Category: Home & Garden

Vines play a special role in the garden, covering vast amounts of space with little investment from us. Most vines are chosen for their climbing ability and used to add vertical interest to a planting or to create a living privacy wall. Some vines are grown on pergolas as a green roof, while others are planted as ground covers.

Unfortunately, many of the vines traditionally used in the landscape can become invasive in natural areas. Invasive vines are particularly troublesome because of their spreading nature. Following are five invasive ornamental vines and native alternatives that can be used to achieve the same ornamental or functional roles.

Replace Japanese honeysuckle with native trumpet honeysuckle

Beloved for its fragrant blooms, Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica and cvs., Zones 5–8) twists and climbs any structure in its path—including other plants. This trait allows Japanese honeysuckle to outcompete natives in natural settings, where it can cover small trees and shrubs, and shade out lower growing vegetation.

A gorgeous alternative to Japanese honeysuckle is the native trumpet or coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens and cvs., Zones 4–9). The red-orange blooms are far prettier than those of their invasive counterpart, which makes up for their lack of fragrance. Flowers hang in clusters and nearly cover the plant in spring, with many cultivated varieties reblooming throughout the season. The yellow-throated blooms are adored by hummingbirds and butterflies. Plants tolerate deer browsing and are semi-evergreen in Zones 8 and above. Trumpet honeysuckle blooms best in full sun but tolerates some shade and can be grown near black walnut trees.

• Mature size: 8 to 15 feet long and 3 to 6 feet wide
• Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; medium moisture; rich, well-drained soils
• Bloom time: Mid to late spring

Replace autumn clematis with purple passionflower

Although it is highly considered invasive in many states, sweet autumn clematis (Clematis paniculata and cvs., syn. Clematis terniflora, Zones 3–8) is still commonly planted as an ornamental vine for its fragrant fall blooms. The vine is invading forest edges and other natural areas along riparian corridors and roadways where the vine smoothers native vegetation. Look for its conspicuous bloom in woodlands in fall.

If you are looking for fall flowers—and summer blooms too—purple passionflower (Passiflora incarnata and cvs., Zones 5–9) will not disappoint. The tropical-looking blooms just don’t quit on this native beauty. Host plant to the Gulf fritillary and other butterfly species, purple passionflower is a popular butterfly garden selection. Stems can be pinched back after the first growing season for a bushier growth habit. Plants are drought tolerant once established. Note that passionflower can spread through the garden by suckers and control may be needed.

• Mature size: 6 to 8 feet tall and 3 to 6 feet wide
• Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; dry to moist, average, well-drained soil
• Bloom time: Midsummer through fall

Replace Chinese and Japanese wisteria with American and Kentucky wisteria

Commonly planted on arbors and pergolas to provide summer shade, Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis and cvs., Zones 5–8) and Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda and cvs., Zones 4–9) are long-lived vines that twine tightly around support structures. This is problematic in forested areas, where vines have escaped cultivation and climb trees for support, causing death by girdling the trees. On the ground, wisteria grows in dense thickets and shades out native plants.

American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens and cvs., Zones 5–9) and Kentucky wisteria (Wisteria frutescens subsp. macrostachya and cvs., Zones 3–9) are better behaved than Asian species and have an equally stunning spring bloom. Chains of fragrant, purple-blue blooms open in midspring, so they are rarely lost to a late spring freeze the way Asian wisteria blooms can be. Plants are slow to establish and will not flower until the second to third season. Wisteria do not tolerate being moved, so plan accordingly. Identify a permanent location, and provide a strong support system.

• Mature size: 15 to 25 feet long, spreading 4 to 8 feet wide
• Conditions: Full sun; slightly acidic, moderately fertile, well-drained soil; average moisture
• Bloom time: Midspring

Replace English ivy with crossvine

Given how readily English ivy (Hedera helix and cvs., Zones 4–11) can cover a stone wall, it comes as no surprise that the plant does the same to trees and shrubs in woodlands. Where it climbs into tree canopies, the foliage blocks sunlight to tree branches, slowly killing the tree. Infested trees are also prone to wind damage due to the heavy canopy. English ivy also swallows low-growing plant materials, from ground covers to shrubs.

With vigorous growth and evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage, crossvine (Bignonia capreolata and cvs., Zones 5–9) can be used to cover walls and other structures much like English ivy. But crossvine has an advantage over ivy: It produces gorgeous flowers. The 2-inch, trumpet-shaped flowers are a dark orange with yellow throats and hang in clusters of two to five blooms. The flowers provide an early nectar source for hummingbirds and butterflies. The foliage turns an attractive red-purple color in winter.

• Mature size: 30 to 50 feet tall and 6 to 9 feet wide
• Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; medium moisture; average, well-drained soil
• Bloom time: Early to midspring

Replace wintercreeper with Virginia creeper

Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei and cvs., Zones 4–9) can grow as a vine, ground cover, or shrub and is used ornamentally as all three, depending on the variety. Escaped plants tend to creep along the ground, smothering herbaceous natives and seedlings, though they can also climb into tree canopies. Plants tolerate a wide range of environmental conditions, from full sun to deep shade, allowing them to creep deep into woodlands from adjacent gardens.

Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia and cvs., Zones 3–9) fills many of the roles of wintercreeper. It is equally rugged, tolerating deer, drought, heavy shade, clay soil, and black walnut trees. Virginia creeper provides erosion control on slopes and can also be used to climb walls, fences, or trellises, often aggressively. Though the flowers are insignificant, the fruits provide food to songbirds. The palmately compound leaves turn rich purple and red hues in fall.

• Mature size: 30 to 50 feet tall spreading 5 to 10 feet
• Conditions: Full sun to full shade; medium moisture; average, well-drained soil

When growing vines, always use caution and do your research before allowing them to grow on buildings. Painted surfaces, wood, and stucco can be damaged by many vines. While stone and brick are not themselves prone to damage, the rootlets and tendrils that vines use to climb can damage window frames, shutters, roof tiles, gutters, and other building materials. They can also squeeze into cracks in mortar. The best strategy is to grow vines on sturdy trellises positioned 4 to 6 inches away from the building surface.

 

—Kim Toscano is a horticulturalist based in Stillwater, Oklahoma. She previously hosted Oklahoma Gardening, a weekly PBS television program produced by the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service.

Photos: Kim Toscano

We gardeners are becoming more aware of our changing world, not just the climate but also the habitat reduction for pollinators. Landscape designers are becoming more aware and responding by adding more pollinating plants to designs. How to integrate more pollinating plants into a mature garden is a bigger challenge. Here is a short list of simple but effective ways to help pollinators survive and be useful in our gardens:

• Provide habitat, nesting places, and host plants.
• Provide flowering shrubs, perennials, and annuals that will attract pollinators, give them nectar and pollen, and provide places to raise their young.
• Watch out for any insecticides or herbicides. Use safe products that will not harm pollinators. Use targeted herbicides, not broadcast herbicides.
• Plant unused corners and spaces with a wildflower pollinator mix.
• Add pollinating flowers to veggie gardens or orchards.
• When something dies in your mature garden, replace it with something that is beneficial to all types of pollinators.
• Plant for 12 months of blooms.

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Get to know your local pollinators first, then the plants they love

Before you start adding plants to attract them, you first you must familiarize yourself with the various types of pollinators. Many of us think of hive bees first, but there are many different types of pollinators that work in our gardens: beetles, flies, butterflies and moths, and native bees. But bats, birds, and even lizards also act as pollinating animals. We’ll focus on the insect pollinators below.

Insect pollinators

Beetles: In the Pacific Northwest region, these pollinate native populations of magnolia (Magnolia spp., Zones 3–9) and tulip tree (Liriodendron spp., Zones 4–9) as well as small flowering cluster flowers like asters (Aster spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), spirea (Spiraea spp. and cvs., Zones 4–8), and goldenrod (Solidago spp. and cvs., Zones 2–9). If you already have these plants, you’ve got a good start on attracting more.

Butterflies and moths: These need host plants for their larvae and nectar plants to feed on. Specific butterflies often need specific types of plants as hosts; if you don’t have these plants already, they can be added to a vegetable garden or little-used corner of the property not cultivated yet. This way, if you’re worried about holes in leaves from hungry caterpillars, those host plants won’t be front and center. Many common butterfly flowers have their nectar hidden deep within the flower and are either borne in clusters or have a lip that serves as a landing pad for the butterfly to perch on. A good example of this is bee balm (Monarda spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9).

Flies: Surprisingly, these are the second most common pollinator in the world. They are often hard to distinguish from bees because their bodies mimic bees as protection from predators. Less picky about types of flowers, they go about their business with great efficiency.

Bees: There’s no denying how important bees are for pollinating much food production, including the edibles we grow in our own gardens. Providing attractive bright annuals can attract them to your garden. Adding cluster-type flowers like sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima, annual) to the edges of beds can be beautiful and useful for pollinators.

 

Be sure there is adequate shelter for your pollinators—especially native bees

There are several types of bees. Most gardeners don’t have bee hives, so learning how to attract bee populations already in existence is a great way to get started. Solitary bees (often native) live in the ground and hollow logs, so ensuring there are some of these scattered about your property (if possible) is a good idea. Social bees, such as bumblebees, live together in a colony that overwinters underground and emerges the following spring to start new colonies. This is critical when it comes to delaying spring cleanup in the garden. Cuckoo bees are the lazy ones who do not build nests or forage for pollen but lay their eggs in the nests of other bees and allow them to raise their young. Although I don’t have any specific tips on attracting these parasitic bees, it’s important to know that they have their role to play in the bee community too. Mason bees are an easy way to start the pollinator process, since these colonies can be purchased by reputable sellers. The nesting material (such as various reed grasses) you provide for your new garden guests can also attract the native bees in your area.

One thing many gardeners don’t think about is nesting places for all of these pollinators. The mature garden provides much in the way of habitat for nesting, overwintering, and food storage. Leaving a pile of debris, especially things with hollow stems, twigs, and dry grasses, is a great way to create that type of habitat. Bees and beetles often use decaying logs to build homes and store food. Pruning out mature shrubs to create more light and air creates habitat for ground-nesting bees who need warm soil to thrive.

