Category: Home & Garden

As much as I adore an achingly ripe fig or a blood red cherry, I can buy them at the grocery store in a pinch.

But a truly unctuous peach? Impossible to find if you don’t have access to a tree.

I’ll level with you. The rewards don’t come without a cost. Growing peaches isn’t the easiest garden endeavor you’ll ever try your hand at.

These trees are plagued by pests, diseases, hungry herbivores, and late-season frosts.

But with hardier and tougher cultivars available and a little bit of know-how, you can have homegrown peach juice dripping down your wrist in no time.

This guide will help you make it happen. To get there, we’ll discuss the following:

Peaches will grow in Zones 4 to 9, but they do particularly well in Zones 6 and 7. Varietal selection is particularly region-dependent, and we’ll explore this more later in the article.

Peaches are self-pollinating, so while you may want to grow an orchard so all your loved ones can have bushels full, you don’t need more than one to get fruit.

But though they’re self-fruitful, you can always plant multiple cultivars to extend the harvest season. You could have fresh peaches from early spring through late summer!

By the way, if you’re trying to figure out how to grow nectarines and you landed here, most of the information in this guide applies to nectarines as well.

Nectarines are genetically similar except they lack the fuzz on the skin, and they usually have darker coloring, though not always.

Cultivation and History

The peach is a deciduous tree native to northwest China and it has been cultivated in the region for centuries.

Their cultivation has been documented dating at least 4,000 years back and genetic evidence shows that they were being cultivated thousands of years before that.

China continues to produce the majority of peaches and nectarines in the world.

The plants were brought to and cultivated in Japan around 4000 BC and India around 1700 BC.

In the wild, the trees can grow up to 23 feet tall, but cultivated trees rarely reach such heights.

Alexander the Great found peach seeds in Persia around 300 BC, and he and his armies carried them to Greece.

From there, they spread throughout Europe, and Europeans assumed they originated in Persia.

That’s actually where the specific epithet persica comes from, and the fruits were called Persian apples or plums at the time.

Peaches were brought to Florida by Spanish explorers in the 16th century, and the rest, as they say, is history.

The tree’s delicate blossoms are heralded for their beauty. These are similar to those produced by other close relatives, all in the Prunus genus – the fruiting cherries, flowering cherries, plums, nectarines, and almonds.

The half-inch to one-inch in diameter flowers bloom in various shades of orange, red, pink, and violet, and can be quite fragrant. They appear on the branches before the leaves emerge.

The blossoms can be so lovely that there are even peach trees that are grown solely as ornamentals.

And while Georgia fancies itself the peach capital of the universe – the Atlanta area in particular – California actually produces more of the fruit annually.

Peaches are a type of stone fruit (drupe), along with plums and cherries. The name describes the hard, stony covering around the seed, known as the endocarp. The fruits also contain the fleshy interior called the mesocarp, and the skin called the exocarp.

The endocarp is often used to create an almond-flavored persipan, which is a cheaper version of the almond-based marzipan. It shouldn’t come as any surprise that peaches and almonds are closely related.

The seeds inside the endocarp contain hydrocyanic acid, which is poisonous. One seed won’t kill you, but don’t eat lots of them intentionally or you could become extremely sick.

Peaches might taste like candy, but they’re extremely good for you. They contain antioxidants and anti-inflammatories like the phenolic compounds quercetin, catechins, and cyanidin.

You can loosely group the flavor of the fruits by the color of the flesh. Yellow flesh tends to be more acidic, and white flesh tends to be sweeter. The sweeter ones are sometimes called subacid types.

The trees develop their fruiting buds in the late summer, and they remain dormant until the tree experiences a certain number of cool days, which we’ll discuss in a bit.

After the extended chill, the fruit buds start to develop. The fruits must experience temperatures above 68°F to mature.

Propagation

Peaches are best propagated through cuttings or purchased plants.

While you can grow a fruit-bearing tree from a peach pit, it probably won’t be the exact same type of peach that you originally ate to get the pit.

As the product of sexual reproduction via pollen and ovules from potentially different sources, peaches will not necessarily grow true from seed.

Experiments in hybridization and creating new varieties can be fun, though this requires a lot of patience while you wait for the plant to mature.

Most commercially grown peach trees are grafted onto hardy and vigorous rootstock of related species, sometimes of dwarf varieties to contain the size of the new tree.

From Cuttings

Hardwood and semi-hardwood cuttings may be taken as a common method of peach propagation. This methods of asexual reproduction creates clones that are exact replicas of the parent.

Semi-hardwood cuttings tend to root better, but you have to keep the environment humid and they can’t tolerate wet feet. Hardwood cuttings are more forgiving but they take longer to root. It’s a sort of pick-your-poison situation.

Semi-hardwood cuttings should be taken in the early summer, while hardwood cuttings should be taken during the dormant season in late winter.

Hardwood cuttings need to be about a foot long and at least as thick as a pencil. Cut off any lower shoots and leave just two or three leaves attached at the top.

Softwood cuttings should be about eight inches long. They should be soft and newer but not green growth.

Make the cut at a 45-degree angle and place the cutting in water until you’re ready to plant it. Once you’re ready, dip the end in rooting hormone and place it in prepared soil outdoors for hardwood cuttings, or moist sand for softwood cuttings.

For softwood cuttings, the temperature must be between 55 and 77°F for rooting and the location should receive bright, indirect light or a few hours of morning sun.

Tent plastic over the softwood cuttings to hold moisture, or plan on misting several times a day. Keep the sand moist.

The soil for hardwood cuttings should be kept moist as well.

Harden off softwood cuttings in the spring first by removing the covering for a few weeks before transitioning the plants outside after the last predicted frost date. Leave the cutting outside for an hour in a sunny, protected area, then bring it back indoors.

Each following day, add an hour until the plant can be outside for a full eight hours. Then you can plant it as described below.

From Seedlings/Transplanting

Transplanting should be done in early spring when the tree is completely dormant. Any new growth is a sign that it’s too late to plant.

If you find a bargain sapling or a friend gives you one and it has new growth, don’t despair. You can plant it, but the tree will be stressed and probably won’t fruit the following year, assuming it’s old enough that it could produce fruit.

Dig a hole that’s a few inches deeper and wider than the root ball. Gently loosen the root ball and set it on a small mound of soil at the bottom of the hole, centering it in the hole.

Grafted plants should be situated so that the graft union is two inches above the soil level.

Carefully refill the hole with the soil you removed, to the same depth as the container the plant came in. If you bury more of the trunk than what was buried when you bought the tree, the plant could die.

Thoroughly water the newly planted sapling. This closes up any air gaps. Add more soil if necessary to create a smooth soil surface.

Plant about 18 feet apart for standard trees and closer to 10 feet apart for dwarf trees.

How to Grow

One of the biggest factors in finding success with growing peaches is in choosing the right location.

Peaches flower earlier in the spring than apples, plums, and cherries. That means that they’re more susceptible to late-season freezes that can destroy the flowers and, subsequently, your crop.

In areas that are prone to late-season frosts, like Colorado and Utah, grow peaches near a cement or brick wall to reflect some heat back onto the plant.

You can also plant on the upper parts of slopes or hills. Avoid low-lying areas, which typically experience more frost.

Choose a sunny spot that won’t be shaded at any point by other trees or buildings. Some trees can adapt to a little bit of shade, but peaches won’t produce in anything but full sun.

If you have to compromise, make sure the tree gets early morning sunlight because the sun helps to dry the dew. While dew looks pretty, it can lead to fungal disease.

Choose a spot with deep, well-drained soil with a pH around 6.5. Sandy loam is best. If you don’t have perfect soil, work in lots of well-rotted compost. Compost adds nutrients and it can loosen up clay and improve drainage in sand, so it’s the do-it-all soil amendment.

Amend the soil at least two feet deep and six feet in diameter. It’s a lot of digging, but it will pay off.

If your soil drains poorly, don’t plant peaches. There’s no way around it, these trees are too sensitive to excess root moisture, and they will rot.

In the best-case scenario, they will be stunted and perform poorly. Worst case, they’ll die.

If you didn’t add compost, scatter one cup of 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer at least 18 inches away from the trunk of newly planted trees.

Better yet, do a soil test in the fall before planting and amend your soil to alter the pH as needed. In the spring, before planting, add any lacking nutrients well in advance of planting.

A peach tree needs about 36 inches of water annually, or about three inches per month. Water is more vital during the growing season, and the tree needs less water during the dormant season.

What does that look like in real life? If you get frequent summer soakings – every 10 days or so – you may not have to do supplemental waterings once trees are established.

If, on the other hand, you live in Austin, Texas, where it only rains once or twice during the summer, you’ll need to bring out the soaker hose.

Of course, all this doesn’t help you to figure out when to water unless you have a rain gauge. These tools are affordable and extremely useful.

Water is best given infrequently. You want to water deep and less often rather than watering shallowly and frequently.

Young trees will need to be watered more often, and the top few inches of soil shouldn’t be allowed to dry out completely before watering again.

Just don’t overwater. You want the soil to feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not muddy or soggy.

Fertilizing

Young trees up to five years of age need one pound of granulated 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer in early spring after the last predicted frost date and again in early summer.

 As the tree matures, feed it two pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer twice a year — once in early spring and again in early summer – throughout its lifespan.

I highly recommend you test your soil once a year. It’s not expensive, and it gives you important insight into your soil’s makeup. At the very least, test every few years.

If you find that your soil is deficient in a specific nutrient, add it in addition to the 10-10-10 fertilizer, unless you find the soil contains excessive nutrients. Then, you’ll need to create a custom plan according to the test results.

In some areas, iron deficiency is common. A lack of iron causes leaf chlorosis, with yellowing between the leaf veins, as well as smaller sized fruits. So it’s not something to mess around with!

Sometimes soil can have sufficient iron, but it isn’t available to the tree because of a lack of water. Keep the soil sufficiently moist to ensure the tree can access the iron. Chelated iron can increase iron levels.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun, preferably at the top of a sloping area.
• Trees need about three inches of water per month, with more in summer and less in winter.
• Feed twice a year with granulated 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning is super important. Peaches produce best when they have a vase or open center shape.

Most young trees found at nurseries are already pruned to shape, so you just need to plant and maintain the shape.

If you buy a stick-straight sapling with a few branches sticking out here and there, you’ll need to provide some shape at home.

You don’t need to do much other than remove crowded, crossing branches during the first three years of the tree’s life.

Then, in the fourth year, cut the leader (the tallest, central branch) at the nearest lateral branch or bud.

Prune any lower branches off until you have five to seven branches total. For the next two years, remove any smaller branches that try to grow.

After that, remove any water sprouts, and any diseased, broken, or crossing branches, to maintain the shape. This should be done right after your harvest, or in the dormant season in late winter.

You’ll be extremely popular with your local wildlife. Just be sure to clean up any fallen fruit at the end of the season to prevent disease and avoid supporting rat populations.

Another important aspect of growing peaches is the need – however difficult it is – to thin the fruit when they are three-quarters to one inch in diameter.

Trees naturally produce more fruit than they can carry, and if you don’t thin the branches they can break, or the peaches will be small and less flavorful.

Pluck off excess fruit so you are left with a fruit every three to five inches or so, depending on the cultivar.

You’re going to feel like you’re removing a lot, and it seem like a shame to do such a thing.

But trust me, you want your tree to devote its energy to growing the best harvest possible, rather than spreading its resources inadequately among far too many little fruits.

Toss them in the compost and just think of it as contributing to the next year’s crop.

Don’t till under the trees since the roots tend to be shallow.

Cultivars to Select

There are hundreds of peach cultivars, which can make selecting one seem overwhelming!

It always pays to chat with the experts at a local nursery or agricultural extension to learn about which ones grow well in your area. Some cultivars will thrive in the humid heat of the south, and others will do best in the cooler conditions of the northern latitudes.

It’s important to select a variety that is known to do well in your area. Peach trees have very specific chilling requirements in order to break dormancy and begin flowering.

What does this mean? Each variety needs a certain number of chilling hours below a particular temperature. For example, ‘Bicentennial’ requires 750 hours under 45°F each winter in order to bloom, whereas ‘Gulfking’ needs only 350 hours under 45°F.

If you choose a cultivar that needs fewer hours of chilling than what commonly occurs in your area, your tree might start blooming during a January or February warm spell.

And then a subsequent cold snap could kill all of your blooms, meaning you’ll have no peaches when harvest season rolls around.

You should also choose winter-hardy types if your region experiences severe freezes in late winter, which can kill the developing buds. Cultivars such as ‘Redhaven’ are known for being hardy enough to survive and produce fruits even after severe late freezes.

Sometimes, even if you have the right cultivar for your area, a late frost kills your blossoms anyway. Your best bet is to consult with your county extension agent to learn which varieties typically do well where you live.

Peaches are divided into freestone or clingstone types. Freestone just means the pit isn’t attached to the flesh and can easily be removed. Clingstones are more popular for canning and freestones are more popular for fresh eating.

Not to confuse the issue, but there are also semi-cling varieties, which are somewhere in between, though most growers don’t worry about those. They just call them clingstones.

Managing Pests and Disease

Peaches are so incredibly delicious, and the trees themselves are beautiful. But there is a serious downside to growing peaches.

They have a higher-than-average susceptibility to disease and pests. If you don’t experience a problem, you are in the lucky minority.

Don’t let that turn you away. The bright side is that because pests and disease are so common, we’ve become pretty adept at dealing with these issues.

Some people mistake sunscald for a disease, but this is caused by winter wind and sun damage. It results in cracks, discoloration, or damage on the southwest part of the trunk.

This damage leaves the tree open to pests and diseases. If you experience this issue, wrap your trees in burlap during the winter from the soil line to the lowest branches.

We also need to note that while peaches start producing quickly, they don’t last long.

Commercial growers replace their trees every decade or so, while home garden specimens last about 20 years.

If your tree is reaching its second decade in life and you find it isn’t producing well anymore, it might just be an age issue and not any type of pest or disease.

Let’s talk about the first challenge: herbivores.

Herbivores

Squirrels, rats, and birds will eat both immature and mature peaches.

While rats are usually more of a problem with fallen fruit, they can and will climb the tree and eat or carry off the fruits. The same goes for squirrels. Birds won’t carry off the fruit, but they’ll peck at it, rendering it inedible to humans.

There isn’t much you can do about these critters except plant enough trees to satisfy your needs. Clean up any fallen fruit and use netting if you’re determined to prevent pecking.

Insects

In addition to the insects on this list, you may occasionally encounter tarnished plant bugs, stink bugs, fruit moths, and European red mites. Here are the most common and damaging pests:

Aphids

Aphids are common garden pests, and they’re especially common on peach trees.

There’s even an aphid named for their favorite source of food: the green peach aphid (Myzus persicae). Mealy plum aphids (Hyalopterus pruni) are also common.

When these small sapsuckers feed on trees it causes a host of symptoms, from curled, yellowed leaves to sooty mold thanks to deposits of sticky honeydew, stunted growth, and dropping foliage.

Dormant spray can help suppress populations, and beneficial insects are vital.

Learn more about controlling aphids in our guide.

Earwigs

European earwigs (Forficula auricularia) can’t pass up a peachy meal. They will chomp their way through the leaves of the tree at night.

Once the peaches start to ripen, they’ll start devouring the fruits in addition to the foliage.

These beetles eat the leaves of the plant and they’re pretty easy to identify.

If you spot the metallic, half-inch-long insects, you might just opt to ignore them. But that’s not always possible, especially if the infestation is bad.

If you can’t stand it, read our guide to managing Japanese beetle infestations to learn more.

Peach Tree Borers

Peach tree borers (Synanthedon exitiosa and S. pictipes) suck. Like, suck with a capital S-U-C-K.

They’re the most destructive pests of peaches and other stone fruits and they can be a nightmare to control. The adults look like wasps, but it’s the larvae that cause all the trouble.

The larvae eat the wood of the lower part of the tree and the roots during the spring, leaving behind extensive damage.

Peach Twig Borers

Peach twig borers (Anarsia lineatella) are the larvae of moths that feed on leaves, blossoms, and young shoots. The second generation will feed on the fruits, entering at the stem end.

The half-inch-long worms start out white with a black head and transition to dark brown as they mature.

Apply a product that contains spinosad, such as Monterey Garden Insect Spray, which we discuss above, or a product that contains Bacillus thuringiensis v. kurstaki.

Whichever you choose, timing is crucial.

Spray the tree when the blossoms are present and again when the fruits are just beginning to ripen. 

Bonus! If you spray with Btk during bloom time, you can also reduce the likelihood of brown rot.

Learn more about peach twig borers in our guide.

Plum Curculio

Plum curculios (Conotrachelus nenuphar) are ugly brown snout beetles that can be extremely destructive in orchards.

The quarter-inch-long beetle feeds on the young fruits of stone fruit trees, causing catfacing.

The females lay their eggs in the fruit, and the resulting larvae burrow into the flesh. This causes scarring, rotting, and early fruit drop.

Both of these small sapsuckers feed on the sap of the trees, and while they might be small, they can do a lot of damage.

Most people don’t realize they’re dealing with scale unless they’ve experienced the problem before.

That’s because the tree will look kind of stunted, wilty, or sad, but when you look close, you don’t see what you think are insects. You see little lumps on the bark that don’t move.

They also tend to disappear for years at a time and then make a brief comeback.

We have a guide explaining why a broom and some patience are your best bets for dealing with these caterpillars.

Disease

Fungal problems are unfortunately common with peaches, and the best treatment is prevention.

Be sure to remove all fruit at the end of the season (if the squirrels don’t do it for you). Clean up fallen fruit, leaves, and other potentially fungus-harboring materials from the ground around the tree.

In addition to the following issues, watch for crown gall and rhizopus rot.

Bacterial Canker

The bacteria Pseudomonas syringae causes oozing cankers to form at injury sites or leaf or flower buds.

These cankers release a honey-like gum and can strangle the branch, causing it to die beyond the canker. Inside, underneath the bark, the tree turns sour-smelling and rotten.

The disease favors high humidity or rainy weather and moderate temperatures of 55 to 75°F, which means spring is its favorite time of year. It also prefers trees that are already weakened, and can spread on garden tools.

Since there’s no known cure, the main method of control is to prune off dead areas and do your best to keep your tree healthy.

To avoid bacterial canker, prune trees to improve air circulation and plant them an appropriate distance apart.

Clean your tools before using them near your trees and clean up any debris around your plants in the fall.

Bacterial Spot

There are several diseases that can cause spots to form on the leaves and fruits, but bacterial spot stands out because it causes angular gray spots on the underside of the leaves.

These appear water-soaked and eventually turn purple before rotting. On fruits, these can ooze a brown gum.

Caused by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris, it needs moisture to breed and spread, so it’s rare to see bacterial spot during dry summers. Moist springs, however, are its heyday.

Brown Rot

Brown rot is extremely common and damaging. It’s caused by the fungus Monilinia fructicola and results in gray spores that rot the fruit.

Before that happens, the blossoms on the tree might turn mushy and brown, and twigs may develop cankers marked with brown spores.

The affected fruit might become mummified, and those fruits which harbor the fungus enable the disease to spread the following year.

All mummified and fallen fruits should be removed and disposed of.

Any insect that feeds on the fruit, leaves, or wood causes damage that leaves the plant exposed to the fungal pathogens that cause this infection.

Fungal Gummosis

Gummosis is one of those diseases that is hard to mistake for anything else.

When the fungi that cause it (Leucostoma persoonii and L. cincta) are around, the tree will exhibit oozing gummy areas on the wood. These fungi look for wounds or damage through which to enter.

Any sort of injury, from pruning to insect damage, invites this disease in, and treatment is sadly difficult. Gummosis tends to be more prevalent in warmer locations and no cultivar is immune to Leucostoma fungi.

We have a guide to help you learn how to prevent or treat gummosis.

Note that fungal gummosis is caused by a fungal pathogen, but you might hear people refer to gummosis as any sort of gummy-like sap oozing from a tree.

In this case, we simply mean that an injury has allowed the pathogen to enter the tree and caused the oozing symptom.

Leaf Curl

Leaf curl is a fungal disease caused by Taphrina deformans. As the name suggests, it causes the leaves to wrinkle and curl up.

Those leaves might also develop yellow, orange, or red patches, and the wrinkled, puckered areas might also form a white coating.

The affected leaves may turn brown and die or they may fall off the tree.

Copper fungicide should be sprayed on the tree every year just after the leaves have dropped to help prevent the fungus from attacking again in the following year.

Phony Peach Disease

A healthy-looking tree that suddenly stops producing fruit might be infected by the bacteria Xylella fastidiosa subsp. multiplex, which causes phony peach disease (PPD).

Once infected, there is no known cure, but prevention is possible. Learn about this disease in our guide.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is caused by the pathogens Podosphaera leucotricha and Sphaerotheca pannosa, which are fungi that attack plants in the Rosaceae family.

It causes a white or gray powdery growth on leaf and flower buds, followed by misshapen fruits.

Young fruits will start to exhibit green spots, which enlarge and turn brown as the fruit matures.

Sometimes you can just peel and eat the inside of the fruit, but other times the fruit will crack open and rot.

We have a whole guide to scab to help you learn how to identify and address this fungal issue.

Harvesting

It’s picking time! Peaches are ready to harvest when:

• They’re soft
• There’s no more green color on the fruit
• They come off easily with a slight twist

You can’t always go by color unless you’re familiar with the mature color of the cultivar you’re growing. Some peaches are almost white when mature and others need to be deep orange-red.

The fruits at the top and around the outside of the tree usually ripen first.

Be careful as you remove the fruit, as it bruises easily. If you do bruise a fruit, process or eat it right away because it won’t keep.

Pro tip: if you’re picking peaches and you can’t resist taking a bite, just loudly announce that “this one is bruised” and you can’t get in trouble for sampling the goods before the job is done.

You’re doing your part to prevent a bruised fruit from rotting and ruining any nearby fruits, and you deserve to be rewarded with a juicy mouthful.

You also can’t rely on the cultivar-specific recommended timing to tell you when to harvest. Nursery tags will often tell you that a certain cultivar should be ready by mid-August, for instance.

Peaches may be ready any time from late April (such as ‘Flordaking’) to late September (‘Jefferson’), but the timing will differ depending on your region and this year’s weather as well as the cultivar you choose.

When in doubt, take a bite of one.

And don’t worry if the fruit doesn’t fully ripen on the tree. Peaches are climacteric fruits, which means that the fruit itself produces ethylene, which aids in ripening.

This process continues even after you remove the fruit from the tree. So, if you happen to pluck a fruit that is a little underripe, just give it some time. It will soften up.

Of course, that also means the fruit will continue to soften past the point of peak ripeness, and you’ll be left with a soggy mess if you don’t use them in time.

But if you’ve ever eaten your average grocery store peach, which is typically harvested when immature, you know they never achieve the soft, sweetness of fruits allowed to mature on the tree.

Preserving

Don’t put those fresh peaches in the fridge!

I mean, it’s your life, and you can do what you want, but peaches turn mealy when you subject them to lower temperatures. Instead, store them in a cool, dark area for a few days at most.

You can also wash and slice the fruits and dry them in a dehydrator, or turn them into fruit leather.

Peach jam is a piece of summer that you can eat during the dreary winter days. Whip some up using this recipe from our sister site, Foodal.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Everyone knows how incredible peaches are fresh off the tree or baked into pies, cobblers, and cakes. As a topping or ingredient in ice cream, they’re pretty hard to replicate.

But don’t let the peach love end there. These incredible fruits can be used in savory recipes as well. Use them to top meat, fill empanadas, or in a savory salad.

Ever had peach slices on pizza? Make it happen! This spinach and goat cheese pizza with a kefir and spelt crust from Foodal makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

Or make a quick snack with sweet peaches, creamy ricotta, and spicy basil on flatbread, also from Foodal.

To bring peaches to the summer dinner table, check out Foodal’s chipotle peach topping for chicken.

Amaranth is a source of beauty, color & food in my low desert summer garden. I love seeing the brightly-colored seed heads shine in the late afternoon sun. The birds and other pollinators are drawn to it as well. Amaranth does more than double duty in my garden as it also yields edible leaves and grain, and its stems are magnificent in cut flower arrangements. Learn how to grow amaranth, and consider adding it to your spring and monsoon planting list.

---

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

---

Amaranth History & Information

There is a long history of Amaranth being grown in Arizona and surrounding areas. Among others, the Aztecs considered amaranth a significant crop, receiving tribute payments from neighboring provinces and believing it to be the “food of Gods.” Indigenous people in the Southwest and Northern Mexico still gather wild amaranth greens, symbolizing the monsoon rains. For seeds and to learn more about the history of amaranth, visit NaitveSeeds.Org. 

Amaranth (and sunflowers) are considered “another sister” in a “Three Sisters Garden.” The tall stalks attract pollinators, provide shade, and are an additional trellis for the beans to climb. 

Amaranthus is often monoecious, which means it has individual flowers that are either male or female, but both can be found on the same plant. The plant is pollinated by the wind. Amaranth is an annual or short-lived perennial. In some areas, amaranth is often considered a weed, and care should be taken to remove the seed head if you do not wish amaranth to reseed in your garden.

---

Amaranth Varieties to Try

There are different types of amaranth, with some being more suitable for consumption while others are often ornamental. 

---

Where and When to Plant Amaranth

Amaranth thrives in warm temperatures and full sun (at least 6 hours) but benefits from afternoon shade in hot summer climate areas. It grows best in nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. Amend soil with compost before planting. 

Plant amaranth seeds directly in the garden once the soil has warmed up in the spring. Barely cover seeds with 1/4” (6mm) of soil. Thin plants to 12-18” (30-45cm) apart, depending on the variety.

Alternatively, you can start the seeds indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date, then transplant seedlings outdoors once the soil has warmed up.

Low desert of Arizona planting dates: March – April and July – August with the monsoon moisture.

---

---

How to Grow Amaranth and Care for It as It Grows

Learning how to grow amaranth is fairly simple. Here’s what to do once it begins growing:

• Stake plants if necessary. I use bamboo poles. 

---

Amaranth Harvesting Tips

Begin harvesting leaves as soon as they’re big enough to eat. Cut the leaves at the base of the stem, leaving the plant intact. Small tender leaves are best for fresh eating; larger leaves are best cooked.

If you’re growing amaranth for its grains, harvest the seed head before it dries and drops the seeds. (Fallen seeds may mean you’ll have amaranth volunteers popping up for years to come.) Place the seed head in a paper sack. Once dry, shake the seed heads to remove the seeds, winnow them to remove any chaff, and store them in a dry, cool place for future use.

Harvest amaranth for cut flowers when the seed heads are large, and the color intensifies. Strip bottom leaves to prevent wilting. The stems last 7-10 days in a vase with a floral preservative. 

---

Uses for Amaranth

• Amaranth leaves are rich in vitamins and minerals. Eat fresh or cook like spinach. 
• The grain is gluten-free and a “complete protein” (contains all of the essential amino acids), making it an excellent substitute for wheat. Use the grain to make porridge, bread, or even popcorn. 
• Amaranth adds a vibrant pop of color and texture to cut flower arrangements.

---

If this post about how to grow amaranth was helpful, please share it:

---

By Guest Author John Hammond

What are stone fruits?

Stone fruits are those that have a large pit inside of the fruit – referred to as a “stone”. Some refer to the stone as the seed, but it isn’t – the seed is actually inside the stone. Examples of stone fruits include apricots, cherries, plums, coconuts, peaches, dates, mangoes, and olives.

What organic methods can be used to prevent fungal diseases in stone fruits?

As a fruit tree grower, I understand the importance of preventing fungal diseases in stone fruits. These diseases can wreak havoc on fruit trees, compromising their health and productivity. Thankfully, there are several organic methods that can be employed to combat fungal diseases and ensure the well-being of a stone fruit orchard.

Cultural practices

One of the fundamental organic approaches to disease prevention is using proper cultural practices. Good orchard hygiene goes a long way in preventing the spread of fungal pathogens. Regularly removing fallen leaves, picking out and picking up diseased or dropped fruit, pruning dead or diseased branches, avoiding overhead watering, and ensuring adequate air circulation within the tree can minimize the conditions that favor fungal growth.

Pruning and sanitation

As a seasoned fruit tree grower, I have witnessed firsthand the transformative effects of pruning and sanitation on the health and productivity of stone fruit orchards.

Pruning is a critical cultural practice. By removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches, we can eliminate potential entry points for fungal pathogens. Proper pruning techniques also promote better air circulation within the canopy, allowing the foliage to dry quickly after rain or irrigation. This reduces the amount of time moisture lingers on the leaves, creating an environment less conducive to fungal growth.

Sanitation practices go hand in hand with pruning to control fungal diseases. Proper sanitation is the removal and disposal of fallen leaves, fruit mummies, and other plant debris from the orchard floor. These materials serve as potential sources of fungal spores, which can infect healthy fruit trees.

Regularly cleaning and disinfecting pruning tools also helps to reduce fungal diseases. Tools can harbor fungal spores and other pathogens, and if not properly sanitized, they can inadvertently spread diseases from branch to branch and tree to tree. A simple practice of wiping tools with a disinfectant solution or dipping them in a bleach solution between cuts helps prevent the transmission of fungal pathogens.

Timing is crucial when implementing pruning and sanitation practices. Pruning during the dormant season is ideal, as the absence of foliage allows for better visibility and access to dead, damaged or diseased branches. Destroy pruned materials promptly (do not compost) to prevent the accumulation of infectious spores. Sanitation should be practiced throughout the year, with particular attention paid to fallen leaves and diseased fruit.

Irrigation

Implementing a well-thought-out irrigation system is crucial for organic disease management. Overhead watering, such as sprinklers, can promote the spread of fungal spores by creating moist conditions on the leaves and fruit surfaces. Instead, opt for drip irrigation or soaker hoses that deliver water directly to the soil, minimizing wet leaves. This practice helps reduce the likelihood of fungal infections and supports healthier tree growth.

Spacing your trees

Proper spacing between stone fruit trees is another cultural practice that helps with disease prevention. Sufficient spacing allows for adequate air circulation, which helps to dry foliage and minimize the chance of fungal spores finding favorable conditions to grow and multiply. It is important to consider the mature size of the trees when planting, allowing ample room for the canopy to develop without crowding neighboring trees.

Mulching

Mulching is a valuable cultural practice that can provide numerous benefits, including disease control. Organic mulch materials, such as wood chips or straw, create a barrier between the soil and the fruit, reducing the likelihood of soil-borne fungal pathogens splashing onto the fruit during rain or irrigation. Mulch also helps regulate soil moisture, preventing excessive wetness that can contribute to fungal disease development.

Proper nutrition

Promoting tree vigor through proper nutrition and soil health is crucial. Organic fertilizers, rich in essential nutrients, can strengthen the tree’s natural defense mechanisms, making them more resilient to fungal infections. Conducting soil tests to assess nutrient levels and pH can guide the application of organic amendments to optimize soil conditions for healthy tree growth.

Monitor the tree or orchard

Regularly monitoring and scouting the orchard (or the area round your tree) are essential cultural practices for disease control. By inspecting the trees for early signs of fungal infections, such as leaf spots or fruit rot, immediate action can be taken to reduce the spread of the disease. Prompt removal and disposal of infected plant parts, coupled with appropriate organic treatments if necessary, can prevent the disease from spreading further and affecting the entire orchard.

Organic fungicides

Organic fungicides derived from natural sources can also be effective in managing fungal diseases. One of the most commonly used organic fungicides in stone fruit orchards is copper-based sprays. Copper has long been recognized for its fungicidal properties and is widely used in organic farming. They are particularly effective against diseases like peach leaf curl, bacterial spot, and brown rot. It is important, however, to use copper fungicides judiciously, as excessive applications can lead to copper accumulation in the soil, which may have adverse effects on soil health, soil pH, and beneficial microorganisms.

Organic growers also use biological fungicides derived from naturally occurring microorganisms:

Bacillus subtilis

When applied to stone fruit trees, Bacillus subtilis creates a protective barrier on the plant surface, preventing fungal pathogens from establishing. It is effective against diseases like brown rot and canker. Moreover, Bacillus subtilis is non-toxic to humans, animals, and beneficial insects, making it an excellent choice.

Trichoderma harzianum

Another promising biological fungicide is Trichoderma harzianum, a naturally occurring fungus. Trichoderma harzianum colonizes the rhizosphere and root system, inhibiting the growth of pathogenic fungi. It is particularly effective against soil-borne pathogens like Armillaria root rot and Rhizoctonia root rot.

Essential oils

In recent years, essential oils derived from plants have gained attention as potential organic fungicides. For example, extracts from neem oil, derived from the seeds of the neem tree, have been shown to exhibit antifungal properties. Neem oil disrupts fungal cell membranes, inhibiting their growth and reproduction. It is effective against diseases such as powdery mildew and brown rot. Neem oil is biodegradable, non-toxic to humans and animals, and poses minimal risk to beneficial insects.

Multiple ingredient organic fungicides

Apart from these specific fungicides, there are also organic fungicide formulations that combine multiple active ingredients. These formulations often contain a combination of natural compounds and plant extracts that work synergistically to control fungal diseases. They provide a broader spectrum of disease control and offer improved efficacy against challenging pathogens.

Soil Amendments

When it comes to organic fruit tree cultivation, the health and vitality of the soil cannot be underestimated. As a seasoned fruit tree grower, I have come to appreciate the crucial role that soil amendments play in preventing fungal diseases in stone fruits.

Soil amendments can help with disease prevention. Organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, improves soil structure and enhances its ability to retain moisture while promoting beneficial microbial activity. Healthy soil conditions help to fortify the tree’s natural defenses, reducing their susceptibility to infections.

The presence of organic matter in the soil also encourages the growth of beneficial microorganisms. These microscopic allies play a vital role in maintaining soil health and balance. Certain beneficial bacteria and fungi have the ability to suppress fungal pathogens by either outcompeting them for resources or directly inhibiting their growth. By nurturing a diverse and thriving microbial community through the addition of soil amendments, we create an ecosystem that naturally combats fungal diseases.

Organic matter also helps to regulate soil moisture levels. It acts as a sponge, absorbing excess water during periods of heavy rain and slowly releasing it during dry spells. Maintaining proper soil moisture is vital in preventing fungal diseases, as many fungi thrive in damp conditions.

Soil amendments contribute to the overall long-term health and sustainability of the soil. By adding organic matter regularly, we improve soil structure and fertility, which in turn promotes a balanced ecosystem. A healthy soil ecosystem encourages the growth of beneficial organisms that naturally suppress fungal diseases. It also supports the growth of beneficial plants, such as cover crops or companion plants, which can contribute to disease prevention.

Biological controls

Beneficial organisms such as predatory mites or beneficial fungi can be used to combat specific fungal pathogens. These natural allies prey on the harmful fungi or compete for resources, effectively suppressing the target fungi populations and preventing disease development.

Predatory mites

One notable example of a biological control method is the use of predatory mites. These tiny arachnids are natural enemies of various pest species, including some fungal pathogens. Predatory mites actively seek out and feed on the harmful fungi, reducing their populations.

Beneficial fungi

Another biological control is beneficial fungi. Some species of fungi, known as mycoparasites, possess the remarkable ability to attack and destroy fungal pathogens. These mycoparasitic fungi invade the harmful fungi, competing for resources and ultimately leading to their demise.

Trichoderma species are widely recognized for their antagonistic properties against fungal pathogens. These beneficial fungi colonize the root zone, establishing a protective barrier that prevents the colonization of harmful fungi. Through their competitive interactions and production of antifungal compounds, Trichoderma species effectively suppress fungal diseases in stone fruits.

Beneficial bacteria

Some strains of bacteria have been found to produce compounds that inhibit the growth of fungal pathogens. These bacteria can be applied to the tree as a spray or incorporated into the soil, providing long-term protection against fungal diseases.

Biological control methods are not a one-size-fits-all solution. They require careful consideration and understanding of the target pathogens, as well as the beneficial organisms being introduced. Select the appropriate species or strains of beneficial organisms that are effective against the specific fungal diseases affecting your stone fruits. Proper application techniques and timing should be followed to maximize success.

Unlike synthetic chemical treatments, biological controls do not leave harmful residues or negatively impact the environment. They work in harmony with nature, promoting a balanced ecosystem within the orchard. But their effectiveness can vary depending on the specific disease, environmental conditions, and cultural practices. Biological controls should be combined with other organic strategies, such as cultural practices and disease-resistant varieties, to achieve comprehensive disease management.

Plant disease-resistant varieties

As an experienced fruit tree grower with a passion for organic cultivation, I am thrilled to share my insights on effective disease-resistant stone fruit varieties that can be grown organically. Selecting the right cultivars minimizes the risk of disease outbreaks and ensures the health and productivity of your trees. These are a few noteworthy stone fruit varieties that have shown excellent disease resistance in organic growing conditions:

1. Reliance Peach (Prunus persica): Reliance Peach is a remarkable variety known for its exceptional resistance to peach leaf curl. This cultivar thrives in organic orchards and produces flavorful, juicy peaches.
2. Saturn Peach (Prunus persica): The Saturn Peach, also known as the Donut Peach, is an outstanding variety with good resistance to bacterial spot, a prevalent disease in stone fruits. This unique peach variety produces flat, disc-shaped fruits with a sweet, juicy flavor.
3. Elberta Peach (Prunus persica): Elberta Peach is a classic variety renowned for its excellent disease resistance and versatility. It is resistant to multiple fungal diseases, including peach leaf curl and brown rot. Elberta peaches are large, juicy, and aromatic.
4. Redhaven Peach (Prunus persica): Redhaven Peach is a widely grown variety known for its vigorous growth and remarkable resistance to brown rot. With its firm, flavorful fruits and strong disease resistance, Redhaven is an ideal choice for organic growers.
5. Flavor Grenade Pluot (Prunus domestica x Prunus salicina): A cross between plum and apricot, Flavor Grenade Pluot stands out not only for its exceptional flavor but also for its resistance to bacterial canker. This variety produces elongated, green-skinned fruits with a flavor reminiscent of tropical fruits.

Intercropping and companion planting

As a dedicated fruit tree grower, I am always on the lookout for innovative organic strategies to control fungal diseases in stone fruits. One approach that has caught my attention is intercropping or companion planting, which involves growing different plant species together to enhance the overall health and resilience of the orchard ecosystem. For example, interplanting stone fruits with aromatic herbs like basil or marigold can repel some fungal pathogens.

Intercropping and companion planting offer a range of benefits that can contribute to the control of fungal diseases in stone fruits. One advantage lies in the manipulation of the microenvironment. By carefully selecting companion plants, we can create an ecosystem that is less favorable to fungal pathogens. Certain companion plants possess natural defense mechanisms that repel or suppress the growth of fungi, helping to reduce disease pressure on stone fruit trees. Companion plants like garlic, onion, or chives contain natural compounds that have antifungal properties, which can inhibit the growth and spread of fungal pathogens when grown alongside stone fruit trees.

In addition to altering the microenvironment, intercropping and companion planting can also enhance biodiversity within the orchard. A diverse ecosystem promotes a healthy balance of beneficial insects, such as ladybugs or lacewings, which are natural predators of fungal pests. These helpful insects contribute to the biological control of diseases by consuming the pests that transmit fungal pathogens, effectively reducing their population and limiting disease spread.

While intercropping and companion planting hold promise as organic strategies to control fungal diseases in stone fruits, it is important to note that they should not be seen as standalone solutions. These techniques work best when integrated with other cultural practices and disease management strategies. Regular monitoring for disease symptoms, maintaining proper orchard hygiene, and implementing organic fungicides when necessary are all important components of an effective disease control program.

Author’s Bio: John Hammond is a seasoned backyard fruit tree grower with a degree in horticulture. Hailing from the Midwest, John’s love for gardening and cultivating fruit trees began at a young age. He is an expert in his field and his advice is highly sought-after by fellow gardeners and fruit tree enthusiasts. John continues to push the boundaries of fruit tree cultivation and has recently started experimenting with new grafting techniques.

Joseph Simcox, the Botanical Explorer, left us a comment about landrace watermelons in Africa:

Hello father and son,
Joseph Lofthouse is unique in this day in age only because we have grown so accustomed to “dividing and conquering” ( so to speak) in the modern worlds that we live. Growing melons like Moon and Stars or Desert King is not a limitation in itself but rather a fascination with character and consistency. When your plant the seeds of a “homogenous” variety you are pretty assured of getting the same delight. Now in many cases these were selections originally from landraces. I see endless fun in throwing together vastly different selections and am all for doing so. The keen eye of humans has been preferential in selecting out particular traits since times long passed. Recently I myself was on a ” wild goose chase” of sorts …in Botswana and Zimbabwe buying up watermelons along my wanderings, taking photos and notes and eating and saving the seeds! What landrace treasures I found and what genetic gems! Among things that dawned on me… Less groomed (I’ll just call them more fecund) melons) are chuck full of seeds..as we sat at the breakfast and dinner tables eating seedy melons a provocative thought hit me…eating seedy melons is a pastime invitation, a time to savor and reflect,; a time to slow down and enjoy! 

This morning I posted a short clip of my son Ezekiel walking through his landrace watermelons in the Grocery Row Gardens.

There, he has all types of watermelons mixed together – and we haven’t even gotten into the varieties from overseas.

Joseph’s experience in the markets of Africa is quite similar to what we saw on the island of Grenada with various tropical pumpkin varieties. The abundance of varieties – the shapes – the colors! It was unlike anything we see in the states, as there were blurry lines between cultivars, as cross-pollination was common. Varieties might be similar on one farmer’s plot of land as he saved what he liked – or on one mountain – but then you’d see quite different-looking pumpkins in the next town or market, or just over the hill. And as people saved and planted seeds from pumpkins they found in the market, the varieties would continue to cross-pollinate and change. There was no obsessive desire to breed and then stop pumpkins from crossing so they’d always keep the same type. This was both good and bad, as sometimes you’d get watery, bland pumpkins and sometimes you’d get amazing ones – yet it really kept things interesting.

And as for watermelons, I’m going to get in touch with Mr. Simcox and see if we can trade some seeds.

PLANT SALE TOMORROW

Come meet us and get some “GOOD” plants!

We will have our nursery booth set up on Saturday, JUNE 17, at the Atmore Flea Market, from 8AM to 1PM.

ADDRESS: 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL

Some of the plants for sale include: Pineapple guava, Chaste tree, Echinacea, Edible cannas, Sweet Shrub, Jerusalem artichoke, Comfrey, Tobacco, Bamboo (giant yellow timber type) “Robert Young”, Longevity spinach, Tropical milkweed, Chocolate mint, Stevia, Banana (Dwarf Cavendish), Daisies, Elderberries …and a few more rare tidbits

We will also have books, and would love to talk gardening when you stop by.

SPECIAL DISCOUNT OFFER!

We like to recycle pots and reuse them, so we’ll give you a $.50 credit on any blank, useable, one-gallon or larger pot you bring to our booth. Bring what you have and trade ’em in for plants!

Hope to see you there.

Share this post!

Heaths and heathers are popular evergreen shrubs in the Ericaceae family, beloved in temperate gardens for their flower and foliage colors, spreading habit, and easy care.

And they propagate readily with the right treatment.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Winter heaths, Erica carnea, hybrids, and other Erica species are known as winter/spring heathers and they have outstanding cold hardiness.

Flowering when it’s too cold for most plants, they’re among the first to bloom and create gorgeous waves of fuchsia, magenta, mauve, pink, or white in late winter to spring, providing an important early food source for bees.

Scotch, summer, or ling heathers, Calluna vulgaris, are the summer/fall varieties and these also have exceptional cold hardiness.

These varieties bloom in midsummer and fall, with flower colors in mauve, pink, purple, ruby, or white.

And many C. vulgaris cultivars have vibrant, color-changing foliage – starting out with bronze, burgundy, chartreuse, coral, gray, green, or gold foliage in spring, they turn mostly green for summer, and then take on bronze and plum hues in winter.

Varieties in both genera are easily cultivated and make beautiful accents, borders, ground covers, and container or rockery plants.

Plus, they have excellent drought tolerance once established, are salt resistant, and deer leave them alone.

Regardless of the type growing in your garden, propagation methods are the same.

These woody shrubs take some time to root, but with a little patience, you can enjoy many multiples of your favorite varieties, with colors and characteristics true to the parents – or not, if you prefer to take your chances with the wild card look!

Are you and your garden ready for more colorful, easy-care heaths and heathers? Then join us now for all the details on how to propagate heather plants.

Here’s what you’ll find ahead:

Heath and Heather Basics

Low-growing winter heaths (Erica spp.) have a mature height of 12 to 24 inches and typically flower from January to May.

Erica is a large genus of flowering evergreens native to parts of Africa and Europe. These feature needle-like leaves.

They do best in acidic soil with a pH of 4.5 to 6.0, with some types like E. carnea being tolerant of neutral to slightly alkaline soil with a pH of 7.0 to 7.5.

Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 7, many do well in Zone 4 with ample snow cover.

Heathers (C. vulgaris) are summer flowering and taller, forming mounds of up to 36 inches that need annual pruning to maintain an attractive shape.

Native to Europe and Asia Minor, there are hundreds of summer-flowering cultivars with flattish, cedar-like leaves.

C. vulgaris plants need acidic soil with a pH of 4.5 to 6.0 and are hardy in Zones 4 to 6.

All types need well-draining soil and full sun. And in both genera, many varieties do well in warmer regions with dry heat provided they have some afternoon shade.

Unfortunately, neither heaths nor heathers do well in hot, humid conditions.

Learn more about heathers in our growing guide.

Seed Propagation

Heath and heather species plants can be propagated from seed, but results vary considerably with no guarantee that seedlings will have the same characteristics as the parents.

And many cultivars are sterile, producing no seeds at all or ones that aren’t viable for growth.

So if you’re up for cultivating some mystery plants, here’s how to propagate seed.

Collect seeds a few weeks after flowering when the flower capsules are dry and store them in a dry container in a cool, dark environment.

Seeds germinate best when they’re fresh and sprout in cool temperatures, so starting them in autumn is optimal – but early spring works as well.

Fill small starter pots with a loamy, slightly acidic growing medium. Or mix one part peat moss with three parts seed-starting mix for a slightly acidic blend.

Water lightly to moisten.

Sow the small seeds on the soil surface about half an inch apart and cover lightly with soil, then firm gently. Germination can be spotty, so plant four to six seeds per pot. Should they all germinate, thin out the weakest and smallest to discard.

To avoid disturbing the seeds, water pots from the bottom or use a spray bottle to mist the soil surface until it’s thoroughly moist.

Place pots in a cool location, ideally 55 to 70°F, in bright, indirect light.

Keep the soil lightly moist at all times.

Seeds typically germinate at around 30 days but can take up to 90 days to sprout.

After seedlings are about two inches tall, pinch out the tops to encourage branching.

Move seedlings outdoors into a protected, frost-free area with bright light and regular water.  Plant out in early spring after new growth appears.

Layering

Layering stems until they root produces true copies of the parent and is the easiest propagation method. Layering can be done at any time, but it also takes the longest.

To layer, choose a nonflowering outer branch from around the plant’s perimeter and remove all foliage from the section to be layered.

Create a small trench one to two inches deep and just inside the drip line. If needed, mound soil into a small hill and then make a trench in the hilltop.

Gently pull the selected branch down and lay the defoliated section in the trench.

Backfill the trench with soil and anchor the layered stem section in place with a rock or tent peg, ensuring at least two inches of the stem tip is above the soil.

Water the parent plant regularly for at least six months, then test to see if rooting has occurred in the buried section.

Test by removing the anchor and giving the growing tip a gentle tug. If you feel resistance or see new growth emerging from the trench area, the layered stem has rooted.

Use clean, sharp garden shears to snip the layered branch from the parent plant.

Dig up the layered root ball and take plenty of soil with it. Insert a trowel six inches deep and four inches out from the layered stem to prevent damaging tender new roots.

Transplant into a garden bed or container as soon as the new plant is removed from the parent.

Rooting Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings of semi-ripe wood also produce clones and this is probably the most reliable propagation method – but they require a bit of attention for success.

Stem cuttings for C. vulgaris varieties are best taken in late summer or early autumn after flowering has finished.

Erica cuttings should be taken in early summer after they’ve finished flowering.

Choose long, flexible, and nonflowering stems from the plant’s perimeter.

Carefully pull down to peel it away from the main stem, taking a small section, or “heel” of the main stem with it. The ideal is to have a heel about one-half to one inch long, exposing both the inner and outer bark.

Dip heel sections into a rooting hormone if desired.

Fill four-inch starter pots with a half-and-half mix of landscape sand and compost.

Soak the rooting medium until it’s wet and insert two or three stems into each pot, firming the soil around each stem.

Cover pots with a small, clear cloche or use a plastic bag, but don’t allow it to touch the foliage. Use bamboo skewers or chopsticks to tent the plastic and keep it away from the cuttings.

Set pots in a location with bright, indirect light and cool temperatures of 60 to 70°F.

Keep the soil continuously moist.

Lift the cloche or plastic bag for a few hours every week to air out plants or when condensation becomes too heavy.

New growth starts to appear in three to four months. If nothing shows in six months and tugged cuttings pull up easily, rooting has failed – toss your cuttings and try again next summer.

Once successful cuttings have several sets of new leaves, harden them off in a partly shady spot outdoors for seven to 14 days.

Plant out into the garden or containers at least four weeks prior to your first expected frost date.

Patience Required

Showy, flowering evergreens, you can easily propagate your favorite heath and heather plants… but it won’t happen quickly!

Seeds can give the fastest results, but germination is spotty and results vary with offspring often having characteristics different from the parent plant.

Layering and stem cuttings create new plants identical to their parents, but they can take several months to root.

Whatever method you choose, keep the soil consistently moist and be patient – no tugging on stems before they’re ready!

What heath or heather cultivars would you like to multiply? Tell us in the comments section below.

And for more showy flowers to propagate, add these guides to your reading list next:

If you’re looking for a way to enjoy fresh cucumbers in the heat of summer, look no further than Armenian cucumbers. These unique veggies thrive in hot climates and offer a delicious, refreshing taste that’s perfect for salads, pickles, and more. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to grow Armenian cucumbers.

---

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

---

Are Armenian cucumbers really cucumbers?

First cultivated in Armenia in the 15th century, Armenian cucumbers (also called yard-long cucumbers), despite their name and appearance, are not true cucumbers. They are actually a type of musk melon (Cucumis melo var. flexuosus) that belongs to the same family as cucumbers. However, they taste similar to cucumbers and have a similar internal structure, which is why they are commonly called and treated as cucumbers in culinary contexts.

---

6 Tips for How to Grow Armenian Cucumbers

---

1. Plant Armenian cucumbers at the right time

These plants are particularly well-suited for hot climates as they tolerate higher temperatures than most cucumber varieties. This makes them an excellent choice for gardeners in warmer regions who struggle to grow traditional cucumbers. Armenian cucumbers are one of only a handful of vegetables that can be planted through July in the low desert.

There are many varieties of Armenian cucumbers. Try a few different types to see which you prefer. My favorite variety is the painted serpent Armenian cucumber.

Before planting, prepare the soil by amending it with compost. 

Plant Armenian cucumber seeds when it is warm outside (consistent days above 65℉/18°C and 80℉/26°C are even better).

Plant 2-3 seeds ½ to 1″ (1-2cm) deep, about 1 foot (30cm) apart. When seeds are 3-4″ (75-100cm) tall, thin to 1 plant every foot (30cm).

Planting dates for the low desert of Arizona: 

Although you can plant transplants, Armenian cucumber seeds do best directly sown in the garden. Click here for Armenian cucumber seeds.

---

---

2. Plant Armenian cucumbers in the best location

• Choose a location that gets at least 6-8 hours of sunlight. Afternoon shade is preferred but not required in hot summer climate areas.
• Armenian cucumbers are best grown on some sort of trellis to keep them off the ground. Trellised fruits will grow straighter. Armenian cucumbers love to vine and can easily take over a garden. If you are looking for vertical gardening ideas, read this post.

• Do not overcrowd plants. Crowded plants are more susceptible to pests and diseases like powdery mildew and squash bugs. Allow at least one foot (30cm) between plants for vertical gardening and 2-3 feet (60-90cm) if plants are left to sprawl.
• Rotate where you plant Armenian cucumbers. Do not plant in the same area as you previously planted other melons, squash, or cucumbers.
• Corn is a good companion plant for Armenian cucumbers, and they may climb the corn as they would a trellis.

---

3. Caring for Armenian Cucumbers

While they do need consistent moisture, Armenian cucumbers are more drought-tolerant than common cucumber varieties. This makes them a good option for gardeners in areas with water restrictions or those looking for low-water-use plants.

Mulch the soil around Armenian cucumbers.

Armenian cucumbers have both male and female flowers. Male flowers will appear first and continue to bloom; about two weeks later, the first female flowers will appear. Both types of flowers are yellow. Male flowers will bloom and be visited by a pollinator to pass the pollen onto the female flower, then wither and fall off. Female flowers are bulbous, will bloom, and, if pollinated, develop into a fruit.

Blooms are numerous, and hand-pollination is usually not necessary. Encourage bees by planting oregano, basil, zinnias, and other flowering plants nearby.

---

4. Prune Armenian cucumbers and remove suckers as needed

Cut off any yellowing or diseased leaves, as they can drain energy from the plant.

Pruning suckers is not necessary but may be helpful to control the size and spread of the vine and improve air circulation and sunlight exposure. Be careful to only prune side shoots and not the main vine itself. Here’s how:

• Locate the main vine of your Armenian cucumber plant. This is the thickest and longest vine that grows directly from the base of the plant.
• Find a side shoot growing from the base of a leaf stem.
• Follow it down to where it connects with the main vine.
• Cut the side shoot about 1/4 inch above the main vine. If a female blossom is present on the side shoot, cut just after that fruit, ensuring not to damage the main vine.

Prune some side shoots, but don’t remove all of them. Leaving a few shoots will help the plant maintain its structure and balance and also ensures there are plenty of male blossoms. I usually leave most of the side shoots in place. Pruning is an art, so don’t be too hard on yourself if you make mistakes.

---

5. Harvesting tips for Armenian cucumbers

Armenian cucumbers are prolific producers, and if you keep harvesting them regularly, they will continue to produce throughout the season. This ensures you have a steady supply of fresh “cucumbers” all summer long.

• Some varieties can grow to 3 feet (90cm) long quickly. They are best picked between 12-18″ (30-45cm) long and 2 ½” (2.5cm) in diameter.
• Pick fruit early in the day and immerse it in a bowl filled with ice water to lengthen storage time.
• Cut off fruit from the vine, as pulling can damage the vine.
• Leaving fruit on the vine too long signals the plant to slow or stop production.
• Larger fruit has larger, more noticeable seeds.
• Larger fruit tastes more like a watermelon rind and less like a cucumber.

---

6. Enjoy the harvest of Armenian cucumbers from your garden

Armenian cucumbers are known for their mild, slightly sweet flavor and lack of bitterness often found in other cucumber varieties. This makes them a great addition to a variety of dishes without overpowering the other flavors.

I love cutting up Armenian cucumbers and eating them fresh. They are so good! You’ll have enough, however, that you’ll need additional ways to use them. My favorite ways include eating them raw in salads and sandwiches and pickling them. They maintain their crunch when cooked and can be a delightful addition to stir-fries or grilled vegetable dishes.

• No need to peel; the skin on young Armenian cucumbers is thin and edible.
• Use as you would cucumbers in salad, dips, sushi, or sandwiches.
• Try grilling them in vegetable kabobs or puréeing in smoothies.
• Excellent with pork, fish, mint, oregano, dill, yogurt, and feta cheese.

---

---

---

If you enjoyed this post about how to grow Armenian cucumbers, please share it:

---

Visiting a great nursery is inspirational. Colors and textures draw you in, and wish-list plants beckon to you from the benches and displays. You may even encounter a plant that you can’t live without, even though you’ve never seen it or heard about it before. Join Danielle and Carol as they stroll the aisles of a favorite Rhode Island nursery and chat about their favorite finds.

Expert guest: Sarah Partyka is the owner of The Farmer’s Daughter, a garden center in South Kingstown, Rhode Island.

Danielle’s Plants

‘Copper Harbor’ juniper (Juniperus horizontalis ‘Copper Harbor’)

Sensational!™ lavender (Lavandula x intermedia ‘Tesseract’, Zones 5-9)

‘Nickel Silver’ dyckia (Dyckia ‘Nickel Silver’, Zones 8-11)

‘Shiloh Splash’ river birch (Betula nigra ‘Shiloh Splash’, Zones 4-9)

Carol’s Plants

‘Venusta’ queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta’, Zones 3-8)

Agave-leaf sea holly (Eryngium agavifolium, Zones 6-9)

‘Eastern Star’ white wood aster (Eurybia divaricata ‘Eastern Star’, Zones 3-8)

‘Purpleleaf Bailey Select’ American hazelnut (Corylus americana ‘Purpleleaf Bailey Select’, Zones 4-9)

Expert’s Plants

‘Purple Knight’ calico plant (Alternanthera dentata ‘Purple Knight’, annual)

Cardoon (Cynara cardunculus*, Zones 7–10)

‘Limelight’ licorice plant (Helichrysum petiolare ‘Limelight’, Zones 9–11)

‘Kudos Mandarin’ agastache (Agastache ‘Kudos Mandarin’, Zones 5–9)

‘Xanthos’ cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus ‘Xanthos’, annual)

‘Profusion Double Deep Salmon’ zinnia (Zinnia ‘Profusion Double Deep Salmon’, annual)

Balloon plant (Gomphocarpus physocarpus, Zones 8–10)

‘Black and Blue’ anise-scented sage (Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’, Zones 7–10)

‘Kudos Yellow’ agastache (Agastache ‘Kudos Yellow’, Zones 5–9)

‘Aromatto’ basil (Ocimum basilicum ‘Aromatto’, annual)

‘Emerald Falls’ dichondra (Dichondra repens ‘Emerald Falls’, Zones 7–11)

Expert’s plants:

Container 1

1. ‘Purple Knight’ calico plant
2. Cardoon
3. ‘Limelight’ licorice plant
4. ‘Kudos Mandarin’ Agastache
5. ‘Xanthos’ cosmos
6. ‘Profusion Double Deep Salmon’ zinnia

Container 2

1. Balloon plant
2. ‘Black and Blue’ anise-scented sage
3. ‘Kudos Yellow’ agastache
4. ‘Aromatto’ basil
5. ‘Emerald Falls’ dichondra

 

To see more of Sarah Partyka’s beautiful pollinator-friendly containers, check out her article from Fine Gardening issue 206: https://www.finegardening.com/project-guides/container-gardening/6-beautiful-pollinator-container-garden-designs .

Say thank you to those bumbling, fuzzy, pollen enthusiasts we love so much…bees! By planting flowers for bees, we can help them get enough food and energy to keep on pollinating our plants. Create a bee garden using these flowers, projects, and tips you can easily do at home.

Do you have fruit trees that used to do well but are no longer producing much or any fruit? Perhaps your vegetable garden isn’t as lush as it once was, with fewer vegetables or smaller, misshapen ones. Before you dig out the fertilizer or give up altogether, call in the air force: bees.

Attracting bees to the garden is like hiring a workforce of full-time gardeners to help produce the strongest, most beautiful plants and healthiest vegetables.

These hardworking insects, along with other pollinators, are the smartest thing you can cultivate in your garden because they will do much of the work for you. Follow these simple steps to create your own bee-friendly garden and plant some flowers for the bees.

This post will cover…

Expert Tips for Creating a Bee Garden

• Look for native plants at your local garden centre and see which flowers the bees visit. Ask someone who works there what local flowers bees like best, or choose a bee wildflower seed mix.
• Plant a wide range of flowers in different colours, shapes, smells, and blooming times. Bees need a food source when they awaken in the spring until they hibernate for the winter.
• Beyond flowers, also create a bee bath which is a place for bees to get a drink of water safely.
• Also include bee houses for the solitary bees, a safe spot to nest and breed.
• Avoid the use of pesticides and herbicides in your garden, as these can affect beneficial insects like bees as much as the annoying ones.

Why We Should Attract Bees to the Garden

Gardeners all know bees as pollinators, but very few of us realize how much we rely on them to get some of our basic fruits and vegetables. Out of the 100 major food crops in the USA, bees pollinate 70 of them.

We rely on bees to get strawberries, blueberries, apples, grapes, peaches, pumpkins, cucumbers, broccoli, onions, carrots, cashews, almonds, and so much more. Through pollination, bees carry the pollen grains from male to female plants to fertilize the plant and develop seeds. Without the bees, we wouldn’t have seeds for any of these plants!

Planting flowers for bees allows us to help the little insects flying around the neighbourhood and their mission to pollinate our plants. To really get ahead on how to help the bees, you can start by identifying the types of bees that visit your garden and their specific needs.

What Bee-Friendly Plants Should I Grow?

The first step is to choose flowers that attract bees and plant them in a sunny spot. There are so many varieties out there of flowering plants that bees love, and they differ between climates.

One way you can figure out what plants to choose for your garden is to visit a nursery and look for the bees. Observe which plants they are buzzing around at the garden center and bring a bunch of them home.

And here is another tip: it’s better to plant a number of the same plants than many different varieties, as bees are attracted to larger expanses of one kind of flower.

To quickly create an instant bee garden in your yard, purchase an annual bee wildflower seed mix and spread them around your garden. The seeds in bee mixes are chosen because bees love them and bloom in succession. Scatter the seeds in the perennial garden or in a few pots to set around the garden, and they will keep the bees happy all summer long.

The Best Flowers for Bees

These are a few tried and true flowers that bees love that can be easily found and planted across most zones. Make sure to select bee-friendly plants for every season so that bees can access food from early spring to late fall.

As general rules, bees like bright colours and sweet-smelling flowers. These flowers are doing their best to attract pollinators to their petals with their showiness.

Bees also like flowers where they can gather as much at once. Think about how much easier it is from a bee’s perspective to visit a lilac bush rather than hop around individual flowers.

Annual Flowers for Bees

• Aster
• Calendula
• Celosia
• Clover
• Cleome
• Millet
• Poppy
• Salvia
• Sunflower
• Sweet alyssum
• Zinnia

Perennials that Attract Bees

Bee-Friendly Herbs

Make a Bee Bath

Creating a bee-friendly garden means more than just planting bee-friendly plants. You certainly want to attract them with gorgeous blooms, but you will want to give them a place to drink while they are in your garden. Making a simple bee water feeder that looks nice in the garden is easy.

Add rocks to a shallow dish or bowl so that they sit above clean water to give the bees a place to perch. If you have a problem with aphids, the water will attract beneficial insects, so place the dish near the plant with the aphid problem to help them wash down the feast!

See this post for detailed instructions on how to make a bee bath.

Make a Bee House

To attract beneficial wild bees to your garden, give them a place to nest and breed. A bug hotel is a place for solitary insects like solitary bees, solitary wasps, ladybugs, lacewings, and more to overwinter.

You won’t have to worry about it becoming a hornets’ nest, though, as the hornets, yellow jackets, and wasps that are usually a nuisance in the summer build their own hives somewhere near your house (here is a wasp trap that might help in that case).

A bug hotel is a place for wild, solitary, beneficial insects. You can make your own by filling a wood box with rolls of paper or hollow reeds, or buy one that looks as beautiful as it is functional. Read more about bug hotels here.

Also, be sure to do practices like no mow may and leave the leaves to help bees who shelter in your garden in the natural spaces.

Don’t Sting Me!

Bees often get a bad reputation for being confused with wasps. Bees are gentle creatures that only sting to defend themselves from harm, such as being grabbed or trampled. Wasps can be a bit more aggressive, but unless you provoke them, they won’t start attacking you.

Bees and wasps don’t get angry; they simply defend themselves. Show them respect and care, and you should not get stung.

I saw this honeybee swarm at UBC Farm, and it was quite a sight to see! And hear. The buzzing was like music. And while this many bees might be frightening to some, these little workers are gentle creatures just looking for a new home.

Bees swarm when they outgrow the hive or there is something wrong with it. Usually, a thriving hive will get quite large and create a new queen. The new queen bee leaves the colony with a large group of worker bees.

If you see a swarm like this in your garden, get in touch with your local beekeeping association. They will have the resources to help find these bees a home.

Be Careful Where You Dig

If you have ever woken up a sleepy bumblebee in your garden, you know that many of them bury themselves in the ground for the winter. Believe it or not, most bees are ground bees—over 70% of all species of bees nest underground in conical-shaped mounds in the soil.

In the spring, they wake up, groggily fly around, and start pollinating the early fruit crops. So, if you want fruit in the summer, then roll out the red carpet for the ground bees (and watch where you dig).

Avoid Pesticides, Protect the Bees

It goes without saying that an organic garden is better for bees. Using pesticides in your garden will only continue to hurt the bee population and kill the pollinators that will help you grow healthy, strong plants. If you would like some pesticide-free pest control ideas, try this natural pest control spray or opt for companion planting.

Frequently Asked Questions About Bee Gardens

Read Even More About Beneficial Insects

“Someone once said that’‘gardening is straddling creativity and labor,’ ” says Janet Mavec of Janet Mavec Jewelry. “I think that’s so accurate. I love the juxtaposition of those two things.”

For more than 25 years, Janet and her husband Wayne Nordberg have been doing just that, digging and planting to coax a magical garden into being at Bird Haven Farm in western New Jersey. Set among rolling hills and woodlands, the 100-acre farm is a bucolic dream, replete with a picturesque old barn, spring-fed pond, century-old orchard, and a stone house (once the home of Harriet Stratemeyer Adams, the author of the beloved Nancy Drew mysteries).

In 2002 the couple worked with the great Spanish landscape designer Fernando Caruncho to design the garden’s master plan, including an elegant courtyard with a reflecting pool that is central to many of the couple’s social gatherings. Garden designer Lisa Stamm created the monastery garden, prolific vegetable garden, and perennial border, where Mavec spends much of her time plotting and planting. “Every year, I change up what’s in each bed, add compost, and rotate flowers and vegetable crops,” she says.

“When we originally put the garden in, it was all about editing,” recalls Mavec. “Now years later, there’s still editing, but we focus more on maintaining things in a healthy way.” Inspired after attending a lecture on gardening for birds, she recently added a border of berries and native shrubs such as bottlebrush buckeye and clethra. “I feel like I can tell what kind of winter it’s going to be by how quickly the berries get eaten,” she says.  

These days Mavec is a little more laissez-faire in the garden than in the early days, preferring to spend time on things like color combinations, rather than cajole a fussy plant into bloom. “If it doesn’t come back, we don’t need it,” she says. “I like to garden with colors I would never wear, or even have in my house,” she says with a laugh. “I don’t want my sofa to be barbie pink, for example, but I planted poppies in that color and I love them.” Her palette runs the gamut—from seductive mauvy irises to bright orange marigolds. “I’m not a plant snob,” she says, “I look forward to planting pansies every spring.” Mavec also holds a party every year to celebrate her exuberant festive marigolds, one of the first plants she grew as a young child. “I adore color and love that you can have so much of it in the garden.” She takes us on a tour. 

Photography by Janet Mavec.

Today we’re in Lee’s garden, in the Mohawk Valley of New York State. We visited earlier this spring, and Lee took us on an ant’s-eye view of the developing sprouts and shoots of earliest spring (Lee’s Garden Through the Eyes of an Ant), and now we’re checking in with how things are developing as the season progresses.

The sprouts are now maturing plants getting ready to flower, and the tulips and early bloomers have done their job for another season. I captured some tulips and other early bloomers as they brought in the new flowering season.

I’m seeing lots of buds on lots of plants. I think this will be a banner year, based on the profound spring growth I’m witnessing. A touch of real early fertilizer gave them a nice push, I do believe. Time will tell, but all of the plant structures are very strong, and buds are early. The anticipation! As always, I wish all growers a great growing and blooming season and wish peace to all from the Mohawk Valley in central New York State.

Star magnolia (Magnolia stellata, Zones 4–8) is one of the earliest-blooming magnolias.

This incredible double yellow tulip (Tulipa hybrid, Zones 3–8) has so many layers of petals it almost looks like a rose.

A double tulip in the softest, most romantic shade of pink

A yellow tulip painted with bold stripes of red

Now that is PINK! It almost glows.

Tulips with green in the petals are sometimes called viridiflora types. This might be the very popular variety ‘Spring Green’.

A Chinese garden guardian called a foo dog

And here’s a slightly less traditional garden resident! But this sow looks quite at home among the bright oriental poppies (Papaver orientale, Zones 3–8) and Siberian irises (Iris siberica, Zones 3–8).

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

As the blooms gradually turn completely cream-colored, they will inspire oohs and ahhs from late summer up to the first frost.

Properly classified as Ipomoea lobata, Spanish flag is also known by two former scientific names, Mina lobata and Quamoclit lobata, and by a colorful array of other nicknames including exotic love vine.

Its most recent Latin name, Ipomoea lobata, places Spanish flag in the morning glory family.

This moniker is particularly distasteful to many gardeners because, while indeed being botanically related to Mexican morning glory (I. tricolor), common morning glory (I. purpurea), and others in the Ipomoea genus, firecracker vine’s flowers are not funnel-shaped and look unlike morning glory flowers.

Many gardeners simply call this plant “Mina lobata.”

Let’s learn more about this glamorous dazzler and see if it might suit your next privacy fence, border, or even a large container for the patio. Here’s what to expect:

What Is Spanish Flag Vine?

Native to Mexico, I. lobata was originally named in honor of Spanish explorer Francisco Xavier Mina in 1824 and introduced to Europe that same year.

Some 60 years later, in 1887, it made its way to the US via a German seed house and has enjoyed varying degrees of popularity here ever since.

Cultivated as an annual in some climates, in others Spanish flag is characterized as an invasive plant – much like its cousin, the morning glory – due to its speedy and aggressive growth habit.

It typically flowers from late summer through autumn, making it an attractive addition to colorful fall landscapes.

In the southern US, this vine will overwinter quite well, whereas northerners will have to plant afresh each summer.

The flowers emerge a bright red to deep orange color. As they grow larger, they fade to pink, pale orange or yellow, and finally cream.

As they age and change colors, the blossoms remain vertically arranged on one side of the stem as new red blooms are produced at the top of the floral stem.

This results in a stunning cascade of colors that exhibit the flag-like appearance for which the plant is known.

Though just one flower on a stem generally becomes fertile at a time, thrusting out pistil and stamens, the flowers’ nectar attracts hummingbirds and bees.

Not content with run-of-the-mill green foliage? This morning glory family member produces bronze-purple, deeply lobed leaves that mature to a deep green.

These leaves are shed as the season progresses, so you might want to plant low-growing screen plants in front of the base of the vines.

This polychromatic delight also proudly sprouts showy purple stems.

Propagation

You’re not likely to find Spanish flag starts at the local nursery, so starting them from seed is usually the best bet.

If you want an advantage, start seeds indoors. Sow them in a premoistened seed-starting mix about a quarter-inch deep at least six weeks before transplanting outside. You’ll wait to do that until after all danger of frost has passed in your area.

Ordinary seed-starting mix works fine, or you could use potting soil, but don’t use ordinary garden soil or you may encourage disease or poor drainage.

The coats on firecracker vine seeds are tough – another reminder that they are members of the morning glory family. To soften the shells and hasten germination, soak the seeds in plain water for 24 hours before sowing.

Give each seed its own one- or two-inch cell or space them two inches apart in a shallow tray. Keep the seeds moist and the temperature between 65 and 70°F until they sprout. This can take five to 20 days.

Once the seedlings push through the growing mix, immediately move them to a sunny window or place the tray beneath a grow light.

They’ll be ready to plant out a week or two after the average last frost date, once the soil is 55°F and the air is at least 65°F. Wait until they have at least two sets of true leaves, and harden them off gradually to adjust to the outside light and temperature.

To transplant, dig a hole the same size as the cells of the current container, place the main stem at the same depth, and backfill with more growing mix. Water in thoroughly and get ready for speedy growth to commence!

You can also direct sow the soaked seeds outdoors when freezing temperatures are a winter memory, being careful to space them at least a foot apart if you don’t plan to thin the seedlings.

How to Grow

When choosing a spot to grow a Spanish flag, make sure it will have enough room to spread a foot or two and enough support to reach its mature height of six to 20 feet.

The vines also prefer full sun, and will flower sooner with six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. They will also tolerate a bit of shade, though you shouldn’t expect as many flowers.

If you plan to enjoy the pollinators and hummingbirds that mob this flowering vine, be sure to plant it on a site at least 10 yards from anywhere that you or a neighbor is using insecticides or herbicides.

Heat is no problem for Spanish flag, but it does appreciate rich, moist, well-drained soil. It can thrive in a range of pH levels from 6.0 to 8.0, which includes soils that are somewhat acidic to neutral to somewhat alkaline.

Firecracker vine also makes an attractive container plant if you give it something to climb on and keep the soil moist.

The pot must hold at least seven gallons, and make sure it’s made of a water-retentive material and that it has drainage holes in the bottom.

Read our guide to learn more about selecting the best material for planters and containers.

Once the plants are in the ground, they’re easy to care for.

You will want to supplement their water during dry spells, using a watering can or the hose to provide an inch or so of water at the soil surface, not sprinkling it above the leaves.

Provide your vines with a high-nitrogen fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season, and switch to a high-phosphorous mixture before the plant blooms.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun.
• Provide a trellis or fence at least 10 feet tall.
• Fertilize with a high-phosphorous fertilizer when the plants form buds.
• To protect pollinators drawn to Spanish flag, don’t use insecticides or herbicides nearby.

Pruning and Maintenance

Like most annual vines, I. lobata doesn’t require pruning to grow tall and spread about a foot or so.

You may need to train the runners up your selected supports, but only if they start sprawling along the ground.

It’s pretty easy. Once they’re six to eight inches long, gently entwine the runners with the lowest parts of the supports. Or tie them to the bottom juncture of the trellis or fence with a loose bow of biodegradable twine.

Usually, though, they’ll find the supports on their own, seemingly growing a foot or more overnight.

Beyond that, mid- to late season care involves fertilizing when the plants form buds and enjoying the flowers as they fly their colors, later becoming cream-colored flags waving in the wind.

At season’s end, clear the plant debris to discourage insect pests from overwintering in the dead vines. Only compost the remains if you’re cool with a seed or two sprouting in the composted soil next season.

Spanish flag doesn’t usually have trouble with disease, particularly when planted in well-draining soil with ample space between vines.

But you may encounter white blister, rust, or fungal leaf spots. You can use a fungicide to combat these diseases.

Best Uses

This is a showy bloomer with beautiful colors that flowers in late summer through fall, just as many other annuals are fading out.

Due to its height and need for support, the best use for the showy firecracker vine is at the back of a border or as a focal point growing against a wall near the patio, sidewalk, or porch.

It’s also invaluable as a quick-growing privacy screen.

And if you are willing to water a couple of times per week in the heat, find a large container, and place it near a suitably tall and strong support. Spanish flag can also create an impressive display of color in a container.

Finally, when choosing vines to suit your garden or landscape, remember this ornamental vine’s appeal to pollinators.

Plant it somewhere our flying and buzzing friends can access the blooms for nectar that’s also near a source of shelter and water.

Freezing rhubarb is a great way to preserve this tangy and versatile vegetable for future use. It’s a simple process that can help you enjoy the flavor even when it’s out of season.

I always loved my grandma’s rhubarb pies and crisps, and now that I freeze it, I am able to enjoy these nostalgic recipes whenever the cravings arise.

In this article, I lay out everything you need to know about how to freeze rhubarb, with or without blanching, so you can enjoy it anytime of the year that you wish.

You can use it in any recipe that calls for fresh, for example to make fillings for baking, jams, or dessert toppings.

Preparing Rhubarb For Freezing

For the best results, choose rhubarb that’s as fresh as possible. The stalks should be firm with vibrant color.

Right out of the garden is best, but you can buy it from the grocery store or farmer’s market as well.

Rinse it under cool water to remove any dirt or debris, gently scrubbing the stalks with a vegetable brush if needed.

Cut the leaves and the root ends off and discard them. You can keep the stalks whole if you’re short on time, or cut them into 1-2 inch pieces, which is the easiest size to reuse later on.

Should You Blanch Rhubarb Before Freezing?

You don’t need to blanch rhubarb before freezing it, but it does help to retain the color and texture better.

Blanching takes a little extra time, and whether you choose to do it or not depends on how you plan to use your frozen rhubarb.

For example, if you plan to cook it down to use it for making jam or dessert fillings, then blanching is not necessary.

How To Blanch Rhubarb To Freeze

To blanch your rhubarb before freezing, fill a large cooking pot with water and bring it to a rolling boil. While that’s heating, fill a large bowl with ice water.

Carefully drop the rhubarb pieces into the boiling water and flash-cook them for 1-2 minutes.

Then remove them with a slotted spoon and immediately transfer them into the ice water to stop the cooking process.

Related Post: How To Can Rhubarb At Home

Methods For Freezing Rhubarb

There are a few ways you can freeze rhubarb, and I’ll lay out the options for you below. The method you choose depends on your time, availability, and how you plan to use it later on.

Freezing Rhubarb Whole Or In Pieces

The ideal way to freeze rhubarb is in 1-2 inch pieces, which makes it very quick and convenient to cook with or use in your recipes.

However, if you are super short on time, you can leave the stalks whole and simply place them into a gallon-sized freezer bag.

Flash Freezing Rhubarb

Flash freezing is an optional step, but it’s very helpful in preventing your rhubarb pieces from sticking together in clumps.

To flash freeze simply spread the cut up pieces evenly on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

Place it in the freezer for about an hour, or until the pieces are firm to the touch, then fill your zipper baggies.

Can I Freeze Rhubarb Leaves As Well?

No, you cannot freeze rhubarb leaves. It’s a well-known fact that the leaves contain a poisonous substance, so you should never eat or freeze them. Always be sure to remove the leaves and throw them out, and only freeze the stalks.

Tools & Supplies Needed

You don’t need any special equipment, and you should have all you need already on hand in your kitchen. Gather everything together ahead of time to speed up the process.

How To Store Frozen Rhubarb

Storing frozen rhubarb is simple. After you have filled your zip top bags, just lay them flat and stack them on top of each other in the freezer.

If you don’t want to use baggies, you can put it in any type of freezer-safe airtight container that you prefer.

How Long Does Rhubarb Last In The Freezer?

As long as you store it properly, rhubarb lasts up to one year in the freezer. You may be able to extend its shelf life by using a food vacuum sealer.

FAQs

Below I’ve answered some of the most common questions about how to freeze rhubarb.

What is the best way to freeze fresh rhubarb?

The best way to freeze rhubarb is to wash it, cut it into 1-2 inch pieces, flash freeze it, and then store it in freezer bags.

Can you freeze whole stalks of rhubarb?

Yes, you can freeze whole stalks of rhubarb as long as you remove the leaves first. Although it is much easier to fit them into baggies if you cut the stalks up into smaller pieces.

Can you freeze fresh rhubarb raw?

Yes, you can freeze fresh rhubarb raw. Balancing is optional, but it can help to preserve the color and texture better.

Should you peel rhubarb before freezing?

There is no need to peel rhubarb before freezing. Simply wash it, remove and discard the leaves, and cut the stalks into pieces first.

Can I freeze rhubarb without cooking it?

Yes, you can freeze rhubarb without cooking it. Although taking a few extra minutes to blanch it will help to retain the texture and color better.

Should I cut rhubarb before freezing?

Whether you cut rhubarb before freezing it or not is up to you. Cutting it up first will make it more convenient to use later on, but you can certainly keep the stalks whole if you are strapped for time (always remove and toss out the leaves first though).

Should you wash rhubarb before freezing it?

You should always wash your rhubarb before freezing it to remove any soil or other debris. Usually giving it a quick rinse will do the trick, but you can use a veggie brush if there’s any caked on dirt.

Is frozen rhubarb as good as fresh?

Frozen rhubarb is just as good as fresh. You can use it in any recipe that calls for fresh without any problems.

If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More About Food Preservation

Share your tips for freezing rhubarb in the comments section below.

Step By Step Instructions

Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a delightful ornamental shrub with large, showy flowers that thrives in hot, humid climates.

But they also make excellent container plants, so those of us in temperate areas can enjoy them too!

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Pollinators ranging from bees to hummingbirds are drawn to the large flowers that come in richly saturated shades of apricot, gold, mauve, peach, pink, purple, scarlet, and white – with more orange-based colors than their hardy cousin, the rose mallow (H. moscheutos).

Easily cultivated in pots and planters, they prefer to have their roots in close quarters, so containers don’t have to be huge.

They also respond well to annual pruning to maintain a well-behaved size and shape.

This makes the seasonal move inside and back outdoors convenient and manageable – no need for a forklift to move them into the orangery!

Steamy colors, evergreen foliage, and easy care… is your garden ready for some potted beauty? Then let’s delve into the ins and outs of how to grow tropical hibiscus in containers!

Here’s what’s ahead:

Tropical Hibiscus Primer

Tropical hibiscus is native to Asia and some islands of the South Pacific.

A frost-tender perennial evergreen also known as Chinese, fancy, or Hawaiian hibiscus, it’s a perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, where the plants flower abundantly through the growing season.

A member of the mallow family, Malvaceae, H. rosa-sinensis produces large, luscious blooms measuring four to six inches in an array of thrilling colors, with over 10,000 known hybrids!

The large, funnel or trumpet-shaped flowers are edible and available in single or double forms that last only a day.

But the shrubs are so loaded with buds, it’s like they’re in perpetual bloom over the long flowering season, which starts in spring and lasts to late fall in frost-free regions.

These evergreens do best in temperatures ranging from 60 to 90°F and can grow from two to 30 feet tall. For container growth, dwarf or compact cultivars are the best option.

Container Selection

Hibiscus does well in any type of planter, including those made of materials such as ceramic, concrete, plastic, resin, terra cotta, or wood.

But if you need to move pots indoors or into a sheltered location to overwinter, lightweight materials like fiberglass, hypertufa, or resin makes good sense.

And you can always put heavier pots on a wheeled plant caddy to make moving them easier.

This round wooden caddy offers heavy-duty support for up to 65 pounds and is available at Wayfair.

Wood Caddy Plant Stand

If you prefer containers made of heavier materials, a simple pot lifter harness is invaluable.

It takes two people to use, but these offer a brilliant solution for moving large or heavy items – ours are used in the garden each spring and fall, and they’re aces for shifting boulders or hauling driftwood!

Shoulder Dolly Pot Lifter

The Shoulder Dolly pot lifter with an 800-pound capacity can be found on Amazon.

Choose a pot that is one or two sizes larger than the root ball.

For example, if your plant came in a #1 nursery pot, which holds close to one gallon of soil, transplant into a container that holds up to two or even three gallons of soil, but don’t go larger than that.

H. rosa-sinensis has wide, shallow roots. When planted in a container that’s too large, this species can’t absorb all of the available moisture, which can result in root rot.

For healthy plants, it’s best to repot every two or three years, increasing the pot size gradually.

Whatever material you choose, ensure your container has drainage holes to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged.

I like to add a two-inch layer of loose materials like broken pottery or pebbles over the drainage holes to ensure the roots don’t sit in wet soil.

Cultivars to Select

With hundreds of cultivars out there, there are plenty of options suitable for container growth. Here are a few suggestions to start out with:

Double Peach

All bets are off as ‘Double Peach’ doubles down on charm and petals, featuring sumptuous, ruffled flowers of peachy orange with deep green, shiny leaves.

Flowering all summer, ‘Double Peach’ has an upright habit and grows up to six feet tall with a spread of up to five feet.

‘Double Peach’

A striking specimen in containers and planters or massed in groups or rows as a barrier or screen, it’s hardy in Zones 9 to 10.

Nursery plants are available from Walmart.

Red Dragon

No slaying is required to enjoy the brilliant, fiery red blooms of Red Dragon (‘Mongon’)!

A profuse summer and fall bloomer, the double-petal, ruffled flowers add dramatic appeal to bushy, upright branches thick with glossy green leaves.

Growing six to eight feet tall with a spread of three to four feet, Red Dragon makes a beautiful addition to patio planters and containers throughout the garden.

Red Dragon

Prune lightly in spring to encourage branching, improve flowering, and keep the size and shape manageable. Hardy in Zones 10 to 11.

Nursery containers are available at Nature Hills.

Starlette

Roll out the red carpet and get your cameras ready for Starlette (‘14014’) – with a lead role in the Hollywood series, the gorgeous coral/fuchsia pink flowers steal the show!

Starlette

Bred for abundant flowers all summer, the multi-branched plants grow up to five feet tall with a spread of one to four feet – the perfect planter choice for courtyards, decks, patios, and poolside gardens. It’s hardy in Zones 10 to 11.

Containers of Starlette are available at Nature Hills Nursery.

Tree

For a striking accent, these tropical hibiscus trees have been sculpted into a standard topiary form that’s a natural in containers, planters, and urns.

Loaded with flower buds through summer and fall, the single-petal flowers in red or pink add bright, bold colors that look terrific as a potted specimen or clustered into larger groupings.

Red Tropical Hibiscus Tree

The trees reach a mature height of six to eight feet with a two- to three-foot spread. Hardy in Zones 9 to 11.

Nursery trees measuring three to four feet are available at Fast Growing Trees in red and pink.

Yellow Bird

Your fancy will take flight on the wings of ‘Yellow Bird,’ a charming dwarf variety featuring extra large, buttercup yellow flowers with an eye-popping magenta heart.

These compact plants grow two to three feet tall, spread up to two feet, and feature flowers measuring up to eight inches across!

An ideal container plant as an anchor for mixed plantings or roosting alone as an accent or specimen, it’s hardy in Zones 9 to 10.

Soil and Growing Needs

Tropical hibiscus does best in a full to partial sun location and needs well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8.

Plant out in spring after overnight temperatures stay above 55°F.

Fill pots with a friable, well-draining soil blend that’s been amended with one or two parts compost or well-aged manure to two or three parts soil. (A “part” is just a measurement unit for the ingredients – I use a shovelful to measure out one part.)

Mix in one part moisture-retentive materials such as coconut coir, peat moss, perlite, or vermiculite.

Add in one part grit to improve drainage if needed, using landscape sand, pea gravel, or stone chips.

Water lightly and mix the soil at the same time for a moist planting medium.

Finish off the soil blend by mixing in two to three tablespoons of bone meal for fast, healthy root growth.

Create a planting hole for the root ball and set the plant in place with the crown at soil level or just above it.

Firm in place and water slowly but thoroughly until water comes from the drainage hole.

Although these plants are sun-lovers, it’s helpful to harden off newly planted shrubs in a partially shady spot for 10 to 14 days before moving them into full sun.

Once hardened off, place containers in a site that receives full sunlight and provide afternoon shade in hot climates as needed – typically in locales where temperatures climb above 90°F. 

To deal with pests like aphids and diseases like gray mold, our guide on how to grow and care for tropical hibiscus has details and solutions.

Fertilizing and Watering

Feed on a monthly basis with a water-soluble fertilizer or apply slow-release, granular pellets in early spring and again in midsummer.

Hibiscus does best with a feed that features high levels of potassium, medium amounts of nitrogen, and low levels of phosphorus – look for NPK formulas with a low middle number (P), and the last number (K) slightly higher than the first (N).

Espoma Palm-Tone

Try this 4-1-5 NPK fertilizer from Espoma that’s designed for hibiscus and palms – it’s available in four-pound bags from Walmart.

During the growing season, water regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not wet. Check your pots every couple of days – daily in hot weather – and water when the top inch of soil dries out.

The addition of a layer of summer mulch can be helpful to keep roots cool and retain moisture.

Use up to four inches of materials such as bark mulch, sawdust from untreated lumber, straw, or small pebbles to mulch over the root zone.

Outdoor Winter Care

H. rosa-sinensis thrives in hot, humid climates with plenty of sun and a temperature range of 60 to 90°F, or in Zones 9 to 11.

In the cool end of that range, in Zone 9, you can move potted plants into a protected location like a shed or garage should a cold snap threaten – they can’t tolerate temperatures below 45°F.

If moving them isn’t an option, add a thick, four-inch layer of mulch using materials such as compost, leaf mold, or straw to help protect surface roots.

Wrap the plant with a couple of layers of frost blanket material to protect leaves and stems from freezing temperatures.

And you can shield deeper roots by insulating the container with an old blanket, bubble wrap, or pine boughs.

Withhold fertilizers from outdoor plants over the winter and reduce watering where rainfall is ample. In drier regions, maintain slightly moist soil.

In areas with heavy winter rainfall, remove catchment saucers from under containers to avoid subjecting the roots to standing water.

If needed, lift containers onto bricks or pot toes to ensure water doesn’t puddle under the pots.

Indoor Winter Care

A couple weeks before nighttime temperatures drop down to 60°F, move containers into a shady spot for two weeks to prepare them for the move indoors.

Moving plants indoors usually results in some leaf drop or yellowing leaves, but they recover quickly and bounce back in a few weeks.

But before bringing your pots indoors, prune lightly if needed and check for pests.

If pests are found, spray the foliage with a strong stream of water from the hose or spray with a gentle homemade insecticide.

To make your own insecticidal soap, fill a spray bottle with lukewarm water mixed with a few drops of mild dish soap and a few drops of vegetable oil.

Shake well then spritz the infested leaves, ensuring you spray the undersides.

After the foliage dries, place your container in a warm spot with bright, direct sunlight and away from drafts.

For indoor watering, fertilizing, and care details, refer to our guide on how to overwinter tropical hibiscus indoors.

After Winter

In spring, once nighttime temperatures stay above 55°F, move containers back outdoors.

Place them in a lightly shaded spot for 10 days to two weeks to harden them off from their indoor climate.

Prune lightly, using clean, sharp garden shears to reduce the overall size by up to one-third, cutting stems on an angle just above a leaf node. At the same time, remove any crossed, dead, or damaged branches.

After hardening off, move to their summer location and resume a regular feeding and watering routine.

Nonstop Showy Displays

Potted frost-tender hibiscuses thrive with a little attention, delivering a long season of lush foliage and showy tropical flowers.

For a nonstop container display, keep the soil lightly moist, fertilize regularly, and provide shade from hot afternoon sun – then reap the rewards of well-tended plants!

And if you’re outside of their hardiness range, be sure to bring them indoors to overwinter.

Do you folks have a favorite variety of potted tropical hibiscus? Tell us about it in the comments section below.

And for more information about growing other types of hibiscus, check out these articles next:

I met my first “chaste tree” at a Master Gardener class over a decade ago.

It’s proper name is Vitex agnus-castus, and there was a nice specimen growing in the demonstration gardens at the Marion County Florida Agricultural Extension Offices where we took our classes.

As part of our Master Gardener training, we took cuttings from this small tree and propagated them. The resulting rooted cuttings then went into our own gardens. I accidentally killed mine by moving it when it wasn’t fully rooted, but I liked the tree so much I went and bought another one from Taylor Gardens Nursery, back when they were still open.

After the day we visited that tree at the extension and started cuttings, I did more research on the species, discovering that it’s been used as a hormone balancer for women going through menopause, as well as a pleasant herbal tea. It’s also reported to lower libido, so if you’re considering taking Holy Orders, you might want to plant one of these. Chaste tree leaf tea has a nice, earthy, herbal flavor.

In the garden, chaste tree is a lovely ornamental that draws in pollinators. The foliage is green and silver, and the blooms are a lovely lavender.

It’s a good addition to a Grocery Row Garden even if you don’t use it medicinally, as it has a rich, earthy, herbal aroma, and sprays of purple flowers that attract butterflies and moths, as well as feeding bees and hummingbirds.

We have a limited number of chaste trees in the nursery right now, and will bring them to our sale this Saturday.

One of these lovely ladies is going to be planted in my Grocery Row Gardens this week, too. And I want to put another one in the food forest.

We have one in the herb gardens already, and simply love the way they look, smell, and invite in the good insects.

We love plants that have multiple uses, and this one is care-free and more beautiful than most.

THIS SATURDAY:

Come meet us and get some “GOOD” plants!

We will have our nursery booth set up on Saturday, JUNE 17, at the Atmore Flea Market, from 8AM to 1PM.

ADDRESS: 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL

Some of the plants for sale include: Pineapple guava, Chaste tree, Echinacea, Edible cannas, Sweet Shrub, Jerusalem artichoke, Comfrey, Tobacco, Bamboo (giant yellow timber type) “Robert Young”, Longevity spinach, Tropical milkweed, Chocolate mint, Stevia, Banana (Dwarf Cavendish), Daisies, Elderberries …and a few more rare tidbits

We will also have books, and would love to talk gardening when you stop by.

SPECIAL DISCOUNT OFFER!

We like to recycle pots and reuse them, so we’ll give you a $.50 credit on any blank, useable, one-gallon or larger pot you bring to our booth. Bring what you have and trade ’em in for plants!

Hope to see you there.

Share this post!

Wouldn’t be great if you didn’t have to use pesticides to keep bugs from eating your plants? How awesome would it be if you could just plant plants to take care of some of the most common pests? Guess what? You can!

Trap crops are a type of companion planting. But instead of increasing yield or improving flavor, these companions take one for the team and attract pests away from your prized vegetables. Trap crops are part of an environmentally sensitive approach called Integrated Pest Management (IPM), the basic premise of which is to start with the least toxic option first when managing pests. It doesn’t get any more nontoxic than planting a plant. And some of them happen to be quite beautiful, too!

Here are some of the top trap crops:

Nasturtiums

These edible flowers and leaves are aphid heaven. Aphids prefer nasturtiums and will choose them over your tomatoes. Whiteflies love them too. Nasturtiums come in mounding and trailing varieties. I use them as a ground cover under my tomatoes. They keep the whiteflies and aphids off my tomatoes and provide a form of mulch to conserve water and keep the soil cool. Bonus: Bumblebees, who are great tomato pollinators, love them, too!

Marigolds

A favorite and well-known trap crop, marigolds attract thrips. They also attract mites that feed on thrips. Thrips attack lettuces, spinach, and cabbages. Their roots are also known to repel nematodes. Bonus: You can use the petals to dye fabrics.

Blue Hubbard Squash

The cucurbit family is a large and varied family that includes winter and summer squash. A home gardener favorite, zucchini, is included in the family. Zucchini is also a favorite of the squash vine borer, which can decimate a zucchini plant. By planting a blue hubbard two weeks before you plant your zucchini, the squash vine borer moth will lay its eggs on the blue hubbard and not the zucchini. Once the blue hubbard has the vine borers, you can remove it and the threat to the zucchini.

Calendula (Pot Marigold)

Calendulas are sunny happy flowers that attract aphids, thrips, and whiteflies. They can repel beetles from asparagus and hornworms from tomatoes. Additionally, they attract hoverflies and ladybugs that eat the bad bugs. It has been used in teas and alternative medicine and makes a beautiful cut flower. Plant enough for your tomatoes—and for a vase-ful for your kitchen table.

Sunflowers

Stink bugs and leaf footed bugs love sunflowers. They also love tomatoes, but not as much as they love sunflowers. You can pick off or spray the stink bugs/leaf footed bugs with the least toxic option from the sunflowers. In the fall, the seed heads become food for birds.

See also:

(Visited 1 times, 1 visits today)

We’re in Norwalk, Ohio, visiting with Jodie Kerby today.

My husband and I have lived in our house for over 20 years, and this rose bush has always been here. I just made my new flower beds around it. I had an old lady stop by the house in 2000 and tell me that her dad planted these roses when she was a child. Knowing some of the history makes me love this rose bush even more. I hope you enjoy her as much as I do.

Though roses have a reputation for being fussy, many old roses are tough survivors that can persist and even thrive in gardens for years.

This old rose is certainly thriving, making a beautiful mass of flowers.

Many old roses bloom just once in the beginning of summer but make up for that by flowering heavily.

Look at these gorgeous flowers. In classic old-rose fashion, they are packed to the brim with layer upon layer of petals.

It’s wonderful to think about how many years, and for how many people, this beautiful rose has been bringing joy with its beauty.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Greatness shouldn’t be rushed, especially when it’s found in the form of a delicious apple.

So it’s definitely a major bummer when a Malus tree’s fruit hits the ground before it’s supposed to. A tragedy, even.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

For those less invested, a shrug and a “C’est la vie” may be all that’s expressed.

But for a grower who has labored and toiled in the hopes of an ample yield, a premature dropping of pomes can feel like a slap to the face.

If their livelihood depends on it, make that a slap from Russian slap-fighting legend Vasily “Dumpling” Kamotsky.

Diagnosing the cause of this problem isn’t always simple. There are many different factors at play, and more than one issue could occur simultaneously. So, how do you figure it out?

I’m obviously a bit biased, but I think this guide is a decent place to start.

Armed with a handful of potential causes, you’ll be able to draw conclusions for yourself – or at least have some theories ready to share with any local expert that you go to for additional help.

Here’s what we’ll be going over:

What Is Premature Apple Drop?

Essentially, premature apple drop is when the fruits fall prior to their intended harvest period, before they’re fully ripe.

As they mature, fruits produce ethylene, a gaseous plant hormone that helps to stimulate the ripening process.

With this hormone comes an increase in softness, sugar content, ripened colors, and aromas, while also reducing acidity and pre-ripe hues.

Ethylene also stimulates the production of cellulase and polygalacturonase enzymes, which break down the cell walls in pome stems, allowing for their easy detachment from branches.

Ethylene is produced after harvest, too. Harvested pomes continue to soften and darken, their shelf-life is reduced, and the odds of infection via pathogens increase. 

All of this occurs when things go according to plan, of course.

But in the case of premature apple drop, various factors can cause the fruits to leave their branches before their beloved qualities can fully come to fruition, pun intended.

This leaves you with less-than-desirable yields, regardless of what your intent for these yields may be.

If you primarily grow apples for your own fresh eating or for use in recipes, prematurely fallen yields won’t be as large, soft, aesthetically-colored, or tasty as mature and fully ripe ones would be.

For those who wish to sell their yields, whether commercially or at the amateur level, these reduced qualities leave vendors with less marketable produce overall.

So yeah, premature apple drop is no bueno. Let’s discuss some potential causes of it, shall we?

Causes of Premature Apple Drop

Premature apple drop can be a multifaceted issue… so here are a bunch of factors to consider in your diagnosis.

A heads up, though: more than one of these issues can simultaneously cause the problem, with each additional factor increasing drop severity. So you may have more than one metaphorical dragon to slay.

First and foremost, a stressed tree is more likely to release its fruits than a non-stressed one. Therefore, it pays to cultivate your Malus specimens properly.

If you need a refresher, feel free to have a look at our apple tree growing guide.

1. Apple Variety

All else kept equal, some varieties of apple are more naturally inclined than others to drop their fruit prematurely.

For example, ‘Honeycrisp,’ ‘McIntosh,’ and ‘Red Delicious’ varieties are less prone to premature drop, while ‘Gala,’ ‘Fuji,’ and ‘Jonathan’ are more prone.

Whether you’re evaluating the specimens in your current orchard or choosing varieties for a future one, you’ll need to weigh the pros and cons of different cultivars and do your research.

Is a variety’s taste worth its propensity towards premature drop? It’s a question that only you can answer, and your answer may dictate your choice of cultivar.

2. Excess Fruit Load

Technically, not all fruit drop is bad. In some cases, it’s a natural part of the ripening process, also known as “June drop.”

After pollination, the flowers give way to fruits, usually quite a lot of them. In most cases, the tree sets more than it can metabolically sustain long-term. The plant simply cannot provide enough energy to support each pome’s development to reach its potential full size.

As a result, the plant ends up promptly shedding some fruitlets. This usually begins in June – hence the name “June drop” – but depending on location and variety, it can start as early as May or as late as July.

Sometimes, you may have to thin additional fruits after the June drop ends, to encourage ample fruit size and quality.

Thin out fruits until there’s one pome spaced every four to nine inches along branches, allowing more distance for larger fruits and less distance for moderately-sized ones. Use hand pruners, long scissors, or do so by hand.

Sometimes this phenomenon can be excessive or it may start earlier than usual, which is often indicative of poor pollination or periods of cloudy weather that have reduced photosynthesis.

Overall, maintaining proper cultivation is the best preventative measure to avoid extreme June drop. In the specific case of reduced photosynthesis, you could try to add some more sun to the equation by pruning the canopy to increase light penetration.

3. Heavy Pruning

Don’t go too crazy with the pruning, though. That could cause some premature apple drop of its own.

When you prune away a ton of leaves, there goes the foliage for adequate photosynthesis, which forces the tree to jettison some excess pomes that it won’t be able to provide the necessary carbohydrates for.

So, how much pruning is too much? Well, if the leaf-to-fruit ratio is below 20:1, you may run into some issues.

But don’t feel like you have to count every leaf and pome! An approximation is fine.

4. Herbicide Damage

The indirect application of herbicides to an apple tree can act as a physiological stressor for the plant, which can lead to premature apple drop.

I mean, if I was holding a bag of Granny Smiths in line at the grocery store and someone sprayed a bunch of glyphosate on me, I’d definitely drop them before reaching the register.

When using herbicide sprays, it’s essential to control where your herbicide ends up. Don’t directly spray non-weeds with herbicides.

And be mindful of excessive herbicide usage on weeds, as it can easily drift via wind to undesirable places.

5. Hot and Freezing Temperatures

Early warm temperatures or extreme heat can stimulate ethylene production, which reduces growth during this stressful time.

