Category: Home & Garden

Adding shade cloth to a hot summer garden is easier than you think. This is how we added shade cloth to our Arizona garden this year.

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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In March 2020, we expanded our garden, adding six raised beds and a row of arched trellises. One of the best parts of this new garden area is that it receives full sun. That is why I expanded the garden into this part of the yard. I’m amazed at how quickly things grow. 

However, I decided to add some temporary shade to the new garden area because the sun can be too much during the hottest months of the year. 

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When should you add shade to your garden?

Most vegetables are stressed when temperatures are above 90℉ (32.2°C). Shade keeps the direct sun off foliage; the shaded area can be about 10℉ (6°C) cooler than areas without shade. I like to put shade up once temperatures are consistently above 90℉ (32.2°C).

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When should you take the shade cloth down?

Likewise, I’ll take it down when temperatures are consistently below 90℉ (32.2°C) in the fall. When you remove the shade cloth, label each corner (NW, NE, SW, SE) and store it indoors until needed the following year.

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How We Added Shade Cloth to Our Full-Sun Garden: 

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1. Install pole supports

The first step was to install two additional pole supports. I already had two ten-foot-tall (3.05 m) poles in place for the lighting in my garden. They were put in place at the same time as my arched trellises by Jordan from Two Brothers Metal Works. 

The 12-foot-tall (3.6m) steel poles are buried 2 feet (61cm) deep and cemented in place. There is also a hook welded onto the end of each pole. 

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2. Install wire supports before adding shade cloth to a hot summer garden

Once the supports were in place, it was time to provide center support for the shade cloth to prevent sagging. 

I used ⅛” stainless steel wire rope and created loops with aluminum crimping loop sleeves using this crimping tool.

Next, we attached the loops to the carabiners and put the cables on steel poles. (Depending on the length of the wire, you could also attach the looped wire to the pole without a clip.)

We added the lightweight support cables from corner to corner, creating an “X” pattern on which the shade cloth could rest. 

This type of support is recommended for 100 square feet or larger areas. (FYI, the size of my shade cloth is 17′ x 20′ (5.18m x 6.09m) or 320 square feet (27.72 m²).

For shade cloth with an area over 400 square feet (37.16 m²), additional support (more than the crossed wires) may be required.

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3. Order shade cloth

Once the supports were in place, we measured the distance from each support to know what size shade cloth to order. Shade cloth comes in preset sizes on Amazon and ships pretty quickly. Grower’s Solution sells custom sizes of shade cloth but it takes longer to ship.

I chose white 50% shade cloth. Here’s why: 

• Reduced heat build-up because it reflects the sunlight.
• Diffused light under the shade cloth (less harsh shadows and glare).
• Increased light quantity and duration for flowering plants than darker types of shade cloth.

Shade cloth comes in different coverages. However, using a percentage of no more than 40-60% shade cloth is recommended for vegetables during the summer. 

• 40% shade cloth for most vegetables.
• 50% shade cloth for tomatoes.
• 60-70% shade cloth for succulents & other light-sensitive plants.

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4. Install shade cloth

We used a ladder to get shade cloth up and over the wire supports. Then, we clipped a carabiner through the grommet on the shade cloth and onto the pole support.

It will be easy to take down at the end of the season or if a severe wind storm is expected. The shade cloth should last for several years. 

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What we learned about adding shade cloth to a hot summer garden: 

• Measure twice and then measure again. I eyeballed some of the support wire rather than measuring and ended up having to loop and add more wire. 
• It’s possible to do this alone (depending on the size), but having another person makes it easier to measure accurately and attach the shade cloth. 
• Although we had high wind and rain during the monsoon season, the shade cloth held up fine and remained attached.

Are you looking for more information about adding shade and the principles to remember when adding shade? Read this article about “How to Create Shade in the Garden” or watch this video:

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Low Desert Arizona garden in September

What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in September? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona. 

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

September! We’ve almost made it through the long hot summer. The good news – lots to plant this month in the garden. The bad news – the days are still hot. Even so, the mornings and evenings are beginning to cool off, reminding us why we love to live in Arizona!

Gardening in Arizona means there is something to plant or harvest year-round. Most vegetables can be grown in Arizona if they are planted at the right time, and for many vegetables, September is the right time. Prepare your Arizona garden in September for fall planting by amending it with compost and organic fertilizer.

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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Pests in the low desert Arizona garden in September

Unfortunately, the slightly cooler temperatures of September are inviting for pests. It is important to make efforts to prevent pests organically, but not all pests can be prevented. Be on the lookout this month for infestations in the garden. Read this article for organic pest control that really works. 

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Prune out large infestations, and spray off with water. Spray plants off with water regularly to prevent future infestations.

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If you decide to treat, here are a few choices: spray off with water or use BT. When the weather cools a bit, the caterpillars will have moved on. Prune severely infected branches. 

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What’s growing in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

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Which flowers are growing in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

September is a time of change in the annual flower bed. Clear out summer blooming annuals and amend beds well with compost. Once daytime temps are consistently below 100℉ (37.8°C) and nights cool down below 80°F (26.7°C) plant cool-season annuals from seed and transplants. Water newly-planted annuals each day until they show new growth and are established. 

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What’s happening with fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

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Fruit stores best on the tree. The longer the fruit stays on the tree, the sweeter the fruit becomes. Fruit will not ripen once picked. Ripe citrus fruit can be left on the tree for up to 6 months, depending on the variety.

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Want to learn more about growing pomegranates? This article will help. 

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What’s happening with herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

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Arizona low desert garden in September to-do list:

• Prune summer-damaged perennial herbs back by about 1/3.
• Do not prune fruit trees this month. 
• Fertilize citrus trees, if you didn’t do it in late August. Water citrus deeply this month, before and after fertilizing. Skip fertilizing grapefruit this time, they require less fertilizer than other types of citrus trees.
• Once daytime temperatures are consistently below 90℉ remove shade cloth (if using).
• Check your watering system, and fix any leaks. I use the watering grids from Garden in Minutes. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100
• When daytime temperatures are below 100℉, begin to adjust the time between watering citrus and other fruit trees to around twice a month. Water deeply but not as often as in the summer months. 
• Clear out summer-blooming annuals and make room for cool-season flowers and annuals.
• Save seeds from zinnias and other summer flowers and vegetables.
• Find seed potatoes and begin the process of “chitting” them, so they will be ready to plant late this month or October. Learn more about how to grow potatoes in this article. 
• Order garlic so you are ready to plant it in October. Store it in the fridge until it’s time to plant. 
• Begin fertilizing roses again this month. Keep up with watering every few days until temperatures cool in October. Once temperatures are below 100℉, prune roses lightly to remove dead or diseased canes.
• Plant spring-flowering perennials this month.
• Plan your wildflower & winter flower garden.
• Refresh in-bed vermicomposting bins or start new bins when nighttime temperatures are consistently below 85°F.

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What to plant in the low desert of Arizona in September

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Before planting:

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Vegetables, herbs & fruit to plant in the low desert in September:

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

After September 15 (or when nighttime temps begin to drop)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

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Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors in September

(Click the link for seed sources.)

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Flowers to plant in the low desert Arizona garden in September:

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

After September 15 (or when nighttime temps begin to drop)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

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Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in September

(Click the link for seed sources.)

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Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar is available in my shop

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Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers

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If you would like to learn more and you’re interested in cultivating these lovely flowers, visit our guide to growing canna lilies.

In this guide, we will discuss how to lift, cure, and store these beauties, with emphasis on those growing in Zones 7 and below.

Let’s get to it!

Reasons for Digging Up Canna Lilies

Digging up these rhizomes serves various purposes, including managing overcrowding, promoting healthier growth, and providing winter protection.

Over time, they multiply and spread, leading to overcrowding. By digging up the plants, you can separate the rhizomes, creating more space and enhancing the overall aesthetics, keeping plants from appearing dense and tangled, and making them more visually pleasing.

Dividing also ensures continued vitality and blooming, rejuvenating the plants and allowing for relocation or sharing.

As USDA Hardiness Zones 7 and below experience cold winters, digging them up in the fall and storing the rhizomes indoors protects them from freezing temperatures, ensuring their survival for the next growing season.

Properly stored, these rhizomes can be replanted when the risk of frost has passed in spring.

For gardeners in Zones 8 to 11, they can be left undisturbed in the ground during the dormant period. This allows the rhizomes to remain in their natural habitat, ready to sprout anew when the growing season returns with no risk of succumbing to the winter cold.

Curing and storing the rhizomes after lifting is not necessary if you are immediately dividing them for replanting in warmer locations.

How to Lift Canna Lilies

If you want to protect your in-ground rhizomes for the duration of cold winters, you should dig them up in the fall and bring them inside.

While you may have enjoyed their company during the summertime, no worries! You’ll have them back in no time by following a few simple steps.

When the leaves have yellowed or died back, it’s the perfect time to act. Alternatively, you can wait until they have been killed by frost just before the ground freezes.

Leaving them until then provides the longest possible growing season and gives them time to continue to photosynthesize and store food reserves within the rootstock for next year.

To overwinter these flowers by lifting the rhizomes for storage, follow these simple steps:

• Cut Back: Trim the dead foliage, leaving only about 3-6 inches above the rhizomes.
• Dig: Carefully use a shovel or spade to dig down 4-6 inches deep and approximately 6-8 inches around the outside of the clump.
• Continue Digging: Cut all around the clump, loosening the soil to facilitate lifting.
• Lift: Gently lift the clumps out of the ground, shaking off any excess soil.
• Rinse: Rinse them to remove dirt, preparing them for curing and storage.

After rinsing, check the rhizomes and discard any that show signs of disease or rotting.

Canna lilies don’t always require division before overwintering. If the rhizomes are clumped, you can wait until spring when it’s time to replant, and then consider dividing them.

That said, you also have the flexibility to divide them right after lifting, although this step isn’t obligatory.

When dividing them for replanting, try to ensure that there are three to five eyes on each rhizome.

Curing

After digging up the rhizomes, they should be allowed to air dry in a well-ventilated area. The recommended temperature for drying is around 41 to 50°F.

This drying period usually takes no more than one week. During this time, excess moisture evaporates, reducing the risk of rot and other types of fungal disease during storage.

You don’t want the rhizomes to shrivel or become excessively dry. If you notice that they have started to wrinkle or shrink, you can remedy this by gently submerging them in water or spraying them with water.

Once they have dried, remove any remaining foliage. Removing the foliage helps prevent the growth of mold or other pathogens on the rhizomes.

By following these steps, you can prepare them for storage and improve their chances of remaining healthy during the storage period.

Storing

Here are the key points for storing canna lily rhizomes:

• Storage Location: Store them in a cool, dark place with about 50% humidity and suitable ventilation. Ideal location options include fruit cellars and cool basements. Avoid temperatures below 40°F or above 70°F. The ideal temperature range is 40 to 55°F.
• Avoid Freezing: Do not store in attics or garages where freezing temperatures may occur.
• Regular Check-Ups: Check on the stored rhizomes periodically throughout the winter.
• Discard Damaged Rhizomes: Remove and discard any that appear shriveled, diseased, or infested by insects.

Adding a layer of peat moss, coconut coir, sand, vermiculite, or sawdust underneath the bulbs helps maintain a suitable level of moisture. It provides a stable and slightly humid environment for the bulbs, preventing excessive drying out or excessive moisture accumulation.

Consider using breathable containers such as paper bags, cardboard boxes filled with shredded paper, or mesh bags to store the rhizomes. These containers allow for ample air circulation, reducing the risk of excess moisture and potential rot.

Bulbs should be stored in a cool environment to maintain their quality and prevent premature sprouting.

Higher temperatures can trigger premature growth and reduce the bulbs’ energy reserves, leading to weaker plants when they are eventually planted.

Storing bulbs in a cool place helps maintain dormancy and preserves their energy for the upcoming growing season.

When storing them, it’s a good practice to label each rhizome or group of them with their respective variety or color. This will help you easily identify and differentiate them when it’s time to replant.

Replanting

In the spring, when the frosty grip of winter has loosened its hold and the weather begins to warm with nighttime temperatures staying above 50°F, it’s the perfect time to bring your rhizomes back to life.

Start by selecting a well-drained and sunny location in your garden. Prepare the soil by loosening it to a depth of four to six inches, placing the rhizomes horizontally in the soil, burying them at a depth of four to six inches below the surface, spacing 12 inches to three feet apart.

