In our latest video, we take a look at the small yard of an old house in Hannibal, Missouri and make a guess at the potential productivity:
This is a topic that has fascinated me for years. I used to own a small house in Hollywood, FL back in 2003. This is how it looks as of the Google Maps image from 2021:
I am reasonably certain I planted at least one of those coconut palms!
In the six months I lived there before moving to Tennessee because of a better job offer, I planted about ten fruit trees. Unfortunately, all of them were cut down by subsequent owners, including, very sadly, a lychee and a tamarind, both of which would be highly productive mature trees by now.
You can really do a lot with a small space. Though we own some acreage now, not all of it is being used for growing food. In fact, most of it is not! We have a few acres of unused lawn, plus lots of wooded space that is just filled with oaks and popcorn trees and less-useful species. This will be remedied over the years, of course, since we’ve only lived here for a year.
Our current garden is about 1/4 acre. This is the yield thus far in 2023:
1,139lbs of produce, plus 1,897 eggs.
This is really exciting. Having decent soil makes a difference, plus we’ve really started to get the Grocery Row Gardening system working. It will be interesting to see if we hit 2,000lbs this year. Ezekiel’s watermelons have been half the yields! Once the cassava and yams come in I think we’ll be up at least another 300lbs. Also, the sweet potatoes. And there are at least 30 pumpkins waiting to be harvested.
But I digress.
Suffice it to say that you CAN grow a lot in a small space, particularly if you pay attention to soil fertility and focus on the crops that grow well in your area.
And look… I’m just a piker at this. 1,100lbs is nothing. We have all kinds of space we don’t use in every garden we’ve ever built.
If you want to see insane productivity in an urban space, check out The Urban Homestead. Or read Paradise Lot by Eric Toensmeier and Johnathan Bates.
Use what little you have, pray over it and dedicate the space to The Lord, then roll up your sleeves and get to work. You can do it.
Has someone told you to put eggshells in the garden? Eggshells are promoted as a natural garden amendment, compost extraordinaire, and the ultimate cure for blossom end rot. But how much of that is really true? Today, I’m breaking down another common gardening myth and why eggshells don’t deserve the excitement they get.
Ever since the dawn of the internet, the rumours surrounding miracle gardening cures and hacks that you have to try have only grown. From adding Epsom salts to sprinkling coffee grounds, many of these neat gardening tricks aren’t all they’re cracked up to be.
And I hate to be the one to break it to you, but that includes eggshells. Most people encourage you to toss eggshells into the garden as fertilizer and as the ultimate cure for blossom end rot. While eggshells do have a place in the garden, their benefits are greatly exaggerated.
Before we can understand why eggshells in the garden may not be the miracle cure it’s advertised as we need to talk about calcium in the garden. Let’s get into it.
This post will cover…
The Importance of Calcium
First, you have primary nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. These are represented as N-P-K and what you’re looking out for when buying fertilizer.
Then, you have secondary nutrients, including sulphur, magnesium, and you guessed it, calcium. Calcium is important for root and cell development and for ripening fruit and seed.
Young tissue in roots will take in the calcium and bring it up to the rest of the plant. These young roots have more permeable membranes than older root tissues. Once the plant cells in the roots mature, they no longer absorb calcium.
So, your young plants are soaking up as much calcium as possible!
Calcium is also great for soil structure. It helps with flocculation, where clay particles separate from other particles and clump together. Calcium does an excellent job of keeping these clay particles together. Flocculation is helpful in preventing runoff and erosion.
Young seedlings intake a lot of calcium thanks to their root tissue being more permeable.
Is Your Soil Lacking Calcium?
Calcium deficiency often shows itself through blossom end rot, where not enough calcium gets transferred to the fruit. Or you can see it under the soil where there’s lots of stunted root growth from lack of calcium.
BUT, that being said, calcium is very very rarely an issue. Like very rare.
Yes, blossom end rot is usually caused by a lack of calcium. But that’s not because there’s no calcium in the soil. The plant’s inability to access the calcium is the problem. When you water consistently, you allow the plant to absorb the calcium easily and get it to the fruit.
So when you water inconsistently, the plant has difficulty taking up the necessary calcium. Especially when the plant is young. So steady, consistent watering is your best bet against blossom end rot and consistent nutrient uptake.
The only time your soil may lack calcium is if you have a low pH of 4.5 or lower. At this point, many other nutrients and minerals are also lacking, and the plant will perform poorly overall. A quick soil pH test can help you determine if your soil is too acidic.
Overall, most soil is already at a neutral-ish pH level and full of all the secondary nutrients it needs naturally.
Garden lime is ground limestone, a slow-release amendment for treating acidic soil and adding calcium carbonate to soil. It’s the most effective way to add calcium to soil.
Eggshells in the Garden. Do They Really Work?
Okay, now that we understand calcium in the garden and why it’s not really a top concern, let’s talk about eggshells in the garden.
Eggshells are comprised of about 40% of calcium, making them a high source of calcium. People like to add them to the garden as a source of calcium, trying to help their fruiting plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, and zucchini as much as possible.
For them to be a helpful source of calcium, they must be broken down. The process for the calcium in the eggshells to reach a point where the plant can absorb it takes a long time. It may be an entire growing season or longer before finely ground eggshells are helping.
Other soil amendments like lime or wood ash will work faster for providing calcium.
That being said, eggshells certainly aren’t bad for the garden. They will eventually break down and will be a source of calcium, but the benefits of eggshells and the fear of calcium deficiencies are greatly inflated.
My standard serving of worm food usually includes a nice layer of eggshells.
How to Use Eggshells in the Garden…AKA What Really Works
So would it surprise you to learn that there is a way I use eggshells in the garden? I like to include crushed eggshells in my worm bin. In my experience, my worms love to eat eggshells.
In my vermicomposting bin, I routinely add in eggshells, raw vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, flowers, and green leaves from the garden. I never add more than 20% of one material, however, to give them a balanced diet, if you will.
I feed my worms about once a week, adding a nice array of scraps to one corner at a time. Within a month, that food will be broken down.
So by no means am I adding lots of eggshells to my vermicomposting bin, but I definitely add them regularly.
Worms will also break down larger eggshell pieces in your garden if they don’t all break down in your regular compost bin.
Frequently Asked Questions About Eggshells in the Garden
Are there benefits to eggshells in the garden?
Once broken down, eggshells will add calcium to the soil. Calcium aids in cell and root development and helps to ripen fruit. It’s considered a secondary nutrient and is essential for the success of a plant.
However, calcium is naturally present in almost all soil and calcium deficiency is rarely an issue. So while eggshells can help aid calcium and won’t harm the garden, they’re not as beneficial as many advertise.
Which plants don’t like eggshells?
Calcium can help make acidic soil more alkaline. Therefore, plants that like acidic soil, like hydrangeas, blueberries, azaleas, geraniums, and violets, may not like the addition of eggshells.
How do I compost eggshells?
Compost will typically break down before the eggshells will. What you can do is grind up the eggshells to put in the compost bin using a food processor or a mortar and pestle. But since that’s a lot of work, you can also just put them in the compost bin broken up by hand as best as you can. The larger organisms in the garden will eventually help to break down the eggshells.
Do eggshells prevent slugs?
People often say that eggshells, as well as other pokey materials, will help to stop soft-body pests like slugs and snails. The idea is that you sprinkle them over the soil and the slugs won’t like climbing over them.
In my experience, I haven’t noticed this to work. I find that other methods, like growing tender seedlings in raised beds, to be a better alternative.
Sure, you can compost them, but why do that when you could eat this often wasted leafy vegetable that’s packed with vitamin A and calcium?
Using them in the kitchen is a great way to reduce food waste, and it’s just as easy as cooking with Swiss chard.
They can be steamed, stir-fried with a bit of butter and garlic, or added to soups and stews. Young leaves can make a tasty and colorful addition to salads.
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I’ll take you through the process of harvesting this leafy goodness, from the garden to the kitchen.
Why Harvest Beet Greens
Have you ever noticed that beet tops and Swiss chard leaves look an awful lot alike?
That’s because, amazingly enough, these two plants are actually the same species, Beta vulgaris, which means that there are a lot fewer than six degrees of separation between these two garden veggies – they are just two of several B. vulgaris subspecies.
Depending on the variety of beet you are growing, there may be more or less foliage available for harvest.
They also have similar uses in the kitchen, you can use the greens from the beet tops in the same recipes that call for Swiss chard.
Getting back to the root of the issue, while you impatiently wait all summer long to bring in a hefty harvest of your root crop, now you can tide yourself over by nibbling on the leaves from these root vegetables.
Harvesting Beet Greens
While the roots are growing, the tops can be harvested throughout the growing season, as well as when you bring in your mature root crop.
While Thinning
After you’ve sown your seeds, the seedlings for these garden veggies will come up very thickly, even if you don’t sow heavily. That’s because each seed in your seed packet is actually a calyx or pod, containing several seeds within it.
Young seedlings should always be thinned to give developing roots the space they need to grow – and this is an excellent time to start harvesting the leafy tops.
To thin your seedlings, gently pull the smallest plants from the soil, leaving the largest, strongest seedlings in the ground.
Extension horticulturist Richard Jauron and organizational advancement officer Willy Klein at the Iowa State University Extension and Outreach recommend thinning seedlings when they are 3-4 inches tall, and leaving remaining plants 3-4 inches apart.
As you thin your patch, collect the thinned seedlings in a bowl to carry into the kitchen when you’re done.
If you’re doing this in the hot sun, you might try adding some cold water to your bowl to keep your mini-harvest cool.
You can use both the leaves from these thinned plants as well as the underdeveloped roots for cooking.
From a Maturing Crop
You can use the tops from your plants throughout the growing season, between thinning and harvesting your root crop.
Just make sure not to pick too many, since the plant needs the energy produced by its leaves to keep growing and for the roots to mature.
For the best taste, beet greens should be cut fresh, when you are ready to use them.
Using a sharp knife, cut one or or two of the outer leaves from each plant, slicing through the stem an inch or two above the soil level.
Always make sure that the inner leaves are left intact.
As more leaves grow, you can continue to harvest the greens in this way.
When harvest time comes in fall, this is the time for a leafy bumper crop.
Along with your root crop, the leaves from these mature plants can also be used in the kitchen. These older leaves may be a bit tougher than the tender shoots you picked earlier in the season.
Before you harvest your root crop, trimming the tops off before you start pulling them up will keep the leaves cleaner.
Sort through the greens and separate out any that are dried out or damaged, keeping the best looking leaves for use in the kitchen.
Meet Your Greens
Reduce food waste and enjoy delicious meals made with this often overlooked source of fresh green vegetables.
It is very easy to interchange one leafy vegetable for another, so you can use beet leaves in most recipes that call for spinach, kale, and most definitely Swiss chard, its closest relative.
How are you planning to cook your beet tops? Make us drool – let us know your culinary plans in the comments.
Ready to grow more leafy green vegetables in your garden? Check out these other articles next:
Ornamental grasses are increasingly being used in our landscapes as an alternative to shrubs.
In any region of the country, you can find native grasses that do quite well, and add textural variety and a soft, flowing aspect to the garden.
These plants are particularly attractive when grown in groups. Examples include any of the many Miscanthus varieties, blue fescue (Festuca glauca), and Mexican feather grass (Nassella tenuissima).
