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  • How to Grow and Care for Pomegranate Trees

    How to Grow and Care for Pomegranate Trees

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    Punica granatum

    Can you imagine being the first person to stumble upon a pomegranate growing in the wild? What must they have thought, when they found those odd globes hanging from the branches just overhead?

    When I think about all of the history that has come before us, especially in the botanical world, my imagination runs wild!

    I can’t help but think of those who came before us, spotting a curious new plant, and bringing it home to their family or colleagues to ponder over it.

    Maybe it would be delicious. Or maybe it would prove deadly.

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    I know I would’ve been eager to figure out what lay inside of it! How fortunate that our forebears sampled this once-wild fruit, with its one-of-a-kind shape, and its inner chambers bursting with nutritious, juicy gems.

    That discovery has led to thousands of years of cultivation, with the pomegranate making the rounds from one continent to another as growing numbers of gardeners, orchardists, and hungry people discovered its beauty and its unique flavor.

    In this guide, we’ll cover how to grow and care for your own pomegranates. Here’s what’s ahead:

    Before you plant those seeds or purchase plants, it’s helpful to take some time to learn about where pomegranates come from and what conditions are ideal for their health, growth, and productivity.

    What Is Pomegranate?

    In 1725, the species was named Punica granatum by Carl Linnaeus, the Swedish “father of taxonomy,” which translates to “many-seeded apple” or “grainy apple.”

    The list of common names for the fruit includes seeded apple, the apple of Grenada, and the French pomme-grenade, which is where the modern name may be derived from in English.

    A close up vertical image of ripe red pomegranates growing on tree pictured on a soft focus background.

    Pomegranates may be either deciduous or evergreen, depending on regional temperatures. While this species has a naturally shrublike habit, it’s commonly pruned into a tree form.

    The leaves are oblong and lance-shaped, smooth, and glossy. They’re typically two to three inches long.

    The foliage is interspersed with spines, or thorns, and as the tree matures, some of them can be nearly two inches long and quite sharp.

    Plants may be fruiting or ornamental, with attractive red, pink, or orange flowers.

    A close up horizontal image of bright red pomegranate flowers growing in the garden pictured in bright sunshine.

    The fruits, though named after apples, are classified as berries and unrelated to pomes.

    Instead, these plants belong to the myrtle order, along with many other popular garden plants including fuchsia, crepe myrtle, bottlebrush, evening primrose, and eucalyptus.

    Each seed inside the tough exterior, or pericarp, is surrounded by firm flesh. These are known as arils.

    The seeds can be used to propagate new plants, but will not typically grow true to the parent plant, so other methods are usually preferred.

    If you’re interested in giving this method a try, we cover it in a separate guide.

    Best grown for fruit production in dry and hot regions with summer daytime temperatures in the 70 to 90°F range, pomegranates are suitable for growing in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 to 11.

    They aren’t generally cold hardy, though you will find a few cultivars that fit the bill, and may be damaged or killed if they’re exposed to frost and temperatures below about 20°F.

    Cultivation and History

    The wild pomegranate originated in the Middle East, and is native to Persia, or modern-day Iran. The history of this fruit is long and fascinating.

    Let’s hit a few of the highlights.

    Evidence of pomegranate cultivation exists preceding recorded history, in Bronze-Age excavations from as long ago as 3,000 BCE found in Iran and the Himalayan Mountain region.

    A close up horizontal image of a mature pomegranate tree growing in an orchard pictured in bright sunshine.

    Artwork has survived from numerous ancient civilizations depicting the fruit as an important part of the cuisine and culture of ancient Persia, Rome, Greece, Egypt, and China. In many places, such as India, it was considered the food of royalty, or at the very least, a luxury item.

    The pharaohs of Egypt believed the pomegranate was so important that they commissioned illustrations of the fruit to serve as evidence of their royal status, such as in hieroglyphic paintings on the interior of pyramids and fine pottery, which they believed would accompany them into the afterlife.

    Images of the fruit were also minted on coins, featured on religious garb, and exhibited in temple paintings and carvings by artists across several cultures, including the Jewish people who lived in Jerusalem in biblical times.

    Ancient Greeks and Romans also regarded the evergreen leaves as a symbol of strength and eternal life, and as is common of fruit containing many seeds, as a symbol of fertility.

    In Greek myth, when Persephone is abducted by Hades, the fruit features as a symbol of life and regeneration, as well as marriage. You’ll see this symbolic trend repeated in other cultures, such as that of the Bedouins.

    Persian myth grants the pomegranate powers that are a bit more magical in nature, such as when Isfandiyar is granted the gift of invisibility after eating a fruit.

    Some even believe it to be the fruit of the tree of life in the book of Genesis in the Bible. And the pomegranate is one of the fruits that grows in the heavenly gardens of the Koran.

    Dig a little deeper, and you’ll see these stories go on and on, through time and space, creating a rich tapestry.

    Also known symbolically for its duality, this is a quality highlighted by its use in traditional medicine as an astringent and laxative, expectorant and antiemetic, and restorative and soporific, to name a few applications.

    Medieval doctors who prescribed cure based on the four humors regarded it as warm and moist, good for alleviating coughs, or for use as an aphrodisiac.

    Brought to Sicily and southern Spain with Muslim conquerors, its popularity spread.

    Pomegranates were introduced to the United States by way of Spanish conquistadors and traders in the mid-1700s, and over time, came to be cultivated in regions with a hot, arid climate throughout North, Central, and South America, such as parts of modern-day California and Arizona.

    In the United States, they’ve waxed and waned in popularity over the last two centuries, however, with the findings of several studies conducted within the past 20 years showing the immense nutritional value of the seeds and juice, pomegranates have become more of a mainstream food.

    They’re high in fiber and folic acid, as well as vitamins C and K.

    With vibrantly colored skins and blossoms used historically in dye-making and to create pigments for ancient cosmetics, the culinary use of the arils and dried seeds continues to this day in a variety of spices, juices, syrups, and liqueurs.

    Grenadine is flavored with pomegranate, and the fruit can also be used to make molasses.

    The leaves and flowers are also sometimes used to make tea, either dried or fresh.

    Pomegranate Propagation

    Like the majority of fruit trees, it’s not best to grow pomegranates from seed if the desired result is a clone of the parent plant.

    Other methods, such as taking cuttings or air layering from a mature plant, will produce true clones of the parent. This means both the fruit and the growth habit of the tree or shrub will be identical to the plant you wish to replicate.

    There are several possible methods to employ, and you can find comprehensive information about each of the best options for home growers in our guide to propagating pomegranates.

    The easiest way to get started with growing your own pomegranates is to purchase a plant from your local garden center or online. We’ll provide some suggestions below.

    These are available as potted saplings, or bare root plants.

    To transplant, dig a hole that’s twice as wide and the same depth as the root ball.

    If you have purchased a bare root plant, soak the roots in a bucket of water for about half an hour prior to planting.

    Remove the sapling from the container, tease out the roots with your fingers, and position it into the center of the hole. Backfill with soil, tamping down gently to remove air pockets, and water in well.

    Apply a layer of mulch around the new transplant, keeping it one to two inches away from the stem.

    Keep the soil evenly moist while the plant is becoming established.

    How to Grow Pomegranate Trees

    The spot you choose for your tree should offer around eight hours of full sun per day.

    The soil at the site should be loamy, or a mix of loam and sand, with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0. You may wish to conduct a soil test so you can plan to amend based on any deficiencies.

    Good drainage is also a must – pomegranates are known for growing best in more arid regions, and soggy soil is a sure way to invite harmful fungal pathogens, and damage the health of your plant.

    A close up vertical image of ripe red pomegranates growing on the tree pictured in bright sunshine on a blue sky background.

    For the first year after transplanting, plan to water one to two times weekly depending on the amount of rainfall you receive.

    If you’re in an area where rainfall through all or most of the year is scarce, you should plan to offer about one inch of water per week. You can use a rain gauge to measure rainfall. Mature plants are drought tolerant.

    If seasonal low temperatures in your area drop below about 20°F, you’ll need to have a plan for winterizing, or plant a variety that can be grown in a container so it can be moved to a warmer, more sheltered area throughout the colder months.

    It’s also helpful to know that these plants are monoecious, meaning they are self-pollinating. They produce both male and male-female blossoms, called “perfect” blossoms.

    The perfect blossoms are the ones that will ultimately produce fruit.

    It’s not necessary to plant more than one tree, however, it can still be helpful to plant a small grouping of two to three for the best pollination and yields.

    Remember that these plants can have a spread of more than 15 feet, so be sure to allow adequate spacing between them.

    Pomegranates can also be grown more closely together as a hedge, with appropriate pruning to allow for proper airflow.

    We’ll cover some of the most popular varieties later on. No matter which variety you choose, you’ll most likely want to keep it shapely and neat, and you’ll do that by pruning it periodically.

    Growing Tips

    • Select a location for planting with full sun exposure and loamy soil, or sandy loam.
    • Provide supplemental water through the first year of growth, until plants become established.
    • Be sure to allow adequate spacing between trees and away from structures and other plants, as standards can grow to be very large. Otherwise, select a dwarf cultivar.

    Pruning and Maintenance

    As previously mentioned, pomegranates naturally grow in a shrub form, and can reach 15 to 20 feet in height, with nearly the same spread.

    It’s best to wait until after the first year of the plant’s life to prune, to allow time for it to become established.

    A close up horizontal image of a pomegranate tree growing in a shrub-like form laden with bright orange flowers.

    If you prefer to shape the plant into a tree form, you can choose three to five of the strongest vertical branches in the second year, and trim the rest out along with the smaller branches that are below the desired size and shape of the canopy.

    We cover this in more detail in our guide to pruning pomegranates. (coming soon!)

    Suckers should be pruned away each year, as they will drain energy from the plant with no benefit. These can also be propagated to start new plants, if you wish.

    Plan to prune in late winter. Active growth takes place in early to mid-spring, and blooming occurs from spring through fall in most areas.

    Throughout the blooming season, pomegranate trees will produce new blossoms in at least three cycles. The blooms are formed on the ends of the branches.

    These blossoms can continue to set fruit throughout the season, but those that develop later will typically be smaller in size, and may not ripen fully prior to the end of fall, depending on your climate.

    You’ll want to avoid pruning after the plant begins forming buds, as cutting these away will result in reduced fruit production.

    In late winter, remove any damaged parts that have not survived the cold months, making way for fresh growth in the spring, as well as any crossing, downward-growing, or diseased branches.

    This will also help to keep the size and shape of the tree or shrub manageable throughout the remainder of the year.

    Keeping the plant trimmed for shape aids in ease of harvesting as well – otherwise, you’ll be wading into a thorn bush to gather fruit. It also opens up space in the canopy so light and air can penetrate, keeping the plant healthier and allowing fruits to ripen better.

    It’s important to note that if you’re allowing the shrub to grow in its natural form, it may harbor excess humidity, and that can reduce blooming and lead to blossom drop.

    Even without pruning for shape, you’ll still want to keep the plant open by pruning to allow for adequate airflow.

    A horizontal image of a pomegranate tree growing in a formal garden with lawns, hedging, and trees in the background.

    You may see other sources of information recommending summer pruning. While it is possible to prune in the summer, that’s also the time of year when your tree or shrub will be heavy with setting fruit.

    This is not the ideal time to cut it back unless you have an important reason, such as serious damage from disease or infestation.

    To maintain plant shape, plan to cut back no more than six to eight inches from the branches prior to the onset of budding, and no more than a third of the branches at a time.

    Bear in mind that, with complete pollination, each blossom may result in a fruit that can weigh between one-quarter and three-quarters of a pound, depending on the variety.

    Pomegranate trees are not known for being weight-bearing, and too many fruits per branch can lead to trouble, particularly in fragile young trees.

    If you notice that the branches of the tree are so heavy that they’re drooping, pinch off some of the remaining blossoms, or even a few immature fruits, to reduce the strain before the branch cracks.

    Fruit is also prone to cracking when rainfall and water availability fluctuate. There are other reasons why the fruit might split, and you can learn more about them in our guide.

    A close up horizontal image of a pomegranate fruit that has split before harvesting, pictured in light filtered sunshine.

    Any fruit that has not ripened completely before the end of the growing season should be pruned from the tree to prevent pests or disease from overwintering there, or being attracted to the tree.

    Immature fruits can be composted as long as no signs of disease or pest damage are present, but you’ll want to cut them open to inspect the interior before introducing them to your compost pile.

    If you prefer not to compost them or you see signs of damage, such as black or brown spots, mold, mildew, or visible pests, you can discard them in a well-sealed trash bag instead.

    Fertilizer should be applied sparingly and only if you’ve noticed signs of nutrient deficiency. Learn more about fertilizing pomegranates in our guide.

    Cultivars to Select

    There is a long list of hundreds of named pomegranate cultivars in existence.

    While some are better used for dye, or dried and ground to produce powdered spices used in dishes with rich flavor, such as those popular in Middle Eastern, Pakistani, and Indian cuisine, others are better known for their distinctive flavors or fruit color and form, such as purple or yellow varieties.

    Purple Heart

    This cultivar is also known as ‘Sharp Velvet.’ Fruits are large and red, with sweet arils and low acidity. They’re typically ready for harvest in October.

    A close up square image of a 'Purple Heart' pomegranate growing on the tree ready for harvest.

    ‘Purple Heart’

    ‘Purple Heart’ can grow up to 30 feet tall in ideal conditions. It’s well suited for use as a privacy hedge, or it may be trained to grow as an individual tree.

    Plants are available in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Red Silk

    The ‘Red Silk’ variety is known for having a pericarp that is more pink than red, and a medium to large fruit size.

    The arils offer a blend of sweetness and tartness, with a flavor that is reminiscent of red berries. Fruits are typically ready for harvest in September.

    A close up square image of whole and opened 'Red Silk' pomegranates on a fabric surface.

    ‘Red Silk’

    This dwarf cultivar has a shorter, smaller growth habit, reaching 18 feet at maturity. This makes it suitable for growing in smaller spaces, or in containers with pruning.

    ‘Red Silk’ plants are available in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Wonderful

    ‘Wonderful’ is the variety most commonly sold in grocery stores. It reaches a mature height of 15 to 20 feet with a similar spread and is a prolific producer.

    A close up square image of a 'Wonderful' pomegranate ready for harvest with foliage and flowers in soft focus in the background.

    ‘Wonderful’

    The large, deep red fruits reveal arils with a hard texture and a sweet-tart flavor and are ready to harvest in September to October.

    You can find ‘Wonderful’ trees in one-gallon pots available from Yarden.

    Want More Options?

    If you’re looking for a longer list of options to consider for your home or garden, take a look at our roundup of fruiting varieties to grow at home.

    Managing Pests and Disease

    Pomegranates are less prone to pests and diseases than many types of fruit trees, provided they are planted in a suitable climate and given proper care.

    The list of unwanted guests that you might see is short, and includes the likes of squirrels, aphids, leaf-footed bugs, and leafroller caterpillars.

    Squirrels can be a real challenge to deal with, but most of the time, you can at least reduce the amount of fruit lost to them using methods such as wrapping developing fruit with barrier bags, and installing decoys of predatory animals to scare them off.

    Insect pests can also be an annoyance in the case of minor infestations, though they may cause major crop losses when infestations are severe.

    Diseases that affect pomegranates can be difficult to manage, such as cercospora fungus and heart rot.

    Any time your plants show signs of illness or pest damage, such as leaf and bud drop, discoloration, or chewed fruit or leaves, it’s best to take quick action to assess the situation and develop a plan to prevent further damage.

    We share more details about how to identify, prevent, and manage pest and disease issues in our comprehensive guide.

    Harvesting Pomegranate Fruit

    Aside from pruning, the toughest part of caring for a pomegranate tree or shrub is perhaps waiting for the harvest.

    Depending upon the variety, the fruits can take anywhere from five to seven months to ripen and mature. Trees typically produce a harvestable crop starting two to five years after planting.

    A close up horizontal image of ripe red pomegranates ready for harvest pictured on a soft focus background.

    It can also be somewhat challenging to tell if the fruits are ripe, as they may not visibly change much throughout the last couple months of growth – unless you know what to look for.

    Generally speaking, fruits that are set in March or April will be ready for harvest between August and October. Be sure to check the specifics for your selected cultivar and growing region.

    You’ll notice three primary changes when the fruits are ripe for harvest: the shape of the pericarp, which will become more angular; the smoother texture and deeper color of the skin; and the heavier weight of the fruit.

    Pull on a pair of heavy gloves and plan to harvest with great care to avoid being poked by sharp thorns. Don’t pull fruits off of the branches, as this method of harvest can cause damage.

    Instead, use a set of sharp garden shears and snip the stems close to the fruit. Carefully place the fruit into your hod or another collection container of your choice to avoid bruising or scuffing.

    While varieties grown commercially are better able to withstand a few pokes or bumps, other cultivars may prove to be more tender – even a long stem jabbing into its neighbor in the basket may cause minor damage.

    For more detailed information, read our guide to harvesting pomegranates.

    If you wish to use the flowers for tea making, plan to collect male blossoms that will not produce fruit, plucking them from the branches just after they open.

    You can tell the difference between the two because the male blossoms are slightly smaller and shaped like a bell, whereas the perfect blossoms which produce fruit after pollination have a more bulbous shape at the base, which contains the ovary.

    Leaves can be harvested at any time while they are still green and fresh on the tree.

    Storing and Preserving

    While they’re long-keepers, pomegranates need to be stored under proper conditions for best results. They’ll generally remain fresh for one to two weeks when kept at room temperature, out of direct sunlight.

    Refrigeration is best for long storage, at a temperature between 32 and 40°F.

    A close up horizontal image of a whole and cut open pomegranate set on a wooden surface.

