Vegetables are easy to grow and are very rewarding at harvest time. The most important requirements are sunshine and watering. Other requirements are a loosened soil, some fertilizer, and a little bit of weeding. If you have an area in your yard that gets sunshine most of the day (6-8 hours in summer) then you can have a vegetable garden. The first time you start a new garden requires the most amount of work, but don’t get discouraged, the work you do in the beginning does not have to be done again each year.
The ground that the plants will grow in needs to be loosened up so that the roots of the tender vegetable plants can grow into your soil and make strong, healthy plants. The roots are the only way the plant takes up water and nutrients so you want to make their job easy. Unfortunately, soil found in most yards has become compacted over the years and can be as hard as concrete in summer.
Therefore, the best time to dig your garden is early spring when it is moist enough to dig easily but not so wet that the soil is muddy and heavy. The first step is to mark out your spot making sure there are no trees or large shrubs around it with roots that will spread into your garden. Then, remove the grass and create some type of border around the garden to keep it neat and weed free. I also recommend a short fence if you have pets, as the garden can easily be mistaken for a large litter box.
You must dig your soil to loosen the clumps and allow air in, which will allow the roots to breathe (yes, they need air also). The depth that I recommend is at least 12″. It seems like a lot when you are digging but keep in mind that your tomato plants will extend their roots approximately 2 feet down into the soil. I use a large digging fork and involve my whole family but a rototiller makes short work of it. Rakes also help in smoothing the soil out after the digging is done. You should add about 2″ of compost at this point and mix it into the soil well.
Do not add too much, 10-20% of the soil should be compost, but no more than that or you will over- fertilize your garden. When it looks like a good place to lie down and take a nap then you are ready to plant. You may also need Lime or Gypsum in your garden to correct the Ph. If you live in an area with lots of rainfall, add lime every year, about 1 pound per 100 sq. feet. If you have low rainfall amounts each year, you may need to add some Gypsum to new gardens to remove some of the salt content. Check with your local garden center for the correct amount.
Before you plant, you need to do some planning to allow enough room for the plants you want to grow. Plants generally get very large and you need to allow enough space for each one, or the plant will become stressed and may not produce good fruit. When you purchase them most plants will have information on how much room they will need when fully grown. A good rule of thumb is to allow 18-24″ spacing for most plants. I recommend using a paper & pencil to draw the garden plan out. Always keep in mind that the sun will be important to all of the plants so put the tallest ones in the back so they do not shade the shorter ones.
Some plants you may wish to grow in your first garden for Summer harvest:
Tomatoes, Peppers, Squash, Bush Beans, Eggplant, and Cucumbers (If you have lots of room then you should also plant Corn.)
Spring and Fall crops include:Leaf Lettuce, Broccoli, Spinach, and Peas
Plant at least 2-3 of each type of plant, depending on how many vegetables you want, but don’t worry about using all 6 plants in the 6 packs or you will have so much fruit you may never eat another cucumber again. You should water gently after planting until the soil is moist at 1″ below the surface. Water again when the soil appears dry on the top. This can happen daily in warm summers. I recommend putting newspaper strips or pine needles as mulch around the plants to protect the soil from drying out so quickly and to keep the soil cool when the temperatures go up.
Keep an eye out for signs of insect damage to the leaves, mostly holes chewed by caterpillars. If you see this then you can use an organic insecticide such as Bacillius Thuringiensis ( or BT worm killer) according to package instructions. Do not spray strong insecticides every time you see an ant. You will poison your vegetables and stress your plants out which will reduce your crop and may kill your garden. Most insects are actually supposed to be there for pollination and to eat caterpillars, so only spray when you see something that is eating a leaf and causing severe damage, and then check the labels carefully to make sure the insecticides are organic and safe for vegetables.
Weeds are a fact of life with gardening but they should be pulled, not sprayed. Again, the poison to the weeds is poison to us. If you check for weeds every 2-3 days and use a weeding tool, the work goes fast and easy. Using a mulch will keep many weeds from starting.
I highly recommend Organic fertilizers such as worm castings or Osmocote pellets which can be purchased in our Catalog. These are mixed in at planting time and last almost the whole growing season. If you wish to use a spray-on fertilizer, (such as Miracle Gro), then approximately every 3-4 weeks, spray the leaves of the plants according to package instructions for vegetables. You may use any type of “complete” fertilizer that is recommended for vegetables, as they are all basically the same ingredients, but remember, more is not better, so follow the instructions carefully to keep from over fertilizing.
If you follow the above instructions, you will be successful in harvesting lots of vegetables. It really is easy and you will learn more every year. Experiment and do not get discouraged if something does not work the first time. People have been gardening for 30 years and are still learning new things every year. Good luck!
There is no part of the garden work which calls for such nice judgment and careful attention as the sowing of seed. Most of the failures originate right here, and a large share of the blame devoted to the seeds and seedsman, if traced back to its original source, would be found to rest on the ignorance or carelessness of the gardener. In the first place, there is a tendency among a large class of people to get something for nothing or at least at a bargain. This results in the purchase of cheap seeds or premium seeds, or seeds are purchased of the local grocer or seedsman and may, probably, have laying on his shelves from the season before or an even earlier date.
Now, to have a successful garden one must start right by buying good seeds of reliable seedsmen and seeds of plants suited to one’s own locality. If, in addition, the seeds have been grown in practically the same latitude, so much the better; it ensures a hardy constitution, acclimated to the conditions which prevail in your particular locality. Now, as a general thing, good seed means high-priced seeds or seeds for which one pays a reasonable amount. This is at it should be. One should not expect to raise premium vegetables from cheap, scrub seed, and there is as great a difference in the pedigree of seed as in that of animals.
Then one should not only see that they are securing the best seed that the market affords but they should secure it in time, not wait until they are ready to plant and then rush off an order, hurriedly prepared and half the things needed to be forgotten and most of the others wrong, and expect to receive them by return mail. The spring of the year is a busy time with the seedsman, and it is but fair to him, as well as just to yourself, to give him a reasonable time to fill your order by getting it in early. If Mr. Jones has ordered an ounce of silver-skin peppers and ruby-king parsnips, there ought to be time allowed for the seedsman to inquire what Mr. Jones really wants, and not be obliged to fill his order by guesswork. Of course, he will readily understand that what is wanted is ruby‑king peppers and silver-skin onions, but how about the parsnips?
Late in winter or early in spring, one should go over their seeds which have been saved from the home garden and ascertain how far they meet the requirements of the coming year. Then a list of such seeds as are not on hand should be made and the catalogs consulted for prices and varieties. The list made up then may, probably will, need frequent revising, and by the time it is mailed to the seedsman may be trusted to supply just about the varieties and quantities wanted. And, speaking of quantity, it will be about as cheap, in a good many cases, to buy by the ounce as by the packet; especially is this the case with those seeds of which it may be necessary to make repeated sowings—as cucumbers, squashes, melons, beans, and the like. A cold, wet spring often entails much replanting, and sufficient seed should be on hand to enable one to replant at once when it is discovered that the first planting is for any reason abortive. Owing to the proneness of seeds of vine plants to rot in the ground if too wet or cold, a much greater quantity of seed is required. Generous planting of these seeds is also necessary on account of the ravages of the squash bug, which must be liberally fed to induce him to leave a plant or two for the garden.
Next in importance to the quality of the seeds is the time in which they are sown. There are a few seeds which may be planted into the ground as early as it can be worked. Beets, cabbage, lettuce, onions, peas, salsify, spinach, and turnips are all planted for early crops as soon as the ground can be worked, but such early planting of corn, tomatoes, melons, cucumbers, and other heat-loving plants would simply result in the loss of both time and seed.
The condition of the soil, also, has a marked influence on the germination of the seed. When the ground is still wet from the frost in spring it is not in condition for the successful sowing of seed; it is better to wait until it has dried sufficiently to be mellow and tractable before sowing any kind of seed. Too dry a soil is seldom a cause of complaint. The thorough firming of the soil over the seed is of the utmost importance—this and the depth at which the seeds are planted—for in sowing seed in the open ground much greater depth is necessary than would be given the same seed in the hotbed.
In my early gardening experience I was very ambitious about getting things started at the earliest possible moment and to have things a little in advance of my neighbors, but several years of covering plants in the open ground to protect them from frost has quite cured me of any undue ambition; I am quite willing that my neighbor’s tomatoes shall ripen a day or two ahead of mine if in return they will collect blankets, quilts, canvas, and other protective material and spend frosty hours spreading them over tender plants scattered over an acre or two of ground and trail around in the dew of the morning removing them, while I toast my toes by the fire and read my evening paper.
Unless the time and the condition of the ground is entirely favorable, it will be well to plant only a portion of the seed at a time, reserving enough for a second planting should the first fail to come up or the young plants be destroyed in any way.
In Maygardening begins in earnest. April weather is too uncertain for many vegetables to be planted in the open and even early May cannot be trusted far. By the end of the month, however, practically the first planting of everything we wish to include in our program is in the ground.
Tomato plants must be guarded carefully against frost, at least until after the middle of May. If there is the slightest indication of an impending frost they should be covered.
Quart berrybones make ideal coverings if the plants are not too large, and they also are convenient to put on and take off. A good rule for the gardener to follow is to set out just a few tomato plants early, that their care may not be a burden, reserving the majority of them to be put out after the middle of the month.
Cold, wet weather is detrimental to eggplant, as it is strictly a hot-weather vegetable. It should not be transplanted in the garden until danger of frost is past.
Beans are also very sensitive to cold, but it is necessary to get them in the ground as soon as possible, especially certain varieties that is slow to mature. The lima bean is in this latter class, while the bush snap bean comes to maturity in a few weeks. It is wise to plant beans sparingly until there is little danger of their getting frosted.
Peppers, pimentoes, and cucumbers are also very susceptible to frost, as also are melons and squashes.
On the other hand, beets, carrots, parsnips, onions, cabbage, and broccoli are quite hardy, and should be in the ground by early May. By this time the second plantings of peas, radishes, lettuce, spinach, and onions, should be in progress, repeating as often as desired, at least until July, or as long as garden space holds out.
There are many varieties of very fine squashes, and where space permits it is well to raise at least three of them. The crooked neck summer squash, scorned by many, is delicious if properly prepared. They must be taken from the vines while the outer shell and the seeds are very tender; otherwise they are not good. After cutting them into quarter-inch thick slices, skin, seeds, and all, and dipping them in batter or dusting them with flour and frying until tender, they taste very much like eggplant, and are not nearly so hard to raise. For winter use the little acorn squash is ideal, and there are many ways they may be prepared. One especially good method of preparing them is to remove the seeds through a small opening in the side, stuff them with sausage, replace the cap, and bake. These are for individual servings, as the squashes naturally are quite small. The larger winter squashes such as the Green Mountain, Hubbard, and banana, are also desirable varieties.
After middle May the sweet potato plants are in line for setting out. A well-fertilized soil is advocated. Applying the manure in a row and ridging the earth up over it, is a satisfactory method. Sweet potatoes are better in every way when planted on a ridge of soil than when set out on level ground. The plants need plenty of moisture until they are well started, after which they thrive best if hot, dry weather prevails. Weeding is all the cultivating the ridge-planted potatoes require.
Where space permits potatoes and sweet corn should be included in the planting program. Potatoes may be planted from the first of May until July with good results. Sweet corn planted at intervals during that time also insures the gardener that popular item on the menu over a long period.
Broccoli is a vegetable fast gaining popularity, and it is easily grown. The young plants greatly resemble cabbage plants and are easily confused with them. Broccoli may be set out anytime during May, but the early part of the month is preferable. It will bear until cold weather if it is not allowed to go to seed.
Celery is easily grown, contrary to the belief of many. Early May should find the first plants in the ground. Celery thrives best with plenty of moisture, although after the plants are well started they will grow fairly well otherwise. Celery intended for winter storage is not set out until the middle of June. That will give plenty of time for thrifty stocks to develop. Celery must be cultivated well, keeping it free of weeds.
Do not hill it in its early stages, but when about half grown begin to hill gradually, being careful not to pull the earth between the stocks of the plant.
A few turnip seeds sown now for Summer and Fall, reserving for a larger planting in late July for winter storage, is a good rule to follow.
Seed stalks are now forming on the rhubarb. The rapidity with which they grow is nothing short of magic, and they must be pulled out as fast as they appear if it is desired to continue the satisfactory growth of the plants. Otherwise, the plant diverts its strength toward developing its seeds.
A “melon patch,” although it may be on a small scale, is an interesting garden venture. Melons thrive in sandy soil, but maybe grown without it. A shovelful of well-rotted cow manure mined well into the soil of each hill accelerates the growth of the plant and increases the number of melons. In a small space, muskmelons are preferable, as they do not “run” over so much territory as watermelons.
Care should be taken to separate as widely as possible, melons, squashes, pumpkins, cucumbers, and others of that family, as anyone has grown near the other may ruin both as to flavor. Different varieties of squash, for instance, maybe grown together without great harm, although seeds from them may not be satisfactory for planting next season.
Perhaps the most important garden work for the growing months ahead is weeding and cultivating. A neglected garden is a sorry sight and a poor producer. Weeds, if not curbed, take the strength from the ground, growing out of all proportions compared to the vegetable growth and choking them out altogether. Hoeing the moist earth around the plants serves almost the same purpose as a shower, and for the time at least; it kills or is a setback to the weed growth.
In the 70’s, my father would pack all of us in the station wagon, and drive for what seemed an eternity to visit my relatives. I was pretty young, but I can remember two details quite vividly. My brother getting me to ask, “Are we there yet?” and, visiting my Grandparents. My Grandma was an avid cook and gardener. While my older brothers would go fishing with my cousins, she would have my sister and I help with her gardens – watering, weeding, moving dirt and the like.
We loved it! As a treat, she would serve us her tomatoes, ripened on a windowsill, cut and covered with sugar. As a young adult, the rich flavor of those deeply colored fruits escaped me. Store-bought tomatoes, never had the flavor, and even the big beefsteaks from my own garden failed to quite capture the color and texture I remember from those hot summer days. I have always believed that my Grandmother had some growing secret. A few years back, I figured it out!
My father told me, his grandmother gave him those same tomatoes when he was a kid. Grandma was a seed saver! Today, her ‘secret’ would be considered an heirloom vegetable garden.
Growing heirloom vegetables is becoming increasingly popular, and can provide us edible glimpses into our agricultural heritage. Many of the hybrids offered today are designed to be better suited for survival, offer a more consistent yield, and can be grown in a wider range of climates. But the recent increase of support for growing heirloom fruits and vegetables has caused many seed catalogs to carry these seeds, devoting entire sections to them. This makes acquiring these seeds easier than a trip to Grandma’s. In order for plants to be considered heirlooms they must have three characteristics.
First of all, almost all heirlooms are open-pollinated varieties. Most of the seeds sold today are hybrids and seeds from these plants will usually take on the characteristics of just one of their genetic parents. Heirlooms will grow “true to type” from their seeds. This means seed-savers (like Grandma) can enjoy the identical variety year after year. You can share the seeds of successful plants with friends and family.
Some heirloom perennials are propagated from cuttings rather than seed, and while still considered heirlooms, their seeds may not produce exact genetic varieties. However, these are the exceptions rather than the rule. Some hybrids are stabilized and will open pollinate, but have not stood the test of time and are not considered heirlooms.
You should be able to trace heirloom varieties back fifty years or longer. This year marker is an arbitrary gauge. Yet many of the heirloom vegetables available can be traced back even farther. Pre World War II seed catalogs are filled with today’s ‘heirlooms’. Commercial seed companies dropped most of these for the more durable hybrid counterparts. But, these heirlooms have been rediscovered and are beginning to become available again today. The fifty-year cut-off predates the most popular hybrids, and many of these early varieties are lost. But this makes today’s true heirlooms that much more precious.