A few are evergreen in the southernmost parts of the United States.
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But most are deciduous, rewarding gardeners year after year with fresh blades in solid or variegated green, red, and coppery colors, as well as prolific and attractive plumes and seed heads.
And while largely maintenance-free, many of these plants do benefit from an annual haircut. Let’s learn more about how to trim them up for maximum growth and beauty.
Enjoy Them Throughout Winter
While you likely won’t do any irreparable harm if you trim ornamentals back in the fall, we recommend you wait until late winter or early spring before you bring out the shears.
Many of these plants – especially those with spent plumes and attractive seed heads – offer alluring winter interest, particularly if snow or ice graces their foliage.
Keeping the leaves around also protects the crown of the plant throughout the winter, but you do want to prune the old growth before the new growth begins.
Leaving the dead material on too long can impair the crown’s warming and delay new growth by as long as three weeks.
If you delay the haircut until after new shoots have appeared, you’ll want to trim the old material carefully.
If you cut the new blades, they’ll have a raggedy, unnatural appearance all season.
Here in Austin, we prune our big grasses back in late January. Floridians can start chopping in early January, while our northern friends may have to wait until later in spring.
How Low Should You Go?
Start with a very sharp pair of hedge clippers, such as these from Fiskars, available via Amazon.
The 10-inch blades on these clippers will help you to get through any clump of grass quickly. Be sure to sharpen your blades frequently, as the grass will dull them.
Some gardeners use a hedge trimmer or even a chainsaw on older and tougher grass clumps.
Next, put on a long-sleeved shirt as the blades of grass can be quite sharp!
Tightly tie twine, rope, or a bungee cord around the clump, about two feet up from ground level, and cut below the tie.
This makes it easier to access the clump as you cut it, and it also provides you with a neat, tidy bundle to carry away and dispose of.
How short you cut these plants depends on whether they are cool-season or warm-season grasses.
While the cool-season varieties grow best when temperatures are 60 to 70°F, the warm-season grasses like it hot, and prefer temperatures in the 80 to 95°F range.
Warm-season grasses that are taller than three feet should be cut back to four to six inches from ground level. Shorter mature plants can be cut back to about three inches.
Prune cool-season grasses back by two-thirds.
The Greens Get a Rake
Some ornamentals, such as Fakahatchee grass (Tripsacum dactyloides), are evergreen in some parts of the country.
For these types, just rake through them a couple times a season with gloved hands to draw out any dead material.
If an evergreen grass grows to be too large, you can cut it back every couple of years. And of course, clip out the occasional dead blade as you encounter it.
Low Maintenance and Attractive
Elegant and flowy, ornamental grasses make a visually appealing addition to modern landscapes.
Cut them back as winter wanes and you’ll be rewarded with fresh and bright blades in springtime, and attractive plumes of seed heads in late summer and fall.
Do you have any of these types of plants in your landscape? When do you cut them back? Tell us about it in the comments section below.
There is something truly intoxicating about a bountiful rose garden.
While it might seem like a costly endeavor to fill your yard with roses, there is actually an easy, and practically free, way to take one bush and turn it into many.
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Read on to learn how to collect and save the seeds you need to grow new ones!
Each season, rose bushes form buds which open into fragrant blooms that are pollinated by butterflies, bees, and wasps.
Once the flowers begin to die back, you will notice green ovaries begin to swell at the base of the blooms.
These fleshy pods, known as rose hips, will slowly ripen to red, orange, or yellow. The seeds are contained within these pods.
It is worth noting that there are many hybridized cultivars out there, and not all plants create hips or produce viable offspring.
You may not know before you try whether the particular cultivar you have will produce usable seed, but since collecting them is so easy, I say there isn’t much harm in giving it a shot.
One reason that some blooms may not form hips is because flowers are removed before pollination can happen. It is important to leave old blooms to fall off on their own to give the hips a chance to develop.
At the same time, hip formation requires energy, and if too many are allowed to form on each plant, it could become overburdened, possibly resulting in underdeveloped seeds.
Therefore, deadheading some but not all of the blooms can create fewer but stronger hips that are more likely to produce viable seeds. You can read all about how to do this in our guide.
Cut no more than two thirds of the flowers off the plant, and also remove any brown or shriveled pods.
Harvest the Ripe Hips
Collect the well ripened hips in late summer or fall, a few months after they begin to form, and once they have fully turned from green to red, orange, or yellow and have softened up a bit.
Some gardeners suggest picking them right after the first light frost of fall, but before a hard frost has a chance to send the plant into dormancy. Either way, just be sure they are completely ripe.
Harvesting is easy, but if you are growing varieties with thorns, don’t forget to wear long sleeves and gloves to avoid getting pricked!
When you are ready, with gloves donned and basket in hand, simply pluck the hips off of the plant with your fingers.
If you are collecting from more than one cultivar, separating them into different containers may be helpful to note the parent plants. But unless you are breeding them in a controlled environment, don’t expect an exact replica to grow after you plant the seeds.
Bees and other pollinators may transport pollen from one plant to another, and it is impossible to know exactly where the pollen is winding up. Additionally, seeds collected from hybrid varieties may not breed true.
In any case, be prepared to propagate something different than what you started with!
Remove and Clean the Seeds
After harvesting, carefully cut or pry the hips open with a knife or your fingers, and remove the contents within. If the pods are ripe, they should come apart pretty easily.
Remove as much of the pulp and other fibrous material as you can by hand, and then use a strainer to rinse off any leftover chaff from the seeds under cool running water.
Another method is to put the hips in a glass of water and mash them up a bit with a spoon. Leave them to soak for a day or two, and then pull out the loose pulp by hand. Using a strainer, rinse off the remaining debris.
With either of these methods, after you’re done, drop the cleaned seeds in a glass of water to test for viability. Those that float to the top are less likely to germinate and should be discarded.
Spread the remainder on a coffee filter or paper towel and set in a dark, cool location to dry. Leave them for a week or two until they are completely dry to eliminate the risk of spoilage.
Store in a labeled plastic bag in the refrigerator or any dark cool place until you are ready to use them.
The first time I saw a persimmon, I thought it was a tomato that I was expected to eat raw and whole. It’s not, of course – it’s much better.
Or at least it’s much better for those of us who don’t like eating tomatoes out of hand like apples, and who do love the sweet tang of this unique fruit.
Asian persimmons (Diospyros kaki) are best suited to growing in USDA Hardiness Zones 7-11, while American persimmons (D. virginiana) are hardy to Zone 5.
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If you’re growing these delicious fruits, whose botanical genus name Diospyros translates to something like “food of the gods,” how do you know when they’re ripe and ready for picking?
In this guide, we’ll tell all.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
A Quick Persimmon Primer
Determining when you should harvest these tasty fruits depends not on which specific variety you’re growing, but on whether or not it’s astringent.
An astringent persimmon contains mouth-puckering tannins when it’s unripe, making it just about inedible – or at least that’s the case until it’s so ripe that it’s about to fall off the tree.
These fruits are the most richly flavored, with hints of pumpkin, maple, and spice. If you ask me, a soft, squishy, super ripe persimmon is pretty much the epitome of fall coziness.
Non-astringent varieties have far fewer tannins and lose them a lot more quickly, so you can pick them as soon as they turn that unique orange-pink color. Or you can wait until they’re softer, if you want to.
Since they don’t have as many tannins, they’re milder in flavor than their astringent sisters. But you can eat them while they’re still crispy and crunchy, which means they’re perfect for use in salads.
D. virginiana grows wild throughout the eastern half of the United States, from the Gulf states up into Pennsylvania and Illinois.
Whether you have a wild D. virginiana tree in your backyard, or if you planted one there yourself from a nursery, the American variety is astringent. You can read our full growing guide here.
In the D. kaki species, two varieties are grown widely in the United States:
The single most important thing to note when you’re preparing to harvest your fruit is whether or not it’s astringent or non-astringent.
The last thing you want to do is think you’re growing (or assume you’ve picked) a non-astringent variety, take a huge bite, and dash the overbearingly acrid astringent fruit to the ground in surprise.
The Best Time to Harvest
As you might have guessed, there are two main harvest times for these fruits, and determining when yours is likely to be depends on which type you’re growing.
Non-Astringent Fruits
Since they don’t have to ripen to a stage of utter softness on the tree, non-astringent persimmons can be harvested as soon as they turn from green to orange-pink or red.
This usually happens sometime in September or October.
Whether you leave them on the tree or pick them, they’ll ripen and become more soft with time. If you like them crunchy or firm, be sure to pick them and eat them up quick!
Astringent Fruits
Astringent persimmons often aren’t ready until somewhere between October and January.
As with non-astringent types, you can harvest them before they are fully ripe, and ripen them off the tree.
Astringent types are ready to harvest when they have changed to the expected mature color of the cultivar you are growing. If they are still unripe, you will need to ripen them before eating.
The easiest way to determine ripeness is to make sure the color has changed from green to pinkish-red, and the fruit should be so soft that it nearly bursts when you touch it gently with your finger.
The skin will often look wrinkly, kind of like an overripe tomato.
How to Pick
No matter which type of persimmon you’re growing, you harvest them the same way. Get out a pair of clean gardening scissors or pruning shears, and cut the stem of the fruit above the calyx.
Leave the calyx intact until you eat or process the fruit, to prevent it from rotting before you can enjoy it.
For firm persimmons, you can pile the fruits up in a basket or bucket and then bring them inside. With soft, ripe fruits, however, you’ll want to arrange them in a single layer in a shallow tray so they don’t get squished or bruised.
How Do You Eat a Fresh Persimmon?
Unless you grew up eating these tasty fruits, you might need a little help figuring out exactly how to eat the soft ones.
The firm ones are easy: you can just eat them like you’d eat an apple, skin and all, avoiding the core and any seeds you find. These can also be cut up to add to salads and baked goods.
But what about the squishy, jelly-like, oozing ripe ones?
All you have to do is cut them in half, get a spoon, and scoop the squishy flesh out of the skin and onto your waiting tongue.
You can also cut it into pieces, skin and all, and eat it with a spoon. Or try it on top of ice cream or yogurt, mixed into your favorite desserts or oatmeal, or added to a smoothie.
Storage and Preservation Tips
If you pick your fruits ripe from the tree, plan to devour them within two days after picking if you keep them on the countertop, or within five days if you refrigerate them.
If you prefer to pick them when they’re not quite ripe, or if you’re dealing with firm fruits, you can store them in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator for up to one month. This way, they’ll ripen slowly.
You can even freeze non-astringent persimmons whole and then use them in smoothies, baked goods, and other recipes later on. Whole frozen fruits may be stored in the freezer for up to six months.
For soft, squishy fruits, if you puree it in your blender, the pulp may be frozen for up to one year. You can use the puree in smoothies and baked goods all year long!
Puree can also be used to make jam or beer. And firm, non-astringent fruit can be air-dried, or dried in the oven.
Recipes and Cooking Ideas
Crisp D. kaki or D. virginiana fruit can be substituted for apples in just about any dish.
So why not try subbing sweet slices in this recipe for a French apple tart with a maple syrup glaze from our sister site, Foodal?
Photo by Nikki Cervone.
Or, try subbing them for apples in this recipe for autumn apple and radicchio salad, also from Foodal.
Can you imagine a tastier seasonal salad? I can’t.