Position them with the eyes (bud-like growth points) facing upwards. Cover them gently with soil, patting it down lightly to secure them in place. Water the newly planted rhizomes thoroughly to provide them with the moisture they need to initiate growth.

Moving into a new rental unit is like working with a blank canvas, only there are rules! You can’t do whatever you want since the place doesn’t belong to you. But still, you want to make it feel like home. Here are some apartment decor ideas that will brighten up those beige or millennial gray walls!

Before moving into my new house, I lived in a rental unit for just under a year. I had sold my house of over ten years, and there wasn’t anything on the market yet that was the perfect match for Kiddo and me. So I ended up moving into a rental for the time being.

As a brand new build, everything was clean and modern. And to be honest, I had a hard time with it! I saw all the millennial gray walls and white everywhere, and I asked myself, how do you style a boring apartment?

I got to work adding in plenty of colour and plants, and the space turned around completely—the contrast between the stark before and the sparkling after was big. People would come in and comment about how much they loved the space.

It can be difficult to make a rental feel like home. Especially ones that follow this new trend of being all sleek and monochrome.

Now that I’m in my new house, I thought I would give you a little tour of my rental and how I made it feel more homey with these apartment decorating ideas.

This post will cover…

10 Apartment-Friendly Decorating Ideas

Plants

You know my first suggestion is going to be to add plenty of plants! The easiest way to breathe like into a rental apartment with millennial gray walls is to, well, add life. You can add a collection of plants in groupings, hanging plants, or large focal plants.

Check out my guide on how to arrange plants in the living room. But you can add them to any room, including the bathroom and hallways.

Dried Flowers

If you don’t have a green thumb, I recommend adding some dried flowers for apartment decor. They’re long-lasting displays of colour. They can have different feels, from rustic to chic, depending on what flowers you include.

I even use dried allium seed heads on their own. You can find such unique shapes by drying flowers and foliage from your own garden.

Books

Books are another great renter-friendly decor. Of course, I have many of my own books scattered throughout the place. And they’re very colourful and bright!

But my favourite thing to do is to stack them. From sitting on my nightstand to holding up my computer monitor, I use many books!

If you aren’t a reader, you can still decorate with books. I encourage you to go to the thrift store and pick out books solely based on how colourful and pretty the covers and spines are.

Rugs

When you have millennial gray walls and light-coloured floors, it can quickly look dull from top to bottom. Don’t forget to cozy up the floor too. Placing a rug can very quickly make a room feel more homey. You can instantly add tons of colour or a pattern to liven up a space.

Artwork

Hang stuff on the walls. It’s always one of the last things to get done when you move and can quickly get forgotten about. But it makes a world of difference!

I used command strips since they were advertised as renter-friendly. Personally, they still damaged my walls, but I know that they have worked for other people.

The other thing I did was lean artwork against the wall. This works for larger artwork, and it still creates a visual impact.

Interesting Lighting

Lighting is the perfect renter-friendly decor because it’s so low commitment but really sets the mood. I encourage you to ignore those built-in pot lights and try to use lamps in the living room and bedroom. They create warmer, diffused light that feels more calming.

Also, add interesting lighting to spice things up. I put in a really funky lava lamp and LED strip lighting. The LED strip can be controlled with a remote and turn any colour. It’s great for creating themes around the holidays.

Colourful Fabrics

Fabric can be one of the best apartment decor options because it’s something you’ll get anyway, so you might as well be intentional with what you pick! I always choose colourful and fun throw pillows for the couch and the bed. Also, add in comfy blankets and throws that make the living room feel more welcoming.

I even will add folded up linen as a way to add texture beneath items.

Vases

Whether you leave them empty or fill them with dried flowers, vases alone are a great apartment decor idea. Grab them in different sizes, colours, and shapes. The more variety, the better!

You can find great vases at the thrift store. That’s how you collect the unique and pretty vases you can’t get at the store.

I even put a vase in the bathroom! It was the perfect home for my marimo moss balls.

Different Textures

I always like to remind people that when decorating a space, you want to include different textures. This means you want natural elements, like plants or wood, along with smooth finishes, like glass or concrete. Add different shapes, from rounded corners to pointy ends. Each will give distinct feelings.

If you add a little bit of something from everything on this list, you’ll automatically add plenty of different textures.

Unique Touches of You!

Don’t forget to showcase your personality when looking for apartment decor. For kiddo and I, one of our standout pieces was someone we call King Froggerson. He’s a painting we bought off of Facebook Marketplace. Once we saw it, we knew we instantly needed to have it. It fits the colours and the quirky home vibe.

You’ll find touches of my style all throughout the home, from a brass watering can to trinkets I’ve collected over the years. It is what truly makes my house feel homey!

Frequently Asked Questions About Apartment Decor

How do you bring life to a rental apartment? Let me know in the comments below.

More Tips for Decorating

So the guy picking the pictures for your articles doesn’t do something stupid.

Can you spot the mistake?

Using common names can lead to serious identification problems, as common names vary from place to place.

What one person calls a “huckleberry” may not be the same plant as what another person calls a “huckleberry.”

Down in Grenada there were all kinds of strange names for plants. Trying to get a proper ID was often quite difficult or even impossible, as you couldn’t Google search a local name and find a Latin name, then look that up to see if you could find pictures of the appropriate plant.

Multiple trees were called “crab food,” which we discovered meant that they made fruit which was unpalatable to humans.

What we call “popcorn tree” in the Alabama is called “Chinese tallow tree” elsewhere.

And what we called “cogon grass” in Ocala is usually called “Jap grass” in Bay Minette.

Latin names are really useful. They give us an anchor in a sea of colloquial titles.

(Heck, I like Latin so much, I now attend the Latin Mass.)

PSA: If you’re going to write an article on plants and don’t know that Latin name for a species, please check with an expert before buying your stock photos.

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Losing a loved one is an experience that touches us at the core of our being. In times of grief, finding consolation can be challenging, yet nature and poetry have a unique way of offering comfort.

In this article, we’ll explore the intertwining of poetry and nature, guiding you to find the best garden funeral poems that offer solace and remembrance.

The healing embrace of nature

Nature has an innate ability to heal and soothe. The gentle rustle of leaves, the melodious song of birds, and the vibrant hues of flowers can create a sense of tranquillity that eases the burden of grief.

Stepping into a garden can be like entering a sanctuary of calm, where the beauty of the natural world reminds us of the cycle of life and the enduring spirit of our loved ones.

Garden funeral poems: a tribute beyond words

Poetry has always allowed humans to express complex emotions when words fall short. Garden funeral poems encapsulate the essence of life, death, and the profound connection we share with the departed.

Just as each flower in a garden has its unique beauty, each poem carries its message of love, loss, and hope.

Exploring nature for poetic inspiration

Nature’s wonders have inspired poets for centuries. From the romantic verses of Wordsworth to the contemplative reflections of Mary Oliver, the natural world has been a wellspring of creative expression.

Take a leisurely walk in a park, a forest, or a shoreline. Observe delicate flower petals, an oak tree’s steadfastness, or the ocean’s endless horizon. Let these experiences stir your thoughts and emotions, laying the foundation for the garden funeral poem that resonates with your feelings.

Crafting your own garden funeral poem

Writing your own garden funeral poem can be a deeply personal process. You can allow your memories, emotions, and love for the departed to guide your words.

Start by describing the elements of nature that bring comfort, or remind you of your loved one. Maybe it’s a specific flower they cherished, or the feeling of the sun on your skin. Build upon these sensory experiences, infusing them with personal memories and emotions.

Seeking wisdom from existing poetry

If writing your own poem isn’t for you, countless poets have walked this path before you.

Take some time to explore classic and contemporary poems that touch upon themes of life, death and the interconnectedness of all things. Look for lines that resonate with your emotions, and consider incorporating them into your garden funeral poem.

Finding inspiration in cultural traditions

Different cultures have unique ways of honouring the deceased through poetry and nature. Japanese Haiku, for instance, captures fleeting moments in nature, echoing the transient nature of life itself.

You could look to these cultural traditions for inspiration.

A lasting tribute to nature

Once you’ve found or crafted the perfect garden funeral poem, consider ways to honour your loved one’s memory in a natural setting.

For example, you could create a memorial full of their favourite flowers, where the poem can be prominently displayed. This living tribute celebrates their life, and serves as a place of solace for you and others who wish to remember and pay their respects.

Embracing healing and hope

The beauty of a garden funeral poem lies in its ability to capture the essence of a person’s life, encapsulating their spirit in verses that endure through time.

As you explore the healing power of nature and poetry, you embark on a journey of remembrance, honouring those who have touched your life and finding hope in the serenity of the natural world.

Selecting the perfect garden funeral poem: factors to consider

Choosing a garden funeral poem is a deeply personal and meaningful task. It’s an opportunity to pay tribute to a loved one’s life, and create a lasting memory for those who gather to remember them.

Here are several important factors to consider as you seek out the perfect poem to honour your departed loved one:

1. Personality and interests of the departed

Reflect the personality, hobbies, and passions of the person you’re memorialising. Did they have a favourite flower, animal, or place in nature? Were they avid gardeners, hikers, or lovers of the outdoors? A poem that aligns with their interests and characteristics can evoke a sense of familiarity and closeness.

2. Beliefs and spirituality

Consider the spiritual or religious beliefs of the departed and your family. Different poems may resonate more profoundly depending on whether the individual held strong religious convictions, had spiritual inclinations, or embraced a more secular outlook. Choosing a poem that reflects their worldview can provide a sense of comfort and connection.

3. Shared memories and experiences

A poem that references shared memories and experiences can be incredibly moving. Think about moments you shared with the departed, such as family holidays, gatherings, conversations, or everyday occurrences. If there’s a poem that captures the essence of these moments, it can serve as a touching tribute that brings back cherished memories.

4. Emotional resonance

As you read different garden funeral poems, pay attention to your emotional reactions. Does a particular poem evoke feelings of comfort, nostalgia, or even a sense of joy? A poem that resonates deeply with your emotions can serve as a channel to express your feelings and find solace.

5. Length and tone

Consider the length and tone of the poem. Some individuals may prefer shorter, succinct poems that convey a powerful message, while others might appreciate a longer poem that delves into more intricate emotions. Additionally, the poem’s tone should align with the atmosphere you want to create: reflective, uplifting, or a combination of both.

6. Cultural and ethnic influences

If the departed had strong ties to a specific culture or ethnicity, exploring poems from that cultural background can provide a meaningful connection. Certain poems might carry traditional themes, symbolism, or language that resonate deeply within their heritage context.

7. Universal themes

Universal themes like love, memory, and the beauty of life and nature can transcend individual differences and touch the hearts of all who gather to remember the departed. Consider poems that capture these timeless themes, creating a shared connection and understanding.

8. Personal connection to the poem

Your connection to the poem matters, too. Does the poem reflect your emotions and thoughts about the departed? Does it align with the message you want to convey to others attending the service? Your connection to the poem will shine through and make the tribute more authentic.

9. Read and reflect

Take your time reading various poems. Reflect on their meanings, implications, and how they make you feel. It’s perfectly okay to take breaks and return to the poems later with fresh eyes and a clearer mind.

10. Seek input from loved ones

If appropriate, involve other family members and close friends in the selection process. They might have insights and perspectives that can guide you towards a poem that resonates with a broader range of attendees.

Ultimately, the perfect garden funeral poem captures the essence of your loved one’s life, conveys your emotions, and speaks to the hearts of all who gather to remember them. It’s a beautiful opportunity to bridge the gap between the living and the departed, finding solace in the power of words and the beauty of nature.

South Africa’s native arum lilies are known as calla lilies in the United States, where they are an expensive cut flower and a garden ornamental. But in their homeland, in the Southern Hemisphere’s winter and spring, it is possible to wallow in them, for free. In late August, at the end of an exceptionally wet Cape Town winter, the wallowing is literal: Mud and water are not in short supply.

And arum lilies are everywhere.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

This September, the city is five years out from its history-making drought. Day Zero—a doomsday-like countdown to the end of Cape Town’s water supply—loomed. Now, as cold fronts from the southern Atlantic arrive in sheets of rain and wind at the southern tip of Africa, water is abundant. Growing in, or near, seasonal streams and marshes, are arum lilies, like flocks of long-necked white water birds visiting the wetlands that burgeon as the rain of months accumulates before seeping into the Table Mountain Group aquifer, or running out to sea.