The final determining characteristic of heirloom vegetables is their histories. Many of these varieties were collected and saved by families and ethnic groups dating back to their European or South American counterparts. Seeds were gathered and saved, for the following season’s crop. This practice protected the genetic make–up that made the specific plant successful within each particular environment.
These base characteristics have become invaluable and the genetic strains of these vegetable forefathers are the backbone to today’s disease and drought-resistant hybrids. Professional seed houses collect and store these to preserve these characteristics to combat future unseen agricultural catastrophes. These histories are what make today’s heirloom vegetables edible pictures into an often overlooked part of our heritage.
I have never discovered the exact variety my grandmother used to grow (although ‘Brandywine’ seems awfully close). Unfortunately, the seeds she had propagated and saved for so long have been lost. But, the search to recapture those summer day treats has brought me hours of joy, and tons of tomatoes. I spent years learning how to garden. But, the practice of growing heirloom varieties has opened my eyes to a fascinating history of plants and agriculture. Now, when friends come over, we discuss my garden, and they get a brief history of some of the plants, and a packet of seeds. The heirloom vegetables I grow may not be the exact ones my great grandmother grew. But, they sure could be.
Everyone seems to think growing in containers is easier than growing in the ground but it can be even more difficult. In climates with lots of hot summer heat, even large pots can really heat up and the soil can be much warmer than in the ground. Potting soils are designed to drain well but that can be a problem in the summer when you want them to hold water a little bit longer. Fertilizer can wash out with frequent watering and leave your plants wanting more. Once plants are stressed, bugs attack and even diseases can make real problems that may never have occurred in the ground.
Here are some important ways to prevent these problems:
1. Use large containers. Keep in mind that the more root space the plant has, the better the roots will grow. This will allow the top part of the plant to grow large. Tomatoes can grow to over 6-8 feet tall and 2 feet across, a half whiskey barrel sized pot is just enough to accommodate the roots for that size plant. Small pots do make smaller plants but that also means a lot less fruit and many of the problems mentioned above.
2. Use compost in your pots too. You add compost to the ground when you plant, why not add it to the containers too? Compost is the best stuff for plants and it helps keep them cooler and moist during the summertime. Add about 25% or so to your potting soil mix. Mulch on top of the soil helps keep moisture in pots too.
3. Fertilizing regularly is very important. I love using worm castings for this purpose because I can add it anytime and never overfeed. It works like compost and feeds too. As an alternative, I highly recommend Osmocote for 6 months of feeding without thinking about it again. Our granular organic fertilizers are also very good and last about 6 weeks to 2 months before they need to be added again.
4. Never leave plants sitting in water. Trays under pots are dangerous because they hold water and can actually drown the roots of the plants by providing too much water. Dump them out frequently after rains. Good drain holes should be in every pot you plant in.
5. Make sure your plants get enough sunshine. Balconies and sun porches are great for growing plants but make sure there is sun at least 6 hours a day for vegetables to produce fruit well. Lettuces & Herbs will be satisfied with only 3-4 hours a day.
6. Too much heat can be detrimental to tomatoes. They will only set fruits when the temperatures are between 55-85 degrees and containers can heat up quickly in the summertime, especially if they are dark colored. Using pots that are too small, forgetting to water them or not mulching the soil will create a situation where the plants roots are just too hot for them to set tomatoes. They will blossom but the flowers will just fall off.
What you need:
All you need is a sunny, warm place and containers large enough for the plants you want to grow. Sunny decks, patios, and other areas are great for container gardening and do not require the difficult digging that starting a garden usually requires. Most vegetable plants will grow quite large so your containers must be large enough and not too crowded. Container gardening requires diligent watering and regular feeding, but it can be easy and fun for kids and adults. The main things you will need are:
Large Clay or Plastic Pots 18-24″ in diameter or larger (half whiskey barrels work great)
Watering Can or Hose
Good Potting Soil (enough to fill your pots)
Plant fertilizer and compost
For planting vegetables, you’ll need to allow approximately 18-24″ in diameter for each plant. This includes tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers, beans, squash, peppers and other large plants. These can be planted first and then you can add smaller vegetable plants such as onions, carrots, lettuces, or herbs around the bottom of the plant to fill in a large container.
First, prepare your potting soil by filling the container and adding plant food according to the directions on the package for vegetables. I prefer organic plant food or worm castings or slow release Osmocote pellets which last for the entire growing season. Moisten the potting soil by adding water and mixing soil until it feels damp all the way through. Place the pot in the sun and you are ready to plant. Next, dig a hole large enough for the vegetable transplant, turn the plant upside down, tap the bottom, and gently pull the base of the stem until the plant comes out of the container. Place the plant in the hole and fill around the edges pressing gently. Water the plant immediately after planting.
Plants should get at least 6 hours of sunshine per day. They can grow with less, but they will not produce fruit in the shade. It is also very important to keep your plants watered regularly. Put your finger down into the soil approximately 2-3” deep and see if the soil is dry at that level. If it is, then water well until water runs out of the bottom of the pot.
You will need to stake or support plants such as tomatoes, beans, & cucumbers, tomato cages or bamboo stakes work well. Follow the directions on your fertilizer package for feeding vegetables. Check occasionally for bug damage and worms which can do serious damage to tomato plants. There are organic treatments if needed.
Pick tomato fruits when they are almost completely red and finish ripening them on your kitchen counter. Once they are soft and totally colored, slice them immediately on to a sandwich and enjoy. Growing vegetables is easy and fun and the payoff of harvest from your own garden is worth the wait.
Growing your own fruit and vegetables is a fun and rewarding thing to do. These days we are all looking for healthier options and by growing your own produce, you can guarantee that it is totally organic. Chemicals and pesticides can cause all kinds of health problems so knowing exactly what is in your food can reassure you that it won’t have any negative effects on your body. The really good news is that growing your own produce is a lot easier than most people think. Anyone with a little bit of land outside or a little space in their home can start their own produce garden today!
This article is a guide to how to grow your own fruits and vegetables and get the top results.
Start Small
It takes a lot of time and knowledge to become a great gardener and growing the best vegetables requires serious effort and experience. The best way to start is to focus on just a few of your favorite fruits and vegetables so that you can give them all the love and attention they need. Even if you have dreams of growing the biggest fruits and vegetables in the world, you will need to start off small. Be realistic about the amount of time you can dedicate to your gardening as some fruits and vegetables require more care than others. If you only have time on the weekend, plan a small garden with just a few easy-to-grow plants that you can focus your attention on fully.
Use Grow Lights
These days, many people who don’t have any outside space, decide to grow an indoor garden. This is a very effective way to grow high-quality fruits and vegetables, as long as you implement the right methods and use the right equipment. One of the most important things you will need for your inside setup is quality grow lights. These will provide your fruit and vegetable plants with additional light that they would normally get outside from the sun. High-tech glow lights incorporate various bulbs that imitate the spectrum of UV rays emitted by the sun during different seasons and times of the year. Grow lights provide such ideal conditions that you can often produce better results with grow lights than you can grow produce in natural conditions outside. Another great thing is that you can grow plants that would not normally survive in the native climate where you live. This creates almost limitless opportunities for your garden.
Prepare Your Soil
Plants get their food from light and CO2 through the process of photosynthesis, but they also need additional nutrients and minerals to thrive and stay healthy. The best way to provide your produce with everything they need is with quality soil. You must prepare the right soil for each unique species of plant you are growing. Different plants require different chemical balances and nutrients so be sure to do your homework to find out exactly what your plants need. If you intend to grow organic fruits and vegetables, you must refrain from using any chemical substances at every stage of the growing process.
Rich compost is like superfood for plants and to make sure that yours is 100% organic you can make your own. The great thing about compost is that it costs absolutely nothing to make. Simply use your kitchen food waste like eggshells and vegetable and fruit peelings mixed up with garden waste like grass and plant clippings. Allow all of this to decompose and you will have the perfect compost for growing anything you like.
Keep Your Plants Free From Pests
Bugs and other pests can pose a big threat to your fruits and vegetables, especially if you are growing them organically without the use of pesticides. If you have a pest problem, you will first need to identify exactly what they are so that you can take the relevant steps to eradicate them. It may be a problem with the chemical balance of your soil, which is supporting the proliferation of these pests so you need to research the matter carefully. There are many organic options for dealing with unwanted visitors. There are sprays made from garlic and hot chilis which will deter certain pests, and you can also encourage ladybirds and frogs to settle in your garden and take care of the problem for you.
If you are planning to grow your fruits and vegetables, it is vital to know what you are doing if you want to get the best results. Start small and ensure the optimum conditions with regards to lighting and soil. Take preventative measures to stop pests from undoing all your hard work and your carrots and tomatoes will be the talk of the town.
It is believed that broccoli was known to the Romans at the time of Pliny, but references to this vegetable group it with cauliflower. The first notice of broccoli as such was made in 1724 by an English writer who called it “sprout colliclower or Italian asparagus.” In 1729 another English gardener reported that there were several kinds that he had been growing in London for two years; “that with small, whitish-yellow flowers like the cauliflower; others like the common sprouts and flowers of a colewort; and third with purple flowers; all of which come mixed together.”
Suitable Climate
Zone 3 and warmer
Grow as a winter crop in mild-climate areas.
Plant in Full sun.
Varieties
CItation, Cruiser, Early Purple Sprouting, Emperor, Green Comet, Lancelot, Late Purple Sprouting, Minaret, Nine Star, Oasis, Shogun, White Sprouting
About this Plant… Family:-Brassica Genus, species: -oleracea var. botyris
Soil Conditions
Well-drained soil with plenty of calcium: pH 6.7-7.2
Planting Time
Start spring seedlings indoors, about 2 months before the last spring frost. Set out hardened-off transplants in the garden a month before the last frost. Cultivate or mulch and keep the soil evenly moist. Lack of water will stress the plant, which may fail to head or may become vulnerable to insect pests. Sow fall crops directly about 90 days before the first fall frost, or transplant about 60 days before frost.
Sowing Instructions
Vegetable Problems — Data is unavailable
Harvesting
The first and probably the essential thing to remember about harvesting broccoli is that if you want to eat it in its prime, it must be cut before the flower buds open while it is still green and tender and delicious. The large central head is cut with the stem and attached leaves, making a total length of about 8-10 inches. The smaller heads that subsequently sprout are cut when they are green. The length of stems of the smaller heads depends upon the vigor of the plant; usually, they are about 4-6 inches long. Since these small shoots keep on growing in the axils of the leaves, the harvesting continues for a few weeks.
USDA Nutrient — Data is unavailable
Pressure Canning
Cut broccoli into serving-size pieces and boil for 3 minutes. Drain….Pack hot broccoli into hot jars, leaving 1/2 inch headroom. Cover with boiling water, leaving 1/2 inch headroom. Adjust lids, and process in a pressure canner at 10 pounds pressure (240 F). Pints – 30 minutes, Quarts – 35 minutes
Freezing
Freezing is recommended. Blanch 3 minutes in boiling water. Drain, Pack into containers, alternating heads, and stems and leaving no headroom Seal and freeze.
Storage
Late beets can be stored successfully during the winter under proper conditions. However they keep best at temps around freezing, and the temps should never exceed 40 F. Also they must be kept moist, with little air circulation. These conditions require a special storage room in the cellar or an outside storage room, or if neither is available an outside storage pit. The maximum storage period is 4-5 months.
Just because you stay in a small area doesn’t mean you cannot enjoy the health benefits of fresh vegetables. A small garden space shouldn’t restrain you at all; instead, it should make you more creative. The small garden can still give you enough vegetables to feed your family.
You can bring out your creative side by coming up with a garden that also makes your space look amazing. Whether you have a small space or a large garden to use, you can use the space to the maximum. By planting your own vegetable garden, you get to control what you eat as well as the growing process.
What Should You Consider?
Before you set up your vegetable garden, you need to consider a few simple thoughts: size, soil, location, layout, and rainfall.
The Location
You want to set up the garden in an area with plenty of drainage and shade. The garden should receive at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Sunlight exposure is different for various plants, but an average of 6 hours is adequate for the major kinds of vegetables.
One of the hardest decisions to make is choosing the right size for the vegetable garden. If the size is too small, you might end up disappointed with the yield, and if it is too big, you might be overwhelmed with the amount of work.
The amount of space you have available for the garden might limit the kinds of vegetables that you chose. Some vegetables require more space, which means you might not be able to meet the demands of the vegetables. It is therefore crucial that you consider the kinds of vegetables that you plan to grow and make sure they have the same demands.
The Soil
The success of your vegetable garden starts with the right kind of soil. Most vegetables flourish in moist soil with proper drainage that is rich in organic matter. The temperature of the soil should also be suitable to keep the vegetables alive. Use a soil thermometer to monitor the soil temperature.
The Layout
How you plant the vegetables is crucial to the final yield, and it all depends on the vegetables you choose for planting. You can utilize two basic types of planting – row cropping or intensive planting. Row cropping makes use of placing the plants in single rows with space between each row. This works best for big spaces and allows you to use mechanical equipment to remove the weeds.
Intensive cropping uses a raised bed that allows you to group the vegetables in wide bands. The bands are closely placed, reducing the space between the vegetables.
The Tools
To assist in making sure your garden is well tilled, tools such as a rake, shovel, and a garden hose are required. Till your soil with the shovel, rake to a level state and water afterward. There are many stores you can purchase these tools, but be sure to search for CouponMonk for discounts.
Rainfall
Rain is good, especially for your vegetable gardens, however, when the rain is too much; it becomes a problem because it can ruin your garden. Soil can only take so much water when it is maxed out, the water pools, flooding the plants and washing the seeds away. Weeds also grow rampant when the rain is too much, you also find it hard to get into the garden and tend to the plants without sinking into the mud. The end result might be stunted plants and low yield after too much rain.
If your area receives too much rain, you need to find a way to combat soil compaction and turn off the irrigation system. Additionally, you need to take care of the plants so that you prevent decay. Wet weather encourages the abundance of slugs that feed on both decaying and living plants.
The best way to know whether the vegetable garden will flourish is to measure the rainfall in the area. Research various ways on how rainfall is measured and use the methods to know how much rainfall you receive annually.
In Closing
Vegetable gardens offer healthier, readily available meals for the family the whole year long. Plan the garden properly to enjoy all these benefits.
Vegetable Origins Africa Asia Central and S. America Europe /Asia Europe Jamaica North America New Zeland Watermelon Okra Broad bean Cress Lettuce Muskmelon Onion Pea Radish Rhubarb Spinach Cucumber Endive Bush Bean Cucumber Kidney Bean Flint Corn Eggplant Potato Scarlet Runner Bean Sweet Potato Tomato Winter squash Pumpkin Pepper Asparagus Chinese cabbage Water Cress Dandelion Horseradish Cauliflower Carrot Beet Pole […]
Home garden asparagus can be damaged by the asparagus beetle in some areas. If you observe insects feeding on asparagus, contact your local county Extension agent for identification and control recommendations.
Diseases
Asparagus is troubled by some diseases. If plants have rust-colored spots on the stems or branches, ask your county Extension agent what to use.
Harvesting
Harvest vegetable asparagus spears from established beds for about 8 weeks. Do not harvest too soon from new planting. Harvest spears when they are 4 to 10 inches long. To prevent spears from becoming fibrous, harvest at least every other day. The fibrous condition is caused by overmaturity or inadequate fertility. Spears with loosely formed heads are overmature. Cut asparagus spears 1 to 2 inches below the soil level. At least one-half of the length of the spear should be above the ground. Never cut the spear within 2 inches of the crown to avoid damage to the developed buds. Never cut asparagus spears above the ground and allow stubs to remain. Discontinue harvest when spear diameter becomes less than 3/8 of an inch. Some gardeners prefer white or blanched asparagus. This is grown by shading the spears with mounds of soil or mulch to exclude light.
