Category: Home & Garden

Of these, 94 percent were managed at home, and only 37 (0.6 percent) required that the individual be admitted to the hospital.

The majority of exposures involved accidental ingestion (58.3 percent) while at home, followed by dermal exposure (34.3 percent). Cacti accounted for the most encounters at 27.5 percent, with oleander species far behind at 12.5 percent.

So while there are poisonous plants out there that can cause serious harm, the actual risks aren’t as extreme as we might imagine.

You also need to decide what level of potential exposure you’re willing to tolerate.

If you have a pair of garden gremlins that eat their way through your veggie patch, you might want to avoid any plants that are only partially edible, like rhubarb, or those that look like edible plants, like castor beans.

But if your dogs are like mine, they are extremely choosy about which blade of grass they’ll nibble on as their after-meal snack.

I feel safe growing several so-called “extremely poisonous” specimens like yews and rhododendrons because I’m confident that my picky eaters won’t be sampling them anytime soon.

But if you have a curious toddler who puts everything in their mouth, you might want to keep the tempting red “berries” of the yew out of your yard.

While there have been very few serious or fatal yew poisonings in recent decades, only you can decide if it’s worth exchanging the evergreen splendor for peace of mind.

For livestock owners, you have to be even more cautious. Yew poisoning is not infrequent in livestock. Grazers aren’t as cautious and picky as cats, dogs, and humans.

So, in this guide, we’re going to review a pretty comprehensive list of potentially poisonous plants that people cultivate often in the garden.

But inclusion on this list doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t, under any circumstances, grow it.

Even tomato plants are poisonous, and pretty much no one is suggesting that we should keep them out of our gardens.

In other words, this is a list of plants that have the potential – sometimes remote – to be dangerous. But it’s not an admonition to avoid these species. Some are even edible in small amounts or when prepared correctly.

However, if you find your child or pet gnawing on a plant and you find it on this list, it’s worth a call to the Poison Control Center or 911, particularly if you see any symptoms developing. Call 1-800-222-1222 in the US.

Remember, the poison is in the dose. If your child wants to try some chrysanthemum petals on their salad with the rest of the family and there are no known allergies, toss ‘em on!

But if you had a big old patch of mums that is suddenly missing, and you find your small dog panting next to it, it’s a different story.

Kids and pets are really the major worry with most of these plants because they don’t know any better when it comes to which may or may not be safe to eat, and they have smaller bodies. Supervision will go a long way towards safety in the garden.

1. Aconite

You might have heard of monkshood or wolfsbane (Aconitum spp.).

The beautiful – and deadly – plant appears in Greek myths, and novels like “Dracula” and “Harry Potter,” and often features in recipes for magic potions.

Good old aconite has a notorious past and continues to be used in homeopathic medicine by those who know what they’re doing.

But if a kid or pet stumbled onto a patch and decided to give it a nibble, the results would be decidedly unmagical.

The alkaloid toxin aconitine causes facial numbness and paralysis, muscle weakness, and can lead to heart attacks. Smaller amounts cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.

Monkshood poisoning can and does happen, usually by people attempting to use it medicinally, but also when people ingest the berries or leaves after misidentifying them.

2. Aloe

What’s the number one succulent that’s soothing to humans, but dangerous to a dog or cat?

The answer is aloe vera, part of the Liliaceae family. It’s been used medicinally since ancient times in India, Rome, Egypt, Greece, and China, and has been referred to as the “first aid plant.”

Its magic has been used to heal burns, wounds, frostbite damage, and allergies, and even for improving the immune system.

But while many people take aloe internally, particularly in some Asian and Hispanic cultures where it’s consumed as a healthful drink, some aloes can be toxic.

There are more than 250 species in the world, and most are nontoxic.

But a few, like A. aageodonta, A. ballyi, A. christianii, A. elata, A. ruspoliana, A. striata, and A. verigata can be poisonous.

You wouldn’t want to make a drink out of any of these species. These contain a high ratio of chromone, anthraquinone, and anthrone, which are dangerous in large doses.

The latex of all species, including aloe vera, can also be harmful if consumed in large quantities.

Of course, it would take a lot of work to ingest that much latex, but now you know. Just in case your cat is particularly fond of aloe leaves.

Learn more about aloe vera in our guide.

3. Amaryllis

As cheerful as the blossoms of amaryllis flowers (Hippeastrum spp., formerly Amaryllis spp.) are, the plant contains lycorine, which can cause vomiting, diarrhea, gastroenteritis, dark brown urine, and even death.

There probably isn’t much risk of your child or pet grazing on the flowers, but the real danger is if you store the bulbs indoors during the winter for forcing.

Someone might mistake them for onions or think they have a tasty look about them. The toxins are concentrated in the bulb.

You can learn more about amaryllis in our growing guide.

4. Anemone

Anemones (Anemone spp.) are native across North America, Europe, and Asia, and many cultivars can be found in gardens across the world.

Of the 200 or so species, all of them are toxic to some degree.

If you were to eat any part, the protoanemonin contained in anemones would cause severe pain in your mouth, along with vomiting, diarrhea, and stomach pain.

The risk of poisoning is fairly low with this plant, not because it isn’t toxic, but because the intense pain it causes is an excellent deterrent to further consumption.

Check out our growing guide to learn more about anemones.

5. Angel’s Trumpet

With long, pendulous, yellow, white, orange, or pink flowers that you could definitely see an angel trumpeting, Brugmansia candida is always eye-catching.

In combination with the heady fragrance that’s released at night to attract pollinators, it’s a feast for the senses.

Make sure it’s not your mouth that’s participating in the feast. Every part of this nightshade-family plant is poisonous.

Like the closely related belladonna, angel’s trumpet contains atropine, scopolamine, and hyoscyamine. All three block neurotransmitters that impact the heart, digestive system, and nervous system.

People have used this species in folk medicine and as a hallucinogenic.

On top of auditory and visual hallucinations, it can cause confusion, delirium, weakness, paralysis, memory loss, and even death. Sounds like this plant should be renamed the devil’s trumpet, right?

Just enjoy it safely in the garden and keep it away from curious critters and kids, and it can continue to be a heavenly addition to your space.

6. Asparagus Fern

I know there’s a reference to an edible plant in the name, but don’t eat asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus and A. densiflorus)!

Asparagus fern, which is neither a fern, nor asparagus, is so-named because it looks like the foliage produced by asparagus plants.

Though they’re closely related, you don’t want to eat asparagus fern because it contains the glycoside sapogenin, which can cause vomiting, abdominal pain, and diarrhea if you eat enough of it.

Keep the airy, delicate foliage in the garden or as a houseplant and not on your plate.

Learn more about asparagus ferns here.

7. Autumn Crocus

Autumn crocuses (Colchicum spp.) aren’t true crocuses (Crocus spp.).

The plants definitely share a resemblance, but while a certain species of the latter produces the valuable spice we know as saffron, the former is poisonous.

Crocuses come from the lily family (Liliaceae) and contain the toxic alkaloid colchicine. While this alkaloid is used in several medications, a small amount is enough to kill a child or dog.

Symptoms include dehydration, gastroenteritis, respiratory stress, vomiting, and cardiac arrest, and consumption has proven fatal.

Learn more about autumn crocus in our growing guide.

8. Azalea

Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.) are pretty hard to ignore.

Those neon-bright flowers last for weeks, and some are so fragrant that kids or pets might be drawn to them for a sweet treat – but azaleas are toxic.

Sucking the nectar, eating the leaves or petals, or consuming honey made using the nectar can all cause adverse symptoms.

Symptoms from ingesting the grayanotoxin glycosides contained in the plant include diarrhea, weakness, vomiting, and collapse. While rarely fatal, it could be if enough is ingested.

You can find more information about azaleas here.

9. Castor Bean

Every now and then, someone in popular culture catches onto the high toxicity of the beautiful castor bean bush (Ricinus communis).

Just ask fans of Breaking Bad and Agatha Christie novels.

The plant contains ricin, a lectin so toxic that it was investigated as a biological warfare agent and has been used in several confirmed assassination attempts (and some successful assassinations).

Two dozen beans are enough to kill a full-grown adult, and much less will harm a child or pet.

Depending on the dose, ricin causes pain, difficulty swallowing, vomiting, diarrhea, hemorrhaging, organ failure, and death.

10. Chinese Lantern

Kids and adults alike find the papery orange calyces of the Chinese lantern (Physalis alkekengi) whimsical.

Just don’t try to eat them or any other part of the plant, except perhaps the ripe berries.

Chinese lanterns are in the nightshade family, and similar to tomatoes, potatoes, and eggplants, only the mature fruits are edible.

As with other nightshades, they contain solanine and other solanidine alkaloids that cause headaches, stomach pain, vomiting, diarrhea, slowed breathing, and death.

That said, there are no recent reports of fatalities among humans, but livestock is at risk.

While some people grow this plant as an edible or an ornamental, Chinese lantern can be invasive in some areas.

Keep that in mind, in addition to considering any grazing animals you may have around, when choosing to grow this.

Learn more about Chinese lantern in our guide.

11. Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum spp.) are beloved ornamentals, and both the leaves and petals are edible.

But they contain compounds that act as highly effective pest repellents and pesticides. And those same compounds can also make them unpleasant or dangerous if ingested in large amounts.

Mums contain sesquiterpene, lactones, and pyrethrins, which can be an irritant to sensitive humans and poisonous to animals.

Humans with allergies to mums can also be negatively affected. Pets might exhibit excessive drooling and vomiting if they eat this plant.

Check out our growing guide to learn more about chrysanthemums.