But with this reduced growth comes increased ripening, which can trigger fruit drop prematurely.

Even warm nights can trigger significant cellular respiration in fruits, potentially lowering carb levels enough to warrant their early ejection.

Freezing temperatures, especially right before flowering buds are set, can also stress a tree enough to interfere with development.

This may force an early release of fruits later in the season.

There’s not much you can do about the temperature, but it’s worth keeping this risk factor in mind!

Definitely a good reminder to double-check your local USDA Hardiness Zones when planning out your orchard, that’s for sure.

If you’re located at the edge of what’s acceptable, seek out heat- or frost-tolerant varieties.

6. Low Water

Often going hand in hand with high temperatures, a water deficiency is yet another stressor that can cause an apple tree to let go of its fruits early.

Ensuring enough water is available for a plant in times of drought stress is twofold: irrigation and moisture retention are factors here.

You’ve gotta actually add enough water, and make sure that it doesn’t evaporate too quickly via a nice layer of mulch around the root zone.

7. Pests and Diseases

Along with feeding on your pomes, which can cause them to fall – not to mention leaving infested fruits looking grossly inedible – pests may feed from and damage the tree’s leaves.

This reduces photosynthesis to levels below what’s necessary for powering a pome’s growth and development.

Diseases can cause similar issues, as they can be major health stressors that can force the tree to focus on survival at the expense of reproduction.

Therefore, it’s essential to try and prevent pests and diseases in Malus trees, and learn how to manage them if they strike.

For some pointers, check out our guides on apple pests (coming soon!) and apple diseases!

8. Poor Pollination

If June drop is occurring earlier than usual, poor pollination may be the culprit.

Most Malus varieties can’t pollinate themselves without the help of another variety that flowers at a similar time.

To increase the pollination rates of your trees, you’ll need at least one variety in the same flowering group as the ones growing in your orchard… for the most part.

There are select varieties that actually self-pollinate, while “triploid” cultivars actually need two other types of trees nearby to bear fruit, believe it or not.

In a pinch, you can even use non-Malus species of pome fruit trees to pollinate your apple specimens in some cases, such as pears.

Regardless of what you decide to grow for cross-pollination, you should space your specimens no more than 50 feet away from each other. Read more about fruit tree spacing in our guide.

9. Severe Wind

In the event of harsh winds, sometimes your pomes can be knocked from the branches before they’re supposed to fall.

Or said winds can cause branches to sway, which ends up throwing the attached fruits off. Either way, the winds are to blame.

Proper placement of your trees can help mitigate wind damage. A tall line of burlap or a wall of densely-packed conifers such as arborvitae can be wonderful windbreaks.

Man-made structures such as barns, sheds, or even your home can shield your plants from wind as well.

Since they’re particularly at risk, juvenile specimens could often do with some staking.

Draping with wind covers such as tarps or frost cloths is better suited for older trees, as the covers may act as wind sails for the weaker-rooted younger ones that could potentially rip them out of the ground.

Additionally, a bit of pruning – without being excessive – can reduce the canopy’s surface area so high winds have less to batter around.

10. Soil Nutrition

“An apple a day keeps the doctor away,” as they say.

But these fruits can’t become nutritional powerhouses for us without receiving proper nourishment in their infancy themselves. And for plants, nutrients are primarily acquired from the soil.

When the soil’s nutritional content isn’t what it’s supposed to be, an apple tree may release many of its fruits prior to harvest.

Insufficient organic matter and low levels of magnesium are two of the most well-known offenders in Malus trees, while nutritional excesses, such as high potassium and high boron levels, can lead to premature drop as well.

An intelligently-designed and well-structured fertilization program will ensure that your orchard is a well-tuned fruit-producing machine.

11. Soil Texture

Even soil texture, i.e. the soil’s composition of sand, silt, and clay, can make a difference in ripening times.

The fruits of trees planted in coarsely-textured, sandy soils tend to ripen and potentially drop earlier than those of specimens planted in heavier, more clayey soils.

Early doesn’t always mean prematurely early, but for a tree that’s prone to early drop or dealing with some of the above factors already, the soil’s texture can make a significant difference.

Amending the soil around large roots is no easy feat, so it’s best to make the desired modifications to your orchard’s soil well before your trees are planted.

Put a Stop to the Drop

Nothing throws a wrench in your apple-eating plans quite like a lack of apples. Now that you know what can make them drop prematurely, the fates of your future fruits are more secure.

This guide is just a starting point, though. Once you have some ideas of what might be going on for you, don’t be afraid to reach out to fellow green thumbs for aid.

Orchard owners, extension agents, fellow backyard growers – all of them can be fantastic sources of wisdom!

Questions, insights, personal successes or failures to share? The comments section below awaits your input.

And for a handful additional guides to growing your own apples, here’s what we have in store:

Listen, I adore roses, but even I can admit that categorizing these plants has gotten a little bit, shall we say, confusing.

I mean, a “shrub” is a group classification, but all roses are botanically shrubs as well. Then there are miniature and miniflora types.

They’re both small, and a breeder who hybridizes a tiny plant can choose which category they want to stick their new plant in.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

That means the same 12-inch-tall plant that a breeder just created could be described as a mini, miniflora, or a shrub, depending on what the breeder picks.

You can see why there’s some confusion surrounding this.

It helps to have labels to understand exactly what it is we are talking about when we discuss roses.

If you’re out shopping for a particular plant and you hope to find something that is about 16 inches tall with full-sized blossoms, you’re going to want to ask for a miniflora rather than a miniature plant when you talk to the salesperson.

So, what’s the deal with miniflora and miniature roses? What sets them apart? What similarities do they share?

We’re going to explain everything in just a minute. Up ahead, here’s what we’ll discuss to make the difference between these two types of petite roses crystal clear:

Rose classifications around the globe are determined by the American Rose Society (ARS).

They oversee classifications and registrations, so when we say a certain name or term pertaining to roses is classified, we mean the ARS has done so.

But of course, not everyone gardens by the book. Sometimes we use slang or common terms that aren’t officially recognized by the ARS.

Someone might call a tiny rose “miniature” even if it isn’t technically defined as one by this professional organization.

That’s why the ARS has set some guidelines and keeps track of all the registered plant classifications. Both can be climbers or shrubs in growth habit.

Whichever type you decide to grow, these have the same requirements as standard plants. I know it’s tempting, especially since they are sold in some grocery stores as houseplants, but these should never be kept indoors full-time, even the teeny-tiny ones.

What Is a Miniature Rose?

A miniature is just what it sounds like: a plant that has been bred to stay smaller than the average shrub.

These shrubs generally stay under 30 inches tall, and the leaves and blossoms are proportionally small as well. These are the original tiny roses and they have been cultivated for centuries.

Miniatures can come in climbing or shrub types, and there are moss, teas, and China roses among these. China is the species parent from which all minis descended.

The one commonality here is that they’re much smaller overall, with petite flowers and foliage. The blossoms are generally less full than those found on larger plants.

Their compact nature makes them popular container plants.

Sequoia Nurseries founder Ralph Moore is considered the granddaddy of miniatures and he is sometimes called the “David Austin of miniature roses.”

He has bred over 300 different hybrids, and won dozens of awards from both the ARS and rose societies across the United States and abroad.

There are 16 miniatures that have been inducted into the ARS Hall of Fame to date, and six of them are his.

You can find plants in this category in public and private gardens across the globe. A miniature called ‘Overnight Scentsation’ has even been to space.

What Is a Miniflora?

Minifloras were first bred and released commercially in 1973. They are a hybrid cross of miniature and standard types.

According to the ARS, a miniflora is a plant that falls between floribunda and miniature in size, with leaf and blossom structures falling between the two in size as well.

Some of the original ones were bred by respected hybridizers Dee Bennett of California and Herb Zipper.

In 1982, Star Roses released a Myland series called Sunblazes under the label “mini-flora.”

These plants are still around and are popular today throughout Europe though less common in the US. They reach about 18 inches high with large blossoms.

Minifloras were trademarked by the well-known Maryland breeder J. Benjamin Williams, and the label was written as “mini-flora.”

Williams generously donated the trademark to the American Rose Society in 1999. In 2009, the styling was changed to be written as one word, “miniflora.”

Minifloras usually have flowers that are every bit as large as those found on many standard-sized shrubs. Under the right conditions, the blossoms grow up to three inches in diameter.

The plants themselves can sometimes reach up to five feet tall and may still be considered minifloras if the breeder registers them as such.

They come in all of the colors that you may see in standard roses, and every flower size from single to very full.

Where Do Patio and Micromini Types Fit In?

You might hear the term “patio” used to refer to small roses.

Patio isn’t an official classification, but rather, a general grouping of plants that are about the right size for growing in pots on patios.

These might include minifloras as well as miniatures, and small polyanthas, floribundas, or hybrid teas.

Similarly, micromini isn’t an official classification. These are plants that are extremely small, usually under 12 inches tall, with proportionally tiny blossoms.

You’ll often see these sold as houseplants in grocery stores and nurseries. But remember, roses don’t make good houseplants.

Varieties to Select

It’s an impossible task to try to narrow down the best roses in any category.

Some people are willing to put up with a delicate plant in exchange for stunning flowers. Others wouldn’t dream of planting a shrub that needs regular deadheading to bloom.

That said, the following have been proven to combine beauty, adaptability, and disease resistance.

All of the ones mentioned below are technically classified as minis or minifloras except for one. We’ll go into more detail:

Acadia

Bred by L. Pernille and Mogens Nyegaard Olesen of Fredensborg, Denmark, ‘Acadia’ has beautiful full, apricot and pink blend blossoms with a pungent wild rose fragrance.

This miniflora tops out at a mere three feet, though it often stays much shorter.

Grow this member of the beloved National Parks series in Zones 6 to 9.

Be My Baby

She’s petite, but her impact isn’t. The 28-inch shrub is covered in deep pink, very double blossoms in large clusters that return in flushes throughout the growing season.

It’s classified as a miniature.

‘Be My Baby’

Grab a live plant in a #2 container at Nature Hills Nursery for growing in Zones 5 to 10.

Drift

Plants in the Drift® series stay under about 18 inches tall and spread a bit wider.

They are technically classified by the ARS as shrub types, which is sort of a catch-all category that many growers choose.

Drifts are often referred to as ground covers, which isn’t an official classification.

See? I told you classification can be confusing! But we’re figuring it out, right?

Because these are hybrids between a mini and a floribunda, they could be called minifloras. But the breeder did not specifically choose to define them this way.

At any rate, if you’re looking for a miniflora, they fit the bill, regardless of their official classification. What’s in a name, anyway?

Peach Drift®, aka ‘Meijocos’ is my favorite of the Drift family. It grows about 18 inches tall and twice as wide in Zones 4 to 11 and has peachy-pink double blossoms with orange centers.

Peach Drift®

Let this one fill up a spot in your garden by purchasing a plant at Fast Growing Trees in a two- or three-gallon container.

Want something a little more classic? Red Drift® is the same size as Peach Drift® but with masses of deep red blossoms.

Red Drift®

It’s hardy in Zones 5 to 10, and you can find three-gallon live plants at Perfect Plants Nursery.

Joy

If there’s an award out there, you can bet ‘Joy’ has won it. This is the top-rated commercially available rose classified by the ARS as a miniature on the market.

A hybrid of ‘Silverhill’ and ‘Kristin,’ it features multi-hued pink and white, fully double blossoms.

One of the things that makes ‘Joy’ so exceptional is that the flowers hold for an extremely long time.

In fact, they will practically dry on the bush in the perfect shape rather than fully opening and falling. You can keep them for weeks in a refrigerator and almost as long in a vase on the counter.

‘Joy’ typically stays around three feet in height, but it can reach four feet tall in ideal conditions. It’s also exceptionally disease resistant.

Overnight Scentsation

Behold the flower that went into space. A cross between the floribunda ‘Taxi’ and the miniature ‘Lavender Jade,’ NASA used this shrub to explore the way that fragrance compounds are impacted outside of the Earth’s atmosphere.

If you lament the lack of scent with other minis, this one will be a joy to have around. It is extremely fragrant with a floral scent.

This cultivar was originally classified as a mini because the miniflora class didn’t exist yet, but it has since been reclassified as a miniflora by the ARS.

A Big Performance in a Tiny Package

Regardless of what you call them, these tiny roses pack a lot into a small package. You get all the joy of rose growing in a much smaller footprint.

What’s your favorite petite option? Did we include it here, or did we miss the one that’s closest to your heart? Let us know in the comments.

You probably know that there’s a whole lot more to rose growing than we’ve covered here.

If you want to go down the rabbit hole on your way to becoming a rosarian, you might be interested in a few of our other guides, starting with:

Have you ever wondered where that new and exciting plant you just saw at the garden center came from? Or perhaps why certain plants are more expensive than others? In this exclusive video, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes tour of the Monrovia regional nursery in Granby, Connecticut, to see how plants go from a single seedling to a robust perennial or shrub. We’ll explore areas of a nursery that few gardeners ever see, from the soil-mixing facility, to production fields, and even to the coveted propagation houses. Monrovia grows an extensive, carefully selected collection of woody plants and herbaceous perennials for every gardener’s need, and some of these plants can take up to 10 years before they arrive at independent garden centers.

A surprising aspect of this detailed operation is the high level of sustainable practices that the nursery employs. From efficient irrigation systems, to a 90% capture of run-off water, to the use of integrated pest management, you’ll see how Monrovia plants are grown with planet-saving tactics in mind.

In this video you’ll also get a special preview of several brand-new varieties coming into local garden centers soon. These include the gorgeous Seaside Serenade^® Glacier Bay Hydrangea and tough-as-nails Grace N’ Grit^® White Shrub Rose. Horticulturist Mark Hixson, who is Monrovia’s East region customer service coach,  is our tour guide through the nursery. Most of us like to know where our food comes from, if it’s possible to get that information—so why not take that practice and apply it to the plants that fill our gardens? With this all-access pass, you’ll finally understand where your blue hydrangea originated from and who was responsible for creating its beauty.

 

Exciting new plants mentioned in this video

Blue Enchantress Hydrangea

Seaside Serenade Glacier Bay Hydrangea

Grace N’ Grit Red Shrub Rose

Grace N’ Grit Pink Shrub Rose

Grace N’ Grit White Shrub Rose

Grace N’ Grit Yellow Shrub Rose

Grace N’ Grit Pink Bicolor Shrub Rose

Nitty-Gritty Peach Rose

Nitty-Gritty White Rose

Nitty-Gritty Red Rose

Nitty-Gritty Pink Rose

Nitty-Gritty Yellow Rose

 

For more about Monrovia nursery and their high-quality plants, visit monrovia.com.