Pack whole spears, tips up, tightly into clean, hot jars. Pack cut pieces as tightly as possible without crushing them. Leave 1/2 inch headroom. Add salt. Cover with boiling water, leaving 1/2 headroom. Process in a pressure canner at 10 pounds pressure (240 F) Pints -25 minutes Quarts – 30 minutes.
Freezing
Blanch for 2-4 minutes depending on the thickness of the stalks. Cool immediately in cold water. Drain …pack into containers, leaving no headroom.
Storage
Asparagus cannot be stored, but it is an excellent canning crop.
Special Thanks to Jerry Parsons and Sam Cotner, Extension Horticulturists Texas Agricultural Extension ServiceEducational programs conducted by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service serve people of all ages, regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, handicap or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Zerle L. Carpenter, Director, Texas Agricultural Extension Service, The Texas A&M University System.Hypertext markup and graphics colorization by Tammy Kohlleppel and Dan Lineberger. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/easygardening/asparagus/garden-themes/vegetable-garden/the-vegetable-guide-asparagus/
There are several forms of vegetables which, while the culture is not specially dissimilar, may yet, for convenience, be divided into five classes: those the edible part of which is produced beneath the surface of the soil and are known as root vegetables; those which set fruit above ground; those whose fruit is produced on vines; such plants as are used entire, as lettuce and the various greens, and those perennial forms which include the asparagus, artichokes, rhubarb and horse radish, and the like.
We will first consider the general culture of the plants which produce heads, pods, ears, or other fruit, and which may be roughly designated as head or pod vegetables.
TOMATOES
Start tomatoes by sowing seed in a hotbed in spring, or start them in flats in the house and plant them in the open ground when all danger of frost is passed. They require well-manured soil, and when there is a limited supply of fertilizer, it will be well to put two or three spadefuls in each hill, spreading it over a couple of square feet of surface, as the tomato makes considerable root growth. Plant in rows, four feet apart each way if no support is to be given, three feet if the plants are to be grown on racks or trellises.
To let a tomato plant spread on the ground and grow as it will is wasteful. During the past ten years perhaps a dozen different methods of growing pruned plants have been tried out. The fruit produced under such natural conditions is inferior in size to that of the pruned plant, is frequently ill-shaped and of uneven ripening; and the fruit that does develop normally is subject to rot and attack by insects.
Records over a number of seasons show the average loss of fruits from such causes to be about 25 percent of the whole.
The tomato is an exceedingly rank grower, and unless its tendency to make a big plant is checked and directed into other channels, it will make about ten times as much herbage as is necessary. Different methods of growth, of course, necessitate different methods of staking.Under home garden conditions the general practice is to provide a six foot stake for each plant and to reduce that plant early in its life to the three strongest branches. This is all right with most varieties but there are exceptions. For example, Ponderosa, the strongest and rankest growing of any, should not be allowed more than two branches for the simple reason that the plant is not strong enough to support all the fruit that three branches would bear. I have seen heavy clusters of Ponderosa ripped down the stems, because the weight was too great for the branches to support. On the other hand, the smaller fruited varieties ( Many-fold, for example) may have four branches trained up the stake.
When it comes to blight resistance here are the best and most distinct types, in order of their relative merit: Globe, purple; Bonny Best, bright red; Manyfold, bright red; John Baer, bright red; Stone, bright red; Coreless, scarlet; Beauty, purple; Magnus, purple; Ponderosa, purple; Earliana, scarlet.
This would seem to indicate that on the whole, the scarlet varieties are more blight-resistant than the purple ones, with the exception of Livingston’s Globe which, as a blight resister, is in a class of its own. Globe is really the variety that has made Florida famous as a producer of perfect tomatoes in recent years.
In the fall, at the approach of hard frost, the green tomatoes may be gathered and placed on racks in a warm, sunny position, where they will continue to ripen for some time, or the plants may be dug up, the roots wrapped in burlap, and hung in a warm, sunny place, where the fruit will ripen very well; I have kept them in the barn until November in this way. Or use may be made of an empty hotbed, in which the green tomatoes are placed on racks or on a bed of straw, and so continue to enjoy them far beyond their usual season.In conclusion here the names of ten sorts of tomatoes that have proven their merit. One dozen plants each of an early pink and purple sort and two dozen plants of two main crop varieties supply all the tomatoes a family of six can eat, with a surplus of 5 bushels for canning under favourable soil and season conditions.
BEANS
Are a tender class of vegetables, and the seed of any varieties should not be planted out until the nights and soil are warm. Usually the middle of May, at the North, will be found to be quite early enough. In cold, wet soil the seed will decay instead of growing, while the opposite is true where the seed is given a warm location and a warm, sandy soil. The soil should be deeply prepared and well enriched with old manure.
The seed of bush varieties should be sown in drills, two feet apart, and the beans dropped two inches apart in the row and covered two inches deep, treading down the earth after planting.If the beans are to be used for string beans or fresh shell beans, they may be planted every two weeks for a succession, but for dried beans to use with pork in winter, should be planted early and kept well cultivated and clean until the pods ripen in the fall.
Beans should not, for best results, be planted in a low, wet place or in too much shade. They must not be worked or handled when wet, as this will cause them to mildew. Therefore a warm, sunny position, where they will dry quickly in the morning, is best.
One quart of bean seed will plant a hundred feet of drill and give sufficient beans for a good-sized family. They may be planted for a succession of string beans up to the fifteenth of August. Pole varieties yield much larger crops than the bush forms, and by training to strings, wire netting, etc., may be planted close up to the garden fence or the poultry yard, or serve as a screen to hide outbuildings or parts of the garden if desired. The expense of poles is, however, avoided by planting only the bush varieties.
The varieties most generally cultivated are the following :
HIGHEST QUALITY LIMA BEANS
In one respect the two great American vegetables, corn and lima beans, are alike—you must grow them yourself, gather them when “just right,” and prepare promptly, or the elusive “quality” will not be there at mealtime. The rich, marrow-like, peculiarly characteristic flavour of lima beans cannot be canned, captured by drying, or gotten hold of in any other way than via the home garden.
Both the tall or climbing, and dwarf or bush limas are of specific usefulness. The dwarf sorts are unquestionably the earlier, but the very much longer branches of the tall sorts bear more pods, and consequently their yield is greater ; and notwithstanding the introduction of very large podded dwarf sorts, the pole limas generally surpass in size both of pods and shelled beans. Where garden space is limited and poles are not available, pole limas may be grown along fences or trellises, thus serving the treble purpose of creating shade, hiding unsightly objects, and yielding food.
As to difference in flavour between bush and pole limas I can truthfully say there is none. A great deal depends at what stage of development the pods are picked and how soon after picking the beans are shelled and cooked. Thirty minutes of cooking may bring out the flavour to perfection while forty-five minutes may neutralize it.
Still, a great leeway is possible in connection with these various factors if you press into service pedigreed quality kinds of proven behaviour; and it is in the endeavour to introduce you to limas that always behave, that I first mention :Fordhook Bush Lima is the largest podded form of the old-fashioned “fat” or potato lima. The pods average 5 inches long, are borne in pairs or double pairs and contain on an average four large, thick, green-skinned beans that truly have no superior in flavour. (Incidentally, here is a “tip”: whenever you see a green-skinned lima, make up your mind that it is far superior in flavour to the white or yellow-skinned bean) . A week to ten days after Fordhook has yielded its first picking, the Burpee-Improved brings us its large, flat pods equal in size to any pole variety. The pods average 5 1/2 inches long and contain on an average 5 beans which, in the green stage, are as large as those of the largest pole limas.
The introduction of these two sorts marked the dawn of a new era in bush limas for, popular as old Burpee’s Bush Lima, Quarter Century, or Wonder Bush are to-day, both Fordhook and Burpee-Improved are bound to supersede as soon as seeds can be produced in sufficient quantity. The third of the really pedigreed bush limas is Extra Early Wilson or Extra Early Giant Bush, a comparatively new corner which is the product of persistent selection for earliness. Its pods do not average any larger than those of Fordhook, and contain flat beans which bulk less, but they are ready for picking from 5 days to a week before any other bush variety with the exception of the old Wood’s Prolific. This however is fairly obsolete.
TALL OR CLIMBING SORTS
As in the case of bush limas, the pole varieties started to make most rapid strides in popular favour after a new variety some twenty years ago almost revolutionized lima bean growing. Large White Lima and its improved form, King of the Garden, were the recognized leaders among pole limas. They required such a long season, however, that in most sections growers had to be satisfied with gathering about half the pods set, for the frost would gather the other half.
Then came Henderson’s Leviathan, marking the first forward step toward shorter seasons of development for pole limas. Its pods are not so large as those of the older kinds, nor are the beans, but within 100 days Leviathan perfects a good portion of the pods that set early, and, where frost stays away for four months, it is a most prodigious yielder of handsome pods, borne in large clusters.Some years ago a specialist on the Pacific Coast started to experiment in selecting pods bearing a majority of green-tinted beans. And four years of constant effort in one direction produced highly gratifying results. In honour of its birthplace, which is the home of all that is good in limas, the new variety was called Carpinteria; and in Carpinteria Lima we have unquestionably the very highest quality pole lima in cultivation today. In general character of pods or bearing qualities it does not differ greatly from Leviathan except that the shelled beans are more elongated and that all of them have the desirable green tint. In season of bearing it will prove slightly earlier than Leviathan, yielding the second picking when Leviathan is just perfecting its first pods.
Truly the leader of them all for size, Burpee’s Giant Podded is actually what its name implies. Monstrous pods 6 to 8 inches long, containing from 5 to 7 beans an inch or more in diameter, are ready to please those who look for size. And notwithstanding these extraordinary dimensions, the young green beans are quite thin-skinned and tender. Where long growing seasons prevail and size is wanted this Giant Podded form will find a ready welcome.
SWEET CORN
Is one of the more tender vegetables the seed of which should not be planted until all danger of frost is passed. This, at the North, will be as late as the twentieth of May, though a chance crop may be planted by May 1st on light, warm soil. One quart of seed will plant two hundred hills, which should be made three feet apart each way. The seed should be planted in slightly raised hills, dropping a number of kernels in each hill to allow for any failing to sprout; after the corn is up, these extra plants should be pulled out, leaving three plants in a hill. The extra early sorts may be planted in rows two and a half feet apart, and the hills eighteen inches apart. Plant the seed half an inch deep, and either tramp upon it or pat it down firmly with the hoe. Where the ground is not very heavily manured, a tablespoonful of phosphate may be placed in each hill with benefit.When the corn has attained three or more feet in height, it will be well to go through the rows and pull out all side shoots and those which will not set ear, allowing the entire strength of the plant to go to the making of corn.
The green shoots removed makes excellent feed for the horse, cow, or pig, and is greatly relished by them. Corn is, of all garden vegetables, the most economical to grow, as there is absolutely no waste, such corn as may not be used for the table making the finest feed for the poultry in winter, especially, for the fattening of cockerels, and the cornstalks, if cut before they are too dry, makes excellent fodder for stock of any kind.
Corn should be cultivated thoroughly and constantly as long as it is safe to work among it; this will admit of half a dozen cultivations each way at least, and at the end of this time the ground should be in the condition that few, if any, weeds will appear.
Here is a list of varieties that will provide ears of top-notch quality throughout the season. Where space permits, plant the entire assortment for perfect succession. If room for only one sort, “stick” to Golden Bantam.
CABBAGE
At the North cabbages are usually started in coldframes or hotbeds early in March and planted out as soon as danger of killing frosts is passed. They succeed best in a deep, rich soil, heavily manured, and in some localities cannot be grown successfully on the same ground year after year; in other sections this does not seem to make any difference, and in my own garden they have grown in the same spot for several successive seasons.
They should be well cultivated and kept free from weeds. The cabbage worm is very troublesome in some sections, but in the private garden need not make any serious trouble. As soon as the little white butterflies appear, the plants should be watched for the presence of eggs, and when these are found and removed, the worms are disposed of ; the eggs will be found in a small yellow patch on the underside of the leaves; they are quite conspicuous, and easily removed.
Early cabbage is sometimes given to cracking as soon as ripe, and must be used at once, as the new growth commences then. To prevent this, the roots may be cut off on one side of the plant as soon as the head has attained its growth and the plant tipped over on its side; this checks growth, and the head will then keep for some time.
For late cabbage, seed is sown in the open ground from April to June, and the plants transplanted into permanent rows early in July, setting the plants in rows two and a half feet apart and two feet apart in the rows, which is the space allowed the early cabbage. The cabbage fly is likely to trouble the young seedling cabbage plants, and they should be dusted with wood ashes, air-slacked lime, tobacco dust, or road dust, as soon as the plants are above ground; this should be done while yet the plants are wet with dew in the morning.
CABBAGES BEST FOR GENERAL USE
A packet of cabbage seed contains more than enough to raise all the plants you and your neighbour can use. For the average home garden, a dozen plants of an early and of a midseason sort and two dozen each of a late and a Savoy cabbage fill all requirements.
CAULIFLOWERS
Are given practically the same culture as cabbages, starting the plants in the hotbed in April and planting out when danger of heavy frost is past.Particular attention must be paid to the young plants for the first week, as they are very liable to be cut off by cut-worms. When this occurs, the only remedy is to replace the plants with others from the coldframe.Spring outdoor-started plants will not give very early cauliflowers, but will come on in July and August, and are used for pickling as well as for the table. Where it is desired to grow cauliflowers for the summer use on the table, it will be necessary to start the plants very early in the hotbeds, or in the South start them in the fall and winter in coldframes, and plant out as early in spring as the ground can be worked. The wintering in cold-frames hardens them, so that this early planting is possible, which is not the case with the tender greenhouse or hotbed plants. At the North, plants of the cabbage and cauliflower cannot well be kept over in coldframes.
If there is a rather wet, low spot in the garden, it may be used for the cauliflower better than for almost any other vegetable.
The cabbage worm often causes serious trouble with the cauliflowers, and as soon as the little white butterflies are seen hovering about the plants, search must be made for the eggs and these destroyed. They will be found on the underside of the leaves—a little patch of yellow eggs—and are easily removed.As soon as the curd, or head, is set and is as large as a teacup, the plant must be tied up by drawing the tips of the leaves together and tying them with a string. This must never be done, however, when it is wet with rain or dew. Mid-day, on a bright day, is the best time for the work. If tied up when the leaves or curd is wet, the heads will decay; if not tied up, a second growth will quickly start and ruin the heads.Unlike cabbage, cauliflowers cannot be kept during winter, being very perishable, and must be used within a day or two of attaining perfection, or the flavour is impaired. Cauliflower is one of the most delicious of table vegetables and should come into general use; it is far more delicate in flavour than cabbage, and one of the most attractive vegetables which appears on the table.
Very good cauliflower may be raised by the ordinary culture given cabbage—cauliflowers averaging eight or nine inches across—but to grow really fine heads, a foot or fifteen inches in diameter, snowy white, and perfect, requires special culture. To this end the plants must have an abundant water supply during the dry months of the summer, watering every other day, and cultivating between times. Liquid manure should be given at least once a week, and twice a week will be better. With this extra care, cauliflowers may be produced that will be the envy of one’s neighbors.Cauliflowers do better during cool weather, and are at their best in the late days of September and October. A light frost seems to benefit rather than injure them, and tying the leaves over the curd protects them from even a severe frost, but when a frost has cut the leaves badly, the curds should be gathered and used, as decay sets in very soon after.
PEAS
Sow peas as early as the ground can be worked in spring; old gardeners usually claim that they like to have the last snow find their peas in the ground; certain it is that peas like a cool soil, and often fail to germinate when the weather and soil are warm. The dwarf varieties are usually preferred for the private garden, but will not bear as heavily as the taller sorts; but as these require brushing, the difference in labour is by many considered to more than offset their extra productiveness. Poultry netting makes ideal support for the tall growing sorts, and if rolled up and stood in a dry place after the peas are gathered, will last a lifetime.
