Category: Home & Garden

We will have a third plant sale – which may be our last for a time – this Saturday, at the Atmore Flea Market.

There is also a livestock sale/swap going on at the Flea Market the same day. Bonus!

Of course, we had our own livestock swap last week, when a wonderful family traded us some ducks for plants:

It’s been fun just hanging out with Good Gardeners and talking, too. Even if you’re broke, we wouldn’t mind seeing you.

ADDRESS: 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL

TIME: Saturday, June 23rd from 8AM to 1PM

Some of the plants for sale include:

Pineapple guava
Chaste tree (awesome for butterflies!)
Sweet Shrub
Jerusalem artichoke
Comfrey
Tobacco
Chitlepin peppers
Bamboo (giant yellow timber type) “Robert Young”
Tropical milkweed
Chocolate mint
Banana (Dwarf Cavendish and Musa Basjoo)
Daisies
Elderberries
Mushroom herb
Chocolate mint
Stevia
Cannas

…and more rare tidbits.

Daisy will also have a collection of seeds for sale as well.

NOTE: We REALLY need more pots! If you have any one-gallon or larger pots to trade for plants, we’ll give a credit of 50 cents for every pot turned in. That’s right – you can buy plants with pots!

We also just got copies of the huge, expanded version of Create Your Own Florida Food Forest back in stock, and we’ll have them there.

We also now have Compost Your Enemies T-shirts BACK IN STOCK!

Come and get one!

Finally, there’s a big estate sale happening right next door on the same day with lots of beautiful antiques – totally worth hitting that too.

See you Saturday.

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If you’ve ever stepped into a shower with water pressure that’s too high, you know just how uncomfortable it can be. What’s more, water pressure that is too high can damage your home’s plumbing. Fortunately, there are several ways to decrease the water pressure in your shower, so you can enjoy a more comfortable and relaxing experience. 

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Decreasing the water pressure in your shower can help you enjoy a more comfortable and relaxing experience while reducing water waste and saving money on your water bill. Don’t wait for the problem to worsen before calling a professional to assess your home’s plumbing system. Fix the issue now to save you money and the headache of an even bigger issue down the road.

Here are the steps to decrease the water pressure in your shower:

Adjust the Water Pressure Regulator

The first thing you should check if the water pressure is too high in the shower is the water pressure regulator. The role of a water pressure regulator is to keep the water flowing through your pipes at a consistent pressure, which is a critical part of your home’s plumbing system. 

In most homes, this valve is located near the water main where the municipal supply comes into your house. Residential plumbing systems are designed to be between 40 and 60 pounds per square inch (psi). By adjusting this valve, you can lower the water pressure in your shower. To do this, locate the valve and turn it counterclockwise until the desired water pressure is reached. 

Adjusting your home’s water pressure regulator or installing a pressure-reducing valve can effectively control water pressure throughout your house, including in the shower. This method is particularly useful if you continuously experience high water pressure in your plumbing system.

It’s also possible that your water pressure regulator may need to be replaced. If this is the case, it’s time to call a plumber.  

Install a Pressure-Reducing Valve

If adjusting the water pressure valve doesn’t work, or if you can’t find yours, you may need to install a pressure-reducing valve. This valve is specifically designed to reduce water pressure. It can be installed on the main water supply line to your home. 

Once installed, the valve automatically adjusts the water pressure to a safe and comfortable level. It is possible to do this yourself if you are handy, though, for most people, this is a time to call in a professional.

Use a Flow Restrictor

If you have checked that the issue does not stem from the water pressure being too high in your house, you’ll want to turn to the shower next. One way to decrease the water pressure in your shower is to use a flow restrictor. 

These small devices can be inserted into your showerhead or installed directly into the shower’s water supply line. Flow restrictors reduce the amount of water that flows through the showerhead, which can help lower the water pressure.

To specifically address shower pressure, a flow restrictor can help by decreasing the water flow through the showerhead, reducing the water pressure. Another option is to examine and replace your current showerhead, especially if it’s aged or damaged. Opting for a low-flow or water-efficient showerhead can conserve water while offering an enjoyable shower experience.

Inspect the Showerhead

An old or damaged showerhead can cause the water pressure to be too high. Most newer shower heads have a flow restrictor, but a flow restrictor is like a washer and can wear out over time. 

Replacing this could fix the issue. Consider replacing your showerhead with a low-flow or water-efficient model. These showerheads are designed to reduce the amount of water that flows through them, which can help lower the water pressure and save water simultaneously.

Clean the Showerhead

If you don’t want to replace your showerhead, try cleaning it instead. Over time, mineral deposits and other debris can build up inside the showerhead, causing it to clog and restrict water flow. This is especially common in locations with hard water. 

To clean your showerhead, remove it from the shower arm and soak it in equal parts vinegar and hot water for several hours. Then, rinse the showerhead thoroughly and reattach it to the shower arm. This solution will alleviate high water pressure. 

Don’t forget to inspect the water supply pipes, as mineral buildup and corrosion can also heighten water pressure. Enlisting a plumber to check your water supply pipes and possibly install a whole-home water softener can help you avoid future problems.

Check the Water Supply Pipes

If you have cleaned or replaced your shower head and the issue still needs to be resolved, you may have a problem with the water supply pipes. Just like with the shower head, minerals can build up over time and corrode or clog the pipes in your home. This can cause water pressure to build up. 

Consider having a plumber inspect your water supply pipes to ensure they are in good condition and not causing high water pressure. You might want to install a whole home water softener to prevent hard water from causing build-up in your pipes, fixtures, and appliances. 

Check the Water Heater

If you have a tank-style water heater, it may be contributing to high water pressure in your shower. As the water heater increases the water temperature, the water expands, which naturally increases water pressure. 

Suppose the pressure relief valve on the water heater is malfunctioning or the expansion tank on the water heater is defective. This can cause excess pressure in the water heater and your home’s plumbing system. Have a plumber inspect your water heater to ensure everything is functioning correctly.

If your residence is equipped with a tank-style water heater, ensuring its proper function is critical. A malfunctioning pressure relief valve or faulty expansion tank might cause excessive pressure in the water heater and your home’s plumbing system. A skilled plumber can evaluate your water heater and perform any required adjustments or repairs.

Sitting down to drink a freshly-steeped cup of tea can be quite satisfying, especially if you have grown the ingredients in your backyard in a tea garden! Herbal teas are a gentle way to include healing herbs in your everyday routine.

While they don’t have the potency that other herbal preparations have, teas can be a safe way to consume a little dose of an herb regularly throughout the day and over a long period of time.

This can benefit chronic imbalances or support more rigorous treatments for health and wellness. Whether you have a small space or a large plot of land, you can always fit in a tea garden.

Growing herbs is simple and low maintenance, and they can be used in so many ways. Your tea garden plants will move beyond rosemary, sage, and thyme to a whole host of sweet, flavourful, and deliciously decorative plants that can be harvested for tea.

There is a huge list of herbs and flowers that make a wonderful tea. Some have healing benefits, and some are just plain yummy. As a seasoned herbal tea drinker, I have a number of perennial favourites (or annual favourites, as the case may be) that I grow year after year in my personal tea garden.

Jump ahead to…

Expert Tips for Growing a Tea Garden

• Each herb has unique herbal properties. Before planting, research the benefits of your tea garden plants.
• Grow your tea garden close to the home so you can easily harvest fresh leaves and flowers for tea.
• Harvest herbs in the morning, as that’s when they have the most flavour and medicinal properties.
• Dry your herbs and store them in a tightly sealed glass jar to have on hand in the winter season.
• Use boiling water to make your tea. Avoid over-steeping, as the herbs can taste bitter.

The Best Tea Garden Plants

These are some of my favourite tea herbs that are easily grown in the home garden and the reasons why I grow them. Why not include some tea garden plants when planning what you will grow this year?

Bee Balm (Monarda)

Zones 4-9

Brew the leaves into an aromatic, medicinal tea that tastes similar to mint but milder. It is purported to combat colds and flu, and the tea is soothing on a sore throat.

Calendula (Calendula Officinalis)

Zones 9-11 (but can be grown as an annual in colder zones)

Calendula’s natural anti-inflammatory properties make it wonderful for curing a sore throat and helping heal urinary tract infections. Read more about the benefits of Calendula here.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria)

Zones 3-9

Catnip leaves and flowers can be brewed into a tea that is purported to help promote relaxation and reduce anxiety. Catnip tea tastes similar to mint but earthier and with slight citrusy notes.

Chamomile (Matricaria recutita)

Zones 3-9

Chamomile is a good go-to tea just before bedtime because it is purported to promote sleep and treat insomnia (read more on that here). It may also reduce anxiety and soothe an upset tummy.

Dandelion (Taraxacum)

Zones 3-9

Dandelions aren’t just annoying weeds; they are actually a nutrient-packed superfood! They are rich in potassium as well as Vitamins A, C, and K, and dandelion tea is often used to help treat digestive problems.

Coneflower (Echinacea)

Zones 3-9

Echinacea tea can help to boost your immunity and fight off colds and flu. Echinacea tea has a strong floral taste which many people like to pair with a sweetener like honey or stevia.

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)

Zones 6-10

Fennel tea is purported to aid in digestion and painful menstrual cramps. The tea has a delicious, slightly bitter licorice taste.

Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium)

Zones 5-9

Known as wild chamomile, feverfew is a well-known herbal flower famous for aiding headaches. Those with migraines would benefit immensely from sipping feverfew tea. It also has great anti-inflammatory properties and can help with menstrual issues.

Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa)

Zones 5-11

Be sure to choose an edible variety of hibiscus for making tea, as some are bred just to be ornamental. Hibiscus tea tastes fruity and tart. Hibiscus is rich in Vitamin C, aids digestion, and may help to lower blood pressure.

Holy Basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum)

Zones 7-10

Holy basil is full of vitamins and also contains zinc, magnesium, calcium, and iron. It is said to boost immunity, reduce stress, and promote overall health.

Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)

Zones 4-9

Lemon balm has a citrusy, slightly minty taste, making for a delicious tea. It is also thought to have stress-reducing properties, so sip this when you need to calm your mind.

Mint (Mentha)

Zones 3-11

This herb is one of the most popular for tea, and it’s no wonder why. The comforting flavour of mint tea is perfect for a hot drink on a cold day. It can help soothe a sore throat and is thought to improve sleep. There are a ton of different mint varieties out there, so you can brew all kinds of tasty teas like chocolate mint, pineapple mint, and lots more!

Pine (Pinus)

Pine needle tea may not be your go-to, but the tea itself is a very traditional way to get the herbal benefits of pine. It’s best combined with other plants on this list, such as peppermint, catnip, and thyme. Also, add honey for sweetness!

Pineapple Sage (Salvia elegans)

Zones 8-11 (but can be grown as an annual in colder zones)

Pineapple sage makes a lovely tea because it has the sweet taste of pineapple combined with the earthy flavour of sage. It also contains antioxidants, so this is a sweet treat you can feel good about putting into your body.

Rose (Rosa)

Zones 3-9

You can use rose petals and rosehips to make tea. Rose petal tea is full of Vitamin C to boost immunity and can help ease the pain of menstrual cramps. Plus, it has a lovely floral flavour. Rosehip tea has a tart, fruity flavour and is packed full of nutrients such as Vitamin C, calcium, and zinc.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Zones 6-9

Rosemary has a ton of health benefits, including helping to boost memory and mood and decrease inflammation. You can read more about rosemary’s numerous medicinal properties here. Rosemary tea is quite strong tasting on its own and is delicious when blended with other herbs such as thyme or mint.

Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana)

Zones 8+

Stevia leaves contain Vitamins C and A as well as iron, potassium, zinc, and calcium. Since the leaves are so sweet, I like to add them to other teas instead of using honey or other sweeteners. Read more on how to use stevia here.

Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica)

Zones 4-10

You can make nettle tea by grinding the leaves in a coffee grinder or by steeping the fresh or dried leaves. Most people will use nettle tea as a nourishing herbal tonic. It’s highly rich in minerals and plant protein. It has a salty, umami taste.

Frequently Asked Questions About Growing a Tea Garden

More Tea Tips

Small space? No problem! Plant your tea herbs in a strawberry pot, or turn this mosquito repelling planter into a tea garden with some of the herbs listed in the previous articles.

No garden space outside? Grow inside! You can create this vertical herb garden and harvest tea all year round.

Read this post on how to harvest and prep herbs for the perfect cup of tea every time. It is really an art, especially to get the most herbal properties from the tea.

Be sure to check out these other posts for more ways to use herbs and make tea.

My name is Maria Nieuwenhof. I grew up on a dairy farm with parents who loved flowers and grew a large vegetable garden. So when I got married it was only normal for me to do the same thing. I moved 17 years ago to a new home in Ormstown, in southeastern Québec, where I took the gardens that the previous owner had started and went to work slowly “tweeking” them to my hand. I do not have the names of many of the varieties of flowers; lots of them were given to me by my father and friends. I usually come home with something when I visit friends and their gardens!

My favorite hosta is ‘Sum and Substance’ (Hosta ‘Sum and Substance’, Zones 3–8), which has loved the wetter and cooler weather this spring.

Bearded irises (Iris hybrids, Zones 3–8) are a big part of my gardens in spring. These yellow ones have been blooming for over a month now.

I got these celandine poppies (Stylophorum diphyllum, Zones 4–8) at a garden exchange. They reseed themselves, but I try to keep them in bounds by pulling a lot out before they reseed. Bearded irises are in the background.

These oriental poppies (Papaver orientale, Zones 3–8) are blooming for the first time. I started them from seeds last year.

I also reseed this pink and white dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis, Zones 3–9). I am trying to get it to go wild at the edge of my bush. It was given to me by a patient of mine when I worked as a home-care nurse.

Here’s my vegetable garden, 2023, with Brussels sprouts and cabbages under floating row cover. I’m trying that this year because I had so many worms last year.

More bearded irises

My columbines (Aquilegia hybrids, Zones 4–9) reseed themselves all over and fill in the gaps.

Lupins (Lupinus polyphyllus, Zones 4–9) are growing in my front bed at the road, with Vanhoutte spireas (Spiraea × vanhouttei, Zones 3–8) blooming beautifully in the background.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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“I always wanted a garden,” says ceramist Melissa Goldstein of MG by Hand. (Read more about her work here.)  As a child she loved going on nature walks with her dad. Years later, she rallied the fellow tenants in her old Tribeca loft to create a communal garden on their rooftop. But until 2007 she never had a garden of her own. When a friend told her that the brownstone behind hers in Brooklyn was coming up for sale, the artist and photography consultant jumped at the chance.

There was one problem, though. The previous owner, who was too old to manage the backyard, had been getting it sprayed with pesticides to control the vegetation. “We moved in and inherited a poisoned yard,” says Goldstein. But she didn’t let that deter her. She had the soil tested at Cornell’s Cooperative Exchange and set out to repair the land. “I planted crimson clover, which adds nitrogen to the soil, and brought in carful after carful of compost that New York City was giving away at the time in Staten Island,” she recalls of some of her methods. The soil slowly began to heal. And after a few years she began planting. 

Photography by Melissa Goldstein.

She started with structure. She bought a “really beautiful boxwood” at a local nursery and began propagating cuttings by dipping them in root hormone and planting them in the ground. “I ended up with a lot of them,” she said. “They grew pretty quickly.” The boxwoods, sculpted into loose balls, dot the yard, providing moments of green among a sea of blooms. 

She also removed the chain-link fence that separated her yard from her friend-now-neighbor’s and replaced it with a living fence. She ordered seven European hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) plants from Digging Dog Nursery. She knitted them together along the 20-foot-wide property border and trained an archway so that the two families could walk through on visits. The children, especially, loved running back and forth between the two yards.

Shasta daisies, Leucanthemum x superbum, are sun-loving perennials for USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 9.

Their cheerful blossoms attract a variety of pollinators to the garden and provide an abundant supply of late-season flowers to cut and enjoy.

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Generally considered low-maintenance, Shastas benefit from pruning to reduce legginess and appreciate a moderate quantity of moisture during the growing season.

And sometimes, despite tender loving care, they fail to bloom.

Our guide to growing Shasta daisies covers all you need to know to grow these plants in your outdoor living space.

This article zeroes in on why Shastas may fail to bloom.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

1. Age

It’s best to divide Shasta daisies every two to three years to support optimal flowering. Without dividing, mature plants struggle to obtain adequate nutrients as they experience overcrowding at the crown and root level.

Over time, Shastas develop woody centers that produce fewer flowers than the surrounding younger, softer shoots.

In early spring, you can lift your plants from the soil and divide the crowns using a sharp knife. Each new clump should have multiple stems with healthy roots attached.

Discard the non-productive woody center and replant the divisions.

See our guide to dividing Shasta daisies for complete instructions.

2. Excess Nitrogen

Often, we can be too generous to our plants when we apply fertilizer.

Shasta daisies may fail to flower if the nitrogen concentration in the soil is too high.

High nitrogen levels result in excess vegetative production with many leaves and few flowers.

If your plants produce copious quantities of lush foliage and few buds, test the soil nitrogen levels with a test kit such as the Luster Leaf Rapitest, available on Amazon.

Luster Leaf Rapitest

Use a fertilizer with a nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus (NPK) ratio of 0-10-10 when the first spring shoots emerge. Additional fertilizer during the growing season is unnecessary.

Liquinox Bloom Fertilizer

Liquinox 0-10-10 Bloom is available from Amazon in gallon-size containers. It supports healthy flowering without introducing nitrogen to the soil.

3. Growth Disruption

A failure to bloom may also be the result of stressful experiences that slow growth temporarily. 

Examples include:

Using an early-spring pruning technique called the Chelsea Chop too late in the growing season for the foliage to regrow and bud.

Dividing later than early spring during the time when buds should be setting.

Foraging by herbivores, like deer and groundhogs, that chew stems, often down to the crown, causing shock and a possible failure to recover and bud in the current growing season.

A severe infestation of pests, like sapsucking aphids, that introduce diseases responsible for growth anomalies.

Don’t prune or divide later than early spring to ensure the plants have enough time to recover and resume growth. And monitor daily for signs of pests and pathogens.

4. Inadequate Sunlight

Shastas require full sun. Without it, they may produce few to no flowers.

Daisies are phototropic, meaning they turn toward the sun. When it is directly overhead, the stems are held upright beneath upturned blossoms.

However, if sunlight is scarce, the stems stretch toward what little light they sense, becoming “leggy” and bent. In this stressed state and without adequate sunlight, it’s likely that blooming will be sparse.

If your flowers are desperate for sunlight, it’s best to relocate them.

Transplant in early spring. Lift clumps and replant in well-drained, moderately fertile soil in a location with a minimum of six hours of full sun per day.

5. Oversaturation

Shastas require free-draining soil and are drought-tolerant once established. An inch of water per week, rain included, is all that’s needed to fulfill the moderate moisture requirements of L. x superbum.

Shastas are prone to root rot if they grow in waterlogged soil. Water molds in the Pythium genus can cause root systems to suffer black rot and can ultimately lead to plant death.

Visible symptoms above ground may include slow growth, mushy stems, and wilted or yellowing foliage. Stressed foliage is unlikely to produce buds.

If you observe these symptoms, lift plants from the soil and examine the roots. Cut off and discard any discolored or damaged ones and replant in free-draining soil.

If there is extensive damage, dispose of entire plants in the trash and sanitize all gardening equipment, including your shoes, to avoid spreading pathogens throughout the landscape.

Planting in well-draining soil and avoiding overwatering are necessary to inhibit pathogens that rot roots and cause plants to fail to perform as expected.

6. Timing

L. x superbum typically blooms from July to September.

Although we may sometimes see blooms earlier or later, it’s crucial to assess whether it’s the right time for plants to flower before suspecting something is amiss.

Patience is required when it comes to late-season bloomers.

7. Weather Extremes

While we can’t control the weather, we can benefit from a better understanding of the effect of extreme conditions on plants.

A prolonged dry spell and high heat may cause moisture stress, which can result in wilting and poor blooming.

Use a moisture meter to monitor your plants’ water needs. When rain isn’t in the forecast, supplement to avoid the ravages of moisture stress.

And while L. x superbum is hardy enough to withstand a snowy, cold winter underground, a late spring frost may stunt developing shoots. And an unusually early fall frost may kill developing buds before they can open.

If a cold snap is predicted, move potted plants into a shed or greenhouse and insulate outdoor Shastas with a tall cloche or fabric wrap.

Spun Bond Frost Blanket

You can purchase frost cloth by the foot from Arbico Organics.

Delightful Daisies

Now that we’ve covered seven common reasons why Shasta daisies may not flower, it’s time for you to assess what may be causing a failure to bloom in your garden and enjoy a lush flowering season to come.

If it’s late in the season, take out your garden planner and note the following proactive steps you can take to support next year’s plants.

Divide older, overcrowded plants in early spring. Relocate them to areas of the landscape that receive full sun.

When you apply fertilizer in early spring, avoid nitrogen-rich products.

Listen to the weather forecasts. Be prepared to provide supplemental water during heat waves and dry spells. And if an unusual late spring or early fall frost is predicted, insulate your plants to protect new shoots and developing buds.

Ensure that garden soil and containers drain well. Avoid overwatering to prevent soil saturation that can lead to root rot, foliar damage, and a failure to set buds.

These steps are sure to go a long way toward supporting a gorgeous flush of flowers next year.

What issues have you had with your Shasta daisies? Let us know in the comments section below!

If you found this article helpful, you may be interested to learn more about growing daisies at home in the following guides:

Hardscaping can be an integral part of a truly beautiful and functional landscape design. What is hardscaping? Essentially, it’s any man-made, non-living element of your landscape, which can range as something as simple as a garden path or extravagant as an outdoor kitchen or structure like a pergola.

 

Along with visual appeal, hardscaping can make your outdoor space more livable, which not only enhances your enjoyment of your home, but can increase its value as well. Benefits of hardscaping include:

 

• Enhancing your living space – Whether it’s a simple patio, a refreshing pool, a protective pergola or some other feature that adds to your enjoyment of your home, hardscaping allows you to create spaces that expand your living space to include your outdoor area.
• Resolving landscaping issues – A sloped yard can be a landscaping challenge, but the addition of terracing and/or a retaining wall allows for grading land into level surfaces along with preventing soil erosion and water runoff.
• Defining spaces – Privacy walls, walkways, patios, firepits, pergolas, pool areas and even simple edging help to define landscape spaces, create areas for gathering, activities, resting and establishing focal points.
• Reduces yard maintenance and water usage – Hardscaping typically replaces turf, which can require considerable amounts of water as part of its maintenance, and saves time and energy mowing, trimming and fertilizing the lawn.
• Increases home value – In addition to adding extra usable outdoor living space, over 80% of home buyers prefer properties that have outdoor entertainment areas. Combined with the added aesthetics and structural enhancements, hardscaping makes a property particularly appealing.

 

Here are some examples of types of hardscapes and the advantages they can provide to your outdoor living space:

 

Pools and pool areas – There’s nothing better than having the luxury of cooling off with a dip in your backyard pool. Pools and pool areas are natural gathering places and can be a focal point of your landscaping. We can help you create the perfect pool and surrounding space that best suits your lifestyle. You may want to consider extras like a waterfall feature, built-in seating areas or a smaller, more shallow pool extension for little ones.