The common white arum is Zantedeschia aethiopica, one of eight Zantedeschia species. In South Africa it is not confined to winter rainfall regions like the Western Cape Province, but grows happily in colder, drier climates, as long as plentiful summer rain feeds the plants after they break winter dormancy.

For American gardeners interested in growing them, arums (callas, if you prefer) are hardy to USDA zone 8, at least. In Southern California, and especially in New Zealand and Western Australia (where they were banned for sale in 2006), they have become invasive.

Spring in South Africa is usually associated with the magical, ephemeral eruption of wildflower carpets along the summer-dry West Coast and semi-desert hinterland of the Northern Cape Province. But it’s worth noticing and appreciating the sumptuous presence of ubiquitous arums before their natural wetland habitats are lost to development in their native range.

Cooked young arum leaves, stems, and tubers were a traditional food in parts of South Africa. Wild colonies (as well as garden-grown arums) are relished by porcupines, who skip the cooking part and devour the tubers raw. Raw, the plant can be mildly toxic to humans (as I can attest: On a teenage dare, I ate an entire yellow spadix of an arum lily. My tongue reacted by swelling up. The cause? Raphides: The needle-shaped crystals of calcium oxalate. I survived).

Today’s photos are from Connie Raines.

My garden is in Griffin, Georgia, one hour outside of Atlanta.

Many of my plants were relocated from my garden in Decatur, which is a city 15 minutes from Atlanta. I had a garden there for 36 years and dug up and transplanted two large truckloads of plants a little over two years ago. Almost everything survived and is thriving, even a 42-year-old azalea plant that was given to me in a small pot as a gift.

Very large, very old azaleas (Rhododendron hybrids, Zones 5–9) fill the space with spring color.

These love lies bleeding (Amaranthus caudatus, annual) were planted from heirloom seeds. Something ate the leaves, but the plant survived and flowered.

The meadow was planted in back of the property, where a pine tree was cut down and the ground was tilled. Here, Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carata, annual or biennial) blooms beautifully, with some purple flowers as well as the typical white.

Queen Anne’s lace stems make a simple, beautiful bouquet.

Look at these awesome large blackberries (Rubus hybrid, Zones 5–8)!

This morning glory (Ipomoea nil, annual) has delicate powder-blue flowers that shift to pink at their throat. Even better, this variety has white variegation on the leaves, so it provides beauty even in the afternoon when the flowers have faded.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

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To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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The Advantages of Expert Siding Establishment. Is it true or not that you are hoping to give your home’s outside a facelift? Provided that this is true, siding is an extraordinary method for improving your home’s look and feel while shielding it from the components.

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 In the event that you’re in the Cape Cod area of Massachusetts, you can discover the absolute best siding workers for hire to assist you with your venture. In this blog entry, we’ll examine how putting resources into siding can raise your check allure and why you ought to think about utilizing a siding project worker on Cape Cod. Is it true that you are hoping to refresh the outside of your home on Cape Cod? Provided that this is true, bless your lucky stars! Siding is an incredible method for expanding the check allure of your property and making it look fresh out of the box. Be that as it may, with such countless project workers, finding the right one for the gig can be troublesome. That is the reason we’re here to enlighten you regarding Cape Cod Siding – the main Cape Siding worker for hire with the experience, skill, and enthusiasm to take your home outside to a higher level like J Morse Construction

How Cape Cod Siding Can assist you with improving Your Home’s Appearance.

Cape Cod siding can essentially upgrade the presence of your home and give it a new, refreshed look. Whether you’re searching for a work of art an immortal look or a more current and smooth plan, there is an extensive variety of siding choices accessible that can supplement the style and design of your structure. From customary clapboard siding to sturdy and low-upkeep vinyl or fiber concrete siding, Cape Cod siding workers for hire can assist you with picking the ideal choice for your home. Furthermore, proficient establishment guarantees that the siding is appropriately introduced, giving a consistent and clean finish that will dazzle your clients and improve your home’s general appearance.

The Advantages of Expert Siding Establishment

Proficient siding establishment offers various advantages for your home. Right off the bat, experienced siding project workers have the information and aptitude to guarantee that the siding is appropriately introduced, limiting the gamble of any slip-ups or gives down the line. This guarantees that your siding will give ideal security and protection to your structure. Moreover, proficient establishment guarantees a consistent and cleaned wrap-up, improving the general appearance of your home. With their scrupulousness and utilization of particular devices, proficient siding workers for hire can guarantee that each part of the establishment is done accurately, saving you time and exertion over the long haul.

An Extensive variety of Siding Choices is Accessible for Your Home.

With respect to choices for your home, Cape Cod offers numerous decisions to suit any style or inclination. Whether you are inclined toward the exemplary look of clapboard siding or the sturdiness and low-upkeep advantages of vinyl or fiber concrete siding, there is an ideal choice for your home. Cape Cod siding project workers can assist you with exploring the different decisions and tracking down the best siding material and planning to supplement the engineering and stylish of your structure. With their skill and information, they can direct you through the determination interaction, guaranteeing that you pick the right siding choice that will upgrade the presence of your home and lift its control bid.

Support Tips to Keep You’re Siding Looking Perfect.

Legitimate upkeep is fundamental to guarantee that your siding stays in top condition and keeps on upgrading the presence of your home. Here are a few hints to keep your siding looking perfect:

1. Review your siding for any indications of harm or wear, like breaks, stripping, or staining. Address any issues expeditiously to forestall further harm.
2. Clean your siding something like once per year to eliminate soil, flotsam, jetsam, and buildup. Utilize a delicate fiber brush, gentle cleanser, and water to tenderly scour the siding. Keep away from brutal synthetic compounds or power washers, as they can harm the siding.
3. Trim any close by trees or plants that might come into contact with the siding. This will forestall scratches, harm, and dampness development.
4. Try not to put barbecues or other intensity sources near the siding, as they can cause staining or in any event, dissolving.
5. Assuming that you have vinyl siding, intermittently check for free or harmed boards and get or supplant them.

By following these support tips, you can guarantee that your siding stays in magnificent condition, upgrading the presence of your home and dragging out its life expectancy.

Tributes from Nearby Homes that have worked with Cape Cod Siding.

“Working with Cape Cod Siding was a flat-out joy. They were proficient and dependable, and their scrupulousness was outstanding. Our home required a facelift, and the siding they introduced totally changed the outside. We’ve gotten various client praises and couldn’t be more joyful with the outcomes. The group at Cape Cod Siding exceeded all expectations to guarantee that the venture was finished on time and inside the financial plan. We enthusiastically prescribe their administrations to any home hoping to upgrade their check allure and give their outside a new, refreshed look.” – Sarah, Nearby Retail location Proprietor.

Why Picking a Nearby Project Worker Matters for Your Home.

Picking a neighborhood worker for hire for your home’s siding venture can fundamentally influence the general result. Neighborhood project workers have a profound comprehension of the particular necessities and difficulties that accompany working in the Cape Cod region. They know all about the novel weather patterns, building guidelines, and engineering styles of the locale, permitting them to give fitted answers for your home. Besides, employing a neighborhood worker for hire upholds the nearby economy and reinforces the local area. By picking a neighborhood worker for hire, you can profit from their mastery, customized administration, and obligation to convey top-notch workmanship that will improve your home’s control allure and establish a long-term connection with clients.

So, we harvest pears when they’re mature and then allow them to slowly ripen off the tree.

Done right, the result is a sweet fruit that is unlike anything else. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

If you need a refresher on how to grow pears at home, check out our guide.

In this guide, we’re going to talk about some of the best winter pear options. Here’s the ones we’ll discuss:

If you aren’t sure what the difference is between a winter and a summer pear, please visit our guide, which explains it all.

Remember that these trees need a friend for pollination.

If you aren’t familiar with pear pollination, check out our full guide on the topic. We’ll tip you off to a few good pairing options, coming right up.

All of the cultivars on this list are suitable for Zones 4 to 9 unless noted otherwise.

First, we’ll start with the perennial fave:

1. Bosc

Let’s talk about the granddaddy of winter pears. Also sold under the name ‘Kaiser,’ ‘Bosc’ fruits are easily recognized by their hard, cinnamon-colored skin, long, tapered necks, and large, rounded bases.

They were first named in the early 1800s and have been cherished ever since.

They famously appear in paintings and photos because of their beautiful shape and color. But we aren’t growing them just to admire their admittedly fabulous form.

Right off the tree, it’s crisp and sweet, mellowing out as it softens in storage.

For a fruit with a pungent, classic pear flavor, ‘Concorde’ is one of the best. It has an incredible taste that makes this somewhat fussy tree worth growing.

‘Concorde’ is partially self-fertile, but you’ll get more fruit if you grow it with a friend. Something like ‘Bartlett’ or ‘Winter Nelis’ is ideal. This tree is only hardy down to Zone 5.

4. Conference

With its golden, speckled fruits, ‘Conference’ makes a pretty picture. It’s crisp and bright off the tree but mellows in storage, with spicy-sweet flesh.

This variety is better cooked while it is still a bit unripe because it becomes extremely soft and juicy when fully ripe.

Bred by noted nurseryman Thomas Rivers of Rivers Nursery in Hertfordshire, England, ‘Conference’ is resistant to disease and produces reliably, so long as it has a pollinator friend like ‘Winter Nelis’ or ‘D’Anjou.’

5. D’Anjou

‘D’Anjou’ are also called ‘Anjou’ and ‘Beurré d’Anjou’ after the city of Anjou in France, where they were discovered.

The beurré part of the name is the French word for butter, which describes the luscious texture of the ripened flesh.

There are two different ‘Anjou’ pears, and they only differ in color.

Pears can be challenging to harvest because it almost takes a sixth sense to know when they’re mature, so we’ll take all the help we can get, right?

This variety hails from Germany and arrived in the US around the early 1800s.

Underneath that speckled green and blush skin lies buttery flesh that has a mild, sweet flavor with a hint of spice.

It’s not quite as cold hardy as other trees and should be grown in Zones 5 and up.

7. Highland

Botanist Dr. George Oberle bred ‘Highland’ out of ‘Bartlett’ and ‘Comice’ in 1944.

It showed promise, and after years of testing at Cornell University, it was released on the market in 1974 and named after the location of Cornell’s Hudson Valley Lab in upstate New York.

The yellow skin wraps around smooth, sweet, juicy flesh, and the fruit stores for several months with no trouble.

This cultivar isn’t as common as some of the others on this list, but it’s an excellent option if you can find it, particularly if you prefer to eat your fruits fresh or want a killer dessert option.

Plant with a ‘Bartlett’ or a ‘D’Anjou.’

8. Magness

Dr. John R. Magness led the USDA’s pear and apple breeding programs for two decades starting in 1930.

This pear was named in his honor, and it’s a worthy homage. It was first introduced to the market in 1960 by the USDA, and it was created by breeding ‘Comice’ and ‘Seckel.’

The large, elongated fruit has a golden-yellow base with blush accents. The thick skin protects a perfumed, buttery skin that is perfectly sweet straight off the tree without storage.

You can also pick them just before they’re ripe and allow them to finish ripening in storage in the traditional way for winter pears.

This tree is exceptionally vigorous and disease-resistant, but only cold hardy to Zone 5.

Triploid trees are known for being productive and tough, but though this tree isn’t a triploid, it acts like one. Plant it with ‘Bartlett’ or ‘Comice’ and prepare for the harvest.

9. Orcas

If you don’t like any graininess in your pears, pick this one.

The pretty yellow and blush skin looks gorgeous, and the pungent, sweet, crisp flesh that mellows to a buttery texture lends itself both to fresh eating and cooking.

This tree hails from Orcas Island in Washington, where it was found by horticulturalist Joe Long in 1972.

After sending it to Mount Vernon to be tested, ‘Orcas’ hit the market in 1986 and became a big hit for growers in the Pacific Northwest thanks not only to its fantastic flavor, but for its impressive disease resistance as well.

It works well with ‘Bosc’ as a pollinator.

10. Rescue

Don’t try this pear unless you have enough room to add it to your yard. Once you taste it, you’ll be ruined for other varieties.

Before I moved to the pear growing capital of the US, the Pacific Northwest, I’d never seen or even heard of it.

I picked one up at the farmers market a few years ago, and it was love at first bite.