The wrinkled varieties are far ahead in tender sweetness of the smooth varieties, but as they are not as hardy, they should be planted in well-drained warm, sandy ground for the first planting.
Peas may be planted for a succession every two weeks up to the middle of June, then should be discontinued until the middle of August, when sowings of the extra-early varieties may be made for a late crop.In planting, sow in double rows, six to eight inches apart, the rows from two to three feet apart. Plant the seed four inches deep and tread down the rows, going over the rows lightly with the lawn rake when all the seeds are in. This deep planting prevents mildew, and the seed is less apt to be disturbed by moles.
The main crop of peas, which are grown throughthe warmer months, may be planted to advantage on a heavier soil; they should be kept cultivated and free from weeds and the earth drawn up against the vines a couple of times before maturing. This is all the culture required, peas being one of the easiest vegetables to grow.Here is a list of varieties that have been called “the Aristocrats” among peas. They are sure to perform as promised below, on the basis of many years of trials.
OKRA
This vegetable is grown for the green pods which are used in soups, to which it imparts a rich gelatinous quality, and are as easily grown as peppers, requiring about the same culture. The seed should not be sown until the ground is warm—about themiddle of May; it should be sown rather thickly in drills, three feet apart, sowing the seed an inch deep and thinning when large enough to stand ten inches apart in the rows.The pods must be used while young and tender, as when fully grown they are very tough, though they may still be used to flavour soups.
Keep well hoed and free from weeds.Put the young and tender pods of long, white okra in salted boiling water in granite, porcelain, or a tin-lined saucepan, as contact with iron will blacken them; boil fifteen minutes, remove the stems, and serve with pepper, salt, butter, and, if preferred, vinegar.
PEPPERS
Are grown from seed started early in April in the hotbed or in flats in the house and planted out when all danger of frost is passed. They require rich, well-drained soil and a sunny situation. Where the supply of manure is limited, a spoonful of phosphate may be placed in each hill as the plants are set, and more be scattered about the plants and hoed or raked in until the growth is satisfactory. Set out in rows two feet apart, setting the plants eighteen inches apart in the rows.
The culture that will produce good corn, cabbage, or tomatoes will be right for peppers, as they are of easy culture. Hen manure may be used with this plant, as it is one of the few plants which is not injured by the application of so strong a fertilizer.
The plants come into bearing in July, and if the first peppers are removed while green, the succeeding fruits will come forward more rapidly than if the peppers are allowed to ripen.Chinese Giant, Magnum Dulce, and Sweet Spanish Giant are the best of the large sweet peppers, the latter being a long pepper, from two to three inches wide and six to eight long; this variety is rather more shapely for stuffed mangoes than the bull-nosed varieties. The large squat peppers are excellent for table use, being prepared in various ways.Several of the hot and pickle varieties of peppers are both useful and ornamental, the Celestial or Christmas variety being especially ornamental.
These may be grown in pots on the kitchen window and the fruit enjoyed throughout the winter. They are an attractive addition to pickled cauliffowers, onions, acid the like.The Tabasco is an especially beautiful pepper, bearing its fruit in sprays of brightest red, which are extremely fiery and pungent, and the seeds may be used for making pepper vinegar instead of the cayenne.
EGG PLANT
This is one of the few vegetables requiring special care in cultivation. The seed should be started in a warm hotbed in April, and as soon as the plants are three inches high they should be potted off into small pots and plunged back into the soil of the beds. They may be transplanted into the open ground when the weather is quite settled and the soil and nights warm, or they may be repotted into larger pots and set out in the open ground the first of June.
Egg plants require a great deal of heat at the start, and if they receive a setback at this time, rarely recover, so that every effort should be made to keep them from being chilled, while at the same time giving them the necessary amount of ventilation. It is well in planting the seed of egg-plants to reserve a portion in case the first sowing should fail and a later one need to be made.
After the plants are of a size to be planted out there is little difference in the culture accorded them and that given other vegetables, but they should not be allowed to suffer for water, and a weekly dose of liquid manure after the plants bloom will be of benefit.When about a foot high, the earth should be drawn up about the stem in cultivating. The plants are often seriously injured by the potato-bug, which eats the stem of the blossom at the point where it curves over, seldom, to any extent, the leaves of the plant. Whenever the bug appears early in the season, the plants should be gone over daily to catch and destroy it, or they may be sprayed with Paris green, which at this stage will do no harm. The destruction of these first blossoms will make two or three weeks’ difference in the maturing of the first crop and must be met energetically.
These first bugs which appear lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves, and these must be looked for and destroyed and little subsequent trouble will be experienced.Curiously enough, for a plant which starts out in life so peculiarly sensitive to cold, the egg-plant is not hurt by light fall frost, and I have gathered and marketed very fair eggs long after the frost had destroyed tomatoes and other garden stuff.The best variety to raise is the Early Black Beauty or the Improved New York.
The modern beet as such was not apparently known in ancient times. There is a story that when the Greeks paid homage to Apollo they served him beetroots on a silver platter, but the first recorded specific reference to beets is in the third century in Rome. They were mentioned in 1390 in some old English cooking recipes. Beets are natives of Europe and North Africa and were originally found near the sea in southern Europe and around the coasts of the Mediterranean as far east as the Caspian Sea and Persia. The name beet comes from the fact that when the seed pods swell they look like the Greek letter beta.
About this Plant… Family: -Beta Genus, species: -vulgaris.
Suitable Climate
Beets thrive in almost any climate, but where summers are hot – Zone 8 and warmer
Grow them as a fall, late winter and early spring crop.
Albinia Verecunda, Brupee’s Golden, Cylindra, Detroit Little Ball, Detroit Lora, MacGregor’s Favorite, Mammoth Long, Monogram, Monopoly, Red Ace, Regala
Soil Conditions
Beets require light, well drained soil which has not been freshly manured, and open positions.
Planting Time
Seed should be sown in February or March and plants thinned to around 2 inches apart.
Sowing Instructions
Vegetable Problems — Data is unavailble
Harvesting
Harvesting is simply a matter of pulling the beets out of the ground. When you remove the tops, leave an inch or two attached to the root so that it will not bleed. The early beets should be harvested when they are small, 1.5 inches in diameter or at the most not more than 2 inches. When they are any larger, the taste is undesired. The late beets are sometimes allowed to get as large as 3 inches in diameter and beets for storage are allowed to stay in the ground until just before heavy frost.
USDA Nutrient — Press link
Pressure Canning
Pack hot beets into hot jars, leaving 1/2 inch headroom. Cover with boiling water, leaving 1/2 inch headroom. Adjust lids, and process in a pressure canner at 10 pounds pressure (240 F). Pints – 30 minutes, Quarts – 35 minutes
Freezing
Freeze only very young, tender beets, as the texture and flavor of larger ones change during freezing. Prepare as for canning. Chill and pack prepared beets into freezing containers, leaving 1/2 inch headroom if sliced or diced. No headroom is required for whole beets. Seal and freeze.
Storage
Late beets can be stored successfully during the winter under proper conditions. However they keep best at temps around freezing, and the temps should never exceed 40 F. Also they must be kept moist, with little air circulation. These conditions require a special storage room in the cellar or an outside storage room, or if neither is available an outside storage pit. The maximum storage period is 4-5 months.
Are you ready to explore the fascinating world of boneset (Eupatorium spp.)? Read along as we give you the knowhow on growing and caring for these plants in your garden.
In our comprehensive care guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about bonesets, from intriguing origins and fascinating history to practical tips on cultivation and propagation.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
Imagine the joy of nurturing your very own thriving boneset plants in your garden, where each delicate blossom tells a story of nature’s beauty.
We’ll share essential insights on how to grow these plants successfully, revealing the tried-and-true techniques that will ensure your garden flourishes with vibrant colors and breathtaking blooms.
But it doesn’t stop there! We’ll guide you through the art of pruning and maintenance, helping you shape your plants into stunning focal points that will leave your neighbors in awe.
Worried about pesky pests and stubborn diseases? Fear not! Our expert advice will empower you to effectively manage these challenges, keeping your Eupatorium healthy and thriving.
Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting your horticultural journey, our personal tips and tricks will empower you to create a garden masterpiece with boneset.
So, grab your gardening gloves and join us!
What Are Bonesets?
Eupatorium is a genus of flowering plants that brings together a diverse group known as bonesets or thoroughworts.
Within this genus, you will discover a wide range of species, each with unique characteristics and contributions to the botanical world.
Boneset plants are known for their distinct appearance and charming presence in the garden. These plants produce clusters of small, fluffy flowers that form eye-catching inflorescences, featured on tall and sturdy stems.
As the flowers fade, they often give way to small, dry fruits or seed heads, adding an interesting element to the plant’s overall aesthetic.
You may notice that they look very similar to joe-pye weed (Eutrochium spp.). Joe pye-weed was formerly classified in the Eupatorium genus, and in 2012 was reclassified as Eutrochium.
Together, the flowers and fruit of boneset plants create a visually appealing display that attracts pollinators and adds beauty to any garden or landscape.
Species in the Eupatorium genus are members of the Asteraceae family, commonly referred to as the Aster family, and the genus contains approximately 60 species.
These plants are native to temperate areas of the Northern Hemisphere, though some species can be found in tropical South America, Mexico, and the West Indies.
Most of these plants are herbaceous perennials, but some tropical species can grow into tree-like or shrubby forms.
Of the many species that exist within this genus, the most common boneset known and grown in home gardens is E. perfoliatum.
Cultivation and History
The Eupatorium genus was named after the Persian king Mithridates VI, also known as Mithridates Eupator Dionysus.
Around 120-63 BCE, he was the king of Pontus, a region which is now part of Turkey.
However, the exact reasoning behind using his name for this genus is not entirely clear and may involve some speculation.
The broader reason for this name association involves the way in which the king fits into the herbal lore regarding a concoction called mithridate, which was used historically as a poison antidote.
His story includes experimentation with a vast array of poisonous plants to develop immunity that could possibly have included Eupatorium species.
Some suggest that these plants were named after him in connection with some poisonous Eupatorium species that existed within the genus, such as white snakeroot, E. rugosum. This species has since been removed from this genus and renamed Agertina altissima.
The most commonly known species of boneset is E. perfoliatum. Also known as common or American boneset, feverwort, or thoroughwort, it is known for its medicinal uses as a diaphoretic and analgesic.
It was commonly used in alleviating fevers or cold symptoms, and healing broken bones. Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, Native Americans used this herb as well, and considered it a cure-all for many ailments.
When gardeners and herbalists think of the term “boneset,” this species is the one that comes to mind. You may be wondering whether a plant can be medicinal when it comes from a genus known to include poisonous species. Well, good question.
This species of boneset is known to be mildly toxic when ingested in large doses due to the presence of pyrrolizidine alkaloids. But at the same time, this is also one of the reasons why this species is valued for its medicinal qualities.
While it’s a favorite to many herbalists, some recommend staying away until more research is available regarding safe dosage.
Propagation
Eupatorium species can be propagated in a couple of ways, mainly by division and sowing seed.
The specific propagation method selected may vary depending on the species you are working with.
From Seed
To propagate boneset from seed, you must first collect ripe seeds from a mature plant or purchase them from a reputable supplier.
Suppose you are in the perfect place at the right time and find E. perfoliatum growing wild in your area.What an opportunity to collect some seeds!
The seeds naturally ripen about a month after flowering and should be collected when the heads are split and dry, and the seeds begin to float away.
Late in the season, look out for fuzzy flowers that have started to turn brown – this means the seeds are ready to be collected.
If collected a bit earlier, you can dry the seed heads by spreading them out in a protected place where they won’t blow away, or you can place them in an open paper bag for approximately one to two weeks until they have dried out completely.
Shake to remove the seeds from the dry flower heads.
It is okay if the fluff remains attached, as it will not affect germination. Store these seeds in a dry, cool place until you are ready to sow them.
If you choose to sow directly into the ground, you will want to do this in the late fall to provide a period of cold stratification.
If choosing to plant in the spring instead, mix the seeds with some moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 60 days before sowing outdoors.
Sow seeds one to three feet apart and 1/8 of an inch deep in the soil. Water them in well, and maintain soil moisture in the spring.
Seeds can also be started indoors. Fill a flat with seed-starting mix and scatter your seeds onto the surface of the soil.
Slightly compress the soil and lightly moisten it. Place in bright, indirect light and provide consistent temperatures of 70 to 85°F.
You should expect to see seeds germinate in around two to three months, maintaining soil moisture during this time.
Indoor seedlings may be transplanted outside as soon as they have reached several inches in height.
Be sure to harden them off to outdoor conditions first, gradually increasing exposure over the course of about a week.
From Cuttings
Softwood cuttings will root quite easily, usually within a few weeks. It’s best to take cuttings when plants are not flowering, in late spring or early summer.
Dip cut ends in rooting hormone if you wish, and plant in a pot or tray filled with a well-draining potting medium. A mix of perlite and peat moss works well.
These need the same light exposure and temperature range as what’s required for seed germination. Water them in, and maintain soil moisture.
When your expected frost date has passed in your area, rooted cuttings can be transplanted directly into the soil.
From Root Divisions
When plants have matured, they can be divided in the fall as they go dormant, or in spring as shoots appear at the base of the plant.
Using a shovel or spade, carefully cut through the crown (the base of the plant) and the fibrous mass between two stem buds. You will want to choose a section with one intact bud, which will grow into a new shoot, and a cluster of roots attached to it.
After you have selected a section, gently separate it from the main plant by cutting through the roots.
Immediately replant this new division at the same depth, and keep it watered well until established.
From Seedlings/Transplanting
Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be transplanted into moist potting mix.
Since bonesets spread when they grow, they will need a large container about 12 to 15 inches in diameter with drainage holes.
Wait to plant out until nighttime temperatures remain above 65°F. Seedlings may take up to a year before they are large enough to be transplanted outdoors permanently.
For planting in the ground, space transplants about 16 inches apart for smaller bonesets, or 30 to 54 inches apart for larger species.
How to Grow
In USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8, bonesets grow as perennials. They can be planted in full sun to part shade.
Depending on the species, they are best planted in moist, well-drained soils and can grow in chalk, clay, loam, or sandy soils.
Since sandy soil drains quickly, be sure to amend it before planting with water-retentive organic materials such as compost.
They prefer a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.0 and constant moisture. If you ever wonder if your boneset needs water, you can use the fingertip test.
Do this by inserting your finger about an inch deep in the soil – if it’s dry, water it. Too simple, right? Do not let your water-loving boneset dry out completely!
Growing Tips
If growing in sandy soil, provide extra water or amend with organic materials.
Bonesets love to be planted in damp areas of the landscape and close to ponds and wetlands.
These plants perform best in soils with only average fertility.
Pruning and Maintenance
Some gardeners recommend cutting plants back to the ground in the fall, even though the above-ground foliage will die in winter.
This decision often boils down to your maintenance preferences and aesthetic purposes.
You can go ahead and cut back plants once dieback occurs as the cold weather sets in, or some gardeners will also wait and cut them down to the ground in early spring.
Overall, it is recommended to prune plants back again in the summer before they flower, as this encourages abundant blooms and new growth.
Keep in mind that deadheading will not help this plant rebloom, though it will help control seed spread and plant overgrowth. Bonesets focus on seed production rather than continuous flowering.
Bonesets do not have to be fertilized and they can grow in average, ordinary soil. Giving too much fertilizer can actually cause stems to fall over due to leggy growth.
If you do apply fertilizer, do so once in early spring when you see new growth starting to emerge. I like to dissolve a balanced, granular fertilizer in water for 24 hours to create a diluted solution, and apply that to the soil surrounding the base of plants.
Make sure to add water before and after you apply the fertilizer to help it to settle in.
Species to Select
When it comes to selecting the right species of boneset for your garden, you have a range of options to choose from.
Each species brings its own unique characteristics and qualities that can enhance your garden landscape.