    If they’re kept cool and dry, you can expect whole fruits to remain fresh for about two to three months. Wash them just before using.

    You can also cut them open and remove the arils for storage so they’re ready to eat when you want them. You can store them fresh in the refrigerator for about five days.

    Keep in mind that the juice can stain skin, clothes, and work surfaces, so you may want to use stainless steel utensils and bowls, and wear gloves if you have a lot of fruits to process.

    To freeze, spread fresh arils out onto a cookie sheet covered in waxed paper and pop them into the freezer for about one to two hours. Transfer them to a freezer bag and freeze them for up to a year.

    A close up horizontal image of a pomegranate that has been cut open to reveal the arils inside.

    Arils can be processed to make juice, jam, jelly, or grenadine syrup, all of which can be used immediately or pressure canned for long-term storage. Fresh juice can be stored in the refrigerator for about a week.

    Blossoms and leaves can be sun-dried or dehydrated and stored in an air-tight container, or used fresh to make tea.

    Fresh blossoms and leaves that will not be dried or processed in some other way for storage should be used immediately.

    We recommend an Excalibur dehydrator to extend the shelf life of your dehydrated foods, like this four-tray model, available via Amazon.

    Excalibur Four-Tray Dehydrator

    If you’re in the market for a good dehydrator, check out this guide to the best models from our sister site, Foodal.

    A dried spice – known as anardana in Hindi, Punjabi, and Urdu, which is derived from the Persian anar, and known by many other names as well – is produced by dehydrating or sun-drying arils and crushing them into powder either by hand or with a food processor.

    Dehydrated fruit that’s been processed into powder can be stored for several years in an airtight container. You can place it in the freezer, or store in a cool, dark, dry location such as a pantry.

    Lumps are a sign that the powder has absorbed moisture, which can lead to spoilage.

    Recipes and Cooking Ideas

    First and foremost, you may need to know how to prepare a pomegranate for use in recipes or to eat the seeds alone. You can find information on preparing pomegranates on our sister site, Foodal.

    A close up horizontal image of a white bowl filled with pomegranate arils.
    Photo by Nikki Cervone.

    If you’re a fan of uniquely flavored beverages with a tart kick, you can blend pomegranates and blueberries in a fun and refreshing blueberry pomegranate chia fresca. Find the recipe for this tasty blend on Foodal as well.

    A close up horizontal image of two glasses of blueberry pomegranate chia fresca set on a wooden surface pictured on a soft focus background.
    Photo by Fanny Slater.

    Since the fruits are harvested primarily in the fall, they make a perfect addition to the cranberry sauce that you might serve with seasonal holiday meals – or anytime! Get the recipe from Foodal here.

    Whether sweet or savory, the fruit and the dried spice powder can be used in a variety of dishes, wherever you’re looking to add a punch of sweet-tart flavor. The arils also make a tasty garnish on salads, rice, and poultry dishes.

    Young, tender leaves are best for fresh eating in salads and smoothies. Cooked, some growers like to use pomegranate leaves as an alternative to spinach.

    Older, glossy leaves are more fibrous and these should always be cooked before eating.

    Quick Reference Growing Guide

    Plant Type: Deciduous fruiting shrub or tree Water Needs: Low to moderate
    Native to: Middle East Maintenance: Moderate
    Hardiness (USDA Zone): 7-11 Tolerance: Acid soil, drought
    Season: Fall Soil Type: Loam, sandy loam
    Exposure: Full sun Soil pH: 5.5-7.0
    Time to Maturity: 3-5 years Soil Drainage: Well-draining
    Spacing: 10-20 feet Companion Planting: Basil, blackberries, blueberries, chamomile, celery, dill, elderberries, garlic, lavender, lemongrass, marigolds, mint, nasturtiums, parsley, raspberries, sage, strawberries, thyme
    Planting Depth: 1/2 inch (seeds), depth of root ball (transplants) Order: Myrtales
    Height: 15-20 feet Family: Lythraceae
    Spread: 15-20 feet Genus: Punica
    Common Pests and Diseases: Aphids, citrus flat mites, leaf-footed bugs, leafroller caterpillars, mealybugs, scale, squirrels, thrips; botrytis, cercospora leaf spot, heart rot, powdery mildew, root and collar rot Species: Granatum

    Plant a Bit of History for Delicious, Nutritious Fall Fruits!

    When a fruit has survived the ages, being cultivated continuously from one generation to the next, you can bet it’s because of more than just flavor.

    A close up horizontal image of ripe pomegranates growing on the tree pictured on a blue sky background.

    And indeed, in addition to its ornamental beauty and the ability to use it as a hedge or a tree in the garden, the pomegranate offers so many uses via its fruit, leaves, and flowers that you’ll have lots to explore.

    If you’ve grown pomegranates before, we’d love to hear about some of your favorite recipes in the comments below! Share photos of your trees as well, if you’d like – we’d love to see them!

    And for more information on growing fruit trees in your garden, have a read of these guides next:

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    Kelly Spicer

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  • Plants and People: Green Relationship Advice for Gardeners – Garden Therapy

    Plants and People: Green Relationship Advice for Gardeners – Garden Therapy

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    If I know one thing, it’s that my garden is my one true love. There’s no one out there who can lift my spirits and welcome me so openly as the plants in my backyard. There’s a power connection between plants and people. Here’s how you can nurture your plant connections into a symbiotic relationship.

    Plants and people are much more connected than you might think. A quick walk outside can immediately boost the spirits. What was once a moody, stressful day can quickly turn around after experiencing a little bit of greenery in your life.

    A little while ago, I got this amazing question:

    How can we emphasize the human need to be connected to plants and earth?

    Humans are innately attracted to plants and nature. After all, we rely on it to survive! But if we want to deepen that plant connection, how do we do so?

    The truth is…it just happens. The more time we spend with our plants and nature, the more connected we are to it. The more we learn about it, the more we want to be a part of it and protect it.

    Here’s some food for thought about how plants and people are connected.

    This post will talk about…

    kid with sunflower, people and plants
    Children can also experience the benefits of nature. Get them started while they’re young!

    Humans are just one piece of the puzzle. We like to think that nature revolves around us, but the truth is that plants, people, animals, and insects are all part of a community.

    One book that fascinated me was The Hidden Life of Trees by Peter Wohlleben. He spoke of a tree being cut down more than 400 years ago but kept alive by neighbouring trees through the root system. Perhaps it was so the other trees could rely on the tree’s genetic memory for trauma like droughts or pets, or perhaps it was just to be social.

    We can learn so much from nature by seeing how it communicates and supports one another. And when we watch and listen to nature, we understand the value of forming relationships with our greater, natural community.

    Imagine going out of your way to make a bee-friendly garden. You add tons of native plants that flower throughout the season. They stop by the bee bath to catch a drink, and the solitary bees make a home in the bee house you added to your fence.

    Anytime you saw a bee using your hard work, it would bring you so much joy. A smile would cross your face knowing that you successfully helped the wildlife in your neighbourhood.

    Nourish Your Mind, Body, Spirit

    Do you have a plant baby? The hashtag #plantbabies has over 370,000 posts attached to it on Instagram. On Tik Tok, it has 35.9 million views. I never really thought plants could be trendy, but here we are. Houseplants are in!

    Many younger, newer plant parents are getting very attached to plants, and really, who can blame them?

    It just goes to show that these living beings do support and feed us. From how they make us feel emotionally to how they can improve our health as food or medicine, they do so much to nourish us.

    Houseplants in the home are scientifically proven to lower stress levels, sharpen your attention, ease depression and anxiety, and boost productivity. Therapists use horticultural therapy to aid people in their recovery by engaging in gardening or plant-based activities.

    Plants physically work with our biology, feeding us in many more ways than food.

    handful of soil showing the powerful relationship between plants and people
    Getting your hands dirty is good for your mental health. Really!

    Listen to the Plants

    It is believed in herbalism that plants show us what they can be used for. For instance, a rose petal has a soft, satin texture that tells us that it’s very well suited for the skin on our face. Roses are known to even out skin tone, soothe irritation, reduce puffiness, treat acne, and even reduce wrinkles.

    Or have you ever noticed that walnut looks like little brains? They’re an amazing brain food. Eating walnuts is proven to help aid in better cognitive performance and memory.

    Nature has all kinds of little messages out there. The plants don’t see us as anything different from them but as another member of the ecosystem. However, we think of ourselves as superior because we have consciousness.

    In a New Yorker article, Peter Wohlleben said, “Most problems come from ranking, between humans, between nations, and between people and nature. Leave the ranking aside. Every life is valuable.”

    Mason jar filled with pink rose water, sitting on top of wooden table with dried rose petals and a fresh rose
    One of the ways I use roses for skincare is by making rose water.

    Implementing Regenerative Practices

    I hate to say it, but, gosh darn, humans are entitled. We think that we must use everything. Or it’s up to protect and harvest nature for it to thrive.

    But what happens when you remove us from nature? It does better. It heals from our destruction and thrives on its own, as Mother Nature has been doing since the beginning.

    If there’s a space, nature will work to fill it. What we think are weeds in the garden are actually soil fixers and plants working to create life where there is none.

    We don’t have to be the director of a system. Instead, we can be a member of a greater, self-sufficient system. Regenerative gardening embraces the idea that our gardens can be beautiful, self-sufficient spaces that work with the ecosystem rather than against it.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Plants and People

    What do humans and plants share?

    Plants and humans both have essential needs. Like us, plants need nutrients, water, light, space, and the right temperature. They resemble our basic needs of food, water, shelter, and security.

    Plants and people share an ecosystem. Plants take from us our CO2 and, in turn, provide us with food, medicine, clothing, shelter, and joy. Remember, people need plants, but plants don’t need people!

    How do plants help people?

    Many studies have shown that being out in nature improves mental health. All it takes is being outside to begin reaping the results. Nature and working with plants can help to lessen symptoms of anxiety and depression and lower stress levels.

    Besides the mental benefits, we also rely on plants for our survival. We need them to eat and shelter us and provide us with medicine when we’re sick.

    Stephanie in garden, plants and people

    What advice do you have for those looking to deepen their relationship with plants? Let me know in the comments below. Plants and people belong together!

    More Ways to Connect With Plants

    Pin image for the connection between plants and people and how to connect with your garden

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Goutweed: How to Get Rid of Invasive Ground Elder

    Goutweed: How to Get Rid of Invasive Ground Elder

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    Did I mention the support group? Goutweed can spread over two feet per year. It forms dense mats that smother anything in its path and crowds out native plants and tree saplings, effectively killing a forest by stopping its regeneration process. The variegated variety is slightly less aggressive than the green variety. However the variegated can revert to the green variety at any time.

    What makes goutweed so hard to eradicate?

    Above: Goutweed’s pretty umbel flowers belie its evil, aggressive roots. Photograph by Melinda Young Stuart via Flickr.

    Its ability to grow from a root fragment. It shares this trait with other aggressive invasives such as Japanese knotweed, bamboo, and lesser celandine.

    How do you get rid of goutweed?

    Goutweed is still sold at nurseries. We found this Bishop’s Weed at Wholesale Nursery Co. for $90 for 100 plants. This variegated version is less of a bully, but it can turn all green and become more aggressive.
    Above: Goutweed is still sold at nurseries. We found this Bishop’s Weed at Wholesale Nursery Co. for $90 for 100 plants. This variegated version is less of a bully, but it can turn all green and become more aggressive.

    Prevention is the best defense. Don’t buy it. Be careful of gifted plants. Know your plants and do your research. Learn to distinguish between the lookalikes, such as golden Alexander, a native and a keeper! That said, if you’ve unwittingly welcomed it onto your property, here are strategies to eradicate it.

    • Physical removal. Hand-pull or dig up the plants, roots and all. While this is hard and could take years, it is the only option if you have trees or plants within the infestation that you want to keep. Pulling it in midsummer is the perfect time, as that’s when the plant has the least amount of carbohydrates in its roots, making it at its weakest. Never ever till the soil. Tilling will create root fragments and those root fragments will become new goutweed. Throw the plant material in the trash. Do not compost it. Your home compost may not get hot enough to kill it and you could end up spreading it all over your garden with the compost.
    • Mulching. Laying down a thick layer of mulch over the goutweed can help to knock it down to manageable level, allowing you to hand-pull whatever pops up.
    • Solarization. Placing plastic tarps or cardboard over the area can kill goutweed if left for long enough. The downside is it will kill everything, so don’t use this method near trees or plants you want to keep. (See The Garden Decoder: What Is ‘Occultation’? to learn the difference between solarization and occultation.)
    • Herbicides. This should be the very last resort because of collateral damage to other plants in your garden. Follow the directions exactly.

    Don’t forget to fill the the now empty space with desirable plants to crowd out the remaining stranglers. Pick native plants that do well in the conditions you have and keep plucking out the goutweed sprouts. Because there will be. You can do it!

    If you spot goutweed growing wild (and chances are you will), see:

    For more on invasive plants, see:

    (Visited 4 times, 4 visits today)

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  • Keith’s Japanese-Inspired Garden – FineGardening

    Keith’s Japanese-Inspired Garden – FineGardening

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    Keith Irvine, in chilly Zone 3 in Canada, shared his gorgeous vegetable garden with us last week (Keith’s Vegetable Garden), and today we’re visiting a different section of the garden.

    The Japanese Garden was built in the area where we had formerly raised chickens. The original chicken coop is still standing and is now covered by climbing Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia, Zones 3–9) and hops vines (Humulus lupulus, Zones 3–8 ), forming the back boundary of the garden. A low border of Barkman Concrete Roman Stack Stone defines the entry to the garden. An open pagoda forms the central focal point. A network of boardwalks provides a path through the pagoda and over a bridge to the back exit. Other Japanese elements include a concrete lantern, Buddha, bamboo rails, and a beautiful granite bench given to me as a retirement gift from my employer and coworkers.

    close up of distress sign with Japanese letters next to colorful foliage plantsSmall, but contributing to the theme in a major way, is this sign that one of my daughters made for me to christen the garden. She tells me it says “Growth” and “Nature.” I can’t remember which is which.

    foliage plants in pots under a pagodaThis 2018 photo is one of the better plantings of the pots adorning the deck under the pagoda.


    close up of container with various colorful foliage plants
    I believe this front entry pot from 2019 is probably the most appropriate that I have come to convey the theme. The planting consists of purple millet (Pennisetum glaucum, annual) , ‘Zinfandel’ oxalis (Oxalis vulcanicola ‘Zinfandel’, Zones 9–11 or as an annual), ‘Angel Wings’ senecio (Senecio candicans ‘Angel Wings’, Zones 8–10 or as an annual) and ‘Ascot Rainbow’ euphorbia (Euphorbia × martinii ‘Ascot Rainbow’, Zones 5–9), some of which are not regularly available in our area.

    close up of hostas and red flowers in the gardenI love how the scarlet-red tumbler impatiens (Impatiens walleriana, Zones 10–12 or as an annual) in this 2020 moss-basket planting pops against the mixed foliage and rock setting. We hauled literally tons of rock to border two open sides of this garden.

    close up of pink and purple peoniesThe early spring blooms of Japanese tree peonies (Paeonia hybrid, Zones 3–8) and fernleaf peony (Paeonia tenuifolia, Zones 3–8) are short-lived but dramatic.

    close up of Solomon's seal foliageTo me the “almost hand-painted” look of this Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegata’, Zones 3–8) is perfect for a Japanese garden.

    close up of birch tree and shade plants that grow under itThe white birch tree (Betula sp., Zones 2–7) that I planted as a seedling near the pagoda is increasing the shade for the hostas, ferns, and Solomon’s seal and decreasing watering needs for all the pots.

    close up of hostas and other green foliage plantsThis photo perfectly displays the look that I am trying to achieve here. Foliage is almost entirely wrapping the abandoned chicken coop, with the 4-inch bamboo rail on the boardwalk completing the Japanese look. Unfortunately, a Japanese maple (Acer palmatum, Zones 5–9) to really top it off is not possible in (barely Zone 3) Oxdrift, Ontario.

    view of Japanese garden from other end with various ornamental grassesThe back exit area has an underground pond liner making a bog area, which the bridge crosses. The bog creates the perfect environment for the native cattails (Typha latifolia, Zones 3–10) on the left and the goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus, Zones 3–8) and variegated sweetflag (Acorus calamus ‘Variegatus’, Zones 3–10) on the right.

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • How to Save Pumpkin Seeds to Roast and Eat | Gardener’s Path

    How to Save Pumpkin Seeds to Roast and Eat | Gardener’s Path

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    There are two ways to approach saving seeds to eat from homegrown pumpkins.

    With the first, you focus on the seeds themselves, and do all you can to grow the Cucurbita pepo, C. moschata, or C. maxima.varieties that produce the best seed harvest for roasting.

    The other way is to consider them as a secondary benefit, collecting them for consumption only after you’ve carved the jack-o’-lanterns, made the pies, or taken down the autumn display.

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    You know what? Either way, you’ll be growing your own food and enjoying a fall favorite. And either approach delivers the nutritional benefits of this superfood, including fiber and healthy fats.

    And hey, no matter which goal you’re pursuing, the best timing and the scooping and drying methods are the same. That’s the process I’ll share coming up.

    Here’s what we’ll cover:

    Best Pumpkin Varieties for Seeds to Eat

    I’m not going to pull any punches here. If you want to focus on growing your own pumpkin seeds for snacks, and to add to baked goods and float on autumnal soups, the best by far are the hull-less varieties, often called pepitas or “naked” seed pumpkins.

    These are C. pepo cultivars, just like many jack-o’-lantern and pie varieties, but the seeds within the fruits don’t have an exterior coat. That’s right, they come out bright green with nothing more than very thin, papery skins.