12. Delphinium

Stately and dramatic, delphiniums (Delphinium spp.), also known as larkspurs, are a popular garden option.

They also contain several dangerous diterpene alkaloids. Even a small amount can kill an adult, let alone a kid or pet.

The alkaloids cause neuromuscular effects including irregular heart rhythm and paralysis.

Humans aren’t at quite as much risk as animals, though there are reports of poisoning when people have tried to use the plant medicinally.

But livestock are regularly poisoned, sometimes fatally, by wild delphiniums in forage areas.

Learn more about delphiniums in our guide.

13. Dieffenbachia

Dumb cane (Dieffenbachia spp.) got its name because it can render people unable to speak if they ingest the sap.

If you eat enough or are particularly sensitive, it could also close your airway.

There are horrifying reports that the sap of the plant was used by slave owners in the Caribbean to punish Black slaves toiling in sugarcane fields. Other slaves used dumb cane to commit suicide.

When ingested, the sap causes swelling, making it difficult to speak and potentially paralyzing the vocal cords.

All parts of the dumb cane plant contain oxalate crystals, which cause the body to release histamines, resulting in the swelling.

While there have been reports of some deaths, and both dogs and humans have required tracheostomies to open their airways after exposure, there’s no reason not to keep the plant around if you feel confident you can keep it out of the mouths of pets and kids.

Just be careful when you work with it, and don’t ever eat it.

Learn more about dumb cane in our guide.

14. English Ivy

I discovered English ivy (Hedera helix) was toxic the hard way. I was ripping handfuls off my brick chimney, and within a few hours, my arms were covered in red welts.

Turns out, the sap inside the plant is toxic.

All parts of the plant contain triterpenoid saponins, which cause drooling, stomach pain, diarrhea, and vomiting.

Unlike many other species, the toxin isn’t concentrated in the berries of the ivy plant, though you shouldn’t eat those either. The leaves and stems are the most toxic parts.

Most people don’t go around consuming English ivy, so it isn’t a huge threat. But if your dog likes to chew on sticks in the yard or you have sensitive skin like mine, it’s worth being wary.

You can learn more about English ivy in our guide.

15. Foxglove

Foxgloves (Digitalis purpurea) are life-saving plants when consumed correctly as medicine. If they aren’t, they can be deadly.

Consumption can result in an irregular heartbeat, slow pulse, tremors, vomiting, and seizures. It could even cause death from heart failure.

All parts of the foxglove contain deslanoside, digitoxin, and digitalis glycoside.

Fortunately, the plant tastes super bitter, and it’s the rare golden retriever (probably) that will keep eating after one bite.

Even ingesting a little bit can make you feel awful. Imagine what it could do to a small pet if you accidentally gave them foxglove leaves rather than their usual leafy greens from the garden. Just don’t grow them near your edible garden bed.

Learn more about foxgloves in our guide.

16. Honeysuckle

Honeysuckles (Lonicera spp.) smell so sweet, so how could they be bad? All parts of the plant contain cyanogenic glycosides and carotenoids, though these are present in edible plants, too.

Remember, it’s all about the dose. If you were to eat a handful of leaves, you’d probably have an upset stomach.

Although there are some species in the Lonicera genus with edible berries, don’t even think about eating them unless you know exactly what you’re dealing with.

The inedible types of berries contain more of the toxic compounds than other parts of the plant.

Even still, we’re talking about a large dose that would be required to cause much of a reaction in an adult.

The danger (and delight) with honeysuckle is that it smells heavenly. Pets and little kids might be tempted to make a meal of something besides the flowers, which are edible.

Learn more about honeysuckle in our guide.

17. Hydrangea

Hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) contain the cyanogenic glycoside amygdalin, which can cause intestinal discomfort at high enough doses.

Fortunately for us, you’d have to eat a lot to get there. If you ate enough, you’d experience vomiting, diarrhea, and depression.

Again, the biggest risk is for those with small bodies. If they eat too much, they could be spending the next few days feeling pretty awful.

Keep the beauty of hydrangeas to the garden and out of curious mouths.

You can find more information about hydrangeas in our guide.

18. Jimson Weed

Datura, devil’s trumpet, thorn apple, or good old jimson weed (Datura stramonium). Whatever you call it, this plant is Toxic with a capital T.

It is native to and cultivated in warm regions across North America and it has also been used extensively in folk and traditional medicine.

Some people intentionally ingest it recreationally or in religious ceremonies for the hallucinogenic effect, but it hasn’t really caught on as a recreational drug because the tropane alkaloids atropine, hyoscyamine, and scopolamine also cause unpleasant, prolonged side effects like tremors, delirium, memory loss, tachycardia, and coma.

Toxicity varies from plant to plant and region to region, with the highest concentration in the seeds. This is one poisonous plant you should definitely keep kids and pets away from.

19. Lantana

Lantana (Lantana spp.) is one of those plants whose toxic potential in humans has been overexaggerated.

Lantana isn’t going to kill you or your kids, or even make you all that sick in comparison to some poisonous plants. But it might make someone vomit or experience abdominal pain or diarrhea.

It may seem awfully tempting to have a bite of those pretty black berries, especially if you’re a kid pretending to cook dinner.

If you were to eat enough, it could cause photosensitivity and a rapid heart rate. But nothing that is going to require hospitalization or cause death.

These effects are the result of the triterpene acids lantadene A and B that are present in all parts of the plant.

Serious issues are far more common in cattle, sheep, and horses who graze in areas where lantana grows, but it can impact guinea pigs, dogs, cats, and other small pets as well.

If ingested by these animals, it can cause liver and kidney issues.

Our guide to growing lantana provides more information about these plants.

20. Lily

Lilies (Lilium spp.), including Asiatic (L. asiaticum), Easter (L. longiflorum), Oriental (L. orientalis), and stargazer (Lilium hybrids), are extremely toxic to pets and mildly toxic to humans.

Don’t confuse true lilies with daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.). Daylilies are edible for humans and dogs, but toxic for cats.

If ingested, early symptoms of lily poisoning in pets include drooling, depression, and vomiting.

After about 12 hours, signs of kidney failure begin, with decreased urination. Kidneys fail after about 24 hours, leading to death.

Cats are particularly sensitive, though dogs can also suffer the same symptoms.

Humans can also be sickened by eating lilies, though you’d have to eat an uncomfortable amount.

Lilies cultivated indoors are particularly tempting to cats, so be sure to keep the two apart.

Interestingly, we haven’t determined which compound causes such serious symptoms in cats, but we know it’s in the leaves and petals of the plant.

Learn more about cultivating lilies in our guide.

21. Lily of the Valley

Sweet lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is delicate and dainty, but its toxic effects are anything but.

This plant contains cardenolide glycosides like convallatoxin, convalloside, and lokunjoside, especially in the roots.

If ingested, these can cause tachycardia, fibrillation, and cardiac arrest.

That doesn’t mean lily of the valley doesn’t have its uses – it can be used to make a powerful medicine to treat mild heart failure.

But a dog that takes a bite out of the sword-like leaves doesn’t know that.

This is one poisonous plant that you shouldn’t even joke about eating. If you spot symptoms in pets or humans like nausea, vomiting, chest pain, or an irregular heartbeat, seek treatment immediately.

Learn more about lily of the valley in our guide.

22. Morning Glory

The out-of-this-world color of the violet-blue, white, pink, or yellow flowers of the morning glory (Ipomoea spp.) are a red flag to keep this plant out of your mouth.

Why? The seeds of I. violacea and I. indica, among other species, contain lysergic acid amide (LSA), which has similar effects as lysergic acid diethylamide (LSD).

LSA is approximately 1/10th as potent as LSD, and people sometimes consume morning glory seeds intentionally to experience hallucinogenic effects.

The seeds also cause nausea, vomiting, and abdominal pain before the psychedelic effects kick in.

Morning glory can also cause lethargy, confusion, tremors, and incoordination. Imagine how distressing this would be for a child or pet.

Learn more about morning glories in our guide.

23. Mountain Laurel

This pretty tree or shrub makes its toxicity plain. If you eat mountain laurel (Kalmia spp.), your lips, throat, and mouth will start burning.

After that, the stomach pain and vomiting kicks in. This can be accompanied by a drop in blood pressure, tremors, ataxia, and progressive paralysis, followed by coma and death.

This isn’t one of those poisonous plants that requires a massive dose either. The diterpene compounds called grayanotoxins contained in all parts of mountain laurel are pretty potent.

This is particularly concerning for grazing animals like horses, sheep, and goats because 0.2 to 0.6 percent of an animal’s weight in leaves is all it takes to kill them.

Similar to rhododendrons and azaleas, honey made from the nectar of this mountain laurel is known as “mad honey” and it can cause blurred vision, muscle weakness, sweating, and irregular, slow heart rhythm.

You can learn more about mountain laurel in our guide.

24. Narcissus

Paperwhites and daffodils are Narcissus species that contain toxic alkaloids. Some members of the genus are more toxic than others.

If consumed, symptoms may include dizziness and abdominal upset. And if digested in large quantities, these plants can cause convulsions.

The alkaloids that make these members of the lily family indigestible specifically affect the nervous system.

Alkaloid ingestion of this type may also result in dysfunction of the liver, and this can be fatal if consumed in large quantities. Pets are more commonly diagnosed with symptoms than humans.

While the stems, leaves, and roots all contain the toxic compound, the strongest toxin comes from deep underground, in the bulbs.

It’s typically when people dig up the bulb, thinking it’s an onion, that trouble starts. There have even been deaths attributed to accidental consumption.

People and pets have been sickened by harvesting the leaves, thinking they’re grabbing some onion greens.

Learn more about daffodils in our guide.

25. Oleander

Don’t eat oleander (Nerium oleander, N. indicum and Cascabela thevetia). Just don’t do it.

The flowers are gorgeous, but please tell your kids and pets to avoid oleander like they would a rattlesnake. Just admire it from afar.

Although there aren’t any recent records of deaths, beyond those who ingested oleander to take their own lives, one would only need to ingest a small amount to experience its effects.

A single leaf could be deadly to a small person or animal.

All parts of oleander contain powerful cardenolides (oleandrin, nerin, digitoxigenin, and olinerin) that act on the heart.

Symptoms include stomach pain, vomiting, irregular heartbeat, cramping, bloody stools, salivation, disorientation, weakness, and death.

It may come as no surprise that this poisonous plant has been used in rat poison. Definitely not something you should eat.

Learn more about oleander in our guide.

26. Rhododendron

As with azaleas, rhododendrons (Rhododendron spp.) pose a danger if ingested.

All parts of the plant are toxic thanks to the grayanotoxin they contain, and honey made from the nectar is even called “mad honey,” as noted above.

If ingested, rhododendrons can cause paralysis, convulsion, arrhythmia, hallucinations, perspiration, and low blood pressure, depending on the dose.

They sure are pretty, though, and you can learn more about them in our guide.

27. Rhubarb

Most people know that rhubarb (Rheum x hybridum, R. rhabarbarum) leaves shouldn’t be eaten, but the plant poses more of a danger than some because a curious kid might assume that because you brought in some stalks to make a pie last week, they can use some of the leaves for their tea party this week.

The leaves of rhubarb are high in oxalic acid. Actually, a lot of things we eat have oxalic acid in them, but rhubarb leaves have a higher concentration.

For the most part, ingesting the leaves will lead to indigestion and stomach pain, but enough can cause kidney stones or even kidney failure.

Our guide to growing rhubarb has cultivation details.

28. Sago Palm

While every bit of the sago palm (Cycas revoluta) is somewhat toxic, from roots to tip, it’s really the nut-like seeds that cause the trouble. Pets apparently think they look delicious.

The whole plant contains a glycoside called cycasin that causes dizziness, ataxia, stomach pain, vomiting, and death by liver failure, and the glycoside is concentrated in the nuts. Just two of them are enough to kill a dog.

I say “dog” because it’s usually our canine friends getting into these plants that you’ll see in news stories and articles. It seems as though cats aren’t as interested. Sadly, some of these dogs end up dying.

If you have one of those dogs that just can’t help but put everything in their mouth, you might want to consider a different kind of palm.

Interestingly, different cultures that exist far apart from one another have learned how to process the seeds to render them edible to humans.

Without this specialty knowledge, say on the safe side and skip consuming any parts of your sagos. And if you want to grow sago palms check out our guide.

29. Snake Plant

Listen, I love a snake plant. Gorgeous greenery that can pretty much be ignored and neglected?

Happy in a dark corner but still as beautiful as ever? Sounds fabulous to me! And it is an excellent plant to have around… for humans.

Keep it away from your cats, dogs, and hamsters, though.

Dracaena trifasciata (though she’ll always be Sansevieria to me) and other species contain saponins, which can cause weakness, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, and potentially death if they eat enough.

Learn more about growing snake plants in our guide.

30. Wisteria

Eating wisteria (Wisteria spp.) won’t harm a healthy adult much, but it can still cause some unpleasant side effects.

These could be even worse for a pet or child since they are so much smaller.

Wisteria contains glycosides known as lectin and wisterin, which cause mouth and stomach pain, vomiting, depression, and diarrhea.

I hear you wondering why anyone would want to eat wisteria.

The vines produce seed pods after they flower, and you can forgive curious minds for considering trying a few just to see what they taste like.

Our guide to growing wisteria has cultivation instructions.

31. Yew

Yews (Taxus spp.) are long-lived evergreens that have found their way into gardens across the globe. It’s also one of the most notoriously toxic plants in the US and Europe.

All parts of the plant contain the toxic alkaloid taxane, which acts on the cardiac system and can result in death if enough is ingested.

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Are you looking for gardening classes for yourself?

Trying to figure out how to start a garden can be overwhelming. You ask yourself questions like “What do I do first?”, “How will I know what to plant?” and “If I put time and money into a garden, will it be worth it?” Let me help you get started and remove some of the uncertainty about how to start gardening.

On the other hand, you may have been gardening for a while and found that you have a basic understanding of gardening principles, but you’re looking for more in-depth information. You may be looking for ways to make your garden more productive. The gardening classes I teach may be what you need to take your garden to the next level.

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I offer monthly online gardening classes in “Growing in the Garden Academy” through Patreon

“Growing in the Garden Academy” includes a monthly live online gardening class where we cover seasonal topics. I also share what I’m planting, fertilizing, harvesting, and starting indoors (the “Low Desert To-Do List” for my garden) twice a month.

When you join “Growing in the Garden Academy,” you gain access to recordings of all past classes.

Past topics include Fall Gardening, Fall Crop Specifics, Garden Troubleshooting, Spring Garden Timeline, Companion Planting & Crop Rotation, Composting & In-Bed Vermicomposting, Soil Health & Fertilizing, Summer Gardening, Perennial Vegetables for Hot Climates, Seed Starting Basics (Indoors & Out), Monsoon Gardening, and Pest & Beneficial Insect Identification.

Each month, there is a new class with topics chosen by current members of GITG Academy.

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I teach in-person classes frequently throughout the Phoenix Area

I offer in-person classes regularly throughout the Phoenix Valley. If you sign up for my monthly newsletter, I first announce my upcoming classes there. In-person gardening classes are always a lot of fun. I love answering questions and want to ensure everyone learns something. We often learn from one another during class.

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Upcoming 2023 Gardening Classes

(click on the class name to register or get more information)

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Are you looking for gardening classes for your organization?

I’m passionate about helping others learn how to garden. Teaching gardening classes is one of my favorite ways to do just that. Whether taught in-person or virtually through “LIVE” online classes, everyone learns together in a fun, relaxed setting.

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“I reached out to Angela Judd about teaching gardening classes for the Mesa Public Library after hearing a glowing review of her expertise from another staff member. We set up two classes – Fall Gardening in Arizona and Composting and In-Bed Vermicomposting Basics – to present to the community on two separate nights within a two-week timeframe. The night for Fall Gardening in Arizona was amazing! The library saw a full house of eager gardeners of all levels; wanting tips, tricks, and overall information on how to plant a successful garden in the fall. Angela’s presentation was abundant in advice, covering anything and everything a gardener of any caliber would need. The following week, when she presented her Composting and In-Bed Vermicomposting Basics class, the library again saw a large community of gardeners who were either currently composting and/or vermicomposting or wanting to begin and did not know how to start. Once more, the wealth of knowledge that shined through in Angela’s presentation was seen. With such high praises and a wonderful reception, I can’t wait to have her back at Mesa Public Library for even more classes!”

Brianna
Mesa Public Library

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In-person gardening classes in the Phoenix valley

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Online group gardening classes are available

Online group classes are an excellent option if you don’t live in the Phoenix metropolitan area but would still like gardening classes. The classes are easy to arrange on your platform, or I can set up a class for you using CrowdCast. Live, virtual classes allow everyone to ask questions and participate in real time.

“I reached out to Angela to teach our employees a live, virtual class on composting. Angela was responsive and willing to work with me on how I wanted the class to be done. She did a fantastic job teaching our employees about composting. She had a great deck that she put together, and was happy to answer any questions our employees had.

We recently had Angela back for another live, virtual class teaching us about container gardening and again, she was fantastic! The class was extremely informative, well thought out, and again she was happy to answer all the various questions from our employees. It’s amazing how much she knows about all things gardening! I truly cannot recommend Angela enough; she is a wonderful teacher, great to work with, and we can’t wait to partner with her again in the future!“

Allston
Program Manager, Employee Engagement & Community
T-Mobile

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Is there a topic you would like your audience to learn more about? I’m happy to answer questions and discuss seasonal topics and current gardening trends.

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It takes some time to grow pines this way, but isn’t this true of everything that’s worth doing? Though it’s a slow process, it isn’t difficult.

If you’re new to growing pines, see our guide for more information.

While this article won’t teach you how to toss a pine cone directly into the ground to grow a new tree, we will teach you how to find the seeds, stratify them, and sow them.

Here’s what we’ll go over:

You need two key things when propagating pine seeds: The first is knowledge of how to determine when the cones are ready, and the second is patience.

If you have a good amount of the second one already, we’ll help you with the first.

Harvesting Pine Seeds

To harvest pine seeds for planting, you need to find cones of the appropriate age. Look for brown or tan cones that are closed.

Mature cones will stick around on the tree for up to a decade, though most stay on the trees for two to three years.

Remember that some cones are serotinous. They’ll be sealed tightly shut. Not all cones on the same tree will necessarily be serotinous, though.

Depending on the environment the tree is growing in, all of the cones could be serotinous, some might be, or none will be.

Look for a tree that has lots and lots of cones. These tend to be the most likely to have viable seeds.

Avoid cones that are already open, since they’re probably empty, and their reproductive bits have probably already been scattered to the wind.

Place the cones in a paper bag or cardboard box and put them in a warm, well-ventilated place.

Leave them there for a few weeks, giving them a shake every few days. The cones will dry out and open up.

Any that don’t open can be tossed in the oven on a cookie sheet at the lowest setting until they do open.

Cones might release their seeds, or they might retain them. Look for fallen material in the container or on the baking sheet.

Most seeds are small, with a thin wing attached. Some are larger, like the edible ones we get from stone (P. pinea) and pinyon pines (P. subsect. cembroides).

If you don’t see any, pry a scale out and look at the bottom. The seed might be sitting there. Pluck the seeds out with some tweezers.

Place the seeds in a bowl of water and wait a few minutes to see if they sink or float. Those that sink should be discarded.

Stratifying

Once you’ve harvested the seeds, place them in moist sand in a resealable plastic baggie and stick them in the refrigerator for two to three months.

Check the bag frequently to see if the sand is drying out or if any of the seeds start germinating.

If they do, plant them right away in pots inside if the weather isn’t right, or directly outside if it is.

We’ll talk about suitable conditions in just a second. If the sand is a bit dry, add some water until it feels moist but not wet.

Ponderosa (P. ponderosa), Austrian (P. nigra), and Jack pines (P. banksiana) can be stratified for a month or two. Scotch (P. sylvestris) and white pines (P. strobus) need the full two or three months.

If you aren’t sure what pine species you’re dealing with, go for three months and keep a close eye out to see if anything starts germinating.

Sowing

After the necessary amount of time has passed, fill a few six-inch growing pots with a moistened seed-starting medium. Trees planted indoors can be started at any time of year.

Place two seeds per pot a quarter-inch deep, but no deeper. If you must, err on the side of placing them too shallowly.

Place the pots under grow lights or next to a window where they will receive at least eight hours of direct sun or supplemental light per day.

If it’s winter in your region, you might want to use a heat mat, or at least place the pots away from a chilly window. The soil should stay at about 60°F.

Keep the soil moist but not wet.

When the plant is six inches tall, which can take up to a year, harden it off and grow it outdoors until you’re ready to transplant.

Harden off seedlings only when the weather is above freezing. Wait for a day with temperatures consistently above 32°F and take the pot outside. Let it sit in the sun for about an hour, then take the plant back indoors.

Throughout the next week, add another hour each day. At that point, the plant can be left outside full time.

You can also sow the seeds directly outdoors in prepared soil in full sun. This should be done in the spring after the last predicted frost date. The soil should be loose and well-draining.

Most of us, whether we have slightly sandy or clay soil, can use a bit of well-rotted compost or manure to loosen up the soil and improve drainage.

Plant several seeds in each area where you want a tree, or plant multiple spaced a foot apart with the plan to transplant them as the seedlings mature.

So long as it isn’t the dead heat of summer, the plants will be fine. Just transplant as soon as you can work the ground.

Locate the spot where you want your new tree to grow and dig a hole twice as wide and deep as your growing container.

Mix well-rotted compost with the soil that you removed and fill the hole halfway back in.

I recently posted a video on the pumpkins growing from our compost pile, and beneath I got a very interesting comment on how one family grew their annual pumpkins.

TheVTRainMan writes:

When I was a kid my parents used to grow pumpkins every year in a corner of our yard just by throwing in a single pumpkin into the leaf cleanup pile. The next year another batch would grow while the leaves broke down from the previous fall. Never watered them, never bothered them until the fall. That’s when we would pick all but one and then proceed to bury it in the leaves again for next year.

This is really just the way to do it. We’re going to try it and see what happens.

My friends Avery, Kai and Ariana from Sacred Vision Studios visited our plant sale on Saturday and took home a pumpkin – you can see a video of Avery opening it here. Nice, thick flesh! We haven’t eaten one yet, as we usually give them a few weeks to cure and become more flavorful, so it was interesting to see one opened. Looks very good.

We’ll have lots of weeds and leaves and waste as we clean up the homestead this fall. Obviously, we’ll have to rake up some piles around the edges of the gardens and throw pumpkins into them.

This isn’t the first time we’ve had great success growing pumpkins from the compost pile. That post is from 2014. They were a really excellent variety. We’ll see how the new ones compare.

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You know the mowing season is on when you feel uncomfortable with your lawn’s appearance. The mowing season calls for your A-game in lawn maintenance to have it in the best shape, and a lawn mower is the best tool for this job.

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Before hitting the ground, you should ensure that your mower is in perfect form for a smooth workflow. The good news is that mower prepping is straightforward, especially if you are experienced in landscaping.

No need to worry if you are new to readying your equipment for lawn maintenance, as we will guide you on how to pull it through.

Is My Lawn Mower Ready for Mowing?

Your mower’s readiness for the task ahead depends on how you parked it after the last mowing session.

You don’t have to stress much if you have a new lawn mower, as most things are in order, though you should make minor tweaks for convenience. Oil moving parts, sharpen the blades if dull, adjust the deck, and you are good to go.

You need to put in more work for a used lawn mower. The following are the measures to abide by when prepping your used mower for fieldwork.

Clean the Mower

Some people prefer to clean the lawn mower before working on it, while others opt for washing as the last step. Both ways work fine, though working on a clean mower is easier.

Alternatively, you can eliminate minor stains, which can inconvenience your maintenance routine, and adequately clean the mower after completing the prep work.

Correct storage after previous use can save you from this step or make it easier. For instance, you won’t stress much if you use a lawn mower cover. Attend to the body, the engine, the deck, and other dirty areas.

General Inspection

This step helps you detect lawn mower anomalies. It is advisable to move it to an open area for hassle-free examination. Thorough probing reveals what the mower needs to get back to its best form. Additionally, you know which repair tools you need.

Running the mower’s engine is a critical part of the inspection, as you can point out issues with the battery, fuel supply, and other systems. Please take note of the ignition process, emissions, and general operation for effortless preparation.

Exercise utmost safety during this stage to prevent accidents. Have safety clothing and disconnect spark plugs when probing the engine and blades.

Update the Electrical Unit

According to yardfloor.com, your mower’s electrical unit may need updating if you detect symptoms like a hard start. The battery is the hub of the electrical system, and it may fail to function, particularly after long periods of inactivity. Besides a troublesome ignition, you may also notice dimming lights and unresponsive accessories.

The problem may be low voltage, which you can address via jumpstarting. Old or worn-out batteries require frequent jumpstarting, which can be frustrating. Get a new battery to avoid this inconvenience.

How are the battery terminals? Clean corroded terminals, which you can tell by a whitish or bluish buildup. Replace the clamps with high-grade ones to prevent this complication’s recurrence. 

The alternator, wires, fuses, or starter may need repairs or replacement depending on their state. You should unplug the battery if you won’t use the mower for a long time. Store the mower’s battery in a cool, dry, and safe place.

Oiling

You should oil the moving parts of the mower for superior performance. Use high-quality lubricant for the engine to avoid problems like overheating and stalling. An oil change is necessary if the oil in the mower is old or contaminated.

Drain the bad oil and refill it with fresh one to avoid hiccups when tending to your lawn. While changing engine oil, check the state of the oil filter. Replace it if it is out of order.

Refueling and Fuel System Upgrades

Starting difficulties may point to a fuel system hitch. Sometimes, the trouble is as simple as low fuel, solvable by refilling.

Nevertheless, you may have adequate fuel, but the mower still acts up. You might experience this problem if you retire the mower with fuel in the tank. This is likely a case of fuel degradation, especially if the equipment was out of service for extended periods.

Get rid of the degraded fuel and clean the tank to eliminate contaminants. Use a fuel stabilizer the next time you park your mower to prevent a quality drop and fuel system wear.

Inspection portrays how stable the fuel system is. You might need professional help when troubleshooting components like the fuel pump. Make necessary upgrades for a smooth mowing session.

You can skip this step if you own an electric mower that’s powered by batteries.

Focus on the Deck and Blades

The deck and the blades are responsible for a significant part of the lawn mower’s functionality. Remove any debris clogging the deck and test its height adjustment, ensuring it is seamless. Once done with the deck, you focus on the blades.

Sharpening mower blades improves their cutting power and balances them. Sharp and well-balanced cutters give a precise cut and won’t cause overloading or deck clogging, which may result in engine overheating.

Be careful when dealing with the cutters to prevent injuries. As mentioned, you must turn off the engine and unplug the spark plugs. Furthermore, wear protective gear like gloves and safety goggles when working on the blades.

Attend to the Tires

Your grass cutter tires have low pressure after long periods of inactivity. Please do not use it in this state, as you may have a rough operating experience, an unsightly outcome, or damage to other parts.

Inflate flat tires and check for punctures. Small punctures are easy to fix, but you will need new tires if the holes are widespread.

Test Drive

The final step is to test the mower to see if your fixes were successful. If everything is good, then you are ready for the mowing season. However, you must return to the drawing board if you feel something is off.

Final Thoughts

A lawn mower is a handy and all-round arsenal for an unsightly yard. You must properly prep your mower after long periods away from yard work. This piece highlights measures to follow to ready your equipment for the task ahead.

Don’t forget to attend to components like spark plugs and filters, as they may affect your workflow. Also, don’t hesitate to ask for professional help if the maintenance is too much for you.

Are you a victim of a suburban garden? A carpet of trimmed green grass, perfectly trimmed shrubs, and not a dandelion in sight? It’s time we take our gardens back into our own hands! Here’s how you can embrace dopamine gardening and turn your garden back into a joyful space.

I’m not usually one for trends, but dopamine gardening is one I can get behind because it’s all about not following trends! I want as many gardeners as possible to try it out for themselves.

Gardens can be very personal spaces, reflecting the personality of the gardener who tends to them. If you look at my garden compared to the house next door, it’s going to look completely different.

In dopamine gardening, you plant what makes you happy and create a space that uniquely reflects you.

So! Here’s how you can let dopamine garden take the wheel and lead you through your backyard design.

This post will cover…

What is Dopamine Gardening?

Dopamine gardening stems from the trend of dopamine decor. In dopamine decor, you ignore trends and instead decorate your house with items that make you happy. The space often ends up colourful and depicts many elements of your personality.

It’s the same thing with dopamine gardening! In a dopamine garden, you’re filling it with plants and decor that make you feel good. It ignores the idea that you need freshly cut grass to appease the neighbours or perfectly trimmed bushes.

Why not create a wildflower haven in your front yard instead? Or grow mountains of vegetables? Perhaps you love the idea of a rock garden instead. You can create a garden by filling it with whatever you like.

I know it can be hard to ignore the social norms of what a yard is expected to look like, but when you do, you create a space for yourself you want to spend way more time in.

Gardening for Mental Health

It’s funny that we call it dopamine gardening because it’s not lying one bit. It’s scientifically proven that being outside and in the garden can greatly boost our mental health.

For those of you who know my story, you know that I became severely disabled overnight. Suddenly I could barely get out of bed and had to stop working. My world completely changed in a matter of days.

The thing that really saved me was the garden. I started with just five minutes a day, and it slowly got my body and my mind moving once again. To this day, just five minutes outside in my yard can keep me from feeling blue.

Horticultural therapy is a form of therapy practice that uses gardening and plant-based activities to boost mental health. Studies have shown that those who engage in horticultural therapy can lessen the severity of depression.

It’s also incredibly helpful for those with anxiety—the more greenery in our lives, the less depression, stress, and anxiety is present.

Types of Dopamine Gardens

When I was selling my house, the realtor told me that I might want to clean up my garden to make it look more appealing to potential buyers. She didn’t like that I had left piles of mulch and leaf debris in my yard.

My garden was a curated, wild space. I purposefully leave behind the leaves, as they naturally would, to feed the soil and help local wildlife. So I told her no!

People will say that you want to blend in or make sure your house and its yard maintain its resale value. While it’s good to look out for your future self, if you only think about what others want, you may as well be renting a space.

I mean just look how happy my garden looked!

If you want some inspiration, there are many different types of gardens out there that focus on feeling good in your space. Here are some garden design ideas to get the juices flowing.

Sanctuary Gardens

Sanctuary gardens embrace the idea that gardens are therapeutic spaces. They’re spaces where you feel like you’ve been transported elsewhere when you step into them. It’s a space for you to relax and find a little bit of rejuvenation.

Learn how I turned a corner of my garden into a special space for myself in my guide to sanctuary gardens.

Circles in Garden Design

Did you know that circles instinctively inspire joy? Think of hula hoops, Ferris wheels, bouncy balls, or balloons. It translates to the garden, too; from the shape of alliums to herb spirals, there are many ways you can incorporate circular designs into your gardening space.

Get more ideas on adding circles to your garden in this design guide.

Meditation Gardens

Mediation gardens are spaces designed exclusively to meditate in. If you find yourself stressed or overwhelmed, taking a few moments a day to meditate can help to clear your mind.

Meditating outside gives you double the benefits, thanks to all the mental health benefits of being outside.

For ideas on what plants and items to fill a meditation garden with, check out this post.

Moon Gardens

Moon gardens are magical spaces. They’re designed to be enjoyed at night, filled with white and light-coloured flowers that either only come out at night or reflect the moonlight well. The result is mysterious yet serene spaces that are wonderful for all night owls and entertainers out there.

Here’s how you can make a moon garden in your yard.

Adorable Dopamine Garden Decor Ideas

Beyond the plants and the design, you can add some garden decor and art to your space to inject some of your personality into the space. Here are a few of my favourite DIY projects and some decor items that I personally love.

DIY Projects

Decor Items

Remember, when it comes to dopamine gardening, you’re creating a space just for you. Take some inspiration from this post, spin it on its head, and turn your garden into your new favourite space. Have fun!

Try These Garden Decor Ideas!

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This summer was most definitely not the warmest we’ve had. As the chilly weather starts to set in and your heating oil tank becomes your best friend, finding ways to keep your home warm without breaking the bank becomes a top priority.

Fortunately, there are several smart strategies you can employ to save money on heating oil. Let’s take a look at some cost-effective tips to help you heat your home efficiently, and the services offered by QuickTanks.

Shop around for the best prices

When it comes to buying heating oil, don’t settle for the first offer that comes your way. Prices can vary significantly between suppliers, so it’s essential to shop around.

It’s best to get multiple quotes from local heating oil companies, then compare their rates. It’s most definitely a competitive market, and these companies need your custom just as much as you need their oil!

Keep an eye on prices throughout the year

Heating oil prices are influenced by various factors, including global oil prices, supply and demand, and even weather conditions. Keep yourself informed about these factors, and monitor oil prices.

This may seem like a tedious task, but if you notice a favourable trend, you could save money on heating oil by buying when prices are lower. This will prevent you from paying extortionate prices when you’ve forgotten to keep on top of checking and accidentally run out of oil.

Regularly maintain your oil tank

Maintaining your heating system ensures that it runs efficiently, consuming less oil to provide the same, if not a higher level of warmth.

Make sure to schedule regular maintenance checks to clean or replace filters, inspect for leaks or corrosion, and optimise the system’s performance.

An efficient system not only saves you money on oil, but also extends the lifespan of your equipment. If you find that your tank has an issue, it’s best to find the problem sooner rather than later.

Upgrade to a more efficient heating tank

If your heating tank is outdated, it may be worth considering an upgrade to a more energy-efficient model.

Modern heating tanks are designed to use less oil while providing better heat output. Although it’s a larger initial investment, the long-term savings on heating oil can be substantial. From single-skin to bunded oil tanks, QuickTanks can assist you in selecting the right heating oil tank and system, ensuring you get the best performance and efficiency. 

Remember, saving on heating oil isn’t a one-time effort, but a continuous process. By staying informed and taking a proactive approach, you can turn heating your home from an expense you’d rather avoid into a manageable cost.

If you’ve never heard of a bulb lasagne you’re probably raising your eyebrows right now.  It is a real gardening ‘thing’ though!

This post explains what a bulb lasagne is, and why it’s a great gardening project to have a go at. There’s also a step-by-step planting guide, plus advice on the best bulbs to plant, and how to take care of your bulb lasagne so it provides you with months of beautiful flowers.

What is a bulb lasagne?

A bulb lasagne is a clever way of planting bulbs in pots in layers to create a nice full display of flowers that lasts for months.  You layer up your bulbs in the same way you would add layers of pasta to an actual lasagne, hence the name. You might see this method also described as layered bulb planting, or lasagne bulb planting.

Layering bulbs in pots is really easy to do, and will give you a lovely display throughout the winter months and into late spring for very little effort.  It’s also a brilliant way to make the most of space in a small garden, patio, or balcony container. What’s not to like?

Can you layer bulbs?

If you’re wondering how to plant bulbs in pots, layering different varieties in the same container is a great option. Flower bulbs will be perfectly happy to be layered up in a flower pot. The important thing to get right is the order in which you plant them. The ones that flower first should be planted on the top layer, with the ones that flower next on the second layer, and so on.

When is the best time to plant spring bulbs?

It’s important to plant bulbs at the right time of year, and this varies according to the variety you choose; check the packaging if you’re not sure.  Spring flowering bulbs should be planted in autumn.

If you want to plant a bulb lasagne with summer flowering bulbs such as gladioli and dahlias, you need to plant it in early spring.

Can I plant on top of bulbs?

Absolutely. Winter bedding plants are a great way to give your spring display a head start before the bulbs flower.

How to plant a bulb lasagne

Autumn is the perfect time to plant bulbs for spring flowers, so if you’d like to have a go at planting a bulb lasagne, here’s how to do it.

What you need to plant a bulb lasagne

Here’s a list of the things you need to plant your bulb lasagne.

You’ll need a variety of spring bulbs with different flowering times for your container.  The aim is to get a continuous succession of flowers for as long as possible, so check the flowering month on the bulb packet before you buy.

1. Prepare your container

When it comes to bulb lasagne planting, you’re going for big impact and wow factor. A great way to achieve this is to pack the container full of bulbs; bear this in mind when choosing the size of your plant pot.

It’s a good idea to put some ‘crocks’ (broken pieces of terracotta) or a layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot. This will help to provide good drainage and prevent excess water in the container.

Once you’ve done this, add your first layer of compost to the container, until it’s about one-third full.

2. Plant your layers of bulbs

Wondering “What order do I layer my bulbs?” Here’s a quick guide.

For the first layer of bulbs in the container, you want to plant the latest flowering bulbs. Once they’re in, cover them over with a layer of soil.

The bulbs that flower before the bottom layer go in next. Again, cover this second layer of bulbs with a layer of compost.

The final layer should be the bulbs that flower first.

It’s important you plant your bulbs in the right order, and it’s surprisingly easy to get mixed up!  I’ve found that laying out each variety in a line before I start really helps.

3. Add plants to the top of your bulb lasagne

Your bulbs won’t flower until late winter, so you need to add plants to the top of the container to create a lovely display in the meantime. To do this, cover your top layer of bulbs with compost, then add your plants on top and fill in any gaps with more compost. You can then top dress with decorative gravel if you like.

Keep your container moist, but don’t be tempted to over-water. Bulbs hate sitting in cold, soggy soil.

Bulb lasagne ideas: what to plant with container bulbs

Now your bulb lasagne is planted, you might be thinking ‘What can I plant on top of bulbs in pots?’. There are lots of lovely options here that will make your container look fantastic until the bulbs start to put on a show.

Winter flowering pansies, violas, cyclamen and heather are all great options for the top of your bulb lasagne. I think it’s also worth adding in some foliage plants such as ivy, heuchera or cineraria to really boost the impact.

Great bulbs for planting in a bulb lasagne

Need some help with the best bulbs for bulb lasagne loveliness?Here are some ideas for *spring bulbs which you could use on each layer of your lasagne:

• Bottom layer: tulips, hyacinths
• Next layer: narcissus, daffodils, anemone, muscari (grape hyacinths)
• Top layer: snowdrop, crocus, miniature iris reticulata

You can buy bulb collections or a bulb lasagne kit that’s designed for layering bulbs, or make up your own bulb lasagne combinations to suit the size of your containers.

Here’s a short time-lapse video of beautiful crocuses to inspire you to get planting!

What to do with bulbs in containers after flowering

Your bulb lasagne should flower for you year after year, but the bulbs will benefit from a feed after a couple of seasons.

Can I leave bulbs in pots for next year?

If you’d rather not leave your bulbs in their container, you can dig them up once the foliage has died back and dry them out, then store them. I have to admit I’ve never bothered doing this though, I like the low-maintenance element of leaving well alone!

I do replace the top layer of compost when I change the bedding plants, to give the whole container some fresh nutrients for next spring.

And that’s it – a quick gardening project that will give you lots of beautiful blooms to enjoy in the depths of winter 🙂

More garden bulb planting resources

If you’re also planting bulbs in the garden, you might like to check out my post on planting bulbs, which has a step-by-step guide to help you get it right.

And if you’re planting spring bulbs in large quantities, how about forcing a few of them to flower early for indoor blooms this winter? This is another easy project – and they make great gifts too. My post on forcing bulbs shows you how to do it.

Do you think you’ll have a go at bulb layering by planting a bulb lasagne with different types of bulbs?  I’d love to hear what you choose to plant, I’ve still got some containers to fill so inspire me!

More nature inspiration for kids

Planting a bulb lasagne is just one of the fun nature projects in my book, *A Year of Nature Craft and Play.  There’s an activity for every week of the year and it includes fun gardening projects, crafts, games, art and science experiments – perfect for inspiring kids to embrace nature play and explore the amazing natural world.

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But when you raise yours in a container, it’s that much easier to control all of the growing conditions.

Which means you’ll have a better chance of harvesting those lovely white (or purple, orange, or green) heads.

Plus, cauliflower grown in pots is easier to access, which means blanching and harvesting are simpler.

In case you’re brand new to the world of growing this cruciferous vegetable, you might want to check out our full growing guide for all their basic requirements.

Here’s what I’ll cover in this guide, which is specifically aimed at growing your cauliflower in a container:

Ready to dig in? Then let’s get started.

Choosing a Container

Cauliflower has shallow roots. That means you don’t need a super deep container, just one that’s wide enough to accommodate the mature dimensions of the plant and provide it with enough soil to draw moisture and nutrition from.

You will need a pot with a minimum depth of eight inches and a width of 18 inches to grow one plant.

If you want to grow several, you’ll need to increase the width accordingly, allowing 18-24 inches between plants, or purchase multiple pots.

You can use terra cotta pots, but you will need to be extremely diligent at watching the moisture level in the soil if you choose this option, since terra cotta tends to dry out quickly.

Cement or stone pots tend to retain water better. But you might want to put them on wheels so you can move the plant around as needed without straining your back – they’re heavy.

I like to plant mine in a plastic or metal container because these retain water well, but they’re also light enough that you can move them around easily when you need to. Since this plant is sensitive to heat, this is particularly handy.

Learn more about the pros and cons of different container materials in this guide.

Make sure whatever type of pot you pick has at least one 1/2-inch drainage hole for every square foot of surface area at the base of the vessel.

If you aren’t using a new container, it’s always a wise idea to wipe pot down with a 1:10 mix of bleach to water in order to sanitize it. That way, you won’t be sad when your seedlings suddenly look decidedly unwell thanks to some hidden pathogen.

If you struggle with keeping up with your watering schedule, you may want to select one with a self-watering system to make things easier.

How to Plant

Pick a spot in full sun to partial shade to start your plants, but plan on moving them around if the weather turns, or as the trees begin to leaf out in spring or lose their leaves in fall.

Ideally, this veggie prefers six hours or more of sun a day, but a little shade throughout the hottest part of the day is always welcome.

Heads that are wrapped in leaves for blanching will probably withstand a light frost, but persistent winter weather will either cause the plant to bolt, or will turn the head mushy and inedible.

Sowing Seeds

Fill your selected container with potting soil and sow seeds 1/2 inch deep. Space the seeds about two to three inches apart.

Water the soil thoroughly, using a soaker hose so that you don’t disturb the seeds. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Seeds should germinate in about 10-14 days.

Ensure that the seedlings get at least eight hours of sunlight per day as they mature.

Thin to 18-24 inches apart (if you’re growing more than one in a pot) or remove all but the strongest seedling from each pot when they develop two true leaves.

Starting Indoors

If you decide to start your seeds indoors because you have a short growing season, you have two options.

You can start them in the pot that you plan to grow them in or in seed trays.

Opt for the second route if your chosen pots are too large or unwieldy to move easily. Starting seeds in trays or small pots also enables you to control the soil temperature with a heat mat.

To do this, fill a seed starting tray or cells with a seed starting mix. Sow one seed per cell or space them two to three inches apart in a tray, 1/4 to 1/2 an inch deep.

Place your seed starting tray on a heat mat set to 70°F if you’re starting them during chilly weather, to aid germination.

Water thoroughly, using a spray bottle so you don’t disturb the seeds. Keep the soil moist but not wet.

Your seeds should germinate in about 10 days.

After germination, the seedlings should get plenty of sunlight or artificial lighting from a grow light, for at least eight hours per day.

When the seedlings form two sets of true leaves, you can transplant them to their permanent container and move them outside.

Regardless of whether you’re transplanting seeds started in cells or moving a pot that you started indoors, it’s a good idea to harden them off for a week before moving them outside permanently.

Hardening off involves placing the plants outdoors in indirect sunlight for an hour and then bringing them inside again. Add an hour each day over the course of a week until they’ve adjusted to the outdoor conditions and can stay there full time.

Container Care

Here’s the biggest challenge that you’ll encounter:

Cauliflower plants absolutely must have consistent moisture.

If they don’t, the heads won’t form properly and all that hard work will be wasted.

Containers are notorious for drying out more rapidly than soil in the ground. If you aren’t particularly adept at providing consistent water, consider investing in a drip irrigation system.

When you pot a plant in a new container, it’s a good idea to fill it up and water it until the water runs out of the drainage holes.

Then, check the plant in 12 hours or so and see if the soil feels dry or wet by sticking your finger in a few inches deep.

If it feels wet and your finger comes out muddy, it retains water well and you should give your plant less next time.

If it feels dry, plan to give your plant a longer soak in the future, or water more often.

This is a good way to determine how long your particular pot holds water, for future reference.

Of course, you’ll have to adjust as the weather warms up or when rain falls, but this gives you a good starting point.

Check the soil moisture regularly. It should feel moist, like a well wrung-out sponge, as far as you can stick your finger in. If the soil ever feels dry, give the plant a good soaking.

Additionally, you can place a one-inch layer of straw on the top of the soil around your plant to help retain moisture.

Cauliflower needs full sun, but be prepared to move your pots if the days start to heat up beyond 75°F or so in the spring, or if you have an unexpected warm spell in the fall. If that happens, put them in a shaded location for the duration of the afternoon heat.

Every two weeks, apply the same fertilizer that you used when setting your transplants in the soil. If you’re using MiracleGro All-Purpose food, apply it at a ratio of one tablespoon of granules to every gallon of water.

Blanching

Unless you have selected a self-blanching type, you’ll need to blanch each cauliflower head as it forms. This is the process of shielding the developing head from excess sunlight, to maintain the creamy-white color and prevent them from turning bitter.

When the head is a little larger than a golf ball, you should pull some of the leaves up and secure them loosely around the head with some twine or a rubber band.

The head should be entirely covered by the leaves, but be sure to leave a few open and exposed to the sunlight.

Read more about blanching cauliflower here.

Troubleshooting Tips

Cauliflower is prone to various pests and diseases, just like all of its cruciferous cousins.

The good news is that, so long as you’re using fresh potting soil, you shouldn’t have to worry about some of the common soil-borne diseases, like clubroot.

Another bit of good news is that crop rotation and cleaning the garden beds regularly so there isn’t any plant debris lying around are key steps to preventing many cauliflower diseases – but since you’re planting in a container, you’ve already nailed these two!

Here’s what you need to watch for:

Aphids

Aphids attack many plants, including cauliflower.

They’ll suck on the leaves and infest the heads, causing small brown spots or yellowing leaves. They can also cause stunted growth. That’s a lot of damage for such a tiny critter.

The bugs themselves can be hard to spot since they’re just an 1/8 of an inch long. Depending on the type, they can be pink, white, gray, green, black, or tan.

They’re usually active during periods of warm weather, with temperatures ranging from 65 to 80°F.

You’ll often spot these bugs on the underside of leaves, or you may see the sticky residue that they leave behind, known as honeydew.

Learn more about dealing with aphids here.

Bolting

While growing cauliflower in a pot has its advantages, one of the drawbacks is that the plants can be more prone to bolting.

That’s when the plant shifts into survival mode by producing flower stalks and seeds.

For you, that means no lovely cauliflower head to eat.

Bolting is typically caused by an overabundance of heat, too little water, or, less often, a hard freeze. The bad news is that containers tend to heat up faster than the ground soil, as I mentioned above.

On top of that, if you place your pot on cement, tarmac, or dark wood, it’s going to get hotter even faster.

Keep a close eye on your container and touch the outside now and then to see if it feels hot. If so, you might want to move it to some shade.

You can also insert a soil thermometer into the soil, and keep an eye on it during periods of particularly warm or cool weather.

Cabbage Loopers and Worms

All brassicas may be attacked by cabbage loopers (Trichoplusia ni). Sometimes described as inchworms, these green caterpillars crawl along plants, chewing holes in the leaves.

These annoying pests can have several generations per year and are most active when air temperatures are between 70 and 86°F.

Once they get going, they can completely defoliate a plant within a few days. Don’t ignore it if you see ragged pieces missing from your plants’ leaves, or if you notice that entire leaves have vanished.

Check your plants daily for pests and pull them off when you see them. Drown them in soapy water or crush them.

Potted plant covers or a cloche, treatment with Bacillus thuringiensis, or releasing predatory trichogramma wasps are all effective means of control.

Cabbage white butterflies (Pieris rapae) – known as cabbage worms in their larval form – are pretty little white butterflies with a black dot on their wings that will be more than happy to lay their eggs on your plants in the spring.

Within a week, these eggs hatch out into larvae that are intensely voracious eaters, chewing ragged holes in the leaves. They’re about an inch long, hairy, and green with a faint orange stripe.

They’re one of the most invasive pests of vegetable crops in the world, in fact, and if there are enough of them, they can quickly destroy an entire plant.

The worms will also bore into the developing heads, or can even prevent head formation before it starts.

Even worse? There can be four generations each year. If you are growing a variety that is slower to mature, you might think the attack is over, only to have to fight a second round!

Once again, treatment with Bacillus thuringiensis and using a cloche to cover your plant are your best defense.

Flea Beetles

Flea beetles, from the family Chrysomelidae, are tiny black or brown bugs that got their name because they hop around like the bugs that prefer to suck on your pets.

These will nibble little shotholes into your plants instead.

Floating row covers will also keep this bug at bay.

Read more about combating a flea beetle infestation here.

Damping Off

Damping off is caused by Pythium spp. water molds, as well as various species of Fusarium and Rhizoctonia fungi, all of which may live in the soil.

Damping off can kill seedlings before they even have a chance to get started.

Seedlings that do grow will have thin stems near the soil line and water-soaked lesions that can cause them to collapse. They’ll fail to thrive, and may eventually die.

If you start with fresh potting soil, you’re halfway toward preventing this disease. In addition, be sure to clean your tools with a 1:10 water and bleach mixture before and after use.

Remember, clean your potting container too, particularly if you plan to reuse an old one.

Read more about damping off here.

Downy Mildew

Downy mildew is caused by the water mold Hyaloperonospora parasitica. Cool temperatures and moist conditions are favorable for the spread of this disease.

Usually, you’ll see small yellow spots form on the leaves of your plants, followed by a gray mold that can cause leaves to die. This can reduce the vigor of your poor plant as well.

As a first line of defense, always be sure to irrigate at the base of the plants and avoid wetting the foliage.

You can also spray plants with a 50:50 mixture of milk and water preventatively every few days.

My name is Monica Babwah. I live in New Port Richey, Florida, with my husband and four children. I’ve been busy with landscape design for about four years, and I just love the benefits it adds to your life and the people around you. I started planting when my dad would visit from Long Island, New York. It gave him something to look at, and he said it made him feel good. He would sit in the shade and admire the trees and flowers while sipping from a cup of herb tea. I saw how good it made him feel, which made me want to continue my journey of a captivating landscape. My father passed away on May 30, 2023. In remembrance of my beloved father, I keep planting!

I admire a landscape that shapes itself naturally with a little trimming to keep it under control. A variety of plants add such a nice touch to your yard. An accent of color gives off that whimsical feel. I stopped using mulch due to its washing into the street and down my walkway. I added a ground cover and slate to my design, and it looks wonderful. The ground cover keeps the weeds from growing in my flowerbeds, and the slate is too heavy to wash away.

Before

And after. I used Veronica prostrata (Zones 4–9) down the cement walkway. It’s a ground cover that produces beautiful blue flowers that love full sun. I added black slate to give it that finishing touch.

Beautiful summer Florida blooms

This was just a plain brick circle until I added some purple Mexican heather (Cuphea hyssopifolia, Zones 9–11 or as an annual). At maturity it reaches about 1 to 2 feet tall. It is perfect to use as a border or ground cover. I trim it a little to keep the circular shape.

Evolvulus (Zones 9–11 or as an annual), known as Blue Daze, lines my walkway with bricks from the 1800s that I purchased for $50. I cleaned and laid every brick, hoping one day one of my children would walk down them to marry the love of their life.

Why let old concrete go to waste when you can create a living mosaic? I added purslanes, ferns, and succulents. It didn’t take much to capture the look that I wanted!

If you want to see more from Monica, check out her TikTok: @creativehomedesigns

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

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This week, we are revisiting some of our favorite summer-centric Gardenista stories. Remember this one?

Screened-in porches are making a comeback, a trend we applaud. After years of dwindling popularity, porches are back on young homebuyers’ lists of “Most Wanted” features, according to the National Association of Homebuilders. Among Millennials, a front porch is more prized than hardwood floors, a master bath with both a shower and tub, or a dining room. And with good reason.

A screened-in porch is your summer living room. It’s a neighborly space, inviting breezes and greetings from passersby. And it’s an iconically American architectural feature. Before the 1860s, “there was no hint (or probably dream of) making a house flyproof,” writes Russell Lynes in The Domesticated Americans. Then, during the Civil War a manufacturer of wire mesh sieves miscalculated demand; the surplus was repurposed and sold as window covering. By the 1880s, screened-in porches were a trend.

In support of the screened-in porch, we’ve rounded up 15 of our favorites from around the country:

Connecticut

Shelter Island, NY

Bellport, New York

Breeders are constantly developing new cultivars of this delicious fruit to develop distinct flavors, greater yields, and improved disease resistance.

Join us as we take a look at nine of the best Asian pear cultivars for the home garden.

1. 20th Century

Also known as ‘Nijisseiki,’ ‘20th Century’ is highly popular for its abundance of juicy fruit and ornamental, multi-season interest.

The attractive, midsized fruit is golden yellow with a hint of rosy blush, and has a crisp texture and mild flavor.

Before the leaves show, branches are covered in clusters of showy white blossoms. Fruit is harvested beginning in early August, and in autumn, the glossy green leaves turn a vibrant orangey-red.

‘20th Century’

The pyramid shaped trees reach a height of 12 to 18 feet, and spread 12 to 15 feet. They are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9.

These are self-fertile but deliver a greater crop when cross-pollinated with other varieties with the same midseason bloom time. A good keeper, fruits store well for four to five months in cold storage at 32°F.

Container trees are available at Nature Hills Nursery.

2. Chojuro

A favorite of the home gardener, ‘Chojuro’ has firm, gold-to-russet fruit with a luscious crunch and the distinctive, sweet flavor of butterscotch.

This type of Asian pear has a midseason bloom time, producing beautiful clusters of creamy white blossoms. In fall, the leaves are brilliant in shades of crimson and deep orange.

The fruit ripens on the branch in late August to mid-September, and these pomes have a long storage life of up to six months in refrigeration.

‘Chojuro’

‘Chojuro’ grows in a rounded, upright form and reaches a mature height of 12 feet with a spread of up to eight feet. It’s hardy in Zones 5 to 8.

Self-pollinating, this variety will produce a greater crop of pears when cross-pollinated with others that share the same bloom time, such as ‘20th Century.’

Bare root trees are available at Nature Hills Nursery.

3. Drippin’ Honey

‘Drippin’ Honey’ is a beautiful cultivar with large, lightly russeted amber-gold fruits with creamy white flesh that has a crisp texture and a delightful honey-sweet flavor.

A heavy producer, clouds of white blossoms flower in early to mid-season, and the pears are harvested in October. The waxy green leaves put on a pretty autumn display in shades of orange and red.

‘Drippin’ Honey’

Easy to care for, with good resistance to fire blight, the rounded trees reach a mature height of 16 to 20 feet with a 16-foot spread. ‘Drippin’ Honey’ is hardy in Zones 5 to 8.

For pollination, plant with at least one other pear tree with the same bloom time. Excellent for use as a storage fruit, the harvest will keep for up to six months in refrigeration.

Bare root trees can be found at Home Depot.

4. Hosui 

‘Hosui’ is favored for its tasty, honey-russet fruit with firm white flesh, a sweetly tart flavor, and fantastic crunch.

It produces an abundance of blossoms in early spring, and the round, medium-sized fruits are ripe and ready for harvest starting in mid-August.

These put on a brilliant fall show as the leaves turn shades of yellow, flame orange, and scarlet.

‘Hosui’

The shape at maturity is loosely columnar, and reaches a height of 10 to 15 feet with a spread of eight to 12 feet. ‘Hosui’ is hardy in Zones 4 to 9.

Self-pollinating, this cultivar does best when planted with other early bloomers. The fruit has a good shelf life of four to five months in refrigeration.

Bare root trees can be purchased at Fast Growing Trees.

5. Kosui

‘Kosui’ produces medium-sized amber fruit with bronze russeting and full-flavored, sweet flesh with a juicy crunch that stores for up to two months in refrigeration.

The trees are covered in pretty white blossoms with an early to midseason bloom time, and the pears ripen in mid-July to August, followed by autumn colors of yellow to red.

A vigorous variety with an upright, columnar shape, these trees reach a height of 15 to 20 feet and spread about 12 feet.

‘Kosui’ trees require cross-pollination with other early bloomers, and are hardy in Zones 4 to 9.