Mason bees can be purchased by reputable sellers and are an easy way to jump-start the pollinator population in your yard. Be sure to provide them (and other pollinator friends) with plenty of nesting material so they stay happy and healthy. This is a short clip of mason bees in my garden. Video: Susan Calhoun

 

The key to getting more pollinators is succession of blooms

Once you’ve assessed which pollinators are prevalent in your area, what sort of food sources you have already, and what sheltering materials/habitats you can introduce, it’s time to talk new plants. There are innumerable native plants that are used by our regional pollinators and can be added easily into various locations in a mature garden. Color, shape of flower, and bloom time should vary widely when you it comes to selecting plants. Early-blooming plants are extremely important because food sources are slim at that time of year in the Pacific Northwest. Plants like mahonia (Mahonia spp. and cvs., Zones 2–9) and early spring-blooming bulbs are good options to add and, in the case of bulbs, are easy to sneak into small spaces in an already full bed.

A bit later in the season it can be hard to find blooms that will blend seamlessly into an existing color scheme. Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium, Zones 3–9) can be a bit weedy, but I’ve found that a cultivated variety like ‘Lilac Beauty’ or ‘Fireland’ can blend into a garden politely and the bright colors attract scores of bees and butterflies. Even easier to incorporate is creeping yarrow (Achillea × kellereri, Zones 4–8), which is a low-growing ground cover that can fill in gaps within a mature garden. It is also low enough for beetles to enjoy it. These are just a very few examples of helping our pollinators to hang out in our gardens.

 

 

Read more about pollinators

Tour a Beautiful Eco-friendly Front Yard Garden with a Succession of Blooms

Important Pollinator Host Plants

Pollinators’ Favorite Nectar Plants

 

Additional resources

Xerces Society has wonderful region-specific plant lists to help with knowing what to plant.

 

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Susan Calhoun is the owner of Plantswoman Design in Bainbridge Island, Washington.

My first memories of a vegetable garden are of large sunflowers (Helianthus annuus and cvs., annual) growing in our backyard when I was about five years old and my mom was working diligently to feed our growing family. A healthy and productive garden needs attention. In the midsummer, this involves keeping a watchful eye out to get our plants through the heat, unpredictable rains, and various pests that challenge us in the Midwest. Here are some maintenance tips to add to your summer garden to-do list to keep your edible plants healthy and productive.

Give vegetable plants 1 to 2 inches of water each week

Providing an even amount of soil moisture for vegetable plants is a critical component to their success. The summer can be very hot and dry in the Midwest. Tomatoes and peppers are especially susceptible to problems without adequate water. Blossom end rot is common in both if they do not receive a weekly supply of 1 to 2 inches of water, whether by rain or irrigation. To encourage the plants to establish a deep root structure, a heavy soaking is best (instead of several light waterings). Soil moisture can also be regulated by establishing and maintaining a layer mulch (preferably organic) 2 inches deep or more. This has an added benefit of suppressing weeds. Reapply mulch as necessary to keep the soil covered.

Keep foliage healthy to help minimize insect and disease problems

Insects and diseases have a habit of appearing in the heat of the summer. As plants become stressed by the hot summer environment, they are more susceptible to these problems. Be watchful and observant. Tomatoes, peppers, and other soft-skinned veggies can get sunscald if shaded portions of the fruit are suddenly exposed to sunlight. Keep the foliage healthy to help prevent this from occurring. Selectively prune leaves and stems to allow for good air circulation, and avoid overhead watering; crowded and wet foliage provides the optimum conditions for problems to set in.

Powdery mildew foliage disease typically rears its ugly head in June and July as a result of humid weather and poor air circulation. Copper fungicide is an effective organic control for this if management is deemed necessary. Clean up any diseased foliage debris, and continue to avoid overhead watering. Some varieties of plants are more susceptible than others, so don’t be surprised if powdery mildew appears in an irregular pattern.

Use care when controlling problematic aphids, caterpillars, slugs, and snails

Aphids are a frequent problem for stressed plants. If you notice them early in low numbers, you can remove them from your plants with a strong spray of water from a garden hose. However, if a large infestation is present, controlling aphids with neem oil or an insecticidal soap are options to consider. Just be sure to follow the label as directed, and apply only when the temperature is cool, on a cloudy day or in the evening hours.

Worms and caterpillars can be a challenge for some vegetable plants. Be sure to identify any problematic worm or caterpillar before taking action to control them. You don’t want to harm beneficial insect larvae. If management is needed, Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is an option. It is a common soil-borne bacterium that is a popular organic pesticide toxic only to worms and caterpillars (not harmful to humans or animals). When using this method, be careful to avoid overspray, staying away from the host plants for monarch butterflies and any other endangered species. Even when you are using a natural pest control, thoughtful application is necessary so that beneficial insects are not harmed.

Slugs and snails are a frequent problem for strawberries and other large-leafed plants. Beer traps have a proven record of working to control slugs, as well as diatomaceous earth (DE)—a nontoxic, organic control—and of course you can just pick them off and dispose of them.

Sow additional seeds in July for a fall harvest

As you finish the harvest of your earliest plantings, it is now time to start a second crop for harvest in the fall. July is the prime time to sow the seeds for fall crops of radishes, bush beans, peas, carrots, beets, spring onions, lettuce, bok choy, kale, and cabbage. As the weather cools, you can add a crop of spinach (it’s just a bit too hot to start in July). I recommend keeping a notebook to track the performance of the varieties of vegetables you grow each year, as well as their location in the garden. Rotating your crop locations is important, and we can’t always rely on our memory when spring rolls around again.

Nurture your vegetable garden with homemade compost

If you don’t have a compost bin, now is the perfect time to get one started to create nourishing compost for your vegetable garden. There are several options on how to create compost. The simplest method is to purchase a ready-made compost bin unit, preferably one that is a tumbler, if you have a modest-size garden. An easy turning, dual-chamber unit will provide you with the quickest turnaround from plant debris to compost and take up the least amount of space. Alternatively, you can opt to create a compost pile that requires a bit more muscle to turn by hand with a pitchfork or shovel. Keep your composter or pile working optimally by turning it regularly, at least once a week, regularly adding organic material, and keeping the contents moist.

Midsummer is a busy time for gardening. Picking and enjoying what’s ready to eat, tending what’s to come, and sowing the seeds for the next harvest will keep one more than a little occupied. May you find joy in your vegetable garden, however large or small it may be.

 

—Marti Neely, FAPLD, owns and operates Marti Neely Design and Associates in Omaha, Nebraska.

Are you looking for some easy ways to make exploring nature with children fun?  

This free printable has a whole host of ideas for nature play that will help you keep the kids happy and the costs down.

Whether you’re looking for inspiration on fun days out, want to make a trip to the park more exciting, or just need to stop kids complaining on a walk, you’ll find some great ideas to help you make the most of the nature on your doorstep.

The many benefits of exploring nature with children

There are so many benefits to be had from children exploring nature – and lots of them apply to the adults too!

For starters, nature play is a wonderful way to help children learn about the natural world, and foster a sense of curiosity about a wide range of topics.  Exploring nature with children can cover animals, insects, plants, seasons, weather, geology and the food chain, to name just a few areas.

As well as being good from a learning point of view, exploring nature with children also creates a natural forum to teach kids about respect for nature and our planet.

Spending time in nature can benefit children’s mental health too.  Study after study has shown that being outside in nature can increase happiness levels while also lowering stress and anxiety levels, both in children and adults.

And of course, getting kids playing outdoors and exploring nature also keeps them active, which helps to keep their bodies healthy too.

Finally, exploring nature with children is lots of fun!  The natural world is exciting, fascinating, thought-provoking, awe-inspiring and simply amazing.

Exploring nature with kids can be really low-cost too

Keeping the kids busy and entertained can get very expensive.  But nature play can be lots of fun without breaking the bank. You don’t have to spend a fortune to have a fun day out, and there are lots of brilliant outdoor activities for kids that are either really cheap or completely free.

A whole year’s worth of nature walks and nature games to play outside

If you like the idea of having a one-stop shop for your nature play ideas, take a look at *A Year of Nature Walks and Games.

This bright, engaging book is packed with nature-themed activities, walks and games for children aged 7 years and up.  As well as loads of fun outdoor games for kids and ways to make a walk more interesting, there are science experiments, riddles and nature projects to explore.

There’s an exciting activity for every week of the year, each with clear instructions and colourful photos that grab kids’ attention.  All the activities are either very low-cost or free.

From spring birdwatching walks to summer park games, autumn scavenger hunts and winter walking games, you’ll never be stuck for ideas with this book. You can banish boring walks and always have a cool activity up your sleeve to tempt kids outside.

You might also like to explore nature with children by using the sister book *A Year of Nature Craft and Play.

20 fun ideas for exploring nature with children pdf

Ready to encourage kids to have fun outdoors?  This free printable has 20 simple, budget-friendly kids outdoor activities to inspire you.

Download it for free, then print it or save it on your phone, and you’ve got a handy resource whenever you want to get the kids outside but are struggling for inspiration.

More outdoor fun for kids

Take a look at these articles for even more outdoor play ideas:

Garden fun

Nature play & nature crafts

You can also join our nature crafts and fun facebook group where we share lots of ideas for exploring nature with children.

And finally, bookmark our nature hashtags copy and paste lists for when you share your outdoor fun activities on social media 👍

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Summer is an excellent time for roofing maintenance and replacement, mainly due to the warm climate and predictable weather. It’s also a great opportunity to beat the winter snow. Summer roof maintenance involving cleaning helps save on energy. A clean roof reflects heat, meaning your HVAC system won’t need to overwork, cutting energy costs. Clean roofs also safeguard your health by addressing any fungi and mold signs. They also last longer, preventing early replacement.

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Summer is an excellent time for roofing maintenance and replacement, mainly due to the warm climate and predictable weather. It’s also a great opportunity to beat the winter snow. Summer roof maintenance involving cleaning helps save on energy. A clean roof reflects heat, meaning your HVAC system won’t need to overwork, cutting energy costs. Clean roofs also safeguard your health by addressing any fungi and mold signs. They also last longer, preventing early replacement.

Repairing or replacing the roofing in summer minimizes the risk of weather interruptions and prepares the roof for winter. Summer’s low humidity also makes it a perfect time for roofing maintenance. Here are several tips for summer roofing maintenance.

1. Contact a professional roofing expert

While you may be tempted to DIY your roofing maintenance, hiring a professional roofer is more advantageous. Qualified roofers have the expertise and experience to assess your roof thoroughly, spot potential issues you might overlook, and direct you on improving your roof’s overall function. They also help cut costs by avoiding mishaps and errors that may result in time, money, and energy wastage.