As for the squishy fruits, try making them into a tasty pudding, or whizzing them into a smoothie.
Even better, use persimmon puree instead of pumpkin puree in my favorite recipe for pumpkin bread, also on Foodal.
The options are endless for this surprisingly versatile fruit!
Perfect Persimmons
Whether you love them soft and jelly-like or crisp like an apple, there’s nothing quite like a fresh persimmon grown and harvested from your own backyard orchard.
So tell me: what’s your favorite way to eat D. kaki or D. virginiana fruit? Let me know in the comments below, and drop any questions you have, too!
Hydrangeas are perfect garden bushes. The plants are quick growing, low maintenance, and produce loads of bright, voluminous blooms.
Naturally, they grow as multi-stemmed shrubs, and need occasional pruning to keep them in shape. But have you ever seen tree form hydrangeas at a nursery?
Looking a little like a lollipop, these standard trees are a tall, sleek, modern twist on the beloved blooming bush.
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It’s tempting to add a few of these lollipops to your cart, but thanks to the years-long process required to shape and allow a plant to mature, they can be pricey.
Not to worry: if you have some patience and keep reading, you can learn how to train your own hydrangeas into a tree form.
Tree form plants are also known as standards. You can find standard lavender, maples, gardenias… the list goes on and on.
The best species that you can choose to create a tree from is the panicle variety, H. paniculata, which is actually sometimes called the tree hydrangea.
These bushy plants, with their large, conical blooms, are hardy in Zones 3 to 9. They flower on new wood, creating their buds in the spring, and are fast growing and resilient.
As you get ready to do some serious clipping, keep in mind that clean tools are essential during the entire process.
You don’t want to transmit disease pathogens or pests to your plants, which will be in a compromised state after pruning, particularly after the first trim.
Disinfect your shears or clippers by dipping them in a 10 percent bleach solution before beginning, and between plants.
Start Snipping
You can start with a rooted cutting like the nursery people do, or with a more established plant.
Either way, have some patience! It can take over five years to shape a perfectly pruned tree form hydrangea, so be prepared to develop a close relationship with your pruning shears during this process.
The tree form shrubs that you can find at the nursery, such as the ‘Little Lime’ option that’s available at Nature Hills, were likely trained to be standards from the very beginning.
Tall hardwood cuttings are stripped of all but a few leaves and branches at the top. The apical meristem, or the tip responsible for upward growth, is clipped out to encourage development of the lateral meristems, or those that will grow branches.
This is just like pinching a flowering plant to encourage more flower-bearing branches to grow.
Once rooted, and when the top is producing new leaves and stems, several minor pruning sessions to follow will encourage the branching growth that will create the round top.
Years of pruning and shaping, cutting out any suckers from the crown, removing leaves or branches that sprout from the trunk, and keeping the top branching out into a rounded shape, will result in the standard shape like you can find at the nursery.
While rooting hydrangea cuttings isn’t difficult, and you could start from scratch like commercial growers often do, it adds quite a bit of time to the process.
So, why not start with a small plant instead of a rooted cutting?
In the spring or summer, choose a healthy plant of your favorite panicle hydrangea variety. You will be doing a lot of snipping, so the more vigorous the plant is, the better it will come through these harsh pruning sessions.
You can choose a young plant that’s planted in the ground, or one that’s still in a pot. It’s best to choose a plant with stems that aren’t too thick yet; around a quarter of an inch in diameter is perfect.
No doubt the shrub will have multiple stems, so pick the most upright center-oriented stem as your leader. Clip away the other stems as near to the soil line as possible.
Secure the main stem with a bamboo stake and use gardening tape or ties to keep it upright and straight. Position the stake close to the trunk and sink it at least six inches into the ground, taking care to avoid damaging the roots.
The following spring, remove any branches that have grown from the bottom two-thirds of the main stem.
Snip the tip of the main stem off as well, cutting below a leaf node. This removes the stem’s apical meristem and encourages it to branch outwards rather than growing longer.
You can cut it at whatever length you wish, but anywhere around three feet, if the bush is that tall, is common.
Pruning the head of the tree must be done at least once every year in the early winter, otherwise the branches may grow too long and crack from the weight of flowers, or under snow that blankets them.
You are aiming for a full, rounded head. Shape the top by pruning branches six to eight inches from the top of the trunk. Cut branches just above a node.
As the plant grows each year, remove any side shoots that appear from the crown of the plant and out of the trunk as they appear.
The beauty of panicle types is that they bloom on new wood, so even after pruning them hard in the early winter they will still bloom the following spring.
Keep the tree braced and supported against wind for a few years, allowing the trunk to thicken and strengthen. The stake can be removed when the trunk can support the tree top.
Once you’re happy with the height and shape, continue with early winter maintenance pruning as you would with other types of hydrangea bushes, to keep the shape compact and round.
Best Uses
After all the work you’ve put into it, a tree form plant deserves to be the focal point of your garden or patio.
Photo by Harvey Barrison, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
I’ve seen tall white-blossomed hydrangea standards alternating with big purple lavender bushes lining a driveway, with a thick layer of colored mulch and a manicured lawn to complete the look. Beautiful!
Feature them in a pot on your porch, adding flowers like petunias to the pot for layers of color.
Plant them along a fence, as sentinels at your doorway, or in your garden among other bushes and plants as you would a shrub hydrangea.
In a pot, they make great gifts as well!
Lollipop Hydrangeas
There is no doubt that a ball of big, bright blooms on a stick is eye-catching. Now that you know how to form one yourself, I’m sure no one would blame you if you went ahead and added lollipop hydrangeas all over your yard!
Sure, it takes some patience and work to create one, with several years of necessary pruning before it looks like a finished product, but the effect is worth it.
If you try this and have questions, leave us a comment. Plus, share some photos of your creation!
And for more information about growing hydrangeas in your garden, have a look at these guides next:
Even in temperate areas, climate change is rapidly forcing us to recalibrate what we grow and how we grow it. For many of us who are dealing with endless heatwaves and drought, that means choosing resilient plants that don’t need cosseting or regular irrigation and can survive baking hot summers and low rainfall. (In many cases, these plants need to be able to cope with cold winters, too.)
We’ve rounded up some of our favorite tough, hot garden go-tos.
Photography by Clare Coulson unless otherwise noted.
Above: Most salvias are drought-tolerant and many are hardy, too. Salvia nemorosa varieties offer fantastic presence in borders with their spires of intensely colorful flowers. ‘Caradonna’ is a garden stalwart, with deep indigo flowers on strong stems that will associate well with roses, grasses, and most other perennials. If cut back it will also re-flower later in the season.
Above: If you need vertical structure, it’s hard to beat Calamagrostis x acutiflora (feather reed grass), which flowers earlier than many other grasses and will maintain its structure through winter, making it an incredibly useful plant to design with. Here, A wall of Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ acts as a buffer around a swimming pool in a London garden. Photograph by Clare Coulson, from Garden Visit: At Home with Author Catherine Horwood in a Suffolk Village.
Above: Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’, at the foreground of this garden, makes a fantastic feature plant at the height of summer with its arching silvery stems smothered in the most beautiful, almost iridescent blue flowers. When mature it looks great as a clump of one or two plants through a border but can also be highly effective as a “river” against clipped evergreens. Old stems can be cut down to a permanent framework each spring. Photograph by Claire Takacs.
Peruvian Lily
Above: The Peruvian lily, alstroemeria, adds pops of color to the dry garden at Beth Chatto in Essex. Most commonly thought of as a cut flower plant as it’s an all too common addition in flower bouquets, alstroemeria can light up borders during the peak summer months. Tall stems are topped with veined flowers in delicious hues.
Above: Verbena bonariensis is one of the most used of the verbena family, providing tall stems punctuated with clusters of tiny purple flowers that are beloved by bees and especially by butterflies. It’s incredibly drought-tolerant—as are other popular and much shorter species such as V. hastata and V. rigida. It will also readily self-seed, providing lots of free plants.
We’re visiting with Joseph today in his northern Indiana garden.
It has been a great summer so far in my garden. Other than one errant hailstorm that tore up my hostas, we’ve had plenty of rain and no excess heat, and things are thriving. Here are some of my favorite things that have been blooming in the garden.
Moon carrot (Seseli gummiferum, Zones 5–9) looks a little like Queen Anne’s lace, but with the volume turned up. It is a biennial I grew from seed. Last year it was just a clump of silvery lacy foliage, and this year it exploded into this display of white umbles. Since it is a biennial I don’t expect the plant to come back next year, but I’ve heard it tends to self-sow, so hopefully I’ll have new ones.
This is either Gentiana septemfida or Gentiana paradoxa (Zones 4–8). I grew both from seed and then got them mixed up, and I honestly don’t know how to tell the two apart. Whichever it is, I’m loving the incredible true-blue flowers on tidy, low-growing plants. The best part is that they start blooming right in the height of summer when I’m ready to have something new and beautiful in the garden.
I really like this particular gentian seedling, with its white throat that contrasts with the dark blue petals.
I planted a bunch of low-growing, drought-tolerant plants in the bed next to the sidewalk, and I am enjoying how they are starting to knit together. Here, hens and chicks (Sempervivum sp., Zones 3–8) and woolly thyme (Thymus serpyllum, Zones 4–8) are getting up close and personal.
I would have had a better display of ‘Scheherazade’ lily (Lilium ‘Scheherazade’, Zones 4–8), but the flowers got pretty damaged by our little hailstorm. But I love the blooms that survived and am looking forward to an even better display next year.
This little harebell (Campanula rotundifolia, Zones 3–6) is a species native all around the northern hemisphere. It has bloomed more or less all summer despite being given a few haircuts by the rabbits.
Every summer I look forward to vespers iris(Iris dichotoma, Zones 5–9) blooming. The flowers are small but are produced in big air clouds, and they open each afternoon around 4 pm. I love seeing them pop open and then watching the bees come by for nectar and pollen.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
In addition to being a great afternoon of fun (really!), PC fixes can save you heaps of time and cash. No measure of tomfoolery, cash, or time is sufficient, however, think twice about well-being for more information check Tech!Espresso
Switch the power off before adjusting anything. This thought to continuously be your initial step, any time you work with gadgets. Don’t for even a moment open the PC case except if the power is switched off. Check to see if you’ve turned off the case’s lights and not just put your computer into hibernation if you see any.
A mechanical switch on the back of many power supply units cuts off power to the device and, ultimately, the rest of your PC. Assuming your PSU has one, go it to the off position.
On the off chance that you’re dealing with a PC, netbook, or tablet, eliminate the battery as well as separate the air conditioner power, before eliminating or dismantling anything.
Unplug for Additional Safety
As a second safety measure, unplug the computer from the power strip or wall.
Even if the battery backup itself is disconnected from its power source, be sure to unplug it from there if it is plugged into one. There is probably still power flowing through it, which means that it is connected to your computer as well.
The question of whether the computer was turned off before has been resolved.
Stay away from Smoke and Scents
See smoke coming from the power supply or inside the case, or smell a consuming or patch fragrance? If so:
You need to stop doing that.
Take the computer’s plug out of the wall. Avoid waiting for it to stop working.
Permit the PC to cool or release turned off for something like 5 minutes.
At long last, assuming you know which gadget created the smoke or smell, eliminate and supplant it before you keep on utilizing your PC. If the device is a power supply, especially one that has been damaged to this extent, do not attempt to repair it.
