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Is it possible to combat fungal infection in plants without chemicals? There are a few possibilities in this pursuit, and one of the best and most natural is Bacillus subtilis (aka hay or grass bacillus.)
This is a natural, soil-dwelling bacteria, and its spore can be found in soils in various environments worldwide.
By harnessing the power of B. subtilis, gardeners and farmers can easily control fungal, bacterial, and microbial threats and bring a wealth of benefits to their plants.
In this article, we’ll explain how B. subtilis fungicide can benefit your garden. Read on to learn more.
B. subtilis is a Gram-positive bacterium that has played a significant role in the history of fungicides.
The use of B. subtilis as a fungicide dates back several decades. Its first recorded use can be traced back to the 1940s.
In the early years, B. subtilis was mostly used in agricultural and horticultural practices to combat fungal diseases that affected crops and plants.
Farmers and gardeners recognized its potential as a natural and effective alternative to synthetic chemical fungicides.
Over time, research and advancements in biotechnology have further enhanced our understanding of B. subtilis and its antifungal properties, so today, we have many refined formulations and application methods from which to choose.
The various strains of B. subtilis produce over two dozen different types of antibiotics to protect plants. These antibiotics are of a special sort known as lipopeptides. In Latin, lipo means lipid or fat.
Peptide refers to amino acids that are linked together by peptide bonds. These short amino acid chains are protein-building blocks.
Lipopeptides often have antiviral, antimicrobial, and immunomodulatory abilities and are also effective in breaking down fungal growth.
These special antibiotics break down the membranes of fungal cells (which consist of lipids). This results in the death of the fungi, as explained in this video.
This beneficial bacterium produces many different antibiotic compounds (lipopeptides.) It can also form endospores and biofilms on the roots’ surfaces. This helps block fungal growth.
Interestingly, these activities are more powerful in wild strains of B. subtilis than in commercial or laboratory strains.
Simultaneously, the natural boost in the plants’ resistance helps it combat microbial infection, and this added strength also helps the plant resist fungal infestation.
Plant roots secrete various compounds and sugars that feed B. subtilis’ beneficial microbes.
The area around plant roots is very alluring to these little microscopic helpers, and so they naturally congregate and colonize there. This creates a symbiotic relationship in which all participants are nourished and protected.
This safe space around a plant’s roots is known as the rhizosphere, and the B. subtilis species that colonize plant roots belong to a bacteria group known as Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR).
PGPR works to form a protective biofilm on the roots of plants. The biofilm is made up of bacteria embedded within a matrix made up of chemicals produced by the bacterial cells. As such, they are perfectly positioned to keep threatening plant pathogens at bay.
This all-natural, eco-friendly fungicide and biopesticide not only helps farmers and gardeners battle fungal infections and some microbial pests, but it also helps stimulate growth in plants by producing and releasing natural substances such as:
B. subtilis can also work in concert with other beneficial flora, such as mycorrhizae. This type of beneficial fungus lives on the roots of plants and assists in nutrient absorption.
B. subtilis and one specific type of beneficial fungus, arbuscular mycorrhizae (AM), work together synergistically to help plants absorb nutrients such as phosphorus.
Using B. subtilis is beneficial to your yard, garden, and crops in multiple ways.
B. subtilis fungicide can be used to protect plants against many phytopathogenic attacks by working as a microbial pesticide in battling plant diseases and as a biofertilizer to enhance plant health, growth, and yield.
The bacterium nourishes growing plants to help them attain robust levels of growth and health and strong immune function.
It does this by converting difficult-to-absorb materials in the soil into substances that are easy for your plants to absorb and utilize.
Besides strengthening your plants’ immune system by delivering good nourishment, this bacterium also secretes active substances that awaken and activate the plants’ defense systems. This greatly increases your plants’ resistance and immunity against various pathogenic bacteria.
This living, all-natural, microscopic garden helper is always hard at work producing antibacterial substances (e.g., subtilin, antibacterial proteins, organic acids) and engaging in bacteriostatic activities.
These substances are very effective at preventing pathogenic bacteria from reproducing and growing. In fact, they can even destroy some negative bacteria and kill some pathogens.
For this reason, B. subtilis is an excellent preventative and treatment for fungal diseases such as gray mold, double rot, and root rot.
B. subtilis improves soil structure by decomposing residual pesticides in the soil, altering the structure of microbial soil flora, and regulating nutrients in the soil.
When you apply B. subtilis to your soil, it helps increase the amount of:
Incorporating these beneficial bacteria into your soil helps increase the amount of organic matter to produce the lighter, more breathable, well-draining soil that all plants love.
As B. subtilis colonizes your soil, it produces abundant amounts of organic acids and plant hormones that work together to create a balanced ecosystem that supports your plants in growing strong roots and developing robust metabolic systems.
Straw and other natural, organic materials decompose much more rapidly when you add B. subtilis during composting.
B. subtilis is a long-lasting solution to keeping your yard, garden, and crops free of pathogens and fungus. Because this rugged beneficial bacteria naturally colonizes your soil and can survive very harsh conditions (e.g., drought, heat, severe cold), you will not need to reapply it frequently.
When conditions are inhospitable (for bacteria and plants) B. subtilis may become dormant, but when the environment becomes habitable again, the spores will begin germinating again.
When the spores have germinated and grown into a full-blown beneficial bacterium, they are equipped with sensors that guide them to plants to get busy colonizing and producing hormones, antibiotics, and physical barriers against fungal and bacterial invaders.
B. subtilis bacteria can survive in the soil for extremely long periods. Thus established, some very effective strains colonize the roots of plants to keep plant pathogens under control.
Additionally, the bacterium works directly against other types of microbes by manufacturing various effective antibiotics against other bacteria and fungi.
Simultaneously, B. subtilis stimulates plants to develop robust natural defense mechanisms so that they can fight off microbial attacks.
Because B. subtilis delivers two-punch protection, it is widely recognized as a powerful form of biocontrol that inhibits multiple types of pathogens on many crops.
For this reason, a wide variety of products containing this powerful, natural antifungal are easy to find in yard, garden, and farm supply stores.
It’s always wise to seek out an established brand. You may find B. subtilis as a component of a wide variety of organic products, such as:
1. Biofungicides formulated to control fungal diseases such as damping off, gray mold, and powdery mildew.
2. Biopesticides formulated to control insect pests, such as mites, beetles, and caterpillars.
3. Soil probiotic amendments that are formulated to improve soil health, enhancing the availability of nutrients and promoting plant growth.
4. Seed treatments often contain B. subtilis to help promote germination and protect the seeds against soil-borne pathogens.
5. Plant growth promoters are designed to improve nutrient uptake, stimulate root development and enhance plant vigor. These may be available as soil drenches or foliar products.
It is difficult to recommend specific products as availability and effectiveness may vary from place to place.
There are so many strains of this beneficial bacteria it can be hard to know exactly what you need. Each strain behaves differently and may produce very different results.
To be sure of getting a strain (or combination of strains) that will be effective in your setting, check with your local agricultural extension and talk with local gardeners and farmers to determine the best products for use in your area.
Serenade was a very popular brand of B. subtilis fungicide containing the QST 713 strain, but it is currently out of production. Seek out other products that list B. subtilis as an ingredient on the label.
CEASE is another very popular version of this product. The concentrate is only available in large-size bottles. Be sure to follow packaging directions closely.
Incorporating this beneficial bacterium into your everyday natural gardening practices is generally a good idea.
Apply it as a soil drench or amendment, or foliar treatment immediately if you see signs of disease among your plants.
Generally speaking, once or twice weekly use is recommended as a fungal or bacterial treatment, but be sure to follow the packaging directions for the product you choose.
B. subtilis is an excellent, ongoing addition to any organic gardening plan or Integrated Pest Management (IPM) plan.
It can be used with any sort of natural pest management technique or product; however, because it is a living organism, large amounts of harsh chemicals, herbicides, pesticides, and poisons are likely to impact it negatively.
It should never be mixed with acid-containing products or with any sort of copper-based fungicide.
B. subtilis is generally considered safe and can be used in any growing setting on any type of plant.
It’s safe for use in organic food production, and it is effective against a wide variety of fungal infections, such as:
It’s also effective against several leaf spot diseases, including:
B. subtilis also controls several bacterial diseases, such as:
And the soil diseases:
This all-natural bacterium is safe for food crops and does not leave any toxic residue on plant leaves or flowers.
It poses no danger to beneficial insects and pollinators, such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Although B. subtilis is essentially non-toxic, prolonged exposure to it could be irritating. You should take normal precautions when applying this (or any) substance to your plants.
Wear gloves, eye protection, long sleeves, and pants. Avoid breathing the mist or dust arising from the application of the product. Wear a filtering respirator if you apply a large amount of B. subtilis.
Always read product labels carefully and follow instructions precisely. Remember that the label is the law when using any sort of fungicide or pesticide.
B. subtilis is a beneficial soil organism that can control both foliar and root pathogens by colonizing plant roots and directly engaging soil-borne pathogens while simultaneously providing systemic support to help plants naturally resist foliar pathogens.
Because B. subtilis can form spores, it provides long-lasting plant support in the soil.
Once the bacterium is established and colonized, you can expect them to continue reproducing and spreading throughout your healthy soil as long as you continue sound IPM or organic gardening practices.
The healthy conditions produced by a strong population of B. subtilis in the soil help plants of all sorts attain vibrant, robust growth.
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Gary Antosh
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Neem oil, derived from the fruit of the neem tree, is a popular organic insecticide used for skin and hair treatment and agricultural purposes.
It acts as a deterrent to fungal development and interferes with insect growth and reproduction due to its similarity to insect hormones.
While generally considered environmentally friendly, overuse can harm aquatic organisms and birds. Neem oil can be harmful to bees, affecting their feeding and reproduction.
To protect pollinators, it is recommended to use neem oil only indoors.
Creating an integrated pest management (IPM) approach comprising various alternative options and techniques is advisable for outdoor use.
In this article, we share a wide variety of safe, organic neem oil alternatives and pest management techniques to help you limit the damage done to your crops by pests. Read on to learn more.
Essential oils have three mechanisms of action that contribute to their effectiveness in eliminating pests, paralysis, suffocation, and repellency.
Essential oils are safer than neem oil for bees and other pollinators, but you should still use your spray early in the morning or at dusk when pollinators are absent.
Essential oils overstimulate the pests’ nervous system, causing disruption and paralysis. All oils, including essential oils, block the bugs’ spiracles (tiny openings insects use to breathe).
This blockage causes suffocation upon contact. Some essential oils (e.g., rosemary oil) smell good to people but act as a strong repellent for insects. Bugs coming near these oils simply flee.
In fact, you can create a milder pest-repellent essential oil spray using only water and essential oils.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle and shake the bottle well to ensure proper mixing.
You can spray This versatile mixture around your yard, garden, or home. It is not a long-lasting spray, but it can be helpful to keep flying pests away while you are working or relaxing in an area.
You can spray this on plants, natural surfaces, and your clothing to help repel bugs.
Tip: Be sure your spray bottle is glass or very high-quality, durable plastic. Essential oils can damage soft plastic. Avoid storing this spray for a long period of time in a plastic bottle.
Avoid using chemical pesticides, even those labeled “natural,” like Neem oil, pyrethrum, and rotenone. You can choose from natural toxins, essential oil combinations, and more.
It is safe to use these alternatives in conjunction with each other for a complete IPM strategy.
1. Choose Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) toxin for caterpillar control. This naturally occurring substance is derived from the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis.
It is commonly used as a biological pesticide to control caterpillar infestations in gardens, farms, and other agricultural settings.
Bt toxin specifically targets caterpillars, which are the larval stage of moths and butterflies. It is harmless to humans, pets, and beneficial insects; although it can be harmful to butterfly caterpillars, so you must not use it in your butterfly or pollinator garden.
To use Bt toxin for pest caterpillar control, mix the recommended amount of the toxin with water according to the instructions on the product label.
Spray the mixture early in the season, just before caterpillars appear or very soon after that.
It is most effective on very young caterpillars. Hungry, emerging caterpillars will consume the toxin as they feed on the treated plants and will die in a few days.
2. Bacillus subtilis is a safe alternative to Neem oil for fungal control. This naturally occurring beneficial bacterium is effective in controlling fungal diseases in plants.
Bacillus subtilis works by colonizing the plant’s surface and producing compounds that inhibit the growth and development of various pathogenic fungi.
This product may be used as a spray or drench to control fungal growth. Follow the packaging instructions closely.
3. Baking Soda makes another appearance for pest control.
All-Purpose Baking Soda Bug Spray for Plants
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In a mixing bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of oil soap, 2 tablespoons of canola oil, and 3 tablespoons of baking soda. Use a stirring utensil to thoroughly mix the ingredients.
Fill a bucket with 2 gallons of water. Slowly pour the mixture from step 1 into the bucket of water.
Add 2 tablespoons of vinegar to the bucket. Stir the mixture for several seconds. Adding vinegar last helps prevent the solution from bubbling over.
Transfer the mixture from the bucket into a handheld sprayer.
To use the bug spray, mist the underside and top of plant leaves once a week. Ensure that the spray reaches all parts of the plant.
This bug spray can help control various bugs, including sap-sucking insects.
Note: Shake the sprayer occasionally to keep the solution well-mixed. Store any leftover bug spray in a labeled container in a cool, dry place.
4. You can create homemade insecticidal soap spray, which you can spray directly on affected foliage. Like Neem oil, you should avoid application during the day’s heat.
Oil Spray Concentrate Recipe:
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients in a jar with a tightly fitting lid. Store this concentrate in a cool, dark place.
To apply, combine 2 teaspoons of the concentrate with 1 quart of water in a spray bottle, and shake the mixture well.
This oil spray is effective against aphids, mites, thrips, and other pests. Of course, it will also smother beneficial insects, so spray carefully.
Spray the mixture directly on affected plants during the cooler parts of the day when the sun is not too harsh.
5. Superpower your pest spray with essential oils. To enhance the effectiveness of your homemade spray, you can incorporate essential oils.
Peppermint, clove, and rosemary oils are excellent alternatives to neem oil. Farmers have used these oils for centuries due to their natural pest-repelling properties.
Combining these oils with the soap and emulsifier in the simple homemade concentrate gives you a powerful tool that immobilizes, suffocates, and repels soft-bodied insects like spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies.
6. If you don’t like the idea of using oils, you can create a simple insecticidal soap spray.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix 1 ½ teaspoons of mild liquid soap with 1 quart of water.
Spray the mixture directly on infested plants. Apply the spray early in the morning or evening, avoiding the day’s heat.
Homemade insecticidal soap is an environmentally friendly solution that eliminates small, soft-bodied insects like aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, and mealybugs.
It can be used on houseplants and outdoor plants, including vegetables. Unlike neem oil and commercial pesticides, insecticidal soaps leave no residue, are non-toxic to animals and birds, and do not harm beneficial insects.
7. For hornets and wasps, you can very easily create a soap spray with peppermint or tea tree essential oil.
Peppermint or Tea Tree Oil Castile Soap Spray
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Add one cup of tea tree oil or peppermint liquid castile soap to a hose-end sprayer. Attach the sprayer to a hose.
While standing far-far away and very near to secure shelter (and perhaps wearing a bee-keepers suit), spray the mixture directly at the wasp or hornet’s nest until it disintegrates or falls down.
It’s best to do this at night while the offenders are asleep. The soap suffocates the wasps or hornets, and the peppermint or tea tree scent prevents them from returning and rebuilding nests.
Before using any homemade mix, test it on a small portion of the plant to ensure it won’t harm the entire plant.
Avoid using bleach-based soaps or detergents, as they can harm plants. Never apply a home mixture to plants on hot or sunny days because this can cause plant burn and damage.