 

Patios – Eighty-four percent of home buyers look for properties with existing patios, so including one in your landscaping is a smart investment. Patios can be any size, constructed from a wide variety of materials (brick, pavers, concrete, etc.). They can be as simple as a level area in which to place outdoor furniture, to something more elaborate with built-in areas for plants or water features. If space and budget allow, you can include several patios based on function (gathering/eating; relaxation/meditation; play area for children) to customize your landscape.

 

Outdoor cooking areas – Whether you’re looking for a safe, level foundation from which to grill or a layout for a complete outdoor kitchen, hardscaping can set the stage for all your outdoor cooking. We can help you create a space that can accompany a grill and eating area or something grander, like a full outdoor kitchen with running water, electricity and gas features.

 

Walkways, driveways and garden paths – A hardscape walkway helps ensure safe footing, guides foot traffic, and helps delineate landscape spaces as well as contribute to your yard’s overall aesthetic. Driveways can range from straight, simple paved areas that lead to a garage or carport, or a circular drive that becomes part of your home’s front entry, adding curb appeal as well as functionality.

 

Garden paths – perhaps as simple as some thoughtfully placed steppingstones – can encourage exploration of your gardens or property while preserving existing turf grass. Like patios, the design possibilities, colors and materials used are limited only by your imagination.

 

Pergolas, pavilions, and gazebos – If you’re looking for a structure that provides protection from the outdoor elements, a pergola, pavilion or gazebo might fulfill your need. These structures can also provide some privacy from neighbors or street traffic. Sturdier structures like pergolas and pavilions can allow for the inclusion of electricity for cooking, heating, cooling, lighting and other features so these structures can function as true outdoor rooms.

 

Retaining walls and edging – Edging along walkways, driveways, patios, gardens and lawns help to crisply define spaces for a clean, manicured landscape look. They can also be used for strictly aesthetic appeal as a design element with contrasting/complementary shapes, colors and materials. Retaining walls can be both functional and beautiful, protecting sloping yards from runoff, or leveling areas when used in a terraced landscape design. Walls and edging can help define a home’s style, from formal elegance to rustic charm.

 

Outdoor firepits/fireplaces – Gathering around a fire is something people have enjoyed for centuries! The warmth of an outdoor firepit or fireplace helps extend your outdoor living time in spring and fall, while adding beautiful illumination to warm summer evenings. (Not to mention inviting marshmallow toasting and making s’mores!).

 

Water features (ponds, fountains) – Water features are relaxing, beautiful additions to your landscape. These include fountains, waterfalls, ponds, pools, and water gardens. We can help you create a standalone water feature that serves as a focal point in your yard, such as garden fountain, or add a water feature to an existing landscaping element, such as a waterfall to your built-in pool.

 

Hardscape seating – Whether it’s a low, flat-topped wall by the pool area or a small stone bench tucked into the garden that invites you to sit and enjoy a quiet moment in nature, hardscape seating is another outdoor landscape element that combines functionality with attractive design.

 

To see a beautiful example of elegant hardscaping, view our portfolio – Backyard Getaway

Canning carrots is easier than you might think, and it’s a great way to enjoy your summer bounty all year round.

You can use fresh carrots right from your garden, or stock up on them at the farmer’s market or grocery store.

They make a quick heat-and-serve side dish for any meal, or you can use them in any recipe that calls for cooked carrots.

In this guide I will show you step by step exactly how to can carrots so you can keep them longer.

Best Types Of Carrots For Canning

You can use any type of carrot for canning, but I have found a few varieties that are the best.

Parisian Heirloom Red, Thumbelina, and the Purple Dragon are good for their extra crisp texture and more intense flavor.

Preparing Carrots For Canning

Preparing carrots for canning is simple, but a little time consuming when it comes to all the peeling and slicing.

Basically all you need to do is remove the top part with the leaves and wash the carrots, gently scrubbing them with a veggie brush to remove any dirt or debris

Then peel them with a vegetable peeler, and slice them into ½ to 1 inch rounds. After that you are ready to can them.

Related Post: How To Freeze Carrots With Or Without Blanching

Methods For Canning Carrots

There are a few ways to can your carrots, and the method you choose will come down to how much time you have, and your preference.

Hot Packing

For hot packing, you blanch the carrots in boiling water for 3-5 minutes before packing them into the jars.

The benefit of doing this is that it helps to preserve the color, texture, and flavor. The drawback is that it does take a little extra time.

Raw Packing

With the raw packing method, you simply fill your jars with the cut up carrots without flash-cooking them first. Then you add the boiling water over the top.

The benefit is that it’s faster to can your carrots. Though the drawback can be that some of the color and flavor can leach out into the brine, and the texture can end up being a bit softer.

Pressure Canning Carrots

Since carrots are a low acid vegetable, it’s essential to use a pressure canner to process your jars. This is the only safe way to ensure all of the harmful bacteria is killed.

Water bath canning in boiling water is not a safe method to use, since it cannot get the carrots hot enough.

Tools & Equipment Needed

Below is a list of everything you’ll need for canning your own carrots at home. You can see my full list of canning equipment here.

How To Store Canned Carrots

Storing canned carrots is simple. Once your jars room temperature, place them in a cool dry location, such as a pantry or cupboard.

It’s a good idea to check that each of the lids has a tight seal before storing the jars. To do that, remove the band and press on the center of the lid. If it doesn’t move, then it’s sealed.

If the lid moves at all, then place those jars into the fridge and eat them up right away.

Before storing them, be sure to label them with the date using either dissolvable labels, or write on the lids with a permanent marker.

How Long Do Canned Carrots Last?

Canned carrots have a long shelf life, and will last up to one year when properly stored.

Before eating them, ensure the lid still has a tight seal and discard any that have popped.

Once you open the jars you can keep them in the fridge, and plan to use them up within 3-5 days.

Related Post: How To Plant & Grow Carrots From Seed

FAQs

Below are some of your most common questions about canning carrots, along with my answers.

Do carrots need to be pressure canned?

Yes, carrots do need to be pressure canned. They are a very low acidic food, and a boiling water bath cannot get them hot enough to kill all of the harmful pathogens that may be present.

Can you raw pack carrots for canning?

Yes, you can raw pack carrots for canning. This process is easy and convenient and tends to work very well for carrots. Though some of the flavor and color can end up leaching into the brine, and the texture could be a little softer than it would if you blanched them first.

What is the best way to can carrots?

The best way to can carrots is to use a pressure canner. Whether you pack them raw or blanch them first is really up to you, as either method works great. However, flash-cooking them first with the hot packing method can help to preserve the color, flavor, and texture better.

Can you can carrots without peeling them first?

You could can carrots without peeling them first. However, they tend to get stringy, and could also end up with an undesirable flavor if you leave the peels on. Because of this, my recommendation is to always peel them first.

Can carrots be water bath canned?

No, carrots cannot be water bath canned because they are low acid veggies. A water bath canner can’t get them hot enough to kill all of the potentially harmful bacteria.

If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More Food Canning Posts

Share your tips for canning carrots in the comments section below.

Recipe & Instructions

This is an interesting possibility:

I recently revealed that the so-called “BRICS+” countries will announce the creation of a new currency at its annual leaders’ summit conference on August 22–24.

This will be the biggest upheaval in international finance since 1971. It’s taking direct aim at the dollar.

Quite simply, the world is unprepared for this geopolitical shock wave.

It appears likely that the new BRICS+ currency will be linked to a weight of gold. This plays to the strengths of BRICS members Russia and China. These countries are the two largest gold producers in the world, and are ranked sixth and seventh respectively among the 100 nations with gold reserves.

One difficulty in considering the impact of the new BRICS currency on the dollar is that all dollar indexes compare currency to currency. But that’s meaningless since the dollar, euro and sterling could all suffer from a loss of confidence at the same time.

If gold goes from $2,000 to $10,000 per ounce, that is better understood as an 80% devaluation of the dollar: from 0.0005 ounces per dollar to 0.0001 ounces per dollar. That’s a collapse of confidence but you’ll miss it if you’re looking at euros or yen.

Those currencies will all be collapsing at the same time.

(KEEP READING HERE) 

Yesterday Rachel and I were at the grocery store and noticed that canisters of Quaker Old Fashioned Oatmeal are now over $10 apiece.

We all know there are some serious problems with the dollar; however, its collapse has been prevented thus far by it being the global reserve currency, as well as being backed by the big stick of the US government.

Can you imagine money that is actually backed by something other than debt and empty promises? It wasn’t that long ago that it was. And it will be again.

If the BRICS+ nations are successful in creating a viable, non-weaponized alternative to the dollar, look out below.

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Vaccinum vitis-idaea var. minus and var. vaccinum vitis-idaea 

Most people outside of Scandinavia and Russia have their first experience with lingonberries in the form of jam or jelly, a far cry from growing their own.

I know lots of people who initially stumbled onto the stuff when they picked up a jar at that huge assemble-it-yourself furniture retailer that’s based in Sweden.

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That’s actually how I first tasted them.

I was in Sweden to interview an executive for said retailer and they stuffed us visiting journalists full of meatballs, toast skagen (skagenrora), and lingonberry jam for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

To be honest, I wasn’t that impressed. It tasted pretty much like any other berry jam to me.

Then we had dinner at a fancy Michelin-star restaurant on the coast of Copenhagen. They served pork with a lingonberry relish that was tart, a bit sweet, and spiced with goodies like allspice, juniper, and thyme.

And that’s when I got it. Lingonberries weren’t just some cranberry substitute that needs pounds of sugar to become edible. They’re complex, tangy, and perfectly balanced somewhere between sweet and sour.

While they’re often compared to cranberries, lingonberries have more natural sugar and a slight sweetness to balance the tart flavor.

When I learned that they grow well in some shade, I was totally sold. I, like a lot of people, have limited full sun exposure in my yard. When I find a food crop to stick into a shady spot, I’m all over it.

I’ve found these plants to be pretty much untroubled by pests and disease, adept at spreading around without becoming invasive, and extremely productive without needing much in the way of maintenance.

The only caveat is that you need to live in a cool region to grow them.

So, if the only experience you have with lingonberries is in jam, prepare to be immersed in their magical world. Here’s what we’re about to go over:

Honestly, now my mouth is watering and I need to go make myself some toast with lingonberry jam, which is much better homemade than store bought, I might add.

Since my tummy is rumbling, we’d better get started!

What Is a Lingonberry?

Because they’re a bit challenging to grow and the berries aren’t as sweet as blueberries or raspberries, lingonberries just aren’t that popular outside of northern Europe.

There are two types grown for their fruits: the North American or wild lingonberry Vaccinum vitis-idaea var. minus (or subsp. minus) and the European or cultivated lingonberry V. vitis-idaea var. vitis-idaea.

In the wild, these plants grow in Scandinavia, Russia, Canada, the Pacific Northwest, and Alaska.

Both varieties are small evergreen ground covers closely related to heath and heather plants (Erica spp.) and both might go by the name cowberry, mountain cranberry, redberry, or partridgeberry.

Typically, wild plants are under about eight inches tall and spread two feet wide. Cultivated plants can grow twice as tall and wide.

The plants are covered in ovoid, leathery leaves with a darker green upper side and a lighter green lower surface. The leaves look extremely similar to kinnikinnick foliage except for a small notch at the top center.

The pink or white bell-shaped flowers appear in the spring and cultivated types might have a second flush in the late summer or early fall.

The flowers on the North American variety are about half the size of the European variety.

The berries that follow are small and red with a pronounced acidic bite. However, if you leave them on the plant after a freeze, they will soften and develop more sugar.