Remove Hand Jewelry
Wearing metal rings, watches, or bracelets while working around a high-voltage device like a power supply is a common way to get electrocuted.
Eliminate anything conductive from your hands before working inside your PC, particularly if you’re following through with something like testing your power supply.
Watch for Sharp Edges
There are much of the time sharp edges on individual PC parts and the actual case — essentially, anything metal. Make sure to keep an eye out for these areas to avoid being cut. You can likewise cover edges with something like tape.
Avoid capacitors
Capacitors are tiny electronic components that are found in many PC parts. After the power is turned off, they store electric charge for a short time, so it’s best to wait a few minutes before working on your PC.
Never Administration the Non-Functional
At the point when you run over names that say “No functional parts inside,” don’t accept it as a test or even an idea. This is a significant assertion.
Even the majority of skilled computer repair professionals cannot repair all of a computer’s components. You’ll normally see this admonition on power supply units, yet you may likewise see them on screens, hard drives, optical drives, and other risky or exceptionally delicate parts.
Let’s find out why heads are sometimes not as tight and sweet as we would like.
The Triggers of Trouble
When broccoli forms loose, separate florets, rather than a solid head, look to the essential growing conditions for answers.
Loose heads are a sign that growing conditions are less than ideal.
Problems in four main areas are most likely to cause this type of head malformation. They are: nutrient imbalances, warm or fluctuating temperatures, uneven moisture, and poorly timed planting.
Each one by itself may have an adverse effect, and when all four occur, chances of a disappointing result are even greater.
Plants already stressed by deficiencies in one or other area may be even more susceptible to not forming a proper head, and having a bitter taste.
Let’s talk about each cause.
Nutrient Imbalance
Broccoli is a heavy feeder, so nutrient-rich soil is a necessity.
The lack of key macro- and micro-nutrients can have an adverse effect on head formation.
In addition, over-fertilization with products that are not well balanced, and contain an excess of nitrogen, may result in excess foliage production, no heads, or heads that are loose.
Warm or Fluctuating Temperatures
Weather greatly affects broccoli performance. Ideally, crops are harvested before temperatures heat up in summertime, or just before the first hard frost.
If the temperature suddenly spikes, or yo-yos up and down, head formation may be compromised. As well as forming loosely, heads may button, forming small, individual florets, or bolt and go to seed.
Hot weather also causes brassicas to develop a bitter taste, particularly in conjunction with a lack of adequate moisture.
Drought or Fluctuating Moisture Levels
Fussy broccoli enjoys even moisture – it doesn’t like to dry out, but also won’t put up with wet feet.
Either of these conditions can stress the plant and cause it to prepare for flowering – which will result in the florets starting to elongate, giving the head a loose appearance.
Poorly Timed Planting
Finally, a crop may be doomed from the start if its days to maturity are not matched to the growing season of the region in which it is cultivated.
Granted, there may be unexpected temperature spikes or fluctuations as mentioned, but broccoli needs cool weather for proper head formation. You need to time your planting appropriately, so that it is not maturing during the heat of summer.
This may entail starting seeds indoors to get a jump on the growing season, or sowing early-maturing varieties directly outdoors in spring, after the last frost date; or by late summer, to harvest before the first hard frost.
Avoidance Measures
Once you know the possible culprits, the next step is to minimize the likelihood that any one of them will ruin your crop.
Here are actions to take:
Test your soil to determine its nutrient content. Add amendments like compost as needed. Fertilize with a well-balanced, slow-acting product that does not contain an excess of nitrogen.
Manage temperature spikes and fluctuations by watering well the day before an uptick in the heat, to keep the soil cool.
Use shade cloth to shelter plants from unseasonably warm sun. If fluctuations are expected, install floating row covers to maintain more even air and ground temperatures around your crops.
Temperatures that exceed 80°F, dip below 40°F, or bounce back and forth can spell trouble.
And perhaps most important of all, choose varieties that are suited to your USDA Hardiness Zone.
Sow seeds and seedlings in a timely manner, so that head formation is not taking place during summer heat or the hard freezes of fall or winter.
Firm and Flavorful
We have discussed the role that nutrients, temperature, and timing play in proper head formation. We have also suggested proactive measures to support the functions of each.
In addition, you need to understand the type of crop you’re growing. Sprouting varieties form individual florets, so make sure you actually have a heading type before becoming concerned. See our guide to the best broccoli varieties to learn more.
You’re now ready to grow a firm and flavorful crop.
Have you dealt with crops that didn’t grow as expected? Share your experiences with us and our readers in the comments section below.
Finding crops that survive Arizona’s hot and dry summers can be challenging. However, due to its heat and drought tolerance, the tepary bean (Phaseolus acutifolius) has thrived in this climate for thousands of years. Learn how to grow tepary beans and add this tasty crop to your summer and monsoon garden.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
What makes tepary beans well-suited to grow in the desert?
Tepary beans prefer warm weather and are well-suited for hot climates. The history of these legumes in Arizona dates back about 1000 years in Hohokam culture. These sturdy beans tolerate arid conditions and can survive with minimal irrigation, making them perfect for regions with limited rainfall.
Here are some of the adaptations that allow tepary beans to grow so well:
The reproductive cycle from blossom to bean happens quickly, allowing them to use moisture when available.
Their roots also grow deep, allowing the plant to access water unavailable to other more shallow-rooted crops.
Amazingly, the pollen in tepary bean flowers is viable at temperatures above 105°F (40°C).
The leaves track the sun and “tilt parallel” to lower the surface temperature of the plant.
Traditionally, tepary beans are planted with the monsoon moisture in July or early August. You can also plant in March for a less-traditional earlier harvest.
When choosing a location to grow tepary beans, make sure the soil is loose and well-draining. If you have clay soil, amend it with compost to improve drainage and prevent rotting.
Plant the seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep and 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) apart. Allow the beans room to bush and vine. You can grow up a trellis if desired. Tepary beans can grow in full-sun conditions.
Tepary beans climbing okra as a companion plant
Try growing tepary beans as a companion plant or cover crop (similar to cowpeas). I’ve grown tepary beans with corn and okra. The beans vine and climb up the plants quickly.
Tepary beans climbing the corn as a companion plant
Tepary bean growing tips
If it doesn’t rain, water deeply but infrequently. Excess water produces lush, vegetative growth but fewer beans.
Tepary beans are generally resistant to pests. However, tepary beans can harbor bean common mosaic virus that can transfer to other beans. Monitor plants for signs of disease. Symptoms include mosaic patterns on the leaves, along with puckering or curling. Pull and destroy affected plants.
As the beans grow, blossoms will develop, and then the beans will form. Once the pods begin drying out, discontinue watering.
Harvesting and storing tepary beans
Tepary beans typically mature in 60-120 days and are ready for harvest when the pods turn dry and brittle. For small amounts of beans, hand pick the seed pods.
To harvest the tepary beans from larger plantings:
Cut the plant off at soil level when most pods are dry (but before they split open).
Place plants on a tarp or sheet in a dry location long enough to allow the remaining pods to dry.
As the pods dry in some varieties, they will open, releasing the beans. If the pods do not release the beans naturally, crushing the plant can help the beans to drop.
Collect the sizeable dried-out plant matter, shake out any additional beans.
Sift/winnow the beans from the chaff.
Tip: Use the dried-out plant material as mulch on your garden beds. The leaves will quickly break down, adding organic matter to your soil.
Tepary bean plant matter being used as a cover crop or “straw” mulch for growing potatoes
Allow beans to dry for about two weeks. Store the dried beans in airtight containers in a cool, dark place to maintain their quality and extend their shelf life.
How to use tepary beans
Tepary beans have a slightly nutty flavor and a creamy texture when cooked. Here are a few suggestions on how to use and enjoy them:
Add cooked tepary beans to salads, soups, or stews, or chili for a delicious and protein-packed meal.
Mash cooked beans with garlic, herbs, and spices to create a flavorful bean dip.
Use tepary beans as a filling for tacos or burritos, combined with your favorite vegetables and seasonings.
Sources I used for information about tepary beans:
According to a 2019 survey, 38.5% of consumers in the United States stated that they had purchased green or eco-friendly home and home improvement products within the past twelve months.
Once dominated by dark cabinetry and a small window that hardly lets in natural light, your kitchen can be transformed into a bright, modern kitchen with open space and countertops crafted from reclaimed wood or recycled materials. This is more than a kitchen remodel – it’s
a kitchen makeover that values aesthetics and the environment.
Subway tiles lining the backsplash, a farmhouse sink that adds a touch of vintage charm, granite countertops adding a touch of class, and energy-efficient stainless steel appliances seamlessly working together—your eco-friendly kitchen upgrade ideas don’t skimp on style.
Let’s explore the best ways to merge style with sustainability, covering everything from kitchen layouts to cabinet doors, pendant lights, and new paint choices.
1. Energy-Efficient Appliances
Stepping into the realm of kitchen remodels, integrating energy-efficient appliances should be a top priority. Not only do they reduce environmental impact, but they also cut down on energy bills.
Imagine a stainless steel, energy-saving refrigerator or a dishwasher; their aesthetics enhance any kitchen design while their function prioritizes sustainability. A win-win situation, these appliances bring style and substance, becoming the heroes of an eco-friendly kitchen renovation.
Selecting energy-efficient refrigerators, dishwashers, and ovens:
Refrigerators, dishwashers, and ovens play a fundamental role in any kitchen design, but it is worth evaluating their energy efficiency.
Refrigerators are powerhouses that run 24/7. An energy-efficient model can make a dramatic difference in power usage. Many also boast designs that increase storage space without enlarging the kitchen’s footprint.
Dishwashers have seen advancements. Current models can minimize water usage and effectively handle those pesky spilled food incidents without straining our planet’s resources.
Convection ovens are known to reduce cooking times and save energy. Whether your preference leans toward gas or electric, some energy-efficient models perform better and add a stylish touch to your kitchen remodel.
Every element, from large appliances to small details, can contribute to a more eco-friendly, energy-saving kitchen that doesn’t compromise style or function.
Considering ENERGY STAR ratings:
Upgrading to ENERGY STAR-rated appliances like a refrigerator or dishwasher modernizes your kitchen design and offers significant energy savings.
The stainless steel appliances bearing this rating are trendy in kitchen renovations due to their sleek design and functionality. They complement granite or marble countertops beautifully, providing a contemporary kitchen feel.
The kitchen is not just about cooking; it’s also a focal point for entertaining guests. Investing in appliances that offer savings and make your kitchen remodel eco-friendly while ensuring a pleasant environment makes sense.
Prioritize form and functionality when you embark on your kitchen remodels, and you’ll create a beautiful, efficient, and sustainable space.
2. Water Conservation
Modern kitchen designs often prioritize sustainability, with features like a farmhouse sink fitted with a low-flow faucet or a dishwasher with a water-efficient cycle. These upgrades can help make your entire kitchen a cooking and dining area and an eco-friendly hub in your home.
Installing low-flow faucets and aerators:
An often-overlooked element of a kitchen renovation is the humble kitchen faucet. Installing low-flow faucets and aerators is a decision that can have a considerable impact.
Low-flow faucets and aerators can significantly reduce water usage, thus contributing to water conservation and lower utility bills. They introduce air into the water stream, maintaining a high-pressure flow while reducing water usage.