A roofing professional provides quality services, meaning their work endures longer. Professional roofing companies, such as usually provide warranties for their services and materials used during maintenance. This means you won’t incur extra costs if something goes wrong with the roof.

1. Clean the gutters

Springtime might leave your gutters with debris, dirt, leaves, branches, twigs, and more. Cleaning the gutters during summer helps unclog them, eliminating blockages while ensuring free and easy water flow. Sometimes, summer comes with strong winds, thunderstorms, and heavy rains. This can damage Bold North Roofing the gutters if they aren’t cleared out and cleaned. Cleaning your gutters in the summer prepares them for the fall season when trees start shedding off leaves. This prevents the risk of falling leaves from adding more weight to the gutters, which can damage or block them further.

1. Leverage a summer roof inspection

While your roof may seem perfect, it might have minor issues that aren’t easily noticeable. If not corrected on time, these problems may cause significant deterioration, resulting in costly roof replacement or repairs. Roof inspections help catch potential problems early. Roofing inspectors use advanced equipment to identify common roofing issues like leaks, missing or curled shingles, algae, mold, moss, and more. Getting your roof inspected during summer allows you to repair or replace it when the weather is still warm.

1. Get the roof cleaned

Roof cleaning is a vital summer roofing maintenance aspect you can’t afford to overlook. The summer weather is also perfect for this exercise. A dirty roof attracts more heat, meaning if you don’t keep it clean, your AC will work more to cool your home. Summer roof cleaning enhances your home’s energy efficiency, and keeps your household from mold-related health problems like allergies, asthma, and other respiratory issues.

1. Look at the attic’s ventilation

While roof ventilation is essential in all seasons, it’s most important during summer. Poor ventilation may result in high energy bills. Check your ventilation system and get it replaced or repaired as needed.

Endnote

Summer roofing maintenance is crucial for your home’s structural integrity and cost savings. Consider implementing these roofing maintenance tips this summer.

Collaborative post

With summer comes the desire to sit in the garden on a warm day and soak up the sun. It’s also the time of year when you may have friends and family round for a BBQ or an outdoor party.

However, the outside of your property may need a little love before you’re happy to invite people round. Let’s take a look at some easy ways to improve your outdoor space this summer.

Add a new driveway

If you’re thinking about revamping the driveway, then summer is a good time to do it. You will get the best weather at this time of year, plus, it will be easier to lay the surface. Take some time to think about the type of surface you want to use. One option is a tar and chip driveway surface, which is hardwearing and will look clean.

Planning is crucial when laying a new driveway. You need to consider what the drive will be used for and how many vehicles you think will be using it. This will give you a good idea about space and where to place the entrance. You also need to think about adequate drainage and whether you need council permission.

Upgrade the fencing

One easy way to improve your outdoor space is to add new fencing to your garden. This can make the space look nicer, and you can also break up parts of the garden into smaller areas.

If you don’t want to replace your fencing, why not try painting it? This will add a splash of colour and give the fence a vibrant new look. You can also make the colour you choose a theme that runs through the rest of the space.

Enhance your lighting

Sitting outside in the evenings is one of the best things about summer. To make it feel even more special, you can invest in some lights to place around the garden. There are now many types of outdoor lights available in a wide range of styles to suit your home’s decor.

Solar lighting has improved a huge amount over the years, and it can be placed anywhere without the need for wires or plugging the lights in.

You may also want to invest in some security lights to help keep your garden secure and deter any potential intruders. These can include sensor lights and flood lights that will illuminate the entire space.

Repair broken paving and other areas

Along with adding new features, you might need to repair something that you don’t want to remove. If you have existing paving that needs some repairs, there are companies that can come in and replace broken slabs, in addition to cleaning the paving to make it look new again.

The same applies to broken fences and other areas of the garden. Some of these repairs can be done yourself, while more major projects may need a professional. Try to plan out how you want the space to look, so that you have a clear idea in mind before you start. This will help you achieve your goal and ensure everything fits together well.

Add a fire pit

Sometimes it can get a little chilly as the sun goes down. To help with this and add a touch of atmosphere, consider adding a fire pit to your outdoor space. There are lots of options on the market, or you can build one yourself – just remember to be safe around young people. Some fire pits come with a grill to prevent direct touching.

You could go for a standalone fire pit, or one that’s built into a table. The second option is a great way to create a focal point in your seating area.

If you don’t want a fire pit, consider outdoor patio heaters. These are safer and still give out a lot of warmth.

Add a hot tub

If you want to spend lazy afternoons and evenings soaking in the tub, then you could get an outdoor hot tub installed. You can get permanent fixed hot tubs, or the inflatable type. Whichever one you choose, you will be able to relax and even have a pool party.

If you are going to get a fixed tub, then you will need to have it professionally installed into the property’s electricity and plumbing.

There are many ways that you can improve your outdoor space for summer. Some of the options we’ve covered cost more than others, but whatever your budget, make sure you plan the project and partner with reputable companies. That way, you can be sure of a good result which helps you to enjoy summer outdoors.

Rosemary has such an energizing scent and distinct flavour that we find in all kinds of Mediterranean-inspired dishes. If you’re lucky enough to have a rosemary plant in your garden, you’re in for a treat of a constant supply of fresh sprigs. Here’s how to harvest rosemary and the best ways to use it.

Every herb garden needs a beautiful, bushy rosemary plant. Rosemary is one of the most giving herbs, providing plenty of sprigs to add flavour to your cooking, aroma to homemade beauty products, and herbal benefits.

If you have a new rosemary plant in your garden, get ready for tons of rosemary coming your way. Here’s everything you need to know about how to harvest rosemary, store it, and use it in some creative ways.

This post will cover…

When to Harvest Rosemary

As a perennial herb, you can pick rosemary throughout the year. Like most plants, its active growth season is during the spring and summer, so this is when you’ll get the most rosemary. Harvest lots during this time and dry some to use later on, avoiding harvest in the winter as this can damage the plant.

When you pick rosemary, aim to harvest it in the morning. Not only is this when the plant is most hydrated, but it’s when the volatile oils are at their peak. You’ll get the best flavour, aroma, and medicinal properties at this time.

If the rosemary is new, you will want to wait for it to become established before you harvest from it. It’s also good to prune your rosemary regularly to maintain its shape. This is best done after the plant flowers, so you can save those rosemary clippings and use them for your recipes.

How to Harvest Rosemary

When harvesting rosemary, you always want to use sharp, sterile scissors or bypass pruners. If you want some fresh rosemary to use for cooking or something else, you can cut off the top softer tips. Take off the top 2-3 inches to encourage the plant to continue to grow bushy.

If you want long stems to dry or use as skewers, pick rosemary stems at least 8 inches. Take off the entire stem, harvesting as far as the wood base if needed. Just don’t take off too much from the bottom!

Keep in mind when you’re harvesting big batches of rosemary, never trim more than 1/3 of the plant. Any more and you could damage the plant.

How to Store Rosemary

Rosemary can be used fresh or dried and stored in a jar. If you place it in a jar, ensure it has a tight lid. When stored in a jar, the aroma and flavour should hold up for about a year.

If you want the individual leaves rather than the whole stem, I love this colander trick. Pull the stems through the colander, and the leaves will fall off below. This is much easier than pulling them off individually.

How to Dry Rosemary

Rosemary is easy to dry. Leave the leaves on the stem (you can remove them later using the colander trick from above) and gather the stems in bunches.

Use a piece of twine to tie them together and hang them upside down in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. The rosemary should be fully dry after two weeks.

How to Use Rosemary

Rosemary leaves can stay on the stems while cooking as the leaves are very tough in recipes. Then, you can remove the whole stem and leaves afterward while retaining the flavour. They even work well as BBQ skewers!

For cooking, I love to use rosemary in roasted root vegetables and in my rosemary lime finishing salt. Of course, it’s an aromatic cocktail garnish!

Rosemary is an amazing herb for haircare known for stimulating scalp circulation and hair growth. Here are ways to use it in your haircare routine.

I also like to feature rosemary in other crafts and recipes, like my pressed rosemary candles or energizing sugar scrub.

Frequently Asked Questions About Harvesting Rosemary

More Must-Know Information for Growing Herbs

At 9:30pm, June 2, 2023 we had a fire next to our house starting in the 1884 barn. Richard was the only one home who was in the living room at the time and who witnessed the fire first. Miles Jr. and Lisa and Richard’s wife, Morgan, were not at home. Morgan and Lisa arrived at the house a little after 10pm. Miles Jr. was driving back from Albany and arrived at the house at 11:30pm. Racheal arrived 12:30am Saturday morning, Wesley arrived Saturday night, Miles III arrived Sunday afternoon and Anna Marie, Tobin & Aspen arrived from Michigan Sunday night. Praise God that no one was hurt amidst all of this occurring, we are forever grateful.

 

Richard had heard a pop and crackle noise and saw flames coming out the side of the barn through the living room window. 911 was immediately called as he ran outside to look at the fire. Richard ran into the house to get Mack out of his crate and was able to grab his wallet, the business shop keys and then run back outside. At this point the barn was fully in flames and the two windows to the sunroom of our house had shattered from the heat. A car from route 23 drove down to our house because they saw the fire and Richard was able to hand them Mack, our other older dog, Gunner, was brought to safety by another family friend. We still do not know who this kind lady was. Richard is incredibly grateful for her being there and words cannot express how he felt in that moment and now. With this woman able to care for Mack, Richard was able to move a lot of the trucks and trailers that were near the business buildings away as he was anticipating the fire to spread. While he was moving the trucks and trailers the barn was fully in flames and side of the house (the sunroom and the entrance to the basement) was catching fire and smoke was seeping into the basement and the house.

 

The first fire truck showed up 3 ½ minutes after they were dispatched. They immediately called a second alarm for more units and were spraying down the house and protecting it. The fire crews were pulling hoses through the front door of the house through the kitchen and were able to stop the fire from spreading and saved the house. There was a crew still constantly monitoring the house throughout the night.