In addition to alternative natural sprays, it is important to incorporate other natural pest control tactics, techniques, and products into your IPM plan.
1. Maintaining a healthy garden is essential, as pests are naturally inclined to target weak or dying plants. When you give your plants the right fertilizer, trace elements, growing conditions, good soil, and proper watering, your strong, healthy plants are less likely to be attacked by insect pests.
2. It is important to grow crops at the right time. When you plant vegetables out of season or beyond their suitable range, you will likely get poor growth and increased pest problems.
3. Harvest early to help prevent pest damage. Many pests prefer ripe fruits. You can allow crops to ripen safely in a protected area when you pick crops before they fully ripen.
4. Over-planting can be a useful strategy. By following the law of averages and growing more, you can reduce the impact of pest damage. When you have an abundance of fruits and veggies, you’ll have plenty for yourself and visiting animals.
5. Along the same lines, cultivating sacrificial plants or crops can help divert pests away from your main crops. By intentionally allowing one plant or group of plants to become infested, you can redirect pests’ attention from the rest of the garden.
6. Manual pest removal is an effective method. Taking the time to remove pests by hand helps reduce their population growth in the garden. It’s a simple task that can make a significant difference.
7. Keep poultry! Ducks and chickens are valuable for pest control around the property or home garden. Chickens are effective at preparing garden beds for the next season, but they can be destructive, so limiting their access to the vegetable garden during growth is advisable.
Chickens help break the life cycle of pests by digging up and consuming pupating insects, like fruit fly larvae.
Ducks, on the other hand, target stink bugs and their nymphs, as well as slugs and snails. Their foraging behavior is less damaging to gardens compared to chickens.
Embrace the assistance of beneficial garden fauna. Beneficial insects play a crucial role in maintaining a healthy backyard ecosystem.
Of the numerous insects found in the average backyard, only about a tenth are destructive. The rest are either harmless or beneficial.
Working in harmony with nature’s allies, you can collectively combat pests. If you don’t already have a healthy beneficial insect population, you can buy beneficial insects online.
Examples include predatory mites that feed on harmful mites, ladybugs that consume aphids, or miniature wasps that prey on caterpillars.
Releasing these good bugs into your garden can help restore nature’s balance without using indiscriminate and harmful chemicals.
Beneficial insects can be grouped into three main categories:
Bees, butterflies, flies, and moths are essential for pollinating the flowers in your garden, ensuring the production of fruits and seeds.
Insects like ladybugs, praying mantis, and green lacewing larvae act as predators, feeding on harmful pests and helping to control their population.
Parasitic wasps are a key example of this category. They lay their eggs on or inside other insects, such as bad bugs, and when the eggs hatch, the larvae feed on the host insects, effectively controlling their numbers.
Some of the best beneficial insects to purchase or attract include:
Time Lapse of Ladybug Life Cycle
Spiders: Your Friend & Helper In The Garden!
In addition to (or instead of) purchasing beneficial insects, you can take steps to invite garden helpers into your yard. To do this, you must meet their basic water, food, and shelter needs.
Begin by embracing diversity in your garden. Growing a variety of plants and produce instead of a monoculture helps deter pests.
Nature tends to balance imbalances by countering them, and having a diverse habitat with different crops and plants reduces the risk of pests invading in overwhelming numbers.
Include native plants to attract beneficial insects and animals. By incorporating native flora and fauna into your garden, you encourage the presence of helpful bugs, predator insects, reptiles, and birds.
Creating a natural habitat on your property promotes a balanced and harmonious environment.
A diverse range of plants attracts beneficial insects, including those before pests. These insects require alternative food sources like pollen and nectar to stay in your garden.
In spring, early-blooming plants like alyssum or blooming biennials such as carrots or parsley attract beneficial insects.
Later on, plants with compound blossoms like yarrow, goldenrod, and Queen Anne’s lace, as well as flowering herbs such as lavender, mint, sage, dill, fennel, and lemon balm, are particularly enticing to them.
Just as some plants attract good bugs, some plants repel bad bugs.
When using companion planting, it is beneficial to scatter strong-smelling herbs throughout your regular flower and vegetable patches and in the orchard. This technique helps repel pests effectively.
Here are some examples of herbs and the pests they repel:
It’s worth noting that catnip repels ants, weevils, squash bugs, aphids, beetles, and cockroaches; however, it attracts cats! If this would be a concern for you, refrain from planting it.
There are a number of ways you can simply keep pests from being able to access your plants.
Among them are:
1. Apply a ring of Vaseline at the plant’s base to hinder ants from climbing up for the purpose of farming aphids or scale insects. Without any protection, these pests will struggle to survive.
2. Use nets and bags to protect against birds, small animals, and pests effectively. Insect netting safeguards crops and prevents fruit flies from infesting stone fruits and apples.
3. Use natural powders, such as food-grade diatomaceous earth, baking soda, and crushed eggshells, to combat crawling insects like snails and slugs. Apply the powder to the ground surrounding plants or directly on affected leaves.
4. Sprinkle baking soda throughout your garden and flowerbeds for ant control.
When it comes to controlling garden pests, integrated pest management (IPM) that incorporates a wide variety of safe, non-toxic methods is always best.
If you are concerned about neem oil use but need to take more drastic pest management measures, you can do so naturally without turning to harsh chemicals.
Keep the tips and advice presented here in mind. Try these effective alternatives to neem oil and pesticides to discourage and deter pests without negatively affecting our health or the environment.
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Gary Antosh
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But before making your selection, it might also help to acquaint yourself with a few of the terms used by cultivators of edible fungi:
Flush refers to a crop of harvestable mushrooms. After a first crop, many fruiting blocks and logs will produce a second and sometimes even a third flush.
Fruiting is the term used for blocks or logs that are currently producing mushrooms.
Fruiting block is the inoculated block of pasteurized substrate. The substrate is usually made of sawdust or grain, inoculated with mycelium, and contained within a plastic bag.
Mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of some species of fungi. Not all types of fungi produce them. Think of them as something akin to apricots on a tree.
Just like those delicious stone fruits, the mushroom isn’t the whole organism, it’s just the fruiting body. This is the part we are cultivating to indulge our culinary enjoyment.
Mycelium are the root-like structures of fungi. Mushroom growing kits come inoculated with mycelium.
Pinning is what happens when the mycelium begins to form tiny mushrooms, referred to as “pins.” Pinning is the beginning stage of fruiting.
Spawn is a pasteurized substrate inoculated with mycelium.
Now that you’ve got the lingo down, know what to expect from both blocks and logs, and are prepared to read the instructions to provide the right conditions for your crop, you should be ready to peruse this selection of some of our favorite mushroom growing kits!
This first pick is one you are unlikely to be familiar with, but it may be of interest if you’re keen on the idea of producing your own natural medicines.
Reishi mushrooms (Ganoderma spp.) are fungi used primarily for medicinal purposes.
Their brown and orange fruiting bodies contain antioxidant and bioactive compounds, and can be used to make teas, tinctures, or powdered supplements.
While reishis naturally take on a fan-like shape, when cultivated in closed conditions the buildup of carbon dioxide causes narrow, antler-like fruiting forms to develop rather than fans.
Why bother cultivating them in this way? Antler reishis may exhibit even more powerful medicinal compounds than their fan-shaped counterparts.
Antler reishis have a bitter flavor and a texture much like tree bark, so this is not the type of ‘shroom you’ll want to add to a stir-fry. However, they do make a lovely coffee substitute, providing an earthy, bitter flavor to help start the day.
Root Mushroom Farm offers an antler reishi kit that includes spawn along with a humidity tent, spray bottle, and instructions.
Root Mushroom Farm Antler Reishi Kit
To produce the antler shapes, these fungi require high humidity and carbon dioxide, so they are grown in a closed container.
This beginner-friendly option will start to fruit in approximately 10 days and will produce a single harvest in one to two months.
Ready to add the ability to grow antler reishis to your medicinal plant cultivation skills list?
You can buy antler reishi mushroom growing kits from the Root Mushroom Farm Store via Amazon.
Looking for a fun fungi staple to grow in your kitchen? Blue oysters (Pleurotus ostreatus var. columbinus) are a great all-purpose culinary mushroom.
There are many different subspecies, varieties, and strains of P. ostreatus, commonly known as “oyster mushrooms,” and you’ll discover several of them in this roundup. This first selection of Pleurotus comes with a distinctive coloration.
These fungi fruit in clusters of fan-shaped caps that take on a brighter shade of blue when exposed to more sunlight.
These fungi are rich and slightly sweet in flavor. Blue oyster stems are not very tender, so they are usually discarded, but their caps are quite meaty in texture.
For those interested in cultivating these colorful champignons, North Spore provides a certified organic Blue Oyster Spray and Grow Kit.
This option contains a sawdust block colonized with mycelium, a spray bottle, and instructions.
North Spore Blue Oyster Spray and Grow
Blue oysters are very easy to grow and make a great choice for beginners. Fruiting begins within two weeks, with a crop ready to harvest two to five days after that.
A first flush is guaranteed by North Spore, but indoor gardeners should expect multiple flushes from the fruiting block – at least two or three.
You can find North Spore’s certified organic Blue Oyster Mushroom Spray and Grow Kit available for purchase via Terrain.
For true fungi aficionados, one simply can’t get enough oysters.
Some folks call certain strains of Pleurotus ostreatus “brown oysters” while others reserve that name for another species within the same genus, P. pulmonarius.
Forest Origins offers a brown oyster mushroom growing kit that is a strain of P. pulmonarius known as ‘Sonoma Brown.’
These brown oysters have light brown caps with wavy margins. Cooked, they have a velvety and smooth texture and a meaty flavor.
The Forest Origins kit comes with an inoculated block, a spray mister, and instructions – as well as a second white oyster block!
Forest Origins Brown and White Oyster Kit
Great for beginners, these fungi are ready to harvest in one to two weeks.
Forest Origins guarantees their blocks will fruit at least once, but they should produce a second flush as well.
You can buy this set of Brown and White Oyster Growing Kits from the Forest Origins Store via Amazon.
Pleurotus varieties are frequently found for indoor cultivation, but this next type of fungus is harder to source in an indoor growing kit.
Chestnut mushrooms (Pholiota adiposa) are scrumptious as a culinary ingredient.
Also known as “fat pholiota” or “scaly cap,” these fungi are mild, rich, and nutty in flavor with a peppery aftertaste.
While the caps have a silky texture, the stems have a crunchy bite, similar to steamed asparagus.
Chestnut mushrooms fruit in clusters of toadstool-shaped fruits, whose caps are tan, brown, or brick-red in hue. The caps feature brown scales that are sometimes speckled with white.
Baltispore offers a Chestnut Mushroom Kit that includes an inoculated substrate, a spray bottle, and comprehensive, step-by-step instructions.
Baltispore Chestnut Mushroom Kit
This option is beginner friendly, and is likely to produce up to two flushes, with the first delicious crop ready to harvest in approximately 10 days.
Guaranteed to produce a first flush, you can buy a Baltispore Chestnut Mushroom Growing Kit via Gardener’s Supply.
If you’ve cultivated Pleurotus before and are looking for something really unusual to fulfill your fungi fancy, you’ll want to check out this next option.
Also known as “scarlet club mushrooms,” cordyceps (Cordyceps militaris) are dual purpose fungi – they are both tasty to eat and packed with medicinal benefits.
The fruits of cordyceps are long, thin, club-shaped, and orange colored. As a food, these add an earthy, umami flavor to meals, while imparting anti-inflammatory benefits as well as other therapeutic properties.
If you’ve dipped into the fascinating world of mycology before, you may be familiar with these fungi because of the startling fact that they parasitize insects.
This might sound a bit ominous, but when home grown, they can be cultivated on a substrate of grain instead of bugs.
Root Mushroom Farm offers a Cordyceps Militaris Growing Kit. It includes a lidded plastic container with a rice substrate, a syringe for inoculating, and instructions.
Root Mushroom Farm Cordyceps Militaris Kit
This selection is easy enough to use to make it suitable for beginners, and it produces a harvest in 50 to 55 days.
Expect just one flush from this block with fruiting guaranteed by the seller.
You can buy the Cordyceps Militaris Growing Kit from the Root Mushroom Farm Store via Amazon.
Looking for fungi fit for royalty? Here’s one that would capture the eye of King Midas.
Golden oysters (Pleurotus citrinopileatus) have a delicate, nutty, and sweet flavor, with a chewy, meaty texture.
Also known as “yellow oysters,” these Pleurotus fungi grow in clusters and their caps have a lovely golden to bright yellow hue.
North Spore provides a certified organic Golden Oyster Spray and Grow Kit that includes an inoculated sawdust block, a spray bottle, and complete instructions.
North Spore Golden Oyster Spray and Grow Kit
Cultivating golden oysters is easy for beginners – this block provides a first harvest in two weeks and can easily produce a second flush as well.
Guaranteed to produce, the certified organic North Spore Golden Oyster kit is available via Terrain.
This next selection will herald fungi worthy of a feast.
King trumpets (Pleurotus eryngii) are related to the other oysters we’ve seen here, but these have tan to brown caps and – here’s the big difference – massively thick stems that are tender and succulent when cooked.
Also called “king oysters,” these fungi have a toothsome, meaty texture, and a flavor that makes a good vegan substitute for crab, lobster, or scallops.
Root Mushroom Farm offers an option to cultivate these ‘shrooms that includes a fruiting block, a humidity tent, a spray bottle, and instructions.
Because these fungi require a cooler than average temperature of 50 to 65°F, these are considered best for intermediate growers.
Root Mushroom Farm King Trumpet Kit
Expect one to two crops from your fruiting block, with the first flush ready to harvest in two to three weeks.
You can buy a King Oyster Trumpet Growing Kit from the Root Mushroom Farm Store via Amazon.
Not all edible fungi have the typical toadstool-like cap and stem shape, and lion’s mane (Hericium erinaceus) is one of those outliers.
Also known as “satyr’s beard,” “bearded tooth,” or “pom-pom” mushrooms, this is not your standard button type – these fungi reach baseball or softball size and look like clusters of shaggy puffballs.
Sometimes referred to as “lions mane” without the apostrophe, these funky-looking fungi are tender, with a crab-like flavor and texture.
Baltispore offers a Lion’s Mane Mushroom Grow Kit that comes with a fruiting block, spray bottle, and complete instructions.
Baltispore Lion’s Mane Mushroom Growing Kit
Some consider lion’s mane one of the easiest mushrooms to cultivate, so don’t assume that the unusual appearance of these fungi means they are only for advanced growers!
Expect these blocks to produce a harvest in two weeks.
This selection is guaranteed by Baltispore to produce a first flush. You will likely be able to get a second flush from this block, and maybe a third as well.
You can purchase Lion’s Mane Mushroom Growing Kits from Baltispore via Gardener’s Supply.
If you’re new to cultivating edible fungi, you might want to start with a petite package inoculated with a beginner-friendly strain, as is offered in this next selection.
Similar in shape to the other Pleurotus varieties encountered here, pearl oysters, a strain of Pleurotus ostreatus, are produced in clusters of fan-shaped caps and are champagne-colored.
These thick-capped fungi have a slightly sweet, nutty flavor, and a chewy texture.
Back to the Roots offers a pear oyster mini mushroom growing kit. This smaller option, ready to grow out of the box, includes everything you’ll need: the spawn, a spray bottle, and instructions.
Back to the Roots Organic Mini Mushroom Growing Kit
You can expect a harvest of pearl oysters in 10 days.
Back to the Roots selections are beginner-friendly and guaranteed to produce at least one flush, but may produce a second crop as well.