The fruits are large and look like a fall sunset with near-red at the bottom transitioning to orange, blush, and finally yellow. The tree itself is vigorous and disease resistant, particularly to the dreaded scab.

‘Rescue’ almost didn’t happen. As you might have guessed by the name, the original tree was “rescued” after a farm in Buckley, Washington, was sold to expand the local cemetery, and an eagle-eyed neighbor named Knox Nomura saved it.

He sent it to Mount Vernon for testing in 1975, and ‘Rescue’ hit the market in 1987.

The flavor is bright and sweet, with a perfect pear flavor in a crisp, juicy skin. It lends itself to both fresh eating and cooking.

Plant it with ‘Orcas’ and you’ll have a pretty incredible situation going on.

11. Taylor’s Gold

Have you ever seen those gold foil-wrapped pears that are gifted around the holidays? Well, this pear needs no foil to sparkle.

It’s not exactly clear if it’s a cross between ‘Bosc’ and ‘Comice’ or a sport of ‘Comie.’

Either way, ‘Taylor’s Gold’ was found in an orchard in New Zealand belonging to a grower named Michael King-Turner in 1986. By 1998, it had arrived in the US.

The fruits are huge with a short, thick neck and a big, round base.

The golden brown skin has a hint of blush that makes it practically glow. The flesh is sweet and juicy after a short ripening period in cold storage off the tree.

Pair it with ‘Winter Nelis’ or ‘Warren.’

Named for its grower, horticulturist and pomologist Jean-Charles de Nelis of Mechlin, Belgium, ‘Winter Nelis’ reached England in 1818 and North America in 1823. It’s suitable for Zones 5 through 9.

Pair ‘Winter Nelis’ with ‘Concorde’ for cross-pollination.

Tree Administration Knoxville is the smartest course of action for your finishing this spring. Since Nature has chosen to warm things up, proficient tree administration Knoxville from Mencer’s Tree Service can manage or eliminate the trees that have been giving you issues or are going to.

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That old oak that has been on your property for a long time might have filled its need. Nonetheless, except if you have it appropriately analyzed by an ensured arborist from Mencer’s Tree Service, you could turn out to be sorry when you discover that the tree might have been saved.

Having a tree appropriately analyzed before it is eliminated or treated is fundamental for the soundness of the tree, and your different trees. You need to ensure that there are no air-borne parasitic spores that can spread from a sick tree to a sound tree.

At the point when you plan an arrangement for tree administration in Knoxville the authorized experts will emerge to your property to evaluate what is going on. The confirmed arborist from Mencer’s Tree Service will test the tree to decide whether it tends to be saved, or on the other hand assuming that it needs to go. At the point when you contact the experts from the most reasonable tree administration in Knoxville, you can rely upon a legitimate and fair statement that will be the best answer for the tree.

Dissimilar to some tree administrations in Knoxville, Mencer’s Tree Service has been around for a really long time assisting people with simply loving you and concocting tree administration answers for your tree issues. In any case, Mencer’s can likewise keep your trees solid with appropriate upkeep.

Get some information about a month-to-month or semiannual tree administration in Knoxville. Having an expert tree administration emerge and check your finishing consistently will set aside your time and cash.

6 Things You Ought to Realize About Knoxville Tree Administration

Knoxville Tree Administration could be exactly what you need if your trees, brushes, and bushes have become a lot for you to deal with all alone. Notwithstanding, as per Mencer’s Tree Service in the Incomparable Smoky Mountains in East Tennessee, you ought to know a few things before you recruit simply any Knoxville Tree Administration.

Protection

Protection is fundamental, likewise with a help organization. Not all help organization approaches are something very similar. Ensure that the Knoxville Tree Administration organization you employ conveys legitimate risk. If anything ought to happen you need to ensure that the harm that was done to your property or your neighbors is covered.

Laborers Remuneration

As per Mencer’s Tree Service in Knoxville, you really must recruit a tree administration organization in Knoxville that has laborer’s comp protection. Assuming that somebody ought to get injured on your property, you would rather not be expected to take responsibility for the injury. While certain organizations might say it isn’t needed for a specific measure of workers, ensure you are secured in the event that a mishap occurs.

Hardware

You should ask the Knoxville Tree Administration organization that you are keen on recruiting about the hardware they use. Have them emerge and make a statement. You need to ensure that they have all that you really want. They might possess a stump processor, yet that wouldn’t significantly help you definitely assuming you really want the stump eliminated.

Representatives

Get some information about the group that works for the tree evacuation organization in Knoxville. On the off chance that their representatives don’t have the fundamental accreditations for tree evacuation, you need to move to the following organization on the rundown. An accomplished tree administration organization can actually hurt. Ensure that the tree administration organization that you employ is authorized also.

Wellbeing

The organization that you employ for tree evacuation or tree upkeep in Knoxville should consent to the severe guidelines of OSHA. You need to ensure that the representatives who work for the tree administration organization that you recruit are secure and safe.

References

Before you make all necessary endorsements for a Knoxville tree administration organization take care of business. Ensure that you read audits and ask the organization for references. Search for tasks finished that are like what you want achieved. On the off chance that the tree administration organization can’t supply them, call Mencer’s Tree Service.

Healthy, mature bulbs produce secondary “offset” bulbs which can be removed and repotted, providing you with new plants, and you can also propagate amaryllis by bulb sectioning, aka cuttage.

Ready to get started? Here’s what I’ll cover:

Though it is possible to grow amaryllis from seed, the process from seed to flower is slow, taking from three to five years.

If you have seeds, time, and want to learn more about how to do this, check out our guide here.

But if you don’t have that kind of patience, there are other options. Instead, you can easily propagate amaryllis by dividing offsets from mature parent bulbs and by sectioning.

While these methods are certainly quicker than starting from seed, new plants can still take a season or two to flower.

Another benefit of propagating from offsets or by division is that they will produce a clone of the parent plant.

When to Divide

The time to divide your plants all depends on the bloom cycle, which can vary based on Zone and your growing preferences.

When plants are grown outdoors, they naturally bloom in the spring, after a period of winter dormancy.

Some gardeners grow amaryllis indoors and many of us choose to force the plants to flower during the winter holidays.

Learn more about this forcing technique in our guide.

As a general rule, you will aim to divide after flowering, when the foliage has died back naturally and the plants are dormant.

It’s important not to cut off the leaves when the plant has finished flowering, as it needs the foliage to continue to create and store energy.

The ideal time to divide is towards the end of the dormancy period, just as you see new leaves start to appear.

Bulb sectioning can be done at any time after the foliage has died back and before the bulb breaks dormancy.

If you are growing plants outdoors in a warm location, the time to divide will typically be in late winter to early spring. For plants grown indoors, you can divide in early to late fall.

Dividing Offsets

Mature amaryllis bulbs often produce smaller side bulbs, called an offset or bulblet, which can be found situated just next to the “mother” bulb.

These offsets can be carefully detached from the main bulb, to create new flowers.

To divide offsets, lift the entire plant from the ground or the container it’s growing in, being careful not to damage the bulb or roots.

If you are growing outdoors, you can use a garden fork or spade to carefully loosen soil around the base of the plant.

Gently remove the soil from around the bulb and roots.

Next, locate bulblets that are at least one third of the size of the mother bulb and separate them by pulling them downwards or twisting carefully.

You can also use a sharp knife, scissors, or a screwdriver to gently pry them off. Each offset should have a few roots, and be careful to keep these intact.

Leave any smaller offsets attached to the main bulb so they can continue to grow.

Replant offsets immediately in pots at least two inches larger than the diameter of the bulblets.

Repot in potting soil leaving the top third of the offset visible above the soil line. Use a well balanced potting mix containing plenty of organic matter and peat, mixing in a little sand or perlite to improve drainage.

Replant the “mother” bulb in the same place, or repot into a slightly larger container, if desired. There should be a maximum of two inches of space between the bulb and the side of the container, so don’t choose one that’s too large!

Place the pot with the offsets in a sunny window and keep it indoors until the bulb has grown to at least two or three inches in diameter.

Water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. You should see new growth starting within a few weeks.

While some varieties will grow quickly and bloom the season after you have separated the offsets, others may take a couple of years to bloom.

If you are moving offsets outside, plant in a bed of well drained soil mixed with organic matter in a lightly shaded area.

Leave the top third exposed and keep the soil evenly moist until the plants have taken root and you see evidence of new growth.

Bulb Sectioning

This method involves making several vertical cuts through a mature bulb to create new plants. It’s also known as cuttage or twin scaling.

After it has finished flowering, dig up the established bulb and cut it vertically from the top to the base into four or more pieces, a bit like cutting a pie.

Make sure that each cut section has a portion of the stem tissue, or basal plate, attached at the bottom, and that each basal plate has at least two scales.

These “scales” should look similar to onion peels.

Dust the sections with a copper- or sulfur-based fungicide to prevent any fungal infections from taking hold on the new divisions.

You can plant each section in a four- to six-inch container filled with well draining potting soil, or a mixture of peat and sand or perlite. Be sure to plant it with the basal plate facing downwards.

Cover about two thirds of the way up with soil, leaving the top of the section exposed. Water well, and then maintain even moisture, but don’t let the soil become soggy or waterlogged.

In Zones 7 and colder, keep the pot indoors in a sunny windowsill through the winter.

Bulblets should begin to form between the scales in about a month or two, with leaves sprouting soon after, though you may still have to wait a couple of seasons for them to flower!

Whether this is your first year experiencing problems or you’ve been struggling with something every year, we’ll help you through it.

Here are the diseases we’re going to cover:

I don’t mean to make it sound like you will always face disease issues.

Once you know what conditions they thrive in and the tricks for avoiding them, garlic disease could mostly be a thing of the past in your garden.

Let’s get one of the worst issues out of the way first…

1. Basal Rot

Basal rot is nasty business. It’s the most serious threat to commercial garlic production in the world.

This is a disease caused by a fungus called Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. cepae. If it infects your garlic plants, it can cause yellowing foliage and dying leaves as well as rot below ground.

The tips of the leaves will turn yellow first, and then the disease will work its way down the rest of the leaf to the base.

That’s because the rot prevents water from moving from the roots to the foliage, so the parts that are furthest away die off first.

You know that hard, flat bit at the bottom of each clove that you usually cut off when chopping them up in the kitchen?

That’s part of the basal plate, the area on the plant where the cloves emerge from growing upwards, and the roots emerge from growing downwards.

This is the part of the garlic plant that suffers first when basal rot is present.

As it progresses, it turns the roots pink to black and may even move into the base of the cloves in the form of white or pink fungal spores.

What makes it worse is that it can continue to spread even after you harvest and store your garlic bulbs, which means they might look okay when you harvest them, but they eventually rot away while they’re waiting to be cooked.

The pathogen lives in the soil, and it can survive for decades even if a host isn’t present. I told you this was nasty stuff.

While the fungus can infect any allium, plants that are damaged either by insects or accidents while planting or weeding are more prone to infection.

It’s only active when temperatures are between about 59 and 90°F, so you don’t have to worry about it during the winter. But when the growing season starts, look out!

While the pathogen can survive in the soil, it will reduce in numbers over time if a host isn’t present. For that reason, it’s best to rotate your alliums out every three years.

In the meantime, don’t plant corn, tomatoes, sunflowers, black beans, cowpeas, or oats. These plants can act as alternate hosts.

If you find signs of this disease in your garden, store the harvested bulbs at 33 to 39°F to prevent it from spreading further.

When you’re out shopping, look for garlic cultivars that are advertised as resistant to fusarium or basal rot.

2. Botrytis Rot

As with most diseases on this list, botrytis rot can infect any type of allium, but only Botrytis porri in particular will infect garlic.

Generally, you won’t have a clue that anything is wrong until you harvest the garlic bulbs and discover dark brown or black fungal spores and soft spots on the bulbs or the neck of the plant.

If an infection is bad, you might see the outer leaves of the plant turn yellow and die.

Once you harvest, the disease can continue to develop and spread on the bulbs, so eat them right away without curing or store them immediately at temperatures below 41°F to stop the pathogen from spreading.

To prevent botrytis rot, avoid damaging the bulbs as they are growing in the garden since this creates wounds for the disease to enter through.

If you grow your garlic in rows, it might just be two or three plants next to each other that are showing symptoms.