    This type is often known as Styrian or oilseed. A couple of cultivars you might like to grow include ‘Lady Godiva’ and ‘Williams Naked Seeded.’

    The snacks you buy from the grocery are usually of the hull-less variety.

    If you’ve decided to grow one of these types for your next harvest, I can recommend ‘Pepitas’ from experience. It’s a hybrid vining type that grows a couple feet tall and then spreads 10 to 13 feet.

    It has the dual appeal of attractive medium-size fruits for decorations, and seeds that don’t need to be hulled before roasting.

    Each plant produces six to eight fruits that weigh nine to 12 pounds. The pumpkins are an appealing orange streaked with green. This variety requires 100 to 105 days to mature.

    A close up square image of 'Pepitas' hybrid pumpkins freshly harvested set on a concrete surface.

    ‘Pepitas’

    ‘Pepitas’ are available from Burpee.

    I will also recommend the types that contain seeds with hulls, which you can roast hull and all, and then shell or not as you please.

    They’re also tasty and nutritious, but they’re a lot more labor intensive if you’re aiming to eat the nutty centers without the coats.

    When you’re primarily using the fruit for recipes, carving, or as part of a fall display, any variety is fine. Unlike those you save for planting next year, you can hull and roast seeds from hybrid pumpkins, no problem.

    In fact, you can even roast those from an acorn, ‘Hubbard,’ or other winter squash if you prefer. They’re a tasty little extra!

    But if the seeds are your prime focus and you’re not planning to grow a naked seed cultivar, do opt for a field pumpkin, or one that’s been bred as a jack-o’-lantern pumpkin.

    A close up horizontal image of pumpkin pepitas and flesh scooped out and set on a gray surface.

    They’ll have thinner shells, which makes prying out those tasty morsels way easier.

    You’d think I might recommend the extra-big varieties, like ‘Dill’s Atlantic.’

    I would certainly advise you to cook each and every one if you do grow one of these 200-pound-plus behemoths, but I wouldn’t grow a biggie just for the sake of gleaning a lot of seeds.

    For one thing, a single vine can take up 50 square feet of growing space, and it might only produce one big pumpkin.

    Also, those giants are tough to move, and you have to practically dive inside to remove the pulp.

    I prefer to grow the more manageable-sized varieties with thin rinds for a sizable harvest.

    ‘White Queen,’ for example, fits the bill, producing fruits seven to 10 inches in diameter on 10-foot vines, and maturing in 90 to 120 days.

    A close up square image of a 'White Queen' pumpkin isolated on a black background. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.

    ‘White Queen’

    ‘White Queen’ is available from True Leaf Market in packets and bulk.

    Pick a Pumpkin With the Most Seeds

    You can also maximize the number of seeds you collect by choosing fruits carefully.

    First, make sure that it’s ripe when you harvest, and then wait about three weeks before scooping the seeds from inside. The seeds keep maturing after the fruit is ready for harvest.

    You can find lots of tips for ripeness and harvesting in our guide.

    If you find your pumpkin at a market and it’s the customary color for that variety, it’s probably ready. For homegrown varieties, you’ll have inside knowledge of the timeline.

    A close up horizontal image of two hands using a metal spoon to scoop out the flesh from an orange pumpkins.

    And this is one of those times when you can wait for your convenience, up to a point.

    The seeds will still be fresh and a good size for a few weeks after that 20-day waiting period, so you can cull them when you’re ready to cook the flesh or carve your jack-o’-lantern.

    But don’t let the pumpkins get overly ripe. Once they’re a couple months old, you run the danger of finding that the seeds inside have started to germinate.

    You’ll also be able to get more from the fruits that are biggest among the variety you’re growing. If you’re not planning to process your whole crop, start with one of those.

    If the fruits are so big they’re cracking, note that they’re overly mature, and you may find sprouts or mildew inside the cavity.

    Remove and Process the Seeds for Eating

    For this step, you’ll need a sharp knife. And please, be careful!

    If you’re planning to roast the flesh, go ahead and hack the whole fruit into pieces, and then cut or spoon the pulp away from the flesh.

    A close up horizontal image of pumpkins sliced and whole set on a wooden surface.

    Those saving seeds as they carve a jack-o’-lantern can just scoop them out of the cavity with the pulp.

    However you obtain the mass of pulp, place it into a colander and run cool water over the top while you rub the seeds out of the pulp with your hands.

    A close up horizontal image of two hands using a spoon to scoop the flesh out of a small pumpkin.

    Then let them dry completely on a baking sheet, towel, or a piece of newspaper or parchment.

    Once they’re dry to the touch, which may take a couple of days, pick out any remnants of dried pulp and dispose of it.

    At this point, you can eat those collected from “naked” varieties raw, either as a fresh snack or as a crunchy, green salad topping.

    Raw pepitas aren’t as crisp or sweet as the toasted ones, though.

    You can technically also eat the fresh seeds that have hulls, but they have a thin flavor and are fibrous to a fault.

    It’s okay to sample one or two or let your kids do so, but that’s more of a novelty, not something you’ll want to serve as a snack for family or guests.

    The toasted version, though, is delicious as a snack and makes a prime Halloween party appetizer, especially if you spice it with a free hand.

    I also like to take the roasted ones on road trips, as something nutritious yet salty to chew over the long hours.

    To learn the basics of roasting your haul, check out this recipe from our sister site, Foodal, for Homemade Toasted and Seasoned Pumpkin Seeds.

    A close up horizontal image of roasted spicy pumpkin seeds on parchment paper.

    I also encourage you to take an extra step to assure the fibrous hulls get extra crispy. First, air dry them on a clean kitchen towel or paper towels as usual.

    Then let them dry further on a baking pan in an oven preheated to 350°F. Spread them in a single layer.

    Five minutes of oven drying should be enough, and then you can proceed along with coating them in oil, and finish the rest of the recipe.

    To roast pepitas, toss each cup of kernels with a teaspoon of olive oil, spread them in a baking pan, and bake in a 325°F oven for about 15 minutes.

    Since they’re “naked,” pepitas don’t need that extra drying time to assure crispy hulls either.

    Watch them carefully as they cook, since the oily portion is exposed directly to the heat, which makes them more likely to burn if the temperature is too high or they’re in the oven too long.

    Using a spatula, toss the warm pepitas with a teaspoon or so of your favorite seasoning mix, and a half teaspoon of salt, right in the pan you used to bake.

    Allow them to cool before serving or storing in an airtight container for up to a week.

    To be honest, I can’t imagine a household where this savory snack would not be eaten in a matter of hours, but maybe you have that kind of restraint!

    Perfect for Peter, Peter Pumpkin-Seed-Eater

    Even if they’re skeptical of nutritious foods, this collecting and roasting project might win kids over. After all, it involves lots of messy gloop, and the fruit associated with fall festivals and Halloween.

    Why not give it a go the next time you need a fun kid-adult project?

    A close up horizontal image of two small pumpkins cut in half set on a marble surface with seeds scattered around.

    And if you’re already familiar with collecting and feasting on C. pepo or C. maxima seeds, fellow readers would appreciate your tips or questions. Add either to the comments section below.

    Also, if this coverage put you in the mood for more info on planting and eating these fall favorites, check out these pumpkin guides next:

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    Rose Kennedy

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  • Burned Out? How to Prevent and Treat Leaf Scorch in Your Plants

    Burned Out? How to Prevent and Treat Leaf Scorch in Your Plants

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    Leaf scorch is a condition that is typically caused by unfavorable environmental conditions.

    This type of leaf scorch is not contagious, and no chemical or other product will effectively treat the condition. In fact, simple leaf scorch may be caused by excessive amounts of chemical fertilizer. 

    Leaf ScorchPin

    Other causes include too little water, too much sun, harsh winds, etc., which all have the effect of drying leaves. 

    Typically, leaf scorch appears as dry spots or burns along the margins of leaves. These damaged leaves may fall from the affected plant, shrub, or tree. 

    In this article, we discuss and describe leaf scorch and provide sound advice on establishing good management practices to prevent it. Read on to learn more.

    MU Extension Integrated Pest Management: Leaf Scorch

    Leaf Scorch Is Naturally Present In The Heat Of The Summer

    The hot summer sun naturally dries out vegetation, so you are very likely to see leaf scorch on all sorts of plants, grasses, shrubs, and trees during the hottest days of summer. 

    No matter what sort of foliage a plant has, leaves or needles, this condition is referred to as a “leaf” scorch, and it is caused by the plant’s inability to access the water it needs to survive in hot, harsh weather. 

    Leaf scorch will initially manifest as dry, brown leaf margins. If intervention (in the form of shade and water) is not provided, the leaf tissue between the veins may also dry out and turn brown. Eventually, entire leaves will dry and fall. 

    Leaf scorch can happen to any plant, but it is very likely to occur in trees (e.g., Aspens) with large, thin leaves that dry out easily. 

    In very severe circumstances, trees that have needles (e.g., evergreens) may also develop leaf scorch. When this happens, the tips of the needles turn pink and light tan. Without intervention, the needles will become completely brown and will fall. 

    This phenomenon is known as Kladoptosis (aka Cladoptosis), and it can affect the leaves and twigs of plants, shrubs, and trees subjected to stress. 

    During drought or other stressful conditions, the plant is stimulated to produce ethylene gas which causes a layer of separation at the base of the plant’s leaves and sometimes twigs. 

    Plants do this as a defense mechanism that allows them to shed tissue that is not entirely necessary to preserve the plants’ roots so that the plant can grow again when conditions improve. 

    During Kladoptosis, the plants’ leaves may turn yellow and fall like autumn. This is very common among Willow trees, Cottonwoods and Aspens. 

    Why Do Leaf Edges Brown First?

    Plants take up water through fine feeder roots. The water is then transported through the plant’s vascular system to the plant’s leaves, needles, or other foliage. 

    The water rises through the plants’ veins and supplies the tissue nearest to the plant’s central stem or trunk first. 

    The edges of leaves and the tips of needles are furthest away from the central stem or trunk, so they may get left out without insufficient water. Hence, scorched leaf tips and margins can initially identify leaf scorch. 

    Is Leaf Scorch Always Caused By Lack Of Water?

    Sometimes, there may be plenty of water present, but a plant that cannot make good use of that water may suffer from leaf scorch. 

    For example, leaf scorch may result if the plants’ root system is not adequate to meet the plant’s needs. 

    There are several reasons why this might happen, such as: 

    • A plant or tree growing in an area that is hemmed in by pavement may not be able to develop a healthy root system. 
    • A plant or tree growing in an area subject to heavy tilling or other disturbances may experience root damage or loss that leaves the root system weakened and inadequate. 
    • Damage to the plant’s roots caused by incorrect planting depth or girdling will cause leaf scorch and drop.
    • Chemicals (e.g., soil sterilant or road salt) applied in the plant or tree’s vicinity may cause root damage or loss. 
    • Excessive amounts of fertilizer may cause chemical damage (burns) to the plants’ root system. 
    • Using fertilizer spikes that deliver a lot of salty fertilizer chemicals to a small area may cause leaf scorch on one part of the plant or tree. 
    • Damage to the plant’s limbs and stems may simply prevent water from being transported to parts of the plant or tree. 
    • Dry weather during the plants’ dormant period may result in leaf scorch during growth. 
    • Overwatering for an extended period can also cause leaf scorch because waterlogged plants and trees may not be able to grow fresh, new roots that can absorb water. Root scorch may occur when root growth and development are thwarted by soggy soil. This is especially true if the plant has been deprived of water during its dormant time. 

    Excessive Heat Causes Leaf Scorch And Stress

    Heat-related leaf scorch is often accompanied by heat stress. Other signs and symptoms to watch for in plants and trees in very hot environments and/or during drought include discolored leaves, drying out, and damage to the soil line.

    It’s important to note that these heat-related symptoms are not always caused by heat-related to the weather. 

    You may have perfectly lovely weather yet still see these symptoms in plants subjected to less-than-ideal conditions and treatment. For example: 

    • A plant, shrub, or tree planted close to the west or south side of a fence or building may receive a great deal of reflected heat which will cause leaf scorch and heat stress symptoms even if its care is otherwise excellent. 
    • Plants, shrubs, and trees that are surrounded by rock mulch may be exposed to a great deal of absorbed heat at the root level, as well as reflected heat, especially if the rock is dark in color. 
    • Black plastic mulch also absorbs and reflects a vast amount of heat that may kill the plants intended to protect. 
    • Black plastic containers absorb and hold a great deal of heat. This may cause damage or death to roots and result in leaf scorch.

    Bacterial Leaf Scorch – Garden Notes

    Bacterial Infection Can Cause Leaf Scorch

    Although, more often than not, leaf scorch is caused by inhospitable environmental conditions or improper care, it is also possible for this condition to be caused by the bacteria, Xylella fastidiosa (Zy-lel-uh fas-tid-ee-OH-suh). 

    This infection is very common among shade trees with large, thin, permeable leaves. 

    Examples include: 

    • Sweet Gum
    • Hackberry
    • Sycamore
    • Mulberry
    • Catalpa
    • Ginkgo
    • Maple
    • Elm
    • Oak

    It is possible for trees affected by this pathogen to die of the infection. The bacterium causes leaf scorch by inhabiting the plant’s vascular system and blocking water movement from the plant’s roots. Watch for these signs of (BLS):

    Signs Of Bacterial Leaf Scorch

    • Watch for the presence of plant hoppers (e.g., spittlebugs, treehoppers, sharpshooters) that feed on infected plants and then carry the bacterium to healthy plants. 
    • In some types of trees, the brown scorched areas may be surrounded by a yellow border. 
    • Signs of leaf discoloration and scorch start at the crown (top) of the tree. 
    • Affected plants’ growth is stunted, and affected areas die back. 
    • Symptoms return every year and spread progressively. 

    It can be hard to pinpoint Bacterial Leaf Scorch (BLS), even in trees that display these symptoms, because these can also be symptoms of environmental stress, root disease, and drought. 

    Difference Between BLS and Drought Stress

    Look for these telltale signs of drought stress to tell the difference: 

    • If the scorching is caused by drought, the symptoms will be uniform throughout the plant, shrub, or tree. They will not begin at the crown or on new, young growth. 
    • With drought scorching, you’ll notice dry leaf tips and then margins starting on interior leaves and then spreading throughout the foliage. 
    • Drought scorching usually starts in mid-to-late summer. 

    Sadly, there is no treatment for BLS, but some trees can be kept alive and doing fairly well with attentive pruning to promptly remove any affected branches. 

    Hiring a licensed arborist to provide antibiotic trunk injections to very valuable trees is also possible. This will help keep symptoms under control, but it is not a cure. 

    Bacterial Leaf Scorch

    Prevention Is The Best Medicine For Leaf Scorch

    No matter the cause of your leaf scorch problem, once it has occurred, you will not be able to undo it quickly. 

    Plants, shrubs, and trees suffering from leaf scorch will need good pruning and correction of the stressors that caused the condition. 

    Familiarize yourself with the needs of your plants and take steps to provide the right amount of water, light, and nourishment. Pay close attention to soil conditions. 

    For the most part, light, airy, well-draining soil that can retain just the right amount of moisture and provide good air circulation to the roots is always a good foundation for healthy plants. 

    Adjust your watering habits so your plants do not dry out entirely during the winter. Outdoor plants and large, mature trees in areas that do not have snow cover will benefit from a deep monthly soaking. 

    For winter watering, choose a day above freezing temperature in the morning. You should water in the morning so that the water can soak in before temperatures drop overnight. 

    If a sheet of ice freezes on the surface of the soil, plant roots will suffocate, and that will cause leaf scorch when spring comes. 

    Practice soak-and-dry watering with garden plants, shrubs, and trees throughout the growing season. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry before providing a deep watering. This will ensure that the plants’ roots can breathe. 

    Even if your plants experience some leaf scorch during very hot, dry weather, don’t overwater. Keep up a consistent schedule of deep, infrequent watering. 

    Remember that your lawn may need more water than is healthy for your flowerbeds, veggie garden, and landscaping. Tailor your watering habits to suit the targeted plants. 

    Best Garden Practices Help Prevent Leaf Scorch

    Leaf scorch is a common condition caused by various factors, including unfavorable environmental conditions, improper care, and sometimes bacterial infection. 

    Although it cannot be treated with chemicals or products, prevention is key to managing leaf scorch effectively. 

    Proper watering practices, including deep soak-and-dry watering, can help maintain healthy root systems and prevent leaf scorch.

    Additionally, avoiding heat stress caused by reflected or absorbed heat is essential in maintaining the well-being of plants, shrubs, and trees. 

    For trees afflicted with BLS, attentive pruning and, in some cases, antibiotic trunk injections by a licensed arborist can help manage symptoms. 

    In the final analysis, understanding and meeting the specific needs of plants and maintaining proper soil conditions are vital for preventing and treating leaf scorch effectively.

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    Gary Antosh

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  • 11 of the Best Fall Annuals to Plant in the South | Gardener’s Path

    11 of the Best Fall Annuals to Plant in the South | Gardener’s Path

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    1. China Aster

    The rare annual aster, Callistephus chinensis, blooms in beautiful jewel tones from spring all the way up to the first frost.

    Use it in containers, along walkways, or in garden beds. The colors are a treat, ranging from purples and pinks to white and yellow.

    Giants of California is a hybrid series, featuring large, four- to five-inch double blooms in pink, purple, and white.

    Giants of California China Aster

    Find Giants of California mixed China aster seeds in packets or bulk at Eden Brothers.

    Learn more about how to grow China asters in our guide.

    2. Calendula

    Low maintenance, with two- to three-inch, daisy-shaped flowers, calendula (Calendula spp.) can be grown as tender perennials in Zones 9 to 11, but these plants are annuals in Zones 7 to 8.

    Calendula, also known as pot marigold, often self-seeds as well, returning the following year on its own.

    The plants reach about 10 inches tall and spread a foot or more.

    The ‘Pink Surprise’ cultivar complements the orange and russet tones so often found in autumnal floral arrangements.

    A close up square image of a single 'Pink Surprise' calendula flower pictured on a soft focus background.

    ‘Pink Surprise’ Calendula

    The bushy plant will also attract beneficial insects when grown as a companion in the fall vegetable garden.

    ‘Pink Surprise’ calendula seeds are available in packets and bulk from Eden Brothers.

    You can plant calendula in the spring in full sun and well-draining soil and expect it to bloom up until the first frost, particularly if you keep up with deadheading the flowers.

    Note that it may languish in the summer heat, but will usually rebound to provide late summer and early autumn color.

    It’s also possible to plant calendula in summer if you aren’t growing it already, but be sure to start seedlings indoors.

    For more tips on growing calendula, see our guide.

    3. Flowering Kale

    Technically a biennial that takes two years to complete its life cycle and form seeds, flowering kale (Brassica oleracea), is usually grown as an annual.

    Even though its roots could potentially survive a southern winter, the kale that emerges in the spring would be gangly, producing stalks of yellow flowers rather than the pink centers and round leaves of the first-year plants.

    Flowering kale has become a favorite in fall flower arrangements, with sturdy stems that can last for a long time in a vase. The ornamental plants are also candidates for garden borders or window boxes, and may grow well into the winter.

    A close up of ornamental flowering kale 'Crane Pink' growing in the fall garden.

    ‘Crane Pink’ Flowering Kale

    ‘Crane Pink’ looks like a round-leaf open cabbage with deep pink center leaves, and red and green veins on the exterior foliage.

    Find ‘Crane Pink’ flowering kale available at Burpee. Choose from packets of 50 seeds or sets of 12 nursery starts.

    This annual grows to 25 inches tall and requires full sun. Read more about growing ornamental kale here.

    4. Fountain Grass

    Ornamental grass is beautiful any time of year, but purple fountain grass, Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubum,’ is particularly appealing, waving majestically in an autumn landscape or container.

    In Zones 9 to 11, fountain grass grows as a perennial, but we southern gardeners in Zones 7 and 8 bid adieu to its deep purple leaves and flower spikes once temperatures plummet below 20°F.

    A square image of purple fountain grass growing in a garden border.

    Purple Fountain Grass

    Find purple fountain grass plants available in one-quart containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

    You can grow purple fountain grass from divisions or purchased starts, but its seeds are sterile.

    Transplant any time during the season and make sure to keep the young plants watered well for the first few months. Once they’re established, they’re drought tolerant.

    In Zones 7 and 8, you’ll want to enjoy this annual before the first hard freeze destroys it, so consider transplanting as early in the spring as possible.

    Learn more about growing purple fountain grass in our guide.

    5. Marigold

    Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds while brightening a border or container with their bright blooms.

    They are hardy enough to withstand heat, poor soil, and drought to bloom for months, starting in midsummer.

    For fall color, make sure to regularly deadhead spent flowers throughout the season.

    You can also grow new marigolds for autumn transplant by sowing the seeds indoors in July to plant out four to six weeks later.

    ‘Bolero’ is a French variety that grows 12 inches tall, and its orange and brick red bicolored double blooms scream out “fall is here!”

    A square image of 'Bolero' French marigolds growing in a stone pot.

    ‘Bolero’ French Marigolds

    The petals of these flowers are edible when grown without pesticides, and the blooms also make a bright addition to autumn-themed cut flower arrangements.

    Find packets and bulk quantities of ‘Bolero’ seed at Eden Brothers.

    Learn more about how to grow marigolds in our guide.

    6. Nasturtium

    Nasturtium (Nasturtium spp.) is the quintessential annual for southern gardeners. You can sow the seeds in spring and enjoy the bright blooms throughout the summer.

    The compact varieties are a delight in planters and borders, while the vining types can cascade over cottage garden walls or drape from hanging baskets.

    When autumn rolls around, you may still be enjoying the edible flowers of nasturtiums sown in June. But you may also want to plant a new variety or two for fall containers or to cover bare spots left by fading summer annuals.

    Be sure to plant in soil that drains well and ensure a full-sun location. Nasturtiums start blooming four to six weeks after sowing.

    If you’re gardening in Zone 10 and above, you can sow the seeds in August or even September and enjoy the blooms into November or December. Those in Zones 7 to 9 should plan to start nasturtium seed by July at the latest.

    A square image of Whirlybird mixed nasturtiums in yellow and red. To the bottom right of the frame is a black circular logo with text.

    Whirlybird Mix

    Whirlybird Mix will make your heart sing with the semi-double blooms in a mix of autumn hues including maroon, yellow, cream, orange, peach, apricot, salmon, and scarlet.

    Plants in this mix have a mounding habit and grow about 10 inches tall.

    Find packets or bulk quantities of Whirlybird Mix available at True Leaf Market.

    Read more about growing nasturtium flowers here.

    7. Partridge Pea

    Classified as legumes, partridge peas (Chamaecrista fasciculata) are wildflowers that grow about three feet tall and bear attractive yellow flowers with reddish-purple spots on their bases.

    Also known as sensitive plant, the partridge pea’s leaves are comprised of narrow leaflets that close up if touched. The plant also exhibits nyctinasty, where the leaves close up at nightfall and reopen in the morning.

    A close up horizontal image of the tiny yellow flowers of partridge pea pictured on a soft focus background.

    This annual is a host plant for several species of butterflies. It bears pea pods after the spent blooms fall, and the seeds contained in the pods attract birds. The pods are not edible.

    Along with the colorful blooms that appeal to pollinators, partridge pea is one of the easiest fall-blooming annuals to grow and care for. It will thrive in average, sandy, or clay soil as long as it’s well-draining.

    It needs moderate amounts of water, and can be planted in part shade though it prefers full sun.

    Plant this pretty native in borders, along walkways, on inaccessible slopes, and in pollinator and meadow-type gardens.

    Collect seeds from existing plants in late summer or fall. Seeds may be sown in fall, or frozen through the winter to sow in spring.

    Partridge Pea

    Find 200-seed packets of partridge peas available from David’s Garden via Amazon.

    8. Petunia

    Petunias (Petunia spp.) are so pretty. While some might associate them with Mother’s Day, they can also pep up early autumn window boxes, hanging baskets, beds, and borders, or you might like to plant them for blooming ground cover.

    Southern gardeners in Zones 9 and above can treat petunias as tender perennials, but those of us in Zones 7 or 8 should grow these plants as annuals.

    If you carefully tend petunias planted in spring, you can expect them to still bloom through the early weeks of autumn.

    When you start growing petunias in summer expressly for fall color, note they’ll need 10 to 12 weeks after sowing to begin flowering.

    Sow seeds indoors in late June. They take about a week to germinate and another four or five weeks to grow large enough to harden off and transplant into the garden.

    Petunias won’t germinate at temperatures higher than 80°F, so there’s no point sowing them outdoors in a southern summer!

    When you’re lucky enough to find starts or even full-grown plants at your local nursery in late summer, snap them up!

    A square image of potted Supercascade petunias in a variety of colors. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.

    Supercascade Mixed Colors

    If you plant them in a full sun location with fertile, well-draining soil and keep them watered and deadheaded, they should keep blooming through early autumn and maybe up until the first frost.

    Supercascade is a series of grandiflora petunias, with large flowers in vibrant colors and an upright, mounded growth habit.

    Find seeds for Supercascade petunias available at True Leaf Market in blue, burgundy, pink, red, rose, white, and as a mix.

    Read more about growing petunias here.

    9. Snow Pea

    Maybe not the first fall annual to come to mind for southern growers, especially with “snow” as part of their name, snow peas (Pisum sativum) are nonetheless a fine selection to plant in late summer for pretty, pink and purple, edible blooms on three-foot plants.

    The clover-shaped, green foliage is also attractive, and the plants complement other fall annuals like jewel-tone China asters in hanging baskets, raised beds, or autumn-themed window boxes.

    These legumes are not one of the autumn-blooming annuals you can sow or transplant in the midsummer heat. Once they’ve germinated, they only grow, flower, and perhaps produce pods when the temperature stays below 85°F, and they do best in the 55 to 65°F range.

    ‘Dwarf Grey’ is a compact variety that tops out at about three feet tall, and in addition to the attractive flowers, you’ll have a harvest of edible pea pods to look forward to!

    A square image of 'Dwarf Grey' snow peas freshly harvested and set in a bowl.

    ‘Dwarf Grey’ Snow Peas

    ‘Dwarf Grey’ seeds in 100, 400, and 1,600-count packages are available from Eden Brothers.

    Most commonly grown as a food crop, fall-planted ‘Dwarf Grey’ can do triple duty as an ornamental, a source of edible blooms and pods, and an attractive cover crop for a spring vegetable garden.

    Learn more in our guide to growing snow peas.

    10. Sunflower

    Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) herald summer, but certain varieties can also brighten the early days of autumn.

    ‘Autumn Beauty’ is a colorful variety, living up to its name as a fall annual, producing a riot of copper, yellow, rust, and bicolor blooms on bushy plants that reach four to eight feet tall.

    A square image of a gardener holding up a bunch of Autumn Beauty sunflowers.

    ‘Autumn Beauty’ Sunflowers

    Find ‘Autumn Beauty’ mix seeds in packets and bulk sizes at Eden Brothers.

    Pollinators will be drawn to the nectar-rich blooms and you can also save the seeds to plant next year.

    Sunflowers generally take 75 to 90 days from sowing to bloom, so be sure to sow the seeds with enough time to flower before the first killing frost in your area.

    In Zones 9 and above it’s possible to plant sunflowers any time of year.

    Learn more about how to grow sunflowers in our guide.

    11. Zinnia

    Zounds! All zinnias (Zinnia spp.) have a colorful appeal blooming in an autumn-theme planter or in a long-stemmed arrangement, but ‘Zowie Yellow Flame’ is particularly eye-catching.

    The flowers have large red central cones circled by several layers of magenta pink petals, with yellow tips that gradually change to a deep red.

    The blooms are as big as teacups – three to five inches across, With their sturdy, three-foot-tall stems and brilliant colors, they brighten beds and borders and are also great as cut flowers.

    Starting seeds indoors to transplant out is recommended, particularly if you’re looking for fall blooms. This variety takes 75 to 85 days from sowing to bloom, so it needs that head start.

    A square image of 'Zowie Yellow Flame' zinnias growing in the fall garden. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.

    ‘Zowie Yellow Flame’ Zinnias

    Find 10- or 100-seed packets of ‘Zowie Yellow Flame’ available at True Leaf Market.

    This is one of the most reliable “cut and come again” annuals you can grow.

    Expect flowering 75 days after sowing seed. Pinching the first set of buds helps this majestic zinnia branch, and harvesting flowers for vases and deadheading spent blooms will encourage ongoing production.

    Like all zinnias, ‘Zowie Yellow Flame’ needs full sun, proper air circulation, and soil-surface watering to prevent its most common ailment, powdery mildew.

    Read more about growing zinnias here.

    Falling in Love with Autumn’s Annuals

    Any of these selections can quickly grow from seed – or nursery start – to provide a colorful show in your garden or a container this autumn.

    A close up horizontal image of orange calendula flowers growing in the fall garden.

    Speedy growth is part of the appeal of growing annuals. You plant, they grow, they’re lovely, then they’re done, and you start over again the next year or next season.

    Do you know any fall annual favorites that grow well in the south that we haven’t covered here? Be sure to share your experience and questions in the comments section below.

    And if this roundup struck your fancy, check out these guides for more flower gardening tips:

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    Rose Kennedy

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  • How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

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    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    The satisfaction you feel as you turn yard and kitchen waste into organic fertilizer that nourishes the soil, as well as your vegetables, plants, and flowers, is the reward for putting in the effort to learn how to compost. 

    However, the thought of learning how to compost can be intimidating. The first time I started composting, I was great at growing flies – but not compost. I did not know how to compost, and felt like composting wasn’t for me. It was too hard, too stinky, and there were too many bugs. Can you relate to any of those feelings? 

    Fast forward a couple of years. I decided to enroll in Master Gardener classes where two crucial things occurred:

    1. I learned the correct way to compost from a local composting expert.      
    2. Volunteering at the demonstration garden gave me hands-on experience learning how to compost.

    With this newfound knowledge and experience, I was ready to try again. I applied what I learned and put that knowledge to work, and guess what? I was successful and had fresh compost for my garden. Since that time, I’ve added hundreds of pounds of homemade fertilizer to my garden beds.  


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    There are as many methods of composting as there are gardeners, but this is the method that works for me using the type of compost bin offered through my city for $5 each. This method can also be adapted to other types of bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    1. Choose a location to compost

    Here are a few necessities for the location:

    • Plenty of room – the bins I use are 3 feet wide and 2 ½ feet tall. Plan on room for at least 2 bins. Ideally, there is 3 to 4 feet clearance in front of the bins.
    • Access to water – wetting down the compost with a hose helps speed up the process, especially in dry climates like the low desert of Arizona.
    • Shade – prevents compost from drying out as quickly and it’s easier for you to work in. 
    • Wheelbarrow access – room to maneuver in and out is helpful.

    2. Obtain compost bins

    The bins need to be around 3 feet wide and 2 to 3 feet deep (smaller bins won’t heat up as well), have lids, holes drilled in the sides for airflow, and bottomless. For the method I use, you need more than one bin. For smaller yards, 2 bins work fine. Larger yards could use 3, 4, or more bins.  

    Call your local city to see if they offer bins. This type of bin may also be found online on places like OfferUp and Craigslist. If you live in the City of Mesa (AZ), call 480-644-2221 to request a bin. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    3. Gather the correct tools for composting

    The right tools make composting much easier. I use the following tools: (click on the name to see the ones I use on Amazon).


    4. Learn what and what not to compost​

    Do Compost:  Don’t Compost: Compost with Care: 
    Leaves Meat / bones Bermuda grass clippings 
    Grass clippings Dairy Citrus peels (take a long time to break down)
    Coffee grounds Animal waste Ashes (adds alkalinity)
    Vegetable scraps Diseased plants  
    Egg shells Oil  
    Plant material Weeds with seeds    
    Fruit and peels    

    Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

    5. Understand the difference between green and brown materials

    What can I compost?
    What can I compost?
    Green Materials  Brown Materials 
    Nitrogen-rich, wet, colorful Carbon-rich, dry 
    Grass clippings Dry brown leaves
    Coffee and tea grounds Egg shells
    Green garden trimmings Hay and straw
    Fruit scraps, peels Shredded paper
    Vegetable scraps, peels Dryer lint

    How to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a Garden

    How to Become a
Self-Sufficient Gardener

    6. Fill the bins

    Place alternating layers of green and brown material. Aim for 3 parts brown material for every 1 part of green material. When using food waste, make sure it is buried under a layer of browns to avoid problems with flies. 

    Mist the layers with water as you add them to assure that the pile is adequately moist. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    7. Observe the compost​

    As decomposition starts, the pile begins to heat up. This is where the thermometer comes in handy. As long as your compost is nice and hot (110℉ – 160℉), you don’t need to do much. Once it cools (below 100℉), go to the next step. 

    See troubleshooting tips (below) if you aren’t sure what is happening inside the bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    8. Rotate the compost through your bins​

    Cooled-down compost that isn’t broken down completely needs to have air and water added back into it to heat it back up

    Use the pitchfork and shovel to move the green and brown materials from the cooled bin into an empty bin, re-moistening as you go. Break up any clumps of grass or leaves. No empty bin? Use the pitchfork to turn the material inside the bin, wetting it as you work. 

    Once all material is rotated through, watch the pile – it should begin to heat back up (110℉ – 160℉) within a day or so. When the temperatures drop back down again (below 100℉), repeat this step. Once the compost has an earthy odor and is dark brown and crumbly, the process is complete. 

    This step is why having more than one bin is so important. Ideally, the compost rotates through the bins and then is complete. After moving the material out of a bin, refill it with new green and brown materials to begin the process again. Keep moving the materials through the bins, leaving one bin open to rotate the compost into


    9. Use the compost​

    Spring Gardening in Arizona

    Success! A full bin of completed compost is gold for your garden. Use the shovel, pails, and wheelbarrow to scoop the completed compost and add it to your garden beds.

    If desired, use a soil sifter like this one from Amazon to remove any large pieces from your completed compost. Toss the large pieces back into the compost pile to finish breaking down.


    10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost​

    The tricky part of learning how to compost is that at any given time, you will be doing several of these steps with different bins.

    Be patient with yourself and pay attention to what is going on in each bin. Learn from your mistakes and build on your successes. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Troubleshooting Tips

    Symptom  Problem Solution
    Many flies  Green items or food exposed to air  Cover pile with brown materials.
    Wet compost – not heating up Add more brown material  Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials. Do not wet down between layers. 
    Dry compost – not heating up Materials may be too large, needs more green Transfer to a new bin and layer in more green materials. Wet down between layers. Cut down larger items if necessary.
    Bad odor like rotten eggs Materials too wet, not enough oxygen, or too compacted Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Bad odor like ammonia Not enough brown materials Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Compost heats up and then cools down Compost needs turned Transfer to a new bin, moistening layers as you go. 
    Warm only in the middle Compost pile too small Aim for the compost pile to be 3 feet wide and 2 ½ to 3 feet deep.
    Matted layers of leaves or grass Material won’t break down, will become slimy Avoid thick layers – break up layers with pitchfork and remix the pile adding in brown materials.
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success


    If you enjoyed this post about how to compost, please share it:



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    Angela Judd

    Source link

  • How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    [ad_1]

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    The satisfaction you feel as you turn yard and kitchen waste into organic fertilizer that nourishes the soil, as well as your vegetables, plants, and flowers, is the reward for putting in the effort to learn how to compost. 

    However, the thought of learning how to compost can be intimidating. The first time I started composting, I was great at growing flies – but not compost. I did not know how to compost, and felt like composting wasn’t for me. It was too hard, too stinky, and there were too many bugs. Can you relate to any of those feelings? 

    Fast forward a couple of years. I decided to enroll in Master Gardener classes where two crucial things occurred:

    1. I learned the correct way to compost from a local composting expert.      
    2. Volunteering at the demonstration garden gave me hands-on experience learning how to compost.

    With this newfound knowledge and experience, I was ready to try again. I applied what I learned and put that knowledge to work, and guess what? I was successful and had fresh compost for my garden. Since that time, I’ve added hundreds of pounds of homemade fertilizer to my garden beds.  


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    There are as many methods of composting as there are gardeners, but this is the method that works for me using the type of compost bin offered through my city for $5 each. This method can also be adapted to other types of bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    1. Choose a location to compost

    Here are a few necessities for the location:

    • Plenty of room – the bins I use are 3 feet wide and 2 ½ feet tall. Plan on room for at least 2 bins. Ideally, there is 3 to 4 feet clearance in front of the bins.
    • Access to water – wetting down the compost with a hose helps speed up the process, especially in dry climates like the low desert of Arizona.
    • Shade – prevents compost from drying out as quickly and it’s easier for you to work in. 
    • Wheelbarrow access – room to maneuver in and out is helpful.

    2. Obtain compost bins

    The bins need to be around 3 feet wide and 2 to 3 feet deep (smaller bins won’t heat up as well), have lids, holes drilled in the sides for airflow, and bottomless. For the method I use, you need more than one bin. For smaller yards, 2 bins work fine. Larger yards could use 3, 4, or more bins.  

    Call your local city to see if they offer bins. This type of bin may also be found online on places like OfferUp and Craigslist. If you live in the City of Mesa (AZ), call 480-644-2221 to request a bin. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    3. Gather the correct tools for composting

    The right tools make composting much easier. I use the following tools: (click on the name to see the ones I use on Amazon).


    4. Learn what and what not to compost​

    Do Compost:  Don’t Compost: Compost with Care: 
    Leaves Meat / bones Bermuda grass clippings 
    Grass clippings Dairy Citrus peels (take a long time to break down)
    Coffee grounds Animal waste Ashes (adds alkalinity)
    Vegetable scraps Diseased plants  
    Egg shells Oil  
    Plant material Weeds with seeds    
    Fruit and peels    

    Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

    5. Understand the difference between green and brown materials

    What can I compost?
    What can I compost?
    Green Materials  Brown Materials 
    Nitrogen-rich, wet, colorful Carbon-rich, dry 
    Grass clippings Dry brown leaves
    Coffee and tea grounds Egg shells
    Green garden trimmings Hay and straw
    Fruit scraps, peels Shredded paper
    Vegetable scraps, peels Dryer lint

    How to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a Garden

    How to Become a
Self-Sufficient Gardener

    6. Fill the bins

    Place alternating layers of green and brown material. Aim for 3 parts brown material for every 1 part of green material. When using food waste, make sure it is buried under a layer of browns to avoid problems with flies. 

    Mist the layers with water as you add them to assure that the pile is adequately moist. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    7. Observe the compost​

    As decomposition starts, the pile begins to heat up. This is where the thermometer comes in handy. As long as your compost is nice and hot (110℉ – 160℉), you don’t need to do much. Once it cools (below 100℉), go to the next step. 

    See troubleshooting tips (below) if you aren’t sure what is happening inside the bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    8. Rotate the compost through your bins​

    Cooled-down compost that isn’t broken down completely needs to have air and water added back into it to heat it back up

    Use the pitchfork and shovel to move the green and brown materials from the cooled bin into an empty bin, re-moistening as you go. Break up any clumps of grass or leaves. No empty bin? Use the pitchfork to turn the material inside the bin, wetting it as you work. 

    Once all material is rotated through, watch the pile – it should begin to heat back up (110℉ – 160℉) within a day or so. When the temperatures drop back down again (below 100℉), repeat this step. Once the compost has an earthy odor and is dark brown and crumbly, the process is complete. 

    This step is why having more than one bin is so important. Ideally, the compost rotates through the bins and then is complete. After moving the material out of a bin, refill it with new green and brown materials to begin the process again. Keep moving the materials through the bins, leaving one bin open to rotate the compost into


    9. Use the compost​

    Spring Gardening in Arizona

    Success! A full bin of completed compost is gold for your garden. Use the shovel, pails, and wheelbarrow to scoop the completed compost and add it to your garden beds.

    If desired, use a soil sifter like this one from Amazon to remove any large pieces from your completed compost. Toss the large pieces back into the compost pile to finish breaking down.


    10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost​

    The tricky part of learning how to compost is that at any given time, you will be doing several of these steps with different bins.

    Be patient with yourself and pay attention to what is going on in each bin. Learn from your mistakes and build on your successes. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Troubleshooting Tips

    Symptom  Problem Solution
    Many flies  Green items or food exposed to air  Cover pile with brown materials.
    Wet compost – not heating up Add more brown material  Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials. Do not wet down between layers. 
    Dry compost – not heating up Materials may be too large, needs more green Transfer to a new bin and layer in more green materials. Wet down between layers. Cut down larger items if necessary.
    Bad odor like rotten eggs Materials too wet, not enough oxygen, or too compacted Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Bad odor like ammonia Not enough brown materials Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Compost heats up and then cools down Compost needs turned Transfer to a new bin, moistening layers as you go. 
    Warm only in the middle Compost pile too small Aim for the compost pile to be 3 feet wide and 2 ½ to 3 feet deep.
    Matted layers of leaves or grass Material won’t break down, will become slimy Avoid thick layers – break up layers with pitchfork and remix the pile adding in brown materials.
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success


    If you enjoyed this post about how to compost, please share it:



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    Angela Judd

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  • Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

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    These are my favorite garden tools & supplies. If it’s listed here, it’s because I own it, use it, and love it. Dive into my personal list of favorite garden tools and supplies that I swear by.

    Stay one step ahead with this guide. Discover tools like Rachio Smart Controllers and Garden Watering Grids that are increasingly essential in modern gardening.


    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    My Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies


    Felco Pruning Shears

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    This is the one tool I always carry with me in the garden. It’s either in my hand or back pocket and perfect for pruning, harvesting, and just about everything else. 

    Buy Now

    Garden Watering Grids

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    These garden watering grids from Garden in Minutes water evenly AND divide my beds into squares for Square Foot Gardening. I’ve added them to all my raised beds. Use code ANGELA10 to save $10 off $100.

    Buy Now


    GITG Raised Bed Mix

    Gardener's Gift Guide: Garden Favorites​

    Based on Mel’s Mix from Square Foot Gardening, but adapted for Arizona gardening, I use the soil in all my beds and containers. It’s available at Arizona Worm Farm

    Buy Now

    Growoya Ollas

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    Ollas are my favorite way to water containers. I wouldn’t garden in containers here in the low desert during the summer without them. Use code GROWING to save.

    Buy Now


    Shade Cloth

    How to Create Shade in the Garden

    Once temperatures are consistently above 90°F, I add shade to the full-sun parts of my garden. I use this white 50% shade cloth. Learn more in this blog post

    Buy Now

    Seed Storage Boxes

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    I fill these photo storage boxes with different seeds and store them in a drawer in my hall closet with these labels. Learn more in this blog post

    Buy Now


    Bootstrap Farmer 1020 Trays

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    I’ve used these trays for several seasons, and they look as good as new.

    Buy Now

    Bootstrap Farmer 32-Cell Tray & Inserts

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    Built to last and just the right size with plenty of room for deep roots. 
    Buy Now


    Bootstrap Farmer Humidity Domes

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    Thick and well-made, these domes have lasted many seasons and are still going strong.

    Buy Now


    Wooden Dibber

    Gardener's Gift Guide: Garden Favorites​

    I’ve had the same one for over 10 years and use it when planting seeds. Easily one of my favorite garden tools.
    Buy Now


    Seedling Heat Mat

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    I’ve used these heating mats for years, and they work great. 

    Buy Now

    Power Strip with Timer

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    I plug in all the lights on the side with the timer and the fans on the other side of the timer. Love having the lights on a timer – it makes my job easier.  Buy Now


    Favorite Gardening Tools & Supplies


    Corona Transplanter

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    I’ve had this transplanter for years. It is sturdy, strong, and doesn’t rust. 

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    Corona Pruning Saw

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    This pruning saw comes in handy for removing larger branches and limbs from trees

    Buy Now


    Plant Labels

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    I love knowing what’s growing, and these markers last all season long. At the end of the season, I paint over them and reuse them year after year. 

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    Garden Labeling Pens

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    I use these Sharpie paint pens on my garden markers, which helps them last all season.

    Buy Now


    Rachio Smart Controllers

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    Turning on and off my watering system from my phone is a game changer. Love it! 

    Buy Now

    Freeze Dryer

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    Freeze drying has quickly become my favorite way to preserve garden harvests.

    Buy Now


    Soil Test Kit

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    It’s important to test your soil at the beginning of the season. These kits make it easy.

    Buy Now


    Fish Fertilizer

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    Stinky and thick – this stuff is the best. This concentrate lasts a long time. (5-1-1)

    Buy Now

    Worm Castings

    Topping of beds with compost

    Garden gold. The benefits of worm castings go way beyond fertilizer. They are a must-have for organic gardening.

    Buy Now


    Compost Thermometer

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    It’s important to know if your compost is heating or cooling. Using a thermometer helps you know what is happening in your compost pile. 

    Buy Now

    Galvanized Soil Scoop

    Favorite Garden Tools & Supplies

    I always use this scoop to spread soil, mulch, and compost. 

    Buy Now


    Cardboard Shredder

    shredder

    I shred my cardboard with this 24-sheet heavy-duty shredder. The worms love shredded cardboard as bedding. 

    Buy Now


    Favorite Gardening Tools & Supplies


    Gorilla Cart

    Garden Cart / Gorilla Cart

    I’ve had mine since 2016. I added no flat tires and use this cart for all sorts of garden jobs.  

    Buy Now

    Herb Scissors

    Herb Scissors

    These scissors make using fresh herbs so simple. The five blades slice the herbs easily and quickly. They are also easy to clean. 

    Buy Now


    Chicken Feeder

    Chicken Feeder

    My favorite part about this feeder? No waste! The birds can’t get the food dirty, and it doesn’t get wet. My feed costs went down when I began using this feeder.

    Buy Now

    Chicken Waterer

    Chicken Waterer

    It took several tries to find the best waterer. The search is over. My chickens and I both love this one.

    Buy Now


    Galvanized Steel Bucket

    Galvanized Steel Bucket

    I use these buckets all the time for different tasks in the garden. They are used often and most definitely one of my favorite garden tools and supplies.

    Buy Now

    Garden Clips

    Garden Clips

    These are my favorite clips for attaching plants to trellises. They are easy to use and reusable. I use them throughout the garden. 

    Buy Now


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  • Okra Water: Health Benefits and How to Make It

    Okra Water: Health Benefits and How to Make It

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    If you’re a gardener in a hot climate (like me), you may have grown okra and wondered what to do with the excess harvest. How about using the abundance to make okra water? In this blog post, I’ll share the health benefits of okra water and show you how to make and use it.

    Okra Water: Health Benefits and How to Make ItOkra Water: Health Benefits and How to Make It

    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    How to make okra water

    Okra Water: Health Benefits and How to Make It

    To make okra water, all you need is fresh okra and water. 

    1. Start by washing the okra pods and cutting off the stems.
    2. Then, slice the okra pods in half or coarsely chop them.
    3. Place the okra in a jar or a large bowl and cover it with water.
    4. Refrigerate and let it sit overnight or for at least 8 hours.
    5. The water will turn slimy, slightly thick, and have a neutral or somewhat earthy taste.
    6. Once the water has infused with okra and turned into a gel-like substance, strain the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth.
    7. Add lemon juice or honey to the water to add flavor.
    8. Store the okra water in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

    Health benefits of okra water

    Okra Water: Health Benefits and How to Make It

    This tender vegetable is an excellent source of fiber, vitamins, and antioxidants and has many health benefits.1 Okra water can help boost your immune system, fight inflammation, and improve your heart health.2

    Okra water contains a high amount of soluble fiber, antioxidants, and vitamin C, which makes it a nourishing drink for your body. Here are some of the health benefits of okra water:

    • Boosts immune system: Okra water contains vitamin C and other nutrients that can help strengthen your immune system and protect your body against infections, viruses, and diseases.
    • Prevents constipation: The soluble fiber found in okra water can help regulate bowel movements and reduce symptoms of constipation, as it acts as a natural laxative.
    • Regulates blood sugar levels: If you have diabetes or pre-diabetes, drinking okra water may help stabilize your blood sugar levels and improve insulin sensitivity. The fiber in okra water slows down the absorption of sugar from your intestines and into your bloodstream, which can prevent blood sugar spikes.
    • Lowers cholesterol: The soluble fiber in okra water can also help reduce harmful cholesterol levels in your blood. By binding to bile acids in your gut, the fiber prevents them from being absorbed, forcing your liver to produce more bile from existing cholesterol, lowering your cholesterol levels.

    How to use okra water

    You can drink okra water as a refreshing beverage by adding ice cubes, lemon wedges, mint, herbs, or your favorite sweeteners. I like to use 2 parts water to 1 part okra water, and add lemon, mint, and ice.

    Okra water can also be used as a base for smoothies, juice blends, or tea infusions. Use okra water in recipes that call for liquid, such as soups, stews, and sauces.

    When using okra water in cooking, remember that it has a neutral taste and can thicken liquids due to its natural mucilage. To avoid slimy textures, use okra water in moderation or mix it with other liquids.


    Tips for growing and harvesting okra

    How to Grow Okra

    How to grow Okra - 7 tips for delicious okra

    Okra water is a simple and affordable way to boost your health and enjoy the benefits of this nutritious vegetable. Whether you grow your own okra plant or buy fresh okra from your local farmers’ market, you can enjoy the many flavors and nutrients that okra has to offer. So try okra water and see how it can benefit your body and taste buds!


    Sources that offer more information on the health benefits of okra:

    1. “Okra Nutrition Facts.” Healthline, 22 May 2020, https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/okra-nutrition.
    2. “Okra: Health Benefits and Nutritional Information.” Medical News Today, 22 June 2018, https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/318595.

    Disclaimer: The information provided in this blog post about the potential health benefits of okra water is for educational purposes only and not intended as medical advice. Always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before changing your diet or lifestyle. The author and publisher of this blog post are not responsible for any adverse effects that may arise from using the information provided herein.


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  • Arizona Garden in August

    Arizona Garden in August

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    Low desert Arizona garden in August

    What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in August? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona. Gardening during the summer months in Arizona is challenging. In this post, you will learn what to plant, fertilize, harvest, and prune during August to have a successful garden in Arizona.

    Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    What to do in your low desert Arizona garden in August

    Arizona Garden in August #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #augustgarden #gardening #gardenlist The low desert of Arizona includes cities in and around Phoenix, including Glendale, Scottsdale, Paradise Valley, Mesa, Tempe, Chandler, Gilbert, Peoria, Apache Junction, Buckeye, Fountain Hills, Tolleson, Surprise, Sun City, Queen Creek, and Goodyear.

    Monsoon Gardening in Arizona: How to Garden During Monsoon Season

    If monsoon conditions exist, consider a “monsoon planting.” August is an excellent time for a monsoon planting of several summer vegetables to take advantage of the rain and higher humidity of the monsoon season.

    Monsoon planting can yield harvests in September and October. To learn more about monsoon gardening, read this post.


    What to Grow and Plant Arizona Garden #arizonagarden #arizona #garden #garden

    Low desert Arizona garden beds in August

    Arizona Garden in August #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #augustgarden #gardening #gardenlist

    Cut peppers back to new growth to encourage a new flush of growth and fall crop. Remove debris around plants to discourage pests. 


    Armenian cucumbers are best when picked young.

    Cantaloupe grows well during August.

    Sweet potatoes are taking off. I fertilize them once over the summer

    Okra harvests happen daily during August.

    Monsoon planting of tepary beans is growing well.

    Arizona Garden in August #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #augustgarden #gardening #gardenlist

    Malabar spinach is producing well and will continue until we get a frost. Consider leaving a spot for it in your fall garden if you have room. 


    Arizona Garden in August #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #augustgarden #gardening #gardenlist

    It’s a great time to plant beans in your Arizona garden in August and get a fall harvest of your favorite types. 


    What to Grow and Plant Arizona Garden #arizonagarden #arizona #garden #garden

    Low desert Arizona flowers in August

    Keep flowers deadheaded to encourage more blooms. Plan your wildflower garden for fall. 

    Gaillardia is a perennial wildflower that can grow nearly year-round in Arizona.

    Zinnias are heat-loving flowers that grow well during August

    Four o'clock thrives during the summer months in Arizona
    Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9B

    Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
    PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.



    What to Grow and Plant Arizona Garden #arizonagarden #arizona #garden #garden

    Low desert Arizona fruit trees in August


    Fruit Tree Fertilizer

    Keep fruit picked on fruit trees. Clean up rotten or fallen fruit to help prevent leaf-footed bugs. Don’t prune this month. Fertilize citrus this month or at the beginning of September.

    Lemons and key limes begin to ripen. Harvest as needed. They will continue to ripen over the next several months. The flavor is best right after picking. Lemons can be stored in the fridge for a couple of weeks, but it’s best to leave lemons on the tree until needed. Read this article for citrus growing tips


    Arizona Garden in August #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #augustgarden #gardening #gardenlist

    Fig harvests continue during August in Arizona

    What to Grow and Plant Arizona Garden #arizonagarden #arizona #garden #garden

    Low desert Arizona herbs in August

    Perennial herbs may look a little spent. Continue to harvest as needed but wait until September to give them a good trim and decide if you want to replant.

    Arizona Garden in August #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #augustgarden #gardening #gardenlist

    Harvest and use basil. Cutting back basil often encourages new growth and keeps it from flowering and going to seed. This article shares how to grow basil


    Arizona Garden in August #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #augustgarden #gardening #gardenlist

    Fennel is flowering and going to seed. The bees and other pollinators love it. 


    Arizona Herb Planting Guide_ A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert Herbs

    Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.


    Low desert Arizona garden in August “to do” list

    Arizona Garden in August
    • Purchase garlic this month if you haven’t already. If growing hardneck garlic, store it in the fridge until it is time to plant in October. You can also store soft neck varieties in the fridge until it is time to plant.
    • If you want to plant potatoes next month, purchase organic potatoes and let them sprout in your cupboard.
    • Refresh containers with additional raised bed mix. Organic matter decomposes and needs to be replenished. I love this soil mix for raised beds and containers.
    • Remove spent artichoke heads to save the seeds.
    • Harvest any remaining I’itoi onions.
    • Save sunflower seeds.
    • Deadhead annual flowers (cut off spent blooms).
    • Apply the last round of citrus fertilizer to citrus between August and September. Water well the day before you fertilize and again after fertilizing. August is the time for the third application of citrus fertilizer. Fertilize citrus on or around Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day each year.
    Arizona Garden in August
    • Evaluate plants around the yard. If they are overly stressed, check watering and shade/sun conditions. Consider moving or replanting in another spot later in the fall to improve conditions.
    • Contain the urge to plant landscape plants if possible; planting in September is a much better time to plant landscape plants.
    • Continue to mulch plants.
    • Cut back perennials by ⅓ to clean up and encourage new growth.
    • Water plants twice as deep as normal once this month to leach salts from soil around plants roots.
    • Plan your wildflower garden for fall.
    • Spray off plants with water about once a week to control spider mites

    What to plant in the low desert of Arizona in August


    Before planting:


    Vegetables, herbs & fruit to plant in the low desert in August

    (Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

    After August 15

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant


    Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead Take the summer off!

    Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors in August

    (Click the link for seed sources.)


    Perpetual Herb, Fruit & Vegetable Planting Calendar Zone 9b
    • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    • HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
    • Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).


    Flowers to plant in the low desert in August

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant


    Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in August

    (Click the link for seed sources.)


    How to Start Seeds Indoors: 10 Steps for Success

    How To Harden Off Seedlings

    Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert Vegetables

    Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant vegetables in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

    With more than 50 vegetables listed that grow well in the low desert of Arizona, you are sure to find one to try. 


    How to grow a vegetable garden in Arizona #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #desertgardening #hotweathergarden #howtogarden

    Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers


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    Angela Judd

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  • Ten More Ideas for Vertical Gardening

    Ten More Ideas for Vertical Gardening

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    Discover ten more ideas for vertical gardening, from cattle panels to trellis netting and more. Learn how to incorporate these ideas into your garden and get inspired to grow with vertical space today!

    One of my most viewed YouTube videos covers various ways to incorporate vertical gardening into your space. Since publishing that video nearly three years ago, I have continued implementing new vertical gardening techniques in my garden. Here are some of my favorite new ways to garden vertically.


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    Ten More Ideas for Vertical Gardening

    Lisianthus growing up through trellis netting.
    Lisianthus growing up through trellis netting

    1. Cattle panels

    Indeterminate tomatoes on a cattle panel trellis
    Indeterminate tomatoes on a cattle panel trellis

    In my first video, there were so many comments about how much people love using cattle panels for vertical space. I love using them too. Cattle panels, with their sturdy structure and open grid, are excellent tools for vertical gardening. Here are some creative ways to use them:

    Ideas for Growing Vertically
    • Tomato Towers: Use cattle panels to create tomato towers. The open grid provides perfect support for these heavy fruiting vines.
    • Cucumber Trellis: Shape a cattle panel into an arch and secure it between two garden beds to create a cucumber trellis. It allows cucumbers to hang down for easy picking.
    • Bean Tunnel: Create a tunnel using a cattle panel for climbing beans. This not only makes harvesting easier but also provides a fun garden feature.
    • Pea Fence: Peas need something to cling to as they grow. A cattle panel, with its small grid squares, is ideal for this.
    • Vertical Squash Support: Use cattle panels to grow squash vertically to save space and prevent pest damage and rot when fruits rest on the ground.
    Beans and melons on a cattle panel trellis
    Beans and melons on a cattle panel trellis

    2. Trellis netting

    Ideas for Growing Vertically: Lisianthus growing up through trellis netting

    Using trellis netting is an easy way to keep your cut flowers buzzing with pollinators and looking beautiful.

    Lisianthus growing up through trellis netting

    Many of my favorite cut flowers grow quite tall, and staking them individually can be tedious. Enter trellis netting – a flower farmer’s idea for vertical gardening you can add to your garden. I used trellis netting this season to support my lisianthus.

    Lisianthus growing up through trellis netting
    • I put wooden pole supports in each corner and then stretched the net between the poles. I used this trellis netting from Amazon.
    • The netting is held taught between the four stakes.
    • Cut off the excess netting.
    • The flowers grow up and are supported by the netting.
    • For taller flowers, use two layers of netting several inches apart.
    Ideas for Growing Vertically: Lisianthus growing up through trellis netting

    Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9B

    Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
    PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.


    3. Freyr trellis

    The Freyr trellis is a timeless way to add structure and beauty to your garden – attach a string or jute netting to a pole and watch your plants grow. 

    The Freyr Trellis is a timeless way to add structure and beauty to your garden – attach a string or jute netting to a pole and watch your plants grow. 

    Well-designed, well-made, easy to install, and easy to use. You can attach strings to the pole and use a vertical string technique or attach jute netting. The Freyr trellis is available from Seattle Urban Farm Company. It is not inexpensive but will last many years. I added this jute netting from Amazon.

    Freyr trellis before adding netting and Freyr trellis full of Armenian cucumber vines and fruit
    Freyr trellis before adding netting and Freyr trellis full of Armenian cucumber vines and fruit

    4. Use the space between existing supports

    Jute strung between two rebar poles with tomatillo plants growing up
    Jute strung between two rebar poles with tomatillo plants growing up

    Who knew rebar could be so useful? I’m almost embarrassed to admit this next one. I’ve had this rebar trellis since 2015, and I realized this season I could use the poles for vertical supports in the middle of the bed.

    Jute strung between two rebar poles with tomatillo plants growing up

    Stringing jute across the bed worked well to support these tomatillos this season. If you’re looking for ideas for vertical gardening, look at your garden and see where you already have supports in place. Could you use them to support vertical growing crops?

    Jute strung between two rebar poles with tomatillo plants growing up

    5. Gracie Modern Arbor

    If you’re looking for a statement piece, try a Gracie Modern Arbor.

    Ideas for Growing Vertically: Gracie Modern Arbor

    I’ve admired the beauty and elegance of this arbor for years and was thrilled to add one at the entrance to my garden last fall. Currently, luffa vines are making their way up, and hopefully, the coral vine I planted will take off and take over this arbor as well. The Gracie Modern Arbor was simple to install, exceptionally well-made, and available for purchase from Terra Trellis.

     Ideas for Growing Vertically: Gracie Modern Arbor

    More Ideas for Vertical Gardening


    6. Ladder mesh block trellises

    Ideas for Growing Vertically: Ladder mesh block is inexpensive and versatile. It's the perfect size to add to grow bags and other containers.

    I keep finding more ways to use ladder mesh block to garden vertically, so I’m including this vertical gardening idea again. Ladder mesh block is inexpensive and versatile. It’s the perfect size to add to grow bags and other containers. This season I’m growing cantaloupe, Armenian cucumbers, and butternut squash on these versatile trellises.


    7. Tomato cages

    More ideas for vertical gardening

    One of the most common ideas for vertical gardening is using tomato cages. I didn’t include these in the first video, but I use them all the time, and I’m guessing you have some in your garden too! They often get a bad rap, but they can be a cost-effective solution. They are a good option for supporting smaller determinate tomatoes and peppers. You can buy sturdier ones online or check your local nursery for different options.

    More ideas for vertical gardening

    8. Galvanized cube towers

    I was excited when I saw these at a local nursery. Galvanized cube towers – here’s what I love about them. They are easy to install by pushing the supports down into the soil. Once in place, they are sturdy and secure. The interior is large, with plenty of room for crops to grow. The towers are also collapsable for easy storage. Purchase them at local nurseries or online from Midwest Wire Works.

    More ideas for vertical gardening

    9. Whiskey barrel supports

    More ideas for vertical gardening

    I’m a huge fan of growing in whiskey barrels. My friend’s husband welds these supports that fit inside them perfectly. I’ve seen variations of these types of trellises for sale in other places as well. Adding a trellis doubles your growing space. Whiskey barrel supports are perfect for growing sweet peas, one of my favorite climbing flowers.

    More ideas for vertical gardening

    10. Bamboo poles

    Ideas for Growing Vertically: Borlotti beans with bamboo poles for growing vertically

    Humble bamboo poles are inexpensive and so versatile. Use one or use several. Is something growing that needs a little extra support? Push a bamboo pole into the ground near the base of the plant. I use these clips to attach the stem to the pole (if needed).

    Ideas for Growing Vertically: Borlotti beans with bamboo poles for growing vertically

    If you know what you are growing will require support (like these borlotti beans), put the poles in place when planting. I purchase my bamboo poles from Amazon.

    Ideas for Growing Vertically: Borlotti beans with bamboo poles for growing vertically

    Let me know in the comments your ideas for vertical gardening. Don’t forget to check out the other vertical gardening resources available on my blog and YouTube.

    Vertical Gardening Ideas

    Vertical Gardening: 10 Vegetables that Love to Climb

    Maximize your garden space with ladder gardening. Learn how ladders boost plant health and add aesthetic charm to any outdoor area.

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  • How to Grow Coral Vine: Growing Queen’s Wreath

    How to Grow Coral Vine: Growing Queen’s Wreath

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     On a recent tour of my garden, the coral vine was in full bloom, and it stole the show. This stunning late-summer bloomer stops people in mid-sentence to ask, “What is that?” and “Where can I get it?”  Learn how to grow coral vine, and decide if it’s right to add to your yard and garden.

    The pink flower clusters with curling tendrils of coral vine are also impressive in floral arrangements. Coral vine is a crowd and bee-pleaser for sure. 


    How to Grow Coral Vine: Growing Queen's Wreath and Mexican Creeper

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    3 Tips For How To Grow Coral Vine


    1. Before planting, learn if coral vine is considered an invasive species where you live.

    How to Grow Coral Vine: Growing Queen's Wreath and Mexican Creeper

    Coral vine (Antigonon leptopus) is also aptly called Queen’s Wreath, Mexican Creeper, and Chain of Love. It is a fast-growing tropical vine with showy pink and white flowers that grows in USDA zones 9-11. 

    This Mexican native plant is considered invasive in certain parts of the world, including some south-eastern areas of the United States such as Florida. However, in dry, desert regions of the U.S., like Arizona, it is a rapid grower but not considered invasive.  

    This website has information to help you determine if coral vine is considered invasive in your area. If it is invasive where you live, do not plant it.  

    What is an invasive species? 

    An invasive species is “an alien species whose introduction does or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health” as per Executive Order 13112: Section1. Definitions.


    2. Understand how coral vine grows.

    How to Grow Coral Vine_ Growing Queen's Wreath and Mexican Creeper
    Each blossom develops into a seed
    How to Grow Coral Vine_ Growing Queen's Wreath and Mexican Creeper

    Coral vine is grown from seed or transplant. Transplants are usually the best option.

    • In some areas, underground tubers develop as the plant grows and spreads the vine to other areas.
    • Coral vine also readily self-seeds as small seeds drop from within the dried flower petals. 
    • The thornless vines with deep green heart-shaped leaves and tendrils will readily climb a trellis or any available area. 
    • Coral vine begins to bloom in August, with peak blooms in October until frost. 
    • The showy pink flowers attract bees, and hundreds of bees are often along the vine in full bloom. 
    • Frost kills the vines, but underground tubers send out new shoots the following spring. Cut back the vines to nearly ground level once the danger of frost is passed in the spring.
    How to Grow Coral Vine_ Growing Queen's Wreath and Mexican Creeper

    3. Care for coral vine correctly.

    • Plant coral vine transplants (preferred) or seeds after the danger of frost has passed. 
    • Choose a location to plant coral vine that you want to shade in the summer but have sun in the winter, as the vine will die back and be dormant in the coldest months of the year. (see photos below)
    • Give coral vine plenty of room to spread; the vine is vigorous and does well on an arbor or large trellis.
    • Coral vine tolerates most soils and does not need fertilizer or overly-rich soil. 
    • Water coral vine frequently when first planted. Once established, coral vine is drought tolerant and only needs water weekly during summer or dry spells. 
    • Coral vine thrives in full sun (even Arizona’s full sun) and heat; it will tolerate partial shade. 
    • Trim vines back as needed throughout the growing season. 
    • Prune back and remove all browned vines after frost. Vines can also be left to overwinter and pruned back in the spring. Mulch to protect tubers from freezing temperatures. 
    • Vines will rapidly regrow in the spring. 
    How to Grow Coral Vine_ Growing Queen's Wreath and Mexican Creeper
    In early spring, Coral Vine’s leaves and tendrils begin to grow

    Coral vine season by season


    Pollinators love coral vine


    Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?

    Beautiful Vines That Grow From Seed

    This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one. 

    Arizona Vine Planting Guide A Visual Guide to Planting and Growing Low Desert Vines


    Want to add more color to your garden with flowers?

    Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9B

    Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
    PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.


    How to grow a vegetable garden in Arizona #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #desertgardening #hotweathergarden #howtogarden

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  • Arizona Garden in September

    Arizona Garden in September

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    Low Desert Arizona garden in September

    Arizona Garden in September

    What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in September? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona. 

    Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

    September! We’ve almost made it through the long hot summer. The good news – lots to plant this month in the garden. The bad news – the days are still hot. Even so, the mornings and evenings are beginning to cool off, reminding us why we love to live in Arizona!

    Gardening in Arizona means there is something to plant or harvest year-round. Most vegetables can be grown in Arizona if they are planted at the right time, and for many vegetables, September is the right time. Prepare your Arizona garden in September for fall planting by amending it with compost and organic fertilizer.

    September harvest of cucumbers, sweet potatoes, cantaloupe, beans, okra, and roselle.
    September harvest of Armenian cucumbers, sweet potatoes, cantaloupe, beans, cucumbers, okra, and roselle.

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    Arizona garden in September

    Pests in the low desert Arizona garden in September

    Unfortunately, the slightly cooler temperatures of September are inviting for pests. It is important to make efforts to prevent pests organically, but not all pests can be prevented. Be on the lookout this month for infestations in the garden. Read this article for organic pest control that really works


    Arizona Garden in September #gardening #garden #arizonagarden

    Spider mites are a type of arachnid. Relatives of spiders and ticks, they can suck the life out of plants (literally).

    Prune out large infestations, and spray off with water. Spray plants off with water regularly to prevent future infestations.


    Arizona Garden in September #gardening #garden #arizonagarden

    Tecoma plants, yellow bells, and bougainvillea often get infested with small caterpillars at this time of year. If the plant is large, it usually survives the infestation without affecting the tree’s overall health.

    If you decide to treat, here are a few choices: spray off with water or use BT. When the weather cools a bit, the caterpillars will have moved on. Prune severely infected branches. 


    Whiteflies are active in the warm weather of late summer and early fall.

    Aphids are most active in cooler weather.


    What to Grow and Plant Arizona Garden #arizonagarden #arizona #garden #garden

    What’s growing in the low desert Arizona garden in September?


    Arizona Garden in September #gardening #garden #arizonagarden

    Keep up with daily okra harvests this month.

    Roselle blooms, and harvests begin in earnest this month.

    Peanuts may be ready for harvest this month.

    Peanuts may be ready for harvest this month.


    Arizona garden in September

    Peppers are picking back up again. If you did not give them a light prune in August, go ahead and do it in September. Mulch plants with compost and water deeply. 


    Several types of winter squash grow well throughout September. Many will be ready to harvest next month.

    Several types of winter squash grow well throughout September. Many will be ready to harvest next month.


    Luffa fruit forms and grows quickly this month. Hand pollinate if female blossoms are not forming fruit.

    Cucamelon vines thrive in September's temperatures.
    Black-eyed pea harvest in a bed of sweet potato leaves
    Black-eyed pea harvest in a bed of sweet potato leaves

    What to Grow and Plant Arizona Garden #arizonagarden #arizona #garden #garden

    Which flowers are growing in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

    September is a time of change in the annual flower bed. Clear out summer blooming annuals and amend beds well with compost. Once daytime temps are consistently below 100℉ (37.8°C) and nights cool down below 80°F (26.7°C) plant cool-season annuals from seed and transplants. Water newly-planted annuals each day until they show new growth and are established. 


    Blue Daze is an evergreen member of the morning glory family with blue flowers. This low-maintenance plant thrives in tree wells or containers.  

    Blue Daze is an evergreen member of the morning glory family with blue flowers. This low-maintenance plant thrives in tree wells or containers.  


    Blackfoot daisy loves hot, dry conditions and does well in rocky areas. This low-mounding perennial gets about 2 feet wide and 1 foot high. 


    Gomphrena blooms steal the show this month.

    Zinnias continue blooming through the next month or two

    Collect seeds from blooming four o'clocks this month.

    Lisianthus blooms continue during September.

    Sunset cosmos reseeds easily and blooms through the fall.

    Sunset cosmos reseeds easily and blooms through the fall.


    Vinca blooms well in Arizona gardens all summer long.

    Purple hyacinth bean vine blooms this month.

    What to Grow and Plant Arizona Garden #arizonagarden #arizona #garden #garden

    What’s happening with fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in September?


    What's happening with fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

    Lemons are beginning to ripen in September. Skin color is not always an indicator of ripeness, so taste the fruit to see when it is ready.

    Fruit stores best on the tree. The longer the fruit stays on the tree, the sweeter the fruit becomes. Fruit will not ripen once picked. Ripe citrus fruit can be left on the tree for up to 6 months, depending on the variety.


    What's happening with fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

    Many varieties of pomegranates will be ready to harvest in October or November. Remove fallen and infested fruit to keep leaf-footed bugs under control.

    Want to learn more about growing pomegranates? This article will help


    What to Grow and Plant Arizona Garden #arizonagarden #arizona #garden #garden

    What’s happening with herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in September?


    What's happening with herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

    Basil is going strong. Continue to harvest to keep the basil from going to seed. Try one of my favorite ways to use fresh basil in this recipe. This article shares how to grow basil


    What's happening with herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

    The oregano, mint, and other perennial herbs look haggard. Once temperatures dip below 100℉, trim them back by about 1/3 and feed with organic fertilizer and water well.


    What's happening with herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

    How to grow sage

    Arizona low desert garden in September to-do list:

    • Prune summer-damaged perennial herbs back by about 1/3.
    • Do not prune fruit trees this month. 
    • Fertilize citrus trees, if you didn’t do it in late August. Water citrus deeply this month, before and after fertilizing. Skip fertilizing grapefruit this time, they require less fertilizer than other types of citrus trees.
    • Once daytime temperatures are consistently below 90℉ remove shade cloth (if using).
    • Check your watering system, and fix any leaks. I use the watering grids from Garden in Minutes. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100
    • When daytime temperatures are below 100℉, begin to adjust the time between watering citrus and other fruit trees to around twice a month. Water deeply but not as often as in the summer months
    • Clear out summer-blooming annuals and make room for cool-season flowers and annuals.
    • Save seeds from zinnias and other summer flowers and vegetables.
    • Find seed potatoes and begin the process of “chitting” them, so they will be ready to plant late this month or October. Learn more about how to grow potatoes in this article
    • Order garlic so you are ready to plant it in October. Store it in the fridge until it’s time to plant. 
    • Begin fertilizing roses again this month. Keep up with watering every few days until temperatures cool in October. Once temperatures are below 100℉, prune roses lightly to remove dead or diseased canes.
    • Plant spring-flowering perennials this month.
    • Plan your wildflower & winter flower garden.
    • Refresh in-bed vermicomposting bins or start new bins when nighttime temperatures are consistently below 85°F.


    What to plant in the low desert of Arizona in September


    Before planting:


    Vegetables, herbs & fruit to plant in the low desert in September:

    Vegetables, herbs & fruit to plant in the low desert in September:

    After September 15 (or when nighttime temps begin to drop)

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant


    Perpetual Herb, Fruit & Vegetable Planting Calendar Zone 9b
    • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    • HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
    • Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).

    Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors in September

    Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors in September

    (Click the link for seed sources.)


    Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert Vegetables

    Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant vegetables in Arizona, and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

    With 50 vegetables listed that grow well in the low desert of Arizona you are sure to find one to try. 


    Flowers to plant in the low desert Arizona garden in September:

    Flowers to plant in the low desert Arizona garden in September:
    • Baby’s Breath (ST)
    • Begonia (T)
    • Bells of Ireland (S)
    • Dianthus (T)

    After September 15 (or when nighttime temps begin to drop)

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant


    Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in September

    Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in September

    (Click the link for seed sources.)


    Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar is available in my shop

    Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9B

    Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
    PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.


    Arizona low desert garden in September

    Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers


    How to grow a vegetable garden in Arizona #arizonagardening #arizonagarden #desertgardening #hotweathergarden #howtogarden

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    Angela Judd

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  • How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

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    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    The satisfaction you feel as you turn yard and kitchen waste into organic fertilizer that nourishes the soil, as well as your vegetables, plants, and flowers, is the reward for putting in the effort to learn how to compost. 

    However, the thought of learning how to compost can be intimidating. The first time I started composting, I was great at growing flies – but not compost. I did not know how to compost, and felt like composting wasn’t for me. It was too hard, too stinky, and there were too many bugs. Can you relate to any of those feelings? 

    Fast forward a couple of years. I decided to enroll in Master Gardener classes where two crucial things occurred:

    1. I learned the correct way to compost from a local composting expert.      
    2. Volunteering at the demonstration garden gave me hands-on experience learning how to compost.

    With this newfound knowledge and experience, I was ready to try again. I applied what I learned and put that knowledge to work, and guess what? I was successful and had fresh compost for my garden. Since that time, I’ve added hundreds of pounds of homemade fertilizer to my garden beds.  


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    There are as many methods of composting as there are gardeners, but this is the method that works for me using the type of compost bin offered through my city for $5 each. This method can also be adapted to other types of bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    1. Choose a location to compost

    Here are a few necessities for the location:

    • Plenty of room – the bins I use are 3 feet wide and 2 ½ feet tall. Plan on room for at least 2 bins. Ideally, there is 3 to 4 feet clearance in front of the bins.
    • Access to water – wetting down the compost with a hose helps speed up the process, especially in dry climates like the low desert of Arizona.
    • Shade – prevents compost from drying out as quickly and it’s easier for you to work in. 
    • Wheelbarrow access – room to maneuver in and out is helpful.

    2. Obtain compost bins

    The bins need to be around 3 feet wide and 2 to 3 feet deep (smaller bins won’t heat up as well), have lids, holes drilled in the sides for airflow, and bottomless. For the method I use, you need more than one bin. For smaller yards, 2 bins work fine. Larger yards could use 3, 4, or more bins.  

    Call your local city to see if they offer bins. This type of bin may also be found online on places like OfferUp and Craigslist. If you live in the City of Mesa (AZ), call 480-644-2221 to request a bin. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    3. Gather the correct tools for composting

    The right tools make composting much easier. I use the following tools: (click on the name to see the ones I use on Amazon).


    4. Learn what and what not to compost​

    Do Compost:  Don’t Compost: Compost with Care: 
    Leaves Meat / bones Bermuda grass clippings 
    Grass clippings Dairy Citrus peels (take a long time to break down)
    Coffee grounds Animal waste Ashes (adds alkalinity)
    Vegetable scraps Diseased plants  
    Egg shells Oil  
    Plant material Weeds with seeds    
    Fruit and peels    

    Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

    5. Understand the difference between green and brown materials

    What can I compost?
    What can I compost?
    Green Materials  Brown Materials 
    Nitrogen-rich, wet, colorful Carbon-rich, dry 
    Grass clippings Dry brown leaves
    Coffee and tea grounds Egg shells
    Green garden trimmings Hay and straw
    Fruit scraps, peels Shredded paper
    Vegetable scraps, peels Dryer lint

    How to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a Garden

    How to Become a
Self-Sufficient Gardener

    6. Fill the bins

    Place alternating layers of green and brown material. Aim for 3 parts brown material for every 1 part of green material. When using food waste, make sure it is buried under a layer of browns to avoid problems with flies. 

    Mist the layers with water as you add them to assure that the pile is adequately moist. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    7. Observe the compost​

    As decomposition starts, the pile begins to heat up. This is where the thermometer comes in handy. As long as your compost is nice and hot (110℉ – 160℉), you don’t need to do much. Once it cools (below 100℉), go to the next step. 

    See troubleshooting tips (below) if you aren’t sure what is happening inside the bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    8. Rotate the compost through your bins​

    Cooled-down compost that isn’t broken down completely needs to have air and water added back into it to heat it back up

    Use the pitchfork and shovel to move the green and brown materials from the cooled bin into an empty bin, re-moistening as you go. Break up any clumps of grass or leaves. No empty bin? Use the pitchfork to turn the material inside the bin, wetting it as you work. 

    Once all material is rotated through, watch the pile – it should begin to heat back up (110℉ – 160℉) within a day or so. When the temperatures drop back down again (below 100℉), repeat this step. Once the compost has an earthy odor and is dark brown and crumbly, the process is complete. 

    This step is why having more than one bin is so important. Ideally, the compost rotates through the bins and then is complete. After moving the material out of a bin, refill it with new green and brown materials to begin the process again. Keep moving the materials through the bins, leaving one bin open to rotate the compost into


    9. Use the compost​

    Spring Gardening in Arizona

    Success! A full bin of completed compost is gold for your garden. Use the shovel, pails, and wheelbarrow to scoop the completed compost and add it to your garden beds.

    If desired, use a soil sifter like this one from Amazon to remove any large pieces from your completed compost. Toss the large pieces back into the compost pile to finish breaking down.


    10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost​

    The tricky part of learning how to compost is that at any given time, you will be doing several of these steps with different bins.

    Be patient with yourself and pay attention to what is going on in each bin. Learn from your mistakes and build on your successes. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Troubleshooting Tips

    Symptom  Problem Solution
    Many flies  Green items or food exposed to air  Cover pile with brown materials.
    Wet compost – not heating up Add more brown material  Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials. Do not wet down between layers. 
    Dry compost – not heating up Materials may be too large, needs more green Transfer to a new bin and layer in more green materials. Wet down between layers. Cut down larger items if necessary.
    Bad odor like rotten eggs Materials too wet, not enough oxygen, or too compacted Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Bad odor like ammonia Not enough brown materials Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Compost heats up and then cools down Compost needs turned Transfer to a new bin, moistening layers as you go. 
    Warm only in the middle Compost pile too small Aim for the compost pile to be 3 feet wide and 2 ½ to 3 feet deep.
    Matted layers of leaves or grass Material won’t break down, will become slimy Avoid thick layers – break up layers with pitchfork and remix the pile adding in brown materials.
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success


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    Audrey

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  • Russian Sage Plant Care & Growing Guide – Get Busy Gardening

    Russian Sage Plant Care & Growing Guide – Get Busy Gardening

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    Russian sage is easy to care for and fun to grow in any perennial flower bed or landscaping.

    The airy foliage and vibrant flowers make it a beautiful and low-maintenance addition to any beginner’s garden.

    But even the easiest plants need the right attention and environment to thrive.

    This Russian sage care guide is designed to help you learn exactly what they need. You’ll find tips on water, sun, soil, temperature, and so much more all in one place.

    How To Care For Russian Sage

    Quick Russian Sage Care Overview

    Scientific name: Perovskia atriplicifolia
    Classification: Perennial
    Common names: Russian sage
    Hardiness: Zones 4-9
    Temperature: 60-95°F (15.5-35°C)
    Flowers: Blue, purple, blooms early summer-mid-fall
    Light: Full sun
    Water: Allow it to dry between waterings, do not overwater
    Humidity: Average to low
    Fertilizer: None
    Soil: Sandy, well-draining
    Common pests: Pest repellent

    Information About Russian Sage

    Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) is a wood flowering perennial from the Lamiaceae, or mint, family. Despite the common name, it’s actually native to central Asia.

    It’s a drought-tolerant, low-maintenance herbaceous plant that’s characterized by the tall thin spires, or panicles, and vibrant blooms. It can reach heights of 2-5’ tall and spread between 2-3’ wide.

    Each branch has feathery gray-green leaves and either blue or violet flowers. Both are very aromatic, especially when crushed, which makes them popular for potpourris.

    It’s naturally pest and disease resistant, versatile in landscaping, and requires very little hands-on care.

    Different Types Of Russian Sage

    There are many varieties of Russian sage, and each one features a slightly different growth habit and appearance.

    Thankfully, no matter which you choose, they all require the same general care. Here are some of the more popular cultivars you could try.

    • ‘Denim n Lace’ – The pale blue flowers and gray-green foliage grow on upright stems that don’t exceed about 3’ in height.
    • ‘Blue Jean Baby’ – This compact, 2-3’, deer-resistant variety has blue flowers, gray-green leaves, and a strong sage-like scent.
    • ‘Crazy Blue’ – This variety is known for very compact 18” heights and dense foliage with vibrant, violet flowers.
    • ‘Blue Spire’ – Tall spires of 4’ or more topped with at least 1’ of violet flowers are hallmarks of this cultivar.

    Flowers

    Russian sage is known for its long-lasting blue or violet flowers that bloom between early summer and mid-fall.

    They appear along the top third of each stem and often remain until temperatures begin to cool in the fall.

    The blooms are very small, but abundant and fragrant. They repel most garden pests, but are attractive to pollinators and hummingbirds.

    Flowers on a Russian sage plant
    Flowers on a Russian sage plant

    Toxicity

    According to this ASPCA list of non-toxic plants, Russian sage is not considered poisonous to animals.

    So adding it to your garden is a safe choice if you have pets like dogs and cats.

    How To Grow Russian Sage

    Before we dive into Russian sage plant care, first we need to chat about where to grow it.

    The right location is the best way to ensure abundant blooms and healthy growth year after year.

    Hardiness

    Russian sage is very hardy, and is a perennial in zones 4-9. It can handle extreme cold or hot weather without any issue.

    It can often survive even lower zones with added winter protection, like mulch, or in a warmer microclimate area of your yard.

    Where To Grow Russian Sage

    The bushy growth and hardiness of Perovskia atriplicifolia make it a popular addition to outdoor gardens as hedging or landscaping plants, and it also does well in large containers.

    Wherever you choose to grow them, they need a location with plenty of sun and good drainage to prevent issues with legginess and root rot.

    Beautiful Russian sage in my garden
    Beautiful Russian sage in my garden

    Russian Sage Plant Care & Growing Instructions

    Now that you know the perfect place to grow it, let’s talk about how to care for Russian sage. My tips will make this low-maintenance plant even easier to manage.

    Sunlight

    Russian sage needs lots of sunlight to grow upright and bushy, and to produce plenty of flowers.

    Place it somewhere that receives 6-8 hours of full sun to prevent leggy, sparse growth.

    Watering

    Perovskia atriplicifolia has average water needs. After it’s established, it is very drought tolerant and doesn’t like to be overwatered.

    Allow the soil to dry several inches down, then give it a deep, thorough drink. Avoid puddling or making it soggy, which can lead to root or stem rot.

    If yours is in a container, always drain off the excess. If you struggle with over-watering, a moisture gauge probe can be handy for helping you get it right.

    Humidity

    High to low humidity won’t bother Russian sage, it does well in moist or dry air, or anywhere in between.

    Ideally it would prefer average to low air moisture, but thrives in my garden even during the extremely humid summers in Minnesota without any issues with mildew or disease.

    Healthy silver green Russian sage foliage
    Healthy silver green Russian sage foliage

    Temperature

    Russian sage is also tolerant of a wide range of temperatures. It can handle lows from -30°F (-34.4°C) to highs over 95°F (35°C) just fine.

    It will typically stop growing when temps get down to 40°F (4.4°C) or below, and start flourishing again once it’s above 60°F (15.5°F).

    In very cold areas, you can cut it back to the ground in the fall and add a layer of mulch over it for extra protection.

    Fertilizer

    Fertilizer is not a necessary part of Russian sage care. In fact, too much nutrition can be damaging and cause them to droop.

    At most, add a light layer of compost over the top of the rootball in the spring when new growth begins.

    Blooming Russian sage plant
    Blooming Russian sage plant

    Soil

    Russian sage prefers a well-draining sandy soil, but can grow in almost any type, even poor quality ones, because it requires few nutrients.

    Avoid rich, fertile soils because they can cause the typically upright stems to fall over. Amend heavy clay beds with sand to add extra drainage.

    In containers, choose a basic potting mix and amend it with pumice or perlite to improve drainage and avoid issues of rot.

    Transplanting

    Transplant your Russian sage in the spring when temperatures are warm and you begin to see new growth, but before the heat of summer kicks in.

    Start by preparing a hole in its new location. Next, gently loosen it from its container or dig in a wide circle around the rootball to prevent damage.

    Position it at the same depth and fill in the soil around it. Press down gently and water thoroughly, adding more soil as it settles, if needed.

    Pruning

    Pruning is an important part of Russian sage care. Foliage will not grow at the tops of old woody stems after winter, so cut them back in the spring to remove the bare branches.

    You can get details on different techniques and step by step help in my guide on pruning Russian sage, but here are a few important things to know.

    • You cannot over-prune Russian sage, it’s safe to cut it all the way to the ground each year if you prefer.
    • The best time of year to trim your plant is after new growth begins in early spring.
    • The safest way to cut through the thick woody, older growth is with a sharp pair of sterile pruning shears, and then use precision snips on thinner ones.
    Growing Russian sage as an edge plant
    Growing Russian sage as an edge plant

    Pest Control Tips

    One of the great things about growing Russian sage is that it’s typically pest-free. The fragrant foliage and flowers actually act as a deterrent to most troublesome bugs and animals.

    If you do have issues with common insects, like aphids or spider mites, use an organic spray like neem oil or insecticidal soap to manage it. You can make your own by combining 1 teaspoon of mild liquid soap with 1 liter of water.

    Disease Control Tips

    Russian sage is also usually disease-free. But it can be affected by root or stem rot. The best way to manage that is with prevention. 

    Use a simple probe gauge to monitor moisture levels, don’t overwater, and ensure the soil is well-draining, especially if you live somewhere with wet winters.

    Russian sage starting to grow in the spring
    Russian sage starting to grow in the spring

    Russian Sage Propagation Tips

    You can propagate your Russian sage from cuttings, seeds, or by removing and replanting the offsets that develop at the base.

    Cuttings are the most common method. Take a healthy 4-6” long clipping from new growth in the spring or early summer.

    Dip the cut end into rooting hormone and plant it in a dampened, well-draining medium.

    Place it in full sunlight and keep it moist until new growth begins. You can then transplant it into a larger container or the garden.

    Troubleshooting Common Problems

    Russian sage truly is low-maintenance with very few issues, but no plant is completely care free. If you experience one of these problems, my tips can help you get back on track.

    Yellow Leaves

    Yellowing leaves is usually a sign of too much moisture from overwatering or high humidity. 

    Check the base of the stems or the roots for rot. Cut back on watering and prune away any rotten pieces.

    Brown Leaves

    Perovskia atriplicifolia can develop brown leaves from improper watering, either too much or not enough.

    Soft, soggy, limp stems with brown leaves is a sign of too much. While dry, crispy leaves that fall off are a symptom of excessive drought.

    Avoid watering to the point of creating soggy, wet soil, or leaving it bone-dry for long periods of time.

    Leggy Russian Sage Plant

    Leggy, sparse growth is a sign that your Russian sage either needs to be pruned, or it’s not getting enough sunlight.

    They require 6-8 hours of full sun a day, and will not grow well if they get too much shade.

    New leaves won’t appear on old woody growth, so trim away any bare branches from previous years at the beginning of each spring to rejuvenate your plant.

    Stems Falling Over

    Drooping branches or stems falling over are one of the more common issues Russian sage experiences.

    Some varieties simply have heavy stems that cannot hold themselves up. Stakes or sturdy neighboring plants can help support them.

    However, drooping can also be caused by excess water, rich soil, or lack of light. Place them in full sun in well-draining area that isn’t too nutrient rich.

    FAQs

    Here I’ve answered some of the most commonly asked questions about Russian sage care. If yours isn’t on the list, please add it to the comments section below.

    Is Russian sage easy to grow?

    Yes, Russian sage is a very easy to grow because it’s cold hardy, drought and heat tolerant, thrives in poor quality soil, isn’t picky about humidity, and doesn’t usually have issues with pests or disease.

    Does Russian sage come back every year?

    Russian sage is a perennial that will come back every year in growing zones 4-9, or in areas that don’t get below -30°F (-34.4°C).

    Is Russian sage edible?

    No, Russian sage is not edible, despite its name. However the fragrance of the crushed leaves and blossoms make them popular as a cut flower for decorating, or dried and used in potpourri.

    Where should I plant my Russian sage?

    Plant your Russian sage somewhere in full sun in gritty, well-draining soil that isn’t too fertile. Large containers with drainage holes also work well.

    Is Russian sage invasive?

    Russian sage is not considered an invasive because, while it can spread, it’s typically very slow and only occurs in the most ideal conditions. Many new cultivars are bred not to spread as much.

    Does Russian sage spread?

    Russian sage spreads, but only in highly ideal circumstances, and usually very slowly. It grows offsets near the base of the mother through underground rhizomes. You can remove and transplant them if you’d like.

    If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!

    More About Flower Gardening

    Share your Russian sage care tips in the comments section below.

    How To Care For Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)

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    Amy Andrychowicz

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  • Winter and Summer Pears: What’s the Difference?

    Winter and Summer Pears: What’s the Difference?

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    There seems to be some confusion about what a winter pear is versus a summer one.

    You might see some people describe winters as those that must ripen in cold storage for a period of several weeks or more and summers as those that are ripe straight off the tree.

    That’s not entirely accurate.

    A close up vertical image of red pears growing on the tree pictured on a soft focus background. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

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    The two types of fruits are categorized by commercial growers according to when the fruit is ready to harvest. That’s all there is to it.

    Summers are ready to pick in the summer, typically around August or early September. Winters are ready starting in late September through October.

    But there are a few winter types that are sweet enough to eat straight off the tree and a few summer types that require cold storage to fully come into their sweetness, so they can’t solely be defined by how much cold storage they require to taste their best.

    There are a few other broad generalizations that we can make about the two categories as well, and we’ll talk about those in a bit. But there are always exceptions.

    There are even some cultivars that ripen right in the period where the two categories overlap, and growers don’t totally agree on which category they belong in.

    So, it’s best to think of the two seasonally-defined categories as a general guideline rather than a hard-and-fast rule.

    Don’t worry if you’re a bit confused. We’ll make it all a bit more clear in just a second. Here’s what we’ll go over to that end:

    Whether a pear fits into either category is less important than which trees it’s a compatible pollinator with, so we’ll talk a little about that as well.

    Ready to sort it all out? Then let’s jump right in with the first topic we’re going to discuss:

    What Is a Summer Pear?

    Summer types are those that ripen starting in July and August.

    Most European pears are winter types, but ‘Bartlett,’ ‘Bon Chretien,’ ‘Flamingo,’ ‘Red Bartlett,’ ‘Rosemary,’ ‘Seckel,’ ‘Starkrimson,’ and ‘Tosca’ are all summer types.

    A close up horizontal image of a bowl filled with 'Seckel' summer pears.

    The fruits don’t ripen perfectly on the tree, no matter which category they fit into.

    They tend to get mealy or soggy in the middle before the exterior is fully sweet since they ripen from the inside out. So we pluck them when they are mature but before they become overripe.

    Summer fruits tend to ripen quickly, have thin skin, and don’t store well.

    They should be placed in a cool area for at least two or three days to be allowed to fully ripen, and once they do, you should eat them immediately.

    Most summer types are medium in size and tend to be a bit less sweet than a winter type that has been stored until fully ripe. But there are exceptions.

    ‘Bartlett’ pears, for instance, need five days in cold storage to taste their best, and they can last for a month or so in storage.

    What Is a Winter Pear?

    A winter type is one that matures in the early fall, and it typically has a thick skin that facilitates long-term storage.

    These types usually taste best if they’re allowed to ripen slowly, depending on your taste preferences, of course.

    These types store longer than summer types and can last in cold storage until the tulips start to burst through the ground in spring.

    A close up horizontal image of a pile of freshly harvested 'Bosc' fruits.

    If you opt to do some cold storage, the flavor of the fruit will be altered in a way that most people find appealing.

    The cold inhibits but doesn’t stop the ripening process. Cold storage gives them a sweeter flavor and softer, smoother flesh than they’d have straight off the tree.

    But that doesn’t mean you can’t eat them fresh off the tree or just leave them on the counter for a few days.

    Even though the fruits aren’t technically ripe, they can still be tasty fresh off the tree, and some are wonderful this way if you want a tangy, more apple-like flavor. But stick a few in a cold basement for a few weeks and see how the flavor changes.

    Fresh winter pears tend to be firm and not very sweet. If left to ripen on the tree, as noted above, the middle will usually turn mushy before the outer parts turn sugary sweet.

    But allowing them to ripen slowly after harvest in cold storage around 32°F allows the flesh to become evenly sweet throughout.

    Some of the most popular pears are winter types, like ‘Anjou,’ ‘Bosc,’ and ‘Concorde.’ We have a guide that talks about the best winter types if you’re interested in learning more (coming soon!).

    Pairing Winter and Summer Pears for Pollination

    Pear trees aren’t self-fruitful for the most part, and they need a second tree nearby in order to pollinate and flower.

    A close up horizontal image of blossom in spring pictured in light sunshine on a soft focus background.

    When it comes to winter versus summer fruits, the trees themselves are the same. You can’t look at a tree and tell if it’s a summer type or not. It’s determined by the fruit.

    Just because a tree is a late harvesting type, that doesn’t mean it flowers late as well. An early-harvesting pear might bloom later than most others. Bloom time isn’t determined by the type of fruit. 

    A close up vertical image of a cluster of Pyrus communis fruits ready for harvest pictured in light sunshine.

    As we said, the categorization here is determined by growers, and there’s some overlap. For example, one grower might call ‘Warren’ a summer fruit, though others call it a winter type.

    So when you’re picking tree pairings, don’t rely on whether it’s a winter or summer type. Take note of its bloom time and pick a companion that flowers at a similar time.

    If you’d like more information on pear pollination and how to find a pollinator friend for your tree, check out our guide.

    Don’t Get Wrapped Up in Labels

    When it comes to choosing a pear, don’t worry so much about the category.

    Just pick one you like with the characteristics you prefer, choose a pollinator to go with it, and don’t get too hung up on labels.

    A close up horizontal image of pears growing in the garden pictured in bright sunshine.

    These category descriptions are largely there for commercial growers, to help them determine when the fruit matures and how to store and transport it.

    The most important element for the home grower is figuring out how to enjoy the bounty!

    So, how do you like to use your pears? Are you a fresh fruit lover? Or do you prefer to bake them? What’s your favorite kind to cook with? Share with us in the comments.

    Hopefully this guide cleared things up a bit on how these fantastic fruits are grouped seasonally.

    If you want to know more about growing your own pears, we have a few other guides that might be useful. Check these out next:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

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    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    The satisfaction you feel as you turn yard and kitchen waste into organic fertilizer that nourishes the soil, as well as your vegetables, plants, and flowers, is the reward for putting in the effort to learn how to compost. 

    However, the thought of learning how to compost can be intimidating. The first time I started composting, I was great at growing flies – but not compost. I did not know how to compost, and felt like composting wasn’t for me. It was too hard, too stinky, and there were too many bugs. Can you relate to any of those feelings? 

    Fast forward a couple of years. I decided to enroll in Master Gardener classes where two crucial things occurred:

    1. I learned the correct way to compost from a local composting expert.      
    2. Volunteering at the demonstration garden gave me hands-on experience learning how to compost.

    With this newfound knowledge and experience, I was ready to try again. I applied what I learned and put that knowledge to work, and guess what? I was successful and had fresh compost for my garden. Since that time, I’ve added hundreds of pounds of homemade fertilizer to my garden beds.  


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    There are as many methods of composting as there are gardeners, but this is the method that works for me using the type of compost bin offered through my city for $5 each. This method can also be adapted to other types of bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    1. Choose a location to compost

    Here are a few necessities for the location:

    • Plenty of room – the bins I use are 3 feet wide and 2 ½ feet tall. Plan on room for at least 2 bins. Ideally, there is 3 to 4 feet clearance in front of the bins.
    • Access to water – wetting down the compost with a hose helps speed up the process, especially in dry climates like the low desert of Arizona.
    • Shade – prevents compost from drying out as quickly and it’s easier for you to work in. 
    • Wheelbarrow access – room to maneuver in and out is helpful.

    2. Obtain compost bins

    The bins need to be around 3 feet wide and 2 to 3 feet deep (smaller bins won’t heat up as well), have lids, holes drilled in the sides for airflow, and bottomless. For the method I use, you need more than one bin. For smaller yards, 2 bins work fine. Larger yards could use 3, 4, or more bins.  

    Call your local city to see if they offer bins. This type of bin may also be found online on places like OfferUp and Craigslist. If you live in the City of Mesa (AZ), call 480-644-2221 to request a bin. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    3. Gather the correct tools for composting

    The right tools make composting much easier. I use the following tools: (click on the name to see the ones I use on Amazon).


    4. Learn what and what not to compost​

    Do Compost:  Don’t Compost: Compost with Care: 
    Leaves Meat / bones Bermuda grass clippings 
    Grass clippings Dairy Citrus peels (take a long time to break down)
    Coffee grounds Animal waste Ashes (adds alkalinity)
    Vegetable scraps Diseased plants  
    Egg shells Oil  
    Plant material Weeds with seeds    
    Fruit and peels    

    Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

    5. Understand the difference between green and brown materials

    What can I compost?
    What can I compost?
    Green Materials  Brown Materials 
    Nitrogen-rich, wet, colorful Carbon-rich, dry 
    Grass clippings Dry brown leaves
    Coffee and tea grounds Egg shells
    Green garden trimmings Hay and straw
    Fruit scraps, peels Shredded paper
    Vegetable scraps, peels Dryer lint

    How to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a Garden

    How to Become a
Self-Sufficient Gardener

    6. Fill the bins

    Place alternating layers of green and brown material. Aim for 3 parts brown material for every 1 part of green material. When using food waste, make sure it is buried under a layer of browns to avoid problems with flies. 

    Mist the layers with water as you add them to assure that the pile is adequately moist. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    7. Observe the compost​

    As decomposition starts, the pile begins to heat up. This is where the thermometer comes in handy. As long as your compost is nice and hot (110℉ – 160℉), you don’t need to do much. Once it cools (below 100℉), go to the next step. 

    See troubleshooting tips (below) if you aren’t sure what is happening inside the bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    8. Rotate the compost through your bins​

    Cooled-down compost that isn’t broken down completely needs to have air and water added back into it to heat it back up

    Use the pitchfork and shovel to move the green and brown materials from the cooled bin into an empty bin, re-moistening as you go. Break up any clumps of grass or leaves. No empty bin? Use the pitchfork to turn the material inside the bin, wetting it as you work. 

    Once all material is rotated through, watch the pile – it should begin to heat back up (110℉ – 160℉) within a day or so. When the temperatures drop back down again (below 100℉), repeat this step. Once the compost has an earthy odor and is dark brown and crumbly, the process is complete. 

    This step is why having more than one bin is so important. Ideally, the compost rotates through the bins and then is complete. After moving the material out of a bin, refill it with new green and brown materials to begin the process again. Keep moving the materials through the bins, leaving one bin open to rotate the compost into


    9. Use the compost​

    Spring Gardening in Arizona

    Success! A full bin of completed compost is gold for your garden. Use the shovel, pails, and wheelbarrow to scoop the completed compost and add it to your garden beds.

    If desired, use a soil sifter like this one from Amazon to remove any large pieces from your completed compost. Toss the large pieces back into the compost pile to finish breaking down.


    10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost​

    The tricky part of learning how to compost is that at any given time, you will be doing several of these steps with different bins.

    Be patient with yourself and pay attention to what is going on in each bin. Learn from your mistakes and build on your successes. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Troubleshooting Tips

    Symptom  Problem Solution
    Many flies  Green items or food exposed to air  Cover pile with brown materials.
    Wet compost – not heating up Add more brown material  Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials. Do not wet down between layers. 
    Dry compost – not heating up Materials may be too large, needs more green Transfer to a new bin and layer in more green materials. Wet down between layers. Cut down larger items if necessary.
    Bad odor like rotten eggs Materials too wet, not enough oxygen, or too compacted Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Bad odor like ammonia Not enough brown materials Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Compost heats up and then cools down Compost needs turned Transfer to a new bin, moistening layers as you go. 
    Warm only in the middle Compost pile too small Aim for the compost pile to be 3 feet wide and 2 ½ to 3 feet deep.
    Matted layers of leaves or grass Material won’t break down, will become slimy Avoid thick layers – break up layers with pitchfork and remix the pile adding in brown materials.
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success


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    Audrey

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  • Wild American Plums by the Roadside | The Survival Gardener

    Wild American Plums by the Roadside | The Survival Gardener

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    In N/C Florida, we used to find a lot of wild plums in two varieties: Chickasaw and flatwoods.

    The former we planted in our front yard food forest, and then later grafted onto with multiple different species of plums.

    As for the flatwoods plum, we also had a self-planted tree in the side yard which never produced much but looked pretty.

    I’ve always been fascinated with wild fruits. Some of them are quite good! We found that to be the case with these wonderful American plums I harvested by the side of the road in Kentucky, just north of the Tennessee border.

    We’d never seen this species before, but it was covering the roadside in large patches. After spotting the first few clumps of trees and seeing them hung with red fruits, I had to pull over the van at the next convenient spot and see what sort of fruit they were.

    (My wife and children are used to me pulling over the car for random plants. In fact, I think this may be one of the reasons why my teens prefer to drive when we are on long road trips.)

    My guess was that they were a crabapple, or perhaps a mayhaw. They were hard and red. I filled my hat and brought it back to the car, then had one of the kids open one of them with my pocketknife while I was driving.

    To my delight, it had a pit inside. Wild plum! But it was a species we hadn’t seen in Florida or Alabama. The leaves are much larger than those of the wild plums I’ve seen here, and the fruit is much redder.

    Upon some investigation, they are almost certainly Prunus americana.

    According to the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, the American plum is:

    “A thicket-forming shrub or small tree with short trunk, many spreading branches, broad crown, showy large white flowers, and red plums. American plum is a small, understory tree to 35 ft. with fragrant, white flowers in showy, flat-topped clusters occuring before the leaves in spring. The fruit that follows ripens to a shiny, bright red in August or September. The short, crooked trunk – with scaly, black bark – supports a graceful, open crown. Fall foliage ranges from electric red to pale yellow.

    The plums are eaten fresh and used in jellies and preserves, and are also consumed by many kinds of birds. Numerous cultivated varieties with improved fruit have been developed. A handsome ornamental with large flowers and relatively big fruit, American Plum is also grown for erosion control, spreading by root sprouts.”

    That sounds just like what we saw.

    When we got home a couple of days later, we ate some of them and found them to be quite good. The ripe ones are sweet with a little tartness. Rachel made most of them into a half-quart of jam, which the children relished.

    It was very good!

    Of course, we saved all the pits and will be stratifying them in the fridge to see if they will germinate.

    We don’t know if they’ll grow here in Lower Alabama, two zones south of where they were thriving, but if they can, we want them in our yard! Apparently their range does extend into the Florida panhandle, so we should be good. If we can get them to grow, we’ll add them to the plant nursery as well.

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    [ad_2] David The Good
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