Looking for a smaller option to give fungi cultivation a try? You’ll find this mini mushroom growing kit available from the Back to the Roots Store via Amazon.
While cultivating fungi in spawn bags is the most common way for indoor gardeners to produce Pleurotus indoors, logs are also an option, and you might like to try these logs inoculated with phoenix oyster mycelium.
Phoenix oysters (Pleurotus pulmonarius) have a rich and meaty flavor, and a smooth, velvety texture.
Also known as “Indian oysters,” “Italian oysters,” or “lung oysters,” the caps of these fungi have margins that are either rolled under slightly or rather frilly, giving them a somewhat delicate appearance.
As noted, unlike the other options we have seen so far in our selection, this one produces its fungal crop on a log instead of a block of substrate.
2FunGuys provides a 12-inch inoculated elm log that is plugged with mycelium, and ready to get started. Instructions are also included.
You’ll need to supply your own spray bottle and a plastic bag for tenting.
2FunGuys Phoenix Oyster Mushroom Log
Inoculated logs are longer lasting than substrate blocks, but also a bit slower to get started.
The Phoenix Oyster Mushroom Log can take four to 12 months to produce a first flush, but it can continue to produce crops for three years.
You can buy 2FunGuys’ Phoenix Oyster Mushroom Logs via Terrain.
If you love all things pink, you can now coordinate your fungi food production with your rose, blush, or mauve decor.
Pink oysters (Pleurotus djamor) have wavy, thin caps and short or non-existent stems – and the real kicker, a gorgeous, pink hue. When cooked, they have a meaty flavor and chewy texture.
Forest Origins claims to be the first company offering pink Pleurotus for sale, and they have done so since 2017.
Their Pink Oyster Kit comes with a fruiting block, spray bottle, and instructions.
These Pleurotus mushrooms prefer warmer conditions between 70 and 80°F, so if you thought your home was too warm during the summer for growing edible fungi, this might be the type to try!
Forest Origins Pink Oyster Mushroom Growing Kit
These are fast to produce, with harvests that are ready in one to two weeks, and they’re great for beginner mycophiles.
Forest Origins guarantees a first crop, but you can expect two flushes from the block.
Get your own Pink Oyster Mushroom Growing Kit from the Forest Origins Store via Amazon.
Looking for a large, productive strain to feed your fungi craving? Consider these PoHu™ oysters.
PoHu™ is a strain of Pleurotus ostreatus known for its exceptionally large and prolific clusters of ‘shrooms that are parchment colored. PoHus have velvety, rounded caps that cook up to a delicious tender texture – stems and all! – with a rich, buttery flavor.
Hodgins Harvest sells an Extra Large Oyster Kit that’s inoculated with the PoHu™ strain.
Hodgins Harvest Extra Large Oyster Kit
This selection includes inoculated substrate, a misting bottle, illustrated instructions, and a humidity dome. An instructional video is also available.
This beginner-friendly option is guaranteed to produce a first flush or Hodgins Harvest will replace it for free. However, you can likely expect multiple flushes from this easy to use kit.
Ready to supersize your fungi harvest? Purchase Hodgins Harvest’s Extra Large Oyster Kit from Amazon.
Curious about using fungi as a functional food? Look no further than reishis.
Known for their immune-boosting properties, reishis (Ganoderma lucidum) have increased in popularity among practitioners of herbal medicine in recent years.
However, far from being newbies to the wellness domain, these fungi – also known as “linghzhi” – have historically been employed in both Japanese and Chinese traditional medicine.
Reishis are red and brown colored, and fruit in a fan-like shape often referred to as “conks.” These conks are tough and corky and have a strong, earthy, bitter taste.
Reishis can be consumed as a tea, powder, or tincture. I find their flavor perfect as a coffee replacement.
Gallboys sells a reishi growing kit that comes complete with instructions, a humidity tent, and inoculated substrate. You’ll need to provide your own mister bottle for watering.
These fungi can be cultivated by beginners, but indoor gardeners should be forewarned that they are slower growing than many of the other options presented here, requiring at least two months to mature to their conk shapes.
Expect a single flush from this block, which is guaranteed to produce a crop.
A reishi option is available from Gallboys Mushroom Kits via Amazon.
You may have heard that some gardeners produce tasty shiitake mushrooms in their backyards – but these can also be cultivated indoors!
Shiitakes (Lentinula edodes) are light to dark brown in color with umbrella-shaped caps, and have a delicious, meaty texture and flavor with a hint of smokiness. Their stems can be either tender or fibrous.
If you want to try this earthy and rich option, 2FunGuys offers pre-inoculated 12-inch logs that are ready to grow, either indoors or outdoors.
Hand-cut logs ranging from three to six inches in diameter are pre-drilled, filled with spores, and sealed with cheese wax so they’re ready to go.
All you need to do is select a location with indirect sunlight where you will place your log either on its side or upright, and follow the included instructions for soaking, chilling, and watering.
With high yields, this type is recommended for intermediate level growers.
And if a 10- to 12-week rest is allowed between each fruiting period, you can expect multiple harvests over the course of three years.
In addition to purchasing the kit, you’ll need to supply a large plastic bag to use as a tent, and your own spray bottle.
2Funguys 12″ Shiitake Mushroom Log
The amount of time required to produce a first flush varies depending on the date when each individual log was inoculated by 2FunGuys.
Logs must be fully colonized with mycelium before they can fruit, which can take four to 12 months. Once pins appear, harvest shiitakes in five to 10 days.
Find 2FunGuys’ 12-inch Shiitake Mushroom Log Kit available for purchase via Terrain.
So far we’ve encountered types of Pleurotus that are blue, golden, brown, and champagne colored – now here’s one that is snowy white.
A variety of Pleurotus ostreatus, snow oysters have a mild, earthy flavor and a chewy texture.
These fungi have white, umbrella-shaped caps whose shapes hold up well to cooking. They are at their best when cooked until all of the liquid they contain has evaporated.
Melk Carton Kid offers a small snow oyster kit that includes inoculated straw and recycled coffee grounds as a substrate.
Melk Carton Kid’s Snow Oyster Mushroom Kit
Simply open up the box, make a cut in the plastic, soak in water, spray daily, and watch as your edible fungi fruits. It will be ready to harvest in just one to two weeks!
Expect one to two flushes from this beginner-friendly ‘shroom.
Snow oyster kits are available from Melk Carton Kid via Amazon.
You may be familiar with reishis as a medicinal type of fungi, but have you gotten acquainted with another therapeutic shelf fungus, the turkey tail?
Also known as “cloud mushrooms” and “many-colored polypores,” turkey tails (Trametes versicolor) produce fan-like shelves with wavy margins and multicolored concentric coloration. Colors can include blue, red, green, white, gray, and brown.
Like reishis, turkey tails are a variety that you may want to cultivate more as a mycological medicine than a food. They possess immune-modulating and anti-cancer properties.
With an earthy, slightly bitter flavor, and a leathery texture, plan to either grind your turkey tails into a powder to use as a functional food or use the conks to prepare your own tinctures or teas.
The Root Mushroom Farm Store has a Turkey Tail Kit that includes a bag of spawn, a spray bottle, a humidity tent, and instructions.
Once you start the block, expect to start harvesting in approximately 10 days. You may get up to three flushes total from the fruiting block.
You can buy your own Turkey Tail Kit from the Root Mushroom Farm Store via Amazon.
When faced with so many excellent picks, it may be hard to choose just one option. In this case, why not choose to grow the rainbow?
3-Pack Bundle of North Spore Kits
This bundle from North Spore offers a colorful spectrum of options – blue, golden, and pink oysters.
Ready to purchase this three-pack of North Spore certified organic Spray and Grow Mushroom Kits? You’ll find it at Amazon.
Nothing could be better than harvesting your favorite variety of edible fungus nice and fresh, minutes before dinner is served.
That flavor will linger on your tongue and in your mind long after your meal is over.
We hope you’ll enjoy selecting and cultivating the perfect mushroom growing kit.
When you’ve made your choice, let us know about it in the comments section below. And if you have any great fungi-focused recipes, feel free to share them with our readers as well!
Looking for more inspiration for indoor gardening projects? You’ll find more reading right here:
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Kristina Hicks-Hamblin
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MAYBE SEVEN or eight years ago, in a conversation with Landscape Designer Claudia West, she said a sentence that has really stuck with me as she explained her approach to selecting and combining plants.
“Plants are the mulch,” Claudia said then about making immersive landscapes that engage humans as much as they do pollinators and other beneficial wildlife. So it’s tempting to choose the plants we buy for our gardens based on their looks alone.
Claudia and her colleague, Thomas Rainer, of Phyto Studio, who are co-authors of the groundbreaking 2015 book “Planting in a Post-Wild World” (affiliate link), have tougher criteria for which plants earn a spot in their designs. Claudia is here today to talk about how the Phyto Studio team figures out what makes the cut, and more.
Plus: Comment in the box near the bottom of the page for a chance to win a copy of “Planting in a Post-Wild World.”
Read along as you listen to the Aug. 21, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
Margaret Roach: We’ve been having fun talking lately because we just did a “New York Times” garden column together which got a very passionate response, which was wonderful. I was so happy to see that.
Claudia West: We were honored. Thank you.
Margaret: Oh, well, I always learn so much in our conversations; in my conversations with you and with Thomas. As I said, you brought up so many new things. Even though I know your work, I always hear new things. And so you talked about immersive landscapes, as I said in the introduction, and then versus under-vegetated plantings. So paint the picture of what you do and don’t want, immersive versus under-vegetated.
Claudia: That sounds great. I think maybe I’ll start by saying that it’s not new at all. I think every gardener for many, many generations has always intuitively known that more plants is always better. That weeds are really not a problem, they are a symptom of a much bigger problem. They usually point to the areas in a garden or a commercial landscape where we simply don’t have enough plants. Because many weeds, not all of them, but many love open soil, and mulch is considered open soil. So this is where they normally pop up because we’re leaving spaces for them. And open spaces, when you look at the natural world, they’re very rare. They’re usually limited to extreme environments or to areas that have recently been disturbed.
But as every gardener knows, plants quickly come back in and fill the gaps. And it’s really that simple, unbelievably powerful and an unchangeable principle of nature that gardeners as well as planting designers and plant managers have to accept. None of us is big enough to change that [laughter]. So the sooner we accept that and see our gardens and designs through that lens, the easier it’ll be or the sooner we will be able to break this vicious cycle of weeding, opening up more gaps, having to weed again, and doing this until it exhausts us.
And I’m a lazy gardener, and I know many of our clients are as well, so many of our projects and our work really aims to break this cycle and fill these gaps in designed or cultural plants communities with adaptable species, to just make the garden more beautiful, to make it less work, to add more biodiversity and more biomass there. So all of these good reasons, so it’s-
Margaret: And not fill it with lifeless mulch, as you…[laughter].
Claudia: Exactly, yes. Well, there are different types of mulch. And in Europe, for example, gravel mulches are very popular right now so there’s certainly a benefit to that. When you get into much more arid regions, it’s almost impossible to create the kind of lush groundcover that we have here on the East Coast and Central United States. So it’s very much a regional approach as well.
Margaret: Sure.
Claudia: But whenever you can, it can never hurt to plant more.
Margaret: I think it was Thomas who brought this up when we talked for the Times story, and he was saying we could flip our mindset, think almost the inverse of the way we usually do as we imagine the design of our landscapes. And he was saying visualize it as if it were 100 percent covered with plants, and then your job was carving out some mown spots to make a bed or some mown paths, in other words, but some moan paths through versus how we think now. Which is that it’s already all lawn and all paving, and we’re going to put these objects in at one little island bed over here and one little foundation bed over there, or a patio over there, all these objects as opposed to this big life-filled wall-to-wall life stuff of plants. And so it’s really a different way of thinking, I guess.
Claudia: Well, I think many designers, including us use this approach to creating immersive planting. Unfortunately, there’s a very strong industry, not just in the United States, but pretty much international, that benefits from selling mulch and a big show plants that usually are not designed or selected to last very long. So they are part of the reason why, especially here in the United States, planting is often limited to this little kidney-shaped thing that sits in this ocean of lawn, with lawn still being the default. And I kind of understand how homeowners could really struggle with this, because the way more traditional plantings are managed requires an enormous amount of money and resources, and yes, sometimes even herbicide application in the way this industry is often still trying to sell us good horticulture.
So I think when we’re asking our clients or even our own gardens to flip that, it requires a different approach to planting. Because if you approach planting in this traditional way, where you furnish a bed with plants like if they were art objects in space [laughter], you would never be able to manage your acre or however big that lawn area was in a traditional way as a garden. It’s just overwhelming.
So I think with this flipping comes the need to design plant things that require less human input, and that are more self-sustaining, and just don’t require that constant life support that many more traditional approaches of planting can require.
Margaret: I think on your website and when we’ve conversed, you’ve said that you seek to make landscapes that are both ecological and biophilic. Now tell us what biophilic designs are.
Claudia: Biophilia is, right now or has been for many years now, a common term, essentially describing this ancient relationship that people have with natural things including plants. And it simply points to the fact that nature is our home. This is where we all come from. No matter if we’ve lived in cities for the last couple of hundred years or not, this does not go away. And as a result of that evolutionary history in a natural environment, we respond well to things natural, especially to things green. And plants, for example, have an incredibly healing effect on our psyche and our physiology. And this has been proven with so many studies. I don’t think any of us can deny this anymore.
So in our work, we try to carve out as many opportunities as possible, even if it’s in a tiny urban project, to bring as much of these natural elements back into build environments where we live, work, relax, play. And many designers do that. We’re not alone. We’re part of this international army of folks who are trying to do this. And who are trying to do this in a meaningful way where plants are not just, like I said earlier, decorative objects and we would furnish a space, but where plants work together and together create a much more evocative, powerful experience, something that kind of reminds us of something that was and is long gone, fantasy of nature, fantasy of a meadow or deep forest. These things still resonates so deeply within us. And the more urban you get, the more people seem to have this longing towards these meaningful, deeply emotional interactions with planting.
And that’s exactly, I think, where opportunities lie, and especially in urban place-making, to create plantings that go under your skin and remind you of something much, much bigger.
Margaret: So immersive on many levels, immersive-
Claudia: That’s right.
Margaret: … on every level, not just visually and not just full of life, but drawing us in that profound, that intimate, core kind of way.
Claudia: That’s right. Exactly.
Margaret: So you’ve done private gardens and you’re doing something at the U.S. National Arboretum and you’re doing something at Penn State’s arboretum, a pollinator, a garden there and large and smaller projects and so forth. But to figure out your planting plans, what plants you’re going to use, it’s not just based on looks alone: “Oh, this is going to look great with this and then this is going to be pretty with that.” And so there’s a lot more and more over these recent years, more science and more research information, more data kind of goes into choices as well, doesn’t it?
Claudia: It does. And we’re lucky that we garden and design, planting and manage landscape now because we are building on many, many decades and many careers of all the people who came before us and have not only made it possible to purchase so many different plants that we can use in our gardens and projects. But they’ve also created scientific thinking models that can predict a little bit, not 100 percent, that never happens, but can help us predict how planting may react to make it just a tiny bit more stable and be able to allocate resources smartly towards the making and management of planting.
So it’s definitely part of my German upbringing and [having studied horticulture at the university in Weihenstephan, Germany] that the art of planting has always had a very scientific foundation under it for me. In all the challenges and design exercises, it’s not just about color and texture, it’s very much about putting the right kind of plant behaviors together, looking at longevity, how old plants get, some of them get as old as trees. Others, no matter how much you pamper them, will never get beyond Year 5. That is key. Understanding how social they are, how they interact with one another. And this may sound like we know all that, but I can guarantee and every gardener again knows this, it’s the most humbling profession in the world, and will always tell you how right or wrong we were.