 

The fire progressed from the 1884 barn through the trusses over the shop garage and crews fought to put it out. Richard was actively and efficiently navigating the firefighters the construction of the business buildings such as the attic crawl space but because of the heat some of their helmets and gear were being melted in those spaces. Wantage Excavating had a large excavator nearby and because the fire was not letting up and how hot the buildings still were. They were able to help us by pulling the roof apart to help stop the fire from continuing, which was crucial and we are so thankful.

 

Over the course of 5-6 hours, we had about 15 different fire departments at the property, including 1 from Pennsylvania, to help control the fire. That includes approximately 50-60 fire trucks and approximately 250 firefighters on the property. There were 2 to 3 fire trucks stationed at the river which was in close proximity to the buildings that the fire trucks were able to pump from to help put out the fire. They had upwards of 3,000 gallons per minute being pumped onto the buildings.

 

Richard & Morgan, Miles & Lisa and Racheal all left the property at 3am Saturday morning while the firefighters still worked.

 

We arrived back to the scene Saturday morning at 6:30am and saw that we ended up losing the 1884 barn, all 4 bays of the mechanic shop (the building right next to the 1884 barn and what was inside: half a dozen mowers and a pickup), most of the new office building (3 months new) and the sunroom and the basement of the house is burnt and/or severely water and smoke damaged. Throughout the entire house there is varying degrees of smoke damage to the furniture, and other items on each floor.

 

We had around 50 people helping out in varying capacities between cleanup and saving what we could from the piles of what was burned. There are not enough words to say how blessed we feel by the outpouring of love by our friends and family and complete surrendering of their time to help us with this loss. We thank those who were there with us that night and well into the morning and the days following. We have felt God’s hand amid the ashes here on the property. The buildings are temporary but our God is not. We hold on to the eternal and unfading hope with have in Jesus. God is sovereign overall and has been so good to us. We saw a lot of moments throughout this fire that we felt the power of prayer, heard it and saw it be answered in ways we didn’t ask for it but God provided.

 

The cause of the fire is not yet official, so we thank you all for your concerns as we focus on rebuilding on the property. The 1884 barn will continue to remain untouched until the fire marshal has completed his investigation. While we wait, we are able to clean up and create plans for the business buildings and the house around the 1884 barn. The work that has been done already in regards to the house is the sunroom has been gutted with floor removal and is now down to studs and the basement ceiling and flooring has been removed and all furniture has been disposed. All contents in the house have been inventoried via photos, written down and disposed for insurance. The work that has been done already now in regards to the business includes: the administrative office (the new build), the kitchen, sheet rock, furniture, work station and all electronics have been disposed of. The trusses over this same building will need to be removed and re-installed. The mechanic shop has had all concrete removed and gravel has been laid down.

 

As for where the business is relocating during this rebuilding time. The mechanic is moving to the building that was not impacted by the fire, also known as the storage barn. The production team have office trailers that came in this week and are furnished with power, communication and furniture. Administration has moved up to the house and fully operational. As for construction, the architectural plans are being updated and completed this upcoming week. We will be working closely with the insurance company to bring everything that is required for them to finalize this process.

 

We cannot say thank you enough to our community. We are forever grateful; God is forever faithful and no time is ever wasted in God’s timeline. On behalf of the Kuperus family, thank you so much for the cards, meals, prayers, donations, text messages, phone calls, notes and continual support as each day is a new day.

 

Thank you to those who have reached out in terms of donations. Please be patient while we figure out the next steps. We will update you all as soon as we can.

My name is DeBorrah Tibbs. I live in the hot Georgia Peach state in Smyrna. Gardening is my passion and is ever changing. I have gardened most of my life, growing up in a little town called Andover, Ohio, while living on a farm growing sustenance. As I got out on my own, flowers and shrubs became my main focus and passion. What I’d like to share is my before and after garden transformation. I took a bland backyard to what I now call my garden sanctuary. This has been a six-and-a-half-year journey that I think inspired me to started my own YouTube channel, Inspiring Garden Korner, in December 2022.

The finished garden sanctuary

Here’s the space as it looked before, just as work was started making the new garden. Not much to get excited about yet!

It took a lot of work getting everything leveled and ready for building and planting.

Sometimes things have to get ugly before they get pretty, but plants in containers and a few in the ground are already making it feel like a garden even as the construction process continues.

The project is all finished and planted up. Plantings include ‘Double Knockout’ roses (Rosa ‘Double Knockout’, Zones 5–9), woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata, Zones 3–8), ‘Little Limelight’ hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Little Limelight’, Zones 3–8), and jasmine (Jasminum officinale, Zones 7–10) in a flower box, which didn’t survive a freeze blast we had.

These dianthus (Dianthus hybrids, Zones 5–9) are blooming their heads off.

We stained our fence in slate to make everything pop, and I believe that is accomplished.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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The artist’s garden has been a hot topic of late, pulled back into focus with Sarah Price’s interpretation of Cedric Morris’s garden at Benton End for the Chelsea Flower Show last month. A garden as a space to paint or as a source for cut flowers for still-life compositions is a different thing entirely from a garden choreographed and designed to view as one.

For the artist Vanessa Bell, who moved to Charleston Farmhouse with her husband Clive Bell, her lover Duncan Grant (the Bloomsbury Set dynamics were nothing if not unorthodox), along with her children Julian and Quentin (she’d later have another child, Angelica, with Grant), the walled garden, with its old fruit trees and vegetables, would become a flower-filled haze and the source of stems that she’d paint in her studio, which opens directly out into the garden.

The garden was redesigned by their friend Roger Fry (who also devised the handbuilt fireplaces throughout the farmhouse that were essential in the bitingly cold 1916 winter when the artists arrived as conscientious objectors in the middle of the First World War). Long paths are lined with flower-filled borders, with a central lawn punctuated by a tiled pond. A terrace with another small pond and table was placed to catch the evening sun and towards the back of the space, there was a vegetable garden which remains today.

In 2020, in the midst of the first few months of the pandemic, Harry Hoblyn took over as head gardener, having served a year-long traineeship, and continues to negotiate the balance between a garden’s rich heritage and driving it forward. On a baking midsummer day we stopped by for a closer look.

Photography by Clare Coulson.

The large number of species in this genus also means the options are wide open to you, in terms of selecting the right salvia for your garden.

Curious about the many wonderful varieties and how to grow them? Here’s what we’ll discuss to help you make the most of this plant:

Ready to get your hands dirty? Let’s go.

Cultivation and History

With 900-plus types, you’d expect to encounter some variety – and you’d be right.

In this group, you’ll find perennials, annuals, and semi-woody subshrubs. They can be tall, flowy plants, and types that hug the ground almost like a ground cover. They might be annuals, biennials, or perennials.

Flowers are available in a variety of hues: red, pink, white, blue, purple, coral, orange, green, and yellow.

Some types appreciate full sun, and others do quite well in the shade. Some will fill the air with their lovely fragrance while others have no scent.

You’ll find salvias that do well in mass plantings, in borders, or in containers. And some give back by attracting pollinators such as butterflies and hummingbirds.

So what on earth defines saliva, if they can be so varied?

The botanical definition of a salvia is a plant with a unique lever mechanism that facilitates pollination. But don’t worry, you don’t have to examine every plant’s reproductive system to determine whether or not it’s a salvia!

For our purposes, these are typically ornamentals in the Saliva genus. Herbs like garden sage and rosemary are also in this genus, but we’ll focus on those in their own guides.

But if you’re curious, botanically, salvias have two stamens rather than the four that are typical in the Mentheae tribe. This facilitates a mechanism where the pollen is deposited onto the pollinator when it lands on the flower.

This mechanism probably contributes to the diversity and variability of the species because a bee, for instance, would need to visit multiple flowers from likely increasingly distant plants to dislodge the pollen.

With that out of the way, let’s talk about how to bring these plants to your garden.

Propagation

With simple growing requirements, new salvias are also easy to get started. Taking cuttings, starting seeds, dividing, and purchasing nursery starts are all options.

Let’s discuss seeds first.

From Seed

Seeds can be started outdoors after the last predicted frost date. You can also start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost.

If you opt to grow indoors, sow in cells or small, three-inch pots.

Use a seed-starting medium or a light, water-retentive potting soil. If you start them outdoors, loosen and amend the soil 12 inches down with some well-rotted compost or soil conditioner.

When you sow the seeds, they should be just pressed into the surface but not covered with soil. Most species need light to germinate.

Keep the soil evenly moist. If growing indoors, place them in an area where they will receive about eight hours of sunlight per day or under supplemental grow lights.

If you use supplemental lighting, be sure that the seedlings receive at least eight hours of darkness too – don’t leave those lights on.

If the seeds haven’t germinated within three weeks, it’s time to start over and try again.

Wait until the seedlings have at least two true leaves before moving them out into the garden. Before you transplant them, harden the seedlings off to help accustom them to the harsher conditions of outdoor life.

Hardening off is a common process and one you’ll want to familiarize yourself with. It involves gradually introducing a plant to the conditions of the outdoor environment.

If you were to toss a seedling out into full sun right away, it would probably die. So, ease them into the big world by bringing them outside for an hour and then bringing them back inside.

Choose a spot that’s in full sun but is protected from strong wind.

The next day, extend the time to two hours, and three on the third day. Keep adding an hour each day until you’ve reached a full week, and they’re ready to transplant.

From Cuttings

In the early fall, as the plant enters dormancy, take the tip of a non-flowering stem.

You want to cut about six inches just in front of a node. Remove all the lower leaves so that just two or three remain at the top.

Place each cutting in a four-inch pot filled with potting medium and water the medium so that it feels like a well-wrung-out sponge.

Tent a plastic bag over the cutting to create a miniature greenhouse. Place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light.

Maintain soil moisture. In the spring, assuming that new growth has developed, harden the plants off and place them in the garden.

From Divisions

Salvias can not only be divided, but they do better when you split them up as they age. The best time to do so is in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins.

Find more tips on dividing salvia plants here.

Transplanting

Wait for a cool, cloudy day to transplant, if possible.

Spacing is determined by two factors: what the mature size of your plant will be and how dense or distantly spaced you want the garden to be.

If you want space between the plants, take the ultimate mature width, divide it in half, and add a few inches. If you want them to be more densely packed, take half of the mature width and subtract a few inches.

You can buy potted salvia practically anywhere. Or maybe your friends had some extra seedlings that they started.

However you get your hands on them, dig a hole about the same size as the existing pot and gently remove the plant from its pot. The same goes for seedlings or rooted cuttings.