Either way, you’ll see leaves that first turn a bit pale before turning yellow or brown. Left untreated, they will turn completely brown and die. In humid climates, you’ll even see white fuzz on the foliage.

Don’t assume the garlic bulb is safe from this disease just because it’s hiding below ground. It’s slowly rotting, turning watery and soggy.

The oomycetes need moisture and cool temperatures to reproduce and spread. That’s why you usually see downy mildew in spring or fall, or in winter in areas with temperate climates.

The most damage occurs when temperatures are between 43 and 61°F. Above 68°F the spread slows dramatically or even stops.

Since moisture is a crucial element in the success of these pathogens, you need to do what you can to control it.

Once a virus strikes, there isn’t anything you can do to cure it. It’s best to pull the infected garlic to prevent the disease from spreading to other plants, but you can leave them in place if you want.

If you aren’t certain whether a virus is infecting your plants, you can always send a sample to your local extension office. They can test the sample and let you know what you’re dealing with.

5. Purple Blotch

Are you picturing a disease that causes purple blotches on the leaves of your garlic plants? Nailed it! That’s what the fungus Alternaria porri causes.

It targets onions more often, but it will also infect garlic and leeks. This disease thrives in humid conditions when temperatures are between 75 and 85°F.

The pathogen favors older leaves, and purple blotches develop after the disease has progressed. Initially, you’ll see sunken, water-soaked spots that will turn brown with yellow halos before turning purple.

It can also infect the garlic bulbs underground, turning them reddish-purple before they rot completely.

Because the pathogen needs water to reproduce, increasing air circulation will help limit it.

That means providing appropriate spacing, watering at the soil level, and watering in the morning so any drops that spray the plants evaporate quickly.

There are resistant (not immune) cultivars, including all elephant garlics. If you see signs of the disease, treat the leaves with copper fungicide every three weeks.

7. White Rot

I’m going to just lay it all out. This disease is bad. Really bad.

White rot hasn’t become a huge problem in all parts of North America… yet. It’s rapidly spreading and exists in all states, but it’s worse in some areas than others.

The fungus that causes the disease, Stromatina cepivorum, can live in the soil for decades, even if there are no alliums planted there for it to infect.

When soil temperatures are between 50 to 75°F, this disease can move throughout the soil, infecting any allium it finds in its path.

The fungal pathogen can spread in water, soil, on equipment, or on plant material. Once a plant is infected, there is no cure and the plant will eventually die.

When a garlic plant is infected, the bulb will rot away, with white and black fungal growth appearing on the base and up into the cloves.

It will spread into the leaves, causing them to turn yellow and die back. Once you see symptoms on the upper parts of the plant, there’s not much you can do but pull the plants and dispose of them.

Since you can’t get rid of this disease, you need to avoid it. The first step is to buy disease-free seed or to dip clove seeds in 115°F water – use a spoon, not your fingers – to kill the pathogen. Don’t go any hotter because it might kill the garlic.

Always take care to clean your tools between uses, and don’t bring any plants or soil to your garden from areas that you know have been contaminated.

If your garlic is infected despite your best efforts, you can eat any asymptomatic bulbs. Toss out anything that shows symptoms in a sealed garbage bag.

Don’t plant any alliums in the same area unless you replace the top six inches of soil or solarize the soil to kill the pathogens.

I SAW NEWS of a new book called “Pressed Plants” recently, and it got me thinking about my grandmother and one of the many crafts she enjoyed way back when. Grandma made what she called “pressed-flower pictures,” bits of her garden that she carefully dried, arranged on fabric and framed under glass. And some of those still hang on my walls. It also got me thinking of the 500-year-old tradition of pressing plants for science and the herbarium world.

Whatever the intention, pressed plants are the subject I discussed with Linda Lipsen, author of the book “Pressed Plants: Making a Herbarium.” Linda presses specimens in the name of science as a curator at the University of British Columbia Herbarium in Vancouver. (Above, a mounted specimen of Lilium leichtlinii from the UBC Herbarium.)

She’s carrying on a method of recording the botanical world this way as humans have for centuries. We talked about what information those centuries of pressings hold for us in today’s world and how and why we gardeners might want to give pressing plants a try, whether for art or for science.

Plus: Comment in the box near the bottom of the page for a chance to win a copy of “Pressed Plants.”

Read along as you listen to the Aug. 28, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

pressing plants, with linda lipsen

 

 

Margaret: We’ve had fun. We did a “New York Times” garden column about this world of craft and science of pressing plants and what they mean to all of us in different ways. I’ve just been enjoying your book enjoying so much. It’s so practical and also gives all of the reasons behind it and some of the history, so it’s really fun.

Linda: Oh, thank you. That’s great.

Margaret: And so the backstory of my getting in touch with you recently to pester you and learn more [laughter] was that I have these pictures that my grandmother made 60 or so years ago on my wall [example below], and I’ve always known about “pressing flowers,” as she would call it. And then I know about herbariums because of my work all these years and wonderful places with all these archives and so forth of history, and I just want to learn more. And so I contacted you.

So what purposes do herbarium specimens serve? What do you learn from them and so forth? Because it’s this old tradition, as I said in the introduction, like 500 years people have been doing this. Yes?

Linda: Yes. So herbariums do have a long tradition, and a lot of it originally came from medicinals. So this was when the people who were taking care of the communities needed to be able to collect and make extracts for curing different ailments. And when they started to do this, they realized that trying to transfer that information to the next generation, or the next student, they would actually talk to them and say, “Oh, well why don’t you go out and go get that plant over there that’s got a blue flower and a green leaf that’s kind of shaped like this,” and that just really wasn’t enough. [Laughter.]

There’s too many things with blue flowers and this kind of shaped leaf. So to be able to make a specimen meant that you could actually really document what this plant really looked like, right? And all of its different stages, so not just in flowering, but also in fruit, because of course fruit becomes incredibly important for a lot of these medicinals. And so that was actually a really great way in which to start storing this information.

And then also what a lot of people don’t think about is many of these populations actually have different levels of extract. So even if all these plants are making these different chemicals that could be useful for us, different populations might have different constraints or strains on them because of predators. So they might make more of this extract. And so you actually start to get into populations with that kind of documentation. So it’s pretty astounding it’s been around for so long, but now it’s just opened up a wealth of information that I don’t even think the first person ever even dreamed of.

Because of course, nowadays in the modern age we can extract DNA, and so the level of extractions for plants and now out of a dried specimen, we can extract this DNA, it’s giving us more information than ever before.

Margaret: So I didn’t realize that the original impetus was medicinal; I didn’t know that. That’s really interesting. And you were just saying that for instance, different populations of plants might have more or less, because when herbivorous predators come to nibble on something, whether it’s an insect or an animal or whatever, I mean the plant has a self-defense that it mounts and it may make more, as you said. And that’s interesting because well, I just hadn’t thought about why that is one of the reasons behind…

Linda: The thing is I did population genetics, so of course I thought a lot about this. And being in the collection scene, the way people collect is always kind of fascinating, the way people collect certain populations and not others. And so yeah, medicinals were the beginning. It was the original doctors.

Margaret: So do you get calls or emails or whatever from other institutions that say, “Can we look at your specimen of such and such?” I mean, is there cross-comparison among institutions, because there’s all this history and some of these places are just massive. I mean, I’ve been to the one at New York Botanical Garden in the Bronx, and it’s like, whoa. I mean, I don’t know how many zillions of mounted specimens are in that collection.

Linda: Yeah, I think they’ve got a couple of million in their collection. It’s amazing. And we have cross-pollination; we have tons of cross-pollination. We exchange material all the time. So we have kind of two different systems we loan to anyone in the world. You just have to be at an institution. So I could even loan a specimen to you if you wanted to go to New York Botanical Garden to examine it, because it’s a safe environment.

I also do exchanges. So we actually collect and we want everybody in the world to see our cool stuff in our environment. And so we’ll collect extra species and we’ll send them off to different institutions if they want to have examples of what’s in our flora so that we can have comparables, right?

Because when you don’t have that exchange of information, you can get very isolated, and you can make mistakes, because you’re not really looking at the flora around the earth, you’re only looking at it in your region. And so to have those exchanges going on is incredibly important to keeping the information flow between researchers, but also artists, historians, again, whoever wants to access these collections, they’re open.

Margaret: Exciting. So in terms of what we can infer from it, and especially in such fast changing times as we’re in right now, I mean, you’re in British Columbia and I mean you’ve been experiencing a lot of drastic fires and all kinds of things going on, speaking of things that would change plant populations or their ranges potentially or who knows what impact. And I think it’s one of the things you’re interested in is the shifting ranges of plant populations.

Are you comparing to X-hundred-year-old specimens when you do new collections in some way to say, oh, this is what happened, or there’s this new invasive present that wasn’t here the last time someone collected here. Is that also done?

Linda: Yes, and it’s amazing because this is one of the things that I love about herbariums. So they are just time shots of earth over a long period of time. So they’re the timekeepers of our biodiversity on earth. And so we are able, depending on how much people collected and how good their notes were, we’re able to track. So I have a great example of John Davidson, who was our founder, and he made a little note about an invasive that’s in the Okanagan, which is a quite beautiful ecosystem here. It’s actually one of our only deserts in Canada. And he noted that there were three individuals in this area of the Okanagan. We now, because of that note, can map how much spread has happened over the last 120 years because of that note on the specimen, right?

Margaret: Wow.

Linda: Yeah, I know. And then we have things like, we are definitely shifting. We are losing tree line, so more species are going higher up in elevation. We also are having broader extensions. We’re also seeing loss of habitat where we know certain plants are not going to be able to make it because their habitats are actually disappearing. So we are, we always are going out and collecting and trying to add information.

And then on top of that, there’s crazy things that are in these collections, like we’re noticing flowering time changing. So we know that seasonality is changing, and that the plants are responding to that. And then also sizes of things. Things are either getting bigger or they’re getting smaller. And we’re able to see those fluctuations of morphology over time, which actually again can affect the health and the longevity of these plants and other species that we’re noticing this with.

Margaret: Wow. A lot, lot of inferences to be drawn. In your book “Pressed Plants,” I read about one example of a type of collecting, I guess a strategy or something called I think “first bloom, last bloom” records. And it made me, speaking of what you were just saying, about I guess it would be called the phenology or whatever, the timing of what’s happening when.

I mean, I’ve been in the same garden 35 or so years, and so I know there have been shifts instinctually, but I don’t have the data in all cases, unless I find old journals or something. And so when I read about that first bloom, last bloom record keeping… tell me about that.

Linda: So I love this one. So what a lot of people who I know who start getting into this, what you love and I think we all love is first bloom. Because when we see first bloom, we know spring is coming [laughter]. And so for me it’s always like, “Oh, first bloom, first bloom.” And for us it’s actually fairy bells. It’s a beautiful little shrub here, and I’m always waiting for the fairy bells to come out.

And so I’m always looking for first bloom. And I love what you said, Margaret, because I think a lot of us who’ve been gardening for a long time, we have seen these shifts. We feel them in our bones, we see them in our gardens, but yet we haven’t documented it. But there have been people who have been documenting this. And so they go out and they look for their first blooms, and we see that shift, whether it’s later or earlier. Some species are reacting to the climate change differently.

We’re also now doing even more detections; even if there’s an early frost in February, that can really affect again the development that’s going to happen later in the spring. And then what I really love is as we know, we get really hot now in June and July at this extreme level, sometimes August as well, but in the Pacific Northwest, we’re now going to start a cooling period and a lot of things will re-bloom.

And I think people forget that, that there’s these re-blooms that happen once it cools off and we get water again. And that’s been a fascinating thing to see how long that will stretch out and what’s the last bloom you see of the season. And that can really give us these… Scientists need these extremes so that we can start to do the statistics of when are things really blooming and what are these shifts really happening? And we’re seeing it all the time. And it’s really lovely when people document these kinds of things, either in notebooks, people have floras, and they document first bloom, last bloom in there, and over time they’ve seen these shifts of the dates to earlier.

Margaret: So the book is kind of a how-to guide to pressing plants. And it also gives, as I said earlier, some of the why behind it and some of the history. And when we did the time story together, we also talked to a woman with a craft-based business. She presses things and makes artworks of bridal bouquets and other memorabilia kind of things, sentimental things for people, memory keeping. Lacie Porta is her name, of Framed Florals in Brooklyn. [A finished artwork between glass by Lacie Porta, above.]