It’s not something that the science alone can explain. A lot of it is going back to projects and staring at them to understand what they’re telling us, to learn lessons that you can’t read in a book, but you have to observe and open your mind to how plants work and their logic and their timescale, which is very different from human timescale and try to figure out things that could help us do better the next time. So this attitude and constant thirst for getting “into their heads” and understanding more about that. I think that’s what drives us, and it keeps us moving, and looking for people all over the world who are working on the same challenges, to build bridges, to cross-pollinate and learn from each other, so that hopefully as a community of innovative planting designers, we can create the kind of planting systems that our world so desperately needs, and there’s still so much to learn.
Margaret: Well, and I was fascinated that you and Thomas both talked with me recently about how I think one of you said, maybe you said it, “We design from a maintenance perspective up.” And you were kind of alluding to that a minute ago, but if it’s not going to succeed, if the plants aren’t going to work together, you have to do all that homework and then you have to, as you say, sometimes do sort of a postmortem and figure out what did and didn’t work. But you’re looking to choose things that can survive not just whether it’s sun or shade or something or what zone it’s in, but a lot more complexities than that. A lot more challenges. And I loved… You were talking about if you know a site has deer, you have to face that reality before you choose a single plant, right?
Claudia: Well, absolutely. I think that’s so important. We can build all kinds of botanical sand castles [laughter], and the second they get installed, they just disappear and decline, and that cannot be, we can no longer afford that kind of luxury thinking. I think what we are really passionate about, and that’s all four of us here at Phyto—Thomas, Melissa and Emily as well—are very practical, and believe that this solution that we are developing are especially needed in the most difficult kind of site conditions.
We’re working on a project, for example, in Manhattan right now that will receive very little maintenance resources from the parks department. But this is where planting and innovative solutions that stand the test of time are needed the most. So the main filter for all of us is what kind of resources and skill levels does a client have, and this becomes the filter for every single design move we make later.
We are all, four of us, seasoned gardeners and after office hours, we’re out there learning in our own gardens. So we have lots of experience that we bring to this work that helps filter out what will really hold up and what may only be suitable if we do, for example, a public garden project, where we have the luxury of having a highly trained team who can stay on top of that. But I can honestly say the majority of our plant projects do not have that luxury. The majority of them just need something that sticks, despite the challenges that we throw at them.
Margaret: And I loved, and I know readers and listeners also love, just hearing that—and then looking at the pictures that you shared with me, and we’ll put some of those to illustrate this transcript of this show. But to see this beautiful portion of a landscape in an image, and yet to know that you’ve made plant choices again that could, again for instance, resist deer pressure. I think you were talking about the mountain mints and what is it, golden Alexanders?
Claudia: Right.
Margaret: Just some of these… One of the Monarda is the Eastern beebalm, Monarda bradburiana. That we needn’t give up— there are incredible plants, including natives and some very high performing non-natives, ecologically high performing non-natives, and you use both—that can stand up to these pressures. And it’s our job to find them as gardeners so that we can succeed, and make these thriving, immersive living landscapes.
Claudia: That’s exactly right. And the higher the deer pressure is, and whatever else it is, for some people it’s rabbits or geese—every day we deal with that—the more creative one has to be figure out how to outsmart the beasts and still be able to have the highest possible level of diversity in the design without having to go out there every month or so, or sometimes every couple of weeks to spray things with deer repel. That just can’t be it.
Margaret: No, that’s not the answer. I totally agree that it’s impossible.
Claudia: And luckily there are so many plants, like I said earlier, that we as gardeners and as designers can get our hands on, that usually even with the layers of stresses or challenges layered on top of one another, we can find a pretty good palette of species that can still create a really lush, diverse and ecologically intense design.
Margaret: I see the word a lot of times in designs that like yours—or that to me visually look similar—I see the word “matrix” a lot of times, and I am not even really sure I understand it. And it seems to me that in your designs I see these moments of color and flowering and so forth. And then beneath those, but then showing more fully at other times when there’s not one of those little performances going on, one of those high point color performances… Well, “plants are the mulch,” there’s all this great stuff living together, this community. And it’s green a lot of the time, but it’s thick and it’s rich and it’s full of life. What’s the matrix? Because it seems like sometimes there are grasses, sometimes there are ferns in with the flowering perennials, and… What’s a matrix [laughter]?
Claudia: So it’s a term that is being used a lot these days, and a lot of designers are creating different variations of matrix plantings. But essentially it means that you are not arranging plants in these big single-species blocks, but you mix and mingle them more with one another.
Margaret: Oh!
Claudia: And there are different versions of that. Matrix can still be very horticultural driven or it can be more population driven and stylized metals, for example, it’s not about having so many individual plants in these types of meadows. It’s more about having a certain percentage of plant populations that make a matrix. So there are varying typologies of matrices. And as a firm, and personally, we use all different types of planting-design strategies. We’re even using the traditional block-planting strategy all the way to highly complex matrix plantings and everything in between.
Margaret: I didn’t understand.
Claudia: What’s different is that even in block plantings, we still find opportunities to nestle groundcovers underneath individual plants. And depending on the context of a planting, these groundcovers can be highly visible or not visible at all, if visual clarity is very important for the client.
Instead of sitting in this ocean of mulch, even if we have, let’s just say, a single-species block of something like Amsonia hubrichtii, we still would layer something like a sedge or a golden groundsel [Packera aurea, below] underneath that to be that green mulch under these taller species, and fill every opportunity we have with ecologically functional plants and reduce weed pressure by covering all that ground.
So groundcover doesn’t mean looking at this planting like a bird from above down and seeing everything covered. Groundcover really means more like if you cut a section through it and you are looking at the planting, we look straight at it, you shouldn’t see any bare soil right there at this top area where your plants come out of the soil. That’s where the groundcover really matters.
Margaret: So you said sedges, for instance, the Carex could be one.
Claudia: Yes.
Margaret: So let’s talk more about some of the other groundcovers that you find yourself using as that base layer, so to speak. So they’re not the big show-offs at all, right?
Claudia: They can have their moments. Sometimes in the spring they really show off.
Margaret: But they’re doing this-
Claudia: They’re more functional, usually.
Margaret: … really important job.
Claudia: They are. And depending on what they’re combined with, they have to either be super sun-tolerant, for example, if what they’re combined with is not a good groundcover and allows a lot of sunlight to get through to these lower species. Then we really want extremely tough full-sun plants like Antennaria for example, and many of them have a really nice semi-evergreen basal leaf. So they even provide a pretty good erosion control and weed-suppression function in the winter season, unless you’re covered in a lot of snow, of course [laughter], so many sedges and even the Packera, they at least for us here, almost completely green in the winter, which is fantastic for the suppression of weeds.
Margaret: The Antennaria, is that pussytoes?
Claudia: That’s right. Yes, that is the common name.
Margaret: Good. I’m just trying to get a visual or mental image of some examples.
Claudia: And then we have denser planting where there’s actually a lot of shade in the summer under these taller perennials or shrubs or trees, then clearly we need groundcovers that come from more of a forest or woodland-edge ecosystem. And this is where, like you said, the stages are really important, or violets come in.
So if your planting is much denser and there’s not a whole lot of sunlight reaching the ground in the summer, if you are planting under dense perennials or shrubs or trees, then groundcovers that come from more of a forest or woodland edge ecosystem are usually doing a lot better. And here it’s very important to select the right kind of behavior as you know some of them can be really aggressive, so use them with caution. And sometimes the ones that are slightly better behaved can pair better with perennials and other things that would emerge in your garden, probably April, May-ish. So they allow a certain level of diversity.
So here again, behavior and understanding how they spread, when they’re green, all of these things are really important to put all the pieces together in a nice, crisp and well-knitted plant community.
Margaret: And so in this last minute, and that’s just to double back, that’s where the research comes in. Even for someone with your expertise. And for instance, in this collaboration with Penn State and with their arboretum, and they have a whole research institute about this, even you are learning and asking more questions and seeking better choices and so forth. So I think University of Minnesota has a lot of information about this. Any other sources where we can look, and I can give some links for people?
Claudia: Yes. I think every public garden is a fantastic way of learning. Going to Longwood or Chanticleer or Mt. Cuba Center and going there in the winter, or going there at a time of year that is not high summer or May. Every garden looks great in May, but often if you have a weed problem in let’s say August, because many of your early season perennials have gone dormant or melted in the heat, then go to one of these gardens in high summer and see what is at the top of its performance then. And then take that and put that in your problem area to fill that gap at this time of year. That’s how we operate a lot. We go out there into all kinds of environments to solve very specific problems and get inspiration at the problem time of year [laughter]. It’s a fun thing to do.
Margaret: Yes, it is. And it’s so educational and so essential because it’s a little bit of brave new world. We’re learning a lot and we’re using new-to-us plants and so forth. So well Claudia West from Phyto Studio, thank you so much for making time.
(All photos of Phyto’s work by Rob Cardillo Photography.)
enter to win a copy of ‘planting in a post-wild world’
I’LL BUY A COPY of “Planting in a Post-Wild World” for one lucky reader. All you have to do to enter is answer this question in the comments box below:
Are there areas of your garden that demand repeat weeding as Claudia described above, that would benefit from a living mulch of groundcovers? Tell us.
No answer, or feeling shy? Just say something like “count me in” and I will, but a reply is even better. I’ll select a random winner after entries close Tuesday August 29, 2023 at midnight. Good luck to all.
(Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)
MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Aug. 21, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
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margaret
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A succulent perennial that primarily thrives in the desert or dry shrubland biome, the flesh of aloe vera is not only consumed as food, but also used as a natural remedy with many beneficial qualities.
And if you want to take advantage of these at home, you’re going to need to know how to harvest it.
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Additionally, its drought tolerance makes it an environmentally useful plant, and it is often featured as an ornamental succulent, adding beauty to gardens and homes alike.
In our guide to growing aloe vera, we cover how to cultivate and care for this succulent in your garden.
In this guide, I’ll explain how to properly harvest aloe leaves, along with some of their uses.
Here’s what’s ahead:
When harvesting the succulent leaves, it’s essential to first identify which ones are ready to be picked.
Look for thick and fleshy leaves that are growing on the outside of the plant. These are typically the most mature leaves and will provide the best yield.
Once you’ve identified the leaves you want to harvest, it’s time to carefully remove them from the plant.
Using a sharp and sanitized knife, make sure to cut at an angle and as close to the base of the leaf as possible. Take care not to damage any of the remaining leaves or the plant itself.
If you don’t have a garden knife, this K2 Engraved Garden Tool Folding Knife is an excellent choice that is both functional and beautiful.
K2 Engraved Garden Tool Folding Knife
You can purchase it at Garret Wade.
It’s important to remember that the plants need time to recover between harvests. Be gentle with your plant and avoid over-harvesting.
Your aloe plant can provide many benefits for years to come with proper care and attention.
If you plan to use the leaves regularly, it’s best to grow a few of these succulents so you can take turns gathering leaves from the other plants, rotating as needed to provide time to heal and regrow in between.
Prior to using your leaves, place them in a large jar or bowl cut side down, with the tips pointing upwards. This will allow the aloin, also known as aloe latex, to drain out from the bottom.
Cutting at an angle also helps to encourage the latex to drain.
Aloin is yellow in color and turns a reddish brown as it oxidizes. This is a crucial step to take prior to using your leaves since the substance can be toxic and it may cause digestive upset.
If the latex comes in contact with your skin, it can also cause irritation.
It is also important to note that aloe should not be consumed during pregnancy, as it is a strong laxative and extremely bitter in flavor.
Once you have successfully harvested your leaves, there are various ways to make use of them.
Aloe vera is a remarkable succulent revered for its numerous medicinal properties.
The gel-like substance inside the leaves, often referred to as pulp, is widely recognized for its ability to soothe and heal many skin conditions, including sunburn, rashes, and cuts.
It is also believed to possess potent anti-inflammatory properties, making it a potentially suitable choice for individuals with inflammatory bowel disease.
But please use caution when considering aloe for internal use. Use it sparingly, and consult with a medical professional as needed when taking any type of plant-based supplements.
You can carefully peel open the leaves and scoop out the insides to obtain the gel.
Some growers also add the leaves with the skin to homemade smoothies for a health boost. Be sure to only use this species, as other types are not considered edible.
We advise against using whole leaf aloe for internal use due to potential health risks. According to experts at the Mayo Clinic, whole leaf extract taken orally may be unsafe, and is likely unsafe in high doses.
As a gardener, I think one of the most remarkable attributes of the pulp is its ability to encourage root growth!
The succulent contains plant hormones and growth promoters that can act as a natural rooting hormone.
You can apply it to cuttings instead of a synthetic growth hormone or add it to the water you use for seedlings to support robust root development.
According to an article in the Journal of Dry Zone Agriculture, the most effective way to use the leaves to stimulate root growth is to harvest them five to seven days before you are ready to use them as a natural rooting hormone.
The article discusses the effects of the gel for inducing rooting in stem cuttings and air layering.
If you’re looking for a fun and rewarding activity, try gathering aloe vera! Harvesting the succulent leaves is such an enjoyable experience for many reasons.
With so many different uses for this plant, from treating sunburns to making refreshing drinks, it’s always exciting to see what you can create with your freshly harvested leaves.
Plus, it’s a wonderful way to connect with nature and appreciate all it offers.
Do you make use of the aloe vera leaves you grow? Share your experiences and tips with us below!
Are you inspired to learn more about growing and caring for these succulents? Check out these articles next:
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Kat Sanchez
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Over the last few weeks we’ve been quite busy, but life seems to be settling back down a little at the moment. Currently we’re harvesting okra, some herbs, Everglades tomatoes, hot peppers, sweet potato greens and even some squash blossoms from the gardens. The picture above was taken this morning – all that good stuff is being made into breakfast as I write.
The weather has been tough for gardening, to say the least, and it looks like it’s going to continue that trend over the next week:
Whew. Welcome to the Deep South. And thank God for air conditioning.
These here are days for soaking in a kiddie pool under the magnolia tree with a glass of iced tea and a big slice of watermelon.
The lack of rain and the high heat has been taking its toll on everything. The gardens are suffering, but we did get an inch of rain a couple of days ago that helped.
Fall isn’t that far away. I’m using these hot days as a time to get writing done.
The first draft of Minimalist Gardening is finished and is being illustrated by the excellent Tom Sensible, who also illustrated The South Florida Gardening Survival Guide.
With that finished, I have turned my attention to working on another book that has been in the works for quite a while. It’s tentatively titled The Easy Way to Start a Food Forest: Forest Gardening for Normal People. Many of the instructional materials and ideas on food forests are too complicated and structured, so this book will cut right through to the basics and get people actually planting instead of planning and planning and planning.
Our trip to Hannibal for the Homesteading Life Conference was wonderful and we made a great family vacation out of it.
Also, we have some plans to expand the plant nursery this fall, as the initial sales have been promising and we’d like to do a lot more with starting less common trees from seed.
We will have a plant sale tomorrow, and we’re quite short on one-gallon pots, so if you have some to trade in for store credit, please bring ’em!
Have a great weekend.
-David
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Around here we’re not fans of the f-word. No, not that f-word. We’re talking about FALL. In our minds that cooler weather is still a long way off, so we’ve decided to celebrate the dog days of summer by talking about plants that really put on a show in August. When much of the garden is looking tired and bedraggled, these plants add a colorful punch to the scene. Some unexpected perennials and shrubs dominate our lists and for those who have been demanding it—Peter is back with his take on the end of summer. In true Peter fashion though, he’ll be discussing ice cream and…the solar system? Well, his segment will be entertaining, that’s for sure.
