported with light twigs in good time or they may be damaged by summer gales. They are available in mixed colors and are admirable for cutting.
Schizanthus (butterfly flower) H.H.A., 3 ft. Usually considered as highly decorative plants for the cool greenhouse, schizanthus hybrids may be also grown in the garden in a sunny position, sheltered as much as possible from wind. For this purpose sow the seed under glass in a warm greenhouse in March and plant out towards the end of May. There are several good strains, some with beautiful markings on the petals, in shades of salmon, apricot, pink, yellow, mauve and purple.
Senecio (groundsel) H.H.A., 9-18 in. A refined version of the common groundsel, S. elegans can be quite effective when grown in a bold group. Sow in the open ground in April or May in a sunny position. Seedlings will transplant if necessary. It is usually obtainable in mixed colors- bright rose, lavender, pink, white with yellow center, in both single and double.
Silene (catchfly) H.A., 9-18 in. From southern Europe S. armeria has attractive blue-green foliage and rose-pink clusters of single flowers on erect stems in summer. More widely grown is S. pendula, of compact habit, with double flowers on 6-9 in. stems in shades of salmon-pink, rosy-purple, ruby-red and white. Seeds should be sown outdoors in August; when large enough to handle, the seedlings should be transferred to nursery beds or cold frames, and planted out in spring.
Tagetes (African and French marigolds) H.H.A., 6 in.-3 ft. These are easily raised from seed sown thinly in a cool greenhouse towards the end of March and planted out in a sunny position at the end of May. Seed can also be sown outside in spring. T. erecta is the bold African marigold which makes a branching plant up to 3 ft. in height. There are many modern F1 hybrids in shades of yellow, orange and lemon. These are an improvement on the earlier rather harsh colors. There are also dwarf American hybrids (t ft.). Very different are the petite French marigolds which make compact plants of symmetrical habit from 6-9 in. high. There are single and double varieties in shades of palest yellow, orange, gold and mahogany-red some with dark foliage.
Tithonia H.H.A., 4 ft. A vigorous, branching plant, T. rotundifolia bears large, orange-red, broad-petalled flowers in August and September. Sow the seed in March under glass, pot the seedlings and plant out in a light soil and full sun towards the end of May. Later blooms can be had from seed sown directly outside when the soil has become warm in spring.
Tropaeolum (nasturtium) H.A., 9 in., trailing and climbing. T. majus varieties are easily grown provided simple rules are observed. Do not sow too early as the seedlings may be ruined by a late frost; poor soil is preferable to rich which will only encourage leaf growth to hide the flowers. Late April is time enough to sow where they are to flower. There are single, semi-double and double flowered varieties in shades of glowing scarlet, golden-yellow, cherry-rose, mahogany-red and mixed colors. T. peregrinum, the canary creeper, is an attractive climbing species to to ft. from Peru, bearing fringed golden-yellow flowers from July onwards. This likes a rich soil and should be sown in sun or shade in late April or May.
Ursinia HHA 9-15in Masses of daisy like flowers and graceful foliage make these showy South African plants a welcome addition to the summer display. Sow the seed under glass in March and plant out in mid May in full sun and in a light, well drained soil. Sowing can also be carried out in spring where the plants are to bloom. U. anethoides, 15 in., has large brilliant orange flowers with chestnut-red zone around the centre in July and August. U. pulchra, 9 in., suitable for the rock garden or front of the border, has rich orange flowers with a dark central zone. Several named varieties are obtainable, including ‘Aurora’, with a crimson-red center to the rich orange flowers, and ‘Golden Bedder’.
Venidium (Namaqualand daisy) H.H.A., 2 1/2ft. Another. sun-loving plant from South Africa, V. fastuosum, bears large orange flowers with a purple-black zone and shiny black center from July to September. Sow under glass in March and plant out in mid-May in a good loamy soil. Seed can also be sown directly in the border in May. Hybrids are available in pleasing shades of yellow, straw, orange and cream, their petals attractively blotched at the base with darker colors.
Verbena (vervain) H.H.A., 6-15 in. The hybrid verbenas are easily raised from seed sown in a warm greenhouse in February or March. Germination may be erratic and can be delayed for several weeks. Prick out into flats and after hardening off, plant out in a sunny position in May. The compact varieties are admirable for window boxes or for the front of a border. The 3 in. clusters of flowers are freely borne from June to September. The color range includes scarlet, rose, salmon, deep bule, lavender, some with a white eye, and white.
Viola (pansy, viola) HB 6-9 in. Violas usually have smaller flowers than pansies, often self colored, are of tufted habit and are best treated as hardy biennials. Sow both kinds in flats in a cold frame or outside in well prepared soil in July or August and keep the seedlings moist and shaded. When large enough to handle prick the seedlings out in rows outside or in cold frames. Where winters are less severe the plants may be transferred to their flowering positions in the fall. In colder areas delay moving the plants and protect them with a light covering of salt hay or evergreen branches. Cold frames should have the sash in position during frost. Do not let them dry out at any time. They like a rich moist soil, in sun or partial shade. Sowing can also be done in March or April in the open where they are to flower later the same year. There are numerous special strains, also winter-flowering varieties.
Viscaria H.A., 6-15 in. Annual viscarias, mainly varieties of V.oculata, are easily grown in ordinary garden soil. Seed should be sown in March or April where plants are to flower. They are free-flowering plants, effective en masse at the front of a border, with showy five-petal flowers in pink, scarlet, crimson, blue and white, or as mixed colors. They are also decorative as cool greenhouse pot plants.
Zinnia H.H.A., 9 in.-24 ft. Sow the seed in a warm greenhouse in April. There is nothing to be gained by sowing earlier as seedlings are liable to damp off during a cold spell. Prick out into flats when quite small, or singly into small pots. Harden off carefully in a cold frame before planting out in the full sun and in rich, well-drained soil in early June. Seed may also be sown outside where the plants are to flower as soon as the danger of frost is over. There is a diverse selection from giant flowered and giant dahlia flowered varieties up to 2 ½ high. Varieties to consider Lillipur, Pompon, Thumbelina. The range of color includes scarlet, pink, orange, lavender, yellow and white.
This brilliant orange and scarlet, rarely yellow, flowered annual is worthy of a place in any garden. It is not large, but the dash of orange color it provides is noticeable. It is often admired for combining in bouquets, and is a splendid rockery subject. The flowers are actually like tassels, borne on long stems. The common sort usually grown is catalogued as both Emilia flammea and Cacalia coccinea. The plants grow 18 inches tall, and bloom from June till frost.
GENERAL. This is simple. Sow the seeds in the border early in the Spring and thin the plants so that they stand 4 inches apart.