Pair these faucets with a farmhouse sink for a marriage of style and sustainability. The sink’s generous size, coupled with the efficiency of a low-flow faucet, ensures function and form in equal measure. For a unified look, choose finishes that match your new hardware, whether you’ve opted for the warmth of brass or the sleekness of stainless steel.
Using water-efficient dishwashers and sinks:
An ENERGY STAR-rated dishwasher uses less water per cycle than washing dishes by hand, making it an excellent investment for your kitchen renovation.
When it comes to sinks, pairing a water-efficient sink with a low-flow faucet optimizes your conservation efforts. A deep, single-basin farmhouse sink can save water by allowing you to wash and rinse dishes in the same space.
Equally important is the placement of the sink. If you have an L-shaped or galley layout, ensure the sink is centrally located for easy access. This can help minimize water wastage while rinsing and preparing food.
Including water efficiency in your kitchen remodel ideas is beneficial for conserving a valuable resource and reducing your water bill significantly. Sustainability and style go hand-in-hand in a modern kitchen.
3. Sustainable Materials
Using sustainable materials in kitchen remodeling is a rising trend combining aesthetics and eco-consciousness. Imagine countertops made from reclaimed wood or cabinets crafted from sustainably sourced timber. Even small touches, like choosing eco-friendly paint or installing a backsplash with recycled subway tiles, can significantly contribute to a green kitchen remodel, creating a space that’s not just visually appealing but environmentally responsible, too.
Choosing eco-friendly countertops and flooring options:
Countertops made from quartz offer a more sustainable alternative to granite countertops. Quartz is durable, hygienic, and non-porous, making it an excellent choice for kitchens where spills and stains from spilled food are a regular occurrence. For an even greener option, wood countertops made from reclaimed or sustainably sourced wood provide a warm, rustic appeal and reduce the demand for virgin wood.
When it comes to flooring, consider materials like bamboo or cork. They’re renewable, durable, and can withstand the heavy traffic of a bustling kitchen. Bamboo, in particular, complements white or gray cabinets beautifully, adding a natural elegance to your space.
An eco-friendly kitchen remodel is about choosing materials that align with your style, durability needs, and environmental values.
Utilizing reclaimed or recycled materials:
Reclaimed or recycled materials inject a sense of character and history into your space, but they also significantly reduce the environmental impact of your renovation.
Reclaimed wood makes for stunning kitchen islands or open shelves. It can introduce a rustic charm while being an environmentally friendly option. Pay attention to the potential of recycled glass or ceramic tiles for a unique subway tile backsplash. Their varied colors and textures can add visual interest and a touch of the unique to your kitchen.
Even old cabinets can be given a new life with a simple coat of fresh paint. Painted cabinets in crisp white or neutral tones can uplift the entire kitchen’s atmosphere, providing a cost-effective and eco-conscious alternative to new cabinetry.
Incorporating reclaimed and recycled materials into your kitchen remodel ideas can create a kitchen that’s as sustainable as it is stylish.
4. Efficient Lighting
Lighting is not just about illuminating your space; it’s about enhancing efficiency and creating mood. From task lighting over your cutting boards to pendant lights over the dining area, energy-efficient LED lights can revolutionize how you experience your kitchen.
With careful planning, you can optimize natural light, reduce energy consumption, and create a warm, inviting atmosphere that complements your kitchen designs.
Opting for LED or CFL light bulbs:
Opting for LED or CFL light bulbs can make a significant difference in both the ambiance of your kitchen and your energy bill. LED and CFL bulbs consume considerably less energy than traditional incandescent bulbs while offering a range of lighting options to cater to your kitchen’s needs. Whether task lighting for meal prep on your kitchen island or ambient lighting for casual dining and entertaining guests, these bulbs offer efficient and versatile solutions.
The longevity of LED and CFL bulbs means fewer replacements, contributing to less waste. Pair these with different fixtures that complement your kitchen’s aesthetics, whether contemporary, farmhouse, or modern.
A well-planned lighting design can enhance your kitchen remodel, creating a practical and inviting space while prioritizing energy efficiency.
Incorporating natural lighting through windows and skylights:
Natural light uniquely breathes life into any space, and your kitchen is no exception. Consider maximizing natural light flow through windows and skylights as part of your kitchen remodeling ideas.
If you’re dealing with a kitchen with only one small window, think about the potential of adding more or enlarging the existing one. A larger window increases natural light and provides a lovely view and a connection to the outdoors.
A skylight is another excellent option, especially if wall space is limited. It can brighten the kitchen’s footprint and create an airy, open space. Pairing a skylight with a white paint job or white subway tiles can enhance the sense of brightness.
Natural light reduces the need for artificial lighting and creates a warm, inviting atmosphere. It’s an investment that makes sense both aesthetically and energetically.
5. Waste Reduction
From composting food waste to recycling old kitchen cabinets, every decision can contribute to a smaller environmental footprint. Adopting a mindful approach to waste management can be as simple as integrating recycling centers into your kitchen design or choosing new appliances with eco-friendly disposal programs. Let’s explore how to make your kitchen makeover more sustainable.
Implementing recycling and composting systems:
Implementing recycling and composting systems reduces waste while contributing to a healthier planet. A dual-bin set up under the sink or in a pull-out drawer can make recycling everyday items like paper, plastic, and glass effortless.
Composting is another sustainable practice that makes sense in the kitchen. Even if you’re concerned about making compost without a compost pile, numerous in-kitchen compost bins are designed to fit neatly into your kitchen layout. You can collect vegetable peels, coffee grounds, eggshells, and other organic waste, turning them into nutrient-rich compost for your plants.
These systems can be conveniently located and seamlessly integrated into your kitchen design, whether you have a sprawling kitchen or a compact galley layout.
Designing efficient storage and organization solutions:
Efficient storage and organization solutions can declutter your countertops, providing a neat surface area for meal prep and significantly reducing waste.
Consider custom cabinetry that perfectly fits your kitchen’s footprint and provides dedicated space for all your kitchen essentials. Drawers with built-in dividers for utensils, pull-out racks for pots and pans, and special compartments for small appliances can dramatically improve kitchen functionality.
Open shelving or plate racks are excellent for keeping dishes within easy reach, while a well-placed kitchen island can offer extra storage space underneath.
Incorporate recycling and composting bins into your lower cabinets, ensuring waste management is a seamless part of your kitchen routine. The inside of your cabinet doors—hooks and racks here can provide added storage for cutting boards or baking trays.
An efficiently organized kitchen simplifies cooking and minimizes the likelihood of overbuying, thus reducing waste. It’s a win-win in any kitchen remodel.
6. Smart Energy Management
Smart energy management can make your kitchen remodel sleek, modern, more sustainable, and efficient. This approach uses advanced technology to optimize energy usage, from regulating temperature with a smart thermostat to operating appliances during off-peak energy hours.
Integrating smart energy management into your kitchen design is a step towards a greener, more cost-effective kitchen, from energy-efficient stainless steel appliances to programmable lighting systems. Let’s explore how to make this a reality in your kitchen renovation.
Installing smart thermostats and energy monitoring devices:
Upgrading your kitchen should surpass paint and countertops; consider incorporating smart technology. Installing smart thermostats can transform your kitchen’s footprint into an energy-efficient hub. They can adjust your home’s temperature automatically for optimal comfort and energy savings.
Energy monitoring devices can also be a game changer in kitchen remodel ideas. These devices help track the energy consumption of your appliances, such as your refrigerator or dishwasher. This added information storage allows you to save money by understanding which appliances are energy guzzlers.
While planning your kitchen remodel, remember that modern kitchen designs prioritize form and functionality. Pay attention to these smart upgrades. They make sense and contribute to a sustainable and efficient kitchen space.
Utilizing renewable energy sources:
Integrating renewable energy sources can be a game changer in the context of a kitchen remodel. Along with the aesthetic appeal of subway tiles and granite countertops, renewable energy introduces cost-effectiveness and eco-friendliness to your kitchen renovation plans.
Consider installing solar panels. The energy harnessed can power everything from your small appliances to your task lighting. With the sun as a reliable energy source, your kitchen becomes an environmentally-friendly space that saves you money over time.
Use biomass energy—derived from organic waste like vegetable peels and coffee grounds. Biomass stoves, which can cook food and heat your home, are becoming increasingly popular in contemporary kitchen design.
By incorporating renewable energy sources, your kitchen remodels typical kitchen remodeling ideas, focusing not only on a space where you entertain guests but also one where you contribute positively to our planet.
7. Indoor Air Quality
Without properly considering IAQ, cooking on your stainless steel appliances or painting your cabinets can impact your home’s air quality. Let’s explore how to ensure our kitchen renovation enhances style and functionality and contributes to a healthier, fresher indoor environment.
Ventilating the kitchen properly:
Cooking and cleaning in kitchens generate heat and moisture, leading to a stuffy and uncomfortable environment. More importantly, it can contribute to poor indoor air quality.
Installing a good quality range hood above your stove during your kitchen makeover can ensure those aromas from your cooking, and more crucially, any potentially harmful gasses, are swiftly removed. Ventilation also helps reduce excess humidity, discouraging mold and bacteria growth on your marble countertops or within your custom cabinetry.
Large or several windows can promote natural ventilation and invite more natural light into your kitchen. Consider an energy-efficient air purifier or an exhaust fan if your kitchen design is constrained by only one small window.
A well-ventilated kitchen elevates indoor air quality and adds to the pleasure of cooking and dining in your space.
Selecting low or zero VOC paints and finishes:
The kitchen remodel journey involves numerous decisions, from selecting the perfect subway tile backsplash to choosing the ideal paint for your kitchen upper cabinets. Paints and finishes are often overlooked when considering kitchen air quality. Traditional paints contain Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), which can off-gas over time and degrade indoor air quality.
Consider low or zero-VOC paints and finishes for your kitchen makeover. These eco-friendly options minimize harmful emissions without compromising on quality or color options. Low or zero VOC paints can deliver vibrant results if you dream of fresh white cabinets, a bold accent wall, or a neutral tone for your kitchen island.
Choosing such paints is a conscious step towards healthier living and a cleaner environment, making your kitchen remodel visually appealing and wholesome.
8. Sustainable Cooking Practices
A kitchen renovation can beautifully transform your space with elements like a subway tile backsplash, quartz countertops, or a modern kitchen island. Cooking, a vital part of kitchen function, can be made more sustainable. Let’s explore how you can pair your kitchen remodeling ideas with eco-friendly cooking habits to create a sustainable kitchen in both form and function.
Using energy-efficient cooking methods:
Kitchen designs often focus on aesthetics like marble countertops or custom cabinetry; energy-efficient cooking methods can play an important role in a sustainable kitchen remodel.
Consider induction cooktops. They use electromagnetic fields to heat pots and pans directly, making them more energy-efficient than traditional gas or electric stoves. They heat the cookware directly, and there’s less heat loss, keeping your kitchen cooler.
Using slow cookers or pressure cookers can reduce energy consumption. They use less electricity over extended periods, making them an excellent option for your energy-conscious kitchen.
Cooking multiple meals at once or using all your oven racks can save energy. Combining these practices with energy-efficient appliances and renewable energy sources can create an inviting, eco-friendly kitchen where you can entertain guests or enjoy a casual dining experience without the guilt of unnecessary energy expenditure.