Gently loosen the roots and place the plant into the hole you made. Keep the plant at the same height it was in the growing container.

Backfill with removed soil and water well. Adding mulch around the planting area can help to retain moisture and reduce weed pressure.

How to Grow

Where you grow your salvia will depend on the variety.

Most like well-draining soils, so do keep that in mind. Average garden soil is fine for most varieties but heavy clay absolutely won’t do.

If you have heavy clay, grow your salivas in a container with good drainage.

Most do well in full sun, but you can find some that do well in less light. Whichever type you have, give it the right amount of sun or you’re asking for trouble.

Many from this group are quite drought tolerant, requiring no supplemental water, even in Texas summers. Others will wilt when they’re parched. That said, some prefer moist conditions, such as bog sage (S. uliginosa).

Get to know your specific plants and nab yourself a moisture meter to tip you off as to when it’s time to water.

When it comes to feeding, Richer says, “They don’t need a lot of fertilization. Look at your plant and see how it’s performing.”

If it looks like it needs a boost, “Use a turf-type fertilizer – one that’s heavier in nitrogen,” he says. “Don’t overdo it. Start at the lower end.”

Of course, Richter says, the best way to know if you need to fertilize is by performing a soil test. Many county extension services will analyze a soil sample for you.

Aphids

All salvia species, including garden sage (S. officinalis) are preferred hosts of the sage aphid, Aphis passeriniana.

These green, waxy-looking aphids nest and hide in growing shoots and curled leaves or other tight spaces on sage plants.

Affected plants will have yellow stippling and might be weak or stunted.

This species is rare in cooler, wet areas, but in hot, dry areas, they’re fairly common on salvia plants.

They can be addressed as you would any other species, which we discuss in our guide to aphid control.

Spider Mites

Spider mites cause similar symptoms to aphids. It might be hard to see them since they’re tiny, but you can usually see fine webbing all over your plants when they’re there.

If you see this webbing, along with symptoms, read our guide to managing spider mite infestations to learn what to do.

Disease

Don’t plant your salvia in a soggy, wet area or in heavy clay, and you can pretty much skip this section.

But if you find your plant isn’t looking right and you don’t see any sign of pests, it could be due to one of the following:

Damping Off

Damping off is a concern with young seedlings.

Caused by fungi in the Rhizoctonia and Fusarium genera, and Pythium water molds, it causes seedlings to fail. They might be weak or collapse, or they might form a mushy ring at the base.

Read our guide to damping off to learn more.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew causes white, powder-like patches to form on the foliage. It’s only a problem with plants growing in humid or rainy conditions, or with overwatered plants.

If you notice these spots on your plants, read our troubleshooting guide to learn more about how to deal with powdery mildew.

Stem and Root Rot

As marvelously tough as salvias are, they can be plagued by rot if you plant them in poorly draining soil or if they receive too much water.

Stem rot is caused by oomycetes in the Pythium genus, while root rot can be due to either Pythium pathogens or drowning of the roots because they don’t have enough access to oxygen.

Pythium lives in the soil and needs water to move and reproduce. Once it finds your plant, it causes the lower part of the stem and/or the root to turn black and rotten.

Since you can’t see the roots belowground, look for aboveground symptoms like part or all of the plant wilting or dying.

If you notice these symptoms – and they’re pretty hard to miss – reach for a fungicide.

You have to be careful, though, because these pathogens can become fungicide resistant. If you need to use more than a few treatments, switch the products up now and then.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Woody or herbaceous perennial or annual	Flower/Foliage Color:	Blue, red, pink, purple, orange, yellow, white, green/green, silver, yellow
Native to:	Every continent except Antarctica	Water Needs:	Low to moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	3-10	Maintenance:	Low
Bloom Time:	Spring, summer, fall	Tolerance:	Drought, heat
Exposure:	Full sun to partial shade	Soil Type:	Sandy to loamy
Time to Maturity:	Under 9 months	Soil pH:	5.5-7.5
Spacing:	About 18 inches, depending on type	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Soil surface (seed), same depth as container (transplants)	Attracts:	Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other pollinators
Height:	Typically 1-5 feet	Uses:	Containers, borders, mass planting, specimen, cutting gardens
Spread:	Typically 1-4 feet	Family:	Lamiaceae
Growth Rate:	Fast	Genus:	Salvia
Common Pests and Disease:	Aphids, spider mites; damping off, powdery mildew, stem and root rot	Species:	Clevelandii, dorri, elegans, fruticosa, leucantha, microphylla, officinalis, patens, spathacea, splendens, yangii

Try Growing Adaptable, Varied, and Easy-Going Salvia

With a variety out there that’s suited to growing just about anywhere in the United States, durable salvia is a wonderful addition to many gardens.

It’s easy to care for and is not demanding when it comes to water, nutrition, or soil type. I usually have two or three types growing in my garden at any time, and you should consider adding some to yours.

Symphoricarpos albus

Looking for something different for your yard? How about your very own Snow White in the form of a shrub?

The bright, snow-white berries of snowberry bush will provide both a vision of beauty for the eyes, and a feast for your neighborhood birds!

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Whatever your reason for growing this adaptable shrub, this article will guide you through the entire process – from propagation to planting to long term maintenance.

We’ll also provide tips on where to purchase snowberry bush specimens of your own, as well as any supplies you might need.

And we’ll offer you some ideas touching on the many different purposes this shrub can serve for landscaping.

Ready to get started? Here’s what we’ll cover:

What Is Snowberry Bush?

Snowberry bush (Symphoricarpos albus) is a multi-stemmed, deciduous, woody shrub named for its striking white berries.

Plants have a bushy, rounded growth habit with dense, arching branches. These shrubs grow to be two to six feet tall and wide, attaining larger dimensions when more water is available.

The foliage of S. albus is bluish green, with leaves held opposite each other on their stems.

Snowberry bush leaves display a lot of variation – they range in size from one to four inches long, are elliptical, oval-shaped, or irregularly lobed, and the leaf margins can be smooth or finely serrated.

The stems of the snowberry bush are light to dark gray, with older bark taking on a purplish appearance.

The plant’s small, bell-shaped flowers are pinkish white, dainty, and fairly inconspicuous, appearing in clusters along stems in late spring or summer.

The berries that give snowberry bush its name are showy and appear in autumn, around the same time that its leaves fall.

These berries often remain on their branches throughout the winter, and are attractive to birds – as well as to gardeners!

These shrubs also produce suckers, which can allow them to form dense thickets.

Cultivation and History

Snowberry bush has a very wide native range throughout North America, occurring primarily in temperate deciduous forests and spreading from Northern Canada and Alaska, throughout the northern US and down to Baja California, Mexico.

In the eastern part of the US, the southernmost end of the plant’s range is North Carolina, while in the western half of the US, it grows as a native shrub in every state except Nevada, Arizona, and Texas.

This species is a member of the honeysuckle family or Caprifoliaceae, a plant family which also includes pincushion flower, valerian, corn salad (also known as mache greens) – as well as Japanese honeysuckle, the vines you might have enjoyed sipping nectar from as a kid!

Did you know there are many different types of honeysuckle to grow in your garden? Learn about 13 different types of honeysuckle in our article!

Classified in the Symphoricarpos genus as S. albus, snowberry bush is also known botanically as S. racemosus and S. rivularis.

In more common terms, it’s also known as “common snowberry,” “upright snowberry,” “white snowberry,” “waxberry,” and “white coralberry.”

These days, this plant is considered toxic, however various parts of the shrub have been used as a medicinal plant by different Native American peoples, such as the Ojibwe, Cree, and Nez Perce.

In addition to its medicinal uses, the berries contain lather-producing saponins, and snowberries have been used as a shampoo and soap.

For landscaping and gardening uses, common snowberry has a moderate to fast growth rate, is a low-maintenance plant, and can be grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 through 7.

Propagation

Common snowberry can be propagated from seed, cuttings, suckering, or layering – and we’re going to discuss all four methods here, as well as how to transplant specimens.

Let’s start with seed propagation!

Direct Sowing Seed Outdoors

Propagating common snowberry from seed requires that gardeners have a hefty dose of patience because of the seeds’ lengthy stratification requirements.

S. albus seeds germinate best with a warm, moist stratification period of 45 to 90 days, followed by a cold, moist stratification period of five to six months.

If you are direct sowing outdoors, the stratification periods can take place outdoors and are part of the sowing process.

That means seeds need to be sown in summer and kept moist – despite the likelihood that you won’t see any activity from those seeds for several months!

To sow seeds outdoors in your garden or yard, first clear the planting area of any weeds.

The soil does not need to be amended, but working a handful of well-rotted compost into the soil will improve most soil conditions, and will assist with water retention.

Keep in mind that the final spacing of these plants should be two to six feet apart and plan accordingly.

Next, firm up the planting area by patting it gently with your hand.

Now sow seeds one-quarter to half an inch deep, then pat the soil over the sown seed to ensure good contact between seed and soil. Water in gently, and keep the seed bed moist.

Once germination occurs, water seedlings to keep the soil moist in absence of rain until seedlings are well established – that’s to say, until they are several inches tall.

Sowing Seed Indoors

Gardener, your goal will be to have seeds germinate in spring, so start this process during the summer to allow enough time for the two long periods of stratification.

To replicate the natural stratification process indoors, place seeds in a resealable plastic bag filled with moist vermiculite and store at room temperature in a dark location for 45 to 90 days. This is the warm, moist stratification period.

After that period ends, move the bag to the refrigerator for 180 days for a phase of cold, moist stratification.

I highly recommend using a garden planner or online calendar to keep track of these long wait periods! And don’t forget to keep the medium moist during this long wait.

In springtime, once you are ready to plant the snowberry bush seeds, sow them one-quarter to half an inch deep and keep the soil moist until seedlings germinate.

After germination has occurred, water plants in the absence of rain to keep the soil moist. Once plants are established, watering can be reduced.

From Cuttings

Looking for a late winter gardening project? That’s the best time to propagate S. albus from cuttings.

To propagate new plants from cuttings, use a pair of sterilized garden pruners to prune off five- to six-inch-long sections of hardwood stem that are at least pencil-sized in thickness.

Use the pruners to remove any branches, buds, or leaves from the bottom two to three inches of each cutting, as well as any remaining fruit.

And if you’re working with more than one cutting, keep the other ones moist by wrapping them in a wet paper towel while you prepare each cutting.