This is a cold-loving plant, as you can tell by its native habitat. It won’t survive in areas with sweltering hot summers, but -40°F won’t faze it – for the most part. If a hard freeze happens when the berries are young or the flowers are on the plant, it can kill them.

Cultivation and History

Lingonberries aren’t exactly a popular plant in cultivation, with under 100 acres in production worldwide as of 2006.

About a quarter of all commercially grown plants are in the Pacific Northwest, with some grown in Maine, Vermont, and Wisconsin. The rest are cultivated in Scandinavia and Russia.

Indigenous people in the parts of the world known today as the US and Canada where these plants are native relied on the dried berries as a winter food source. In Europe, they’ve been in cultivation since at least the Middle Ages.

Propagation

Whether you buy a transplant or dig up a bit of a friend’s plant, lingonberries are easy to propagate at home. Most are propagated commercially through stem cuttings, so we’ll talk about that first.

From Stem Cuttings

If you’ve ever rooted a softwood cutting before, then you know how this works. It’s particularly easy with lingonberries.

In early spring, look for a four-inch piece of young growth. The wood should be flexible, not hard and rigid.

Cut it off at a 45-degree angle and remove any leaves from the bottom third.

Fill a four-inch container with water-retentive potting soil. Place the cutting in the medium a third of the way deep.

Water the soil well and place the container in an area with bright, indirect light indoors or dappled shade outdoors. Keep the soil moist and let Mother Nature work her magic.

By early fall, you should see new growth. If not, your cutting didn’t take and you’ll need to try again next year.

Take that healthy new plant and harden it off gradually by placing it in the area where you intend to grow it, for an hour on the first day. Then, put it back in its original protected area.

The next day, give it two hours in its new spot.

Add an hour each subsequent day until you’ve done this for seven days then transplant as described below.

From Rhizome Divisions

Lingonberries spread via underground rhizomes. Separating a runner from the parent plant is an easy, quick way to make new plants.

Just dig up your plant, leaving about a three-inch margin around the perimeter. The roots aren’t deep, so you want to dig out wide rather than going down too far. Six inches to a foot deep should do it.

Once you’ve unearthed your treasure, knock or wash away as much dirt as you can and examine the roots. You should see lots of areas where the roots connect to the above-ground stems.

Snip away a few sections of roots with a stem attached. Replant the parent plant and transplant the individual sections as described below.

From Transplants

In the spring after the last predicted frost date, dig holes 18 inches apart and three times as wide as the growing container.

Work an equal part of well-rotted compost into the soil that you removed.

Remove the plants from their containers and gently tease apart the roots.

Place each one in its hole so that it’s sitting at the same height as it was before, and fill in around with the amended soil. The roots should be positioned right below the soil.

How to Grow

While lingonberries can grow and fruit in partial sun, they will do best in full sun.

However, if you live somewhere that experiences hot summers, some protection from the afternoon heat is more important than full exposure.

Lingonberries need acidic soil. Anything below a pH of 5.8 is adequate, but ideally they need something around 4.5 to 5.5.

If your soil is too neutral or alkaline, you have a few options. One is to acidify your soil, and the other is to plant in a raised bed filled with acidic soil or amended soil.

The soil should be well-draining sandy loam, which is another reason that a raised bed might be ideal.

Yes, these plants are closely related to cranberries, but they don’t need boggy soil. The shallow roots should be kept consistently moist.

An inch of mulch made from straw, leaf or bark mulch, or compost will help those shallow roots stay moist.

A short period of drought or flooding won’t kill your plants, but do your best to avoid this because it will certainly stress them.

Drip irrigation is tailor-made for lingonberries, gently soaking the soil surface. You can use overhead irrigation, but it’s less ideal.

Don’t allow the soil to dry out at all. Not only will it cause drought stress, but it increases salt concentration in the soil, and lingonberries hate salt.

Some plants are happy to muscle out other cultivated plants or weeds to maintain their spot, but not lingonberries. They will meekly concede to anything that attempts to take over, so you need to do the work of keeping their area clear of weeds and nearby plants.

Feed with a low-nitrogen fertilizer in the spring and fall, but only if you haven’t seen new growth or you had a small crop. You should be getting about a pound and a half of berries from each plant.

Otherwise, skip the feeding unless a soil test indicates that your ground is deficient in something. Overfeeding can actually cause dieback and promotes root rot.

Don’t use a fertilizer that contains sodium or chloride because lingonberries are sensitive to both.

The plants can take up to seven years to mature, so don’t worry if you don’t have a full harvest until that time.

In order to produce large yields, you should grow a pollinating cultivar. You can get away without this, so long as you have two plants of the same variety, but a pollinating cultivar of a different type will improve production. We’ll talk about some good options shortly.

The flowers rely on pollinators like bees, butterflies, and flies. Wind doesn’t spread the pollen effectively.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full to partial sun in cool regions. Partial shade is tolerated in hot regions.
• Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
• Only feed if plants appear to have reduced production or a soil test indicates you should.

Pruning and Maintenance

Don’t prune young plants at all. Let them grow for at least five years unchecked.

Lingonberries bloom on one-year-old wood at the tips of the branches, so any pruning should be done with the goal of increasing the total number of shoots.

Commercial growers mow half of their plants down each year, but at home, just snip half of the branches about halfway back each winter to encourage new shoots to form.

Don’t forget to keep weeds far away. Seriously, these plants can’t stand up to weeds.

Plants produce for over 20 years with proper care.

Cultivars to Select

It’s much easier to find lingonberry cultivars in places like Scandinavia and Belgium, but you can find them in North America if you keep an eye out.

Lingonberry Plant

For instance, Fast Growing Trees carries the European species.

Here are some of the best options if you’re interested in growing a specific cultivar.

All of these are bred from the European variety since the North American species hasn’t been extensively cultivated and marketed (yet?):

Ammerland

This cultivar has been around for a long, long time because it’s extremely vigorous and produces a lot of fruit. It will grow up to 14 inches tall with lots of large berries.

Entsegan

This vigorous grower produces at least a pound and a half of mild flavored berries on a 15-inch-tall plant.

Erntedank

‘Erntedank’ can be relied on to produce two crops per year on a 16-inch-tall plant. The berries are petite but flavorful.

Ida

‘Ida’ produces up to two pounds of large, dark red berries on a mere seven-inch-tall plant. It’s the most productive cultivar available to home growers.

Moscovia

Quick-growing ‘Moscovia’ (aka ‘Masovia’) will reach three feet in width and 15 inches tall in just a few years. It’s highly productive with mild berries.

Red Pearl

The fruits on ‘Red Pearl’ are mild and appear earlier in the year than most other cultivars. This cultivar is often used as a pollinator rather than for production because it’s low-yielding.

Root rot resistant, it grows to 15 inches tall.

Regal

‘Regal’ ripens early in the year with small, tangy fruits. However, it doesn’t produce a lot of them, which is why it’s often used as a pollinator or an ornamental.

Sanna

While ‘Sanna’ stays short, rarely breaching six inches tall, it produces a lot of fruits in the summer.

The fall crop is a bit smaller. It grows to about nine inches tall and the berries are medium in size.

Scarlet

‘Scarlet’ is a better option for those looking to keep a pollinator or an ornamental around.

It blooms profusely, but the berry production is middling. It grows to eight inches tall with medium-sized fruits.

Splendor

This plant is large, up to 18 inches tall, with medium-sized berries. It takes a few years to get going, but once it does, it produces a large yield.

The blossoms can tolerate light frost so you don’t risk losing your crop to a late freeze, and it’s resistant to root rot.

Susi

While this 10-inch plant will produce respectable summer and fall harvests,‘Susi’ (aka ‘Sussi’) doesn’t yield a lot of its medium-sized berries. Best used as a pollinator, it’s resistant to root rot.

Managing Pests and Disease

Nothing to see here. Move along.

Okay, obviously no species is going to be completely pest and disease free all of the time, but a properly situated and cared for lingonberry will rarely have issues.

Root rot is really the only major problem you might encounter.

Root rot can have two causes: the roots may be sitting in too much water for too long and they simply start to rot, or they may be infected by oomycetes in the Phytophthora genus.

Phytophthora needs an abundance of water to thrive, unsurprising since oomycetes are related to algae, and can be avoided if you take care not to overwater.

If rot is present, the aboveground parts of the plant will droop and wilt.

Since you can’t tell what’s causing the problem just by digging up the plants and looking at the soggy roots, you’ll need to treat them as though we’re assuming the pathogens are present.

Mycostop Biofungicide

Pick up some Mycostop at Arbico Organics in a five- or 25-gram pack and mix it according to the manufacturer’s directions. Treat the plant every two or three weeks for at least eight weeks.

I swear by this stuff for treating root rot. It has saved several of my plants.

Harvesting

Depending on where you live, mature lingonberries may produce two crops each year. The first one will be ready in midsummer and the second in mid-fall, if the conditions are right.

The fall crop usually produces fewer, larger berries than the summer crop.

In northern latitudes with short growing seasons, you’ll probably only see a midsummer crop.

The fruits are ready to harvest when they are dark red and firm but not hard. If they aren’t completely red, allow the berries to ripen longer.

Use a blueberry rake to harvest or hand-pick.

Huckleberry Comb Berry Harvester

This gorgeous wood version from Garrett Wade is made in Germany and would be perfect for your lingonberry harvesting adventures.

You can leave the berries on the plant until after a frost and they’ll become sweeter, but you’ll want to protect the plant from herbivores if you opt to do this.

Preserving

Lingonberries are most often preserved rather than eaten fresh. They can be dried, turned into fruit leather, pickled, or of course, made into jams and jellies.

If you don’t have a go-to recipe already, visit our sister site Foodal for a simple jam or jelly recipe to start with. Try adding cloves, nutmeg, salt, cinnamon, and allspice to taste.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Though they’re small, weighing under 0.45 grams each, lingonberries are packed with antioxidants, anthocyanins, and flavonoids.

They’re used to create liqueurs and wine. While lingonberries of course work well cooked with some sugar to make all kinds of desserts, I’m a savory gal and you know I’ve figured out how to make a lingonberry relish like that one that made me into a convert.

If you want to give it a go, combine eight fresh bay leaves, 10 cloves, 12 juniper berries, five thyme sprigs, and a small sprig of rosemary. Tie everything up in a cheesecloth packet.

Now, grab a six-inch stalk of lovage with leaves attached and chop it finely.

Mix it with one diced apple and one diced peach, nectarine, or apricot. Add in two tablespoons of diced shallots. Saute in a bit of vegetable oil until soft.

Add lingonberries, the spice packet, and a cup of water. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes until everything is soft but not mushy. Salt to taste.

Serve it on top of your choice of protein or even veggies. I tried it on fried tofu the other day and it was fantastic.

Okay, my stomach is growling again!

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Evergreen fruiting woody shrub	Flower/Foliage Color:	Purple, yellow/green
Native to:	Russia, Scandinavia, North America	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	3-9	Tolerance:	Drought, deep freezes, flooding
Season:	Evergreen, summer and fall crop	Soil Type:	Rich loam
Exposure:	Full sun to part shade	Soil pH:	4.5-5.5
Time to Maturity:	Up to 7 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	Up to 2 feet	Attracts:	Pollinators
Planting Depth:	Same as growing container (transplants)	Companion Planting:	Blueberries, bunchberries, hydrangeas, rhododendrons
Height:	Up to 18 inches	Avoid Planting With:	Cacti, rosemary, sage, succulents
Spread:	Up to 4 feet	Family:	Ericaceae
Growth Rate:	Slow	Genus:	Vaccinium
Water Needs:	Moderate	Species:	Vitis-idaea
Common Pests and Diseases:	Root rot	Variety:	Minus, vitis-idaea

Light Up Your Garden with Lingonberries

Lingonberries are such attractive plants that many people grow them solely as ornamentals. Isn’t it nice that you can also eat them? And they’re delicious!