Choosing sustainable and locally sourced ingredients:
Every meal you prepare can testify to sustainability in your reimagined kitchen, where new appliances shine, and a marble backsplash stands out. This can be achieved by incorporating sustainable and locally sourced ingredients into your cooking routine.
Shopping for ingredients from local farmers’ markets or community-supported agriculture can significantly reduce your carbon footprint. You’re supporting local businesses and cutting down on transportation and packaging waste.
Consider buying organic produce, free from harmful pesticides and harmful farming practices. Using these ingredients in your cooking benefits your health and promotes sustainable farming practices.
Sustainable cooking also means minimizing food waste. Plan your meals to use up ingredients efficiently, compost scraps, or find creative uses for leftovers.
By adopting these practices, you’re not just making your kitchen a place to cook and eat. You’re turning it into a space that reflects your commitment to the environment, adding a meaningful layer to your kitchen remodel ideas.
Conclusion
Creating an eco-friendly kitchen means something other than compromising on style or functionality. This guide to designing a sustainable kitchen underscores that concept, offering a spectrum of strategies seamlessly blending sustainability with your unique remodeling kitchen ideas.
Energy-efficient appliances, such as refrigerators or dishwashers, coupled with smart energy management through thermostats and renewable energy sources, can drastically reduce your energy consumption. Likewise, water conservation methods, like installing low-flow faucets, contribute significantly to preserving our vital resources.
The choice of materials also plays a crucial role. Whether eco-friendly countertops or reclaimed wood for your cabinets, sustainable materials are stylish and kinder to the environment; coupled with efficient lighting solutions, your kitchen can become a model of sustainability and aesthetics.
Remember to factor in indoor air quality. Ventilation and low-VOC paints are a great way to ensure your new kitchen remains healthy. Sustainability extends to your kitchen practices too. From energy-efficient cooking methods to opting for locally-sourced ingredients, your choices in your kitchen routine can have a considerable impact.
A kitchen renovation goes beyond a visual upgrade. It’s about creating a space that embodies your values and lifestyle. By integrating these sustainable strategies, your kitchen
Repotting aloe vera is very simple, even for beginners. In this post, I’m going to explain everything you need to know about replanting your aloe vera, with step-by-step instructions.
If your aloe vera has outgrown its container or seems to be growing very slowly, then it’s time to repot it.
The process doesn’t require any special skills and can completely rejuvenate your plant.
This guide will answer all your questions about repotting aloe vera and explain exactly how to do it, step by step, so you’ll be able to keep your plant flourishing for years to come.
When To Repot Aloe Vera
The best time to repot aloe vera is in the spring or early summer. This is just before its period of active growth.
I don’t recommend doing it in the fall or winter, because it can trigger new growth which may become leggy and weak.
Avoid repotting a sick or bug-infested aloe vera, as the process is stressful for them and your plant may not be able to recover from the transplant shock.
If you just brought it home from the store, allow it to become accustomed to its new environment for several weeks before moving it to a new container.
How Do You Know When Your Aloe Vera Needs Repotting?
You’ll know your aloe vera needs repotting when you see signs it has become too big for its container.
You may notice roots emerging from the bottom of the pot or showing above the soil. You may even see that the container is bulging or has started to crack.
Here are some other signs that it’s time to repot your aloe vera plant…
Its growth has slowed down or stopped altogether
The container has become top-heavy and keeps falling over
The soil won’t absorb water and it runs straight through
Before I explain the steps for repotting your aloe vera, let’s take a look at the best type of container to use. The right pot and soil will make it much easier for your plant to adjust to its new home.
Choosing A New Pot
Since aloe vera is a succulent, it doesn’t like much moisture. This means the new pot should have drainage holes in the bottom and only be 1 to 2 sizes bigger than the original.
A larger container will provide too much space and cause the soil to retain more water, potentially leading to root rot.
I recommend choosing a pot made from unfinished clay or terracotta, as these are porous and will allow moisture and air to move through the walls.
Best Soil For Repotting Aloe Vera Plants
The best soil for repotting aloe vera plants is a well-draining, sandy mix with a neutral pH, which you can test with a simple probe.
Once you have repotted your aloe vera plant, water it lightly to remove any air pockets and give it time to settle in its new container.
Keep an eye on it to see if any large holes develop in the soil as it settles, and add a little more if needed.
Healthy aloe vera plants don’t usually have any problems after repotting. But don’t panic if yours looks a little droopy at first.
If it doesn’t bounce back after a few days, it may be suffering from transplant shock. Check that you’re not overwatering, and avoid fertilizing it for at least one month.
Then just keep the plant in its regular spot and leave it alone until it has recovered.
No, aloe vera plants don’t need big pots. A large container allows the soil to hold on to too much water, which can lead to root rot. Instead, choose a pot that is 2-4”, or one to two sizes, larger than the current container.
Do aloe plants like to be root-bound?
Aloe plants are happy to be a little root-bound, but it’s best to repot them once they start outgrowing their container, otherwise they may dry out too quickly.
Should you water aloe vera after repotting?
Yes, you should water aloe vera after repotting, unless the soil was already wet. Giving it a light drink will encourage it to settle in its new home.
If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!
More About Aloe Vera
More About Repotting Plants
Share your tips for repotting aloe vera in the comments section below.
Step By Step Instructions
How To Repot Aloe Vera
Learn how to repot your aloe vera plant. Discover my tips for replanting it successfully, including the best type of soil and container to use, and how to care for your plant in its new home.
Prep Time 10 minutes
Active Time 10 minutes
Total Time 20 minutes
Difficulty Easy
Notes
Always make sure your aloe vera plant is well hydrated before repotting.
Never repot a brand new or an unhealthy aloe vera plant.
Do not fertilize your newly repotted aloe vera plant for at least a month to lessen the risk of transplant shock.
In this guide, we’ll tackle the best techniques for overwintering your plants. Read on to find out more.
Winter is coming… As indefatigable as a horde of undead zombies barreling towards your garden – “Game of Thrones,” anyone? – in almost every part of the world, the long, cold winter is an inescapable fact.
And although your potted plants can be easily whisked away to the warmth of the house, that doesn’t mean they’re impervious to the seasonal changes happening outdoors.
As winter approaches, not only does the amount of sunlight reaching the earth decrease, but the intensity of it lessens, too.
The air cools, the nights lengthen, and, accordingly, plant growth slows down.
What Does Winter Do to a Succulent?
As plants receive these climatic cues from the outdoors they enter a period of dormancy, or decreased growth if the winter period is not very severe.
Less sunlight means less photosynthesis, but it also means less heat, which is an important ingredient in plant growth. In short, plants need the sun and its warmth to grow, flower, set seed, and prosper.
Succulents are lovers of sun and heat. Although some are miraculously adapted for cold weather with a coat of thick hairs or tough exterior skin, none of them like the dull, gloomy winter days that often characterize winter in the Northern Hemisphere.
When sunlight decreases, succulents can actually start to shed leaves or become etiolated – a fancy word which means long and stringy and skinny.
Insufficient light can eventually kill a succulent, especially if it’s suddenly brought from the warm and sunny, summery outdoors to shaded, more moderate temperatures indoors.
Read on to find out how to manage this seasonal transition and steward your succulents through the chilliest months of the year, and back into sunlit summer days.
Inside or Out?
The decision to move plants indoors is easily made based on your USDA Hardiness Zone.
If you’re Zone 6 or under, you have serious winters to contend with and should definitely shift all succulents, with a few exceptions, inside.
If you’re Zone 7 and up, find out what the minimum Hardiness Zone is for your specific species and variety.
Some, such as the euphorbias, will withstand winter weather just fine. The sedums, popular and widespread garden perennials, are hardy to Zone 3, for example.
A few succulents may be borderline hardy, or prone to windburn. These more sensitive species will benefit from protection such as horticultural fleece, or garden fabric, during winter.
Just as we mulch perennials in the fall, a layer of grit or gravel will help ensure good drainage around outdoor succulents and provide some insulation for the soil, so pile on an extra half an inch.
Moving Indoors
Once the weather begins to tilt winter-ward, make your move.
When nighttime temperatures start to dip into the 50s and that fall feeling sets in (think: shorter days, cool nights, quicker sunsets, later sunrises) it’s time to move pots inside.
Before you get cozy, however, you should always check for pests that could be a menace to your permanent houseplant community.
Give your outdoor plants a quick end-of-season physical.
If you spy any critters hiding, treat with a simple insecticide like Bonide brand insect-killing soap or, if the infestation is mild, you could try a rinse with the garden hose.
A mix low in organic matter and high in material that allows the soil to drain quickly, such as sand, grit, or perlite, is ideal for these plants.
Remove any dead leaves or debris, too.
Sun and Heat
Succulents come from brightly lit environments, whether that be the craggy cliffs of a sweltering desert or the bald face of a windswept mountain. In short, they are not shade plants.
When moving your light-lovers indoors, make sure to place them in areas with as much sun exposure as possible.
Sunrooms, bay windows, and south-facing ledges are all good choices. Make sure your chosen perch is draft-free.
If you don’t have quite enough solar power within your home, many plant aficionados invest in grow lamps to get them through the darker parts of the year. These can utilize simple yet powerful fluorescent or LED bulbs. They even come in a range of funky colors.
Red typically promotes flowering, while blue stimulates growth. In the growing season you can get down and disco and experiment with different colors, but for wintertime, yellow and white lights are most appropriate.
But remember, you don’t necessarily want to keep your plants trucking in summer grow-mode.
The decrease in sunlight and temperature prepares all green and growing things for a period of rest known as dormancy. It’s actually what they need to get ready to flower and flourish next year.
Keep nighttime temperatures cool – about 50°F is ideal, but be sure to go no higher than where you normally set your thermostat for your own comfort, and pay attention to how much you water. More on that below.
Water: Less Is More
To nudge your new house guests into dormancy, start to water them less frequently as soon as they’re indoors. Instead of thoroughly drenching the soil once a week, water deeply once a month, maybe even less often.
With less rapid uptake of both nutrients and water, succulents tend to get soggy and decay if they’re overwatered. Look for yellowing leaves as an early sign of root rot.
The golden rule of watering most kinds of plants – and definitely succulents – is to perform the finger stick test: press your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle.
If it is dry, water deeply until water runs out of the bottom of the pot. If it’s still moist, wait a little longer.
The aim of winter watering for succulents is the prevention of shriveling and leaf drop. This may take a time or two to learn and will vary from plant to plant.
Food: Is it Necessary?
Succulents are a hardy bunch and rarely need feeding except under a few specific circumstances.
If they’re root bound, stuck in the same pot year after year, or have just been through a period of prolific growth, give them a dose of succulent fertilizer, or a dilute feeding of a standard fertilizer with an equal balance of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (NPK).
As a general rule, houseplants do not need feeding during winter.
Fertilize once spring is well on its way and you’re ready to encourage new growth, which will be supported by increased sunlight.
Early-season feeding before your plants are receiving at least a full eight hours of direct sunlight again will encourage weedy, stringy growth.
Pest and Disease Control
With decreased air circulation, lower temperatures, and all-around less vigorous growth, plants become more susceptible to pests and disease.
Checking your pots prior to moving them indoors and switching out the soil will drastically lower the chances of marauding bugs attacking your plants, but even with the best intentions, things can go awry.