Expert guest: Cheyenne Wine is a writer and photographer at Rare Roots Nursery in Virginia, and a regular contributor to Fine Gardening’s Southeast regional reports.
Sombrero® Granada Gold coneflower (Echinacea ‘Balsomold’, Zones 4-9)
Scarlet rose mallow (Hibiscus coccineus, Zones 6-9)
Coral Crème Drop™ garden phlox (Phlox paniculata ‘Ditomdre’, Zones 3-8)
Quick Fire® panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Bulk’, Zones 4-8)
‘Dark Knight’ blue mist shrub (Caryopteris x clandonensis ‘Dark Knight’, Zones 5-9)
Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia, annual)
Small yellow baptisia (Baptisia tinctoria, Zones 3-9)
‘Purple Supreme’ smoke bush (Cotinus ‘Purple Supreme’, Zones 5-8)
‘Cherry Choco Latte’ rose mallow (Hibiscus x moscheutos ‘Cherry Choco Latte’, Zones 4-9)
Blue cardinal flower (Lobelia siphilitica, Zones 4-9)
‘Ham and Eggs’ lantana (Lantana camara ‘Ham and Eggs’, Zones 7b-11)
Vanilla Strawberry panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Renhy’, Zones 3-8)
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Weddings are joyous celebrations that mark the union of two people. In this contemporary era, the concept of family-centred weddings has gained prominence. Instead of focusing solely on extravagance, modern couples are turning their attention to fostering heartfelt connections and creating cherished memories.
This guide navigates the essence of family-centred weddings, offering practical insights and creative ideas for couples aiming to craft a meaningful and unforgettable event for themselves and their loved ones.
The essence of a family-centred wedding revolves around the celebration of relationships. Moving beyond the couple, this approach centres on the merging of two families.
It’s a beautiful opportunity to honour parents, siblings, and close relatives who have played significant roles in the lives of the soon-to-be-weds. The focus is on inclusivity and shared joy.
The choice of a wedding venue holds profound significance. Opting for a location that carries sentimental value for both families can elevate the occasion.
Whether it’s the place where the couple first met, or a cherished family residence, the venue becomes a canvas to paint the emotions of the journey that brought everyone together.
Invitations hold the initial promise of the upcoming celebration. For a family-centred wedding, consider adding a personal touch to the invitations.
Including a heartfelt note or a photograph of the families can evoke warm feelings of anticipation and connection among the guests.
Integrating family members into the wedding planning process can make the event all the more special.
Seeking their input on decisions such as decor, music, and menu choices not only lightens the load, but also fosters a sense of shared responsibility and unity in creating a momentous day.
Incorporating customs and traditions that hold significance for both sides of the family adds depth to the celebration.
Whether it’s a cultural practice, or a heartwarming tradition passed through generations, sharing these elements with guests invites them into the couple’s history.
Opting for a smaller wedding party comprising immediate family members and closest friends enhances intimacy.
Such a setting encourages deeper interactions, ensuring that each guest shares a profound connection with the couple, making the celebration feel like an extended family gathering.
A family tree display at the wedding venue serves as a visual reminder of the connections being celebrated.
Adorned with photographs and brief descriptions of family members, it offers a glimpse into the roots and branches of both families, sparking conversations and helping guests understand the couple’s heritage.
If there are children within the families, involving them in the ceremony imparts a heartwarming touch.
Whether through readings, special roles, or a family vow that involves them, this inclusion symbolises the creation of a new family unit.
Seating arrangements can reflect the spirit of togetherness. Opting for long, banquet-style tables facilitates shared conversations and interactions among guests.
In addition, displaying photographs or mementoes from family weddings as conversation starters further strengthens the sense of familial camaraderie.
Preserve the wisdom and anecdotes of family members by capturing their stories.
You can employ a videographer, or set up a recording station where relatives can share their well-wishes and narratives. These recorded messages serve as invaluable keepsakes, allowing the couple to relive those cherished moments whenever they wish.
When it comes to transportation, couples can explore the option of wedding cars for rent. For example, if they’re getting wed in or near Bedford, they can start searching for wedding cars for rent in Bedford.
Such a choice adds an element of sophistication, while ensuring a comfortable ride for families and the couple. It’s essential that the chosen mode of transportation complements the overall theme and style of the wedding.
Select wedding favours that resonate with the couple’s journey and their families. These tokens could range from homemade treats to family recipes or items that hold sentimental value.
Family-centred weddings encapsulate the genuine essence of love, unity, and togetherness. By embracing meaningful connections, intertwining traditions, and valuing the presence of cherished ones, couples can forge a wedding that etches a legacy of love in the hearts of all who attend.
Remember, a wedding isn’t merely a fleeting celebration; it marks the beginning of a shared chapter in the couple’s journey, enveloped by the warmth and support of their families.
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Catherine
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I CALL THEM Urgent Garden Questions, because when you have something you can’t sort out in the garden, it certainly feels like an emergency. This time of the season, with its weather extremes and other insults like destructive pest and diseases, usually produces a bumper crop of them.
That’s why Ken Druse and I are offering a free Urgent Garden Question Open House webinar on August 31, 2023 on Zoom, at 6-7:15 PM Eastern time (register at this link). The details:
First, a presentation: Join us for a short slideshow from our gardens—some highlights, some of what we’ve learned along the way, and also some of what’s been bugging us. (Yes, we have Urgent Garden Questions of our own that always need answering, too!)
Then it’s on to your questions—both live ones you can ask after listening to our talk, or about anything else…or this:
Can’t join us live? We’ll send a replay out afterwards to everyone who registers, even if you don’t attend.
No matter what your experience level, I’m sure you’ll find some helpful ideas (and probably a few laughs, since we cannot help ourselves with the bad jokes…). We hope you’ll come spend some time talking plants with us on August 31.
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margaret
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Cauliflower can be a challenging vegetable to grow in the home garden. It has very specific needs, and when they aren’t met, your harvest basket may be full of green leaves, but no heads.
And while the foliage is delicious, it’s a disappointing season finale.
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In this article, we’ll consider 11 reasons for cauliflower not forming heads.
Sometimes a crop is doomed from the start. This is likely to be the case when you purchase seed that is not suited to your USDA Hardiness Zone. Cauliflower thrives best with consistent temperatures ranging from 60 to 70°F.
Be sure to read seed packets carefully and choose varieties with days to maturity that match your climate’s growing season. Decide if you’ll plant a spring or fall crop, or both. Explore the latest cultivars that have improved temperature tolerance and shortened maturation periods.
Cauliflower is temperamental throughout its development, especially during the germination and seedling phase.
For best results, start seeds indoors about four to six weeks before the last predicted frost date in spring. This is preferable to direct sowing, because it gives seedlings a chance to become established before facing outdoor conditions.
Transplant seedlings about two weeks prior to the last average frost date in your area, when they have grown at least two sets of true leaves. The ground should be at least 50°F.
Don’t wait too long to transplant, or your seedlings may become pot-bound, with roots that wrap around and around fail to deliver water and essential nutrients to the developing plant
If your climate allows for a fall crop, wait until the average air temperature has dropped to at least 75°F, generally about eight weeks before the first frost.
Seedlings require a period of gradual acclimation to the outdoors called “hardening off.” Without it, cold shock may slow growth and have a detrimental effect on development.
Poorly tended seedlings may appear to thrive, but if they have suffered stress they might not form heads as expected.
Members of the Brassica genus like cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, and kohlrabi require full sun to thrive. Without at least six hours of sunlight per day, results may be disappointing.
If your region has afternoons that are really too hot for cauliflower growing, you may try planting in partial shade. However, growth slows without sunlight, and you might find your plants are still putting on leaves when they should be forming heads.
Organically-rich soil is best for cauliflower. It’s a heavy feeder, so do a soil test and determine the nutrient content of your garden. Improve the soil as needed with the addition of compost, well-aged manure, or humus.
Soil contains macronutrients like nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, the N-P-K that you see on fertilizer labels. It also contains other macronutrients including calcium, and micronutrients such as copper. Micronutrients are typically found in lesser amounts.
Imbalances in the soil may result in inadequate nutrient uptake, resulting in stress that may cause failure to form heads.
One nutrient that’s difficult to measure is nitrogen. While cauliflower uses a good bit of it to grow, too much of this macronutrient is known to cause excess foliage production.
Therefore, if you fertilize your vegetables, you should choose a slow-release type in which the ratio of N is slightly less than the P and K components.
A soil test also determines pH, and serves as a measure of acidity or alkalinity. For cauliflower, the pH should be neutral to slightly acidic, or about 6.5 to 7.0. You may increase acidity with the addition of rich organic matter, or decrease it with an application of garden lime.
Poor soil that is devoid of nutritive organic matter, as well as soil with a pH that’s too acidic or too alkaline, may contribute to head formation failure.
While cauliflower requires consistent moisture, it should never stand in a puddle. Its roots need to take what they require to nourish the plant and let the rest drain away.
Poorly draining soil leaves roots vulnerable to nibbling nematodes, slugs, and snails that can impair the ability of the plant to take up water and nutrients. In addition, these insects may spread diseases to weakened plants.
If your cauliflower has consistently wet feet, it may fail to produce heads.
This veggie is one of the thirstier ones. It needs one to two inches of water each week, so get yourself a rain gauge to monitor rainfall, and prepare to supplement as needed.
With some vegetables, you can get away with keeping them moist during the germination and seedling phases, and then let Mother Nature provide the rain they need.
But this is not so with cauliflower. If you let it dry out, it’s likely to suffer stress that can lead to bolting, buttoning, or no head formation.
Keep in mind that it’s not only a lack of sufficient rainfall and failure to irrigate with supplemental water as needed that may leave your crops at risk of drying out. Wind may accelerate moisture evaporation as well. So, if the weather forecast is a gusty one, protect plants with well-anchored floating row covers.
When transplanting seedlings, space them out with 24 inches between plants, and 30 to 36 inches between rows. This allows for ample airflow and root formation, essentials for healthy growth.
Circulating air stays cooler and less humid, helping to inhibit fungal diseases that are detrimental to cole crop development.
Roots that can spread without competition from neighbors are better able to hydrate and nourish a plant.
Healthy plants are less vulnerable to the ravages of infestation or infection.
In addition to meeting light, soil, water, drainage, temperature, and spacing requirements, cauliflower growers need to be vigilant about keeping weeds to a minimum. Thick weed growth creates competition for water, and invites insects who can hide out and be near their favorite vegetable at the same time.
Please consult our article on growing cauliflower for details on how to manage common pests and diseases, as they can cause enough stress to result in failure to form heads.
Rotating crops isn’t just for farmers.
Growing vegetables feed on soil throughout the growing season, depleting its nutrients. Changing locations from season to season allows soil to replenish. As an added bonus, it also helps to keep pests and disease at bay.
If you’re not rotating your crops, your soil may become spent, and thus unable to provide adequate nutrition with poor head formation as a result.
Sometimes what seems like a plant’s failure to form a head is actually due to a misunderstanding of the number of days to maturity.
Depending on the variety, cauliflower needs between 50 and 100 growing days to be harvest-ready.
While this information is provided on seed packets, it’s easy to forget. If you’ve met the plants’ needs so far, be patient and hope for the best.
You need to be a bit of a weather junkie to grow good cauliflower, because this is one stubborn vegetable. It just won’t budge when it comes to demanding temperatures that aren’t too cold or too hot.
So, once you’ve chosen seed that’s appropriate for your region, monitor weather predictions and be proactive.
Mulch is going to be your new best friend. It keeps plants cool when the weather warms up, and retains heat when temperatures dip. It also helps with moisture retention.
In addition to mulch, you could place lightweight shade cloth over plants to deflect the sun’s rays during a heatwave.
And conversely, during a cold snap, use floating row covers with their ends snugly closed to form a warm cocoon. These also inhibit wind-driven moisture evaporation.
At any stage from seedling to flush with foliage, a cauliflower plant may experience stress that could alter the course and outcome of its development.
Along the way, you might have plants bolt in the heat and go to seed. Or, they may button or rice, leaving you with loose little curds. And finally, they could fail to set a head altogether.
Despite these challenges, or maybe because of them, cauliflower’s allure for home gardeners is strong. Knowing the 11 potential problems outlined above – and avoiding them – puts you ahead of the game.
When you finally see the crowning glory of your efforts nestled in the voluminous foliage, go back to that seed packet and see if you have a self-blanching kind.
If not, there’s one more crucial step to success, and that brings us to our bonus tip:
You must gently wrap several of the longest leaves over the developing head to protect it from “blanching” in the sunlight that has sustained it for so long. Loosely join them with clothespins so you can still peer in to watch it reach the size indicated on that all-important seed packet.
Not losing a head to sunburn is the final hurdle, and then you’re home free… barring a sudden hard frost, or a late-season heatwave.
Once you’ve got your precious harvest, why not visit our sister site, Foodal for innovative cauliflower recipes?
It’s time to choose your favorite cauliflower varieties! Start planning for the season ahead. This year’s vegetable garden is sure to be your best yet.
Have you run into any hurdles while growing your own cauliflower at home? Share your stories, suggestions, and questions in the comments below. We love hearing from you!
If you found this article informative, you’re sure to enjoy some our other cauliflower growing guides:
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Nan Schiller
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Herbs are a must in my garden. I use fresh herbs in cooking year-round and love to keep them close to the kitchen for easy harvest. Join me as we tour the transformation of my perennial herb container garden into a culinary kitchen garden that looks as beautiful as it is tasty.
A kitchen garden is a wonderful way to keep fresh produce and herbs right outside your backdoor ready for cooking. When you’re growing herbs, you want to ensure things are contained and tidy since it’s right next to your entertaining space.
Here is how I grew a culinary yet decorative kitchen garden!
In one of my previous homes, the garden spaces were near the edges of the property. We had a small deck off the kitchen with stairs that led down to a patio space. I created a perennial herb garden in containers for easy access from the kitchen.
When I moved, a perfect in-ground bed was ready to become the kitchen garden. The 4-foot by 10-foot space is mostly in full sun and conveniently located at the base of the stairs leading down from the deck.
I lugged over the herb pots from the old house and transplanted them into the soil surrounding a young fig tree that came with the garden. The soil was terrible, but I built it up with layers of homegrown compost over the next few years.
Bright, direct sunlight and healthy soil proved to be the perfect combination. All of the herbs grew like weeds, and before I knew it, I had monstrous sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano, and mint plants, all competing to be the tallest and most vigorous in the neighbourhood.
However, they didn’t have a chance at the title with the fig tree growing in the center of the space. It shot up 10 feet and showed no sign of slowing down.
I tried to keep on top of pruning and shaping the fig in hopes that it would respond well. But, in the end, you can’t argue with “right plant, right place.” It was just too big for the space.
It’s not often that you hear of a renovation being needed because things are thriving, but in this case, I needed to rethink what the garden would be in the long term, especially with all of that healthy soil and sunlight.
My idea was to add my favourite everyday herbs with a few special and decorative feature plants for interest. Given the size of the space, I hunted for dwarf or container varieties, as well as those that responded well to pruning.
My friends over at Monrovia generously provided me with some beautiful dwarf plant varieties that worked perfectly for the space. I reused some of my containers from the previous garden and divided the herbs to give them more growing room.
Then, I added some annual herbs, such as basil and parsley, around the perennials for practical and decorative purposes.
It’s important that you put your kitchen garden very close to the house. This is considered zone 1 in permaculture design, and it should be easily accessible for you to harvest and maintain the plants on a daily basis.
You can customize your kitchen garden with the types of plants you like to feast on, but here is what my newly planted culinary kitchen garden looks like now.
Yuzu (Citrus ichangensis x C. reticulata) is an interesting thorny, lime-coloured tree and a temperate citrus from East Asia. This tree came from one in Japan with a similar climate to the Pacific Northwest and zone 7.