So, share with us how you plan to use your plants. Are you going to make Grandma’s lingonberry jam recipe? Or do you have something else in mind? Let us know all about it in the comments.

Then, if you’d like to expand your gardening repertoire, there are some other types of berries that you might want to think about planting. Check out the following guides next:

Collaborative post

Searching for a new home is a highly involved task, and one that can cause a great deal of stress. With the market moving in mysterious ways, and with mortgage rates causing concern amongst homeowners, it’s certainly an interesting time to buy a home.

There are some evergreen considerations that prospective buyers should keep in mind, and also some new factors to consider. With that in mind, what should you be looking for when choosing a new home?

Location

Perhaps the single most important part of your house-buying decision is location. In a general sense, location can have major repercussions in terms of property price and ease of purchase. Areas with good transport links and highly-rated schools are more likely to experience high demand than less well-connected areas, and as such may see significant price appreciation in comparison to other neighbourhoods.

Developing areas are a strong contender for finding reasonably-priced homes. A relatively new neighbourhood with new-build properties and a developing infrastructure can be a good find, as prices will only increase as the neighbourhood develops.

Size and layout

The next major decision is the shape and size of the homes you are considering. Space is always at a premium, and everyone would naturally like room to expand. However, space comes at a significant price, particularly in urban areas.

This is especially true when it comes to outdoor spaces. These can be costly, depending on where you are looking, and could significantly skew the results of property searches within your chosen budget.

As for the property itself, size does not always translate to space. Understanding the floor plans, and how room shapes feel in person, is key to knowing what you are getting into with property layouts.

Condition and maintenance

When you start viewing properties, it’s important to keep their condition at the forefront of your mind. There are trade-offs that can be made with regard to renovations and decoration, but there are some problems that are simply too much hassle. If you notice any symptoms of rising or structural damp on a viewing, for example, this could be an indication that the costs of repairing the home would be significant.

Energy efficiency

Finally, a new concern for first-time buyers emerges in the form of energy efficiency. Between the high cost of domestic energy and the growing climate crisis, energy-efficient homes are more important than ever. It’s a good idea to consider homes with efficient alternatives to conventional central heating systems, or generally with a high EPC rating.

Choosing a new home is an extremely personal decision, even with certain objective factors such as property condition factored into the equation. You are the only person that can know if a property is right for you, but considering the facts can help you arrive at your decision with more confidence.

Collaborative post

When the rain pours and the runoff water goes to waste, you might wonder whether rainwater from the roof is safe for your plants. It’s definitely a good idea to minimise water wastage, but is water that’s been in contact with your home’s roof safe for edible and ornamental plants?

The answer depends on what your roof is made of. A range of roofing materials are used on residential homes. Some contaminate the water and some, such as asphalt, are inert. Naturally, you want to be sure that the rainwater is safe for use in the garden. 

Even if you can’t use roof runoff to water your plants, it’s still fine for cleaning cars and outdoor furniture. Also, understanding roof leak emergencies is important to make sure that all the water is directed to the storage barrels.

Potential contaminants in roof runoff water 

Studies have shown that rainwater from the roof contains contaminants such as:

• Copper
• Zinc
• Lead
• E. coli bacteria 
• Pesticides
• Poly-cyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs)
• Other pathogens
• Animal droppings

Depending on the roof material, the runoff water could also contain other contaminants.

These contaminants in roof runoff water are usually available in low quantities. With regards to watering your plants, there’s a low element of risk. Do note however that roof runoff water is not safe for drinking.

Is rainwater from an asphalt roof safe for plants?

Asphalt roofs are common, and most people prefer them for their durability. The inert nature of asphalt means it does not react with water. Thus, it does not leach contaminants into the water. Generally, water collected from this type of roof is considered safe for irrigating your garden plants.

Most shingle roofs are made of fibreglass and asphalt granules, and are considered safe when it comes to using water runoff.

If you have a galvanised iron roof, the water will definitely contain more zinc than that from a shingle or asphalt roof. Iron roofs have a zinc coating to prevent rusting, and the zinc can contaminate the water. 

How to make roof water safe for vegetables

Clean water is a scarce commodity in many parts of the world. One way to make your garden and home sustainable is to collect rainwater whenever possible. The norm is to collect rainwater from the roof in water butts, then use it in the garden. 

If the roof is built with common roofing materials, the water is usually considered safe for edible plants. The contaminants in the water usually occur in minimal quantities, which shouldn’t harm your plants. However, before using the water in your garden, a soil test is recommended, because excess zinc causes toxicity in plants.

Here are a few things you can do to make roof runoff water safe for watering your vegetables:

1. Clean the water butt. Always keep water butts clean, and covered with a lid.
2. Clean the gutters. The water runs off the roof and pours into the gutter, where it then flows into the barrel. Gutters can carry a lot of dirt and debris, which will in turn make the water dirty.
3. Filter the water before it gets to the water butt. Filtering the water won’t remove metals, but it will prevent debris from getting into the water butt.

How to use roof runoff water on your vegetables

Follow these watering tips when using runoff water on your edible plants:

1. Don’t use overhead irrigation. Instead, try drip irrigation, which ensures that the water does not splash onto the leaves and fruits.
2. When harvest time is a few weeks away, stop using runoff water.
3. Rinse fruit and vegetables in clean tap water before eating.

Choosing the right container for roof water

Not every barrel will be good enough for your roof water. The recommended option is an opaque water butt. The lack of light is necessary to prevent algae growth.

Ideally, you should fit some sort of filter to your water butt to stop debris getting in. This will also reduce the need for cleaning.

You also need to fit a lid to your water butt; again, to keep debris and light out.

Conclusion

Conserving water for use in the garden is a great way to minimise water usage, but you need to make sure that the water is not contaminated. By testing for zinc, keeping gutters and water storage containers clean, and watering carefully, you can put rainwater to good use and do your bit to conserve this precious resource.

Collaborative post

Transforming your home into a B&B (or bed and breakfast) can be a challenging yet rewarding experience. In order to make it a successful move, careful planning and research is needed.

If you’re confident that using your home to host paying guests is the right choice for you, here are the key things you need to consider when transforming your home into holiday accommodation.

Plan for the seasons

It’s worth thinking about how you’ll manage things from one season to the next. Last summer saw the busiest summer holiday season for years, and this summer is shaping up to be just as popular with UK holidaymakers. As so many people are booking trips within the UK, it’s likely that you’ll see plenty of bookings once you’re up and running. This is especially true if your B&B is in a holiday hotspot.

What that means is that you’ll need to fully prepare your new business venture for this flurry of interest. You should also plan for when things are likely to be quieter; this is a good time to carry out repairs and focus on marketing your property.

Local laws and regulations

As well as planning for changes in the volume of bookings across the year, you’ll need to think about the legalities. Familiarise yourself with the local laws and regulations regarding operating a B&B in your area.

Some regions may have specific zoning restrictions or licensing requirements to which you must adhere. It’s essential to understand the legal obligations and ensure that you meet all necessary criteria before you open the doors to your B&B.

Cater to your guests

Consider the type of guest that you want to attract to your B&B. Are you targeting tourists, business travellers or a specific niche market?

Understanding your target audience will help you to tailor your services and marketing strategies to meet their needs and expectations – and ultimately increase bookings.

Compare local pricing

You should definitely take some time to research the local market. Identifying the rates of other B&Bs in your area will allow you to keep your rates competitive and reasonable.

Consider factors such as location, amenities and the level of service provided by other B&Bs to work out a fair price for your own offering.

Create a business plan

Developing a comprehensive business plan is vital for the success of your B&B. It will help you to outline your goals, target market, financial projections and marketing strategies.

A solid business plan will empower you to stay focused, make informed decisions and secure financing if needed.

Legal preparations

Ensure that you have the necessary legal protections in place before opening your B&B.

• Tax and accounting – consult an accountant to understand your tax obligations as a business owner and how to keep accurate financial records. Being organised from the start will save you headaches down the road.

• Permits and licences – check with your local authorities to see if you need any permits or licences to operate a B&B in your area. This may include health and safety inspections, food-handling permits or specific licences for serving alcohol.

Prepare your property

You’ll then need to think about how many rooms your B&B will have, and ensure that you can meet regulations regarding the likes of fire safety and electrical inspections. Your guests’ safety should always be a top priority.

Also ask yourself if your B&B is accessible for guests with disabilities. Making appropriate modifications or providing accessible facilities will broaden your potential customer base and show that you care about your guests’ needs.

Once you’ve covered all of these areas related to transforming your home into a B&B, you can start taking the bookings!

To deadhead or not to deadhead—that is the question.

Perhaps you’re new to gardening or maybe you have some new plants you’re not familiar with in your garden, and you want to know, do you need to deadhead? The answer is, it depends.

Deadheading is the process of cutting off spent blooms. That in itself is simple. It gets complicated because different plants have different needs. And gardeners have different needs. Deadheading is highly dependent on the type of plant and the type of gardener.

Featured photograph by John Merkl for Gardenista, from Gardening 101: How to Prune Roses.

Why should you deadhead?

• To promote a new flush of flowers. Roses, tickseed, coneflower, and delphinium are just a few of the perennial flowers that that will have a second round of blooms when you deadhead. Most annuals, like marigolds, sages and zinnias, will also continue to send out flowers if deadheaded.
• To redirect the plant’s energy from seed-making to growing more flowers, roots, and leaves. Sometimes you want a stronger plant, and you want the plant to focus on building a stronger root system.
• To prevent the plant from going to seed. Sometimes you don’t want more of the same plant.

When should you not deadhead?

• If you want more of the same plants! Columbine self-seeds with abandon. They are a short-lived perennial, and their self seeding allows them to spread in your garden.
• If you have biennials, and you want them to complete their two year life cycle. The first year is all leaves; the second year, the plant produces a flower and then dies. Foxglove is an example. Allowing it to go to seed will yield more foxgloves in the following years.
• If you want to provide food for the birds. Coneflowers are a favorite of goldfinches. They are late nesters, which aligns with when the coneflower seed heads are ripe in late summer.
• If you want to provide food for wildlife during the cold months. In the late summer and early fall, leave the seed heads for food for wildlife over the winter months.

Whether you deadhead or not, is a mix of personal choice and the type of plant. A bit of research can help you figure out which is best for your garden.

See also:

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Today’s photos are from Jolene, who is sharing the beautiful garden that her mother, Tina Iosca, has created. We’ve been lucky enough to visit this beautiful garden before: The Secret Garden.

It’s another gorgeous garden at my parent’s house this year. My mother is an absolutely brilliant artist, and everything she touches turns to beauty. This is by far her greatest work. Her container gardening is stunning, as she doesn’t have as much landscape to plant in. She lives in Coatesville, Pennsylvania. She is a primitive antique dealer. Her house was built in 1740.

She loves topiaries and underplanting them with a variety of whimsical flowers.

These photos are from her garden tour.

Countless containers combining neatly trimmed topiary with more wild-growing annuals make a magical space.

Trailing lobelia (Lobelia erinus, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) makes a cloud of flowers under this perfectly pruned topiary sphere.

Carefully planted and combined containers can make a whole garden out of a space.

Bright yellow-green sedum (Sedum ‘Angelina’, Zones 4–8) and impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) bring brilliant color to the bottom of this pot.

Each container is different—some are full of flowers, others are simple studies in shades of green and texture. The variety keeps this display looking dynamic and exciting.

A container shaped like a face has a cloud of trailing lobelia above it.

These tall foxgloves (Digitalis purpurea, Zones 3–8) have romantic, classic cottage-garden blooms.

A magical space

This is the house, built in 1740, that is the setting for this beautiful garden.