Pick up a cutting and trim the base of the stem at an angle, then dip the angled end in a rooting hormone, such as Olivia’s Cloning Gel.

Olivia’s Cloning Gel

A great product to keep on hand for various gardening and propagation projects, you’ll find Olivia’s Cloning Gel in two-, four-, or eight-ounce bottles from Arbico Organics.

After dipping the cuttings in rooting hormone, stick each of them into its own four-inch pot filled with a sterile, 50:50 mix of sand and vermiculite or perlite.

Use a spray bottle to moisten the growing medium and cuttings, then place them in a greenhouse – or cover each cutting and pot with a transparent plastic bag to serve as a mini-greenhouse.

For the first four to six weeks, keep the pots warm at 75 to 85°F, using a heat mat if necessary, such as the Hydrofarm Jump Start Heat Mat.

Hydrofarm Jump Start Heat Mat

The Jump Start Heat Mat is available for purchase in several different sizes from the Hydrofarm Store via Amazon.

I like to place my propagation projects on a tray, then place the heat mat under the tray to keep it dry.

Mist these cuttings regularly to keep them and their growing medium moist, and expose them to long days of bright light, such as you would find in a greenhouse.

If you’re undertaking this project in your home rather than a greenhouse, you may need the assistance of a grow light.

You can learn more about using grow lights in our article.

The cuttings should be well rooted within four months. At this point, begin to water them normally.

The rooted cuttings can now be transplanted into gallon-sized nursery pots filled with potting soil, such as Tank’s Pro Potting Mix.

Tank’s Pro Potting Mix 1.5 Cubic Foot Bag

You can purchase a 1.5-cubic-foot bag of Tank’s Pro Potting Mix from Tank’s Green Stuff via Arbico Organics.

Continue growing the plants in greenhouse-like conditions for two more months, then begin to harden them off prior to transplanting.

Just like with annuals started from seed indoors, shrubs and perennials started indoors or in greenhouse conditions need to be hardened off before planting them outdoors.

From Suckers

Snowberry bushes can send up suckers – new stems that emerge from the plant’s rhizomes. Thrifty gardeners can take advantage of this phenomenon to propagate additional plants.

Once suckers are observed, wait until the plant is dormant during the winter months. Dig up the sucker, severing it from the mother plant, and transplant the young shrub into the desired location in your yard or garden.

Not sure if you’ll be able to identify the sucker once its leaves have fallen?

Here’s a tip: tie a brightly colored twisty tie on the sucker while it’s leafed out, so you’ll be able to recognize it again once its leaves have fallen.

From Layering

New specimens of snowberry bush can also be propagated via layering, a project for early spring.

To achieve this, select one of the lower stems and bend it gently to make contact with the ground if it isn’t already touching.

Without severing it from the plant, cover the part of the stem that touches the ground with a few inches of soil, making sure the growing tip at the end of the stem is not covered.

Affix the buried stem to the ground, weighing it down with a brick or rock.

Keep the soil moist where the stem is buried and allow the layered stem to root over the next year.

The following spring, sever the stem from the parent plant with a pair of sterilized garden pruners, but allow the new plant to recover for a few weeks before moving it.

After two or three weeks have elapsed, the new shrub can be transplanted to a different location in your garden or yard.

From Transplants

Whether you grew a snowberry bush yourself or purchased one from a nursery, you’ll eventually want to transplant it into the soil.

No? Want to keep growing your snowberry in a container? Be sure to read our article on growing shrubs in containers first!

Autumn tends to be the best time to transplant shrubs for most gardeners.

However, there are some exceptions, such as for those of us who live in very arid locations that are also very cold in the winter.

In this case, spring may be a better option for transplanting shrubs since it can be hard to keep new additions properly watered during cold, arid winters.

In addition to choosing the appropriate season to do your transplanting, plan this project for an overcast day, or do it after the day has cooled. Plants will suffer less from transplant shock when they don’t have the full brunt of the sun shining on them.

Once you are ready to get planting, dig a hole twice as wide as the plant’s nursery pot and a couple of inches deeper.

If you’re working with a bare root plant, make the hole deep enough to accommodate the plant’s roots, and provide a few inches of leeway in width.

Add a handful or two of well-rotted compost to the hole; the amount doesn’t have to be exact. Then mix in some of the soil you previously removed from the hole.

For bare root specimens, wet down the roots before placing in the hole, then fill with the removed soil.

For specimens in nursery pots, ease the plant out by tilting it upside down and squeezing the sides of the pot if needed. Don’t use the plant’s foliage to pull it out of the pot!

With the plant out of the nursery pot, loosen up the roots if they are pot-bound by rubbing your hand along them.

Feel free to offer words of encouragement to the plant at this point or to sing it a little song – why not? I won’t guarantee it makes any difference to my plants when I do this, but it makes me feel better.

If any growing medium comes out from the root ball during this process, put it into the hole, mixing it with the compost and loose soil.

Situate the unpotted shrub in the hole. For both bare root specimens and those grown in nursery pots, the top of the root ball should be just level with the soil.

Adjust the amount of soil under the shrub so that the root ball is at the right level, then backfill with soil, and gently pat the soil around the plant. (Additional singing and encouragement at this point is fine too!)

Provide the snowberry bush with some water, and let the water and soil settle in.

If the soil level has sunken down considerably, add more so that the root ball is covered and at the right level compared to the ground, taking care not to bury the shrub’s crown with soil.

Finish the project off by watering the shrub one more time.

Keep the newly transplanted shrub’s soil moist as it gets established, irrigating daily if needed over the next couple of weeks.

Taper off the frequency of your waterings gradually thereafter, and adjust for rainfall.

How to Grow

Snowberry bush is adaptable to different light conditions and can grow in full sun, part shade, or even full shade. However, it will produce the most flowers and fruit when situated in full sun.

Reflecting its widespread range, this species also grows in a variety of well-drained soil types within a pH range of 6.1 to 8.4, and tolerates poor soil, limestone, and coarse, rocky soils.

It grows exceedingly well in heavy clay soil, but doesn’t grow well in soils with lots of granite content.

Common snowberry is drought tolerant once established, and in its native range survives in some areas with as little as three and a half inches of water a year!

However, more water will provide more lush growth.

In dry climates, provide irrigation as needed until plants are established. This may mean watering daily during the warm season for the first year after planting, reducing to once a week the following year, and watering once a month in the third year – depending on your climate and rainfall.

Learn more about irrigating with our article!

Growing Tips

• Grow in full sun to maximize flowering and berry production.
• Provide irrigation as needed until established.
• Plant in well-drained, non-granitic soils.

Pruning and Maintenance

Once your snowberry bushes are planted, it’s a good idea to place mulch around the shrubs to help with water conservation.

Place a layer of mulch an inch or two thick on the soil, but leave a couple of mulch-free inches around the shrubs’ trunks. This will help prevent disease spread.

Not sure what type of mulch to use? Read our article to get the dirt on different types of mulches to use for low-maintenance gardening!

When growing native plants in their original range, fertilizer is often deemed unnecessary – the plant has evolved to be tolerant of the soil conditions in that range, after all!

And sometimes, when used with certain native wildflowers, fertilizer can actually cause the flowers to become too leggy.

However, when using snowberry bush in an intentionally designed landscape or garden setting, a balanced fertilizer can be used to encourage good growth. Fertilizer can be applied once a month from April to July.

Since this plant has a wide native range and is used to different conditions, there is not a one size fits all absolute rule when it comes to fertilizing them.

You can use a balanced fertilizer, well-rotted compost, vermicompost, or composted manure, such as this Chicken Manure Compost from Farmer’s Organic that’s available via Amazon in 22-quart bags.

Farmer’s Organic Chicken Manure Compost

To apply fertilizer, follow the instructions on the bag, or add compost by pushing the mulch to the side, mixing a couple of handfuls of compost into the soil, and replacing the mulch.

As for pruning, in a wild habitat, snowberry bushes would be pruned back by the hungry mouths of browsers such as deer.

But in the home landscape or garden, you can fill in for the deer with a pair of garden pruners.

Prune in early spring, trimming back each stem to your desired length, and shaping the shrub as preferred.

Also, every few years, trim one-third of the oldest, thickest stems back to the ground to help rejuvenate the plants.

If a plant sends up suckers and cultivating a hedge or thicket is not what you had in mind, prune the suckers back as needed.

Learn more about pruning shrubs in our article.

Species and Cultivars to Select

If you’re looking for the straight species, the one we’ve described so far in this article, you want to ask for “common snowberry” or Symphoricarpos albus.

Common Snowberry

Species plants are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

You can also find a one- to two-year-old live plant shipped either bare root or in a nursery pot, depending on the season, available via Amazon.

When looking for the straight species locally, you’ll have the most luck finding S. albus at garden nurseries that specialize in native plants while hybrid cultivars tend to be more widely available.

Here are a few options to consider:

Magic Berry

‘Magic Berry’ is a Symphoricarpos hybrid that produces pink-colored berries in midsummer that deepen to burgundy in fall.

2-3 Year Old ‘Magic Berry’ Live Plant

You’ll find ‘Magic Berry’ available to purchase as a two- to three-year-old bare root plant or in a 3.2-gallon nursery pot from Nature Hills.

Sophie

Another Symphoricarpos hybrid, ‘Sophie’ is more compact than the straight species, reaching only three to four feet tall and wide at the most. Berries develop in fall and are dark pink in color.

2-4 Year Old ‘Sophie’ Live Plant

‘Sophie’ can be found for purchase as a live two- to four-year-old plant in a 1.5-gallon nursery pot from Nature Hills.

Variegatus

‘Variegatus’ is a variegated cultivar of S. albus. It’s more slow-growing than the straight species and has beautiful, white-margined leaves.

Can’t get enough multi-colored foliage? Discover a selection of 23 different variegated shrubs in our article!

Managing Pests and Disease

Common snowberry is considered resistant to deer – not that they won’t eat it, but the plants will bounce back well after a bit of browsing.

In fact, this species is considered an important browse for deer, antelope, and bighorn sheep. Just be careful to protect young specimens from deer until they are established.

Want to keep deer out of your yard or garden altogether? Learn how to install deer fencing.

Insect pests don’t tend to be a problem for this species. Various types of sphinx moths and leaf miner moths (Phyllonorycter spp.) can use this species as a larval host, but any damage they cause often goes unnoticed.