While most citrus requires heat, sun, and at least Zone 8, a yuzu is an interesting addition to my temperate culinary kitchen garden. The fruit is bitter and astringent; used mostly in sauces.
I have yet to taste it, but the fragrant leaves indicate I will use a lot of yuzu in cooking. This dwarf tree will only grow to 6-8′ tall and is cold hardy to 10 degrees F. It is the perfect feature plant to anchor the garden.
Like the yuzu, these two Brazelberries blueberries are highly decorative, cold-hardy, dwarf, fruit-producing plants.
I wanted a dwarf rosemary variety for the garden but decided on one that would respond well to pruning instead.
Arp Rosemary is an upright growing rosemary that can turn into a 6-foot hedge if allowed. Since it responds well to pruning, I plan to keep up with these two plants and harvest a heck of a lot of rosemary throughout the year!
I have two types of oregano that share a pot: Hot & Spicy Oregano and Italian Oregano. The Hot & Spicy is fuzzy and has a bit of a bite when raw. It won’t add much spice to a dish when it is cooked, so use it like regular oregano.
The Italian oregano is lime green and easily transplanted to the ornamental garden as a groundcover. I only use a little oregano in cooking, but I like to have plenty in the garden to flower for the bees.
I have two sage plants that have remained in the space. One large silvery sage in the northeast corner of the bed and a tall sage that has been trained into a 4-foot tall tree. Both provide plenty of herbs for me and flowers for pollinators.
I plant plenty of chives and onions to ward off pests around the garden. Chives have purple, pompom-shaped flowers that will alternate blooming with the lavender.
A nodding onion (Allium cernuum) is planted between the two rosemary plants showing off delicate white blooms that hang upside down.
My mojito mint is a large-leaf, sweet mint labelled only as “Mojito Mint.” It’s contained in a large plastic pot that overwinters well. I can often harvest a few mint leaves well into November.
The dark-stemmed chocolate mint is another favourite. It was a division from my mother’s garden many years ago. It produces chocolate-scented leaves reliably year after year. As mint can be invasive, I keep it contained in pots.
Lavender is planted throughout my flower garden, but I felt it needed a place in the kitchen garden as well. You can use it as a culinary herb, like this lavender lemonade. This Thumbelina Leigh English Lavender is a dwarf variety that stays neatly at 12 inches high and wide.
I planted them alternately with chives. The lavender can be cut back after blooming to keep its pretty shape, and it will rebloom up to three times each year.
I have a love/hate relationship with strawberry pots. On the one hand, I love how decorative they are and this one filled with Albion, Seascape, and San Andreas strawberries looks gorgeous.
I have been using it to grow strawberries for many years (as can be seen by the patina on the pot), but I have always been disappointed at how the berries in the lower pockets grow.
I created a perforated watering tube, and then all the plants thrived! I expect a long harvest of fresh strawberries this year.
I wrote out the DIY instructions on how to create an irrigation tube for a strawberry planter over on Angie’s List, where I also write a blog.
All of the plants I mentioned above are perennials. Unfortunately, not all herbs come back each year. Here are some annuals that I also included in my culinary garden that can be customized every year based on what I’m cooking.
A kitchen garden is filled with herbs and produce you often use in cooking. What you plant depends solely on what you eat!
I prefer to plant mostly perennials to make maintenance easy, as the plant will return each year on its own. I also prefer dwarf varieties so I can plant many edible plants without worrying they will outgrow the space.
First, you need to choose a location. The location should ideally be easy to access by the kitchen, usually on or nearby a patio. The sunlight should match the plant’s needs, typically full sun or partial shade. You’ll also want nutrient-rich soil to ensure the plant is fruitful and can handle consistent harvesting.
If you don’t have a garden bed for a culinary garden, you can also grow your edible plants in containers or a raised bed. Even apartments can have a kitchen garden.
With all of these additions to my culinary kitchen garden, I’ll be off to a great start with cooking. I’d be eager to hear about any herbs you grow in your garden that you couldn’t live without. Please share your thoughts in the comments.
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Stephanie Rose
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Anybody who owns a home or has a place to themselves knows that it’s important to keep your space in good order. If your home is functioning properly and looks good at the same time, it can have a really positive impact on your mood and your life.
Aiming for perfection isn’t the goal here; instead, aim to do what you can to make your home a relaxing, enjoyable place to be. One way to do this is to make changes that add elegance to your home.
Creating an elegant living space isn’t something that happens overnight, but it’s not a difficult process. It’s just a case of following a few rules and learning some clever tricks.
Here are some easy ways to add elegance to your home.
When it comes to creating an elegant home, one of the best things you can do is keep it simple.
Declutter your space and look to adopt a minimalist approach. When you have clean lines and uncluttered surfaces, it creates a sense of clarity and tranquility. You’ll feel more sophisticated, and you’ll also have a blank canvas to work with.
When it comes to elegant colours, you could do a lot worse than look at neutral tones. They never go out of style and they’re perfect for creating a harmonious backdrop, setting the stage for more intricate designs.
Your furniture will play a huge part in how your home looks overall. Make sure you invest in a few standout pieces. A wonderfully crafted sofa or a captivating piece of art can instantly add elegance and refine a room.
It’s wise to reflect on your personal style before making a purchase, so that you can keep things consistent throughout the entire property.
It’s amazing just how much of a difference lighting can make to any room. Different textures can significantly enhance the elegance of the entire space.
When you incorporate layered lighting with task and ambient lights, you can create a warm and inviting atmosphere. You can also use accessories such as velvet cushions, plush throws, and silk drapes to introduce a real sense of richness.
This post has been about simple ways to add elegance to your home, but it’s also nice to invest significantly every now and again. If you have the money to spend, you can create wow factor in your interiors with statement pieces. Introducing things like Quartz Worktops and other expensive pieces can really provide a sense of luxury. It doesn’t have to be something that you add to every room; you can focus on areas that you spend lots of time in or use to entertain guests.
Follow these tips, and you’ll be well on the way to an elegant, beautiful home.
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Catherine
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With its highly sought after berries and incomparably fragrant blossoms, elderberries are worth growing in the garden.
Sure, you can buy elderberry plants. But it’s so easy to propagate them from cuttings that there’s no reason not to give it a go.
Incidentally, if you’re new to rooting cuttings taken from trees and shrubs, then you’ve picked the right plant to start with. Elderberry is one of the most reliable plants I have ever propagated this way.
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On top of that, you have lots of options. You can take either hardwood or softwood cuttings, and propagate them in water, a soilless potting medium, or soil in the ground.
If you want, you can forage a plant to take cuttings from. Elderberries grow wild in North and South America, Europe, and Asia, so lots of people may have the opportunity to find one in their neck of the woods.
Alternatively, select branches from a mature cultivated plant in a generous neighbor’s yard, or create new plants from one you’re already growing.
If you have a plant that you particularly love – maybe it produces abundantly, or has large berries – I highly recommend propagating it this way.
Ready to get started? Here’s what we’ll go over:
Before you head out to the garden, you’ll need to gather a few supplies.
First, you need a sharp pair of clippers. Clean them with a solution of one part bleach to 10 parts water. This helps to prevent the spread of disease.
If you plan to root them in water, you’ll need several jars to hold the cuttings while they root. Quart or pint-sized Mason jars work great.
You’ll need some rooting hormone powder or gel, containers, and potting medium if you don’t plan to use the water method.
Use individual containers or even a large bucket for multiples.
I prefer to use a four or six-inch compostable option like CowPots™, which aren’t made out of peat, a limited resource.
CowPots Biodegradable Containers
Arbico Organics sells a pack of 42 six-inch pots if you decide to go this route. I find individual pots are easier to work with than a single large container when moving them around or at transplanting time.
If you own the plant you’re taking a cutting from, you’re all set. If it’s on public land, make sure to check your local regulations before snipping. And of course, if it’s on private land, seek permission from the owner.
Take a basket or bag with you to collect hardwood cuttings in. If you’re taking softwood, have a jar of water with you to store the wood in while you work.
Elderberries are perennial hardwood plants in the Sambucus genus. They go dormant during the winter, and flower in the late spring or early summer. Shortly after, they form fruit that can be used in the kitchen or the medicine cabinet.
Plants may be propagated from either hardwood or softwood cuttings.
Hardwood elderberry cuttings should be taken when the plant is dormant. The timing can vary by region, but this typically takes place from January to March, depending on your climate.
Just peek outside at your plant and look for any green growth or buds breaking. No growth or budding? It’s time.
Look for branches that are about the diameter of a pencil, and try to take cuttings that are about six to eight inches in length and include at least two to four nodes. Nodes are the spots where new leaves and branches emerge.
Look for a branch with lots of lenticels. These are the little bumps all over the branch and they work like pores, enabling gas exchange.
You also want to choose a branch that is free of any signs of disease, like mold, mildew, or cracks. The wood should be brown, not green.
There are two ways to take your hardwood cuttings. The first is to simply snip the stem with a pair of clippers or a sharp knife.
I like to cut the bottom at a 45-degree angle and cut the top straight, so I know which way is up when planting. If it is inserted in water or soil upside down, it won’t root.
Another method is to gently bend the branch and pull it down at the joint so that some of the bark comes with the cutting as you pull it away, creating a sort of heel or tail of bark.
Trim that tail with pruners so it’s about half an inch long. This is called a heel cutting.
This method exposes the cambium layer of the plant, which contains hormones that aid in rooting.
Softwood cuttings should be taken in the summer while the plant is actively growing, but before the fruit forms.
This is generally in late June through late July. Softwood is the young, lighter brown or green new growth that has formed during the current growing season.
As with hardwood, look for a branch that is about the diameter of a pencil and take a cutting six to eight inches in length, taking care to include at least two to four nodes.
Choose a branch with healthy looking leaves as well as lots of lenticels.
To plan ahead for the possibility of a few of your starts failing, it’s best to take more than you need. You can always toss or give away the extras if they all survive.
Take softwood cuttings the same way you would hardwood cuttings, using a pair of clippers to cut straight through at a 45-degree angle. Note that heel cuttings don’t work on softwood.
Of the three rooting methods that I describe here, this one is regarded as the most reliable method to grow healthy transplants.
I’ve found cuttings tend to grow more quickly and robustly in a soilless medium, and the experts at the Missouri Botanical Garden agree, claiming plants generally develop a better root system when planted in a soilless medium rather than water.
Rooting in a soilless potting medium is a bit more challenging than water since you can’t see if any roots are forming, and you’ll need to do some extra investigation to figure out when it’s time to transplant.
You can purchase a premade mix to put your starts in, like this one from Mother Earth, which contains a mix of 70 percent coco coir and 30 percent perlite.
You can find a 50-liter bag of this medium available on Amazon.
You can also make your own mix by combining half sphagnum peat moss and half vermiculite.
If it has been more than a few hours since you took your cuttings, make a new cut at the base of each and dip it in rooting hormone gel or powder.
I find a powder is easiest to work with, and Bontone makes a good option that I’ve had lots of success with.
If you want to try it, you can buy a 1.25-ounce container, which will last you a good long while, at Arbico Organics.
Bontone II Powdered Rooting Hormone
Use a stick or pencil to poke a hole in the medium. This helps ensure more of the rooting hormone stays on the end of the branch as you insert it into the medium.
Place softwood cuttings in the medium so they’re buried by a third. Hardwood should be buried so the lowest node is two inches below the surface of the medium.
You can use individual four- or six-inch containers, or use one large container and space them about four to six inches apart.
I prefer to use CowPots™ because they can be put directly in the ground, so there’s less disturbance to the roots.
Water the medium thoroughly so that it feels like a well wrung-out sponge.
Tent some clear plastic over the pot to help retain moisture. Just make sure it isn’t touching the plant at all.
You can also purchase cloches to use as miniature greenhouses. Amazon carries a six-pack of plastic domes that are just the right size.
GrowAway Plastic Mini Greenhouse
Every three days, remove the cover and give the plant a misting. Check the medium to make sure it is still moist, and add water if it’s starting to dry out.
Place in a cool indoor location out of direct sunlight and keep the medium moist but not wet. The ideal temperature is about 50°F with some indirect sunlight coming in, so a basement spot near a window might be ideal.
After eight weeks, gently pull on a cutting. It should resist, indicating that it has developed roots. It may also have developed buds or young leaves by this point. If so, there’s no need to tug on it to check!
Trim away about half of any new growth to encourage the plant to focus its energy on developing healthy roots.
All that hard work paid off, and now it’s time to put your rooted cuttings in the ground. Warning: you’re entering the danger zone! If you’re going to kill your new plant, it will likely be during this stage.
That’s because young plants grown from cuttings have fragile roots – all the more reason to use biodegradable pots to grow your new starts in, since there’s less root disturbance.
Once spring rolls around and the danger of frost has passed, harden them off for a few weeks.
To do that, take your plants outside for an hour and put them in a sheltered spot. The next day, put them in the same spot for two hours. Add an hour each day until they can stay outside all day.
When soil temperatures reach 50°F, it’s time to start digging.
Gently remove a cutting from its container, but don’t tap away or remove any excess soil. Try to keep the soil ball as intact as possible.
Dig a hole that is twice the width of the existing root ball. Lower the cutting in place and fill around it with new soil.
Using a peat container or CowPot™? Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and plant it, pot and all, in the ground. Fill in around it with soil.
Then, treat it as you would an existing elderberry bush. Not sure how to do that? Our elderberry growing guide has got your back.
Just keep in mind that a young cutting has a small root system, so you need to be diligent about keeping the soil moist.
If you want to skip the extra work of transplanting, you can put cuttings directly in the garden.
Since it’s best to take cuttings in the winter or early spring, you may need to store them until you can plant them.
If this is the case, wrap the branches loosely in plastic and put them in a cool, dark spot until it’s time to plant. They can be stored this way for up to six months.
Then, once the soil is workable and all chance of frost has passed in the spring, soak the cuttings in water for about an hour before planting.
If you live in an area where the soil can be worked in the winter, you may opt to plant directly after taking the cuttings. This allows Mother Nature to decide when to let the plant break dormancy.
Regardless of when you plant, dip the cut ends in powdered rooting hormone and use a pencil or chopstick to make holes in the ground about six feet apart.
Insert each cutting into the ground so the bottom node is covered by two inches of soil.
Pack soil tightly around each cutting so it stays upright. Don’t use sticks or anything else for support. Keep the soil moist if the rain doesn’t take care of it for you.
Optionally, use a cloche and/or heap mulch around the stems to help retain soil moisture. A half inch of compost, straw, or dried grass should do the trick.
It’s also possible to root your cuttings in water, and if you feel more comfortable with this method, I say go for it.
The advantage is that you can see the roots forming so you know whether it’s working or not, and you can more easily determine when your plant is ready to be transplanted.
I’ve planted many water grown starts and have had plenty of success, so feel free to try it out and find what works best for you.
To grow in water, remove leaves from the bottom half of the cuttings, but be sure to leave at least one set of leaves at the top.
Set in a jar of water so the cutting is submerged by about half. Place in an indoor location away from direct sunlight.
Change the water every few days. You should start seeing roots develop after about a month. You’ll want to keep growing the new starts in the water for a few more weeks to ensure that the roots are strong before you transplant.
Expect fewer of your plants to survive using the water method as compared to rooting in soilless potting mix.
Once you see roots developing, and perhaps new growth forming, you can put your plants into pots filled with soil.
As described above, use either individual pots, or place multiple rooted cuttings in one large pot spaced about four to six inches apart.
Fill each container with potting soil and make holes that are large enough to accommodate the root system.