And so I was thinking about your process and your book, and her process, and my grandmother’s process. You all have a wooden press, and it was always filled with lots of layers of absorbent kinds of paper [laughter], but there are some differences as well. So I want to talk a little bit about the sort of the process, the basic process.

If people want to give it a try. I mean, what is it that we’re trying to do? I mean, Grandma just stuck some in an old giant phone book sometimes [laughter], but she also did have a wooden press.

Linda: And that’s the thing. It’s funny, I have a little video I’ve been making trying to extend on the book. And one of the things I found is that I only have one press actually, and that often is in transit to do lots of different things, different collections I’m doing. And I was doing this one press because I wanted to make some cards for a thank you for my book, for my editors, and I didn’t have my press with me because it was at work because I had some other specimens drawing. And I take books just like everybody else. So I just put them in with the blotter paper and I just put my books on top. And that’s the best weight you can have. Books always are great, and that’s again why this is such an accessible science.

The tools are a little different, but what you’re really trying to do is just draw that water out. The idea is that the water in the cells is what’s going to make your specimen go black or be discolored. So you want to slowly draw it out. You don’t want to draw it out too quick, you don’t want to cook it in an oven or something like that. People have tried lots of different things. But really the blotter paper, paper that’s really absorbent. Newspaper is not great anymore, but even paper towels are quite absorbent. The only problem with paper towels is they can leave a texture, which is why you have to be careful with paper towels; they leave that extra texture on there, which is why the blotter paper is so nice. But blotter paper is expensive, but you can reuse it over and over and over again.

Margaret: So this is right up against the specimen. And if you have a big thick press, the other layers can be other things. It’s not like you have to have 500 sheets of blotter paper or something.

Linda: Not at all.

Margaret: Right? A top and bottom surrounding the specimen. Blotter paper? O.K.

Linda: Yes, to extract that out. Now, of course, we had talked about before that in the science world, we do use the newsprint, and it’s mainly because we’re processing a lot of specimens at once. So when we go out, we’ll collect about a hundred specimens. We need to push those through a system. So we’re not only drying them, but we’re also having to keep them really well organized. And to do that, we usually shift them through the newsprint so that we can keep track of who’s where. So it’s a kind of helpful thing. But for the gardener, I do this all the time. I go out, I collect things in my garden, also even when I’m collecting plants, you want to use that paper and the press, you need pressure on there.

I’ve talked about cell death. So when you go to put the specimen in and you start to dry it, I usually squish it pretty hard. And then I open it up a couple days later to have a look, and I’ll start rearranging if I feel like I need to see the stamens or the sepals in the middle, I need to remove a petal because it’s got this really important design on the inside of the petal that we need to see for taxonomy. And then I close it back up and I just let it dry for about five days, and I get the specimen I’m looking for. And again, if it doesn’t work out, then I make cards [laughter]. I make bookmarks, I make gifts. It’s the best part. There’s no waste in my job. It always goes towards something more creative and fun. [Above, plants going into Linda’s field press between newspaper layers.]

Margaret: You just were speaking to the idea of you might a couple of days later take one more chance before it’s really dried to move things around a little bit. And that’s one of the differences between you and Lacie, who we talked to at Framed Florals in Brooklyn, because she might take apart a flower because her creative idea for the end product is to rearrange the petals. Or because the center of the flower, imagine a rose or a coneflower or sunflower is so thick, it’s going to dry on a whole different schedule, if at all, and it’s not going to get flattened and go between glass.

So she may be taking artistic license, which is great, but you’re trying to document and show us this record for the centuries ahead of an accurate… And you were just speaking about for taxonomic, for identification purposes and seeing the reproductive parts, seeing anything that’s important, all the important parts. And so it’s not as pretty, pretty, it’s as accurate, accurate. Right?

Linda: And it can be really frustrating when you first start. And this is why I really wanted to do the book, because I love the work that these artists do, and I get so jealous that they can pull apart these flowers individually. And like I talked about you lay them all out, they’re just gorgeous, they dry at the same time, they behave, and then you get to put them all back together like a puzzle.

And you can arrange them so much more lovely than you can in my case, where you really have to keep all the parts attached so that we can see if it’s opposite or alternate leafing, if the toothing of the leaves, even the thistles and all the little parts that you don’t want to touch. And even when we press cactus [laughter], it’s super-painful, seriously. But we have to keep all the spines and we can’t take those off no matter how much they punch through the paper and the cardboard, right?

Margaret: If you have a fruit, I think you told me, you have to squish it, you have to know how many seeds are inside that fruit, right?

Linda: Yeah. We need to know if it’s a pit, or what the inside looks like, and this is where that parchment paper or that wax paper comes in so that you can… I often do this with raspberries and things like that. I’ll have to stick it in there and it doesn’t look pretty, but it tells me how many seeds are inside. And taxonomically really important for us.

Margaret: So again, Lacie making her artworks for her clients, she wouldn’t be doing that [laughter]. And so you’re using, surrounding those juicier, stickier materials like that, you’re maybe using wax paper before the blotter paper. You’re giving it a chance to stay unstuck and so forth at first, or like you said, parchment is another possibility.

And then in between, I saw that you turned me on to an interesting supplier of everything from presses to glue to who knows what, called Herbarium Supply Company. And the presses are quite inexpensive. They’re sort of two layers for top and bottom of lattice wood and a strap with a adjustable kind of, I don’t know what you call that, but you can tighten it, and they’re not very expensive. And then you put corrugated cardboard and newspaper layers and so forth in between. Is that basically all you really need?

Linda: Yeah, that’s the best part about it. And like I said, we all start off with books and that’s completely valid. There’s nothing wrong with using a book. But the presses, and this is the difference, too, if you notice a lot of craft people will use the press, and you’ll see this in Lacie’s picture where it’s the screw-down type [above, a press at Lacie Porta’s Brooklyn studio], it’s more of a craft type, and that’s one that’s going to sit somewhere. Whereas I’m moving, so I’m in the field for 10 hour days, and I have to be pressing while moving. There’s different ways to do this depending on how far out I have to go that day. So I actually have my press and it’s portable, and this was always the idea is that this press is very portable.

So we have the early collectors, of course, the really early collectors were going out for months at a time, still coming back to press. But it had to be movable. You had to be able to strap it onto your horse. You had to be able to move it with you at all times. And my press actually, I have very long, a lot of people use rope, I do use the straps and they’re cloth straps. I’m biased towards cloth straps, but I actually tie it and then I can actually put it on a backpack so that I can walk around with it and then get to my next spot and then sit down, take all my samples, put them in my press, and then keep moving for the day.

Margaret: It’s a field press. Yeah, definitely. You told me also that you started in this as a volunteer 30 years ago, mounting specimens, I think at a community college in Oregon. And is there still an opportunity for laypeople, like gardeners, to engage with a herbarium like where you work?

Linda: Oh yeah. Oh my gosh, yeah.

Margaret: Tell us about that, because I was surprised. I didn’t know [laughter].

Linda: We run on volunteers. Herbariums are notoriously, they are underfunded, but it makes us creative. And it also, to me, you just turn on opportunity. And so it means an opportunity for people to come in. So I have a team of volunteers. Every year I do an email out to about 20, 25 people, and they come from all walks of life, people who are retired, people who are students at my university. And we all get together in a room, and it’s one of my favorite things, and I kind of talk about this in my book, but it’s like a knitting circle.

So we all sit around and we mount specimens. And mounting specimens is absolutely the most therapeutic thing. So processing a specimen and processing its data is not always the most therapeutic thing, but mounting it and finalizing it, these students get to sit and read these labels about these beautiful specimens that were collected in remote areas by amazing collectors, and they get to tape them down and glue them down and arrange them in these beautiful manners that I put on my Pressed Plants Instagram, because I like to show this creative side that you can do at the end.

And we all talk about our life, we all talk about our day, we all talk about the podcasts we like, or the movie that was really cool, or the class to not take. There’s a lot of mentorship that happens in that room, and it really allows this closeness to happen and it allows everybody to slow down for about two hours.

And that’s really what I want to bring across to almost everybody is one of the reasons I want people to press plants is you slow down; you just slow down. And it’s lovely and it’s shareable and it’s easy to access and it’s everywhere. So anybody can contact their local herbarium.

There are 3,500 or something like that herbariums in the world. They’re everywhere. You wouldn’t even realize it. It’s in your backyard. Everywhere there’s an herbarium. And yeah, I started as a volunteer and it was the best thing I’ve ever done.

Margaret: It’s so interesting. I mean, because I would have thought you became a botanist and then that’s how you ended up working in it. But it was quite different. It was quite the other way [laughter].

Linda: Yeah. I was just taking a class and I saw somebody in a room and I was like, “What are you doing?” And they’re like, “We’re mounting specimens.” And I’m like, “What’s a specimen?” And it just starts from there. That was my Friday and it was my favorite day of the week was Friday for two hours mounting specimens. [Above, a mounted specimen of Scilla siberica from the UBC Herbarium.]

Margaret: Well, it’s pretty wonderful, and it’s been fun to learn more of the history as well. So just really quickly, when’s your next sort of field adventure? Where are you going? Going somewhere locally, or far?

Linda: So we’re going up to Squamish tomorrow. It’s a beautiful area that a lot of people go to up here near Vancouver. And we were just on iNaturalist. I’m working with an amazing student on a rare and endangered species across Canada called Bidens.

Margaret: Oh sure. Bidens, sure.

Linda: It’s a sunflower. It’s quite cute. But we are now detecting on iNaturalist that there’s some populations that have never been documented. So we’re going to head out and see if we can document some of these sites again, taking specimens, pictures, fitness measurements to see how they’re doing. And so that’s where I’m heading out tomorrow all day. Beautiful Squamish to collect gorgeous Bidens.

Margaret: Well I’ll be looking on Instagram to see what’s next. And thank you Linda Lipsen for making the time today. And I’ll talk to you soon again, I hope. Thank you.

Linda: Thank you so much for inviting me, Margaret. This has been a blast.

enter to win ‘pressed plants’

I’LL BUY A COPY of “Pressed Plants: Making a Herbarium” by Linda Lipsen for one lucky reader. All you have to do to enter is answer this question in the comments box below:

Have you ever pressed any plants or their flowers? Tell us.

No answer, or feeling shy? Just say something like “count me in” and I will, but a reply is even better. I’ll pick a random winner after entries close at midnight Tuesday, Sept. 5, 2023. Good luck to all.

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prefer the podcast version of the show?

MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Aug. 28, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

For example, if you need a dibber or weeder, don’t push the point of your pruners into the soil simply because they are handy. Improper use may result in injury and/or damage to equipment.

Third, it’s crucial to maintain tools so they are clean, sharp, and in good working order. This is our article’s topic.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Let’s get started!

Cleaning Tips

Keeping equipment clean goes a long way toward making it last. It’s essential to take a few minutes to rinse off the soil and air dry before storage.

Use a rag or scrub brush for persistent dirt to prevent it from clinging, harboring bacteria, and promoting rusting.

When you use tools on plants known to be infested with pests or infected by pathogens, be sure to sanitize them.

Here’s how:

Wearing rubber gloves, mix nine parts water and one part laundry bleach in a bucket.

Swish the business ends of soiled tools around, taking care not to submerge wooden handles. Use a rag dampened with the bleach-water solution and wrung out to wipe the handles before letting the implements air dry.

To sanitize knife, lopper, pruner, and saw blades, use 70 percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol on cotton wool for larger jobs and individual pre-moistened prep pads for small ones to avoid spreading pathogens through the garden and keep blades gunk-free.

When you do the final clean of the year, rub all wooden handles with linseed oil.

If the wood is already dried out or has many scratches or worn areas, you can use a mixture of 75 percent linseed oil and 25 percent turpentine for efficient penetration. Use a rag to rub the oil into the wood.

During storage, the oil dries and inhibits future damage from sun, moisture, perspiration, and wear and tear.

To treat and maintain the blades or steel parts, save some used motor oil and pour it into a large bucket of sand. Plunge the steel parts of your tools into the bucket and work them up and down.

The sand’s abrasive action removes rust and polishes the steel, while the oil penetrates to lubricate the working parts and inhibit future rusting.

Repair or Replace?

Season’s end is the time to evaluate the condition of your tools and see what needs to be repaired or replaced.

Look for loose and missing bolts, nuts, and screws.