And remember, if you are growing this species as part of a native tree and shrub landscape, providing native insects with food and habitat is actually part of the goal. This should be celebrated rather than treated like a problem.

Diseases are not common with S. albus, but when they do appear, the most commonly encountered are leaf spot, rust, powdery mildew, and berry rot.

Best Uses

Not sure how to best use snowberry bush in your landscape or garden? There are so many different options!

Let’s talk about practicalities first.

Because of their deep roots, these shrubs are an excellent choice to help stabilize banks along rivers, creeks, or streams. And since snowberry bushes are moderately tolerant of flooding, they can even be used in flood plains.

Likewise, because of their moderate flooding tolerance, snowberry bushes can be incorporated into rain gardens.

These shrubs are also an excellent choice for sites that are in need of restoration or that are prone to fire – they’ll resprout from their rhizomes after a fire occurs.

Planted densely, snowberry bushes can also be mass planted to form a border, privacy screen, or hedge.

If one of the goals of your gardening endeavors is to create habitat and food for wildlife, snowberry is a brilliant choice, and it can be used in butterfly gardens, pollinator gardens, and native plant gardens.

Snowberry bush’s branches provide good habitat for birds and small mammals, and its berries will provide a food supply for birds all winter long.

Of course, the berries also provide fall and winter interest in the home landscape, and they may be what drew you to this plant in the first place!

When companion planting is a goal, look to the species this shrub grows among in its native range.

Good shrub companions for snowberry bush include bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), mock orange (Philadelphus spp.), creeping Oregon grape (Berberis repens), ninebark (Physocarpus malvaceus), red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea), and Wood’s rose (Rosa woodsii).

As for trees, consider deciduous trees like Douglas hawthorn (Crataegus douglasii) and thinleaf alder (Alnus icana), as well as evergreens like curl leaf mountain mahogany (Cercocarpus ledifolius), Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii), ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa), subalpine fir (Abies lasiocarpa), and western hemlock (Tsuga heterphylla).

Also, Idaho fescue (Festuca idahoensis) is a type of small bunching grass with a beautiful bluish hue that makes a good companion plant, visually as well as ecologically!

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Deciduous shrub	Flower/Foliage Color:	Pinkish white/bluish green
Native to:	North America	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	2-7	Tolerance:	Clay soil, deer, drought, dry soil, erosion, fire, flooding, poor soil, pollution
Bloom Time:	Late spring or early summer	Soil Type:	All except granitic soils
Exposure:	Full sun, part shade, full shade	Soil pH:	6.1-8.4
Time to Maturity:	2-3 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	2-6 feet	Attracts:	Bees, birds, butterflies, small mammals, songbirds
Planting Depth:	1/4-1/2 inch deep (seeds), root ball level with soil surface (transplants)	Companion Planting:	Bearberry, creeping Oregon grape, curl leaf mountain mahogany, Douglas fir, Douglas hawthorn, Idaho fescue, mock orange, ninebark, ponderosa pine, red osier dogwood, subalpine fir, thinleaf alder, western hemlock, Wood’s rose
Height:	2-6 feet	Uses:	Bank stabilization, butterfly gardens, hedges, mass planting, native plant gardens, pollinator gardens, rain gardens, screening, site restoration, wildlife gardens
Spread:	2-6 feet	Order:	Dipsacales
Growth Rate:	Moderate to fast	Family:	Caprifoliaceae
Water Needs:	Low	Genus:	Symphoricarpos
Common Pests and Disease:	Leafminers, sphinx moths; berry rot, leaf spot, powdery mildew, rust	Species:	Albus

Snow White Awaits You

Ready to bring this beauty to life in your yard?

You should now know exactly how to get started with growing your snowberry bushes, and you’ll be prepared to keep them happy and healthy. And feel free to whistle while you work!

What’s your motivation for growing these lovely shrubs in your landscaping? Are you exhilarated by their snow white berries?

Is creating wildlife habitat your main motivation? Or do you have some other personal connection with these plants?

Feel free to share your stories in the comments section below – and let us know if you need any help while you’re there!

Need more shrub-related landscaping guidance? We’ve got plenty for you right here:

Even the most insect-wary gardeners have a special place in their hearts for butterflies. They bring a touch of whimsy and serendipity to our yards, flitting along like fairies and pollinating flowers. Unfortunately, after decades of habitat loss and the decline in biodiversity across the United States, gardening for butterflies has taken on a dire tone. The good news is that gardeners like us can help save them. It all starts with feeding their caterpillars, and for that you need butterfly host plants.

Adult butterflies drink nectar from a wide variety of flowers but will only lay their eggs on compatible host plants that their caterpillars can eat. Some butterfly species have numerous hosts, others have just a few, and some, like monarchs, only have one. Monarch butterflies were added to the IUCN Endangered List in July 2022. Even here in the eastern United States, where the majority of the monarch population resides each summer, they are at risk of extinction. Going out of your way to include these host plants in your landscape can make a world of difference in supporting biodiversity.

Milkweed

Asclepias spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9
Size: 2 to 4 feet tall and 1½ to 2 feet wide (depending on variety)
Conditions: Full sun and well-draining soil
Bloom time: June through August

Plants in the milkweed genus are the only compatible hosts for the monarch butterfly, and several species are native to the Southeast. Milkweed’s clusters of distinct, starry blooms shine above the lanceolate foliage in summer. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa, Zones 4–9) and swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata, Zones 3–9) are among the best suited milkweeds for urban and suburban gardens because they are prolific bloomers and do not spread aggressively by rhizomes like common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca, Zones 3–9) does, although both species do self-sow. There’s even more landscaping potential with the incredible color variations of cultivars on the market. Research on cultivars of milkweed has shown them to be just as beneficial as the parental species for monarch caterpillars and other pollinators in home gardens.

Golden Alexander

Zizia aurea, Zones 4–9
Size: 1½ to 2½ feet tall and 1½ to 2 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade and moist to average soil
Bloom time: April through June

This member of the carrot family is an eastern U.S. native and is food for the black swallowtail butterfly. Golden Alexander sports clusters of golden blooms in late spring, each tiny flower balanced perfectly in a structure of dainty stems like an elegant chandelier. Its lacy architecture makes it a wonderful native replacement for the invasive yet popular Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota, Zones 3–9). This plant would be right at home in a cottage garden. In summer, its seed heads dry to an attractive purple. Golden Alexander thrives in moist to wet sites in the wild but has proven to be adaptable and a breeze to care for in the garden. Mine grows quite happily in a sunny spot with only the Virginia rain to water it.

Switchgrass

Panicum virgatum, Zones 4–9
Size: 36 to 72 inches tall and 18 to 36 inches wide (depending on variety)
Conditions: Full sun to light shade and wet to average soil
Bloom time: August

It’s best not to overlook the importance of grasses in butterfly and wildlife gardens. While switchgrass is not a nectar plant, it is the host plant for many types of skippers, satyrs, and the common wood nymph. Its seeds are eaten by pheasants and songbirds once they drop to the ground, and its dense foliage provides shelter for insects and small wildlife. Switchgrass is native to almost every state in the country and will thrive in just about any soil type. Its artfully rolling curls and reddish-purple seed heads bring immense interest. Cultivars on the market push the color-changing capabilities even more, offering pronounced shades of burgundy, maroon, and purple in the fall.

Spicebush

Lindera benzoin, Zones 4–9
Size: 6 to 12 feet tall and wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade and moist to average soil
Bloom time: March through April

Another eastern U.S. native, spicebush is a host plant for the eastern tiger swallowtail and the spicebush swallowtail (which also faces a troubling population decline). Tufts of yellow blooms open on otherwise bare stems in early spring, offering a similar glow to forsythia (Forsythia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9). The female plants produce bright red berries if there’s a male nearby for pollination, much to the delight of birds. In fall, spicebush shines with brilliant yellow foliage. This shrub thrives in partial shade but can handle more sun with sufficient moisture, making it a versatile landscape shrub. In addition to butterfly gardens, it’s great for layering in deciduous borders and softening the boundary between woods and yard space.

Once you’ve chosen and planted your host plants, remember that gardening for butterflies goes beyond plant choices. It’s also about our perspective on pests. These plants are beacons for all sorts of insects, both beneficial and unwanted. (Some gardeners would call caterpillars pests too.) Because these are host plants, you will have to be OK with parts of the foliage getting eaten by hungry caterpillars. And remember that any pesticides applied to the plant will adversely affect the caterpillars you’ve worked so hard to attract. To get rid of aphids, mild soapy water or a blast from a hose is all you need.

For more information on supporting pollinators, check out:

And for more Southeast regional reports, click here.

 

—Cheyenne Wine is a writer and photographer for Rare Roots Nursery in Mechanicsville, Virginia.

Photos, unless otherwise noted: Cheyenne Wine

Few plants can add the romance and cozy-cottage feeling to a garden like climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, Zones 4–9) can. Whether it’s covering a semi-shady east-facing wall (an ideal spot), tumbling over a stone wall, or enveloping the trunk of a large, deciduous tree, climbing hydrangea can be a valuable asset, providing lush green foliage and masses of white, lacy umbels of flowers in early summer. Like many late spring and early summer flowering plants, climbing hydrangea is best pruned just after it blooms in late June so that new growth can form the next year’s flower buds by late summer. However, pruning right after blooming isn’t always practical because, like most vines, climbing hydrangea is a vigorous plant once established, and it can be difficult to see the overall structure of the plant with all of its leaves in full flush. Some selective pruning may need to be done nearly any month of the year, and that’s totally OK. But if you prune anytime from fall to spring, you may sacrifice some flowers.

You can prune for a tidy, tight habit with fewer flowers if you do a hard pruning in early spring. Or you can learn to accept (or tolerate) the more casual look of a rascally, out of control yet blooming climbing hydrangea if you do a hard pruning just after flowering.

Pruning for tidiness and overall structure

In its ideal growing conditions—dappled shade, moist soil, and some protection from strong wind—climbing hydrangea can add many feet of growth during a single season. To keep plants in check, many gardeners find that selective training is often required throughout the growing season. But it’s while the plant has no foliage—in autumn, winter, or, ideally, early spring—when you can truly get in there and prune hard enough to make a difference.