Here are some top Eupatorium species that are well-suited for different gardening preferences and purposes.
Cannabinum
Native to Europe, this wildflower is popular in England, and its leaves resemble those of hemp. This is where it gets its nickname, hemp agrimony.
Loved for its beautiful, tiny pink flowers that appear from summer into fall, this perennial grows up to four feet tall and spreads about four feet wide.
The aesthetics of this flower go well in a mixed herbaceous border, along a pond edge, or in a cottage garden scheme.
E. perfoliatum forms clumps of unbranched stems, spreads up to four feet wide, and grows up to six feet tall. This species is moderately deer resistant.
Lygus species, also known as tarnished plant bugs, will use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to feed on the reproductive structures and plant sap of your boneset.
Their presence can cause damage to leaves, buds, flowers, and developing fruits. This damage can manifest as distorted growth, necrotic spots, or stippling of the foliage.
One of the best parts about nature that any gardener can appreciate is the circle of life seen in the form of natural enemies and biological control.
Sometimes we can be hands-off and allow nature to do its job.
Like other insects, lygus bugs have natural predators such as parasitic wasps and predatory insects, which will help keep populations from reaching pest levels.
Sawflies
These insects feed on the leaves, causing skeletonized foliage or defoliation. They will show up for a feast without ever sending you an invite.
While this is one party you don’t want to have to show up to, infestations will not cause severe enough damage to your plant regarding health, but they will affect your plant’s appearance.
Fortunately, you have plenty of ways to get rid of these partygoers.
If you are up to it, a simple crush can eliminate them, or drop them in insecticidal soapy water.
This homemade sawfly killer combines four teaspoons of neem oil, a gallon of water, and a little liquid soap.
You can also spray some on the leaves and other affected areas. Make sure to reapply after it rains.
Best Uses
Bonesets are highly valuable plants that serve multiple purposes in the garden.
They not only attract and support a diverse range of pollinators but also contribute to the creation of beautiful rain gardens, effective erosion control, and various other landscape applications.
With their versatile nature, they can be cultivated in different settings, making them suitable for a wide range of garden styles.
They can be incorporated into borders, native plant gardens, meadows, prairies, and wildflower gardens, adding both aesthetic appeal and ecological value.
Additionally, bonesets can thrive in containers, woodland gardens, water gardens, and even herb gardens, adapting well to diverse growing conditions.
Beyond their ornamental and ecological benefits, bonesets also possess medicinal properties, which are of interest to gardeners and herbalists.
Their historical use in traditional medicine has led to their inclusion in herbal practices today, where they are valued for their potential therapeutic qualities.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Perennial herbaceous plants and woody shrubs
Flower/Foliage Color:
Pink, white/emerald green
Native to:
Temperate areas of the Northern Hemisphere
Maintenance:
Low
Hardiness (USDA Zones):
3-8
Tolerance:
Disease, insect pests, a variety of soil types
Bloom Time:
July-October
Soil Type:
Chalk, clay, loam, sandy
Exposure:
Full sun to partial shade
Soil pH:
6.5-7.0
Time to Maturity:
1 year (from seed)
Soil Drainage:
Moist, well-draining
Spacing:
1-3 feet(seed), 16-54 inches (transplants)
Attracts:
Bees, butterflies, other beneficial insects; birds
Planting Depth:
1/8 inch (seed), root ball level with or slightly above soil (transplants)
Companion Planting:
Aster, green coneflower, interrupted fern, joe-pye weed, palm sedge, royal fern, swamp milkweed
Height:
Up to 6 feet
Uses:
Beds and borders, bog gardens, cottage gardens, meadows, ponds, prairie gardens, rain gardens, streams
Spread:
Up to 4 feet
Family:
Asteraceae
Water Needs:
Moderate
Genus:
Eupatorium
Common Pests and Disease:
Aphids, flea beetles, lygus bugs, sawflies, spider mites; root rot
The remarkable genus of bonesets offers beauty, versatility, and benefits to both gardeners and the environment.
With its attractive flowers, ability to attract pollinators, suitability for various garden settings, and resilient and low-maintenance nature, boneset is an attractive choice for many garden enthusiasts.
Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced gardener, incorporating boneset into your landscape can bring joy and contribute to the overall health of your garden ecosystem.
So, why not give boneset a try and experience the wonders it can bring to your outdoor space?
Do you have experience with bonesets already? Please comment below, we’d love to hear from you!
Are you a big fan of wildflowers? Then check out these articles next:
Summer officially arrived this week and Remodelista was ready to welcome it. Here are some summery home essentials we spotted on the site. Linen Bedding Hanging Rattan Chair Cheery Textiles Plus: A Skincare Creator’s Rescued 1830s House in the Catskills, Filled with Plants Trend Alert: Fluted Glass for Just-Enough Transparency Ship Shape: How To Create […]
Ornamental sky blue aster, Symphyotrichum oolentangiense, formerly Aster azureus, is a native herbaceous perennial that readily naturalizes in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8.
It toils away all season long, forming branching foliage. Then it bursts into masses of blue, daisy-like flowers, just in time to bridge the gap between summer’s waning blooms and fall’s spectacular leaf show.
This member of the Asteraceae family has an upright growth habit. Dense basal foliage thins out along branching stems that culminate in loose, cone-shaped floral clusters.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
Flower heads are approximately one inch in diameter and consist of a single layer of sparsely arranged blue rays surrounding a yellow center disc.
The shade of blue may vary from deep to pale, or it may be slightly purple.
In this article, you’ll learn how to grow and care for vigorous sky blue aster in your outdoor living space.
Cultivation and History
Listed as an endangered species in New York, sky blue aster is prized by native plant enthusiasts.
According to the New York Natural Heritage Program, a botanist by the name of John Leonard Riddell was the first to name the lovely blue flower he found growing by the Olentangy River in Ohio, in 1835.
He identified it as Aster oolentangiensis, misspelling the river reference. Later it was reclassified Aster azureus as a member of the Aster genus, which contained over 500 species at the time.
During the 1990s, research revealed that the US native asters have their own unique evolutionary history, and as such they were reclassified into different genera.
Of the “new” genera created, the largest of these is Symphyotrichum. Today we know the sky blue aster as S. oolentangiense.
These changes illustrate a fine tuning of aster nomenclature and a reinstatement of the original geographic reference.
Propagation
To cultivate sky blue aster in your garden, you can sow seeds, take cuttings, or divide existing plants.
From Seed
Because this is a native species, you may rest assured that if you collect seeds at season’s end, provided they are viable, they will produce exact replicas of the parent plant from which they came.
Start seeds indoors about four weeks before the last average frost date in your area. It’s recommended to use seed-starter peat pots that can be planted in their entirety to minimize root disruption. Sow 2-3 seeds 1/4 inch deep in each pot.
Keep the soil lightly moist, but not saturated. Use a heat mat if necessary, to maintain an even temperature of approximately 70°F – the seeds should germinate in 10-14 days at this temperature.
Once the seedlings have at least two sets of true leaves, and all danger of frost has passed, you can start hardening them off in preparation for planting.
To do this, place them outdoors in a location protected from wind, and over the course of a week, gradually leave them out for longer periods before transplanting.
Alternatively, you can direct sow in the garden after the last spring frost. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in a full sun location.
Some gardeners have also had success sowing seeds in fall. They overwinter in the ground, go dormant, and germinate in spring when temperatures warm up.
You can thin your seedlings to 24 inches apart when they have 2-3 sets of true leaves.
From Cuttings
Another way to start plants is to use clean, sharp shears to take soft tip cuttings from mature plants in spring. Take a 2- to 5-inch cutting, remove the lower leaves, then dip the cut end in powdered rooting hormone.
Place the cutting in a mix of sand and vermiculite or perlite, and keep it in a bright location indoors, out of direct sun. Roots should develop in one to two months, and they can then be transplanted into the garden.
From Divisions
In addition, you can divide existing plants. Carefully dig one up and slice straight down through the roots with a clean, sharp shovel. Remove the “division,” and transplant it elsewhere.
This is best done in the spring after all risk of frost has passed.
You may also find mature plants or seedlings in season at a local nursery. Simply transplant them to the garden as soon as possible after purchase, preferably in the cool morning hours, to avoid heat stress.
Plant seedlings or transplants at the same depth as the root ball.
How to Grow
You’re going to love this plant’s easy-going temperament. It prefers full sun but tolerates light shade, and grows in any type of soil, provided it drains well.
Its preferred soil pH is slightly acidic, but anything in the 5.5 to 7.5 range is acceptable. Conduct a soil test, and follow the recommendations in your report.
Mature dimensions are 24 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide. Allow 24 inches between plants for optimal airflow.
You can plant in the ground or in large containers. For container growing, choose a pot with a diameter of about 18 inches. This species is known to thrive in shallow, rocky soil, so a pot depth of 12 inches should be adequate.
Once established, plants do well with about an inch of water per week. Use a rain gauge to determine if you need to provide supplemental water.
These plants exhibit a fair amount of drought tolerance, and it’s better to err on the side of being too dry rather than too wet. Standing water can cause root rot.
However, container plants are likely to require supplemental water, as pots dry out faster than the ground. Adding a layer of mulch over the soil in containers is an excellent way to help with moisture retention.
As for fertilizer, I tend to stay away from it with native plants that are known to be vigorous growers.
But amending with a dose of a slow-release, balanced granular product, such as 10-10-10 (NPK), at planting time and each spring thereafter is an option that some gardeners have adopted.
If you have amended your soil with compost prior to planting, extra fertilizer is unnecessary.
Growing Tips
Like many native plants, S. oolentangiense is easy to establish in the garden, especially when you give it a solid start by:
Choosing a location with full sun to light shade.
Adjusting your soil’s pH if necessary, as indicated by a soil test.
Providing even moisture during the germination and seedling stages.
Watering established plants if rainfall is less than one inch per week, especially container plants.
Transplanting seedlings and mature nursery plants in the early morning hours.
You can also deadhead spent blossoms to inhibit self-sowing. And every three years or so, you may want to divide your plants to reduce density, increase airflow, and contain spreading.
Whether you adopt a hands-off or hands-on approach, at season’s end you may cut down the stalks, or leave them in place for wildlife habitat and winter interest.
Native plants usually hold their own against weeds, however, this is another area where you can choose to take action or simply leave things alone.
Minimizing weed growth around plants reduces competition for water and creates a less appealing environment for disease-carrying insects. Keeping weeds at bay also helps to ensure adequate airflow.
Where to Buy
Easy to grow and maintain, the loose blossom clusters and moderate height of S. oolentangiense make it an excellent mid-border filler.
It delivers a texturally-rich vertical background for shorter specimens and ground covers throughout the summer, when it’s green, and into the fall, when it’s flush with blooms.
In addition, this clumping species provides valuable habitat for the beneficial insects, birds, and butterflies that visit your garden as the growing season comes to a close.
As a native plant, S. oolentangiense is not prone to problems with insects or diseases. However, sometimes rainy summer weather can have an adverse effect on dense plants, causing a buildup of humidity, the breeding ground for powdery mildew.
At the first sign of grayish leaves after a wet spell, apply an organic fungicide according to the package instructions, or prune away affected stalks by cutting them at their base.
If you have a problem with powdery mildew on mature, well established plants, you might consider dividing them to increase airflow.
Apply an organic insecticidal soap if you notice tiny, green, hopping insects and punctured leaves.
Yellowing and deformity may indicate the presence of this incurable condition, and warrant the destruction of affected plants.
Best Uses
One way to showcase this blossom-laden, texturally-rich perennial is to give it room to spread naturally, along rustic paths, fences, and property perimeters.
Another is to give it a job as middle-height anchor in a garden bed or border, filling gaps between lower-story ground covers such as sweet alyssum and seasonal favorites like chrysanthemum, Montauk daisy, and strawflower, and shrubs like azalea and hydrangea.
Or, interplant it with goldenrod, New York and New England aster, red valerian, and speedwell for a butterfly meadow.
S. oolentangiense is an excellent choice for erosion control, as its root system consists of ground-hugging rhizomes that keep soil from washing down gravelly slopes. It’s also able to withstand a fair amount of salt exposure.
And as a drought-tolerant native plant, it’s ideal for xeriscaping, a landscape style focused on low-resource, minimal maintenance plantings.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Herbaceous perennial flowering plant
Flower / Foliage Color:
Various shades of blue; green
Native to:
Southeast Canada to northeast Mexico
Maintenance:
Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
3-8
Tolerance:
Drought, poor soil, salt
Bloom Time / Season:
Late summer to fall
Soil Type:
Average, rocky soil
Exposure:
Full sun to part shade
Soil pH:
Slightly acidic, 5.5-7.5
Spacing:
24 inches
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
Seeds 1/4 inch; transplants same depth as pot
Attracts:
Bees, birds, butterflies, and other beneficial insects
Height:
24-36 inches
Companion Planting:
Azalea, chrysanthemum, goldenrod, hydrangea, Montauk daisy, New England and New York aster, speedwell, sweet alyssum, red valerian
Spread:
18-24 inches
Uses:
Borders, erosion control, mass plantings, naturalized plantings, xeriscaping
Growth Rate:
Fast
Family:
Asteraceae
Water Needs:
Dry to moderate
Genus:
Symphyotrichum
Pests & Diseases:
Aster yellows, powdery mildew
Species:
oolentangiense
Sky Blue Aster Fits the Bill
If your late summer-to-fall landscape is just begging for color, texture, and moderate height, choose sky blue aster to do the job.
As a native perennial, it requires minimal water and maintenance, and once established, mostly fends for itself.
With its rhizomes and self-sowing habit, it readily naturalizes, for friendly hedgerows, border gardens, and open meadows with masses of blooms.
SUMMER HAS just officially arrived, and with it a whole new to-do list of tasks aimed at keeping the garden going in the best possible shape all season long. We are succession-sowing vegetables, of course, as the spinach and early salads fade, and probably already pulled the pansies in favor of summer annuals in the pots.
But there’s always more to do in other parts of the garden, too.
On the list are some strategic summer pruning tasks, and a likewise strategic plan for deadheading or otherwise reducing self-sowers (like celandine poppy, Stylophorum diphyllum, above) so there’s not too much of a good thing, for instance. Plus there are perennials in need of haircuts.
My friend Ken Druse, author of 20 garden books and a longtime gardener in New Jersey, calls a lot of it not full-scale cleanup exactly, but editing. And that’s our topic today, with his help.
Ken Druse: Oh, Margaret, you’ve made such wonderful promises. Can I go now?
Margaret: O.K., bye. It’s all done. Yay.
Ken: Oh, boy.
Margaret: Oh, my goodness. Well, I call June the month of the shaggies, like it’s a dance or something, “the shaggies,” [laughter] because it’s like things spring went over the hill, right?
Ken: Spring? Well, I thought May was really long and slow, and June is like gone.
Margaret: Yeah, yeah. And things can look shaggy and need a haircut, but it’s sort of like “where to begin?” because we already did the big cleanup, and we know we have another one at the end of the season. But this is something different. Like you go say “editing,” it’s like a fine-tuning, right?
Ken: Yeah. Perhaps it’s the first or second fine-tuning of the season. It doesn’t really ever stop, but I know what you’re saying. There’s a lot of things that are happening right now that need our attention.
Margaret: Well, for instance, if you have spring blooming perennials, which a lot of people do, especially both of us are Northeastern gardeners, and it’s a popular time of the year with a lot of things that bloom earlier on and bulbs, you have a lot of stuff that’s faded, herbaceous stuff that’s faded. So that’s one layer of tidying or whatever. So maybe that’s the most familiar and the most obvious, me to start there. What are some of the things-
Ken: What do you mean by dated?
Margaret: Faded. Faded.
Ken: Oh.
Margaret: Faded. Faded. Yeah.
Ken: Faded? Oh, my goodness.