If you want to see more, check out Tina’s Instagram: @nunziatinaiosca

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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If you’ve ever walked into a plant nursery, especially one in your nearest big box home improvement or farm and garden store, you may have encountered some not-so-good-looking celosias.

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With their unique and captivating flower heads, these vibrant, eye-catching plants can sometimes appear wilted, faded, or even on the brink of death.

The sight can be disheartening, especially if you’re a fan of these stunning ornamentals.

But fear not, for there are reasons behind the celosia plant’s untimely demise, and understanding them can help you to prevent such unfortunate outcomes!

In this article, we will talk about the various factors that contribute to the decline of these plants, shedding light on the causes behind their withering and offering valuable insights to keep them thriving.

Whether you’re a passionate gardener or a casual flower enthusiast, join us as we explore the common reasons for celosia plant death and discover how to ensure their longevity and vibrancy in your garden.

If you are interested in learning more about growing these cool, crazy, and colorful specimens, check out our celosia growing guide.

Now, let’s look into the top reasons why celosia plants may die.

9 Reasons Why Celosia Plants Die

1. Botrytis Blight

Celosia is susceptible to Botrytis blight, caused by the fungal pathogen Botrytis cinerea. This disease is commonly referred to as gray mold or gray rot.

It causes death to the above-ground parts, including the leaves, stems, and flowers.

The flowers and buds will turn brown or develop abnormally. Flowers may have brown and irregular flecks on them, and soft brown spots will appear on the aerial parts of your celosia after a cool, damp period.

If your celosia has contracted this disease, it can significantly damage the affected tissues.

If you notice your celosia has large numbers of dusty, fuzzy, gray spores, it could be a strong indication of this infection as well.

These spores are produced on decaying plant material, such as wilted flowers or damaged leaves.

These spores can easily spread through air currents, splashing water, or physical contact, so if you have any nearby, they can affect other healthy plants around your infected one.

2. Cold Damage

Celosia is considered a summer-blooming annual in most climates in the US. When the first fall frost comes, it is usually the sign that the season has almost come to an end for these plants.

They’re generally sensitive to frost and they will experience damage when exposed to freezing temperatures.

The leaves and tender growth are typically first to be affected. Cold-damaged tissue will turn brown or black and shrivel.

Sometimes the first frost is not enough to damage the whole plant, but after a few frosts or a hard freeze, Mother Nature will eventually take its course and it will die.

Exposure to frost causes ice crystals to form within the plant tissue, damaging the cells.

If your celosia has frost damage, it may experience discoloration, wilting, stunted growth, leaf and stem necrosis, and flower and bud damage.

When celosia are exposed to cold temperatures slightly higher than those when frost is present, they can still experience stunted growth, discoloration, leaf curling, reduced flowering, and a general decline.

Since these are heat-loving plants, they prefer to stay within a comfortable range of 60 to 75°F.

To ensure the health and vitality of your celosia, it is important to wait until after the last frost has passed before planting them outdoors.

3. Leaf Spot

Various fungal and bacterial pathogens can cause leaf spots, or small, dark-colored lesions on the leaves.

The fungal pathogen Alternaria alternata typically forms circular or irregularly-shaped spots with brown or black coloration.

Cercospora is another fungal pathogen that causes leaf spots which develop a center that turns tan, or gray to brown spots with purple or brown borders.

Over time they can enlarge and affected patches become irregular and angular in shape.

Phyllosticta fungal pathogens create small, circular spots that can be beige, gray, brown, or black with a brownish or reddish border.

The spots can vary in size and have the potential to become quite large.

Xanthomonas is a bacterial pathogen that causes angular lesions with a water-soaked appearance of brownish to black coloration with a distinct yellow halo.

4. Overwatering

Overwatering celosias can lead to their decline. Too much moisture can cause the roots to become waterlogged and suffocated.

This can compromise the plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients, causing wilting, yellowing, and eventual death.

Overwatering can also lead to poor soil aeration, reduced oxygen availability, and nutrient imbalances, compromising your plant’s health.

It is not solely the overwatering itself that causes them to die, it is often the combination of the excessive moisture and subsequent infection by pathogens that can lead to your celosia dying, which we’ll go into more detail a bit later in the section on root rot.

Celosia can also experience a condition called edema, which occurs when there is an imbalance in water uptake and transpiration. The cells within the plant tissue become filled with excessive water, forming blister-like lesions on the leaves.

Over time, the affected cells can rupture or collapse, causing tissue damage and cell death.

Edema is often associated with excessive moisture levels in the soil and high humidity levels in the surrounding environment.

5. Pests

Celosia are vulnerable to various pests, including spider mites, whiteflies, rabbits, aphids, and slugs, which can all cause significant damage and potentially lead to the death of the plant.

Spider mites are tiny arachnids that feed on the sap, causing yellowing, speckled leaves. Leaving webbing in their wake, they can multiply rapidly, infesting the entire plant if left untreated.

Whiteflies are small insects that also suck the sap from the leaves, causing wilting, yellowing, and stunted growth. They secrete honeydew, attracting mold and fungal diseases.

Rabbits are known to nibble on tender foliage and flowers, causing severe damage or even complete defoliation.

Aphids are sap-sucking insects that reproduce quickly and can distort leaves, potentially leading to stunted growth. They also exude honeydew and may transmit viral diseases.

Slugs are nocturnal pests that feed on the leaves, leaving behind large holes and slime trails.

Repeated feeding by these pests in severe infestations can weaken your celosia, making it more susceptible to diseases and ultimately leading to its demise.

6. Powdery Mildew

Celosias are susceptible to powdery mildew. If yours is affected, you will see a powdery, white, or grayish coating on the leaves, stems, and flowers.

Various species of Erysiphe and Odium fungi may cause this disease and favorable environmental conditions include high humidity, low air circulation, and moderate temperatures.

The fungus forms a superficial growth on the surface of the foliage, extracts nutrients, and weakens the plant.

In severe cases, your celosia will experience distorted or stunted growth, yellow or browning of leaves, and premature leaf drop.

However, it’s worth noting that powdery mildew doesn’t often lead to death except in extreme cases.

You can learn more about powdery mildew in our guide.

7. Root-Knot Nematodes

Root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.) can also affect celosia.

These microscopic roundworms infest the roots of celosia, feeding and reproducing within the root tissues. This leads to the formation of characteristic galls or knots on the roots.

The presence of root-knot nematodes can lead to stunted growth, yellowing of leaves, and an overall decline in health.

Celosia plants can exhibit reduced vigor and decreased flower production.

Root-knot nematodes can persist in the garden for extended periods and they may be introduced to the garden through infected plant material, contaminated soil, or water sources.

Overcrowded and poorly draining growing conditions help them to multiply and spread.

8. Rot and Damping Off

Phytophthora root rot is a soil-borne fungal disease caused by species of Phytophthora, a type of oomycete or water mold.

If infected, your celosia would experience wilting, rapid yellowing, and softening roots that will give way to the collapse of the root system in young specimens.

During this process, the roots become weakened and unable to absorb nutrients and water from the soil efficiently. This will contribute to your celosia’s decline.

Pythium species are another type of oomycete pathogens that may affect your celosia, causing stem rot. Infections are evidenced by wilting, yellowing of leaves, stunted growth, and general weakness.

You may notice the plant’s aerial parts have an orange to yellow appearance when you see them from a distance.

These patterns of discoloration may look irregular, patchy, or uneven and can vary in shape and size.

However, the horrid visible appearance of your celosia is a late-stage symptom of the more severe crown or root decay and reduced root function. The roots will appear dark and greasy if you remove plants from the soil.

B. cinerea, as described above, is also known to cause stem rot in celosia plants.

Additionally, Rhizoctonia species can also induce stem rot. Rhizoctonia is a soil-borne fungus.

It targets the plant at the soil line, causing damage and infection. Once your celosia is infected, you’ll observe brown lesions on the stem near the soil.

These lesions will gradually expand and encircle the stem, leading to wilting and dieback above the infected area.

The impact of Rhizoctonia can be severe, as the girdling effect of the lesions disrupts the flow of nutrients and water, compromising the plant’s overall health.

As a result, affected celosia will display noticeable wilting and a decline in vigor.

Celosia plants started from seed may also succumb to damping off, another condition caused by Pythium and Rhizoctonia, as well as Fusarium pathogens.

One of the most common problems when starting from seed, a seedling that emerges will appear to be healthy, and then it wilts and dies for no obvious reason.

Excessive moisture, overwatering, high humidity, and overcrowded conditions can all lead to damping off.

9. Salt Injury

High concentrations of soluble salts can cause injury to celosia plants. Soluble salts refer to the dissolved minerals that are present in the soil, primarily sodium, chloride, and other minerals.

When the concentration of these salts becomes too high, it can create an imbalance in the water and nutrient uptake, leading to various symptoms of salt injury.

Celosias are very sensitive to excessive salt accumulation in the roots, and this can negatively impact their growth and overall health. Some common symptoms include leaf burn, stunted growth, wilting, and reduced flowering.

The leaf edges and tips may turn brown or yellow, and in severe cases, they may become necrotic and dry out. The leaf tissue may appear scorched or crispy.

This injury can be caused by irrigation with salty water, over-fertilization, poor drainage, lack of soil amendments, natural soil composition, and living in arid or semi-arid climates.

Tips to Avoid Premature Death

To avoid the premature death of your celosia plants, let’s go over a few things that can contribute to a better life so you can be better prepared.

First, remove dead or dying tissue from plants and the soil’s surface, as this reduces the risk of disease spread. Any dead or decaying tissue can harbor pathogens that can infect healthy specimens.

Avoid any unnecessary wounding of your plants. This can be caused by physical damage to the tissues of your celosia, or chemically by the misuse of pesticides or overfertilization.

Physical damage can create entry points for pathogens and increase the risk of infection. Chemical damage can lead to stress and weakening of the plant’s defenses.

Celosias are sensitive plants, and high humidity creates a favorable environment for the growth of fungal pathogens. Ensure your celosia gets enough air circulation and is planted with proper spacing. Overcrowding can lead to increased humidity and poor circulation.

Considering the time of day when you choose to water is also recommended.

As a rule of thumb, it is considered best practice to water in the early morning, allowing celosia foliage to dry during the day. Avoid watering at night, as this can lead to fungal growth.

It is best to minimize handling wet celosia plants as well. If you need to prune or manipulate the plants, do so when they’re dry.

Grow your celosias in a well-drained area away from soil that tends to become oversaturated and waterlogged. Try and avoid overhead watering as much as possible.

Always keep your gardening tools and pots clean and sanitary with rubbing alcohol or bleach before and after gardening.

Dirty tools and pots can harbor harmful pathogens and pests that can spread and infect your plants.

Cleaning gardening implements regularly kills any lingering pathogens or pests, reducing the risk of contamination.

Avoid planting early in the season when soil temperatures are below 60°F.

Planting in cold soil can lead to poor root development and slow growth, making the plants more susceptible to stress and disease.

When soil temperatures are too low, it hampers nutrient uptake and impacts metabolism, hindering the plant’s ability to thrive.

If growing in the ground, avoid planting celosia or other species susceptible to the same diseases in the same location year after year.

Rotate them to different areas of the garden to break the cycle and minimize the buildup of pathogens in the soil.

It is also always best to start with disease-free specimens and select varieties with high disease tolerance.

Obtain transplants from reputable sources that ensure disease-free stock. This reduces the chances of introducing harmful pathogens to your garden.

Solarization can be considered when dealing with soil-borne pests or diseases. This process involves covering the soil with a clear plastic sheet to trap heat from the sun.

The trapped heat raises the soil temperature, killing certain pathogens and pests.

Work on the health of your soil by amending with compost or compost tea to improve its fertility and structure.