Gently lower each cutting into a hole, and bury about a third of the stem. Then, firm soil around each and water the soil so it feels like a well wrung-out sponge.
When you’re ready to plant in the garden, harden the new plants off as described for rooting in in a soilless medium above before transplanting.
Now you know the best methods for ensuring propagation of healthy new elderberry bushes from either hard or softwood cuttings.
To illustrate how easy this process is, I did a little experiment, pulling a branch from my existing mature shrub and sticking it in the soil a few feet away from the parent plant, with no additional prep and nothing in the way of attentive care.
You probably won’t be surprised to learn that the cutting rooted and took off without any help from me.
At one point before rooting, it even got knocked out of the ground by my rambunctious dogs. I stuck it back in the ground and wished it luck. By fall, I had a little elderberry bush growing.
I’m not suggesting you do the same (in terms of ignoring your cuttings – but feel free to wish them luck!). Rather, I really want to emphasize that this isn’t a plant that is going to require a high level of commitment or excessive use of all your gardening talents to keep it alive.
Now head out there and start growing! Once your elderberries are looking big and pretty, come back and share some images of your progress in the comments section below. We’d love to see how you get along!
If you’re interested to learn more about elderberries, these articles will be useful for you to read next:
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Kristine Lofgren
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Fruiting pomegranate trees, Punica granatum, are best suited to growing in hot, dry climates of USDA Hardiness Zones 7-11.
The fruits can take between five and seven months – depending on the variety – to mature and ripen, ready for picking.
Since they do not continue to ripen off the tree after they have been picked, it’s important to get the timing of your harvest just right.
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Our guide to growing pomegranates has all the details on how to cultivate these trees in your landscape. In this guide, we’ll discuss when and how to harvest your homegrown fruit.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Generally speaking, pomegranate trees will produce a reliable harvest two to three years after planting.
They flower from midspring into fall, and fruits that are set in March or April will be ready for harvest between August and October, depending on the variety.
It’s important to note that because pomegranate plants bloom in two to three cycles throughout the spring and summer, though some fruits may be ready to harvest, others may still need more time.
Plan to make a trip out to the garden frequently during harvest season, to check on your crop and pick what’s ripe.
When you go out to harvest your fruit, you’ll need to know how to identify which ones are ready to pick and which ones should be left on the tree to continue ripening.
You’ll notice three primary visual cues when the fruits are ready for harvest:
When they are ripe, rather than being round like a ball, the shape will change, taking on a boxier, flat-sided appearance.
This is because the arils on the interior are filling out with flesh, and pushing against the inner chambers. The fruits have a somewhat hexagonal shape when they are fully ripe.
The outer texture of the skin will appear smoother, with a leathery feel, as the interior of the fruit fills out completely.
The exterior color will be its deepest for the particular variety you’re growing. For example, some yellow or pink varieties may change from green to their final mature color, while red varieties may change from pink to a deeper red.
You should also inspect the area around the stem end of the fruit. If it’s pale, yellow, or greenish in color, this can be a sign that the fruit is not properly ripe.
Because the plump arils have filled the interior at this point, you’ll notice that the pomegranates feel heavy for their size when they’re ready to pick, and tapping on the outside will produce a dull, slightly hollow thud.
Fruit that has been left on the tree too long may start to split open which can attract pests. You can learn more about why pomegranates split open on the tree in our guide.
If you do happen to accidentally collect a fruit that is not fully ripe, you’ll realize pretty quickly once you cut it open. The arils inside will be extremely hard and pale, and more opaque than they should be.
The pithy sections between the seeds may also be yellow or green rather than white in those that have not matured fully.
Before harvesting, you should pull on some thick gardening gloves. Pomegranate trees and shrubs produce large thorns that can puncture the skin, so be sure to handle plants with care to avoid being injured.
It’s best to cut the fruits free rather than pulling them off the branches because pulling can cause damage, making the plant more susceptible to disease or leading to die-off of the damaged portions.
Use a set of clean, sharp garden shears and clip the stems close to the fruit. The stems are rather woody, and leaving a long stem intact could potentially cause damage to others if you’re harvesting several at a time.
Place the pomegranate carefully into a basket or bucket rather than just tossing it in, to prevent bruising.
Any that have split or been chewed by animals should be discarded, as they can harbor fungi and other disease pathogens that you may not be able to see with the naked eye.
If you’ve applied pesticides, you may want to wash the fruits prior to storing, but be sure to allow them adequate time and exposure to airflow so they dry completely before they are stored.
Moisture can lead to rotting or mold development.
Pomegranates will generally stay fresh for two to three months when stored at temperatures of between 32 and 40°F. At room temperature, it’s best to use them in one to two weeks.
If you cut them open and remove the arils, these will typically last about five days in the refrigerator.
You can also freeze the arils by spreading them on a baking tray or cookie sheet and placing it in the freezer for a couple of hours. Transfer the frozen arils into a zip-top bag or sealed storage container.
They will keep for up to a year in the freezer.
If you’ve waited for months for your fruits to ripen, it can be tempting to rush through the process of harvesting.
Don’t succumb to temptation and hurry though – use care when collecting those long-awaited fruits so they not only taste great, but store well for months too.
You’ll be rewarded with tart and tasty fruits that are ready to eat, or to process and add to a wide array of recipes. Treat yourself to a smoothie or make some fresh juice, and you’ll see that it was worth the wait!
What are your favorite ways to prepare pomegranates? Share some recipes or prep tips with us in the comments below, and feel free to reach out if you have any questions about picking your crop.
And for more information on growing pomegranates in your garden, have a read of these guides next:
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Kelly Spicer
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Susanna estimates she has 50 to 60 pots in her side return. “Go for a few really big planters or pots; the bigger the better as you can plant big plants and make more of an impact,” says Susanna, who has a couple that are around 1.2m long and 60cm high and 35cm wide (approximately 4’ long and 2’ high and 1’ wide). “You can plant up miniature gardens in them using a mix of evergreens, perennials, and spring bulbs.” Plus, she notes, lots of small pots look fussy and need lots of watering.
Susanna says you should use the same mix of bulbs, shrubs, climbers, perennials, and edibles that you’d find in any garden—even small trees. For example, a couple of years ago, Susanna decided to add some small bare-root spindle trees (Euonymus europaeus) to create a true forest garden.
For climbers, Susanna employed golden hops, Clematis alpina, and a climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris). Her shrubs include Rubus sanguineum (red flowering currant), Sorbaria sorbarifolia ‘Sem’ (Ural false spirea), and Ligustrum ovafolium (also known as Korean or California privet). There are mainly ferns (including those mentioned above) at the bottom of the steps where it’s darkest. (There are also a variety of spring bulbs in the mix not seen here.) Susanna says her current favorite plants are the Persicaria orientalis, Korean celery (Dystaenia takesimana), and what she describes as “a really lovely” Valeriana jatamansi.
Susanna confesses that she’s “slack at watering,” but she does have a tap nearby. With this many pots, you’ll definitely want a hose that can comfortably reach your alley or side return. “It doesn’t get much better than a huge, fat, vintage terracotta pot, but they do dry out faster, and they can crack in winter.”
“Think about winter, I don’t have lots of evergreen but I do have enough that, along with the grasses and ferns means it still looks nice over that season,” says Susanna, who has a couple of tree fern (Dicksonia antarctica), which she says “give a great canopy.”
“Obviously you will struggle to plant a prairie style garden in a dark corridor but there is a lot that will grow in reduced light which you might not think would work,” says Susanna. Move things around, go for different heights and textures, and don’t get discouraged if a plant fails to thrive.
For more shady gardening inspiration, check out Susanna Grant’s book Shade.
See also:
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We’re visiting Catherine’s Dickerson’s garden today in San Diego. We’ve visited before (A Little Slice of Heaven in San Diego), and it is always a pleasure to see what is growing there.
This is our year of volunteers! They have added a wonderful richness to the garden. The forget-me-nots are ubiquitous every year, but this year they’ve been joined by the rich purple-blue lobelia. Poppies and lunaria are doing their best to keep up. These are not plants that simply reseeded, but ones that are coming up in places as distant from the original plant as you can get in a little 1/4-acre garden.
My husband spreads mulch twice a year, and the resulting soil is delicious. The rains this year helped as well.
The only plants named in the pictures below that I actually planted are the Shasta daisies, the alstroemeria, the pink geranium, and the pink cosmos, together in one picture. Almost everything else named came up as happy surprises. Our response: “Welcome! Please make yourself at home!” And boy, have they.
Johnny jump-ups (Viola tricolor, annual) living up to their name in our front path
A true geranium (Geranium sanguineum, Zones 3–9), lots of lobelia (Lobelia erinus, Zones 10–11 or as an annual), a peak of pink cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus, annual), and a beautiful yellow snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus, Zones 7–10 or as an annual) that volunteered right in front! The soon-to-be white Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum × superbum, Zones 5–9) in the lower left are from Luther Burbank’s home in Santa Rosa—a lovely place to visit!
Nemesia from the backyard, now in front with . . . lobelia! The pink is Alstroemeria.
Red valerian (Centranthus ruber, Zones 4–9) was flown or blown over from a neighbor’s yard, along with annual poppies (Papaver somniferum, annual). These volunteer poppies have popped up around the back and front yards and are the best I’ve ever grown—though I can’t actually say that I grew them!
More lobelia, intermingled with white alyssum (Lobularia maritima, Zones 9–11 or as an annual)
Cineraria (Pericallus × hybrida, Zones 9–11)! The nurseries here in San Diego only carry the shorter versions; these tall ones (30 inches or more) originated from Annie’s Annuals in northern California. A little pink polka-dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) volunteered nearby. Lush leaves from Bergenia (Zones 3–8) planted years ago are in the lower right.
Strawberries! They were being devoured by slugs on the ground, so I stuffed them into this pot. Snow peas are growing behind them.
A combination of pink evening primrose (Oenothera speciosa, Zones 4–9) and purple toadflax (Linaria purpurea, Zones 5–9), of unknown origin, both of which will try to take over the garden. I’ve already pulled out dozens of them.
Thank you for letting me share these surprise delights. Gardening is absolutely the most rewarding activity I know.
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
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There is no single answer to the question, “What type of pot is best for orchids?” There are many different types of orchids, and they have different needs regarding pots, substrate, and culture in general.
For example, epiphytic orchids, such as Phalaenopsis, do best in plastic pots with lots of drainage possibilities.
Terrestrial orchids do well in terracotta pots that protect their roots and provide good air circulation. These are by no means the only possibilities.
In this article, we’ll explore how to choose the best pot for your orchids. Read on to learn more.
Both epiphytic and terrestrial orchids come from warm settings that experience frequent rains and provide excellent drainage, so soak-and-dry watering is the best plan for keeping your orchids well-watered regardless of the type of orchid or the type of pot.
It is best to wait until the substrate is fairly dry and then thoroughly water, allowing the water to run freely through the substrate.
Indeed, excellent drainage is key to growing healthy, happy orchids and most other plants. No matter what your orchid pot is made of, it should have good drainage that allows excess moisture to pour through the substrate.
Even though it may seem as if the water is pouring through too rapidly for the plant to be able to use it, it’s important to keep in mind that this is natural for most orchids.
They cannot tolerate standing in water, and root rot is bound to develop if the substrate is kept too wet.
Orchid containers with many small drainage holes in the bottom and some on the sides are best. This arrangement allows excellent drainage and good air circulation, just as in nature.
Even a mesh container or a plastic basket can make an ideal orchid container. In fact, no matter what material your orchid container is made of, drainage is really the most important element.
In nature, epiphytic orchids live in jungle settings where daily rains are the norm. There are many types of epiphytic orchids, but Phalaenopsis, or Moth Orchid, is the most popular and readily available.
As with air plants, epiphytic orchids glean nourishment and moisture from the air around them. In nature, they attach themselves to the bark of trees and clamber up to get the right amount of sunlight, rain, drainage, and air circulation.
Phalaenopsis’ roots are not sunk into the soil. Instead, they are exposed to sunlight and rain and gather nutrients from the air and from bits of debris that collect around the roots.
A good pot for Phalaenopsis should mimic these sorts of conditions. This is why epiphytic orchids do very well in clear plastic pots equipped with lots of slits and drainage holes.
A loose, airy orchid substrate consisting of bark and fiber makes an ideal setting for the plants’ roots. This arrangement allows good air circulation and sun exposure for the roots and lets excess moisture run off freely.
Terrestrial and semi-terrestrial orchids, such as Cymbidiums, also need lots of bright, indirect sunlight and ample drainage, but their roots can uptake nutrients from their substrate.
Outdoors, these tropical beauties typically grow in humus-rich soil on the forest floor or steep slopes with excellent drainage.
Because they need soil, they also need solid containers to hold that soil. For this reason, a terracotta pot with ample drainage holes is ideal for a terrestrial orchid.
These pots are strong enough to contain a denser potting substrate but are also porous and allow excess moisture to evaporate.
Plastic containers are typically inexpensive, lightweight, and long-lasting. As we’ve mentioned, clear plastic containers are absolutely ideal for epiphytic orchids, but clear plastic is not the only choice. They are also available in many attractive colors, shapes, and handy sizes.
It’s easy to get creative with plastic containers with “off-label” use of inexpensive baskets from the dollar store or even by repurposing the clear plastic baskets in which berries are sold.
You can use your imagination and develop many interesting ideas when using clear or opaque plastic containers for orchids.
Woven fiber or plastic mesh is also an excellent choice for containing epiphytic orchids. This material can be configured to create just the right holder for your orchid.
You can purchase mesh basket containers, cut and shape mesh bags, or mesh fabric to suit your needs.
Open weave mesh securely holds your plants’ substrate and roots in place and protects them while allowing free air, water, and sunlight flow.
Terracotta is available in many shapes and sizes and is designed with varying drainage levels. If you can find terracotta pots with side drainage slits and bottom drainage, they will be fine for your epiphytic orchids.
Standard terracotta pots with one or more drainage holes on the bottom are excellent for your terrestrial orchids.
Glazed ceramic pots can work for terrestrial orchids if they have ample drainage holes in the bottom and drainage slits or holes in the sides.
Glazed ceramic does not provide enough air circulation and drainage for terrestrial orchids without this feature.
If you want to use a glazed ceramic pot for its pretty color or design, just use it as a decorative sleeve.
Plant your orchid in a plastic basket or mesh container and then place it inside the ceramic container for display.
Remove your orchid from the decorative sleeve when watering so that excess water can run off completely. Don’t return your plant to the ceramic sleeve until most excess water drains.
DIY options are always a possibility. You can create your own pots from clear plastic bottles and containers, clear plastic berry baskets, wood, or as in this video, coconut shells!
Use your imagination, and be sure to provide plenty of drainage.
When you select a new pot for your orchid, increasing volume by only a single pot size is usually the wisest.
Most orchids like to be securely held, so the pot you choose should just contain the plants’ roots with only a little wiggle room.
If your pot is too big, your plants’ roots will be surrounded by lots of moisture-holding substrates, increasing the chances that root rot will develop.
Excessive amounts of substrate may also encourage your plant to grow more roots and leaves and discourage it from blooming.
Take care not to repot too often. Orchids prefer not to be disturbed. When you see that the plant’s roots are poking through the drainage holes or reaching out of the surface of the substrate, you know that it’s time to repot.
Generally speaking, orchids do not need frequent repotting. Most can be happy in their established containers for one-to-three years.
During this time, a healthy plant will grow lots of new roots. Simultaneously, the plants’ substrate will begin to break down, so it cannot physically support the plant.
When this happens, it’s time to repot. This is a simple matter if you follow these six steps:
1. Generally speaking, waiting until your plant has finished blooming is best before you repot it. When it’s time to repot, trim away the spent flower spike at its base.
2. Place one hand over the surface of the plants’ substrate and see if you can remove it from the pot by simply tipping it upside-down. If it just falls out into your hand, that’s best. If not, wiggle a spade or table-knife blade around the edges to loosen it up and remove it from its existing pot as gently as possible.
3. Shake excess substrate away from the roots and examine the roots carefully. Use your fingers to loosen and spread them gently if they are very packed. If the roots are clinging tenaciously to the pot or the bark medium, you may need to soak them overnight to soften them up so you can disengage them without damaging them. Rinse the roots thoroughly to remove debris and degraded bark.
4. Use a very sharp, sterile cutting implement to trim away discolored, damaged, or dead roots. If you see any signs of root rot or other fungal growth, treat the roots with an antifungal preparation, such as copper sulfate powder. You may wish to let the plant air overnight before repotting.
5. Using a new or sterilized container add a layer of potting mix that is designed for the type of orchid you have. Gently place the orchid on the potting mix and fill in with the substrate, packing it lightly around the roots.
6. Water thoroughly and allow excess moisture to drain away. This may cause the substrate to settle, so you must add a bit more to provide good support for your plant.
It’s easy to see that the choices you make in orchid containers will depend very much upon the type of orchid you have, the types of materials and containers you have available, the amount of money you want to spend, and your own personal preferences and creativity.
No matter what type of container you choose, be sure to remember that all orchids like excellent drainage, good air circulation, and just the right amount of sunshine.
Refer to this information and follow the tips to choose the perfect containers to give your orchid collection a happy home.
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Caryl
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Don’t you love showy plants that provide multiple seasons of interest?
Cotoneaster shrubs are hardworking and impressive ornamentals that provide attractive displays in three to four seasons.
Spring brings deep green foliage and small, pink, red, or white blossoms that form masses of green berries in summer.
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In fall, the small berries (known as pomes) ripen into brilliant shades of red, from bright cranberry to dark black cherry.
And many species, both deciduous and evergreen, display luminous fall colors in shades of crimson, maroon, orange, purple, scarlet, and yellow.
In most cases, the bright pomes remain on the shrub through autumn and into winter, attracting a variety of hungry songbirds.
Tough and hardy, these robust shrubs are easy to cultivate in the garden and versatile to the max. With different growth habits, including sprawling or upright, there’s one, or several, suitable for almost any location.
They can be grown as bonsai, in borders or containers, used as ground covers or hedges, espaliered to fences, foundations, and walls, or standardized into specimens. Plus, they make an excellent choice to control ground erosion on banks and slopes.
And all types produce those gorgeous berries in the fall when gardens need a boost of color the most!
So, if you like your shrubs tough and resilient, but pretty and interesting, sit back and read all about how to grow and care for cotoneaster.
Cotoneaster is a genus in the Rosaceae (rose) family native to temperate regions of Eurasia and north Africa.
The name comes from the Latin compound word of cotoneum, which means quince, and aster (resembling), which refers to their similarity to flowering quinces.
These perennial shrubs are related to hawthorns and rowans, and bear a close resemblance to the firethorn (Pyracantha) – but without the thorns.
The shrubs have a unique, dimorphic growth pattern, which means they produce long branches that provide structure to the plant and short shoots that bear the flowers and berries.
Smooth-edged leaves are arranged alternately, and can be long and ovate or small and round, and there are both deciduous and evergreen species.
Most deciduous types are cold hardy while the evergreens are better suited to cultivation in warmer regions, and both types provide striking fall colors.
Small flowers of cream, pink, red, or white appear in late spring and early summer, either singly or in large corymbs of up to 100 blooms.
Flowers often appear in the “June gap” – the time after spring flowers have finished blooming and before summer ones begin, making them highly popular with bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.
The small inedible fruits, about a quarter of an inch in diameter, contain two to five seeds and are classified as pomes, ripening to vibrant shades of bright red, orange, pink, and deep burgundy. In the case of many species, the fruit remains on the branch until the following year.
A Note of Caution: The berries are toxic to humans and animals when ingested, so keep pets and children away from them.
There are approximately 260 different Cotoneaster species, and numerous hybrid varieties.
The different species vary in size but have many similarities. All have a robust spread that’s typically three times greater than their height.
Plants are quite hardy and take in their stride a variety of harsh conditions including drought, pH fluctuations, poor soil, salt spray, and strong winter winds.
Most species are suitable for cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8 – and there’s even a species, C. lucidus, that shrugs off the cold temperatures of Zone 3!
The prostrate types, with a low growing habit, work best as woody groundcovers and feature branches that arch and dip. Where the stems touch the ground, branches will take root and form dense colonies.
Upright types have the same arching and cascading growth patterns but can be trained into hedges, screens, or standardized specimens.
Plants can grow in full to partial shade, but will develop more branches, flowers, and berries in a full sun location. And a full sun location also develops the most vivid fall colors.
Some species have escaped garden cultivation and are considered invasive in certain coastal areas in North America such as British Columbia, California, the Great Lakes states, and the Pacific Northwest, as well as in parts of Australia, New Zealand, and western Europe.
Cotoneaster multiplies quite easily and can be propagated by stem cuttings or from seed.
However, it can take up to 18 months for seeds to germinate. This makes cuttings the preferred method of propagation as they yield strong stock and quick results.
Alternatively, you can buy container or bare root plants for transplanting from garden centers and nurseries.
Seeds can be collected from ripe fruit in autumn. But for germination, they require both scarification and cold stratification.
The easiest way to scar the seeds is to mix a few berries with a quarter of a cup of landscape sand then grind the mix together in a small bowl or container, mashing the fruit and scarifying the seeds at the same time.
Sow the mix (mash, seeds, and sand) into small pots containing well-draining, gritty compost. Cover the seeds lightly, water gently then set in a cold frame or in a sheltered outdoor location for the winter. Ensure the soil stays evenly moist but not wet.
Plant out in the spring or the following fall after plants have established roots.
Rooting stem cuttings is a much quicker and more reliable method of propagation.
If you are taking cuttings from evergreen plants, you need to cut semi-hardwood stems at the end of summer.
In the case of deciduous plants, select softwood stems in midsummer.
Take cuttings of approximately six inches long and trim away leaves from the lower two-thirds of the stem.
To improve rooting, lightly scrape the lower two inches with a knife – just enough to remove the outermost layer of bark.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, shake off the excess, and place the cuttings two to three inches deep into small pots containing well-draining, gritty compost or starter soil mix.
Gently firm the cuttings in place and water lightly.
Place the containers in a cold frame or sheltered spot in the garden for the winter, and ensure the soil stays moist but not wet.
Plant out in spring after roots are established.
If you have bought a container plant from a nursery, or you have rooted your own cuttings, the best time to transplant is in fall, but spring works as well.
Dig a planting hole twice the width and depth of the root ball.
In the planting hole, mix in one to two shovelfuls of organic matter such as aged compost, leafmold, or well-rotted manure.
You can also add in some bone meal to promote fast growing, strong roots. One tablespoon is enough for small plants, you can apply two or three tablespoons for larger container plants.
To improve the drainage, you can mix in one to two shovelfuls of landscape sand or pea gravel as needed.
Gently remove the plant from the container, then untangle and remove any matted roots.
Set plants so the crown of the root ball is at ground level. If you are growing your shrub against a fence or wall, rotate plants so the best side faces out.
Backfill with the removed soil and firm in place. Water gently and regularly for their first growing season.
Cotoneasters need a full to part sun location with fertile, well-draining soil. They thrive in a variety of conditions and tolerate soils with a wide-ranging pH of 5.0 to 8.0.
Before planting, consider your site for the long term – cotoneasters don’t like being transplanted.
Once established, plants are drought tolerant but need consistent watering in their first year. Aim to provide additional irrigation when the top inch of soil is dry.
Space ground cover species three to five feet apart and hedges four to six feet apart.
When planting ground cover varieties, it’s a good idea to place a thick layer of mulch after planting for weed suppression.
Once plants start to grow and spread, weeding can be difficult due to their dense, layering branches.
You can also grow cotoneaster in containers, but you’ll need to pay attention to the mature height and width of your chosen variety, and select a pot that’s deep and wide enough to accommodate it.
Keep in mind for container-grown plants that they require more moisture than those planted in the ground and should be watered when the top inch of soil is dry, even in the case of well-established plants.
Keep the following tips in mind for strong, healthy plants:
Regular pruning helps cotoneaster to stay dense and promotes lush foliage as well as ample flowers and berries.
The best time to prune is in early spring before new growth appears, but you can also do so after flowering, just bear in mind that this will reduce the number of berries.
Remove any dead or diseased branches, cut stems all the way to the base – if you shorten them or cut mid-stem, the new growth tends to shoot straight up in the air.
If the plant has become too dense, you can also remove old stems from the center for better air circulation.
Light feeders, plants benefit from an annual application of fertilizer in spring. You can use a balanced formula such as 20-20-20 (NPK) or a high nitrogen lawn formula such as 10-5-5.
Your first decision will be whether you want to plant a ground cover, an upright type, or a hedge.
Here are some of my favorite cultivars:
A compact plant with a broad spread, the evergreen ‘Coral Beauty’ (C. dammeri) has pretty white flowers and long lasting, coral pink fruit. The glossy green leaves turn a burnished, deep bronzy-red to purple in fall.
Fast growing and fine textured, plants self-root freely and form a dense colony for an attractive groundcover, erosion control, or creeping in rockeries. Plants reach mature heights of 18 to 24 inches with a spread of five to six feet, and are hardy in Zones 5-10.
Plants are available in one-gallon pots at Nature Hills Nursery.
Low growing with glossy green leaves, ‘Cranberry’ (C. apiculatus) puts on a sensational, cascading display of pretty pink blossoms followed by bright red berries in a distinctive herringbone pattern. Striking fall colors of gold, red, and purple add to its allure.
Branches self-layer and root readily, making it highly effective as a ground cover or informal low hedge, in rockeries, spilling over retaining walls, and for erosion control. It grows up to three feet tall with a spread of six feet and is hardy in Zones 4-7.
Plants in one-gallon containers are available at Home Depot.
Bred for improved branching and fire blight resistance, the evergreen hybrid ‘Emerald Beauty’ (C. x suesicus) features beautiful, glossy leaves of emerald green, masses of white blooms in spring, and colorful orange berries in autumn.
The tight, mounding habit requires no pruning and makes an excellent, dense ground cover or low “step over” hedge. Plants are also suited to containers, rockeries, and for slope stabilization.
They reach heights of 18 to 24 inches and spread three to four feet. Hardy in Zones 5-9.
Plants are available in two-gallon containers from Nature Hills Nursery.
A deciduous shrub with upright, arching branches, ‘Peking’ (C. acutifolius var. lucidus) features shiny green foliage with delicate pink flowers that develop black pomes. And it puts on a sumptuous fall display in luminous shades of orange, scarlet, purple, and yellow.
The tall plants mature into a pretty rounded shape and make an excellent choice for informal hedges, a screen plant, espaliered on walls, or trimmed into a tightly sheared hedge.
It reaches a mature height of eight to 10 feet with a spread of five to six feet and is hardy in Zones 3-7.
Three- to four-feet tall bare root plants are available at Nature Hills Nursery.
A dwarf creeping variety, ‘Tom Thumb’ (C. adpressus) is deciduous to semi-evergreen with deep green, glossy leaves that turn vivid shades of crimson in fall. It rarely flowers or produces fruit, but when they do appear, the flowers are pinky white followed by small, bright red fruit.
The compact plants become very dense from self-rooting and make an attractive groundcover or can be grown as a featured specimen in containers and rockeries. Expect mature heights of 12 to 24 inches with a spread of four to six feet. Hardy in Zones 4-7.
Plants are available in one-gallon containers at Nature Hills Nursery.
Want More Options?
Then check our our guide: 21 of the Best Cotoneaster Varieties for Ground Covers, Hedges, and More.
Deer and rabbits leave cotoneaster alone, and plants are not typically bothered by many pest or disease issues, but there are a few you’ll need to keep an eye out for.
Occasionally, pests like aphids and armored scale insects, such as oystershell scale, appear in summer.
Rarely fatal, aphids are soft bodied insects that suck sap from the stems and leaves and can leave an unsightly trail of honeydew.
You can control aphids by removing them with a strong blast of water from the hose, or release beneficial predatory insects such as ladybugs or lacewings into the garden.
Learn more about how to control aphids in this guide.
Scale insects look like small, oval or round plates of various colors on stems and foliage that can weaken or destroy plants.
They can be controlled by an application of neem oil in late winter or by releasing beneficial insects in summer, like ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory wasps.
A disease called fire blight, caused by the bacterium Erwinia amylovora, can sometimes be a problem, causing damage to limbs or in severe cases, the entire plant.
In early spring, watch for cankers appearing on branches, stems, and twigs that soon ooze with a light colored substance. Later in spring, branches, and flowers will blacken and shrivel.
Infected branches must be removed and destroyed. In the case of a severe infection, the entire plant will need to be removed and destroyed.
Powdery mildew is a fungal infection that can also make an appearance, although it’s not as problematic as fire blight.
It appears as a powdery white spore growth on branches, leaves, and stems, typically in conditions when temperatures are cool and humidity is high.
You can prevent outbreaks of powdery mildew by planting in full sun, in well-draining soil, and spacing plants as recommended to provide adequate air circulation, to avoid the build up of humidity.
Learn more about powdery mildew in this guide.
Thanks to the highly ornamental red pomes and attractive fall foliage, cotoneaster is a popular choice for groundcovers, hedges, rockeries, and for underplanting shrubscapes.
Plants can be left freeform for a loose, natural look or sharply clipped into tight hedges for a more formal appearance.
The prostrate cultivars also make excellent slope stabilizers on banks or hills, with self-layering stems that create thick colonies.
Upright cultivars can be shaped into specimens and make a dramatic statement espaliered onto fences, trellises, and walls.
And they’re wonderful to grow as bonsai as well!
| Plant Type: | Woody shrub | Flower/Foliage Color: | Cream, pink, red, white; green |
| Native to: | Eurasia and north Africa | Maintenance: | Low |
| Hardiness (USDA Zone): | 3-10 | Tolerance: | Drought, salt |
| Bloom Time/Season: | Spring | Soil Type: | Loose with average fertility |
| Exposure: | Full to part sun | Soil pH: | 5.0-8.0 |
| Spacing: | 2-4 feet (groundcover), 4-5 feet (hedge) | Soil Drainage: | Well-draining |
| Planting Depth: | Same as root ball | Attracts: | Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, other insect pollinators |
| Time to Maturity: | 2-3 years | Uses: | Bees, birds, and other pollinators |
| Height: | 1-8 feet | Family: | Rosaceae |
| Spread: | 2-12 feet | Genus: | Cotoneaster |
| Water Needs: | Low (once established) | Species: | dammeri, franchetii, horizontalis, lacteus, microphyllus, simonsii |
| Common Pests: | Aphids, armored scale | Common Diseases: | Fire blight, powdery mildew |
Hardy and highly versatile, I love cotoneasters for the yeoman’s work they bring to a garden or yard.
Easily cultivated and drought resistant once established, they have a host of attractive features, from deep green foliage and delicate flowers to bright berries and fantastic fall colors.
The prostrate varieties are tough little shrubs that make handsome ground covers, creeping and spilling over container sides, retaining walls, and rockeries. And the upright cultivars are superb as hedges or specimen shrubs and add vivid splashes of color when grown against fences and walls.
Whatever type you grow full sun brings out the best berries and brightest leaf colors!
Are you growing cotoneaster? Let us know in the comments section below, and feel free to share a picture!
And for more information about growing shrubs in your garden, check out these articles next:
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Lorna Kring
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