If you want to prune your climbing hydrangea in early spring, just before the first leaves flush out, cut back hard to remove long, unwanted growth that might be crossing over some windows or extending too far out into a nearby pathway. Thankfully, this is a plant that can handle hard cutbacks, which should be done every two years to keep the growth in check. Remember, you are dealing with a woody vine.

Some touch-up pruning can happen just as the first leaves emerge, as it’s sometimes difficult to estimate how far back one should cut. Keeping a plant tidy is one thing, but the first flush of new green growth can be surprisingly vigorous, and new branches can seem to grow inches overnight, extending over stairs or railings in just a week or two. This new growth can be cut as needed throughout spring.

Pruning to maintain an impressive flower display

While the foliar effect is the main reason why most people grow climbing hydrangea, the flowers are a bonus. If you’re finding that you have few or no flowers on your plant, know that it forms its flower buds on last year’s growth. So a hard pruning in spring will compromise any flowers in the coming season. If you train your vine to a tree trunk, you may find that most blooms occur near the top of the plant. If you are growing your hydrangea over a fence or against a wall, you may want flowers to form along the entire plant. To achieve this, limit your hardest pruning to just after flowering, usually in July.

I like to keep both structure and flowering in mind when I prune my climbing hydrangea. I trim as needed throughout the year, but I’m always conscious about potential blooming stems that have matured the previous summer.

For more tips on pruning hydrangeas, click here.

And for more Northeast regional reports, click here.

 

—Matt Mattus is the author of two books: Mastering the Art of Flower Gardening and Mastering the Art of Vegetable Gardening. He gardens in Worcester, Massachusetts.

Photos, unless otherwise noted: Matt Mattus

A trend I see among many gardeners is experimenting with “new” perennials, either novel cultivars from breeders or older varieties that the plantsperson in question has never grown. Most of our budgets can accommodate trying a few new perennials each year, and it’s easy to understand why gardeners may go for these exciting options over native shrubs. Flashy, flowering perennials are much more eye-catching on a nursery shelf than woody plants begging to get out of their #1 nursery pot.

I believe there is a missed opportunity here, though. As far as impact goes, a single shrub purchase can go farther than a purchase of perennials for the same price. This is true for visual impact in our gardens as well as for value to wildlife. If investing in a garden with year-round appeal and wildlife value is high on your priority list, consider native shrubs to round out your end-of-spring purchases.

One plant that should definitely be on this list is Colorado barberry (Berberis fendleri), and you will find the profile I wrote on that plant in Fine Gardening #213, which will be published in August. Below, you’ll find three more native shrubs with comparable appeal to both people and wildlife that should be easy to find at your local nursery.

 

Golden currant (Ribes aureum; photo above)

Zones: 3–8

Size: 4 to 6 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide

Conditions: Partial to full shade; moist to dry soil

The native range alone of golden currant should be a tip-off that it’s one of the most adaptable shrubs around. It can be found in the mixed woods of the Midwest, across much of the Great Plains, throughout the Mountain West, and across the Great Basin to the Sierras. Saying this shrub is easygoing might be an understatement. Called golden for its clusters of starry, fragrant flowers, this plant make a strong early-season show, blooming in late April or early May in my Colorado garden. While the most common cultivars of the nursery trade present with fruits that ripen to black, native plants in my area often bare jewel-like, amber fruits that glow when sidelit in the morning or the evening. Regardless of their color, they are beloved by songbirds and make for great eating fresh off the shrub or cooked down into sauces and jelly, thanks to their high pectin content. Come fall, these plants reward the gardener with a third round of interest in the form of blazing red autumn color. Thornless, unlike many of their relatives, these plants excel in full sun and with moderate moisture but adapt to most sites (moderate-wet to dry and sunny to partial shade) without fuss.

Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia)

Zones: 2–8

Size: 4 to 12 feet tall and 4 to 12 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moderately wet to moderately dry soil

This native shrub is widely available at nurseries and is a cinch to grow. Actually, it might be easier to describe where it won’t grow than where it will: deep shade and sites that are bone dry and very hot. Otherwise, these adaptable natives provide a host of benefits, ranging from delicate-looking, five-petaled flowers in spring to bird-feeding berries in summer and reliable fall color before leaf senescence. Like many native woody members of the rose family, serviceberry is a remarkably valuable host plant, feeding dozens of native caterpillars. When shopping for this species, watch nursery tags carefully, as mature size varies wildly by cultivar. Some plants remain shrubs, while others attain treelike size. Some are even columnar! In my experience, tree forms will sucker if stressed, either by drought or other stresses. Gardeners in the drier portions of our region should consider the cousin Amelanchier utahensis (Utah serviceberry), a more xeric-friendly lookalike. Both plants display attractive, rounded leaves and edible berries enjoyed by critters with two legs or more.

Boulder raspberry (Rubus deliciosus)

Zones: 4–8

Size: 4 to 6 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moderately wet to moderately dry soil

My main complaint with this plant is the downright misleading epithet of deliciosus; it’s a berry only a bird (or maybe a bear) could love. Dry and mealy, these berries aren’t worth eating, as I discovered as a kid—to my great disappointment. Thankfully, I’ve moved past that brief offense. As an adult, I consider these plants fantastic native additions to well-rounded landscapes. With tawny, exfoliating bark, plants provide off-season interest and cloak themselves in large, attractive rugose leaves during the growing season. In late spring, look for a flush of gigantic, white, five-petaled flowers, each with an eye-catching, fuzzy-looking center. I grow this plant like I grow serviceberries, including it as an understory plant in partial-shade sites in more-mature garden spaces where its unusual, warm-toned bark and striking foliage add interest to such understated spaces. Plants need irrigation in areas with hot summers to retain their charm but are well suited to rocky and gravelly soils.

 

See more gardening advice for the Mountain West

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We picked about 5lbs of carrots yesterday,

We mixed up various types and colors. We’ve harvested one bed out of the row gardens and are leaving the second bed to go to seed. I’m sure the mixed genetics will be vigorous. They’re already doing pretty well – especially the purple ones.

Having actual soil instead of sandy grit has made quite a difference. Things grow properly here, with less pest issues, less diseases, more vigor and much better yields.

Unrelated to carrots, we are selling some items this weekend to clear out unneeded stuff from the house.

There was an unused wardrobe against one of the walls in the main hallway which we’ve taken out and have now replaced with a bookshelf.

We made that shelf from pallet wood and some scrap plywood. It was sitting in the study; however, we are building some bookshelves into the wall there, so we’ve moved it out in order to commence construction.

To complete this corner, all we need is a plant in that pot on the right. Maybe mother-in-law tongue. That would look cool.

Incidentally, on the lower right of the bookshelf there is a set of 7 red, white and blue volumes. That is my set of Gibbon’s History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. Book eight is on my bedside table and I’m half-way through it.

Getting rid of my smartphone was one of the best choices I made last year. Now I actually have time to read, instead of distracting myself reading the news.

Today we’re moving more furniture out to be sold, as well as getting some work done in the nursery.

This Saturday we’ll have our third plant sale at the Atmore Flea Market – our booth will be open from 8AM to 1PM. Maybe we’ll see you there!

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Keith Irvine is sharing his garden with us today. We’ve visited with him before (Keith’s Zone 3 Garden), and it’s a pleasure to revisit this beautiful garden.

I have put together some photos of the highlights of spring 2023 in our Zone 3 garden in Oxdrift, Ontario. It has been a very dry spring here and considerably warmer than normal. We usually have an old-timers rule here that it is not safe to plant out the annuals until after the full moon in June. This year we didn’t have any frosty mornings after about mid-May.

Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica, Zones 3–9) show off in the foreground, with ‘Tahiti’ daffodils (Narcissus ‘Tahiti’, Zones 3–9) behind. The Virginia bluebells have pink buds that open pink and then quickly turn blue. After they bloom the plant will dry right up and disappear until the following spring. When I first planted them I thought I had lost the whole batch but was pleasantly surprised the next spring.

Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ (Zones 3–8)

Fern leaf peony (Paeonia tenuifolia, Zones 3–8)

Early in my gardening life I visited an abandoned logging camp where lupins (Lupinus polyphyllus, Zones 3–8) had naturalized. I dug up several of each color—purple, pink, and white—and transplanted them to my property. Since then they have naturalized, although sometimes not where I want them.

Tree peonies, such as this magenta-colored tree peony (Paeonia hybrid, Zones 4–8) in the Japanese garden, require winter cover in Oxdrift. I make boxes from blue building styrofoam to provide insulation.

Bridal wreath spirea (Spirea prunifolia, Zones 3–8) has taken off beside the entrance to the house.

In this mass planting of ferns, the shorter ones at the front are nursery-bought ostrich ferns (Matteuccia struthiopteris, Zones 3–7). The taller ones in the back are native ferns. They are much easier to manage. The ostrich ferns spread like wildfire.

Yellow tree peony

I keep a very large collection of tender succulents in the basement every winter and put them in my gardens in the summer. This bowl was a gift for my 70th birthday last summer. Creating this planting was the first thing I did when I started up my greenhouse in March.

I built this succulent container about five years ago, and it is always fun to create a new arrangement annually. This one has a mixture of hardy and tender succulents.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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With a remodel and a garden design project under way, I’ve been researching how to simplify garden maintenance and cut back on water usage. And I keep hearing more and more about the advantages of decomposed granite. Why? It turns out that in many ways decomposed granite (or DG, as it’s commonly called) is the ideal hardscape material: natural, permeable, aesthetically versatile, and wonderfully inexpensive.

After I started looking into DG, I began to notice it everywhere: The pretty little path through the local recreation field that never gets muddy? Decomposed granite. The soft, natural-looking driveway, where the surface stays put? Also decomposed granite. The mulch at the base of trees that keeps the ground weed-free?  DG again.

Is DG the right material to choose for your hardscaping project? Read on:

What is decomposed granite?

See more of this garden at Before & After: A 1940s-Suburban House Grows Up Gracefully in Mill Valley, CA.

Decomposed granite is like gravel, but finer and generally more stable. It’s formed from the natural weathering and erosion of solid granite, a tough, hard, igneous rock. The DG sold as landscaping material is typically composed of fine three-eighths-inch (or smaller) particles; some may be no bigger than a grain of sand. Colors vary, from buff to brown, and include various shades of gray, black, red, and green.

For more garden design ideas, see Low-Cost Luxury: 9 Ways to Use Decomposed Granite in a Landscape.