Many indoor pest problems can be fixed by addressing the root, no pun intended, of the problem.
Increased spacing between plants, lower humidity, and less erratic temperature fluctuations help prevent insect infestations and generally keep your potted photosynthesizers happier.
Once a week, perform a health inspection to make sure you catch infestations and diseases in their early, and often fixable stages.
Yellowing leaves, discolored blotches, soft tissue, cobwebbing, and of course, uninvited insects, are all signs your plant may need some doctoring.
Scale and mealybugs can cause problems for indoor dwellers, too, but it’s nothing a little hand-picking or some leaf cleaning with rubbing alcohol can’t fix if caught early enough.
Winter Wonderland
In short, winter doesn’t have to put the kibosh on that generous green feeling summer is full of.
With a little careful watching, and some tender love and care, even the most dedicated sunlovers can thrive indoors.
But remember, even though you feel passionate about your succulents, extra cherishing is not what they need. Less water, and less heat, is what they require for healthy winter living.
How do you manage your succulents in winter? Let us know in the comments section below!
When you’re ready to expand your collection of succulents, read more about everything from which species to select to how to establish them outdoors, and beyond. Now go! Get growing!
In this guide, we’ll tackle the best techniques for overwintering your plants. Read on to find out more.
Winter is coming… As indefatigable as a horde of undead zombies barreling towards your garden – “Game of Thrones,” anyone? – in almost every part of the world, the long, cold winter is an inescapable fact.
And although your potted plants can be easily whisked away to the warmth of the house, that doesn’t mean they’re impervious to the seasonal changes happening outdoors.
As winter approaches, not only does the amount of sunlight reaching the earth decrease, but the intensity of it lessens, too.
The air cools, the nights lengthen, and, accordingly, plant growth slows down.
What Does Winter Do to a Succulent?
As plants receive these climatic cues from the outdoors they enter a period of dormancy, or decreased growth if the winter period is not very severe.
Less sunlight means less photosynthesis, but it also means less heat, which is an important ingredient in plant growth. In short, plants need the sun and its warmth to grow, flower, set seed, and prosper.
Succulents are lovers of sun and heat. Although some are miraculously adapted for cold weather with a coat of thick hairs or tough exterior skin, none of them like the dull, gloomy winter days that often characterize winter in the Northern Hemisphere.
When sunlight decreases, succulents can actually start to shed leaves or become etiolated – a fancy word which means long and stringy and skinny.
Insufficient light can eventually kill a succulent, especially if it’s suddenly brought from the warm and sunny, summery outdoors to shaded, more moderate temperatures indoors.
Read on to find out how to manage this seasonal transition and steward your succulents through the chilliest months of the year, and back into sunlit summer days.
Inside or Out?
The decision to move plants indoors is easily made based on your USDA Hardiness Zone.
If you’re Zone 6 or under, you have serious winters to contend with and should definitely shift all succulents, with a few exceptions, inside.
If you’re Zone 7 and up, find out what the minimum Hardiness Zone is for your specific species and variety.
Some, such as the euphorbias, will withstand winter weather just fine. The sedums, popular and widespread garden perennials, are hardy to Zone 3, for example.
A few succulents may be borderline hardy, or prone to windburn. These more sensitive species will benefit from protection such as horticultural fleece, or garden fabric, during winter.
Just as we mulch perennials in the fall, a layer of grit or gravel will help ensure good drainage around outdoor succulents and provide some insulation for the soil, so pile on an extra half an inch.
Moving Indoors
Once the weather begins to tilt winter-ward, make your move.
When nighttime temperatures start to dip into the 50s and that fall feeling sets in (think: shorter days, cool nights, quicker sunsets, later sunrises) it’s time to move pots inside.
Before you get cozy, however, you should always check for pests that could be a menace to your permanent houseplant community.
Give your outdoor plants a quick end-of-season physical.
If you spy any critters hiding, treat with a simple insecticide like Bonide brand insect-killing soap or, if the infestation is mild, you could try a rinse with the garden hose.
A mix low in organic matter and high in material that allows the soil to drain quickly, such as sand, grit, or perlite, is ideal for these plants.
Remove any dead leaves or debris, too.
Sun and Heat
Succulents come from brightly lit environments, whether that be the craggy cliffs of a sweltering desert or the bald face of a windswept mountain. In short, they are not shade plants.
When moving your light-lovers indoors, make sure to place them in areas with as much sun exposure as possible.
Sunrooms, bay windows, and south-facing ledges are all good choices. Make sure your chosen perch is draft-free.
If you don’t have quite enough solar power within your home, many plant aficionados invest in grow lamps to get them through the darker parts of the year. These can utilize simple yet powerful fluorescent or LED bulbs. They even come in a range of funky colors.
Red typically promotes flowering, while blue stimulates growth. In the growing season you can get down and disco and experiment with different colors, but for wintertime, yellow and white lights are most appropriate.
But remember, you don’t necessarily want to keep your plants trucking in summer grow-mode.
The decrease in sunlight and temperature prepares all green and growing things for a period of rest known as dormancy. It’s actually what they need to get ready to flower and flourish next year.
Keep nighttime temperatures cool – about 50°F is ideal, but be sure to go no higher than where you normally set your thermostat for your own comfort, and pay attention to how much you water. More on that below.
Water: Less Is More
To nudge your new house guests into dormancy, start to water them less frequently as soon as they’re indoors. Instead of thoroughly drenching the soil once a week, water deeply once a month, maybe even less often.
With less rapid uptake of both nutrients and water, succulents tend to get soggy and decay if they’re overwatered. Look for yellowing leaves as an early sign of root rot.
The golden rule of watering most kinds of plants – and definitely succulents – is to perform the finger stick test: press your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle.
If it is dry, water deeply until water runs out of the bottom of the pot. If it’s still moist, wait a little longer.
The aim of winter watering for succulents is the prevention of shriveling and leaf drop. This may take a time or two to learn and will vary from plant to plant.
Food: Is it Necessary?
Succulents are a hardy bunch and rarely need feeding except under a few specific circumstances.
If they’re root bound, stuck in the same pot year after year, or have just been through a period of prolific growth, give them a dose of succulent fertilizer, or a dilute feeding of a standard fertilizer with an equal balance of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (NPK).
As a general rule, houseplants do not need feeding during winter.
Fertilize once spring is well on its way and you’re ready to encourage new growth, which will be supported by increased sunlight.
Early-season feeding before your plants are receiving at least a full eight hours of direct sunlight again will encourage weedy, stringy growth.
Pest and Disease Control
With decreased air circulation, lower temperatures, and all-around less vigorous growth, plants become more susceptible to pests and disease.
Checking your pots prior to moving them indoors and switching out the soil will drastically lower the chances of marauding bugs attacking your plants, but even with the best intentions, things can go awry.
Many indoor pest problems can be fixed by addressing the root, no pun intended, of the problem.
Increased spacing between plants, lower humidity, and less erratic temperature fluctuations help prevent insect infestations and generally keep your potted photosynthesizers happier.
Once a week, perform a health inspection to make sure you catch infestations and diseases in their early, and often fixable stages.
Yellowing leaves, discolored blotches, soft tissue, cobwebbing, and of course, uninvited insects, are all signs your plant may need some doctoring.
Scale and mealybugs can cause problems for indoor dwellers, too, but it’s nothing a little hand-picking or some leaf cleaning with rubbing alcohol can’t fix if caught early enough.
Winter Wonderland
In short, winter doesn’t have to put the kibosh on that generous green feeling summer is full of.
With a little careful watching, and some tender love and care, even the most dedicated sunlovers can thrive indoors.
But remember, even though you feel passionate about your succulents, extra cherishing is not what they need. Less water, and less heat, is what they require for healthy winter living.
How do you manage your succulents in winter? Let us know in the comments section below!
When you’re ready to expand your collection of succulents, read more about everything from which species to select to how to establish them outdoors, and beyond. Now go! Get growing!
The species Anemone hupehensis, or Japanese anemone, is comprise mostly of the late-flowering varieties that are native to subalpine grasslands and meadows in the high, open woodlands of China.
However, they have been bred in Japan for centuries and many of today’s popular cultivars originated there.
The species most commonly grown in home gardens is A. hupehensis, and a number of hybrids that are collectively known as as A. x hybrida
Other Japanese anemone species are A. tomentosa and A. vitifolia.
A. tomentosa is the hardiest species, thriving as far north as Zone 3. A. hupehensis is the most popular for breeding and is always used as one of the parent plants for hybrid stock.
Along with A. vitifolia, A. hupehensis and the hybrid cultivars are hardy to Zones 4 and 5.
Flowers are typically two- to three-inch blooms that perch atop long, sturdy stems. The shades of pink, purple, or white present a striking display – particularly when planted in large drifts.
Flowers may have single or double petals and sport a variety of looks:
There are ones that resemble poppies or large buttercups with wide, tipped petals.
Some have long, cupped petals and look a bit like the flowers of summer clematis.
And others have the look of shaggy dahlias with recurved petals.
The strong, branching stems have multiple buds and provide a long flowering period, typically starting around mid to late July and continuing into October and even November.
These perennials grow from wiry feeder roots and hard, short rhizomes, slowly forming clumps from underground runners into an attractive, tallish ground cover.
These plants are considered an invasive weed in Hawaii, as in ideal conditions, they can spread and crowd out other plants.
The foliage is understated, with simple or compound leaves that have clean or lightly notched margins and has a mounded growth habit.
There are other Anemone species that are spring flowering, such as A. blanda aka Grecian windflowers, which you can read more about in our guide.
A Note of Caution:
Japanese anemones are toxic when ingested, so keep them away from children and pets.
Propagation
Japanese anemones are best propagated by division, and root cuttings taken in early spring or early fall.
It is possible to start them from seed, but hybrids won’t grow true to the parent plant and they’re much slower to develop than cuttings.
To divide existing clumps, use a garden fork to carefully dig up the entire root system, digging about six inches out from the main stem.
Gently brush off any soil and carefully untangle the roots into two or three smaller clumps, ensuring each clump has its own rhizome and at least one viable stem.
Photo by Lorna Kring.
Trim the rhizome close to the crown, leaving two to three inches of root intact. Don’t discard the trimmed root pieces, as these will also produce new plants!
Replant the parent and divisions, spaced 24 inches apart.
Cut the remaining root sections into two- to three-inch long pieces.
Lay the cuttings horizontally in a tray of moist, gritty starter soil and cover them with half an inch of soil.
Cover the tray with a clear plastic lid or place it inside a lightly sealed plastic bag to help retain moisture. Place the flat on a sunny windowsill and new growth will emerge in a few weeks.
Transplant cuttings into larger pots, or out into the garden when all danger of frost has passed.
Alternatively, you may pick up potted plants or bare roots from your local nursery or online.
How to Grow Japanese Anemones
Japanese anemones thrive in part to full sun locations – the ideal spot receiving morning sun with afternoon shade, or dappled sunlight throughout the day.
However, both intense afternoon sun and heavy shade can inhibit flowering and should be avoided.
They require consistently moist soil, but can’t abide soggy conditions, particularly in winter, which causes root rot.
A loose-textured, well-draining soil enriched with organic matter such as aged compost or well-rotted manure is the preferred growing medium. And plants prefer a lightly acidic pH of 5.8 to 6.2.