Margaret: Faded. Yeah, faded. Yeah. They’re all faded, and-
Ken: Oh, yeah. Like all the daffodil foliage and all that stuff?
Margaret: Yeah, exactly, exactly. Now mine, in that case, for instance, I have big masses of Narcissus, and they are not fully withered yet on their own. So I would not clean those up. And usually for me that’s around July 4th.
Ken: Well, it depends; when they turn yellow.
Margaret: Yeah, yeah. And just on the average here, it’s around the early July period.
Ken: Well, there’s some here that have already… I guess maybe they’re the earliest ones have yellowed. But there’s one that I look at every single day, and it’s completely green, and it looks just fine. But those are restoring the bulbs. They’re making carbohydrates for that underground… We need to have that foliage green as possible.
Margaret: Right. So to intrude in the name of cosmetics would be a bad idea. Whereas don’t you have some perennials that… Like I have euphorbias, for instance, early, the polychroma types and so forth the most common of the kind of chartreuse, early spring euphorbias, those are all stretched up and done. And with a nice haircut, they’ll make like a mound again.
Ken: Yeah. Lungwort, Pulmonaria [above, at Ken’s], it blooms, and then the foliage gets kind of black at the tips and black spots. I don’t know if you’ve ever noticed that.
Margaret: Yeah, absolutely.
Ken: Because you can actually cut that way back to like two inches, and it’ll have a flush of gorgeous new growth.
Margaret: Yeah. And the perennial geraniums, for me, because I rely a lot on them. I use Geranium macrorrhizum, the big root geranium [below], as a groundcover that can take almost any situation, even dry shade, but sunny spots even, I used it in. And that kind of stretches up at bloom time in May into early June. And then the choice is right now whether to sort of really haircut it, like almost with hedge shears held down low, to really cut it way down, which will remove the spent blooms as well as tighten up the foliage again, or whether to just pick out the spent blooms, or whether to turn a blind eye [laughter].
Ken: Turn a blind eye. Right. As you’re saying that, I’m thinking that’s a really good idea. I should do that [laughter], but I don’t.
Margaret: Right, right.
Ken: That’s one plant I let alone because it does so well on its own.
Margaret: Well, and I have a couple of places where it’s kind of near and narrower. It’s along the front of a bed near and narrower spot, not super-narrow, but when it’s at its full stretched up late June height and width, it’s kind of billowing out and up too much, and it makes the space feel dwarfed. It’s out of proportion. So I sometimes do it right in the very front beds near the front path to make it feel less congested. And then it comes back nice and tight for the rest of-
Ken: Ding, ding, ding. Garden forensics. You have more sun than I do, although you probably don’t grow that in full sun. And I don’t have any full sun, but I’m thinking all this stretching and everything, and I just realized mine are growing in a wall, rock wall.
Margaret: Oh, that’s funny.
Ken: So it doesn’t elongate really. I guess it’s compact and dwarfed by not having a lot of soil and moisture. And it does fine. It’s covered with flowers, but I can just enjoy it and forget it.
Margaret: So I also grow Geranium phaeum ‘Samobor’ [foliage detail, above].
Ken:[Makes rude noise.] Uh, it’s funny how-
Margaret: Why do you make that noise when I say one of my favorite plants?
Ken: I can’t believe it’s one of your favorites. I got mine from Robin Parer, oh gosh, at least 20 years ago, and it was ‘Samobor,’ the one with the really nice zone on the leaf.
Margaret: Yeah, it’s actually S-A-M-O-B-O-R, not samovar like a coffee machine [laughter].
Ken: Oh, ‘Samobor.’
Margaret: ‘Samobor.’
Ken: Now I know. But first year I had the black zone. The next year I had probably 20 plants almost all green. And I’ve been weeding that plant out ever since. It is a weed for me. And this year I’m going to just try to deadhead it, and only take it out when it’s in the way. But it’s everywhere. And it’s funny how that can be, how a plant can be your favorite and it can be a bane for me, although it’s not the worst, but-
Margaret: Right. And so for me, ‘Samobor’ with that chevron of dark, purple-y black on the foliage, on that typical sort of geranium foliage-
Ken: Espresso. We’re not talking about the machine, but the color is.
Margaret: [Laughter.] Right, right. Espresso, good. So for me, they’ve stayed true. I get some variation in the seedling population, but not really.
Ken: Amazing.
Margaret: I’ve had them probably 25 or more years, and it stayed in the same area. I haven’t had it spread around particularly far. And I love it because of that sort of purplish on the leaves. I love it as a sort of mixed groundcover mixed in with some of the purple heucheras or whatever.
But the thing is when it blooms, it pushes those flowers way, way up above the mound of the variegated foliage [above], like super-high, like knee-high, and then kind of the plant just sort of falls apart. And you have to cut the flower stalks, at least, down to get a nice flush, another mound of fresh foliage. So that’s sort of one of those “must” jobs for me, because it really looks horrible. I mean, that one, it’s not an optional one.
Ken: Maybe by doing that, you’re stopping what happened here, which is it just taking over.
Margaret: Well, because I’m basically deadheading before any seeds spread.
Ken: Right, right.
Margaret: Yes, yes. Exactly.
Ken: It has flowers all along that spike that are maybe the size of a penny, sort of, but they’re very pretty colored. I love the browns. It’s kind of a eggplant color sort of, and they’re adorable, but then they make their little fruits, and then they spill their seeds, and then they choke out their neighbor.
Margaret: Well, the common name for Geranium phaeum ‘Samobor’ is the mourning widow, like at a funeral, because she has those drooping, little dark, dark, dark, dark, dark flowers, like she’s in mourning and has her head bowed.
So, yeah, so I mean, speaking of plants that we don’t agree about, not that we don’t agree about everything, dear [laughter], we both grow certain Corydalis, and I think we have different opinions about those as well, which ones are thugs and which ones are more well-behaved. Again, in different situations, plants behave differently, which Corydalis do you grow, because that’s something else that if there’s too much or whatever, I might be tidying it up around now.
Ken: Well, almost everybody grows Corydalis lutea [above], the one with the yellow flowers. And it blooms for months, and it’s a little aggressive. It self-sows around, and I didn’t have it for years. And Lois Carswell from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden gave me a little plant, and now I have more than I would want. But I have one here that’s called Corydalis ochroleuca[below at Ken’s], and it has ivory-colored flowers, and it doesn’t bounce around like lutea.
Margaret: So interesting that that’s the case, because for me, the thug would be the one that’s… And I don’t know how you’d really pronounce it… cheilanthifolia?
Ken: Yeah, that’s a nuisance.
Margaret: That’s total thug for me. So the yellow one, lutea, I have plenty, but it’s not extreme. I always have plants, but there’s not tons of them. So it’s just funny.
Ken: And you can grab it with your hands and just pull it out.
Margaret: Absolutely. Easy, easy, easy, easy. Yeah, and I know we both have a lot of columbine. I have so much now, and it’s not like I ever planted it, that I can remember.
Ken: I went through the garden this year and just reduced it by 90 percent, because I still have too much. And a couple of ones that were beautiful or double or pink or special… I found one that has gold foliage that just appeared, and there’s one that I got from Wave Hill from seed. I think it’s called something like ‘Irish Elegance’ or something, and it has white double flowers, and it’s been in the same place now for its third year. Because they’re really short-lived; they usually don’t last more than two years. But I have cleaned up so much of that. I’d probably have a pound of seed if I let the seed happen.
Margaret: Right.
Ken: You think “Oh, it’s so nice,” and then it’s out of control.
Margaret: Right. So that’s something where, even though it seems extreme, I am pulling out some plants, the whole plant, before they set seed.
Ken: Right. I’m doing that, too.
Margaret: I’m deadheading some that I really like the color-
Ken: Right.
Margaret: And I hope it’ll continue for another year or whatever in that color, in that spot or whatever. You know what I mean? So I’m using multiple tactics on the same species of plant.
Ken: Well, thinking about things that I can grow and you can’t and you can grow and I can’t, I can’t grow Verbena bonariensis. And I know it’s a hardy annual, I guess, and it’s beautiful. You’ve done… I don’t know if you’re still doing it, but that was gorgeous by the pond.
Margaret: And so each year, and that’s with a lot of these self-sowing things that are in a slightly warmer climate, they’d probably be… I don’t know what they’d be [laughter]. But, yeah, so I always have some patches of it, and it migrates slightly, unless I am careful to edit, like what we’re talking about, edit and keep it in…
For all my Angelica, same thing, Angelica gigas, the same thing. It’s tempting sometimes when you see all this bounty of a plant you love like Verbena bonariensis or like Angelica gigas to think, “Oh wow, I’ve got so many. This is so great.”
But we need to edit because we need to think of about the outlines of next year’s garden as well. If we just let it get bigger and bigger… Same with the columbines, we could end up with columbines in every crack and crevice and bed and border, right?
Ken: Right. And I really Verbascum, the mulleins [above, at Ken’s], not like the roadside one, but the ones that are like candelabra and they have lots of yellow flowers and they bloom for months. And like Angelica, if you think… Well, what I’m saying is it pops up in the path.
Margaret: Yes, yeah.
Ken: So either you have to kill it or attempt to move it. And if you get it right away when it’s first appearing, you can move it, but it’s not up to its most vigorous self because it has a long taproot. But I imagine that’s similar with Angelica. Have you ever moved plants and saved them? Of Angelica?
Margaret: Yes. And I’ve given them to people also, but I do them when they’re very young. So I don’t wait until it’s really established. I think that would be very, very hard to… I don’t think it would work to dig it out.
Ken: So that’s a biennial, and verbascums are biennial. And then there’s hardy annuals like the poppies. We can talk about them in a second, but I’m wondering do you think the Angelica sprouts the same year that it blooms and then carries a little rosette over winter? Or do you think it has to wait till next spring?
Margaret: The Angelica gigas [below]?
Ken: Yeah, yeah.
Margaret: It does not bloom on a first-year plant. No.
Ken: Right. But if you sow the seeds, or if they self-sow, do they germinate this year, same year? Or do they have to go through a winter?
Margaret: I feel like… Oh, I can’t answer that. I know I always have tiny, little plants, and I always have really big plants that are in their second year. You know what I mean?
Ken: Yeah. No, I know just what you mean. Sorry to ask you such a hard question, really.
Margaret: Yeah. Sorry. I’m trying to imagine. I’d have to actually sort of test that. But Nicotiana, that’s the other thing that I have a lot of. And-
Ken: You said you had a mat of them.
Margaret: Well, that’s the thing, is that’s something that, as you know, I mean, you know better than I do, because you propagate, you grow a lot of things from seed, it’s like dust, the seed of Nicotiana, right?
And so if you have a bunch of those in a bed for sort of your summer… I have a lot of them in between where we were talking about those geraniums, like the Geranium phaeum, which is never going to be as full after its haircut as it was earlier in the season, in the spring, pre-bloom and at bloom time. So I have things like Nicotiana that self-sow in among those and give me like this second act in summer into fall. Well, that’s fine, except like you said, sometimes every single one takes, every dust-like seed. Every single one grows.
Ken: Right.
Margaret: And I do, I have mats. Now, what do you do when you have a really successful self-sower and you don’t want to get rid of it and you want to edit it? What do you do about that?
Ken: Oh gosh, someday in my lifetime I will throw away a plant [laughter], but I haven’t done it yet really. I can hardly think of it. So I’ll move them. Some will make it. Some won’t make it. And there’s no room for any of them.
It’s just like I’ve been working with primrose, with my candelabra primrose, because we had that thing we tried them over winter, and it was so successful, but what am I going to do with a thousand primroses?
Margaret: Right, right. Well, and what-
Ken: To answer the question, I planted them, and that’s crazy. So I grew them from seed, and I prick the little seedlings out, and they had to go through a winter first before they would germinate. Then I planted them on the bank of the canal, and it’s crazy. Anyway, it’s crazy.
Margaret: So well, we should move on to some woody things, too, but before we do, I was going to say you just are reminding me, you said something like who needs a million primulas or whatever?
Hellebores: I have a couple of big beds of hellebores, of the orientalis or x hybridus types that bloom in late winter and early spring. And those are prodigious self-sowers. And so next to the mama plant, there’s going to be lots and lots and lots of-
Ken: Under her leaves. And I remember when we paid $35 a plant, and we were so excited. This was probably 20 years ago, maybe more. And then I even went through a whole thing where I stratified the seed, it went through a winter. It went through a second winter…warm, cold, wet, dry, the whole thing. And then I lifted a leaf a few years later, and they’re as thick as lawn underneath there.
Margaret: Right. So they sow themselves very like a mother hen with a lot of chicks underneath her skirt [laughter], so to speak. And so what I’m doing now at this time in my garden career, I don’t want any more hellebores. I’ve got plenty. And so when-
Ken: Especially if they’re just white or pink and less than special.
Margaret: Right. When I do cleanup and when I’m weeding and when I’m just around in the garden at any time where they are, from spring cleanup on through the whole year, if I see a bunch, I just pull the whole thing out and discard it. So some friends have asked for some, and I’ve said, “Hey, just bring an empty flat, and we’ll have some potting soil, and you can stick those little babies in a flat,” like what you’re saying, pricking off one-
Ken: I just take a shovel, and they get the whole thing [laughter]. With several plants.
Margaret: Right. So what about, I mean, there are things, woody things too that need attention now, don’t you think? I mean, for instance, spring-blooming, the lilacs: In July-ish where we live, they’ll start the process of making the buds for next year that they’re going to carry over the winter. So either you prune them from just after bloom to July, or you run the risk of diminishing the flowers for next year. At least that’s the theory, so-
Ken: Because some of them make fruits. Some of the flowerheads stay green, and then you probably can see them if you look at the lilacs, little green fruits on them just turn brown and are unsightly. So in any event, those should go, and that’s-
Margaret: Well, I do that right after they finish blooming, when the blooms fade. But I’m just saying people may not have gotten to it all, and it’s sort of like this is the last bit of that window without potentially removing flower buds for next year, which will happen later in the summer. So are you doing any other pruning, any other woody stuff now?
Ken: Well, some things, if you prune them a little late, they’ll push new growth that’ll get fried. It comes out, and then it gets burnt by the sun. So I try to get all that done.
I don’t have any of the Viburnum dilatatum anymore, which is a very popular plant because it has red berries, and we like the red berries, and so do the birds. And then that plant, which is kind of invasive, and it’s certainly an exotic, gets around. So I’m growing a couple of native and local viburnum. And I know that some people think I’m a native Nazi, but it’s that I don’t want to contribute to bad things. And then, again, I-
Margaret: Right, so, again, you’re talking about the doublefile viburnum, which has become invasive in many regions of the country? Yes.
Ken: Right. And then you and I talk about Hesperis matronalis every year. People call it phlox, of course.
Margaret: The dame’s rocket, a herbaceous plant now we’re talking about. Yes.
Ken: Right. It’s a hardy annual, I guess. Maybe it’s biennial, or short-lived perennial. And that’s everywhere, covers the roadsides, because this used to be farmland, and it’s a European farm weed. But when I see it and it’s bringing color to a little spot and it smells so good, especially at night, I leave it until it stops flowering, and then I pull the whole plant out, which I know is dangerous [laughter].
Margaret: Right, because it could sow some seed.
So just so we don’t run out of time, I just want to kind of go through the woody stuff because I know that there are, for instance, in my apples, my crabapples, even my old magnolia, which it happens in some of the spots: I get those water sprouts. And things that are grafted, like my old crabapples, down at the base I get those suckers. I think that’s the other thing, is we have to go look for certain things like, again, fruit trees and so forth. They’re going to do that, and it’s a good time to take all those off, I think, if you can get in there. My espaliered Asian pair on the back of the house [above, in need of another trim up top]–
And don’t you have some topiaries or hedges or whatever that keep pushing out more, more, more, like my espalier does?
Ken: Not like your espalier, but I do have magnolias, and they do exactly that. And I have a little topiary schnauzer [above] that is a Taxus, a yew. And really, I should prune that every two weeks. It’s a nice thing to know about Taxus: It has unlimited buds, dormant buds, and some things don’t, but you have to keep up with it.
And I have a pruned beech tree that I have to keep after because it has a shape that I like. And if I don’t keep after it, it
makes these kind of whips out that go into outer space.
And I was noticing with the climbing rose, that it makes new canes and flowers at the same time, which is kind of unusual. But I have to train those new canes to go where I want them to be, so those I don’t cut off.
Margaret: Right. So one of the other things is that sometimes you get these, especially in a beautiful variegated thing, you get one green sprout, like a reversion. And those should come out whenever they occur.
But can you give us the two-minute version of your wisteria care, your how to get wisteria to bloom thing? Because that’s always a good reminder. You’re harsh with it, aren’t you?
Ken: Well, one could say that. And it works.
Margaret: Yeah. So tell us.
Ken: Because people ask me all the time, “How can I get my wisteria to bloom?” So I prune the wisteria about every two weeks. It sends out these long, wiry stems, new growth, and I prune them back to about one or two nodes that are facing in the direction I want it to grow. And I do that every two weeks until the beginning of August.
Margaret: Wow.
Ken: And then I stop, and it’s in a place where I just pass by it. It’s really perfect. And they bloom. So I consider it the secret to success: harsh treatment.
Margaret: Right, right. Yeah. I’m just trying to think of any other things, if I have any other things that I’m still-
Ken: You made me think of so many things that… Poppies, and-
Margaret: Yeah. Let’s just put in a word for that. I mean, one real quick one is I love the wood poppy. It’s an Eastern native. It’s not native up in New England where I am, but that I grow it as an ornamental. It’s Stylophorum diphyllum, the wood poppy, or celandine poppy.
Ken: Or celandine poppy. Right.
Margaret: Yeah. And the thing about that is it makes so many seedlings that what we were talking about before with some of the other overly enthusiastic creatures, that’s actually my really big task this week. That’s what I’ll be doing in the garden this week, is I’ll pull out half the plants probably, and with the others I’ll pull off a lot of the very beautiful, fuzzy seedheads before they ripen fully and explode. [Above, deadheaded seedpods to discard, or share with friends.]
Ken: And explode. Right.
Margaret: So that’s a combination where I’m not just “deadheading.” And some of the plants, they yellow around now. And I don’t know why one does it and another doesn’t; it must be age of the plant, but some of them I cut to the ground. So there’s just the rosette left. So it’s kind of a mixed approach, but at any rate, that’s another one. If people are growing it, it’s a wonderful plant, but you’ve got to have a firm hand with it.
So of course, we’ve run out of time again [laughter]. When are you going to be up here to help me?
Ken: After my second surgery.
Margaret: Okay, okay. All right. Well, good. So I will talk to you soon. And thank you for making time today from your chores.
Margaret: Yes, I’ll talk to you soon.
prefer the podcast version of the show?
MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the June 26, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
This post is done in partnership with Ball Horticultural, which not only produces amazing plants, but also throws a mean party. Thank you so much to Ball for a fabulous night.
If you ever wondered how many container combinations could be made with a dozen or so plant options, I can offer an answer: Way more than you might think.
It’s an interesting insight into how gardeners’ tastes vary and how what we do with plants will always be specific to our own tastes and preferences.
The potting party guests show off their creations.
I had the opportunity to “research” the topic of container gardening recently when Ball Horticultural (family-owned, woman-run, international horticultural company responsible for some of the gardening brands you know well like Wave Gardening, Beacon Impatiens, Burpee Home Gardens and more) asked me to invite some of my local gardening followers for a potting party. Basically, they threw a gardeners’ dream party for a bunch of plant nuts.
There was tasty food, a fabulous cucumber-watermelon mojito (or a mocktail version) and friendly folks all around, but the highlight was the chance to dig into the load of plants, including some new releases for next year, and have every guest create their own dream container.
THE PLANTS
The Ball team brought an a great selection of plants for partiers to choose from, with a focus on plants featuring the Pantone Color of the Year Viva Magenta, such as Sombrero Poco Hot Pink Echinacea from Darwin Perennials, or the plants that are easy on your pocketbook and will last the whole summer, such as Hula Begonia from PanAmerican Seed. The Jurassic Rex begonias were absolutely stunning, and, as the Ball team pointed out, make great houseplants that are more interesting than your average green plant.
Some of the plants party-goers were able to choose from included Echinacea Sombrero Poco Yellow, Jurassic Dino Black Tie Rex Begonia, Beacon Impatiens Lipstick, Angelonia Alonia Big Snow, Hula Begonia and, new for next year, Petunia Headliner Violet Sky.
Party-goers were welcome to pick a pot from a selection provided by Heyden’s Gardens, the local garden center where the event was held, and then “shop” the racks of plants provided by Ball. It was so interesting to see what people gravitated toward.
Shopping the racks of Ball plants to make containers. And yes, those were some fun gift bags waiting in the wings.
There were some plants that emerged as clear favorites. Angelonia Alonia Big Snow, a stout little upright number, seemed to end up in many container, as did ‘Blue Spear’ lavender‘Blue Spear’ lavender. One table of partiers all used both of these plants in their containers and then went different directions for other accent plants. Some went with a mostly white look, adding in Easy Wave White petunia, which maintains a nice, neat habit. Others went for the classic combination of white, blue and yellow by adding in Bee’s Knees Petunia, a fabulous soft yellow Petunia that is also an All-America Selections winner.
The gardeners at one table were clearly into the white and blue color scheme, starting with Angelonia and lavender and then adding in accents.
Shade containers were equally creative and varied, but many featured the absolutely spectacular Jurassic Rex Begonia series, which I fell in love with last year after I saw them at the Gardens at Ball display gardens in West Chicago, Illinois. They are certainly substantial enough to fill a container on their own, but some gardeners at the potting party added in Hula Begonia (which I grew last year and also gets quite sizable) or Beacon Impatiens, which are downy mildew resistant Impatiens walleriana, which, until Beacons came along, made the plant inappropriate for growing in many areas because the non-Beacon version could, and often was, wiped out in a matter of days when affected by the disease.
Jurassic Dino Black Sky rex begonia with Hula begonia and Splash Select White Hypoestes.
And then there were others who went a completely different direction. One gardener created an edible container featuring Quick Snack cucumber, a 2024 introduction for the Kitchen Minis line of potted vegetables appropriate for growing indoors or in small areas. She added in Everleaf Thai Towers basil (a sister to my very favorite must-grow basil Everleaf Emerald Towers) and an Easy Wave petunia for a bit of color.
An edible container featuring Quick Snack cucumber is perfect for a small-space gardener.
IT’S A PARTY!
Ball knows how to throw a party, so there was a fabulous spread of delicious bites, but also a refreshing watermelon cucumber mojito (here’s a similar recipe if you want to try it), poured out of a watering can, in keeping with the theme.
The watermelon cucumber mojitos were delicious.
But what was even better was watching a group of gardeners, most of whom didn’t know each other, just enjoy creating something with plants together. And boy did they create. Check out their designs.
I spy a lot of Bee’s Knees petunia here, but everyone did something a little different.
Can you tell they were having a good time?
The blue and white table, but isn’t it interesting how even though they all started with the same two plants, all their containers ended up a little different and with their own, personal touches.
Britt told me that most of her garden is green so she wanted to go with a lot of color for her container.
CONTAINER OBSERVATIONS
Studying all these container designs was so interesting and I left with a great appreciation for how certain plants could really shine in their role in a container. A few notable observations:
Alternanthera Purple Prince is an excellent uniter. Used with white and blue combinations, but also with hotter color combos, it worked as the perfect accent in every scenario.
Don’t sell polka dot plant (Hypoestes) short. It was incredible at punching up shade containers without competing with the stars of the show.
Combining annuals and perennials is a fabulous way to change up a design but still have season long interest. The containers that incorporated Sombrero Poco Echinacea, which is shorter growing and therefore excellent for containers, along with more common annuals, were so interesting.
Bring in the edibles. A lot of party-goers incorporated Everleaf Thai Towers basil right in with annuals and it was not only beautiful but also practical.
Don’t underestimate plants that start small. Having grown both Beacon Impatiens and Hula Begonia, I can attest to how wonderfully these plants fill out when they have a bit of time to grow. But you’ll often find them in smaller sizes when you buy them, which isn’t a bad thing because they can be a bit fragile for transportation. I know that the people who used these in their designs will have an incredible display in a couple weeks.
THE PARTY’S NOT OVER
Needless to say an excellent time was had by all and I’ve never seen people leave a party happier than when they walked out with their fabulous containers. Many party-goers have great gardening Instagram accounts and will hopefully be showing how their containers look as they grow on. Follow the hashtag #ballpottingparty on Instagram so you can catch the updates.
I think I’ve found the perfect party theme. Gardening together with new and old friends is a true joy. Thanks, Ball Horticultural, for bringing people together through plants and the occasional party.
Are you a gardener who loves growing cucumbers but struggles with them in the summer heat? In places like Arizona, the heat is often too much for the cucumbers to handle, they dry out, and if they do grow, they are often bitter. Cucumbers grow best with a long warm (but not hot) growing season.
This blog post will cover valuable tips and information to help you grow delicious, crisp, and juicy cucumbers in a hot summer climate. Everything you need to know from planting to harvesting. So, let’s get started!
Growing cucumbers in hot summer climates like Arizona can be a challenge.
Choose the Right Variety of Cucumber When Growing in a Hot Climate
To overcome the challenges of growing cucumbers in hot climates, the key is to plant cucumbers early in the season and plant short-season varieties that will ripen before the hottest days of summer.
Choosing the right variety of cucumbers is crucial in a hot summer climate. There are many varieties of cucumbers, but some are more tolerant of heat and drought than others.
Some recommended varieties includeTriumph, Poinsett, Marketmore 76, and Lemon. I’ve also had success with Diva, Japanese and Armenian. These varieties are known to produce good yields even in high temperatures and dry conditions.
Armenian types are actually a melon that tastes like a cucumber. They are especially suited to hot desert areas and will produce throughout the summer.
For more information on growing Armenian Cucumbers, read this article.
How and When to Plant Cucumbers
Start seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before your last frost date, or sow them directly outdoors once the soil has warmed. Plant cucumbers outside when soil temperatures have warmed up to at least 60°F(15°C), typically late spring or early summer.
Start cucumbers from transplant (left) or direct sow them (right).
Planting dates for the low desert of Arizona:
Keep the soil consistently moist, but avoid over-watering to prevent diseases. Cucumber seeds generally germinate within 7-10 days. Plant a group of 3 seeds every 12 inches (30cm); when seedlings have three leaves, thin to 1 plant every 12 inches (30cm). Good companion plants for cucumbers are bush beans, corn, and cabbage.
Cucumbers thrive in well-draining, fertile soil enriched with organic matter like compost. Choose a location with plenty of sunlight, as they require at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily.
Provide Support for Growing Cucumbers
It’s best to provide a trellis or some form of support for cucumbers as they grow. This helps keep them off the ground and keeps the fruit clean and free from rot. Trellising the plants also gives other crops room to grow, as cucumber vines can quickly take over a raised bed.
Provide Ample Water and Shade for Cucumbers Grown in Hot Climates
Cucumbers are thirsty plants and require ample water to grow well. In hot summer conditions, they require more water than usual. So make sure to water them regularly and deeply. You can also provide them with shade by using shade cloth or by planting them near taller plants. This will prevent them from getting scorched by the sun and keep them cool.
How to grow cucumbers in hot climates? MULCH them!
Mulching your cucumber plants is an excellent way to keep the soil moist and cool during hot summer months. Use organic materials like straw, leaves, or compost to cover the soil around your cucumber plants. This will help retain moisture, reduce water loss due to evaporation, and keep the soil temperature cool. Learn more about mulching in this blog post.
Understand cucumber pollination
Cucumber plants have two primary pollination types: self-pollinating and cross-pollinating.
Self-pollinating cucumbers, also known as parthenocarpic varieties, do not require pollen transfer to produce fruit. Examples of parthenocarpic cucumbers include ‘Diva’, ‘Socrates’, and ‘Tyria’, which are ideal for indoor or greenhouse growing conditions since they can produce fruit without the presence of pollinators like bees.
Cross-pollinating cucumbers rely on the transfer of pollen from male to female flowers within the same plant or between different plants. Examples of cross-pollinating cucumbers are ‘Marketmore 76’, ‘Straight Eight’, and ‘National Pickling’. This process typically requires the assistance of pollinators, such as bees, to ensure successful fruit production. If you find that female fruits are withering and not being pollinated, consider hand-pollinating them.
Watch Out for Pests and Diseases
Healthy plants are more resistant to pest infestations, do what you can to keep your plant healthy. Keep a close eye on your plants and look for signs of damage, such as wilting, yellowing, or holes in the leaves. Check for pests like aphids, spider mites, and cucumber beetles.
Check plants and undersides of leaves daily. Handpick beetles and remove their eggs. Early detection and intervention can prevent severe damage and make controlling pests easier.
Use a strong stream of water to dislodge spider mites from the leaves. Make sure to target both the top and underside of the leaves. Repeat this process every few days until the infestation is under control.
Sprinkle food-grade diatomaceous earth on the affected plants. This natural powder can help kill spider mites by damaging their exoskeletons. Be careful not to over-apply, as it can also impact beneficial insects.
Avoid over-fertilizing, as excessive nitrogen can encourage spider mite outbreaks.
To prevent diseases, avoid watering the leaves and provide good air circulation around the plants.
Cucumber beetle eggs and three lined cucumber beetle
Harvest Your Cucumbers at the Right Time
Harvesting cucumbers at the right time is important for the best flavor and texture. Cucumbers should be picked when they are firm but still slightly tender. Cucumbers are best harvested when small, and the flower is still attached.
Overripe cucumbers can get bitter and lose their crispness. So keep a close eye on your plants and harvest regularly to keep the fruits coming.
These overgrown yellow cucumbers are better suited to saving seeds than eating.
Harvest cucumbers in the morning when temperatures are cool. Cut the stem or twist rather than pulling at the fruit to break off. Immediately immerse them in cold water to disperse “field heat” to increase the quality and life of the picked fruit.
Immerse cucumbers immediately after harvesting to increase storage life and keep cucumbers crisp.
Use homegrown cucumbers in a variety of ways
Enjoy cucumbers in simple ways, such as raw slices for a crunchy snack or added to salads. Cucumbers also work well in cold soups like gazpacho or blended into smoothies for extra hydration and nutrients.
Pickling is another popular method to preserve and add flavor to cucumbers. For a creative twist, use cucumber slices as a base for appetizers by topping them with spreads, cheeses, or smoked salmon.
Store whole cucumbers in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator, wrapped in foil or a plastic bag. Typically, they stay fresh for up to a week. Once cut, store cucumber slices in an airtight container to maintain their crispness and consume them within a few days.
Growing cucumbers in a hot summer climate can be a challenge, but with the right techniques, you can still enjoy a bountiful harvest. Choose the right variety, provide ample water and shade, mulch your plants, watch out for pests and diseases, and harvest your cucumbers at the right time.
If this post about how to grow cucumbers in hot climates was helpful, please share it:
In the world of landscape design, it’s hard to go wrong with a heap of green shrubbery. And when that shrubbery is none other than a cherry laurel, it just feels oh so right.
The glossy green broadleaf foliage is alluring, what with the way that it grows all dense and tightly-packed.
Yet each leaf can be admired individually, as they’re of ample size. They’re also evergreen, meaning they’ll provide a year-round spectacle.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
But let’s not forget the flowers and ornamental fruits, each of which deserves an eyeful of aesthetic admiration.
Add attractiveness to wildlife and some cultural toughness to the mix, and you’ve got yourself a real winner.