The manufacturers of many products offer specialized adjustment tools and replacement parts.

For example, Felco-2 pruners have a special one for adjusting screw tension. Be sure to consult the manufacturer’s instructions before heading to the home center.

Occasionally you may need to replace a broken or damaged handle, but getting the handle separated from the steel socket may be a problem.

To remove a stuck handle, place it in a bucket of water with the water level covering the wooden part that fits into the steel socket, then allow it to soak for 24 hours to make the wood swell.

When you remove the implement and let it completely dry, the wood shrinks and you can remove the handle easily.

Rub the end of the new handle with linseed oil before inserting it into the steel socket.

For an unvarnished handle, rub the entire length with more linseed oil. Then work the steel business end into the bucket of oil and sand for a quick polish, and you’re all set.

Sharpening Techniques

Because they are easy to sharpen, it’s never worth wasting time trying to use a dull hoe or spade to cut through tough roots or or break up compacted soil.

All you need for the job is a 12-inch mill file.

Use a mill file to sharpen your hoes, spades, and shovels.

To sharpen a hoe, study the bevel of the edge on the blade. Then place the mill file at one end of the bevel and push it away from you, moving across the bevel toward the cutting edge.

Be sure to hold the file against the bevel so you follow the correct angle. Stop after a few strokes and look at the shiny area where the file has removed some of the metal.

The nicks and burrs should now be smooth. If not, continue, but remember that a hoe is a thick blade and not knife thin, so don’t overdo it.

To sharpen a spade, take the mill file and place it on the back of the blade or the side of the spade that is facing you when you put your foot on it. Then proceed as you did with the hoe.

Use the same technique for a trowel. A few strokes of the file toward the cutting edge will thin it enough for smooth gardening.

Storage Solutions

Quality tools can last a lifetime when they are stored correctly.

Avoid leaving implements outdoors for extended periods to prevent exposure to rain that can rust metal and rot wood, and the sun that can dry wood out.

Store implements in a dry shed or garage. Suspend them from a wall using nails or hooks in a peg board, with the blades and working parts facing upward.

Leaning hoes and shovels against a wall or piling them on the floor is ill-advised because it promotes contact likely to cause nicking, scratching, and warping.

Be sure to use the sheaths that often come with items like pruning saws and hori-hori knives, as they offer another layer of protection during storage.

Featuring at least 180 species, the Pinus genus, from the Pinaceae family, is a fantastic place to look if long-lived conifers with needy evergreen foliage are what you’re after. From the pines out in the landscape to the ones decking the halls ’round Christmas time, there’s many a Pinus to enjoy.

In this guide, we cover 41 different kinds of pine trees and touch on the features that make them special and readily identifiable. Depending on your landscape’s location, you won’t be able to grow them all – but you’ll certainly want to. 

Here’s the list of said pines that we’ll cover up ahead:

1. Aleppo

Hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11, P. halepensis hails from the Mediterranean region of Europe, but it’s also cultivated in the United States.

With an upright, rugged, and irregularly-branching habit, this tree has a mature height and spread of 50 to 80 feet, narrow two- to four-inch reddish-brown cones, and two- to four-inch bright green needles in bundles of two.

An especially heat-resistant conifer, the Aleppo pine was thought to be cut down and decorated by Ancient Greeks every year, a ritualistic tradition that early Christians adopted for their Christmastime celebrations.

That’s right, folks – you’re probably looking at the first ever Christmas tree!

Best suited to USDA Zones 4 to 7, this tree flaunts needles in groups of five that are three to four inches long, with dark green tops and grayish-green undersides.

The cylindrical cones are three to six inches in length, light brown in hue, and quite resinous.

This tree is a very handsome plant that’s fit for displaying proudly as a specimen, but your biggest challenge as a gardener will probably be procuring one in the first place.

4. Bristlecone

Found in the southwestern United States at high altitudes, bristlecone pines are reputed to be the longest-living plant species on Earth – some specimens in the Great Basin region of the American West are actually estimated to be at least 5,000 years old!

The term “bristlecone pine” actually covers three different species of Pinus: P. aristata, P. balfouriana, and P. longaeva, each with the subtlest of morphological differences that barely warrant differentiation.

Depending on their age and growing site, they can reach heights of 20 to 60 feet, with an irregular spread and open form.

Bundles of five inch-long needles grow from the gnarled branches, blue-green in color and coated with dots of white wax. The cones are brown, two to four inches long, and shaped like fat cylinders.

If you’re in the right spot, you’re more than welcome to try and grow these plants for yourself, but you’ll have to charge your descendents with caring for them once you’re gone.

Reaching a mature size is gonna take a while – believe it or not, a 1,000-year-old bristlecone pine is still regarded as a juvenile!

5. Canary Island

Pine trees aren’t usually thought of as tropical plants, but P. canariensis proves that stereotype wrong.

Native to the Canary Islands off the coast of northwestern Africa and hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11, this upright, conical tree reaches mature heights of 50 to 90 feet with a spread of 20 to 35 feet.

The tree wields slender, bright green to yellow-green needles, each eight to 12 inches long and borne in bundles of three. It also produces brown, oval cones that are six inches long.

A fast-growing tree, this species provides a beautiful form of protection from sun and wind in the landscape.

In its native sites, this tree increases ambient irrigation by way of fog drip, and the fallen leaves of the plant come in handy when packaging banana exports!

6. Chinese White

Another uncommon pine, P. armandii has very striking cones and needles.

The former are brown, broad, and four to eight inches long, while the latter are borne in clusters of five and four to seven inches in length, with glossy green outsides with gray-green insides.

Hailing from China, Tibet, Taiwan, and the Korean Peninsula, P. armandii is suited to USDA Zones 5 to 7.

Reaching 30 to 50 feet tall and 20 to 30 feet wide, it has a rounded, pyramidal habit.

The form and foliage of this tree combine to create a pleasing, graceful softness.

I normally wouldn’t consider a bunch of needles to be cozy-looking, but the Chinese white pine is a delightful exception.

7. Chir

Native to the Himalayas, P. roxburghii owes its species epithet to William Roxburgh, a Scottish botanist who discovered the tree in India.

Hardy in USDA Zones 8 to 11, the chir pine reaches heights of 50 to 100 feet, or sometimes taller, with a spread that’s significantly narrower.

As a result, the tree rocks a very upright and moderately slender form.

The shiny, brown, egg-shaped cones of this species can reach lengths of eight inches, while the light green, finely-textured needles grow in bundles of three and can reach a foot in length.

A fine species with big ol’ cones and needles, this tree is a beautiful fit for high elevations, green spaces, or anywhere else you want a tall pine to make a big statement.

This species is difficult to cultivate due to a slow growth rate and location constraints… but it’s definitely a looker, should you happen to stumble across one in the western United States.

11. Himalayan

Also known as the Bhutan pine, P. wallichiana is another species from the Himalayas, typically reaching heights of 30 to 50 feet and spreads of 20 to 35 feet.

Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 7, this tree has an elegant form, with a loose and broadly pyramidal habit that looks neither contained nor unruly.

With five- to eight-inch, grayish-green, flaccid needles in bundles of five alongside slightly curved, cylindrical brown cones that are six to 10 inches in length, P. wallichiana has a soft and inviting appearance, whether seen up close or viewed from afar.

12. Italian Stone

Native to the Mediterranean region, P. pinea is also known as the umbrella pine, and for good reason: its mature crown looks like it could shield you from the rain pretty well.

A lot of rain, might I add – this tree typically reaches heights of 40 to 60 feet and spreads of 20 to 40 feet.

Hardy in USDA Zones 8 to 10, this pine bristles with bundles of two bright green to grayish-green needles, each five to eight inches long.

Alongside the foliage grow reddish-brown, nearly spherical cones that can reach six inches long.

With a multi-trunked habit, the Italian stone pine looks much different from your typical pines, earning it props for uniqueness.

Whether grown solo, in groups, or as a screen, P. pinea is well worth the effort required to cultivate it.

13. Jack

Named after esteemed plantsman Joseph Banks, P. banksiana reaches heights of 35 to 50 feet and spreads 20 to 30 feet while possessing an open, spreading, and irregularly-shaped crown that one could refer to as “scraggly.”

Native to the northernmost United States and throughout Canada, it actually grows as far north as the Arctic Circle, earning it the title of “Northernmost Pinus.”

The stiff, olive green needles are a short one and a half inches and borne in bundles of two, while the brown, resin-coated cones are curved and fat, growing up to two and a half inches long.

Hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 6 with a tolerance for poor soils, P. banksiana is proof that toughness is a worthy landscaping trait all on its own.

14. Japanese Black

Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 8, P. thunbergii hails from coastal Japan and the Korean Peninsula, packing a tolerance for sandy soils and salty sea sprays.

Usually reaching heights of 20 to 60 feet and spreads of 12 to 20 feet, the Japanese black pine has a generally conical yet uneven habit, typically with distinctly tiered branching.

Said branching is bristling with two-bundled, glossy green, twisted needles, each with a length of two and a half to four and a half inches.

The canopy is also abundant with brown-gray ovoid cones, each one and a half to three inches long. Whether cultivated as a full-size specimen or trained as bonsai, P. thunbergii is well worth your gardening efforts.

15. Japanese Red

A native of temperate East Asia, P. densiflora typically reaches heights of 40 to 60 feet and widths of 15 to 25 feet, often with a broad, irregular, open, floppy, and usually multi-trunked crown.

Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 7, this tree grows three- to five-inch, bright green, twisted needles in bundles of two alongside brown, oblong cones that reach a length of two inches.

Another species that’s equally aesthetic as a full-size specimen or bonsai, P. densiflora will make you do a double-take, especially if you’re used to getting your aesthetic fix of Pinus from North American natives.

16. Japanese White

Starting its life with a dense, conical to pyramidal shape, P. parviflora eventually develops more of a wide-spreading and flat-topped habit, along with a mature height and spread of 30 to 50 feet.

Naive to Japan and China, this pine is hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 7, and is a perfect choice for smaller planting spaces.

Besides its smaller stature, P. parviflora rocks five-bundled, twisted, blue-green needles alongside two- to four-inch brownish-red cones.

17. Jeffery

Wielding an easy-to-remember Latin name, P. jeffreyi is hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 7 and hails from a region spanning southern Oregon to the northern part of Baja California in Mexico.

The tree bristles with bundles of three blue-green, seven- to nine-inch needles alongside reddish-brown, cylindrical cones up to a foot in length.

Named for the US-based Scottish botanist John Jeffery – the man who discovered this tree – P. jeffreyi reaches heights of 80 to 140 feet, with spreads of 25 to 35 feet.

The top half of the trunk flaunts a conical to rounded crown, while the lower half bears no branches.

As a Missourian, growing this tree will always remain a pipe dream for me. But for those on the West Coast with ample room in their landscape, P. jeffreyi just might be the pine for you.

18. Korean

An East Asian native, P. koraiensis typically reaches mature heights of 30 to 50 feet and mature spreads of 25 to 35 feet, rocking a loose, pyramidal form.

The tree grows two-and-a-half- to four-and-a-half-inch needles in groups of five, each with glossy green outsides and white stomatal lines on the inside, which combine to give the foliage a blue-green appearance.

Bearing edible pine nuts, the ovoid cones are three and a half to six inches long and mature to a dark brown.

Yet another epic pine from the Far East, P. koraiensis is a particularly fine choice for screening your landscape whilst adding to its beauty, whether planted solo or in a group.

19. Knobcone

Native to a region spanning northwestern Mexico through southern Oregon and hardy in USDA Zones 6 to 10, P. attenuata thrives in the dry, rocky soils of its native sites.

With a skinny, conical form, mature height of 30 to 70 feet, and spread of 10 to 20 feet, this tree produces light green, three- to seven-inch needles in groups of three, along with thick, three- to six-inch cones of a yellowish-brown hue.

It’s not the best selection for formal landscapes, but it’s definitely a worthy contender in more naturalized settings.

20. Lacebark

Slow-growing yet worthy of showing, P. bungeana is referred to in common parlance and notable for its exfoliating bark.

Upon peeling away, the dark gray bark reveals a patchwork of olive, light purple, silver, and milky white underbark.

Not to say that the needles and cones aren’t appealing – the former feature medium to dark green hues and two- to four-inch lengths in bundles of three, while the latter are egg-shaped, yellow-brown, and up to two inches long.

This species grows 30 to 50 feet tall and 20 to 35 feet wide, with a pyramidal, rounded habit that becomes more open, flat-topped, and broadly-spreading with age.

Most pine bark is ridged and colored with a gray hue of some sort – not that it’s a bad thing, but the delightful lacebark will provide a welcome break for anyone who’s sick of more typical Pinus bark.

21. Limber

Native to western North America and hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 7, P. flexilis earns its common name and species epithet from the flexible nature of its branchlets.

They’re so flexible, in fact, that you can actually tie them in knots!

This bendy plant starts off with a pyramidal habit before maturing to a more rounded and flat-topped form.

Reaching heights of 30 to 50 feet and widths of 15 to 35 feet, this tree is packed with five-bundled needles, each two and a half to three and a half inches long with a dark green and slightly glossy hue.

The light brown, egg-shaped cones are three to six inches long and typically quite resinous.

A medium-sized pine that’s fit for flaunting, P. flexilis is also a popular selection for Christmas trees. After all, reaching for presents is a lot easier when those branches are bendy!

The “lodgepole” moniker comes from the Native American practice of using the lumber for constructing dwellings, while the contorta epithet refers to the twisting of the needles and overall contortion of coastal lodgepole pine specimens.

24. Longleaf

With a fast growth rate and a long taproot that’s adept at drawing up moisture in dry sites, this pine tree is quite the worthy selection for landscaping.

26. Mugo

Also known as the Swiss mountain pine, P. mugo hails from mountainous regions of south and central Europe, and is hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 7.

Said cones yield deliciously edible pine nuts, which are quite attractive to both man and beast. But the plant’s overall appearance is also very pleasing, as is its tolerance for dry soils!

28. Pitch

Naturally found growing in the acidic, barren, and sandy soils of the eastern United States, P. rigida is hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 7.

Reaching mature heights of 40 to 60 feet, with mature spreads of 30 to 50 feet, it typically has an open, gnarled, and irregular habit, which is further amplified in harsh, exposed sites.

The green needles of this pine have a slight twist to them, and are borne in threes in lengths of three to five inches.

Also present are two- to three-inch, light brown cones with rather striking symmetry.

Used in days past for pitch and days present for lumber, pitch pines aren’t the prettiest of plantings, but they work well in wild or otherwise solitary sites with poor soils.

29. Ponderosa

The most prevalent pine tree in western North America, P. ponderosa typically reaches heights of 60 to 100 feet and spreads of 25 to 40 feet in cultivation, although wild specimens can grow much larger.

At maturity, the tree has a narrow and irregularly cylindrical crown, usually with short, stout lateral branching.

Dark to yellowish-green, five- to 10 inch-long needles grow in bundles of two or three alongside reddish-brown, oval-shaped cones three to six inches in length.

A fantastic forest or mass planting within its native range, this tree is a solid choice for a “shelter belt,” or a long line of tall plants that halt winds from severely buffeting large areas such as croplands.

30. Red

Hailing from eastern North America and hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 5, P. resinosa attains mature heights of 50 to 80 feet and mature spreads of 20 to 25 feet, developing a crown with remarkable oval-shaped symmetry.

Five- to six-inch, green needles grow in densely-packed bundles of two alongside two-inch brown cones with an egg to conical shape.

Along with the commercial value of its pulpwood and timber, this tree is very handsome, and quite resilient against harsh winds and a variety of different soils.

31. Scotch

Also known as the Scots pine, P. sylvestris has a wide distribution across Europe and Asia, with a similarly large hardiness range of USDA Zones 2 to 7.

This pine develops an open, rounded to flat-topped habit, reaching heights of 30 to 60 feet and widths of 30 to 40 feet.

The length of the blue-green, paired, and twisted needles ranges from one to four inches, while the grayish-brown cones are one and a half to three inches long.

Another fantastic selection for yuletide decor, this tree truly stands out in the landscape as a picturesque pine.

32. Shortleaf

Native to the southeastern United States and hardy in USDA Zones 6 to 9, P. echinata produces dark bluish-green, three- to five-inch needles in bundles of two, and brown, one-and-a-half- to two-and-a-half-inch cones.

Also worth noting is this tree’s reddish-brown bark, which certainly adds to the aesthetic.

When cultivated in the landscape, this broad, pyramidal pine typically attains heights of 50 to 60 feet and widths of 20 to 35 feet.

Native gardens, naturalized areas, and campus plantings are just some of its ornamental applications.

33. Slash

Named after the tree- and bush-populated swamplands in which it naturally grows – i.e. “slashes” – P. elliotti hails from the southeastern US and is hardy in USDA Zones 8 to 11.

Developing an open and rounded crown with age, this tree reaches heights of 60 to 100 feet and spreads of 30 to 50 feet.

Five- to 10-inch, stiff, glossy green needles are borne in clusters of two to three, and the glossy brown, cylindrical cones are four to six inches long.

A fast growth rate, strong wood, and a tolerance for barren soils make this a great lumber tree.

Aesthetically, these trees look good in groups, but they stand perfectly well on their own (metaphorical) two feet when planted solo.

34. Southwestern White

Native to Arizona, New Mexico, and northern Mexico, P. strobiformis grows 80 to 100 feet tall, 20 to 40 feet wide, and has a pyramidal, open crown that becomes broader with maturity.

Bright blue-green, four-inch needles grow from branches in clumps of five, while the creamy to light brown, egg-shaped cones reach lengths of 10 inches.

P. strobiformis is perfect for when you want the aesthetic of the white or limber pine in a more arid growing environment.

35. Spruce

Native to the southeastern United States and hardy in USDA Zones 8 to 9, P. glabra bears foliage with the dark green, flexible softness of a spruce, hence the moniker.

Twisted needles are borne in bundles of two and measure up to four inches long, while the brown, oval cones are one to three inches long.

Possessing a rounded, irregular canopy, this tree reaches 40 to 60 feet in height, with a spread of 25 to 40 feet.

P. glabra tolerates poor, dry, and wet soils, while making for a handsome landscape specimen or Christmas tree.

36. Swiss Stone

Also known as the Arolla pine, P. cembra hails from mountainous regions of Europe and has an open, rounded habit, height of 30 to 40 feet, and spread of 15 to 25 feet at maturity.

Dark green to blue-green needles – each two to five inches long and grouped in bundles of five – grow alongside purplish-brown, egg-shaped cones two to three inches in length.

As with P. pinea, this tree yields delectable pine nuts. Lacking the big ol’ dimensions of its peers, the Swiss stone pine is a gorgeous specimen or mass planting for smaller landscapes.

37. Sugar

The largest species of the Pinus genus with the ability to reach mature heights of 150 to 200 feet, P. lambertiana has another name: “King of Pines.”

As for its sugar moniker, that’s due to the relatively sweet pine nuts and sugary sap that the tree produces.

Nearly horizontal branches grow from the tree’s open crown, sprouting two- to four-inch, blue-green needles in bundles of five alongside yellowish-brown cylindrical cones that are 10 to 18 inches long.

Primarily native to California and Oregon, this tree is definitely worth a look-see for any passionate Pinus enthusiast.

38. Turkish

Hailing from the eastern Mediterranean, P. brutia is hardy in USDA Zones 7 to 11, and reaches heights of 65 to 115 feet.

With pairs of three- to six-inch green needles and stout, reddish-brown cones three to four inches in length, this pine also flaunts gorgeous orange-red bark.

A widely-planted timber tree, P. brutia is heat and drought resistant, and it’s no slouch when it comes to looks, either.

39. Virginia

A broad, open, and pyramidal conifer from the East Coast, P. virginiana typically reaches heights of 15 to 40 feet and widths of 10 to 30 feet, and is hardy in USDA Zones 4 through 8.

Its twisting needles in bundles of two are one and a half to three inches long with a yellow-green to dark green hue, while the dark brown, oblong cones have a similar length.

I gotta be honest: this tree isn’t the showiest of pines, but it does come in handy if you’d like to grow some vegetation on large swaths of undesirable soils, whether dry and barren or wet and clayey.

40. Western White

Native to the West Coast and British Columbia, P. monticola is capable of growing up to about 100 feet tall in cultivation, and pretty similar in form to the plain ol’ white pine, save for a narrower spread and denser foliage.

Said foliage is bundled in groups of five, with each dark blue-green needle measuring three to four inches long.

The tannish-brown cylindrical cones of this species are larger than that of P. strobus, with each reaching four to five inches in length.

If you’re looking for a white pine fit for western North America in USDA Zones 3 to 7, then you can’t go wrong with P. monticola.

41. Whitebark

P. albicaulis is an endangered mountain tree from the western US and Canada, with dark yellow-green, three-inch needles in clusters of five.

Cone-wise, you can expect to see dark brown, egg-shaped ones towards the top of the tree, each about three inches in length.

Hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 8, this tree has dimensions which vary depending on exposure.

In windy, mountainous areas, the tree may grow low to the ground and gnarly as krummholz, while specimens in more favorable sites can grow to an irregular, sprawling 100 feet.

The “whitebark” moniker is due to the light gray, almost white bark of juvenile trees.

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Spain’s national parks offer breathtaking landscapes, vibrant colours and natural beauty. If you’re travelling to Spain not only to discover its rich history and vibrant culture, but also to explore some of the most stunning national parks in Europe, you should definitely keep reading.

From towering peaks to dazzling coastlines, these protected areas offer an oasis for outdoor enthusiasts seeking adventure, solace and a deeper connection with nature.

What to expect when hiking in Spain’s national parks

Spain is home to some of the best hiking trails in Europe. There are many different types of trails to choose from, ranging from easy strolls to more challenging treks. No matter what your level of fitness or hiking experience is, there’s a trail that is perfect for you.

Most of Spain’s national parks are located in the mountains, so you can expect stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The trails are well-marked and well-maintained, allowing you to relax and enjoy the scenery without worry. Many of the trails wind through forests and meadows, offering plenty of opportunities to see wildlife.

Spain is a large country with a diverse climate, so be sure to check the weather forecast before embarking on your hike. In general, the best time for hiking in Spain is in the spring or autumn when the weather is milder.

Summer can be particularly hot, especially in southern Spain, so it’s best to avoid hiking during this time if possible. Winter can be cold and wet, particularly in northern Spain, but if you don’t mind braving the elements this can be a beautiful time to hike as well.

Spain’s best national parks for hikers

From the snow-capped peaks of the Pyrenees to the sun-drenched Mediterranean coastline, there are endless opportunities for exploration and discovery. And what better way to experience the natural beauty of Spain than on foot?

1. Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park

Hikers and nature enthusiasts love Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park in the Pyrenees. The park’s stunning scenery includes Añisclo Canyon, Europe’s largest waterfall.

Ibex, eagles and vultures are also frequently seen. Ordesa y Monte Perdido, with over 100km of defined trails, is a must-see for outdoor enthusiasts in Spain.

2. Sierra Nevada National Park

Europe’s tallest mountains are in southern Spain’s Sierra Nevada National Park. Mulhacén, the park’s highest summit, offers breathtaking vistas.

Sierra Nevada has hiking and mountaineering trails for all abilities. The park has several endangered species, including the Spanish imperial eagle.

3. Aigüestortes National Park

One of Spain’s most popular hiking spots is Aigüestortes National Park in the Catalan Pyrenees. Glacial lakes and pine-fir forests fill the park.

Exploration is possible on almost 70km of defined paths, including a three-day climb to Pica d’Estats.

4. Picos de Europa National Park

You’ll find more stunning mountain scenery in Picos de Europa National Park in northern Spain.

Over 200km of defined paths include routes to Fuente Dé cable car station, one of Europe’s highest peak lakes, and Circo de Posets, Spain’s largest glacial cirque.

5. Garajonay National Park

Garajonay National Park on the Canary Islands is a stunning place with ancient lava flows and grassy plateaus covered in wildflowers and heathland flora.

The Canary Islands’ “green lung” has approximately 100km of hiking routes with stunning views of Los Llanos de Aridane and Hierve el Agua.

Conclusion

Spain is blessed with an abundance of national parks, each boasting its own unique beauty. From the stunning coastline of the Costa Brava to the snow-capped Pyrenees, there is a national park in Spain to suit every taste.

It doesn’t matter if you’re searching for a strenuous walk or a laid-back stroll, Spain’s national parks provide something for everyone to enjoy – so start planning your adventure!