Here’s how to plant them:
Dig an ample planting hole and add in a generous shovelful of compost, leafmold, or well-rotted manure.
Sprinkle in a tablespoon of bone meal, and mix it in with the compost.
If needed, mix in a shovelful of landscape sand or pea gravel to improve drainage.
Take the plants out of their containers and gently place them in the hole, then backfill with soil, gently firming the soil in place without packing it down. In the case of bare roots, you should ensure that the crown is at ground level.
Top with a two-inch layer of bark mulch or pea gravel to help maintain consistent moisture levels. But avoid crowding the crowns by leaving a two-inch easement around the stems.
Water gently.
Maintain even moisture, and don’t allow the soil to dry out or become waterlogged. If you are growing them in full sun, you’ll need to be more vigilant about watering.
These plants are light feeders but appreciate an application of fertilizer in early spring. Use organic compost or a balanced fertilizer.
Plants rarely require staking and if they do become a bit leggy it’s probably due to too much shade. Trim branches of nearby trees and shrubs to let in more light.
The tall, large-flowered cultivars appreciate protection from strong winds. If winds are problematic, plant them close to supporting structures like fences, foundations, sheds, stumps, retaining walls, and so on.
They can also be grown in containers, which can be helpful if you’re worried about them spreading. You’ll need a 12- to 14-inch wide container, at least ten inches deep to allow the root system to spread.
Make sure your chosen container has adequate drainage holes in the bottom. Use a well-draining potting mix, and remember to be more vigilant about watering, as containers dry out more quickly than soil in the garden.
Growing Tips
Grow in a part to full sun location, with some protection from wind.
Plant in organically rich, well-draining soil.
Maintain even moisture in the soil, but don’t allow it to become waterlogged.
Pruning and Maintenance
When they are established, these plants require very little maintenance.
Deadheading isn’t required, as it will not encourage more flowering, but spent blooms can be removed to tidy up the plants if you wish.
But if you do deadhead, you’ll miss the attractive seed heads which add winter interest, and provide a popular nesting material for hummingbirds and small songbirds – always welcome visitors to the garden!
Japanese anemones appreciate a deep snow cover to protect the roots from cold temperatures and drying winds. If you don’t have reliable winter snow, provide a thick, four-inch mulch for cold protection.
In early spring, clean plants by removing old stalks and leaves, and cut them back to two to four inches above soil level.
Remove any winter mulch and rake the ground lightly, removing any dead or decaying matter.
As mentioned, plants spread by underground runners but rarely need to be divided, unless you wish to propagate new plants.
Those grown in full sun may require division every three to five years while those in a part shade location can be divided every eight to 10 years.
‘Cinderella,’ an A. x hybrida cultivar, part of the Fantasy™ series, has tall, branching stems with princess-pink flowers and frilly yellow stamen that bloom from late summer into fall, with fluffy white seed heads that add delightful interest in the late season garden.
With stunning white flowers lightly tinged in pink and pretty, gold stamen, ‘Honorine Jobert’ (A. hupehensis) adds a stately presence to the late summer garden.
‘Honorine Jobert’ received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1993.
‘September Charm,’ A. x hybrida, is a vigorous grower with multitudes of shimmering, silvery pink flowers with a purple and rose reverse and a frothy, golden center.
This cultivar was a recipient of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 1993.
Flowers appear in midsummer and bloom into mid-autumn.
Plants grow 24 to 48 inches at maturity, and make an impressive display in cottage and cutting gardens, naturalized settings, or mass planted at the rear of beds, in borders, and large containers.
‘September Charm’ does best in evenly moist, well-draining soil in part sun and is hardy in Zones 4-8.
Japanese anemones are typically not bothered by too many pest and disease issues. Plants are deer and rabbit resistant, so these herbivores will tend to look elsewhere.
Garden raiders such as slugs and snails may like to munch on new growth.
Handpick and dispose of these pests. Then create an effective barrier with a three-inch-wide layer of abrasive materials such as diatomaceous earth, crushed eggshells, or crushed oyster shells.
Also, black blister beetles, caterpillars, and Japanese beetles can defoliate plants.
Handpick caterpillars and beetles – but remember to wear gloves in the case of blister beetles – and dispose of them. You can apply diatomaceous earth around plants to help prevent infestations.
Root rot can occur in waterlogged conditions, particularly during the winter months.
Best Uses for Japanese Anemone Flowers
With their lanky profile and large flowers, Japanese anemones make a good partner to mix in with shrub plantings such as azaleas, hydrangeas, and rhododendrons.
Is it possible to create food forests in small spaces?
I replied to this comment yesterday on the YouTube channel:Will a 50′ x 50′ space really be a “forest?”
Perhaps not, but it would sure be close.
Growing a Small Food Forest
You could fit about 8-16 small trees in that space, then put shrubs around them, then put herbs and ground covers in, and then – hey – that looks like a little forest!
The benefit of working over a small space is that it is much easier to focus on the soil. When you’re trying to improve a half-acre, your effort is spread over too much space. A smaller space is much easier to sheet-mulch, plant with cover crops, provide lots of mulch and amendments for, etc. It’s also easier to tend and water.
It would be worth drawing out a square of that size and filling it up with potential plants. I’m seeing multiple apples, hazelnuts, a Chinese chestnut, plum and peach and cherry, Nanking cherry bushes, blueberries, blackberries, currants, raspberry, Jerusalem artichokes, goumi berry, autumn olive, pawpaw… just mix in as many species as you can manage!
The South Florida Food Forest in its building stages
At this point, that space was planted with two citrus trees, a mango, two mulberry trees, grumichama, Surinam cherry, cassava, chaya, Indian curry tree, papaya and more. And it was just getting started.
Here is the same view in a more recent photo:
Now there is also a Jamaican cherry tree, sweet potatoes, star fruit, more bananas and plantains, and lots of tropical ground covers that sort of helped themselves to the gaps.
What possibilities there are in a small space!
Just be sure not to plant everything too close or else the space will become less productive. We once rented a house in the tropics where the front yard had been planted with fruit trees in a very tight spacing. Later, they grew tall and fought with each other, and many of the trees were barely productive – or didn’t produce at all – and the there wasn’t much light beneath them for even grass to thrive, let alone fruiting shrubs and perennial vegetables.
If you find yourself facing that sort of a situation, it make sense to bust out the chainsaw and let the light back in!
A small space food forest won’t allow you to grow gigantic nut trees or full-size specimens of many species, but it will give you many of the benefits of a larger system, including easy care, nutrient cycling, shade on the ground in the heat of summer, some temperature moderation during the cold days of winter, a no-till soil biome, long-term production, much fewer pest issues due to the mixture of species, etc.
A small food forest doesn’t have to be just a “well, we’re doing our best…” food forest. It could be a beautiful showpiece echoing the design inherent in nature and providing diverse yields for decades.
Caladiums are colorful, tropical foliage plants that grow as perennials in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11.
In colder areas, where the ground freezes, they are often grown as annuals.
They can be taken out of the ground in the fall, the corms stored during the winter months, and replanted the following spring.
In addition, folks in regions that are warm and frost-free, but very rainy in winter, often dig up and store caladiums to prevent them from rotting in perpetually wet ground.
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In this article, you’ll discover how to lift, cure, and store caladium corms for replanting the following spring.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
When the Time Is Right
Caladiums grow best in soil temperatures of at least 70°F. Their showy leaves sprout in spring and flourish through the summer. In fall, they start to fade and wither, going dormant over the winter months.
In warm regions where the soil temperature remains above 60°F year-round, you may be able to leave your plants in the ground. However, as mentioned, if your winters are especially wet, poor soil drainage may cause them to rot in the ground before the next spring.
In areas where the ground freezes, like my locale in the Northeast, you’ll want to take your plants out of the ground in fall, as the foliage starts to fade, when the soil temperature is around 60°F.
You can use a soil thermometer to check the ground temperature, or use weather forecasts and plant behavior as your guides.
When the daytime temperatures no longer climb out of the 70s, and nighttime temperatures drop to the 50s, and plants begin to droop and pale, it’s time to dig.
Remember, these are tropical plants. They are likely to survive temperatures as low as the 40s, but one freeze, and they’ve had it.
If you grow caladiums in containers instead of in the ground, you may bring your pots indoors when nighttime temperatures begin to dip below 60°F, where they may thrive as houseplants.
They require a period of dormancy over the winter months, so hold off on watering once they stop growing and winter dormancy begins. Resume watering when you see signs of spring growth.
You can learn more about growing caladiums indoors in this guide. (coming soon!)
How to Lift and Cure Caladium Corms
Caladiums grow in clusters of leafy petioles, or leafstalks that sprout from corms.
The roots are shallow, but you need to take care not to damage the corms when you dig them up.
To Lift Plants:
Use a garden claw or spade to loosen the soil six to eight inches wide around a cluster, and eight inches deep.
Grasp the leafstalks together like a bouquet, and carefully lift the ball of earth that contains the roots and corms from the ground.
To Cure Corms:
Use a garden hose on a gentle setting to wash away all of the soil that is clinging to the corms and roots. Alternatively, you can lay the lifted plant on newspaper in a cool, dry place until they are dry enough to gently brush off the clinging soil.
Inspect the corms and roots and cut off any dead, soft, or rotten spots. At this point, some people spray a sulfur-based fungicide, according to package instructions, on the corms to inhibit rotting during storage.
Place in a warm, dry location out of direct sunlight, where they can dry. This may take a week or more.
Winter Storage
After a week or so of curing, the corms should be dry enough to place in storage.
You’ll know they’re ready when all parts feel dry and the remaining foliage is withered, brown, and easy to pull away from the corm.
Drying times will vary. Don’t rush this stage, as corms that are not sufficiently dry are likely to rot during storage.
To Store Corms:
Remove all the foliage and trim off the roots so the corms are bare.
Place the corms at least one inch apart on a bed of dry potting medium like vermiculite, sphagnum peat moss, or sand.
At this point, some gardeners sprinkle powdered sulfur-based fungicide, according to package instructions, over the corms to inhibit spoilage over the winter.
Cover them with two to three inches of the same potting medium.
Store the containers in a cool, dry location out of direct sunlight, where they will not be disturbed, and temperatures don’t drop below 55 to 60°F.
If you are storing your corms in a shed or other location where digging and nibbling rodents may be a problem, tuck screening over and around your containers.
Keep the potting medium dry during winter storage.
Replanting
When all risk of frost has passed and the soil temperature is at least 70°F, you can plant your stored corms out in the garden.
Alternatively, start them indoors in early to mid-spring for planting out in early summer. Place the corms bud side up, in a container filled with well-draining potting medium.
Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and place it in a warm location (70°F) with indirect sunlight.
With ideal growing conditions, including part shade and organically-rich, well-draining soil with a temperature of 70°F or above, caladiums do very well.
And now that you know how to lift, cure, and store them in climates not conducive to wintering over, you can multiply your initial investment into years of colorful garden attractions.
Over time, you may find that your plants have sparse leaves and are not as vigorous as they once were. This is not unusual; it’s just the nature of the plant.
Do you grow caladiums? What are your favorite color combinations? What plants share the garden with these tropical lovelies? Let us know in the comments section below. And feel free to share a picture!
At that point, likely five or more years down the road, you may want to stop lifting and storing, and purchase new favorites to love.
And if you want to add more foliage plants to your garden, check out these guides next:
