Category: Home & Garden

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Are you looking for a reputable and reliable cleaner in London? Are you overwhelmed by the number of options available and unsure of how to begin your search?

This guide to finding cleaners in London will definitely help. Here, you’ll find information on task cleaning, costs, booking a cleaner, and finding the best cleaning company.

What tasks can a professional domestic cleaner do in London?

Living and working in London can be a never-ending whirlwind, leaving you with little time to breathe, let alone clean your home. That’s when hiring a domestic cleaner in London can be a lifesaver. But what can they actually help you with?

Thorough dusting and surface cleaning: banishing dust bunnies

There are lots of jobs that a domestic cleaner can take off your hands, from vacuuming and mopping floors to cleaning ovens, washing windows, and even doing your laundry.

A professional domestic cleaner in London is adept at tackling dust and grime that accumulates over time. They meticulously dust and clean surfaces, from shelves and countertops to furniture and decorative items. 

By using effective cleaning techniques and high-quality products, they can banish dust bunnies and allergens, leaving your home with a fresh and immaculate feel.

Sparkling kitchen and bathroom: the heart of cleanliness

The kitchen and bathroom are often the most challenging areas to maintain in a home. However, with a professional domestic cleaner’s assistance, these spaces can truly shine. They expertly clean kitchen appliances, sanitise countertops, scrub sinks, and ensure your bathroom fixtures gleam.

Thanks to their thoroughness, you can enjoy a clean and welcoming kitchen and bathroom every day.

Floor care and vacuuming: navigating London’s foot traffic

Living in London means facing the hustle and bustle of urban life, and your floors bear the brunt of it. A professional domestic cleaner knows how to keep your floors in top condition.

From vacuuming carpets and rugs to mopping hardwood and tiled surfaces, they leave no trace of dirt or debris behind. With their floor care expertise, you can have pristine floors that enhance the overall cleanliness and aesthetics of your home.

A domestic cleaner can take care of the tasks that you don’t have time for, leaving you with a sparkling clean home and more time to focus on the things that matter most to you. So sit back, relax, and let a trusted domestic cleaner take care of the dirty work.

Home cleaning prices in London: comparing services and costs

Keeping a clean and tidy home is important for many reasons, including creating a comfortable and healthy living environment. Let’s take a look at the cost of home and flats cleaning in London.

Standard home cleaning: affordable and essential

For those seeking routine maintenance, standard home cleaning packages in London offer an affordable option.

Prices typically range from £25 to £40 per hour, depending on the size of your home and the number of rooms to be cleaned. These packages usually include dusting, vacuuming, mopping, kitchen and bathroom cleaning, and general tidying.

Standard home cleaning is perfect for maintaining a clean and tidy living space without breaking the bank.

Example: A two-bedroom flat in London might cost around £30-£35 per hour for standard home cleaning services, and take around 2-3 hours to clean.

Transparent pricing and hidden costs: making an informed choice

When it comes to comparing cleaning prices in London, transparency is crucial. Reputable cleaning companies should offer transparent and upfront pricing for their services, ensuring clarity and peace of mind for customers.

However, it’s also crucial to be wary of hidden costs that might not be immediately evident. Some companies might add extra charges for specialised cleaning tasks, travel expenses, or cleaning supplies.

By seeking clarity on pricing and identifying any potential hidden costs, you can make an informed decision that ensures the cleaning service you choose aligns with your budget, without any unexpected surprises.

Looking for cleaners in London

London life can be hectic, and finding the right cleaner to fit your specific needs can be overwhelming. That’s where Wecasa cleaning comes in.

How does Wecasa cleaning service work?

With their easy-to-use service, you can find a cleaner near you in London based on your preferences and budget.

Wecasa cleaning takes pride in their simple booking process and secure payment options, so you can rest easy knowing your home is in good hands. Their team of trusted professional cleaners are ready to tackle any job, big or small, and leave your home sparkling clean.

Say goodbye to the stress of finding the perfect cleaner and hello to an efficient, reliable service with Wecasa cleaning services.

Trusted and vetted cleaning professionals: quality and peace of mind

Each cleaner undergoes a rigorous screening process, including background checks and thorough evaluations of their cleaning expertise.

Their commitment to excellence ensures that you receive top-notch cleaning services that meet the highest standards.

All in all, the search for a professional domestic cleaner in London should not be taken lightly. It’s best to take the time to research different types of cleaners and compare prices and services offered, so you can get the best value for your money.

And if you’re looking to save time, Wecasa Cleaning Service is a great option. Not only will it save you countless hours of research, but their experienced team of experts will match you with top-notch cleaners based on assured cost savings.

While looking for a cleaning service is often an unwelcome task, with Wecasa cleaning services you don’t need to worry anymore when it comes to finding a reliable cleaner in London.

With a vigorous growth habit, they readily naturalize via their extensive root systems and by self-sowing. The challenge is to be able to enjoy them without letting them take over your yard.

In this article, we offer food for thought with 21 tips for how to manage perennial asters in your landscape.

Here’s what’s in store:

Even though they are not labelled as an invasive species by the USDA, aggressive growers can cause headaches instead of joy – unless they are well managed.

Let’s find out how to turn unruly into manageable, right now.

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Here in the Northeast, a profusion of blue, pink, purple, and white starry perennial asters mark summer’s last and glorious hurrah before the scarlet hues of autumn herald cold days to come.

As mentioned, Symphyotrichum, especially native species, naturalize with vigor.

Returning each spring, these perennials take up more and more garden real estate each year, multiplying via a root system of thick rhizomes, and self-sowing with abandon.

They attract a host of bees, butterflies, moths, and other beneficial pollinators that are a constant presence, and a boon to all the plants in the garden.

At season’s end, the wildlife population shifts to foraging birds that are drawn to the seeds, attempting to consume them before they are dispersed on the breeze in clouds of fluffy, brown and white tufts.

As a nature lover, I welcome asters, especially native species.

Start small when choosing a variety or two to cultivate for the first time. A container or raised bed with a bottom will afford you the opportunity to enjoy the blooms without worrying about the plants taking over.

Consider a native variety to attract local pollinators and birds, and add a birdbath or bird feeder to the setting while you’re at it.

In time, you may want to expand into the garden, perhaps along that roadside perimeter.

The more you tend to your plants, the more first-hand knowledge you will gain of how they behave.

Yeah, it’s that lucrative, folks, and the giant squash-growing profession is popular around the world.

In 2020, the current world record-holder for the largest, heaviest pumpkin of all is Matthias Willemijns of Belgium, who in 2016 grew a 2,624.6-pound beast.

In 2018, Steve Geddes of New Hampshire grew a 2,528-pound monstrosity that won him a prize of $6,000. His squash currently holds the United States record for the largest pumpkin ever grown in recorded American history.

At the 2019 Alaska State Fair, I got to see a real giant pumpkin for the first time, and I must admit I was expecting something beautiful. Something like Cinderella’s magic pumpkin that turned into a carriage.

The slumped, corpulent behemoth my son and I beheld that day was anything but pretty.

But what it lacked in beauty it made up for in sheer wondrousness. I mean, how often does a person get to see a pumpkin big enough to live inside?

That day at the fair, I imagined digging a hole in the massive gourd and turning it into a wonderful autumn-themed fort for my toddler son and me.

We both could have fit inside it. Really.

My current garden isn’t large enough to handle growing a record-breaker of a squash, but that doesn’t mean I haven’t developed an interest in the profession. Or should I call it a hobby?

Maybe describing it as a sport would be more accurate. Because how in the world does one transport such a pumpkin from the field to the fairgrounds, anyway? I digress.

If you want to grow a giant pumpkin, here’s how to do it.

It won’t be long now before the world record inches closer to the 3,000-pound mark.

Despite his original gourd’s relatively small size, Dill is the grandfather of every giant pumpkin grown today: every jumbo-sized gourd grown in recent history is a cultivar or selectively bred version of the original ‘Atlantic Giant.’

When you’ve chosen your seeds, you need to prepare a dedicated spot in your garden for your gourd to grow. This full sun location should receive at least eight hours of daily sunlight.

In the fall or early spring, clear a 10 foot by 10 foot section of your yard and till the soil down to 10 inches deep. Amend it with organically-rich garden soil from your local nursery if you need to.

You will need a space that’s 10 feet in diameter – or 100 square feet – for a single plant, so if you want to try growing more than one of your seedlings into a giant, you’ll need to make a 20-foot bed.

Remember that it’s not just the size of the fruit that you need to take into consideration: you also need to consider the vines, which will quickly take over every inch of space you give them.

You may want to conduct a soil test to ensure the pH is between 6.0 and 7.5, and amend to resolve any nutrient deficiencies.

Add a six-inch layer of well-rotted manure or compost to the top of the entire bed and till it into the soil.

Then, shape the entire bed into a mound, or hill, that’s about 18 inches high in the middle.

This will help improve soil drainage. If you’re creating this bed in the fall, cover it with four inches of straw to keep it insulated and tidy during the wintertime.

Your bed is now ready to support that massive pumpkin!

Sowing Seeds

If you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 2-5, you’ll want to sow ‘Atlantic Giant’ seeds indoors two to four weeks before your area’s average last frost date.

Gardeners in Zones 6-9 can sow seeds directly into the mound at least two weeks after their area’s last frost date.

Regardless of whether you’re sowing indoors or outdoors, soak seeds in warm water for 12 hours the night before. This will help them germinate more quickly – and in a race to grow as large a pumpkin as possible, time is of the essence.

To direct sow, create a one-inch-deep hole and lay two seeds flat inside. Cover with soil, water thoroughly, and keep moist until germination. When at least two true leaves emerge, thin out the weaker seedling.

Transplanting the Seedling

If you have enough space to create a 20-foot bed, you can pick your two strongest seedlings when they have at least two to three true leaves.

If you only have space for one, after all risk of frost has passed, pick your tallest, greenest, most robust-looking seedling to transplant.

In the center of your prepared mound, dig a hole the same size as the biodegradable pot. Place the entire pot inside and backfill with soil. Make sure to cover the entire pot.

Water thoroughly. If you live in a region with fierce sunlight or high winds, you can erect a small floating row cover or shade cloth over your wee plant until it has become established.

You can remove the protection after about 10 days.

Caring for Your Giant Cucurbit

Most of the care required is covered in our guide to growing pumpkins, but I’ll go over the main considerations for giant pumpkins here.

You’ll want to give this giant baby plenty of moisture – but not too much.

Set a timer on your phone or make a note in your gardening journal to water your gourd every day if you live in a dry area, or every two to five days for those in wetter locales.

Avoid applying water directly onto the foliage or the developing gourd as this can cause it to rot.

You can check the moisture by sticking your finger into the soil next to the base of the plant’s main vine. If it feels moist about one inch down, hold off on watering until the next day.

Early the following morning, dash out to the garden.

The large, orange, smiling faces of your flowers should greet you. If there is more than one male flower on your plant, remove them both from the stem and rub all parts of each male stamen all over every single part of the female flower’s stigma.

The more pollen you can get on that stigma, the better.

Close the female flower and gently wrap some gardening twine around her so that bees or other bugs don’t come and disturb the pollen on the stigma.

Within a few days, you’ll notice that the flower has died off, but the ovary is growing.

And that’s when you know that your prize-worthy giant pumpkin has set fruit.

Learn more about how to hand-pollinate pumpkin plants in this guide.

Remove every single additional flower you see after your selected flower has been pollinated, no matter if it’s male or female.

The vine needs to be fully focused on putting all its nutrients and energy resources into that one fruit.

You’ll also want to trim any lateral vines once they reach a length of eight feet.

Your pumpkin needs those leaves for energy, so don’t chop off all the vines the moment they start growing. Bury the cut ends of the vines in the soil.

Check out this guide to learn how to trim your pumpkin vines.

Feeding Your Hungry Baby

You didn’t think I’d forgotten about the milk, did you?

Or maybe you thought I forgot, and you felt that was probably a good thing because you’re skeptical of the entire idea of a pumpkin benefiting from milk.

While scientific studies on milk-fed pumpkins are sparse, old farming lore says that giving your growing gourd a steady dose of 2 percent milk can make it grow larger than if you simply fed it with fertilizer.

Part of the reasoning seems to be that milk provides a source of calcium, which is essential to growing a giant pumpkin.

Calcium strengthens the pumpkin’s cell walls and helps to prevent the rind from developing deep cracks, which can cause the fruit to rot.

So how do you do it?

There are two ways to milk-feed a pumpkin. You can either water the plant with milk every day, instead of plain water, or…

Well, you can perform surgery on the vine by slicing it with a knife, inserting a candle wick into the cut, and sticking the other end of the wick into a Mason jar full of milk.

But let me tell you a secret: professional giant pumpkin growers do not water their gourds with milk, and they definitely don’t cut the vine and feed it milk with a jerry-rigged homespun capillary system involving a wick and a Mason jar.

The vine is the umbilical cord of the fruit, and cutting it makes it susceptible to pests and disease.

So don’t do it. Just don’t.

When the pumpkin reaches about 36 inches in diameter, it’s time to shade it with a shade cloth or row cover.

Too much sun can cause the skin to split and crack, which can cause your hard-earned fruit to rot.

After about 120-140 days, you’ll have a whopper on your hands. Just in time for your local fair! See if there’s a pumpkin growing competition you can enter your giant gourd into.

Whether there’s prize money in it or not, you’re sure to make friends who adore the same wacky gardening passion you do.

And don’t forget to make a fort with the beast once you bring it back home.

Plus, saving your own is economical as well as convenient.

With your own private reserve, there’s no more shelling out top dollar for organic stock, or anxiously waiting for those packets to arrive in the late winter mail.

Now, let’s get into the four methods to save your own tomato seed for planting.

Heirlooms and Hybrids

Before we delve into the mechanics of seed saving, it is important to note that only those collected from open-pollinated or heirloom varieties will produce true to the parent plant.

Pips collected from hybrid plants can be sterile.

And those seeds saved from hybrid varieties that do grow typically do not have the same characteristics as the parent plant – disease resistance, fruit size, vigor, and quantity of fruit can all be different.

To ensure your plants reproduce true to stock, only save seeds from open-pollinated cultivars.

Learn more about heirloom tomatoes in this guide.

Tomato Seed Basics

Collecting tomato pips is easy. Just slice the fruit in half and scoop out the gel into a small container.

But there are a few more steps you need to follow to ensure your stock is viable for propagation.

Choose fully ripe – or even over-ripe – fruit, and harvest the best-looking tomatoes from healthy, vigorous plants. Avoid fruits that are cracked or damaged, as split skins can provide an entry point for bacteria.

Choosing the most appealing fruit from the most robust plants promotes the same qualities in future generations.

You can prevent inadvertent cross-pollination by choosing fruits from plants that are grown away from other varieties, or by hand-pollinating your tomatoes.

The pips are suspended in a gel sac within the fleshy fruit. The mucilage gel inhibits germination, so removing them from the gel sac is a prerequisite for effective germination to take place.

A second reason to remove the gel is because it can provide a welcome environment for seed- and soil-borne pathogens.

Pips can be saved from all types of open-pollinated tomato plants – cherry, paste, and slicers from both determinate and indeterminate varieties.

Four Methods for Saving Tomato Seeds

There are four methods for saving your own tomato seeds for planting.

In the first method, you bury fresh seed at the end of the growing season for germination the following spring. The next three are ways to process collected seed for storage.

1. Burial

If you compost your tomato plants, you’ll know how readily volunteers sprout, popping up in your compost pile after a winter’s dormancy.

Planned burial is an easy way to take advantage of natural cycles to propagate your favorite Solanum plants.

Left on their own, fruits fall from the plant at the end of the growing season, decompose, and eventually rot away.

As the fruit rots, it activates a natural fermentation process that destroys the gel sac. The pips then remain dormant in the soil over the winter months, ready to sprout the following spring when the right conditions arrive.

This method requires some advance planning, as you’ll need to prepare next year’s tomato patch before burying the seed.

In late summer, choose your planting location and amend the soil as described in our guide to growing tomatoes.

Slice a healthy fruit into large discs, then “plant” them two inches deep in the soil. Add a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch over the top.

In spring, after the soil and air temperatures have warmed and the risk of frost has passed, remove the mulch and gently loosen the surface of the soil.

If germination is successful, seedlings will appear promptly in warm weather. These can be left in place and thinned, or transplanted to another location.

This is the least controlled method, and you must wait for good weather, but it can still be a reliable way to produce a good supply of plants each year.

2. Drying Fresh Seed

Many gardeners have success simply by allowing the pips to air dry, gel and all.

However, those that have not been fermented typically have a lower germination rate, and a shorter shelf life of just one to two years under ideal storage conditions.

But for gardeners who only want enough product to start next year’s crop, this may be perfectly fine.

Slice a tomato in half and squeeze out the gel into a fine sieve. Rub the seeds lightly while rinsing under cold water to remove excess debris.

Flip the sieve and tap the pips onto a paper towel, spreading them out to separate them.

Label the towel with the harvest date and variety name.

Allow them to dry for seven to 14 days in a location with a temperature of about 70°F, away from bright light.

When they are dry, the pips will be stuck to the towel, which can be folded up for winter storage.

3. Rubbing

Rubbing the gel sac on a lightly abrasive surface, such as a fine sieve or paper towel, is an easy way to remove the gel from small quantities of stock – and it produces a high germination rate.

Slice the fruit in half and squeeze the gel into a fine sieve. Rinse under cool water to remove any debris.

Rub each pip individually in the sieve or on a paper towel to remove the gel sac.

Rinse again, then spread them out on a clean paper towel or screen to dry.

Allow to dry for seven to 14 days in a well-ventilated location out of bright light.

This is a bit tedious, but it works fine if you’re only collecting a few dozen seeds. For larger quantities, fermentation is a more efficient method.

4. Fermentation

The fermentation process is an easy and effective way to clean your stock in which the collected gel, juice, and seeds are allowed to ferment for one to three days.

This is the most effective way to process large quantities and produces the cleanest stock.

Old school methods had fermentation going on for several days, allowing an aromatic head of scum to form before straining and drying.

However, more recent studies have found that longer fermentation times – of more than three days – have a negative impact on viability in terms of germination rate and the potential development of abnormal seedlings.

For this method, use the fruit of only one cultivar at a time to avoid mixing up your stock. And sanitize equipment thoroughly between batches to eliminate the spread of pathogens.

To ferment your seeds, rinse your tomatoes in cool water – discard any that are damaged, cracked, or show signs of disease.

Cut open the ripe fruit and squeeze the gel, juice, pulp, and pips into a glass jar or container with a well-fitting lid.

A citrus reamer can help to quickly extract all components.

Do not add water to the slurry because dilution will slow the fermentation process.

Label the jar with the date and variety name and set it in a room-temperature location (approximately 70°F), out of bright light.

For the next two days, stir the fermenting slurry once or twice a day, turning and submerging the pulp to prevent the buildup of mold.

Decant and rinse after three days. To do this, pour the slurry into a larger container and add three times the volume of water.

Swish the mixture a few times, then allow it to settle. The viable pips will drop to the bottom of the container.

Pour off the water, leaving the viable pips on the bottom. Repeat this process two or three times until all the gel and debris has been removed.

Pour the pips into a fine mesh sieve and rinse away any remaining gel or pulp with cold water.

Gently tap the strainer to remove excess water, then flip the strainer over onto a paper towel or screen and tap to dislodge the seeds.

Spread out the pips to separate them, and label the screen or paper towel with the harvest date and variety name.

Allow your collection to dry at room temperature in a well-ventilated location for seven to 14 days, stirring occasionally with your fingers to prevent clumping.

Storage

Store clean, dry pips in a paper envelope and place in a cool, dark, and dry location for the winter.

Be sure to label each envelope with the harvest day and variety name.

Tomato pips can be refrigerated, but this isn’t necessary. And they should not be frozen.

Stored properly, your rubbed or fermented seed stock will remain viable for four to six years.

I SAW A VIDEO REEL on social media the other day of a harvest of shallots, and it made me realize that I haven’t grown those delicious little Allium bulbs in forever, and who knows why?

The harvest video was on Hudson Valley Seed’s Instagram account, and one of that New York-based organic seed company’s co-founders, K Greene, talked with me about growing shallots and their more commonly grown cousin, garlic. He also shared some other ideas for succession sowing of edibles whose planting time still lies ahead—whether for fall harvest or to over-winter and enjoying in the year ahead.

Read along as you listen to the Aug. 7, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

growing shallots and more, with k greene

 

 

Margaret Roach: Hi, K. How is this wild weather here treating all of you at the seed farm?

K Greene: I can’t believe you wanted to open talking about the weather.

Margaret: Oh, he’s laughing.

K: Thought we were going to keep this positive today. No, we’re good. It’s just been wet, wet, wet, wet, wet. And so, that’s been a challenge, but… Something every year.

Margaret: Exactly. The new normal. I saw that reel on Instagram, that video, and it was you had this special device, this machine, that was harvesting the shallots. And by the way, I don’t even know if we say SHALL-lots or sha-LOTS [laughter].

K: Yeah. Depends on how fancy I’m feeling. Sometimes we say shallot, but then when we have everything harvested and laying out on tables, drying in the high tunnel, I like to say it’s the shallot chalet [below].

Margaret: Oh, cute.

K: You walk in there and it’s just pungent. You can really smell part of what makes shallots so special in terms of both their aroma and their flavor. But, yeah, we have that special tool partly because our values and ethics as a seed company are about producing as much as we can ourselves in our region. And with shallots, which of course is different than seed production is, we need to grow the actual shallot and harvest it and dry it. People are planting it, almost like planting a clove of garlic.

Margaret: Right. Right. It’s a little bit different from a seed, although it’s a sort of [laughter]... We use it as, like they say, seed garlic or seed shallots or whatever.

K: Right.

Margaret: And you have a couple of different kinds, do you?

K: Yeah, and there’s some differences. I think they’re all really easy, I would say. It’s part of what makes this time of year so exciting is to say to yourself, “What can I plant now? I did all this work and the beds are prepped, and I did all this advanced work and I got some things out of my bed. So what can I do now?”

The two varieties that we have this year are the ‘Dutch Red’ [below] and the French grey [top of page], and they’re both delicious. They both really bring that special somewhere between a sweet onion and garlic flavor, but it’s its own special flavor.

They’re planted the same, in terms of planting it like you plant a clove of garlic, a couple inches deep, good amount of compost, like 8-inch spacing, 18-inch row spacing, really similar, and that they’re going to stay in the ground for the winter. And then, they’re going to produce and be harvested the next year.

Margaret: I think in one of the descriptions on your website, you talked about this sort of umami flavor of one or whatever. So, not exactly the same, but there is a sweetness to them?

K: Yeah, they’re sweeter. They’re more like a sweet onion, but they have that garlic flavor. But you’re always looking for familiar words to describe flavors, when it’s its own flavor.

Margaret: Right.

K: To me, when I think about it, sometimes I think about white wine a little bit [laughter].

Margaret: Oh!

K: I’m not sure. There’s just something indescribable about it, which is why they’re sort of gourmet sought after and why they’re really expensive to buy in the grocery store. Actually, it’s one of the things that’s a lot more affordable to grow yourself than it is to purchase.

Margaret: Indeed. Now, because you went and mentioned the word rain. Of course, if you hear a sound, it’s the rain that’s just started pouring down here again for the 2000th time in the last 15 days.

K: Again? That means it’s on the way here.

Margaret: Yeah, I’ll send it over in a minute.

K: Thanks.

Margaret: But I haven’t grown shallots in a long time, and the last ones I grew were what were given to me, seed was given to me, I think it came from England, from Thompson and Morgan at that time, and this was many years ago. They were called banana shallots, and they were bigger than the average shallot.

Again, I grew them from seed like I would grow onions from seed, and it was kind of fun. They were, I think, a cross between an actual shallot and an onion, I think the breeding. And the taxonomy of all the alliums confuses the heck out of me. I don’t ever see it really explained. I see, even the two that you have, one is in one species of Allium, in the same species is onion, and one is in another species and so forth.

K: Right.

Margaret: You have that grey traditional shallot, yes?

K: Yeah. The taxonomy is things keep changing [laughter]. And so, we think of taxonomy as this thing set in stone, and it really isn’t. I think the only important thing to really think of is it’s an Allium, and that’s enough for most people. We don’t have to overthink too much, but they are a little bit different. The main differences between the French grey and the ‘Dutch Red,’ the French grey is what’s kind of referred to as a true shallot. It’s interesting, you can’t grow the French grey from seed. I mean, you could grow something from seeds from French grey, but the only way to get it to grow true is to plant, basically, a clove.

Margaret: Oh. It’s like you have to have a clone, a division. O.K.

K: The ‘Dutch Red’ you can do either way, but we still recommend just doing the clove. It’s just so much easier for folks, especially this time of year. But some of the differences, because there’s so many similarities in terms of depth and planting space and time: time-wise there’s a little bit of a difference, which is ‘Dutch Red’ stores a lot longer in your kitchen than the French grey. That also means that the Dutch Red, if you wanted to hang onto it and plant it a month before your last frost date, like early, early, early, early spring, you could still get a harvest from those, even though we still recommend planting it in this window of October for our region.

Whereas, the French grey doesn’t store as long, and so you really have to plant it when you get it. For us, that means people are ordering now. We ship in October so that people get them when it’s time to plant them and don’t have to worry about storing them at home.

I would say French grey, only fall planted. The Dutch Red, better fall planted, but can be done in the spring. And I would say, for most people, they’re doing both.

Margaret: Oh, interesting. They’re trying a little of both. The French grey, I’ve read about it in other places and, again, it’s the one that’s called the true shallot. I’ve read that it has kind of a harder…not a shell, but a harder skin a little bit. Is it a little bit different in texture on the outside?

K: Yeah. Yeah. It almost feels like a shell.

Margaret: Yeah, that’s what I’ve read and I’ve never had it. I mean, I’ve never had it in my garden, so I’ve never seen it raw, unprepared.

K: It’s beautiful, too. The skin almost has this copper sheen to it. They’re so pretty. And then, when you break it open, it has this pink, white, purple-y kind of ombre hue from the tip to the base. They’re really, really elegant.

Margaret: Again, the red one is in, I believe, Allium cepa, the same genus and species as onion, but I think this one has, and the names are just impossible, oschaninii, Allium oschaninii, something like that.

K: Yeah [laughter]. Oschaninii.

Margaret: Yeah, whatever. If that’s even the way to pronounce it but who cares? It’s a French heirloom, I think, as well. It’s a very traditional beloved crop.

K: It is. Sometimes you’ll hear it called Griselle.

Margaret: Griselle. Right, right, right. Of course. You gave us the quick version of fall planting: We have a bed that had something else in it; we pulled our tomatoes and we cleaned up the bed a little bit, and our shallots could go there the way that our garlic could go there. Yes?

K: Yep, exactly. I would always say add compost. Whatever’s been in there has used up a lot of nutrients. Whether we’re talking about the shallots or garlic, they want good, rich soil. So definitely add compost.

The other things that they really like, they love water. They like good drainage and they like water, you know, that thing? [Laughter.] If you happen to be somewhere where you’re not underwater for the whole season, you do want to keep them watered in the beginning. Once it’s winter, as long as there’s snow and precipitation happening, you don’t really have to worry about it.

Margaret: What’s the yield like? How much do I plant? If I’m a person ordering shallots, how much do I plant and how much does it turn into? Because that’s always the thing with garlic [above] is each clove theoretically has the capability of becoming a head, a whole cluster so to speak. And so, what’s the yield like in these different shallots?

K: It’s similar to garlic in that way. It’s different when you’re planting onions because one seed is one onion bulb or one onion set is one onion. Whereas, with the shallots, when you plant one clove, it’s going to multiply. So we sell it in half-pound, pound, and then it goes up from there. But for a pound of sets, basically, you’re looking at 40 to 50 cloves in a pound.

Margaret: Oh, O.K.

K: From there, you can do the math.

Margaret: I see.

K: Your yield is going to be six to 10 times what you planted.

Margaret: Oh, all right. All right. And so, the grey doesn’t store so well, the red stores better, so that’s one that is going to be a good keeper, and I probably would use the grey first if I was-

K: Yeah. It’s still a good keeper. It’s just not going to last you until the next planting season. Whereas with the ‘Dutch Red,’ and probably I shouldn’t say this out loud, but with the ‘Dutch Red,’ you really could hang onto it, harvest it, and just keep replanting it. Save some to plant the next season and some to eat, once you get it going.

But the yield is one of the really exciting things about it. The way to wrap your head around it is that that one clove is going to turn into six or even 10 or 12 cloves. It’s going to grow and split, so there’s going to be a cluster. And you’ll be able to really see it because it’ll be all these leaves, multiple leaves coming up.

Margaret: Yes, and that was what was fun in that video, your harvest video. You were using this mechanized tool to turn up the strip of soil that had all the shallots in it. What was happening is that, at each place where a clove had been inserted, was a cluster of fading foliage, but underneath a whole cluster of bulbs. It was just fun to see the multiplication that had happened underground in this way.

K: I often talk about seeds as something, or plants, as being generous and sort of exponentially generous. Usually, I’m talking about seeds. You plant one seed that makes a tomato plant. Think about how many seeds are in all the tomatoes from your tomato plant. It’s more than anyone could ever keep for themselves and plant. And so, we wind up sharing seeds. We’re kind of sowing it forward when we’re part of the full life cycle.

But garlic and shallots are like that, too. It’s an incredibly generous plant.

Margaret: The only other thing I didn’t ask you about is once we do harvest the next July or whenever, I guess sort of like garlic, we do cure them in a dry place, airy place, but out of the sun, correct? We want to cure them, yeah?

K: Yeah. The process, and you can see it at a larger scale for what we do, but this is for home scale as well: You want to leave the leaves until they start to die back. You want to cut the scapes the same way that you do for garlic so that it’s putting more energy into the bulb.

You can eat the scapes; different flavor than garlic scapes [above, at Margaret’s]. I think it’s really good in a pesto with a few other things in it. Cut the scapes, but don’t cut the leaves. They’re going to signal you, “O.K., the leaves are done putting their energy into the bulb.” They’re starting to die back. But you don’t want to cut the leaves when you harvest them. You want to keep the whole thing intact. All the cloves that are attached to each other with the dying leaves. Like you said, you want to put that somewhere with good airflow, but not in direct sun, to cure.

The leaves will get kind of brittle, and then you’ll see the skin on the bulbs kind of color up. When those leaves are totally dry, then you can cut the leaves above the tip of the clove. You don’t want to cut into the bulb itself. And then, you can bring them into the kitchen after that.

Margaret: Right. So transitioning: It is very similar, as you said when you were describing depth and spacing and so forth, very similar to garlic. Even the curing sounds very similar. The signal, learning this slightly different signal of at what stage to harvest, depending on what kind you’re growing, whether it’s the shallots or which type of garlic and so forth, and when the scape is going to come (which, with hard neck garlic, which is why I like it, you get a scape, too). And kind of learning the exact timing and everything of the one you choose to grow is always interesting.

I’ve grown garlic for decades and decades, and I lost my garlic for the first time. I lost all of it this year to the white mold of-

K: Oh!

Margaret: Yeah. Which is this horrendous, it’s the really most deadly horrible fungal pathogen of all alliums, potentially, but mostly affects garlic and onions. For a number of years, it has been in our region, in New York State and in New England and so forth, and it’s a worldwide thing. I don’t know. I did buy, not from you [laughter], I did buy seed garlic recently. And so, maybe I got it that way, or maybe it came in who knows how else. I have no idea. But I won’t be able to grow garlic in that area anytime in the next 40 years, and I’m not going to live that long [laughter], so that’s the end of that.

But it sounds very much like growing garlic. Any other tips or ahas that are very different about garlic that you want to share with people? Because I know a lot of people are probably going to be planting garlic this fall, and they’re probably ordering now. I love the hard neck stuff because you get that extra harvest with the scapes.

K: Yeah. I mean, I love garlic. Again, I like to grow a little of everything for the kitchen. Our variety pack actually is our most popular.

Margaret: Oh, that’s a good idea. That’s-

K: There will be different varieties but, yeah, there’s the variety pack that people love. They’re really not that different. One thing I’ve learned, though, from folks who are colder than us is that they mulch more in terms of their garlic and shallots than we do here. I don’t really think about mulching that much, and our winters have gotten more mild in terms of temperature, not in terms of other things [laughter]. I do know that some folks who are colder find that they’re successful getting them through the winter by mulching.

Margaret: Depending on your zone and so forth. It’s a great thing to grow, and there’s so much else. I just want to remind ourselves, because at this time in the seed company, do people check in for a packet of this and that because they realize they don’t have enough to do a succession of something? I mean, obviously, spring is probably the biggest seed-ordering time, but I bet you see some repeats now, at this time of year.

K: Oh yeah. This is such an exciting moment to feel like your hard work for everything you did to get yourself set up, and then you’ve been eating and enjoying your harvest, that this is the second spring now.

Margaret: What are people after around now? What do you hear? I would imagine salads and other greens would be one thing that people are always after, because you can do so many successions of those. But what kinds of other things are people after?

K: Yeah. In terms of seed, it’s like you said, a lot of mixed greens. Arugula [below], spinach, all the mustards. Radishes; great time to throw in another round of radishes. [Above, China Rose winter radish.]

Just to be able to continue to have that fresh eating, that brightness, on your plate at home and that joy of going out,. But it’s things that are quicker. Also, because the day length is getting shorter and shorter, which means that the days to harvest are getting longer for things. And so, that’s why we focus on these quick sow-and-harvest, something like arugula which is going to be really fast.

Whereas, even right now for us, we’re just outside of the window of doing a second round of peas. But we could have done peas in the last month and gotten a harvest but now, because of the number of hours of daylight, we just wouldn’t get to the point. But pea shoots, you can sow lots of peas and for a quick harvest, I mean, if you want that flavor, you can still put in peas and do pea shoots.

Margaret: Well, you were one of the first places that I ever knew about, Hudson Valley Seed was, that had organic field peas, the kind of peas that you could use for cover crop. In other words, a bag that was big enough, not a little tiny packet of peas, which would barely give me enough for a couple of salads if I was using them as shoots [laughter]. You had them in these bags but yet they were organic. I don’t know if you still do that but.

K: Oh yeah. Austrian winter pea. The flavor of the Austrian peas. It’s great for your soil. Speaking of things to put in now, cover crops. I like to say you can garden naked, but don’t leave your soil bare [laughter]. It’s just one of these things where it’s you put in the work, now take care of it.

Even if you don’t want to get a harvest out of it, whether you’re putting in an oats and peas mix or the Austrian winter peas or buckwheat, or you’re thinking something that you want to over-winter, like winter rye. What we’ve put together is the amounts of those types of cover crops that people who have a home-garden scale need, rather than what we used to see, which is just 50-pound bags, which is great for small farms or medium-sized farms, but not so great for home gardens. Our cover crops are very popular right now, and come in different amounts.

Margaret: Well, and again, with the peas, the great thing is that you can… It’s much bigger than a single little packet of pea seeds that you’d use at another time, and so you can almost broadcast them. I don’t mean-

K: Oh, yeah.

Margaret: And then, let it grow as shoots, and it’s quick and what an incredible flavor and texture to make a salad.

K: I love them.

Margaret: I mean, they’re just so delicious. I know people who stir-fry them. I know people who just use them raw, again, as a salad material, and they’re fantastic and they’re gorgeous looking. And then, you can do another one. I think you can even get multiple cuttings off them, I suspect.

K: Absolutely. Cut-and-come-again peas.

Margaret: Right. A little bit south of here… There’s still time for peas and farther south absolutely.

K: Right.

Margaret: Because this is ideal time because it’s going to be cooler than bumping up into the heat of summer farther south. But, I mean, like you said, there’s that “fall factor” as some places call it, the almost two weeks’ difference, up to two weeks’ difference that it can take for something to mature with the shorter day length and so forth, the less intense sun.

The other good thing, I think, besides the sort of salad-y greens, even something like kale. Baby kale is really delicious and super-expensive at the organic produce section. A bag of baby kale is umpteen dollars a pound, but you can grow that. Even if you’re not going to grow it all the way through, which you could if you covered it, if you took care of it over the winter, but you could even just harvest baby greens that way.

K: Oh, absolutely. Some of the mixes, like our braising greens mix or our ultimate salad bowl mix, mesclun mix, those are great to do right now because you’re going to get a diversity of flavor and texture and color. You can sow them really dense, and then just, like you said, as a baby mix, cut them. You could probably do two or three rounds of that still.

Margaret: Right. Still even in the north where we are. The last minute, just give us a reminder as an expert seed person, we should not store our leftover seed in the pocket of our gardening jacket or out in the garage [laughter]. Correct?

K: We get this a lot, Margaret.

Margaret: I know.

K: It’s cool, dark and dry.

Margaret: O.K.

K: And so, if it freezes, you don’t want it there. There’s very few seeds that you actually want to freeze. You don’t want them to freeze. You don’t want them to have a lot of humidity and moisture, and you don’t want them exposed to sunlight and heat, because those are all the things that the seed is looking for to be like, “Hey, it’s time to grow.” We’re just saying let’s not give them those cues just yet.

Margaret: Cool, dark, dry. O.K. All right. Thank you. Well, I’m so glad to reconnect on the podcast, K Greene from Hudson Valley Seed, and thank you. I’m excited about the shallots. Fun ahead, I think, and thanks for making the time. Thanks for coming in from the field [laughter] to make the time. I’ll talk to you soon, I hope.

K: Always happy to. Thanks so much, Margaret.

(All photos from Hudson Valley Seed except as noted.)

prefer the podcast version of the show?

MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Aug. 7, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

Instead of fitting plants into beds and borders, this article focuses on naturalizing flowering bulbs to create ever-increasing expanses of seasonal color in the home landscape.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Ready? Get your garden planner out, because we’re about to begin!

One of my gardening friends likes to tuck flowers in unexpected places as surprises for visitors who enjoy the wooded paths in her outdoor living space.

A clump of bright red tulips greets walkers as they round a tree-lined bend.

You can divide bulbs in early spring as needed to keep a small patch with great surprise appeal or allow a random planting to grow into a substantial drift.

Sowing bulbs helps to keep soil from washing away because as they multiply, the roots take a firm hold of the ground.

Wet areas, like stream beds, are suitable for growing moisture-loving species like dwarf woodland irises and can turn a bare muddy place into one of flowering beauty.

In addition, some people sow bulbs among their fruit trees to attract early pollinators and support biodiversity. 

Tips for Sowing

Wherever you choose to sow spring bulbs, the time to do so is in early fall.

Prepare the soil by working it to a depth of 12 inches until it has a crumbly consistency. Remove all rocks and debris.

Consider characteristics like:

• Bloom time
• Color
• Cultural Requirements
• Form
• Height

Flowers that bloom at different times prolong the spring growing season for maximum visual interest.

As for color, you can display a single color scheme, opposites like orange fritillaries and blue woodland irises, or a mixed batch of red tulips, yellow daffodils, and violet grape hyacinths.

Your chosen varieties should have the same light, moisture, and soil needs. You’ll find this information in our growing guides and on plant tags and labels.

If you must do some tidying up, it’s okay to clip off spent flower stems.

On the one hand, you’ll redirect energy to the bulb, but note that on the other hand, you’ll prevent seed setting and dispersal. And while it takes years for seeds to turn into viable bulbs, they contribute to the overall naturalization process.

If the unsightly greens disturb your sense of beauty, you can interplant sun-loving bulbs in wildflower gardens and meadows full of summer-blooming plants.

You can pair shade-lovers with other early shade plants, like leafy hellebores and lungworts.

Interplanting helps to camouflage the fading spring foliage.

Keep this in mind if you plant crocuses in your lawn. If you mow the foliage down before it withers, the blossoms may not return. If you select an early-blooming species, like the snow crocus, Crocus chrysanthus, it will likely wither before or as lawn care begins.

Printing cards using garden leaves and flowers is a simple and personal way to send a sentiment to someone special. Make hammered flowers within minutes, creating beautiful prints straight from your garden for the people in your life you want to give some flowerful cheer!

I love to send a little bit of my garden when sending a thank-you note. It’s not always practical for flowers or preserves to be sent across the country or even to a different country, but a flower print will do!

Flowers are arguably the most beautiful, natural thing to ever exist It’s easy to replicate the flowers from your garden by gently making hammered flowers on cardstock.

Within just a few minutes, you can have a print that looks like watercolour—only it uses natural dyes from the flowers! This is a simple flower craft that anyone can do at home that will look artisan made.

This post will cover…

How to Make Hammered Flower Cards

What I love most about this project is just how different each print can look based on what you grow, what’s in season, and which flowers you feel like picking!

Materials

Make It!

Start with some plain card stock. I like to use plain white to see all of the colour detail in the flower print, but you can experiment with different colours as backgrounds for the print.

Pick a flower from the garden. I like pansies or violas to make a flower print because the size works well for cards, and the colours transfer really nicely.

You can certainly play with the various shapes, sizes, and colours of your garden flowers, keeping in mind that larger petals, such as those from roses or poppies, will need a lot of even hammering to transfer the whole petal.

Leaves will work as well. Red maple leaves and fern leaves are very easy to print and transfer the pigment well and hold their shape. Test a few different leaves from your garden and see what you like best.

Use a hard surface like a piece of plywood as your work table. You don’t want to dent up a counter or nice table with this project, so choose a surface on which you won’t mind a few hammer marks.

Position the flower on the card where you want the print, with the top facing down. Each pansy has five petals. I separate them and place three on the card. The leftover petals can be printed on a separate card or added to this design. I like the look of just three petals for a large pansy, though.

Place the parchment or craft paper over the petals and hold them in place under the paper.

Hammer the flower, covering the entire surface area. Be careful not to slide the petals around, but also be mindful of your fingers!

I used a mallet for this project because it is heavy and has a smooth head to print the flower evenly. I didn’t use my hammer because it has a stippled head, but you can see the effect that gives here.

Carefully remove the paper and peel off the petals. Brush away any leftover plant materials. Cut the card stock to size and attach it to a blank card.

These would make fitting cards for your home stash or thank-you cards for weddings and showers. A set of these flower print cards (six maybe?) would also make a great gift.

Read more on flower pounding and see how to make a flower print on fabric here.

Frequently Asked Questions About Hammered Flowers

More Garden-Inspired Crafts

Many commenters have appreciated my iterative design approach to food forests, which focuses much more on growing a big ecosystem, then cutting away what you don’t like later.

You can see what I mean in this video:

From the comments:

“I am an over planner by nature and we started our food forest with diagrams and layouts. 😂HAHA we started with CAD software. (I’m a graphic designer and my husband is a draftsman) It was structured and planned out. That quickly went out the window lol. I still try to maintain organized chaos, but we are just planting stuff at this point.” -heartofedenfarmstead

“You encouraged me to get started on my food forest. I went and started on my pineapple Guava in the front yard. I removed all the grass suffocating it. Then chopped and dropped some weeds from an unkept area of my yard. I also started clearing the ground in my backyard to start throwing out a seed mix. I already have figs from cuttings in containers, Cassava from a friend, Avocado from the store, and moringa a grew from seed. I bought a ton of cover crop seeds a while back. It’s like I’ve been waiting for this video to inspire me. From one David to another. Thx.” -TioDave

“This is a liberating point of view. I think that very thing has kept me from growing lots of things for lots of years. Nowadays it’s “Let’s just see what happens” and understanding it isn’t going to look like Charles Dowding and many others I do admire but cannot emulate. More afraid of not trying than failing these days. Youtube is great for inspiration (selected channels, anyway) but at some point you just have to go outside and do it.” -sujo0603

“Love the very basic model that could be applied to any situation. I’m a retired biologist, and I can tell that you are 100% right that nature works in a similar way. Also, I like your analogy of building islands and expanding, connecting to other islands. Hey, they may become continents 😅 You may call that “plate tectonics gardening” Leo Miranda-Castro

“David The Goods primary job on YouTube is to keep us all out of analysis paralysis lol. I want to add that the benefit of having animals makes the haphazard style all the more appealing. Animals will eat so much of what we think are garbage and an escaped goat has a smaller chance of demolishing an orchard if everything is camouflaged like this. I have started planting sunchokes near trees for just this reason.” -jcmustian

“I am my grandmothers granddaughter. She raised me up in the garden. Literally, i was crawling around while she worked then i grew to help her. I loved it. It was like what you are doing at your place. Well i thought i wanted to grow up and have a very planned garden in my front yard and my garden hidden in the back yard. All totally organized and planned, planned, planned. Well it has taken me years to come back full circle to my grandma and her way of doing things. It makes me so proud to know how wise and smart she was. She raised and fed a huge family and had a small market garden doing things her way. Thank you David and family to help me come back around.” -diannevaldez8670

“My first island garden happened because some perpetual spinach seeds somehow self-seeded in a patch of grass, and instead of pulling them out or mowing them down, I mulched around them and leaned into it being a deliberate patch. Basically said “Okay, I don’t want to waste this free food – I guess this is a garden now.” And then I built around it and planted other things. I have lots of little islands now and I’m constantly adding bits and pieces to them, filling in gaps, using edges. I planted pumpkins under my apple trees, partly to suppress the grass and partly because… why not fill unused spots with pumpkins while it’s a work in progress? I planted broad beans and flowers between the shrubs in my (very young) hedge because again, it’s a work in progress – why not use those gaps to grow food and colour in the meantime? The wire fence provides structure for the broad beans, the flowers bring in the pollinators, the flowers and broad beans give wind and sun protection to the young shrubs, along with a constant source of chop and drop mulch. Plus I get cut flowers and a big pile of broad beans instead of no broad beans. Everybody wins. I pruned my passionfruit vine one year and ended up with several wheelbarrow loads of pruned material. I composted it, but it was annoying and cumbersome, so the next year I had a brainwave and just arranged the vines around my trees as mulch. The following pruning session, I used the material to build up a new garden bed, covered it over with mulch, and then when it was time to plant into it, I created pockets of compost. I find this is a great way to build up garden beds without needing (expensive!) bulk soil. I no longer see big pruning jobs as chores but as a harvest in their own right, mulch for my larger trees or material to build my next new island garden. I’ve reframed my disdain for particular vigorous weeds in the same way – they are now “free and abundant biomass”. I almost always let volunteers do their thing, and they teach me about where they want to grow. I want to know which food plants will grow like weeds here, which can handle dry spells, which will/won’t attract pests, etc. I want to fill spaces with food that will be vigorous, resilient, low-maintenance. Bonus points for multi-use plants, natives, self-seeders, perennials. High wind tolerance. Anything that the parrots aren’t terribly interested in vandalising. Slow bolters and cut-and-come-again plants over those that I have to reliably succession plant (because I’m bad at that). I don’t really want to waste time and energy on something that will bolt and be done if there is something similar that will chug along all season. I also try to scatter the same types of plants around in different areas to see what they like best in my microclimate. Often plants will surprise me, thriving in spots that I thought they would struggle in, and vice versa. I’ve learned that where I am, I can/should plant some things earlier than recommended but other things I need to wait much later than recommended. I lean into the successes, adjust for or cull the failures, and fill in the gaps again. Each growing season is another chunk of data on who the stalwarts are going to be and who might end up in the too hard basket. I’m disappointed when things die, but every failure is a lesson and another step towards a more resilient and abundant garden overall, and I always have something waiting in the wings to fill in a gap and try again. Just get it in the ground and see if it works.” -ushiaala

Though you may increase production and get better spacing and interactions and paths, etc., etc., etc., if you plan extensively before planting, often the planning becomes an excuse not to actually get stuff growing.

It’s more important to break the analysis paralysis and just get stuff in the ground. Propagate a ton of plants, put them all over, then hack your way through them later as you need space or paths or whatever. Sure, you can have a basic plan in mind, but I’m really tired of all the endless planning and talk talk talk talk talk that leads to nothing. Stop dreaming and start doing.

Even a tightly planted space like Robert Hart’s original temperate climate food forest – which Dave Jacke says is way too choked up with trees and shrubs – grew plenty of food.

You can plant a food forest, starting right now.

(And if you’re in Florida, this book will help with inspiration.)

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Salvia yangii

Previously known as Perovskia atriplicifolia, Russian sage was recently renamed Salvia yangii, and like rosemary which was also recently reclassified, is now regarded as a member of the Salvia genus.

Added to the genus in 2017, this mint family plant looks much like lavender but smells like sage. That’s where its common name comes from! Well, the second part, at least…

Native to the steppes and hills of central and southwestern Asia, Russian sage is a flowering herbaceous perennial that grows to just three or four feet tall.

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This subshrub has a wonderful aroma and attractive appearance that make it a prime candidate for any ornamental garden in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 9.

Ready to try your hand at growing this elegant, fragrant plant? Here are the topics we will tackle in this article:

What Is Russian Sage?

Russian sage is a semi-woody flowering perennial that belongs to the mint family, Lamiaceae.

It is often used in cottage gardens, where it adds visual appeal when grown among ornamental grasses and other flowering perennials.

Several cultivars have been developed, most of which are distinguishable by their height.

And there are several related and newly reclassified species within the Salvia subgenus Perovskia, many of which share the same native range and general appearance, but offer different flower colors or other distinguishing features.

S. yangii grows up to four feet tall in an upright fashion. It has distinctive green-gray aromatic leaves and blue-purple flowers.

The fuzzy tube-shaped flowers grow in pairs on showy panicles, and the racemes that hold them are completely covered in blooms when in season, from near the base to the tip.

Silvery green leaves are arranged in opposite pairs on long stems beneath the flower stalks.

Though many gardeners love the scent of the leaves when crushed, describing it as akin to the common culinary herb sage or a combination of that and lavender, others claim it’s more off-putting, a bit like turpentine.

Pollinated flowers give way to tiny, dark brown, nut-like fruits.

Although this plant does have a long history of use in traditional medicine in its native range for treating fevers and soothing upset stomachs, among other ailments, it is more often grown today for its ornamental value.

The flowers are considered edible, with a sweet and slightly peppery flavor, or they may be used in dye making.

Researchers are also studying this plant for its potential use in phytoremediation, pulling heavy metal contaminants out of the soil.

Note that the leaves contain a potentially toxic compound and should not be eaten. Please proceed with caution when experimenting with culinary use of any plant grown in the garden that you have not consumed before.

Consulting with a trained herbalist or medical professional is recommended before ingesting this plant.

Wearing gloves when you work with this plant is also recommended, as it may cause skin irritation in some people.

Cultivation and History

Until 2017, Russian sage was known botanically as Perovskia atriplicifolia. It was reclassified as Salvia yangii to reflect its inclusion in the Salvia genus.

As a member of the mint family, this plant can spread quickly and grows well in temperate climates.

Russian naturalist Grigory Karelin named this plant in 1841, and he collected tens of thousands of specimens in his time and explored areas within this plant’s native range.

English botanist George Bentham formally described the plant in 1848, based on a specimen collected by British botanist and naturalist William Griffith in Afghanistan that has been preserved to this day in the herbarium at Kew Gardens.

Native to Central Asia, including parts of Pakistan and Afghanistan as well as Tibet – not Russia, as its common name would suggest – it was named Perovskia in honor of Vasily Perovsky, an Imperial Russian general and appointed military governor of the Russian province of Orenburg.

Atriplicifolia denotes the similarity of its foliage to saltbush, and other members of the Atriplex genus.

Since its first introduction to the UK, several notable gardeners have fallen in love with this plant and promoted its cultivation, including Irish wild and cottage gardening proponent and author William Robinson, and horticulturist and former director of the US National Arboretum John Creech.

The Royal Horticultural Society documents ‘Hybrida’ as the first hybrid cultivar, selected at Hampshire Nursery in the 1930s, and Russian sage was selected as the Perennial Plant Association’s Plant of the year in 1995.

Russian Sage Propagation

Russian sage can be started from seed, from stem cuttings, or by dividing mature plants. You can also transplant seedlings or nursery plants into the garden.

Established plants will self-sow and sometimes spread via underground rhizomes as well, under ideal conditions.

Note that unlicensed propagation of some cultivars is prohibited, depending on their patent status.

From Seed

You may sow Russian sage seed at any time of the year, as long as you opt to do it indoors.

Starting seeds at least six to eight weeks before the last predicted frost in your area is recommended, if you hope to plant them out the following season.

Begin by cold stratifying the seeds in a plastic bag stored inside the refrigerator at a temperature around 40°F for a period of 42 days. This will speed up and increase the rate of germination.

Next, fill a seed tray with moist seed starting mix.

Spread the seeds on the top of the soil, spacing them at least half an inch apart. You can thin seedlings later on if they are too crowded, which can happen if they shift around when you water.

Gently press the seeds to make sure there is good contact with the soil. Cover with a very light layer of soil or sphagnum moss.

Put a plastic cover on top of the seeds, and place the tray in an area out of direct sunlight with consistent temperatures around 60 to 65°F.

While you are waiting for seeds to germinate, lift the cover and mist them with water from a spray bottle once or twice a day, whenever the soil surface is dry to the touch.

Your seeds should germinate in around 90 days, often much more quickly. If you have not seen any signs of germination after 120 days, they may have failed to germinate. Toss them and start over if this is the case.

Once the seeds begin to sprout, you can remove the plastic cover. Move the tray to a sunny window, or position it under a grow light. Continue to water as needed.

When the seedlings are one inch tall, you can transplant them into individual 12-inch pots filled with potting soil, with some landscaping sand mixed in to promote good drainage.

Transplant into the garden in late spring or early summer. Plants grown from seed will bloom for the first time in their second year.

Cold stratified seeds can also be broadcast onto a prepared planting area outdoors, after the risk of frost has passed. Water in gently, and keep the planting area moist until seedlings sprout.

From Cuttings

This method is much quicker than starting from seed, with satisfying results and a good success rate.

Softwood or semi-hardwood cuttings are both suitable for rooting, and each gardener seems to have his or her preferred method, depending on the time of year, with reported varying levels of success.

Softwood cuttings may be taken in spring, and semi-hard cuttings can be taken in the summer.

Our best recommendation is to take cuttings at a time when you know you’ll be able to care for them, and when plants are looking their healthiest.

To propagate Russian sage from cuttings, choose a healthy, mature plant and take several cuttings that are each about four inches long, using a clean pair of pruning shears. Make your cuts just above a leaf node.

Strip off all of the leaves except for a few at the tip of each cutting. Remove any buds or flowers.

Dip the cut end of each in powdered rooting hormone if you wish. Russian sage will root without supplementary rooting hormones, but your success rate may be higher if you use it.

Place each cutting in a 12-inch well-draining container filled with moist sand or your choice of soilless medium, with the bottom of each inserted about an inch deep.

Place your cuttings in a brightly lit environment indoors in a protected area, at a temperature of around 60°F.

The cuttings should begin to produce pale white roots within a few weeks, and they will begin putting on new growth as roots become established.

Keep the soil moist in the meantime. You can plant your rooted cuttings out in the garden when they reach about a foot in height.

From Seedlings/Transplanting

Russian sage can be transplanted into the garden as soon as the risk of frost has passed.

Harden off seedlings or rooted cuttings before planting. You can do this by bringing them outdoors to a partially sunny and protected area for an hour on the first day, bringing them back inside, and increasing the time spent outside each following day by about an hour until they can stay out for the whole day.

Dig a hole that is roughly two and a half feet wide and about as deep as the root ball of the plant, typically about a foot deep when plants are mature enough for successful in-ground transplanting.

Carefully place the plant in the hole, taking care not to damage its fragile roots. Backfill the soil, tamping down lightly around the plant, then water deeply.

From Division

Division can be helpful if you want to control the growth of your existing Russian sage plants. It can also encourage them to bloom more vigorously. Of course, it’s also a wonderful way to get new plants growing in your garden!

You can divide your plant every three years, and it’s best to do so in the spring or fall. Divide before your plant is in active bloom, or just after flowers have finished but before plants go dormant for the winter.

You may opt to prune stems to about six to eight inches high with a pair of clean garden trimmers before dividing in the fall.

Remove the plant from the ground with a shovel, digging out wide and deeply enough to prevent causing damage to the roots. If you can’t dig the whole thing up, work in sections.

Gently remove some of the excess soil from around the roots so you can see what you’re working with, and then divide the parent into clumps with roots attached, either into thirds or in half, depending on the size of your plant.

Larger plants may need to be split into more pieces.

Separate the roots gently with your hands, and place the divisions in a shallow tray of water to keep the roots moist while you work.

Dig a hole that is as deep as the length of the roots for each of the divided sections. Add some compost to the soil to provide supplemental nutrients as needed.

Set the crown of each division at the surface of a hole. Pack dirt around the roots as you work, repeat with each division, replant the parent, and then water deeply.

How to Grow Russian Sage

Plant Russian sage in full sun and well-drained soil. The plants should be spaced 18 to 24 inches apart, depending on the cultivar and the look you are trying to achieve in your garden.

Hedge plants can be spaced more closely together.

Remember that airflow is also important. If you frequently experience wet weather where you live, you may want to provide extra space between your plants to prevent rot and improve airflow, to inhibit fungal disease and facilitate quicker drying of the foliage after rain.

This species is a good choice for growing in poor-quality soil, even those types that are somewhat rocky, sandy, chalky, or alkaline, as long as they are moderately moist to dry.

In fact, S. yangii prefers a pH above 7.0 and will not tolerate soils that are extremely acidic. It can tolerate salty seaside conditions as well.

Water deeply and often during the first growing season. This will help the plants develop strong root systems as they become established.

Let the soil dry out between waterings, providing at least an inch of supplementary water per week if rainfall is minimal.

In the second year and beyond, Russian sage plants are much more drought tolerant. Provide supplementary irrigation during prolonged periods of hot weather or severe drought.

After plants become established, they will be relatively hardy with few pest or disease problems.

You may want to stake them, as certain varieties tend to flop over as the season progresses, especially when they are young or if they are growing in partial shade.

This is not necessary for the health of the plant, but can help to neaten up the appearance of these plants in your garden.

Fertilize once per year, ideally before new growth appears in the spring. Just apply a light top dressing of compost or a balanced fertilizer.

Mulch can be used to help protect your plants in the winter, and to help moderate soil moisture levels. Though they are frost tolerant, wet winters can lead to rot.

Apply a one-inch layer of organic material like bark, keeping it away from the crown of the plant.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun.
• Grow in well-draining, alkaline soil.
• Fertilize once per year in early spring.

Pruning and Maintenance

Deadheading your plant is not necessary. However, you should prune each year in the early spring. Cut mature plants back to about 12 to 15 inches above ground level.

Be sure to clip the flower stalks before they set seed to prevent unwanted volunteers from popping up, and divide larger plants as needed.

Seeds can also be saved for later planting, but note that hybrid cultivars may not grow true to seed.

In very cold northern climates, typically that of USDA Hardiness Zones 5 and under, plants may die back completely to the ground in the winter.

You may choose to cut them back entirely to the ground and mulch lightly to protect the roots and crowns from wet winter weather in these areas. Springtime pruning is not required if this is the case.

Cultivars to Select

There are several cultivars and hybrids of Russian sage to choose from.

To avoid customer confusion, all of these will often still bear the old genus name and species on labels, Perovskia atriplicifolia, and they share the same care requirements. They differ in size, overall appearance, and bloom time.

Newer cultivars tend to be more compact, in terms of overall stature as well as flower arrangement, and more closely packed flowers serve to produce more visual impact in terms of dense color.

In addition to the species plant, the following cultivars are a few of our favorite varieties of Russian sage that you may like to grow in your garden.

Blue Spritzer

Also known as ‘Balperobritz,’ this cultivar has pale lavender-blue flowers with light purple calyces. Widely spaced out over the racemes, they have an airy and light appearance.

Blooming from summer into fall, Blue Spritzer™ reaches a modest height of two to three feet, with a mature spread of about four feet.

The silvery-green leaves have a rounded shape, and this variety has a bushy, vase-shaped habit.

Blue Steel

Producing lots of dark lavender-blue flowers and purple calyces, ‘Blue Steel’ is sure to make an impact in the garden. Its leaves are rounded and shallowly serrated with wavy margins, and it has a bushy habit.

‘Blue Steel’

This variety is said to have a more citrusy scent than others. Plants can be expected to reach a mature height of two to three feet with a similar spread, and flowers bloom from early summer through early fall.

Seeds are available from True Leaf Market.

Denim ‘n’ Lace

Named for the blue hue of its flowers and the fern-like appearance of its foliage, this newer cultivar has densely clustered blooms for maximum colorful impact.

‘Denim ‘n’ Lace’

Reaching a mature height of nearly three feet with a spread of just under four feet, this mid-sized variety blooms from mid-July to mid-October.

Plants are available from Burpee.

Filigran

‘Filigran’ is said not to be as well-acclimated to colder growing zones as some of the other cultivars on this list, preferring the climate of USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9.

With a cultivar name that is the German word for filigree, it has lacy, feathery, fern-like foliage.

‘Filigran’ blooms from early summer through mid-fall with lavender-blue flowers surrounded by purple calyces.

It has a more upright growth habit than other cultivars as well, reaching a height of three to four feet – or more – with a mature spread of up to eight feet.

Little Spire

‘Little Spire’ also prefers warmer growing conditions, thriving in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9.

With showy purple-blue flowers that bloom in summer and early fall, it is a compact variety that grows to just one or two feet tall at most.

‘Little Spire’

Plants are available in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

Longin

A classic, older cultivar, ‘Longin’ is similar in appearance to ‘Little Spire’ but has slightly larger, stiffer leaves and a more erect habit. It has a long bloom time, too, typically bearing flowers from mid-July until mid-October.

Rounded leaves with slightly serrated edges, and light lavender-blue flowers surrounded by purple calyxes, are noteworthy traits of this plant.

Expect ‘Longin’ to reach a height of about four feet at maturity, with a similar spread.

Superba

This cultivar is another older and well-known type with lavender-blue flowers, purple calyces, and ovate, slightly fern-like leaves.

It blooms earlier than some other types and continues putting on a floral show through early October.

Larger than other varieties, ‘Superba’ maxes out at over four feet with a spread of up to five feet. Thanks to its tall and loose habit, plants may require staking.

Managing Pests and Disease

This plant is one of the best to grow if you are looking for an easy-care option. Most pests and disease pathogens leave it alone.

Herbivores

Russian sage is typically left untouched by both deer and rabbits, as well as other types of grazing animals.

Insects

Aphids, leafhoppers, spider mites, and whiteflies may occasionally feed on Russian sage, and slugs may occasionally pop up as well, in overly moist conditions.

However, they rarely cause significant injury and are therefore not commonly listed as problematic pests. In fact, its scent and tough foliage serve to repel some common insects.

Disease

Again, this is a robust perennial that is prone to very few diseases. Leaf spot, stem canker, and stem blight may occasionally come to call, though they are rare.

Root rot is the only concern worth noting in detail, and fortunately, it is easy to prevent.

What do all of these diseases have in common? They’re all caused by fungal pathogens!

In terms of obvious symptoms, root rot generally manifests in the form of black leaves. This is a clear sign that your plants are receiving too much water or that your soil is not draining properly.

To prevent root rot, and all forms of fungal disease, limit unnecessary watering. Always water at the base of plants rather than on the foliage.

Stake plants if the stems and leaves are falling over. This helps to increase air circulation and dry out the area.

You may remove the dead leaves or allow them to fall off the plant on their own. Be sure to keep the garden clear of fallen debris.

Digging up plants and removing sections of damaged or dead roots may help to revive them. Pull and toss any plants that have succumbed to rot.

Consider replanting in a more suitable location, with adequate sunlight, plenty of space, and good drainage, or do what you can to improve drainage and airflow in your selected planting area.

In the future, do not plant in shady environments or soils that are poorly draining.

Best Uses

Russian sage is best grown as a perennial ornamental in your cottage garden.

It looks wonderful when planted with tall ornamental grasses such as maiden grass (Miscanthus spp.) or with other perennials such as coneflowers (Echinacea spp.).

You may also consider growing it as a border or foundation plant, or as a short hedge of sorts, along walkways, or in a gravel garden.

Pollinators love the blooms, which serve to attract hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.

Because the leaves and flowers of this plant are aromatic, you may also choose to cut sections to bring indoors and enjoy in a vase.

The leaves can also be dried for use in potpourri, and the flowers can be cut and dried for use in everlasting arrangements as well.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Woody flowering ornamental shrub	Flower / Foliage Color:	Lavender-blue, purple/green-gray
Native to:	Asia	Tolerance:	Alkaline soil, drought, frost, rocky soil, salt
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3a-9a	Soil Type:	Loam
Bloom Time:	Spring-summer	Soil pH:	7.0+ (alkaline)
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	18-24 inches, or more depending on variety	Attracts:	Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds
Planting Depth:	Surface (seeds), 1 foot (transplants)	Companion Planting:	Coneflower, globe thistle, lavender, ornamental grass, sedum, sneezeweed
Height:	36-48 inches, depending on variety	Uses:	Borders, cottage gardens, cut or dried arrangements, gravel gardens, hedges, xeriscaping
Spread:	36-48 inches, depending on variety	Family:	Lamiaceae
Time to Maturity:	4 years	Genus:	Salvia
Water Needs:	Low	Subgenus:	Perovskia
Maintenance	Low	Species:	Yangii
Common Pests:	Aphids, leafhoppers, slugs, spider mites, whiteflies	Common Diseases:	Cylindrosporium leaf spot, Phoma stem canker, root rot, Sclerotinia stem blight

Heed Our Advice to Grow Beautiful Russian Sage

When it comes to growing ornamental shrubs, there are few plants that are quite as hardy and tough as Salvia yangii.

Once established, this plant is easy to grow and requires very little care. It is drought tolerant and offers brilliant color and fragrance to any setting in its recommended range.

Do you grow Russian sage in your garden? Let us know your favorite uses for this plant in the comments section below!

If you want to read more about growing and caring for ornamental shrubs, be sure to take a look at these articles next:

For years I purchased rosemary plants from my local nursery, under the impression that my favorite culinary herb was too difficult to start myself.

While it is true that rosemary is particularly challenging to grow from seed, it can be propagated easily from stem cuttings and by root layering.

And starting from seed is not impossible, it just takes a bit of patience and extra care.

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In our guide to growing rosemary, we cover how to cultivate this classic herb in your garden. In this guide, I’ll discuss the different ways to propagate rosemary plants.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

Why is it useful to know how to propagate rosemary?

This herbaceous perennial is hardy in Zone 8 and above. If you are lucky to live in a warm climate, you can plant it once and it will continue to grow each year, sometimes up to a massive four feet tall and wide!

The rest of us, in cooler growing zones, either have to purchase new starts each year or attempt to bring existing plants indoors over winter, which never seems to work out very well for me.

By propagating rosemary yourself, you can avoid buying new starts, and even better, you can grow many plants for little to no cost.

From Stem Cuttings

Perhaps the most common method of propagating rosemary, propagation via stem cuttings is an easy way to take one established plant and turn it into several!

Stem cuttings are a popular choice because they are more reliable and much quicker than starting from seed. Additionally, plants grown from cuttings will be identical to the parent plant, so you know exactly what you are getting.

Cuttings should be taken from an established plant in the spring time during active growth, or in early fall after flowering has finished.

Use pruners or sharp scissors to cut four- to six-inch sections back from the tips of new soft wood. Look for flexible green stems as opposed to woody brown ones.

Next, strip the leaves from the bottom two thirds of each cut stem, leaving five or six intact at the top.

Dip the cut end into powdered rooting hormone, if you have some to hand, though it’s not absolutely necessary.

Plant each cutting three to four inches deep in a two- to four-inch pot using an equal mix of potting soil and sand. If you are starting multiple cuttings, you may wish to use a tray or space three stems two inches apart in a six-inch pot.

Water well and use a humidity dome or plastic bags to create tents over the pots to retain moisture and humidity. Set in a location that receives indirect light, and open the plastic daily to water. You need to keep the potting medium evenly moist, but not saturated.

After a few weeks, you can check for rooting by pulling gently on stems. If you feel resistance, this indicates that roots are forming.

At this point you can remove the plastic and move pots to a location that receives six to eight hours a day of direct light. Continue to maintain even moisture. 

Once you begin to see new growth, this is evidence that roots are becoming established and you may transplant to a larger container or outdoors, provided all risk of frost has passed.

Before transplanting into the garden, you’ll need to harden off the new plants to acclimate them to the outside environment. Set them outside in a sheltered location for an hour on the first day, gradually increasing the length of time over the course of a week or 10 days.

Alternatively, you can set cuttings in water to root. After stripping the bottom leaves as described above, simply fill a jar or vase with room temperature water and place the stems in the jar, cut side down.

Only fill enough water to cover the bare part of the stem, leaving the foliage dry. Keep out of direct light and change the water every couple of days. New roots should form in a few weeks.

Once a stem has sprouted four to six roots of about half an inch long, transplant into two- to four-inch pots in a well draining potting mix that is equal parts potting soil and sand.

Make a hole in the soil and gently set cuttings, being careful not to damage the new roots in the process. Gently tamp the soil around the stem and water well.

Keep in indirect light until roots resist tugging, and then move to a bright location. Continue to water whenever the soil feels dry.

Once you see evidence of new growth, you can repot to larger containers or harden off and set them out in the garden after the last frost of spring has passed.

Via Layering

Another easy way to propagate rosemary is by layering. This is a method of training stems to develop new roots while still attached to the parent plant.

On an established plant, select a healthy stem that is long enough to easily reach the ground when bent.

Dig a trench two inches deep and an inch or so long in the spot where the stem reaches the ground.

Use a sharp sterile knife to strip the leaves and bark from the underside of the stem and set it in the trench, leaving two to three inches of foliage and stem intact at the tip.

Use a garden staple to pin the stem to the ground and refill the trench with soil.

Water the layered stems regularly until rootlets have formed and new growth appears at the exposed tip. You can check for new roots by digging very carefully around the buried stems. It can take up to a few months for new roots to form, so this method does take some patience!

Once plants have rooted, you can cut the stem away from the parent and carefully dig up the new plant. 

Transplant into a pot or a new location in the garden and water regularly until well established.

Starting from Seed

If you don’t have an established plant to start from or you are just up for a bit of a challenge, it is possible to start rosemary from seed. This herb is notoriously tricky to germinate, but there are a few tips for improving the outcome.

First, you’ll need to cold stratify the seeds. You can do this by wrapping the seeds in a damp paper towel. Place the towel in a sealed zip top bag in the fridge and leave it there for two to three months.

The process of growing rosemary from seed takes a while, so time this so that seeds are stratified and ready to be sown around six months before the last frost of spring.

When you are ready to sow your seeds, soak them overnight in warm water. Sprinkle seeds in flats or in two- to four-inch pots in your favorite seed starting mix. Barely cover with soil and top with a plastic lid or use a humidity dome. Germination rates are typically low, so it is a good idea to plant extra seeds.

Place out of direct light in a room that maintains a consistent temperature of around 55-65°F. If you have one, a heat mat set at 70-80°F can really help things along.

Mist lightly to keep the medium moist until germination. In the best case scenario, this should happen in two to four weeks, but it could take even longer.

As soon as seeds have sprouted, remove the plastic lid, and relocate to a location with bright light. If you are using grow lights, set pots about two inches from the light source.

Mist with a spray bottle to keep the surface of the medium moist, or ideally, set pots in a shallow tray to provide bottom water.

When they are three to four inches tall, you can transplant seedlings to individual pots or out in the garden after all risk of frost has passed.

An Abundance of Spice 

If you are like me and prefer to use rosemary in almost everything you cook, you will not regret learning to propagate your own plants.

Not only will you avoid spending money on expensive starts, but you may just wind up with more plants than you know what to do with – why not give them as gifts to family and friends?

Have you ever propagated your own rosemary plants? Share what worked for you in the comments section below!

And for more information on growing rosemary in your garden, check out these guides next: 

Today we’re visiting Carla Z. Mudry in Malvern, Pennsylvania. Carla is sharing the profusion of flowers she enjoyed in her garden in July.

July means even more flowers! And I must admit that I am loving the flowers this year, even if everything is on its own weird schedule thanks to the weather. It’s all about daylilies and coneflowers and gaillardia, lilies, hydrangeas, crocosima, and more! Everything is growing with a crazy floral abandon, but it’s so pretty! Every day there is something different to look at, and I think that is part of the beauty of doing a cottage-style or layered garden. We have also had our fair share of sudden and very crazy rainstorms that have done some damage, but so far the garden is recovering nicely and blooming on.

A gorgeous lily (Lilium hybrid, Zones 4–9)

Each bloom on this rich red daylily (Hemerocallis hybrid, Zones 4–9) lasts only one day, but they make up for it by producing so many flowers and thriving so effortlessly.

Bee balm (Monarda didyma, Zones 4–8) is a wonderful native perennial with some of the brightest red flowers out there.

The garden path has almost disappeared in the abundance of summer blooms.

This little plant goes by many names (e.g., candy lily, belamcanda), but most botanists agree that it is actually a species of iris: Iris domestica (Zones 5–9). Like those of a daylily, the cheery flowers only last one day, but they are produced in huge numbers and are followed up by clusters of attractive shiny black seeds.

Carla had an artist transform a dead tree in her garden into a beautiful sculpture. I love these foxes half-hidden behind plants.

There are so many daylily varieties that you can find one to suit nearly any color scheme and taste.

Layer upon layer of plants keep this garden beautiful and full of interest.

Contrasting colors and textures of foliage create a space that needs no flowers for beauty.

A bright daylily bloom is paired with the intense red of crocosmia (Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’, Zones 5–9).

A shaded bench to sit and take it all in

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

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This puppy has everything.  It’s an Argentine-style grill, meaning it’s meant to use with live fire and has a grill rack that you can raise up or down to adjust the cooking temperature. There’s a firebox on the side where you build and continue to feed your fire throughout cooking; the coals fall through slots in the basket and you can then move them over to under the grill rack. There’s even a warming drawer. It’s quite the marvel.  

Yes, you can use the Ñuke Delta with charcoal—but again, why? Yes, burning wood is bad for the planet, but I’m not cooking that often.  nd as the daughter of a fire protection engineer, I’m very careful about creating any house fire or wildfire risks. I won’t grill if the conditions are too dry or windy, I have a garden hose nearby, and my grill is placed away from the house and away from low trees and shrubs. I even created a little platform on some cement pavers onto which I mortared and grouted some cement tiles from Lili Tiles. The effect, if I do say so myself, is a little grilling oasis—and, more important, a level grilling surface. I probably will expand the footprint of the pavers/tiles and maybe add more of a prep station setup down the road. (Let me know if you have ideas!)

You can just grill straight-up on the Ñuke Delta’s grates; I do that a lot, especially with steaks. For more delicate endeavors—think fish or vegetables—I use Made In’s carbon steel grill pan a ton, which makes it easy to stir-fry or sauté anything right over the firebox. I also have Made In’s half grill griddle, which is great if I want, for instance, the fire to lick the burgers I’m grilling but not the vegetables. And incidentally, if you are intrigued by fire cooking but can’t make the full Argentine grill plunge, Made In has a very cool rack system so you can build a fire under it and make your own live-fire cooking set up, at home or on the road.

Lest I forget to say, food tastes better when it’s cooked over real fire. Plus, I look like a total rock star when we entertain; the fire keeps away the mosquitos; and I’ve realized that when the food is all cooked but I still have a log or two burning, I can carry it over (wearing my fireproof gloves and using tongs, of course) to my Solo Stove and instantly get a fire going in there for everyone to hang out around during or after dinner.  

And are you ready for this? I recently discovered that there’s a pizza oven attachment that can rest above the giant Yukon Solo Stove, which is what I have: The Pi Fire sits on top of the Solo Stove so you can make pizza. Solo makes a free-standing pizza oven that looks great, too, but I love the versatility of the Pi Fire. It’s so smart and seamless, and again, pizza cooked in, over, or around fire just tastes better. Don’t take my word for it. Try it yourself! Fire. Is. Better.

See also:

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No offense to roses, but let’s be honest: A rose bush isn’t exactly stunning when it isn’t in bloom.

Sure, it can be a lovely addition to the garden as a foliage plant, but there are certainly better options if you’re looking for some gorgeous greenery.

We grow roses for the blossoms. It’s those big, beautiful, elegant flowers that we’re after, the ones that fill vases and bouquets, and that have inspired artists for centuries.

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That’s why it’s so devastating when a rose doesn’t bloom. I mean, what’s the point in nurturing this plant all year long if it isn’t going to burst forth with those incredible flowers?

There are many reasons why a rose will fail to blossom. Here are the top nine common causes that we’ll discuss in this article:

Can’t wait to see new blossoms forming? Let’s get going!

1. Blind Shoots

Blind what? Let me explain – blind shoots are stems that form without buds.

The rest of the plant might look normal and as happy as can be, and the shoots themselves look healthy. But no matter how long it grows, a blind shoot never produces a bloom.

One or two blind shoots are no big deal, but when more and more form, your plant will suddenly fail to have anywhere near as many blossoms as usual.

I’ve even seen a plant that was made up almost entirely of blind shoots in my day, and it wasn’t pretty.

Hybrid teas suffer most from this problem, but it can happen to any type of rose.

While the science isn’t clear on what causes this issue, it seems to be the result of fluctuations between warm and cool, and dry and wet weather.

These shoots are fairly easy to identify. If all the surrounding shoots have a bud forming but one doesn’t even have the hint of a bud on the end, it’s a blind shoot.

Be sure to check your plants regularly to avoid this problem. To address blind shoots when you see them, just snip the head off of any shoots that don’t bloom with a pair of clean clippers, cutting above a five-leaf leaflet.

2. Disease

A diseased plant is stressed, and a stressed plant doesn’t always produce flowers. So while any disease may result in fewer flowers, there are a few in particular to watch for.

You can read more about all of these common rose diseases in our guide.

Black spot causes fewer flowers to form, and the ones that do form are thinner and more pale than normal.

With botrytis blight, the buds may fail to open or they might be distorted if they do. This is also the case with rose mosaic virus.

If your plant has powdery mildew, buds will form, but they often won’t open. If they do open, they’ll be distorted and discolored.

Check out our guide to powdery mildew for tips on identifying and dealing with it.

3. Fertilizer Issues

Fertilizer is a good thing. Plants need food to thrive. But too much or the wrong kind of fertilizer will encourage the plant to produce foliage at the expense of blossoms.

Besides sunlight problems, this is one of the top most common issues that reduces or stops flowering.

When you fertilize roses, don’t use a nitrogen-heavy food. You want something more balanced for flowering plants.

You can find commercial fertilizers made just for roses, but I personally love Down to Earth’s Alfalfa Meal, and I swear I’m not just saying that because you can buy some from Arbico Organics and we earn a small commission.

Down to Earth Alfalfa Meal

I like DTE in general because their products are made from natural ingredients and the boxes are compostable, so they don’t have such a large impact on the environment as synthetic fertilizers.

Plus, alfalfa provides a good balance of nitrogen, magnesium, phosphorus, and other nutrients like calcium, iron, and zinc. This encourages healthy plant growth.

Don’t neglect the nitrogen entirely, however. Nitrogen is responsible for helping the plant develop new growth, and new growth is where the buds form. If they have weak or not enough new growth, your plants won’t bloom.

That’s why doing an annual soil test to determine what nutrients your soil might be lacking is a good idea.

4. Not Enough Sunlight

Sunlight is definitely the most common environmental stressor that prevents blossoming. And when I say sunlight, what I actually mean here is a lack of light.

I’ve never seen a rose fail to blossom because it was receiving too much sun. But not enough sun? Happens all the time.

If you had plenty of blossoms in previous years, but now your plant is producing fewer or smaller flowers, don’t assume light exposure isn’t the problem.

The exposure might have changed. You may have had a tree grow larger and now it is blocking the sunlight, for example.

The best way to tell if sunlight is an issue is to watch your rose for a day or two, and record how much direct light is hitting it throughout the day in your gardening journal.

Most roses prefer full sun, though some will still blossom in part sun or part shade. Be sure to do your research to determine how much your plant needs.

Prune away any overgrown trees and shrubs surrounding your roses, or move your rose if it isn’t receiving the light it needs. We have a guide to transplanting roses if you run into this problem.

5. Not Pruning Often Enough

Don’t wait too long to prune your roses. Just as over pruning can cause problems, which we’ll cover below, so can failing to prune enough.

Roses need yearly pruning to flower abundantly. And some roses only flower on new growth, not old wood.

When you cut a cane, the plant sends out new canes to replace the parts you removed. If you don’t prune your plant often enough, it won’t produce as much new growth.

If this is the case, the plant will focus its energy on the existing canes instead. Eventually, this results in a reduction in flowers to the point where you might have none at all.

Luckily, the solution is pretty simple. If you haven’t pruned in a few years, get on it!

6. Pests

If pests are a problem, most of the time you will see buds start to develop but they won’t open. If they do open, they will be distorted or discolored, or may show signs of having been nibbled on.

A high number of aphids may cause fewer or distorted blossoms to form, while Japanese beetles feed on forming buds, which can prevent them from opening.

Thrips cause buds to open early and the flowers will typically be distorted and discolored.

Scale can result in fewer or no blossoms, depending on the severity of the infestation, as can slugs and leafhoppers.

Keep a close eye on your plants for any signs of pests. If you find aphids, Japanese beetles, thrips, or slugs, break out the insecticidal soap, or head to one of our pest guides for more info.

For scale insects, treat with horticultural oil, or scrape the pests off the plant.

7. Pruning Too Much

When it comes to things that you can do to cause your roses not to bloom, pruning incorrectly is one of the biggies.

Some roses you can prune away liberally and they’ll still give you a colorful show. But other varieties, like old garden roses, take a bit more care. Damask and moss roses are particularly sensitive to over as well as under pruning.

Don’t prune too much or too early in the spring, or you run the risk of cutting off the stuff that the plant needs to blossom that year. If you were a bit heavy-handed, just give the plant a year to recover and it should be fine.

In the future, prune old garden roses in the fall rather than the spring.

For tips on how to prune the right way so you can avoid this issue in the future, read our pruning guide.

8. They Already Bloomed

Roses aren’t exactly known for having a short blossom period, but sometimes you get busy and you simply don’t notice what’s happening in your garden.

Maybe you went on vacation, or had a lot going on for a few weeks.

Now you’re wondering where those blossoms are. Take a good look at your bush. If you see hips on your plant, that means it has already bloomed.

Some types bloom more than once, while others are one-and-done bloomers.

I once had a friend ask for help diagnosing their rose woes only to discover that their plant was perfectly healthy, it was just finished for the season.

Make sure you know when your particular rose blooms, and whether it is a repeat bloomer or not. Knowing how to properly deadhead your plants can help to promote repeat blooming.

9. Watering Issues

Remember, a rose that is stressed may not send out blossoms. A lack of or too much moisture can cause stress.

If you have a particularly dry week or you miss one day of watering, that isn’t enough to ruin things. This is more of a chronic overwatering or underwatering situation.

Use a soil moisture meter to determine whether your plant is receiving the right amount of moisture.

If it isn’t, make sure to adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

Bring Back Those Beautiful Blossoms

There are a lot of different things that can make a rose fail to bloom, but don’t despair. Roses want to show off their flowers – that’s how they reproduce. They just need a little support from you!

Now, you’re armed with the tools you need to identify and address the problem so you can bring those blossoms back into your life.

Which issue are your plants struggling with? How did you address it? Let us know in the comments section below!

If this guide helped you get a handle on the situation, you might be ready to tackle some other rose-growing challenges. If so, check out these guides next:

One of the bright spots of the fall season – aside from Halloween! – is the pumpkin patches, filled with their beautiful bounty.

But while you may be imagining lush patches filled with bright orange fruits in the prime of health, it takes some work to get them there. And pumpkins can have their fair share of problems.

Are your pumpkin plants wilting?

Many things can cause this common complaint, including watering issues, and various types of pests and diseases as well.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

We will discuss these common causes, and what to do if your pumpkin plants are wilting.

Here’s everything we’ll cover:

11 Common Causes for Wilting Pumpkin Plants

Irrigation Issues

Sometimes it seems like there is just no pleasing certain plants.

If the soil is too dry, your pumpkin plants may wilt. And if the soil is too moist, they may wilt in that case as well.

What’s a gardener to do?

Your best bet is to follow the advice in our guide to growing pumpkins and make sure you provide one to one and a half inches of water per week, including rainfall.

Not sure if they’re getting too much or too little? Let’s take a closer look.

1. Too Little Water

Probably the most common problem on this list, failing to provide enough water can lead to wilting. Fortunately, it’s also the easiest issue to solve.

Pumpkins love to sprawl, and those big vines can guzzle up a lot of liquid in the heat of the summer!

If your plants are wilting due to dry soil, as long as they are healthy otherwise, this can easily be remedied if you catch it in time.

Pumpkins have shallow roots, and you don’t want to disturb them. Check the soil near your plants with your finger or a moisture meter to see if it is dry about an inch down.

If it is, a deep watering should perk them up again. Come back and check again the next day.

During periods of hot, dry weather, they may need supplemental water daily. Be sure to apply it at the soil level, and avoid sprinkling the leaves, fruit, and vines.

If the plants haven’t perked back up in a day or so, another issue may be at play.

2. Too Much Water

Pumpkin plants may also wilt if the soil is too moist. Waterlogged soil can result in fatal root rots. No longer able to take up water, the vines lose color and die.

The soil can accumulate too much moisture from the obvious – heavy precipitation or over-irrigation – or from a lack of adequate drainage.

In the worst cases, both may be contributing to the poor health of your plants.

You can plant your pumpkins in mounds to prevent flooding, incorporating compost or sand into the soil to improve drainage before you sow the seeds, and watering only as needed.

To check for rot, you can carefully dig up your plant and examine the roots. If they are brown or black and slimy, disease has taken hold.

Consider transplanting your waterlogged vines to a more suitable location like a raised bed with excellent drainage as a triage measure.

They may not survive the move, but with any luck, you’ll be able to improve their growing situation adequately and they will return to good health.

Otherwise, dispose of them, and try again next year.

Diseases and Pests

A number of microbes that cause plants to wilt may also affect pumpkins. Pests can also cause damage that leads to wilting, or they may serve as vectors for disease.

Unfortunately, in many cases your plants will already be too far gone once you notice that they are wilting due to infection, though there are a few steps you can take to try to mitigate the damage that we’ll go over below, depending on the cause.

To protect the health of your plants, prevention is key.

You may not be able to save a pumpkin that’s already started to wilt this year, but you can use that knowledge to garden smarter in the following season, using integrated pest management (IPM) techniques and best practices for care.

Be sure to keep notes in your gardening journal that you can return to next season!

Fungi and Water Molds

One way to control these diseases is to avoid growing any type of cucurbit – including pumpkins, cucumbers, squash, zucchini, gourds, and cantaloupes – again in the same area of the garden for at least three to four years.

Providing adequate spacing to allow for proper airflow, and watering only at the soil level rather than sprinkling the foliage, fruit, and vines, can help to prevent fungal diseases.

An overly moist environment, on the other hand, with crowded beds that leave little breathing room and where plants are not able to dry off quickly after rain, can serve as the perfect breeding ground for disease pathogens that like this type of environment, such as fungi and water molds.

Keeping the garden free of weeds and plant debris, both during and after the growing season, can also help to prevent the spread of these diseases.

Always be sure to clean and sanitize your tools before working in the garden, and moving from one plant to another. And don’t forget that gardening shoes can spread disease pathogens too!

3. Fusarium Crown Rot

More common in melons and cucumbers, Fusarium solani f. sp. cucurbitae is a fungus that may attack pumpkins as well. It can infect the crown, roots, and even the fruit.

Fusarium crown rot travels down from the crown into the roots, and wilting is a common symptom. Additional symptoms are similar to those caused by Phytophthora crown rot, so it is important to know what to look for.

Leaves will turn yellow before browning at the tips, followed by a complete collapse of the plants. Infected stems may be discolored, either yellowish or orange.

If you cut open an infected stem at the crown, it may be pink or brownish inside.

Stressed and fruiting plants are the most susceptible to severe infections. And unfortunately, Fusarium fungal spores can survive in the soil indefinitely.

Infections may be scattered throughout the garden, and since Fusarium crown rot is difficult to control, prevention is highly important.

A key factor is being careful not to move contaminated soil or tools from areas of the garden where this pathogen is a problem into new spaces where the infection may spread.

Biofungicides like RootShield and CEASE can also help to control soilborne pathogens like Fusarium.

4. Phytophthora Crown Rot

Yet another pernicious pathogen of pumpkins is the water mold Phytophthora capsici. The type of crown rot that it causes is a classic problem in wet soils.

Professor emeritus Richard Latin and plant disease diagnostician Karen Rane of Purdue University consider this disorder to be “one of the most serious threats to pumpkin production in Midwestern states.”

It has caused severe crop losses in the Northeast as well.

This pathogen may infect many different types of vegetables as well, including tomatoes and most varieties of peppers.

Phytophthora can survive in the soil indefinitely, and as described by assistant professor and extension specialist Zachariah Hansen, graduate assistant Timothy Siegenthaler, and student assistant Andrew Swafford in the department of entomology and plant pathology at the University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture Extension, it is “nearly impossible to remove” once it has become established.

This pathogen can spread quickly within and among fields or home gardens. And all types of pumpkins are susceptible to this rot.

You may first notice a problem when you find cottony white mold on the surface of the fruit. Wilting will soon follow, then the vine will eventually collapse and die.

When the culprit is Phytophthora, the rot travels up from the crown into the vines, and the roots may go unscathed. The infected tissue is dark in color, both inside and out.

Plants infected by Phytophthora are usually found in areas where drainage is poor.

Certain fungicides are an option for treatment if you apply them in the early stages of the disease.

Fosetyl-aluminum is a classic treatment for water molds.

Monterey Agri-Fos

You can buy Monterey Agri-Fos Disease Control Fungicide, a product containing this chemical, from Amazon.

Be sure to spray the whole plant as soon as you see symptoms, as a control measure. You can repeat as needed, but making more than six applications per season isn’t recommended.

As with many other pumpkin diseases, crop rotation for four years or more is important after the disease has been noted.

And not just any crop rotation – you will also need to avoid growing snap beans and solanaceous crops like tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers in the area, as well as other cucurbits.

Growing in raised beds or containers filled with new soil each year is another option.

Though rare, if you happen to use pond water to irrigate, stop right away!

Infested irrigation water is a common source of this disease among commercial growers, and your plants can be affected at home as well if you aren’t providing supplementary irrigation from a well or municipal source that is pathogen-free.

Do not transport soil that may be carrying the pathogen to other areas of the garden, to prevent further spread.

If Phytophthora has been a problem in your garden in the past, you can treat the soil preventively with the biofungicides described in the Fusarium crown rot section above at planting time.

Read more about Fusarium and Phytophthora crown rot here.

5. Pythium Root Rot

If you have been gardening for long enough, you have probably dealt with this water mold before, possibly without even realizing it. Pythium species are a common cause of damping off.

These pathogens, known as oomycetes, may cause what’s sometimes referred to as “sudden wilt” in pumpkin plants.

They favor wet conditions, and infections are common in plants grown in heavy soil like clay that retains water.

Infecting plants at the roots, previously healthy-looking leaves will suddenly wilt and turn yellow or white, and sometimes brown around the edges.

This disease progresses rapidly. By the time you notice that your plants are wilting, it’s already too late to save them. They will quickly collapse and die.

Fruit on the vine may be infected as well, affecting the rinds particularly if they are sitting on bare, moist soil. This results in unsightly rotting and scarring, or fluffy white growths.

Pythium root rot is highly contagious, so if you have pumpkin plants that fall victim to this disease, quickly remove them from the garden and dispose of them to prevent further spread.

Be on the lookout next year – if you catch a problem with overly wet conditions early on, you may be able to take steps to mitigate them.

6. Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease that is common in pumpkins, but it can be difficult to diagnose.

Caused primarily by Verticillium dahliae and V. albo-atrum, it may afflict hundreds of species of plants when the weather is warm and dry, attacking the roots.

Lower leaves wilt and start to turn yellow. Then they dry up, turn brown, and die.

You may note symptoms on just one side of your plant, which can help to distinguish this issue from the normal aging process.

Unfortunately, this disease is generally fatal. Proper fertilizing and watering to maintain the health of plants as best you can may help to extend their life, so you can still achieve a harvest.

Read our article on how and when to fertilize pumpkin plants for tips.

The fungi can live in decaying tissue in the soil for up to 10 years. This means a single infected plant can wreak havoc in the garden, so do your best to purge any that are infected, and dispose of them properly.

Bacteria

Both of the most common bacterial diseases related to wilt that affect pumpkins are associated with insect vectors.

Monitoring your garden regularly for signs of pest infestation, using floating row covers to keep insects out, and even planting trap crops to draw them away from your pumpkin patch may serve as effective means of controlling for bacterial disease.

7. Bacterial Wilt

You might not recognize the name Erwinia, but you may already be familiar with the effects of these pathogens. Several species can cause devastating soft rot infections in potatoes and other vegetables.

Caused by Erwinia tracheiphila in pumpkins, the bacteria spread throughout the xylem – the tubes that carry water upward in the plant. And they produce slime that interferes with the movement of water by gumming up the xylem.

Without the ability to take up water, plants will wilt.

At first, they may just wilt in the heat of the day and then recover later on. But as the disease spreads, often over the course of just a few days, the whole plant will wilt and then die.

Cut an infected stem open and slowly pull it apart. If you see whitish, slimy, mucus-like strands that are connected to the two pieces of the stem, that means the wilting is likely caused by E. tracheiphila.

However, according to Dr. Erika Saalau Rojas, lead author of an extensive study on bacterial wilt, this technique doesn’t always work.

You should try it, though, in case it provides a clear answer for you!

More definitively, beetles are almost undoubtedly a factor.

On its own, E. tracheiphila would not be a problem for your pumpkins. The bacteria does not have the ability to spread by its own means.

These bacteria are not transmitted in seed, and cannot survive in soil. They only live in plant debris for a short time.

So, how do they spread? Their secret to success is in their intimate relationship with cucumber beetles, which we’ll cover in more detail below.

In addition to being transmitted to plants when the beetles feed, the bacteria overwinter in the digestive tracts of these pests as well, enabling future spread if the bugs are not eradicated.

But pesticides will not help if your pumpkin is already suffering from bacterial wilt and showing symptoms.

The best thing to do is to remove infected plants from your garden as quickly as possible and dispose of them properly, to prevent the disease from spreading.

To prevent bacterial wilt disease from occurring in your plants in the first place, your best option is to control the cucumber beetles if you spot them.

8. Yellow Vine Disease

This disease causes pumpkin plants and other cucurbits to turn yellow, wilt, and then die. Leaf margins curl inwards, and larger leaves may turn brown or appear scorched at the margins, though the fruit will typically look just fine.

You can tell if your vines are suffering from this disease by cutting one of the affected stems crosswise. Typically, the cross section will be bright yellow inside, with a brown circle around the outside.

Once believed to be caused by a virus, pink-colored bacteria called Serratia marcescens are actually the culprits.

This is yet another disease that would not be a problem were it not for pests – squash bugs, in this case. Both damage caused by the pests themselves as well as the disease they carry can cause your plants to wilt.

Symptoms of yellow vine disease usually reveal themselves late in the season, just prior to harvest. But infected plants may sometimes wilt and collapse suddenly in the middle of the season as well, or just after fruit set.

There is no effective form of control for this bacterial disease, so control efforts should focus on the squash bugs instead.

Harvest your pumpkins early, so they don’t die on the vine, and dispose of the vines, leaves, and roots in the trash.

Insect Pests

Insect pests, what a bother! While some cause wilting directly, others may spread diseases that make pumpkin leaves droop.

They crave the juicy succulence of homegrown plants as much as we do, though they may sometimes delight in the taste or benefit from the nutrition of different parts than the ones we prefer, and pumpkins are no exception.

When dealing with pests, it’s important to keep beneficial insects in mind as well. Be sure to positively identify the creepy-crawlies that you think may be causing a problem, and address them appropriately and with care.

Pumpkins rely on pollinators to produce those tasty orange orbs, and being overzealous with chemical pest control methods – or even floating row covers – can be a disservice to your plants if the flowers are not pollinated.

9. Cucumber Beetles

Several species of cucumber beetles may harbor and spread this fatal pathogen: striped (Acalymma vittatum), Western striped (A. trivittatum), and spotted (Diabrotica undecimpunctata).

These insects are small, about a quarter of an inch in length, and they feature black and yellow stripes or spots on their backs.

The hungry beetles emerge from the ground in the spring with one mission: to feast on your plants.

Pumpkin leaves are typically toxic to insects, thanks to the cucurbitacins they contain. However, these toxins do not affect striped cucumber beetles.

The spotted variety may sometimes visit your pumpkins as well, though experts claim they do not typically appear in large enough numbers to justify control.

When they feed, the cucumber beetles make wounds that serve as entryways for the disease pathogens that lurk in their mouths or frass. And they can transmit bacterial wilt or cucumber mosaic virus to plants.

Larvae feed on roots while the adults may feed on young shoots, flowers, and leaves, as well as fruit.

Though the damage that results from feeding does not cause plants to wilt, the spread of Erwinia tracheiphila bacteria certainly will.

As a preventive measure to ward off the spread of disease, be sure to keep the garden free of weeds, which may serve as hosts to these insects through the winter, and apply mulch around your plants to prevent the pests from laying eggs.

Rotate your crops from year to year, and remove debris and leaf litter at the end of the season, so the beetles will have fewer sites available to overwinter.

Start looking for cucumber beetles when your pumpkin plants are young, and continue with regular checks until they have started producing fruit. Fortunately, thanks to their contrasting colors, the adults are easy to spot!

Floating row covers can also help to prevent an infestation and later infection. Leave them on until your pumpkins have started blooming.

10. Squash Bugs

These sap-sucking insects, Anasa tristis, use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to extract the sap from leaves, causing yellow discoloration that eventually turns brown. And severe infestations can cause wilting.

A vector for yellow vine disease, these common pests are dark gray to brown or black in color, and about five-eighths of an inch long. They look quite a bit like stink bugs, at least from afar, with flat, shield-shaped backs.

Their eggs are bronze-colored and football shaped, and these are deposited on the undersides of leaves in groups.

While larger, well-established plants may be able to resist an infestation, seedlings and plants that are in flower are more vulnerable. In the wake of a feeding frenzy, they may wilt and then die.

More common earlier in the growing season, the adults usually start showing up in gardens in early June, to feed and mate.

Once your plants start to wilt, the adults have already done their worst, and they can be hard to kill.

Row covers can help to keep the pests out, but be sure to remove them in time for pollination.

Insecticide treatments may be used to get rid of them, applied early in the morning or late at night to avoid interfering with the activity of beneficial pollinators.

Be sure to spray under leaves as well, because this is where the pests like to congregate.

Organic insecticidal soap may be applied to control squash bugs. You can also place a board in the garden nearby, as a trap. Remember to flip it over frequently, and kill any pests that you find hiding underneath.

Synthetic pyrethroids may also be used to eradicate these pests. Spray seedlings early in the season, as soon as squash bugs emerge. As an added bonus, these chemicals can help to control cucumber beetles as well.

Be sure to heed local regulations regarding the use of chemical insecticides, use them sparingly, and follow all package instructions closely.

These insects can overwinter in plant debris, so be sure to keep the garden clean during the season, and clean it up properly after the harvest as well. Wooden board traps should also be removed from the garden in the fall.

As a preventive measure, grow resistant varieties, and provide good care. Healthy plants are much more likely to survive an infestation than weak or stressed ones.

Learn more about how to control squash bugs here.

11. Squash Vine Borers

A moth in its adult stage, squash vine borer larvae love to feed on pumpkin stems, boring holes in them, and weakening your plants. This can cause them to wilt quickly.

Common in the eastern US, adults emerge in early to midsummer and lay their eggs at the base of plants.

The moths have a distinctive appearance, half an inch long with gray to black bodies that have orange and black markings, and clear to transparent green wings.

When the larvae hatch one or two weeks later, they start to feed. These can grow to be about an inch long, and they are white and wrinkled, with brown heads.

If you monitor them closely, you may be able to prevent a problem before it starts, or save your plants in the case of a minor infestation. Row covers can also help to keep them out, as long as the eggs or larvae aren’t already there.

Squash vine borers will target various types of squash and gourds. But ‘Hubbard’ squash is one of their favorite meals, so these can be planted as a trap crop. Parasitic wasps can provide biological control.

Diatomaceous earth can be applied preventively around the base of plants, to kill emerging larvae. And some gardeners swear by using wood ashes against these pests.

If you notice holes in your vines, you can perform a little surgery. Cut a small slit at the point of entry with a clean, sharp knife. Dig the larva out, dispose of it, and cover the wound in the stem with soil.

With proper care, the plant should heal at the entry point, and put out new roots where it’s been buried.

If you opt to use pesticides, timing is crucial, and they’ll only be effective if applied just when the eggs are hatching.

Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki is a natural option, and chemical insecticides containing carbaryl or permethrin can be effective as well. Again, proceed with caution if you opt for chemical controls.

The best way to deal with these pests is preventively. Keep an eye out for flat, brown, oval-shaped eggs laid individually or in small groups around the crown.

After they hatch, inspect your plants for holes at the base, and yellowish frass that resembles sawdust.

Squash vine borers pupate in the soil, so be sure to rotate your crops, till the soil after the harvest and before planting time next spring, and clean up all plant debris at the end of the season.

Prevention Is Your Best Bet

Knowledge of the various factors, pests, and pathogens that may cause your pumpkin plants to droop will give you a fighting chance of saving your crop if wilting becomes an issue.

Take preventive measures to prevent infection and pest infestation, and follow proper care procedures to keep your pumpkins as healthy as possible.

Check your plants every few days to make sure they are not wilting from too little or too much water, or showing signs of disease. And also monitor for cucumber beetles, squash vine borers, and squash bugs.

Purge any infected plants ASAP, to keep the pathogens from spreading throughout your pumpkin patch.

Our hope is that with these tips, you will succeed at growing giant pumpkins! (Or little ones, if that’s what you prefer).

Have you struggled with wilting pumpkin plants? Have an issue that you’re trying to diagnose? If so, let us know in the comments!

And for more information about growing pumpkins in your garden, check out these guides next:

Mustard pickles are a yummy treat. This recipe is quick and easy to make – and it’s oh, so, delicious.

If you love classic recipes, and are looking for a way to use your abundant crop of cucumbers, making mustard pickles is perfect.

You can whip up a batch with a handful of common ingredients. They’re great on burgers and sandwiches, or simply to snack on right out of the jar.

In this post, I’ll show you exactly how to make mustard pickles with my full recipe and detailed step by step instructions.

Homemade Mustard Pickles

Mustard pickles are a classic recipe that has been around for many generations, and making them is a great way to use up all of your summer cucumbers.

Homemade always tastes better than store-bought, and these are no exception. They’re delicious on burgers, hotdogs, and sandwiches, or you can enjoy them right out of the jar.

With just a few simple steps, you can make them anytime you have a craving, and you don’t need any special tools or equipment – no canning required.

What Are Mustard Pickles?

Mustard pickles are very similar to bread and butter pickles, but they contain a lot more mustard.

They are traditionally made using ingredients like vinegar, sugar, salt, turmeric, mustard, and of course cucumbers.

It’s also very common to add other ingredients, like diced onions, cauliflower, tomatoes, celery salt, and/or red pepper flakes.

Related Post: How To Grow Cucumbers In Your Garden

What Do Mustard Pickles Taste Like?

These pickles taste tangy yet sweet, with a mustard-forward flavor and a satisfying crunch.

Since I used apple cider vinegar in my recipe, these are slightly sweeter than they would be if you used plain white, which you could substitute for instead.

Best Type Of Mustard To Use For Pickles

The best type of mustard to use for making pickles, and the kind I used in this recipe, is a basic dried yellow powder.

You could certainly try substituting other types of mustard, but the yellow powdered kind will give you the best flavor and color.

How To Make Mustard Pickles

The best part about this mustard pickles recipe is that you’ll only need a few simple ingredients to make them, most of which you should already have in your kitchen.

This recipe is also very flexible. After making it once to see how you like it, you can experiment with modifying the ingredients.

For example, add spice with crushed red pepper, make it sweeter by adjusting the sugar, or tangier depending on the type of vinegar you use.

Mustard Pickles Recipe Ingredients

• Cucumbers – Use the freshest cucumbers you can find (fresh out of the garden is best), and make sure to slice them thick enough so they’ll have a nice crunch, about ¼ inch works well.

• Onion – This balances out the tanginess of the vinegar. It also offers a nice additional texture and crunch to the recipe. I recommend using sweet onions (like Walla Walla, Maui, or Vidalia), but any type of white or yellow will work.

• Vinegar – This helps to preserve the color, texture, and flavor of the vegetables, while adding a tangy taste profile. I used apple cider vinegar, but you could use white wine vinegar instead. What’s important is that whatever type you use has a 5% acidity.

• Sugar – This adds sweetness and also helps to balance out the tanginess of the vinegar.

• Dry powdered mustard – This is the essence and main flavor of this recipe. It offers the tangy yet deep, slightly warm, and pungent flavor that we’re looking for.

• Turmeric – This ingredient adds a peppery essence to the brine as well as enhancing the bright yellow tone. Remember, a little goes a long way.

• Flour – We’ll use this to thicken the brine into a creamy sauce. It’s important to note that if you plan to can this recipe, then you must use 1-2 tablespoons of Clear Jel instead, as flour is not safe for canning. Or skip the thickener all together if you prefer a thinner liquid brine.

• Salt – We use this to soak the cucumbers. It adds flavor, but also helps maintain the crispness of the veggies, and enhances their ability to absorb the flavors of the brine.

• Water – We use this to thin the brine sauce as necessary, and to make the saltwater soak for the cucumbers.

Tools & Equipment Needed

For this homemade mustard pickle recipe you’ll need a few common kitchen tools. Gather everything together beforehand to speed things up.

Tips For Making Mustard Pickles

Making mustard pickles is easy, but I have a few important tips for you so that you’ll have the best success.

Be very careful to cook the brine sauce on a medium to low heat, and whisk it nearly constantly.

I have, by accident, burned the sauce by cooking it on high, which ruins it. But turning the heat up too much can also cause it to become overly thick, even if it doesn’t burn.

If yours gets too thick, add a few tablespoons of water at a time while whisking on low heat to thin it.

The ideal consistency should be creamy to the point where it clings to your spoon, but not as thick as pudding.

Related Post: How To Freeze Cucumbers The Right Way

Canning Mustard Pickles (Optional)

If you’d like to keep your mustard pickles for longer, you could try canning this recipe using a water bath canner. If you choose to do this, make sure to use the Clear Jel thickener instead of flour.

Simply place your sealed jars in a boiling water bath, cover the pot with the lid, and process the jars for 10 minutes (adjusting for altitude, if necessary).

Once done, turn off the burner, remove the lid, and let the jars cool in the canner for 5 minutes.

Then remove the jars from the canner and allow them to come to room temperature before removing the bands and storing the sealed jars.

Using & Storing Mustard Pickles

Store your unsealed jars of homemade mustard pickles in the refrigerator.

If chose to can them, store them in a cool dark place, such as a pantry or cupboard.

How Long Do Homemade Mustard Pickles Last?

Your mustard pickles will last 3-4 weeks in the refrigerator, or up to 8 months in the pantry if you seal the jars in a water bath canner.

Related Post: When To Pick Cucumbers & How To Harvest Them

FAQs

Here are some answers to the most common questions about making mustard pickles.

What do you eat with mustard pickles?

You can eat mustard pickles right out of the jar, or use them as a condiment or garnish. They are also great on burgers, hotdogs, and sandwiches. Or add them to your favorite relish tray or charcuterie board.

What are mustard pickles made of?

Traditionally, mustard pickles are made of cucumbers, vinegar, salt, sugar, mustard, turmeric, and water. Other common ingredients include onions, cauliflower, celery salt, and red pepper flakes.

Is it safe to use flour in mustard pickles?

It is safe to use flour in refrigerator mustard pickles, but it is not safe to use if you’re canning them. If you plan to can them, then use 1-2 tablespoons of Clear Jel instead. You could also skip it altogether. The brine will be thinner, but it will still have a delicious flavor.

If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More Garden Fresh Recipes

Share your favorite mustard pickles recipe in the comments section below.

Recipe & Instructions

At the heart of these regions, you’re always sure to find outstanding apples. This fruit is a staple for farmers and for our diets.

So, it’s no surprise I’ve consumed one or two (thousand) over the years. It’s fair to say, I’m both a fan and a critic.

My fruit standards are high, and I don’t go around promoting particular varieties willy-nilly. To put my stamp on a fruit, that baby better take my breath away.

So, when I say it’s good, trust me – it’s good. And this one is better than good, better than great. ‘Braeburn’ apples are quite possibly perfect.

Plant a ‘Braeburn’ apple in your garden and you’ll be the envy of your neighbors. Share the fruit with them and they’ll be your friends for life.

I’ll explain all you need to know about growing this special tree. Here’s what’s ahead:

Let’s get to know this ‘Braeburn’ a little better.

What Are Braeburn Apples?

‘Braeburn’ is a cultivar of the domesticated apple, a member of the genus Malus, which contains about 35 species of deciduous trees and shrubs from Europe, Asia, and North America.

‘Braeburn’ was discovered in New Zealand. I’ll explain more about that story later.

This cultivar is popular for its taste, high yields, and its beauty. Each spring it awakens with delicate white blossoms, followed by large, bountiful fruits.

Although the blossoms and foliage of ‘Braeburn’ are quite attractive, its ornamental characteristics are considered by many to be secondary to its production value.

The apples are usually medium to large in size, with color that varies from greenish-gold with hints of red blushing to solid red.

‘Braeburn’ apples offer a satisfying balance of sweet and tart with a firm texture, making them suitable for snacking and cooking in everything from ciders to sauces, and baking to freezing.

These trees thrive best in moderate to warm climates, and grafting on different rootstocks provides choices for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 who may have different space requirements or cultivation needs.

As with many favorite fruit trees in North America, the ‘Braeburn’ apple has a spotty origin story. Read on to learn what we know about its past.

Cultivation and History

‘Braeburn’ was discovered in New Zealand in 1952 as what is known as a “chance seedling” – an unintentionally planted specimen.

A farmer named Moran spotted the tree in a fenceline on his farm in Motueka, Nelson region, back in 1952.

For context, the growing conditions there are roughly equivalent to that of USDA Zones 9b to 10a.

Moran didn’t recognize the apples growing on this rogue specimen, so he picked one and brought it to Williams Brothers nursery, near the town of Braeburn, for identification.

The nursery owners suspected the fruit was a cross between ‘Lady Hamilton’ and ‘Granny Smith,’ although a recent genetic study has identified the most probable parents as ‘Delicious’ and ‘Sturmer’s Pippin.’

Williams Brothers grafted cuttings from the tree onto their own rootstock and began cultivating its offspring in their orchard on Braeburn road.

Some years later, Williams Brothers gave the cultivar to what was then the Apple and Pear Board of New Zealand. Neither the Moran family nor the Williams brothers have ever received a royalty for the discovery and cultivation of this popular variety.

‘Braeburn’ apples were introduced to the US in the 1980s and have become a favorite for many reasons.

Happily flourishing in USDA Zones 4 to 9, they’re relatively fuss-free and easy for growers to manage.

They also happen to be delicious for snacking and perfect for cooking and baking, versatile beyond belief.

So, whether we’re talking about producers, consumers, or sellers – everyone loves them. And my bet is you probably will too.

Braeburn Apple Propagation

When propagating apple trees, most growers use grafting. This method is efficient and provides control over the desired genetics.

By grafting a scion onto a hardy rootstock, growers can produce clones that are identical to one another and to the parent plant.

Apple trees can also be propagated from softwood or semi-hardwood cuttings, and if you’re inexperienced with grafting you may want to experiment with cuttings without grafting onto sturdy rootstock of another variety.

You can take a cutting from a ‘Braeburn’ tree if you have access to one, and coax it to root. But this process can take up to six months, and the success rate is statistically low.

Enthusiastic home gardeners and urban farmers can perform their own grafting. But if you’re a novice, you’ll be better off purchasing young grafted specimens to transplant into your garden or home orchard.

‘Braeburn’ is commonly grafted onto dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock, while some nurseries also offer standard rootstock with this cultivar.

Dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks are desirable for home gardeners since they’ll stay within manageable size tolerances for pruning and harvest.

I don’t know about you, but I’m not interested in climbing more than a few ladder rungs to pick an apple!

Not all rootstocks are suited for growing conditions in every Zone. I advise you to do some research before deciding or take the recommendation of your local nursery and don’t sweat over it!

Transplanting

Before we get started, let’s talk about fungi. If you’ve read my other articles, you know I usually recommend incorporating mycorrhizal fungi when planting new fruit trees. If you’re new here, I’ll give you the scoop.

I like to place the handle of a shovel or a stick across the hole before backfilling to visualize the grade line against the trunk.

For bare roots, create a small mound in the bottom of the hole and spread the roots over the mound so they are angled out and slightly down.

In the case of potted trees, check the root ball. Loosen roots in specimens that are pot bound and trim any damaged roots.

Place the root ball in the hole. Ensure the roots are spread naturally and not twisted or tight in the hole.

Don’t plant too deep! Remember to check the graft line and adjust the height if necessary.

Backfill the hole around and on top of the roots, tamping down gently to ensure there are no air pockets. Give the little tree a good drink of water. I usually wait about 10 minutes and if the water is all absorbed, I water again.

Adding a layer of mulch is a good idea. Three to four inches thick is a standard recommendation. Avoid piling mulch against the trunk – leave a few inches of bare ground around the base.

This mulch will help conserve moisture and insulate young, delicate roots against extreme heat and freezing temperatures.

I usually stake my new trees for at least a full year until they’re more established.

Soil

No matter what you’re growing, it always begins with the soil. ‘Braeburn,’ like most apple trees, prefers organically rich, loamy soil with a pH level of 6.0 to 7.0. And you’ll need to ensure good drainage.

Because apples need full sun for best performance, choose an open site, free from large-canopy trees that could cast too much shade.

You can sneak by with average soil, but if the site is mostly heavy clay, this could cause drainage issues.

You want to avoid standing water, so in this case it’s wise to elevate your planting area or choose a different site altogether.

Climate Needs

Due to its geographic origin, this cultivar enjoys warm climates. ‘Braeburn’ is suited to Zones 4 to 10, and as mentioned, it does best in full sun.

But to achieve the highest fruit production, take note that this cultivar requires about 700 chill hours. That’s approximately a month of temperatures in the range of 32 to 45°F.

This means, if the temperature in your Zone never drops for long enough, you’ll have a gorgeous green and healthy specimen, but you might not reap a substantial yield from it.

In this case, search for a better suited apple variety for your own climate.

Irrigation

After planting, and while your ‘Braeburn’ is settling into its new home, ensure adequate irrigation. If it’s a particularly dry season, you will need to supplement with regular watering.

While ‘Braeburn’ apples become more drought tolerant once they’re acclimated to and established in their new home, remember this doesn’t mean they’re drought-resistant. To remain healthy and productive, this variety needs regular watering.

If you’re unsure if your tree needs water, feel the soil. Poke a finger two inches deep in the root zone and if it feels moist, skip watering. If it feels dry, water!

For a broader explanation and more specifics, visit our guide to watering apple trees to learn more.

Summers in my area, in Zone 5b, have been particularly hot and dry in the last few years, so I invested in a drip irrigation system. I have four fruit trees and a few dozen large fruit shrubs.

Although I’ve got swales incorporated into my landscape, that doesn’t help much if there isn’t any rain.

If you’ve got more than one or two fruit-producing plants in your own yard, consider setting up a hassle-free irrigation system of your own.

It’s not difficult, and in the long run, it’s worth the initial investment of time and money.

Fertilizing

It’s best to avoid fertilizer for your tree’s first year in the ground. Concentrate on making sure it’s receiving the right amount of water.

Once the ‘Braeburn’ is more established you can think about a fertilizing routine. The best time to fertilize is in the spring when you see new growth beginning to show.

And depending on flowering time, this pollination process must be coordinated.

Trees fall into different pollination groups, categorized by their flowering times, and certain varieties are paired together to ensure the timing is successful.

Pollination groups may range from 1 to 7 and ‘Braeburn’ falls into group 4, which means its flowers are not the first or last to open.

Planting a backup cross-pollinator is a good plan and strengthens your chances of successful fertilization. In short, consider giving your ‘Braeburn’ a friend for company.

But what to choose? Look for trees from groups 3, 4, or 5. Here are a few to consider:

• ‘Delicious’ (Group 4)
• ‘Gala’ (Group 4)
• ‘Granny Smith’ (3)
• ‘Honeycrisp’ (4)
• ‘Northern Spy’ (5)

Fruit trees can be finicky when it comes to pollination and sometimes further investigation is warranted. If you’ve got an apple tree that isn’t bearing fruit, this could be the reason.

See our guide to pollinating apple trees for more information.

Guilds

Speaking of pollination, I’ll give you my single biggest tip for a successful fruit harvest: tree guilds.

If you’re familiar with permaculture design and techniques, or the concept of food forests, you probably know about guilds. But if this is new to you, I highly suggest learning more.

Guilds are the keystone for the ecological success of sustainable food production according to a permaculture model, and urban dwellings can be the best places for it.

Within your own backyard, you have the opportunity to create your own little ecosystem complete with all the layers necessary for growing your own food.

I won’t go into great detail about guilds here. You can read our guide to permaculture tree guilds to learn more.

But in short, think of it as companion planting taken to the next level.

Bulbs like garlic, onions, and daffodils work well. Herbs such as mint, thyme, lemon balm, and dill are useful and attract pollinators.

Comfrey, rhubarb, and artichokes are also perfect additions. Try clover for a low-maintenance ground cover.

If you introduce species to attract pollinators, herbs, and other plant pals to your apple’s environment, it will be in happy horticulture heaven.

Growing Tips

• Plant in a location with full sun.
• Ensure organically-rich soil with good drainage.
• Monitor soil moisture and water regularly.
• Introduce companion plants and build a healthy guild.
• Consider the addition of a cross-pollinating partner.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning promotes health, invigorates tired specimens, and encourages new growth and fruit production. Pruning while the tree is dormant promotes a sturdy base, while trimming in the summer controls excessive seasonal growth.

When your ‘Braeburn’ is dormant, remove bottom branches positioned 24 to 36 inches from the ground, crossed and overlapping branches, deadwood, dense interior branches, double leaders, and any branches with narrow crotch angles.

During the growing season, prune branches to control size and shape, and remove suckers and water sprouts. After performing these pruning tasks, finish by thinning the fruit.

Thinning fruit protects branches from becoming overloaded with weight and encourages the remaining apples to grow larger. Do this before the apples are the size of a dime.

When thinning, start by leaving only one fruit per spur (the spur is the woody structure where the flowers were formed).

Depending on the distance between spurs, you may want to remove fruits from spurs in between each other, leaving some spurs without fruit. Aim for about six inches or more between fruits.

Read our comprehensive growing guide for details and instructions for pruning apple trees.

Aside from pruning, you should pay attention to what’s growing under your ‘Braeburn’ apple tree. Any vegetation that grows within a two- to three-foot radius around the base of your tree should be removed.

Because Braeburn browning disorder isn’t fully understood yet, studies are ongoing to help growers find better information and guidelines to prevent and treat it.

Until then, if you bite into an apple that is brown in the center, don’t panic! If it’s not too far gone, enjoy the outside. Unless it’s rotted and moldy, it won’t hurt you.

And consider sharing. On her small farm, my grandmother used to feed brown apples to her pigs. Animals love apples!

If the fruit’s beyond saving and you wouldn’t force it on your worst enemy, send it to the compost heap.

There’s no need to worry about potentially spreading disease since this physiological condition is not caused by any type of pathogen.

Harvesting and Storing

‘Braeburn’ apples are usually ready to harvest in October. The length of time to maturity can vary and will depend on your growing zone.

Read our guide to harvesting apples for an in-depth lesson.

‘Braeburn’ apples keep well after harvest in cool storage. Kept in a cold cellar, they’ll last about two to four months.

And in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator, they should remain delicious for up to one month. Our guide to storing apples dives deeper into the details if you’d like to learn more.

And remember: if they begin to go a bit soft, don’t toss them into the compost just yet!

There are plenty of creative ways to consume these beauties. Read on to learn about ways to process and enjoy them.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Finally, the juicy part! There’s nothing I love more than talking about food, especially when it’s a fruit as exceptional as this one.

‘Braeburn’ apples didn’t become popular just for being cute. They are delicious!

The flavor of ‘Braeburn’ is high impact with the perfect balance of sweet and tart in every crispy, crunchy bite – the ultimate snacking fruit.

Sliced in juicy chunks with a sliver of sharp cheddar or a smear of warm brie, it’s enough to satisfy any palate – from simple to sophisticated, at any age.

Pair this bite with a sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, or even a rosé for a tempting starter or highlight for a tasting party.

Find additional suggestions for planning a wine party on our sister site, Foodal.

The creamy golden flesh is aromatic with notes reminiscent of cinnamon and nutmeg, and when perfectly ripe it evokes hints of melon and pear.

It’s no wonder ‘Braeburn’ is favored for cider, use in baking, and making applesauce.

This variety is beyond versatile. It’s a good candidate for dehydrating and firm enough to keep its shape well when baked. You can even try juicing it!

Recipe ideas are endless for ‘Braeburn,’ but I’d like to share two creative versions of some well-known classics.

Easy homemade chunky applesauce offers a brilliantly simple take on an old-fashioned comfort food.

I think ‘Braeburn’ would absolutely shine here, leaning into the cinnamon and clove flavor profile like a champ. Find the recipe now on Foodal.

The next is a homage to my Swedish mother who certainly has a way with the beloved fruit of her ancestors.

Swedes sure do love their apples and they serve up desserts in all imaginable forms to prove it. I blame the Vikings for this obsession, but that’s a story for another time.

Sadly, I didn’t inherit my mom’s perfect pie crust gene, so I usually go for a crustless Swedish crumble known as smulpaj. But this fall I plan to try a fresh idea, this cinnamon apple tart cake that I also found on Foodal.

I mean, come on! Who can resist this? Part tart, part cake, with a rich and buttery cinnamon topping. Check it out!

Imagine a warm, generous slice topped with a creamy, melting scoop of real vanilla ice cream – you know, the kind where you can actually see the bits of vanilla bean? October can’t come fast enough!

If those recipes aren’t enough to convince you to grow your own ‘Braeburn’ apple trees, I don’t know what will.

It’s that time of year again! The much-anticipated listener question and answer episode. Carol and Danielle look forward to this special episode (sometimes TWO episodes) because it allows them to offer real-life advice for the plant and garden design issues that are troubling all of you out there in the podcast universe. This time, we got a slew of great questions via email and social media and we’re going to do our best to get through as many as possible. The inquiries included advice on planting under trees, attracting hummingbirds, and info about what garden tasks we’re tackling during the dog days of summer. Tune in to see if we fielded your question, or if someone else’s problem spot is something you can relate to.

Photos for Danielle’s Questions

Cardinal climber (Ipomoea × sloteri, annual)

Earlybird™ Red White columbine (Aquilegia ‘PAS1258484’, Zones 4-9)

Gatsby Gal® oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Brenhill’, Zones 5-9)

‘Perry’s Gold’ Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Perry’s Gold’, Zones 3–9)

‘Stoplights’ epimedium (Epimedium ‘Stoplights’, Zones 4-9)

‘Spanish Flare’ hellebore (Helleborus ‘Spanish Flare’, Zones 4-9)

 

Photos for Carol’s Questions

Forest planting in India using the Miyawaki method

Miyawaki forest 9 months after planting

Northern red oak (Quercis rubra, Zones 4-8)

Reminiscent® Pink rose (Rosa x ‘BOZFRA021’, Zones 4-8)

Deadheaded flowers in Kielian DeWitt’s Montana garden

Recently mulched section of Carol’s garden

Today we’ll run through some more fast book reviews from the 2022 reading list. 

A small, graphically interesting book with some quick ideas for simplifying your life.

More of an inspirational pair of autobiographies than a treatise on Minimalism. One good point I liked: Don’t ask what someone does for a living. Ask what he loves doing, as it’s a better measure of the individual. Of course, ultimate meaning doesn’t come from simplifying your life or even having great relationships – it comes from turning yourself over body and soul to Our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. However, Ryan and Joshua do have some good practical ideas.

A fascinating book of agricultural advice during the Roman Republic, written by the brilliant Cato. This book reminds me yet again how much I wish I had studied Latin harder in high school. I need to learn it properly so I can read classical texts in the original language instead of being stuck with translations.

This is the most accurate look at life in the Caribbean I have ever seen. It’s really spot-on. The main character is a neurotic, amoral Jewish man with issues, but if you can get past his rather unsavory life, the travails he undergoes while trying to reinvent himself as a resort owner in the Caribbean are so true-to-life if you’ve lived there that it gave me flashbacks. Very funny story as well, with tragedy mixed in.

The most in-depth guide to fermentation methods ever created. It is a treasure trove of useful information, despite Katz’ sometimes solipsistic wanderings. A must-have for anyone interested in live culture foods.

Highly amusing novel with some very memorable scenes. Truly an excellent story, with some laugh-out-loud moments.

Despite the SJW-style apology at the beginning for calling people who work in the woods “woodsmen,” the book has some fascinating ideas and covers a great deal of history and practice. An excellent resource with only a touch of cringe.

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