Ready to start on your cherry laurel journey? This guide will show you how.
Here’s what we’ll be discussing:
What Are Cherry Laurel Shrubs?
A member of the Rosaceae family, Prunus laurocerasus is a stunning evergreen shrub that originates in southeastern Europe and Asia Minor.
Hardy in USDA Zones 6 to 8, cherry laurels typically reach mature heights of 10 to 20 feet, with spreads of about 20 to 30 feet.
Although these multi-stemmed plants are typically grown as shrubs in the landscape, they can also be pruned to look like low-branching trees.
P. laurocerasus boasts densely-packed, medium to dark green foliage that’s glossy up top and a bit pale and matte underneath.
Individual leaves are usually two to six inches long, each with an oblong to elliptical shape.
Come spring, white flower clusters emerge from light green buds.
Growing two to five inches long, each is made up of many small, five-petaled, and botanically perfect flowers, i.e. these bear both male and female parts.
By midsummer, the blooms give way to small, rounded, purple to black drupes, which are quite tasty to birds. Within each fruit lies a round, tan seed that ripens in fall.
But before you get any ideas, you should know that the entirety of a cherry laurel shrub contains cyanogenic glycosides such as amygdalin, the leaves and seeds especially.
These are not edible. If ingested, you could develop a grab bag of possible symptoms such as weakness, convulsions, shock, and respiratory failure.
Therefore, I wouldn’t recommend that you, your pets, or your livestock go snacking on a cherry laurel.
Cultivation and History
Before we dive into P. laurocerasus any further, let’s examine its name.
Prunus originates from the Latin prunum, meaning “plum” – another member of the Prunus genus. The species name laurocerasus comes from the Latin words “cerasus” and “laurus” for “cherry” and “laurel,” hence the common name.
Beyond its native lands, the cherry laurel was all but unknown for a long time.
That is, until sometime in the mid-16th century, when a traveler to Genoa, Italy established some specimens in a local garden.
P. laurocerasus was introduced into Northern Europe around the year 1576 CE, thanks to the horticulturally influential Carolus Clusius.
This Flemish botanist and doctor – the man responsible for bringing many significant plants to Europe, from the tulip to the potato – received a dying cherry laurel from Constantinople, revitalized it, and made yet another mark on the horticultural world.
By the mid-1600s, P. laurocerasus had become a popular choice for espalier in estate gardens.
Come 1730 CE, it had become more trendy to let cherry laurel groupings grow a bit more wild and untamed. Throughout this time, its popularity in England earned the plant its “English laurel” moniker.
P. laurocerasus soon found a non-ornamental application: a foliar extract, dubbed “laurel water,” was used to add a delightful almond-y essence to various foods and drinks.
Unfortunately, this aroma was due to the presence of hydrogen cyanide, which led to a few high-profile poisonings in the 1700s. After that, the extract’s culinary appeal understandably vanished.
The shrub has since been introduced to North America, where it has surfed the ups and downs of ornamental landscaping trends. But for the most part, it’s a beloved shrub. For the most part…
It’s worth mentioning that this shrub has some invasive tendencies.
Its seeds are spread far and wide by birds, it vegetatively spreads via suckering, and its cultural requirements, while making it easy to cultivate, can also make it hard to kill.
All of this could potentially displace native species as well, so it’s best to always double-check your local laws and invasive plant lists prior to planting.
If you’re located in the Pacific Northwest, you should take particular heed.
The plant is on Washington’s monitor list, which keeps tabs on suspected noxious weeds, while the Native Plant Society of Oregon has P. laurocerasus listed as a medium- to high-impact species in terms of its effect on native habitats, alteration of ecological functions, and tendency to form monocultures.
Propagation
Do you want to propagate some cherry laurels? The best means of doing so are from seed, cuttings, or via transplanting.
From Seed
To gather seeds, collect ripe fruits in the fall. Remove the pulpy drupe from around the seeds, and leave the seeds out to dry.
Alternatively, you could purchase seeds from a reputable vendor and skip all of that harvesting nonsense.
Once you have your seeds, let them soak in water for 24 hours to scarify them.
After that, place the seeds in a baggie of moist sand before leaving said baggie in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days. Make sure to keep the sand moist all the while!
Once your seeds are stratified, remove them from their sandy baggie. Carefully, though – it’s likely that the radicals may have already emerged.
Sow the seeds an inch deep into a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite, whether in a seed tray or individual three-inch containers.
Moisten the media and expose them to bright, indirect light indoors, ensuring that the media is kept continuously moist.
After the final frost in spring, the seedlings should be ready for direct sowing outside.
But first, harden off the seedlings by leaving them outdoors for 30 to 60 minutes before bringing them back inside. Add a half to a full hour of exposure each day, until they can handle a full day of being outdoors.
At this point, the seedlings can go in the ground, whether into a seedling bed or their forever homes.
Alternatively, you could grow them in outdoor containers, at least until they outgrow five-gallon ones that are easy to maintain.
From Cuttings
If genetic variation isn’t your thing, then rooting cuttings is the propagation method for you! This allows you to create clones of the parent plant.
Come summer, take four- to six-inch cuttings from healthy-looking shoots with a sharp and sterile blade.
Make the actual cuts just below a node, defoliate the bottom two inches of each cutting, and dip the de-leafed sections in a rooting hormone, such as this Bonide-brand IBA powder from Arbico Organics.
Stick each cutting into its own three-inch container filled with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and sand.
Water it in, and place the containers somewhere indoors where they will receive bright, indirect light, such as on a windowsill.
After eight weeks of light exposure and constant moisture, the cuttings should be well and truly rooted.
At this point, you can transplant them directly in-ground or into outdoor containers. But make sure to harden them off first, using the above protocol.
From Seedlings/Transplanting
Prepare well-draining, fertile soil with a pH of 5.0 to 7.0. Exposure-wise, these plants can handle full sun, full shade, and everything in between.
A good idea would be to try and balance light and climate – specimens in USDA Zone 6 should receive more sun, while those in Zone 8 could probably use some more shade.
Space these sites are about as far apart as your specimens are expected to spread at maturity. Container-grown transplants should have at least an inch or two of elbow room between the roots and the container’s sides.
Dig holes about as deep and a bit wider than the transplants’ root systems.
For some added fertility, feel free to mix the dug-out soil with some organic matter such as compost or rotted manure prior to backfilling.
Once the transplants are in their holes, alternate backfilling with watering until transplanting is complete. At this point, pat yourself on the back – ya done did it!
How to Grow
Now that you’ve got a cherry laurel or two in the ground, let’s discuss how to keep them happy throughout their stay in your garden.
Climate and Exposure Needs
P. laurocerasus has a fairly narrow hardiness range: USDA Zones 6 to 8.
But within these zones, the sky’s the limit in terms of placement options. These shrubs can handle full sun to full shade, salt spray, wind, and even atmospheric pollution!
For optimal growth, try to hit an equilibrium of sorts with the light and climate. Warmer Zone, less light. Cooler Zone, more light.
Soil Needs
Rich fertility, a high drainage capacity, and an acidic to neutral pH are solid ingredients for the ideal cherry laurel soil. Specifically, a pH range of 5.0 to 7.0 works quite nicely.
As for the soil nutrients, working an inch or two of organic matter into the root zone every spring goes a long way.
Water and Fertilizer Needs
A cherry laurel prefers to sit in moist soils. Therefore, you should water whenever the soil feels dry about three inches down. For an approximation, a finger’s length should suffice.
A springtime addition of supplemental fertilizer for acid-loving evergreens would be helpful as well.
But cherry laurel cultivars definitely have their merits, as well. Here’s a handful of varieties that you may like.
Otto Luyken
Introduced by Hesse Nurseries in Germany circa 1968, ‘Otto Luyken’ is a pretty compact cultivar, attaining a height of three to four feet and spread of six to eight feet.
Eventually, older plants may attain heights of six to 10 feet in ideal conditions.
This variety is also free-flowering, meaning its bloom time is longer and less limited to a certain period of time.
In a bloomless pinch, you can distinguish it from other cherry laurels by examining the leaves – they’ll point more upward, often at a 45- to a 60-degree angle. How’s that for variety?
Schipkaensis
Another hard-to-pronounce cultivar, ‘Schipkaensis’ is well worth learning the phonetics of. Either that, or you can refer to it by its nickname, “skip laurel.”
Back in 1889, ‘Schipkaensis’ was discovered near the Bulgarian Shipka Pass, growing at an elevation of 4,000 feet.
As you can imagine, it’s quite tough, with an extended hardiness range of USDA Zones 5 to 8.
With a mature height of about four to five feet, the leaves of this variety are a bit narrower than those of the species plant.
You definitely don’t want to “skip” the skip laurel. For a ready-to-plant specimen, visit FastGrowingTrees.com.
Zabeliana
Speaking of narrow foliage, the leaves of ‘Zabeliana’ are quite skinny, practically willow-like.
The habit of this one is especially low and wide-spreading, with heights of three to five feet and spreads of 12 to 25 feet when fully grown.
Another free-flowerer, ‘Zabeliana’ is a low-growing bloomer that any gardener would enjoy.
Managing Pests and Disease
Cherry laurels do attract wildlife, but most animals don’t give these plants any trouble.
A deer-resistant shrub, P. laurocerasus doesn’t have to deal with many pests and diseases. But the problems that it can suffer from are well worth knowing about.
Proper cultivation leaves plants more capable of dealing with health threats, so be sure to grow your cherry laurels properly!
Insects
Bugs aren’t the most sterile of creatures, as they can easily vector diseases while they feed. But that’s the great thing about proper pest management – it can also help to prevent disease!
Peach Tree Borers
Also known as Synanthedon exitiosa, peach tree borers primarily attack species of Prunus in the landscape, cherry laurels in particular.
The wasp-like adults are a steel blue to black in hue, while the larvae have white to pinkish to light brown bodies and darker-colored heads.
After the female adults mate and lay their eggs in summer beneath the bark at plant bases, the larvae hatch and bore their way up into the shrub, leaving reddish-brown frass in their wake.
This feeding continues all the way through fall and winter into spring. Come summer, the larvae pupate into adults, and the cycle continues.
Bored-through tunnels often exhibit gummosis, or an oozing of thick, jelly-like sap.
These tunnels can damage the vascular tissues of the plant, leading to wilt and leaf chlorosis. Young plants can be girdled and killed, while older specimens can usually sustain moderate infestations.
It’s important that you prune and destroy infested branches when you happen to notice them.
If there are only a few larvae present, you can dig them out with a sharp blade or kill them with a wire poked through the feeding tunnels.
White Prunicola Scale
A species of armored scale, Pseudaulacaspis prunicola can be found on the twig and branch bark of infested specimens all year long.
These circular white scale insects puncture and extract vital plant fluids with their piercing-sucking mouthparts, which can cause chlorosis, leaf drop, and stunted growth. If infestations are heavy enough, entire branches could die.
Necrotic branches should be pruned and destroyed. More moderate infestations can be swept off of infested plant surfaces using a brush.
Sprays of horticultural oil or insecticidal soaps can be effective, especially when these pests are in their crawler stage.
To monitor for this stage of the life cycle, wrap some double-sided tape around a branch or two. When you notice crawlers on the tape, you’ve got the green light to make with the spraying.
Are the leaves of your Prunus species exhibiting round, tiny holes about an eighth of an inch in diameter? If so, you may be dealing with cherry shot-hole disease.
Often caused by the fungus Blumeriella jaapii or the bacterium Xanthomonas pruni, cherry shot-hole disease is prone to occuring in warm and wet springtime conditions.
Symptoms start with brown to reddish-brown leaf spots, which later drop out of the foliage and leave holes behind.
Photo via Alamy.
This is mostly a cosmetic issue, and one that’s quickly hidden by the growth of new leaves. But photosynthesis will definitely be hindered some, leading to reduced growth and vigor.
You won’t usually need to do much besides promptly pruning out afflicted leaves and raking up fallen ones – your specimens should recover in time.
You could also improve airflow by pruning the crown, if you desire.
Root Rot
Ah, root rot: the bane of many moisture-loving plants.
Although the roots of cherry laurel love themselves some soil moistness, they also need oxygen.
But when the roots are chronically deprived of O2 thanks to oversaturated soils, they can suffocate and die. And don’t even get me started on the pathogens that overly-wet conditions could encourage!
These rotted roots can cause all sorts of issues above the soil line, from chlorosis to necrosis.
The best way to avoid this problem is to prevent it entirely, so make sure you don’t overwater, and provide well-draining soils!
Best Uses
As you can imagine, the aesthetic gifts of a cherry laurel lend this shrub to many landscaping applications.
Its dense foliage makes the shrub a fantastic screen, hedge, or foundation planting. Whether placed together in a grouping or alone as a specimen, P. laurocerasus isn’t picky.
The flowers can attract many pollinating insects to your landscape, while the fruits can draw beautiful birds to feed from and nest within the plant.
And I’ve even heard that the leaves make a solid leafy backdrop for floral arrangements, if that’s your thing.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Broadleaf evergreen woody shrub
Flower/Foliage Color:
White/medium to dark green
Native to:
Asia Minor, southeastern Europe
Maintenance:
Low
Hardiness (USDA Zones):
6-8
Tolerance:
Deer, heavy pruning, occasional drought, pollution, salt spray, wind
Bloom Time:
Spring
Soil Type:
Fertile
Exposure:
Full sun-full shade
Soil pH:
5.0-7.0
Time to Maturity:
5-6 years
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Spacing:
Width of mature spread
Attracts:
Bees, birds, butterflies
Planting Depth:
1 inch (seeds), depth of root system (transplants)
Uses:
Groupings, hedges, foundation plantings, screens, specimens, wildlife attraction
Height:
10-20 feet
Order:
Rosales
Spread:
20-30 feet
Family:
Rosaceae
Water Needs:
Moderate
Genus:
Prunus
Common Pests and Disease:
Peach tree borers, white prunicola scale; root rot, cherry shot-hole disease
Species:
Laurocerasus
Rest on Your (Cherry) Laurels
Metaphorically, that is. Lounging atop a P. laurocerasus would be pretty painful, for both person and plant.
But hey, you’re on your way towards having a cherry laurel in the ground, which is certainly commendable. And after growing and caring for one of these bad boys, you’re sure to love ’em!
Questions? Concerns? All of that and more can go in the comments section below.
Ken: Yeah. Lungwort, Pulmonaria [above, at Ken’s], it blooms, and then the foliage gets kind of black at the tips and black spots. I don’t know if you’ve ever noticed that.
Margaret: So I also grow Geranium phaeum ‘Samobor’ [foliage detail, above].
Margaret: Well, the common name for Geranium phaeum ‘Samobor’ is the mourning widow, like at a funeral, because she has those drooping, little dark, dark, dark, dark, dark flowers, like she’s in mourning and has her head bowed.
Ken: And you can grab it with your hands and just pull it out.
Ken: Right. And I really Verbascum, the mulleins [above, at Ken’s], not like the roadside one, but the ones that are like candelabra and they have lots of yellow flowers and they bloom for months. And like Angelica, if you think… Well, what I’m saying is it pops up in the path.
Ken: Yeah. No, I know just what you mean. Sorry to ask you such a hard question, really.
Ken: Not like your espalier, but I do have magnolias, and they do exactly that. And I have a little topiary schnauzer [above] that is a Taxus, a yew. And really, I should prune that every two weeks. It’s a nice thing to know about Taxus: It has unlimited buds, dormant buds, and some things don’t, but you have to keep up with it.
Margaret: Yeah. And the thing about that is it makes so many seedlings that what we were talking about before with some of the other overly enthusiastic creatures, that’s actually my really big task this week. That’s what I’ll be doing in the garden this week, is I’ll pull out half the plants probably, and with the others I’ll pull off a lot of the very beautiful, fuzzy seedheads before they ripen fully and explode. [Above, deadheaded seedpods to discard, or share with friends.]