Enhancing the diversity and activity of soil microbes can help create a balanced and thriving soil ecosystem, which supports your plants’ overall health and resilience.

Depending on your location, you may wish to check the salt level of your water by conducting a water analysis. Avoid overfertilizing, as this can lead to an accumulation of salts in the soil.

When you suspect temperatures will drop, taking proactive measures to protect your celosia plants is essential.

One effective method is to apply a layer of mulch around the base. Mulch acts as an insulating barrier, helping to regulate soil temperature and protecting the roots from extreme cold.

Adopting effective pest management strategies is important to deal proactively with pests.

Integrated pest management strategies include regular monitoring to catch any infestations early on. Utilize physical barriers such as row covers or netting to create a protective shield around your plants as needed.

Employ holistic treatments like neem oil, insecticidal soaps, and organic repellents to deter pests naturally.

Consider companion planting with pest-repelling varieties like marigolds or garlic to create a less appealing environment for pests. Finally, get creative with traps such as beer traps for slugs or other inventive methods to catch and control pests.

Implementing these strategies can help protect your celosia plants and promote their healthy growth.

Saving Celosia Plants from the Brink of Death

Understanding and addressing the various factors that can lead to the premature death of celosia plants is crucial for their survival and longevity.

We explored several common threats that can affect celosia’s journey from the soil to seed to flowering.

It is essential to provide optimal growing conditions and maintain plant health as best we can.

By following the recommended preventive care tips, we can ensure that our celosia plants thrive and bring beauty to our gardens.

We would love to hear about your experiences! Feel free to comment and share below.

If you found this guide valuable and are interested in identifying diseases in other flowers, check these articles out next:

Lindsey asks about getting rid of a smart phone:

Please tell me more about the smartphone. How did you get rid of it? It seems like a silly question I suppose but did you replace it with a dumb phone? Where did you find a dumb phone and a cellphone plan to go with it?

I am interested in the logistics of making it work when you walk into restaurants that no longer carry paper menus. The trendy ones all want you to scan a QR code these days. Or more importantly, communicating with necessary service providers when they all want you to have their app. Looking at banks and daycare at the moment… I suppose daycare isn’t too much a concern for you, but banks?

I guess this all boils down to: do you have any tips for someone considering a similar thing (as I type this on the smartphone)?

At the beginning of 2022, I pulled the SIM card from my Android smartphone and said goodbye.

I took that SIM card and put it into a Light Phone II. All that phone really does is text and call, though it also has a simple map app which provides simple written directions from location to location.

This was a very good decision and I do not regret it.

Our phones are spy devices that track us and record our lives. They also constantly irradiate you. And yes, the Light Phone also allows the user to be tracked, but most of the time I leave it off or at home.

Once you’re not checking notifications and emails and reading the news, etc., you stop caring about your phone.

As for restaurants, etc., I don’t care. If they can’t tell me what they serve without me having to carry a government tracking device smartphone, heck with them.

And no, we don’t do daycare. And I don’t care to install banking apps. I reject all that. You can still function without a phone, and life is much better without it.

Don’t you remember what it was like to not carry that stupid thing? To not constantly have your eyes and attention drawn to a little screen that begs for your attention? To live life unencumbered by digital noise?

I remembered, and wished I had those days back.

So I reclaimed them by ditching my phone.

The benefits of living without a digital chain greatly outweigh the difficulties. I’ve gotten to read many more books since I cut the leash – just look at the reading lists I’ve posted for the last two years!

My wife still has a smart phone, which she uses sometimes. We take photos on it, and occasionally I’ll take it in the car when driving someplace unfamiliar.

But personally, I’m done. And if her phone was gone too, it’d be fine.

I read paper books.

I garden with hand tools.

I can sit by the pond and watch my cows without Zuckerberg dinging away in my pocket.

I play with my children without taking a phone from my pocket.

I carry on conversations face to face.

I go to sleep without the blue glow of a screen.

I don’t have a TV.

I don’t have a computer in my house.

I reject Modernity.

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Tragopogon porrifolius

I just don’t understand why certain plants aren’t more popular.

I’m so happy that edible flowers are finding a foothold, and extra spicy chilis are practically a veggie garden staple. But some vegetables still don’t have the following they deserve.

Salsify is one of those plants. It’s delicious, resistant to most pests and diseases, and has a flavor that tastes like nothing else.

You can store the roots for a good long time, and you’d better believe they’re versatile in the kitchen.

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In case it’s not clear already, I love salsify. I remember the first time I tasted it, and I resolved to make it a part of my garden immediately.

I didn’t realize that the seeds can be a bit finicky and the plants need a long time to mature in cool weather.

Needless to say, my first attempts weren’t impressive. But I persevered because I wasn’t about to live without the marvelous roots. Now I’m a salsify pro, and I’m going to help you to become one, too.

In just a sec, we’ll go over the following to make growing salsify a breeze:

Salsify grows well in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9, and it needs a long period of cool weather to thrive. In the right location, you can pretty much plant it and forget it.

Ready to dig in?

What Is Salsify?

Salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius), not to be confused with false or black salsify (Scorzonera hispanica), is a plant grown for its edible root.

In this guide, we’ll focus on the former rather than the latter species, but they can be used interchangeably in the kitchen and they are related.

Hailing from the Asteraceae family, T. porrifolius is related to chicory and dandelion and looks quite similar. It’s a biennial, but most of us grow it as an annual.

Salsify is one of those plants that serves multiple purposes.

The purple or yellow flowers, which resemble a darker chicory, are an ornamental addition to the garden.

In addition to being edible, they’re also attractive to pollinators. The flowers eventually give way to dandelion-like seed heads that disperse in the wind.

The leaves don’t resemble those of chicory or dandelion, though. They look quite a bit like tall grass, as they’re long and strappy, reaching up to four feet in height.

The root looks like a thin, white carrot, but the flavor is nothing like a carrot. With a hint of ocean flavor that’s slightly mineral-esque, it has a similar flavor to the brine in mild oysters.

I’ve also heard it compared to asparagus or parsnip. I think it depends on when you harvest it and what conditions it grows in.

Cultivation and History

Oyster plant, Jerusalem star, vegetable oyster, goatsbeard, or purple salsify – whatever you call it, this species originated in the Mediterranean, where it was foraged and cultivated by the ancient Greeks and Romans.

Good old naturalist Pliny the Elder mentioned it in his writing several times.

By the 1500s, it was widely cultivated throughout Europe, and by the 1700s, it had reached the New World.

In the Victorian era, this veggie had reached its peak popularity in the New World. Since then, it’s fallen off menus a bit.

You could find recipes for it in the first edition of “The Joy of Cooking,” but it was never as ubiquitous as vegetables like potatoes or carrots.

When refrigeration became widely available, people turned away from certain long-storing root veggies, and salsify all but vanished. What a shame. But you have the power to turn things back around in your garden!

Propagation

You’ve got one option if you want to grow salsify, and that’s to get your hands on some seeds. These plants can’t be grown via division, cuttings, or transplanting. So, seeds it is.

Thank goodness it’s fairly straightforward. Timing is going to be your biggest challenge.

This veggie needs up to 150 days with temperatures under 85°F to mature, so you might need to get a headstart on the growing season.

You have two options: start seeds outdoors a few weeks before the last predicted frost date, or start seeds indoors in five-inch compostable pots eight weeks before the last frost date. Compostable pots are key because you don’t want to disturb the developing taproots.

If you live in a region with mild winters, you can plant salsify in the fall and harvest in the spring. In Zone 8, for instance, you should put seeds in the ground in early November.

Plant the slender seeds an inch deep, one per pot, or spaced nine inches apart outside.

Water the soil carefully so as not to disturb the seeds and keep the soil moist, but not soggy, as the seeds germinate. If you’re propagating indoors, place the pots under grow lights for eight hours per day.

If you’ve started the seeds in pots, take them outside to harden them off a week or so before the last predicted frost date. If you’ve never hardened seedlings off before, it’s pretty simple.

Take the plants outside for an hour and let them hang out in a protected area in the sunshine. Then, take them back inside to the safety of the indoors. The next day, take them outside for two hours, and on the third day, three hours.

Noticing a pattern? Keep doing this, adding an hour each day, for a week. At that point, you can plant the seedlings in the ground.

Gently rough up the bottom of the container and dig a hole in prepared soil. The growing soil needs to be extremely well-draining and loose.

Seriously. As loose as you can manage. It’s hard to harvest the roots without breaking them, and loose soil will make all the difference.

The best method of loosening up soil is to work in tons of well-rotted compost at least a foot deep.

You can also grow salsify in containers filled with water-retentive potting soil, but the container or raised bed needs to be at least a foot deep.

How to Grow

There are two challenges when growing salsify.

The first is that it needs cool weather for about 150 days to mature. People who live in regions with a long, hot summer are probably not going to be able to succeed with these plants.

The other challenge is harvesting, which we’ll talk about shortly. For now, let’s focus on growing conditions.

To make life easier come harvest time, and to ensure the longest, widest roots possible, ensure the soil is extremely loose.

I live in a region with heavy clay, so I grow mine in deep pots filled with an extremely light potting soil.

You wouldn’t want to grow a tree in super light soil because it’s too loose for the roots to find support. But it’s perfect for root veggies like potatoes and salsify.

I use FoxFarm’s Lucky Dog because it’s full of nutritious stuff like earthworm castings and beneficial mycorrhizal fungi, plus ingredients like peat moss and perlite to make the soil loose and light.

FoxFarm Lucky Dog

Compressed 2.2-cubic-foot cubes are available on Amazon.

If you aren’t cursed with heavy clay, feel free to grow yours in the ground. Just work in a ton of well-rotted compost or a soil conditioner like FoxFarm’s Happy Frog Soil Conditioner.

FoxFarm Happy Frog Soil Conditioner

Amazon carries this fantastic product, which contains worm castings and healthy soil microbes, in 1.5-cubic-foot bags.

The secret to growing good roots is in the water. The roots need consistent moisture, not too much and not too little.

The easiest thing to do to test the soil moisture is to stick your finger in the soil. If it feels dry below your first knuckle, it’s time to add water. Don’t let the soil get soggy, though. That will drown the roots.

The only thing you need to do in terms of maintenance while your salsify is growing is to prune off any dead leaves. These are just a drag on the plant. Get rid of them.

Growing Tips

• Plant when you’ll have about five months of cool weather or start seeds indoors.
• Roots need loose, rich soil. Amend the soil or plant in a container.
• Water when the top inch of soil dries out.

Cultivars to Select

There aren’t a ton of salsify cultivars on the market, but there are a few, and they’re awesome. Here are the most common varieties:

Fiore Blu

‘Fiore Blu’ has a beautiful purple-blue flower and the root itself is milder than the species. Otherwise, it’s extremely similar.

If you want something somewhat ornamental and not too aggressive in flavor, pick up some ‘Fiore Blu.’

Mammoth Sandwich Island

‘Mammoth Sandwich Island’ is unsurprisingly large, with roots that can reach up to 10 inches in length and an inch in diameter.

They’re tapered, giving them the appearance of a white carrot or parsnip, though the flavor is all salsify.

‘Mammoth Sandwich Island’

It’s not just that the larger roots give you more to munch on, but they’re also less prone to snapping as you’re attempting to harvest them.

Seeds are available from Eden Brothers and True Leaf Market.

White French

‘White French’ is an heirloom that can be a little hard to find, but if you do, the slender, pale roots are full of flavor and reliably reach up to six inches long.

Managing Pests and Disease

If you’ve ever grown a vegetable that seemed to be constantly fighting off bad bugs or nasty diseases, growing salsify is going to be a nice change of pace.

It’s pretty rare that something comes along to trouble these plants, and when something does, it rarely threatens your harvest.

Let’s talk about pests first.

Insects

Aphids are common garden pests but they only casually feed on salsify. If there’s nothing better around, they will nibble on it, though.

Carrot rust fly infestations aren’t super common either, but they can be much more damaging.

Aphids

If you were hoping that salsify escapes the aphid plague, I’m sorry to disappoint.

Bean (Aphis fabae), green peach (Myzus persicae), pea (Acyrthosiphon pisum), and potato aphids (Macrosyphum euphorbiae) will all feed on salsify, leaving the leaves speckled and potentially reducing the plant’s vigor if an infestation is large enough.

Generally, you can control the problem by spraying off the leaves with a gentle blast of water.

Do this for a few days in a row, and things should be taken care of. If not, read our guide to aphids for more tips.

Carrot Rust Flies

Carrot rust flies (Psila rosae) are tiny, but boy are they nasty.

The larvae will feed on the roots of salsify, leaving rotten tunnels behind as an unfortunate surprise at harvest time. And that’s assuming that they don’t kill the root outright.

These tunnels leave the root exposed to disease, and they can render your harvest inedible.

Beneficial insects and protective netting are the gold standard in prevention. Learn more in our guide to identifying and controlling carrot rust flies.

Disease

Salsify is tough, and it’s unlikely that you’ll ever experience problems with disease.

But seeing ailments strike rarely is not the same thing as never encountering harmful pathogens that may affect your crop. Be on the lookout for white rust, just in case.

White Rust

White rust is a disease caused by an oomycete called Pustula tragopogonis (formerly Albugo tragopogonis).

It infects sunflowers (Helianthus annuus), goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus), and, you guessed it, salsify. It spreads in water and can live in the soil, thriving in humid weather under 70°F.

It causes crusty, raised, white lumps all along the underside of the leaves, eventually causing them to collapse.

Sunflowers are a host, and pests like aphids can carry it. If you really want to avoid this problem, don’t plant sunflowers nearby and do your best to control aphid populations.

Since it won’t usually kill your plant, just trim off the infected foliage and rotate your crops regularly. Don’t plant sunflowers or salsify in the same spot more than once every three years.

Harvesting

Harvest those roots before any flowers form! Once the flowers start blooming, the roots become tough and bitter.

The same goes for the leaves. Chomp into those before the flowers form because that’s when they’re tender.

Since the flowers don’t form until the second year of growth, most of us who grow these veggies as annuals won’t have to worry.

To harvest the leaves, just cut a few here or there in the morning when they’re full of water.

Don’t overharvest or you’ll compromise the root. Never take more than a third of the leaves at a time and let them regrow before you take more.

Of course, if you want to eat the flowers, you have to let them develop. Pluck them when they’re fully open in the afternoon.

If you want to harvest seeds, let the plant go dormant over the winter and then harvest the seeds after they form post-bloom the next growing season. They should be tan and hard when they’re ready.

Now, for the hard part. Remember how we talked about needing loose, loose, loose soil? This is where that prep pays off.

Harvesting the roots whole is challenging. They’re often thin, and they want to break as you tug and wiggle them out of the soil.

To harvest, use a garden fork or knife. I prefer to use a hori-hori knife because it gives me the leverage and maneuverability I need to work the roots out whole.

Barebones Classic Hori Hori Knife

I like my Barebones Classic because the handle has a nice grip to it, and the stainless steel blade is thick and sturdy. If you’d like one for your toolkit, they’re available at Amazon.

Once you have your tool, dig all around the clump to loosen everything up.

Then, grip the leaves at the base and gently pull as you use your tool to lift up the roots. If you feel resistance, stop and do a little more soil loosening.

Remember, don’t let the plant flower before you harvest. If you do, make sure to cook those older roots well.

Preserving

Brush the dirt off the roots, don’t wash them, and wrap them in a paper towel.

Stick this inside a ventilated plastic bag and you can place the roots in the refrigerator crisper drawer for a few weeks.

You can also store the roots in sand in a root cellar. They’ll last this way for a month or so.

Wait to wash until just before using to prevent rot.

Salsify can be dehydrated, but it loses flavor. Still, it’s better than losing the root altogether to the ravages of time.

Slice the cleaned roots a quarter-inch thick and dehydrate them in an electric dehydrator, or in a single layer on a baking sheet at the lowest heat setting in your oven.

Stop when they’ve attained a crisp texture and have turned tan.

You can also freeze the roots. Slice them into chunks, quickly blanch them in boiling water, and then shock them in ice water.

Pat them dry and place them in sealed bags with the air pressed out. The roots will need to be used in recipes like soup because they turn soft as a result of this process.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

I love ocean-flavored vegetables. My favorite veggie in the whole world is the sea bean, aka pickleweed or glasswort, and salsify is a close runner-up.

It doesn’t taste fishy, but it does have a flavor that is reminiscent of the sea.

Since neither I nor my wallet can support a daily oyster habit, I get my fix by slicing the roots about a quarter-inch thick and roasting them in oil in the oven to make chips. You might toss in some garlic cloves or some dry herbs like thyme or oregano.

Cook until they reach the texture you prefer, and then toss them in a bit of salt and chopped parsley. If you want, serve with lemon wedges so diners can squeeze a bit on as they eat.

If you prefer fries rather than chips, you can cut the roots into sticks instead of coins.

For a fresh snack, shred the roots and toss them in a vinaigrette. Throw in some shredded carrots and green onions if you want.

You should always cook older roots. Nothing bad will happen if you eat the older roots, except they’re tough and not too appealing to gnaw on. Young roots can be eaten raw without threatening your dental work.

If you’ve ever made creamy parsnip soup, use salsify instead for a different flavor.

Or boil the shredded roots and mix them with a little mayo and spices, pack them into patties, and roast them in some butter in a pan to make veggie “fish” cakes.

If you let the plant flower and go to seed, those slender seeds can be soaked in water until they sprout. Add the sprouted seeds to salads and soups. The greens can also be sauteed in a pan with butter.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Biennial root vegetable	Flower/Foliage Color:	Purple, yellow/green
Native to:	Mediterranean	Water Needs:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	5-9	Maintenance:	Low
Bloom Time/Season:	Spring-fall	Tolerance:	Frost
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil Type:	Loose, rich
Time to Maturity:	150 days	Soil pH:	6.0-6.8
Spacing:	9 inches	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	1 inch (seeds)	Attracts:	Pollinators
Height:	4 feet	Order:	Asterales
Spread:	18 inches	Family:	Asteraceae
Growth Rate:	Moderate	Genus:	Tragopogon
Common Pests and Diseases:	Aphids, carrot rust flies; white rust	Species:	Porrifolius

Say Yes to Salsify

Move over beets. It’s about time a new root veggie moved in.

Salsify is far more versatile than most people realize, if they even know what it is. And if you can grow carrots, you can grow salsify!

How do you plan to use your harvest? Share your cooking tips with us in the comments.

Root vegetables rock. Looking for a few more to add to your garden? Check these out next:

A backyard that is well-designed and well-lit can be a wonderful place to unwind and relax after a tiring day, have summer evening get-togethers, or simply enjoy the stunning view of your outdoor area

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Landscape lighting is an essential aspect of this transformation, helping to enhance your backyard’s beauty, safety, and functionality.

In this blog post, we will explore the art of landscape lighting and provide tips on transforming your backyard with outdoor lamps.

The Importance of Landscape Lighting

Landscape lighting serves not only to brighten your outdoor area but also to establish a vibe that mirrors your character and preferences. A well-lit backyard can:

1. Enhance safety and security: Proper lighting can help deter intruders and prevent accidents, such as tripping over steps or uneven surfaces.
2. Extend the usability of your outdoor space: With adequate lighting, you can enjoy your backyard long after the sun has set, making it perfect for evening gatherings or quiet moments under the stars.
3. Highlight architectural features and landscaping elements: Skillfully placed lights can accentuate the beauty of your home’s exterior, garden, and other outdoor features.
4. Create a welcoming ambiance: Proper lighting in your backyard can create a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, making it a pleasant place for you and your guests to hang out and enjoy outdoor activities.

Types of Outdoor Lamps

To better understand landscape lighting, it is important to become acquainted with the different outdoor lamps available. Each type serves a specific purpose and can be used to achieve different effects in your backyard.

1. Path lights: These are low-voltage fixtures designed to illuminate walkways, driveways, and garden paths, ensuring safe navigation after dark.
2. Accent lights: These lamps are used to highlight specific features in your backyard, such as statues, fountains, or unique plants.
3. Floodlights: These high-intensity lights are perfect for illuminating larger areas, such as patios, decks, and pool areas.
4. Step lights: Installed directly into steps or stair risers, these low-profile fixtures provide subtle illumination for added safety.
5. Bollard lights: These tall, cylindrical fixtures are ideal for lining driveways or pathways, providing both illumination and a sleek, modern look.
6. String lights: Perfect for creating a festive atmosphere, these versatile lights can be hung from trees, pergolas, or fences to add a touch of whimsy to your outdoor space.

Planning Your Landscape Lighting Design

It’s time to start planning your landscape lighting design now that you know about the various types of outdoor lamps. Here are some tips to help you create a stunning and functional backyard oasis:

1. Identify your goals: Before selecting any fixtures or mapping out your lighting plan, determine what you want to achieve with your landscape lighting. Are you looking to enhance security, showcase specific features, or create a particular mood? Knowing your objectives will help guide your design choices.
2. Create a blueprint: Sketch a rough map of your backyard, including all significant structures, landscaping elements, and existing lighting. This will help you visualize your space and identify areas that need additional illumination.
3. Choose the right fixtures: With your goals and blueprint in hand, select the appropriate outdoor lamps to achieve your desired effects. Remember to consider factors such as light output, energy efficiency, and fixture style.
4. Consider the lighting techniques: There are several lighting techniques that can be employed to create different effects in your backyard. Some popular methods include uplighting (illuminating an object from below), downlighting (casting light downward from above), and silhouette lighting (placing a light source behind an object to create a dramatic outline).
5. Layer your lighting: To create a balanced and visually appealing outdoor space, incorporate multiple layers of lighting. For example, you might use accent lights to highlight specific features, path lights for safe navigation, and string lights to add ambiance.
6. Test and adjust: Once your landscape lighting is installed, take the time to test and fine-tune your design. This may involve adjusting the angle of your fixtures, experimenting with different bulb types, or adding additional lamps to achieve the desired effect.

Choosing an outdoor tile design also plays into the overall landscape lighting aesthetic. Installing tiles with an interesting texture or pattern can create a unique look and add a touch of sophistication to your backyard.

Maintaining Your Landscape Lighting

To keep your backyard looking its best, it’s essential to maintain your landscape lighting properly. To keep your outdoor lamps in optimal condition, follow these tips:

1. Clean fixtures regularly: To keep your outdoor lamps functioning well and looking good, it’s important to wipe them down regularly with a soft cloth. This will remove any dust, dirt, or debris that may have accumulated and restore their light output.
2. Replace burned-out bulbs promptly: A single burned-out bulb can throw off the balance of your landscape lighting design. Replace any dead bulbs as soon as possible to maintain the integrity of your outdoor space.
3. Trim foliage: Overgrown plants can obstruct your landscape lighting, casting unwanted shadows or blocking light entirely. Keep your landscaping well-trimmed to ensure your outdoor lamps can do their job effectively.
4. Inspect wiring and connections: Periodically check your landscape lighting wiring and connections for signs of wear or damage. Address any issues promptly to prevent potential safety hazards.

Conclusion

Landscape lighting can transform your backyard into a stunning and functional outdoor oasis with careful planning, the right fixtures, and proper maintenance. Embrace the art of landscape lighting and let your creativity shine as you design the perfect illuminated sanctuary for your home.