6. Niitaka

Highly productive, ‘Niitaka,’ aka ‘Singo,’ is noted for its abundance of large caramel-russet fruit with an occasional pink blush. The flesh is off-white with a crisp, juicy texture and mild, melon-like flavor.

The rounded trees have a mature height of 10 to 15 feet with a spread of 10 to 12 feet. They have an early season flowering time and fruits ripen in September and October, with a storage life of two to four months in refrigeration.

These trees are self-pollinating, but yield greater crops when planted with other early season bloomers. ‘Niitaka’ is hardy in Zones 4 to 9.

7. Olympic Giant

Also known as ‘Korean Giant,’ ‘Olympic Giant’ produces extra-large pears of russeted green-gold with cream-colored flesh that has a crisp, juicy bite and a sweet taste of butterscotch.

The rounded trees flower in midseason and put on a fiery fall display of reddish-orange foliage. They grow 16 to 18 feet tall with a spread of 12 to 16 feet, and the fruit ripens in mid- to late October.

‘Olympic Giant’

One of the best-keeping Asian pears, ‘Olympic Giant’ has an excellent shelf life of up to six months in refrigeration.

This cultivar is not self-pollinating, and requires others with a similar midseason flowering time for cross-pollination.

Trees with disease resistant rootstocks are available at Fast Growing Trees.

8. Shinseiki

The ‘Shinseiki’ variety, also known as ‘New Century,’ is very productive and features medium fruit with crisp, white flesh, a mildly sweet flavor, and a juicy bite.

The almost-translucent skin comes in shades of pale yellow to celery green, and is freckled with small, green to brown lenticels (or raised pores).

An early bloomer with a dense display of blossoms, the fruit ripens in late August to mid-September.

Mature trees reach a height of 12 to 18 feet with a spread of 10 to 12 feet in a pleasant, rounded shape, and give a pretty fall display in vivid shades of orange and red.

‘Shinseiki’

‘Shinseiki’ trees are self-pollinating but provide larger yields when cross-pollinated with others in the early flowering group.

Hardy in Zones 5 to 9, the pears have a good storage life of four to six months in refrigeration.

‘Shinseiki’ container trees are available at Nature Hills Nursery.

9. Yoinashi

Aromatic and sweetly flavored of butterscotch with light floral notes, ‘Yoinashi’ develops medium-sized fruit with lightly russeted gold-to-bronze skin and crisp, juicy flesh.

An early season bloomer, beautiful white blossoms adorn the rounded trees that grow eight to 15 feet in height with a similar spread.

The fruit ripens from mid-August to mid-September and has a storage life of two to three months. In fall, the leaves take on hues of bright orange and scarlet.

‘Yoinashi’ has good resistance to fire blight and is hardy in Zones 5 to 10. These trees are self-pollinating but produce larger crops when cross-pollinated with other early season varieties.

Beauty and Flavor

Productive, easy to harvest, and uniquely flavored, Asian pear trees also add beauty to the garden with masses of spring blossoms and fiery autumn colors.

They’re available in a variety of sizes from dwarf to standard, making them suitable for even small yards.

And remember that even with self-pollinating trees, planting a second one that flowers at the same time ensures an abundant, bountiful crop.

Do you folks have a favorite variety? Let us know in the comments section below.

And for more information about growing pear trees in your garden, check out these articles next:

Planting in the fall allows plants to become established before going dormant, making them better prepared for spring leaf production and a bountiful crop.

So set your sights on next year’s smoothies, pies, and fruit salads, and dive into fall berry planting.

Plan Your Berry Plantings

First, you’ll need to decide which types you want to plant.

There are several considerations to take into account, from the types you actually like to eat to the constraints of your garden space. Be sure to consider the following before getting started:

What Types of Berries Do You Like to Eat?

Make a quick list of the ones that you already know you like. Do you love strawberry ice cream? Are blueberries a staple in your smoothies? Do you go wild for cranberries in the fall?

Go ahead and write down your favorites. Later, I’ll give you some suggestions for more unusual berries you can add to your list as well.

Consider Your Climate

Knowing your climate and USDA Hardiness Zone will help you decide which types are best to plant.

For arid climates, gojis, gooseberries, currants, elderberries, and mulberries will be some of your best bets.

In temperate climates, you will have the widest range to choose from – including strawberries, blueberries, and cane fruits  – blackberries, raspberries, and the like – as well as those mentioned for arid climates above.

Consider Your Soil

Your climate conditions will influence your soil as well.

Arid climates tend to have alkaline soil, and wet climates tend to have acidic soil. Before you plant, consider your soil pH and whether adding amendments might help.

Whether your soil is acidic or alkaline, you may want to plan to work some compost into your soil before you plant. Compost helps balance soil pH, because it tends to have a neutral pH itself.

Not sure if you have acidic or alkaline soil? Areas where conifers are growing are more likely to be acidic, whereas vines like honeysuckle and Boston ivy thrive in alkaline conditions.

To get a head start with complete information about your soil, perform a soil test.

Consider the Growth Habit of the Plant

Berry, berry, wild and merry, how does your berry grow? Make sure you know what to expect from your plants before you decide which ones to include.

Strawberries are low-growing herbaceous perennials that can be used as a ground cover.

Some culinary berries grow on shrubs, such as blueberries and gojis. Blueberries can double as landscaping plants with their bushy growth and beautiful fall color.

How Tall and Wide Are the Plants Going to Get?

The height and spread of your plants can impact the other members of your garden.

Make sure to check this info for the specific varieties you choose, and then plan your plantings for areas where you have plenty of room.

You’ll want to make sure they won’t shade out neighboring low-growers come spring, or spread beyond the bounds of neighboring fences or tree lines. Remember that existing perennial plants will grow in time as well!

For compact spaces and container gardens, consider dwarf cultivars.

Consider How Many Plants You will Need

Are you looking for just a few handfuls to satisfy a household of one or two with occasional snacks, or do you envision future summers and autumns filled with jam-making and pie baking?

Depending on the types of plants that you choose, some will take several years to reach full maturity.

Some cultivars are known to produce high yields, while others are more sparing with their output of fruit.

These factors may also affect the varieties that you choose, and how many you decide to plant.

Planting multiple plants or other cultivars of the same type in close proximity is also recommended for certain varieties, to promote cross-pollination and the production of a larger harvest.

In this case, be sure to select cultivars that are recommending for planting together, with similar bloom times.

Where to Find Berry Plants

Blueberry bushes, and raspberry and blackberry canes, may be in stock at your local garden center during the fall season. To find some of the more unique or rare plants, online resources will probably be your best bet.

If you are the experimental type like I am, I bet you’ll enjoy growing a few less common types, the kinds you can’t usually buy fresh in a grocery store. Here are a few recommendations for inspiration:

Read on to learn what to do to keep your crops from bolting and going to seed, and what steps to take once they do.

 

What is Bolting?

Bolting is what happens when a plant transitions its energy from leaf or root production to flowering quickly and going to seed.

If you have ever grown lettuce or other leafy greens, you are probably familiar with the signs. One day your lettuce head is looking on track to grow large luscious leaves, and the next the plant has shot up a thin leggy stem, the leaves suddenly taste bitter, and soon stops producing new leaves altogether.

This can sometimes happen suddenly, causing plants to become leggy, bitter, tough, and generally unpleasant to eat.

When a plant bolts, or “goes to seed,” it means that it has decided to put all of its energy into creating seeds so that it may reproduce.

This physiological response often happens when a plant is stressed. Stress signals that time is short and forces it to transition all of its energy into seed production to ensure an opportunity to create new plants.

Essentially, it recognizes that favorable conditions are lacking to thrive and decides to sacrifice itself for the good of the next generation. It is a basic survival mechanism.

In the case of root crops, this can be a significant problem for root production. Once a turnip has bolted, roots become fibrous and inedible, and growth will slow or stop completely.

Why do Turnips Bolt?

Like many other plants, stress can trigger turnips to bolt, turning greens bitter and stunting roots. Luckily, by identifying the causes of stress, this response can be easily prevented. The key is to create a low stress environment that is easy for plants to thrive in. For brassicas, this means nutrient rich and balanced soil, consistent watering, and cool growing conditions.

A major cause of stress for turnips is poor soil. Planting into soil that is deficient of nutrients can really hinder the plants’ ability to stay healthy and grow robust roots.

To remedy this, take measures prior to planting to ensure your garden bed is rich in the nutrients that your crop needs to thrive.

Turnips do best in soil that is rich in phosphorus and potassium.

Phosphorus is an important nutrient that promotes strong root growth. It converts other nutrients into a usable form so that plant can grow strong robust. To increase phosphorus in the soil, try mixing in bone meal or rock phosphate prior to planting.

Potassium is another important nutrient that strengthens plant cells, increases vigor, and helps plants cope with environmental stressors. Wood ash is a great source of potassium. It is also free if you save the ashes from your wood stove!

Additionally, you can amend nutrient deficient soils with organic matter such as compost or a bit of aged manure but be cautioned that too much nitrogen can cause roots to branch and become misshapen. Because of this, there is no need to apply repeated fertilizer after plants are in the ground.

Turnips also need well drained soils and consistent water throughout growth. An inch of water per week is advised for healthy root development. At the same time, it is important to prevent soil from becoming waterlogged to prevent disease. A drip irrigation system could be a great way to provide consistent water while minimizing the risk of over watering. You can find out more about irrigation here.

Tip: adding a thick layer of straw or hay mulch around plants can help keep the soil from drying out while also allowing water to drain properly.

Turnips are truly a cool weather crop, and the stress caused by excessive heat can also trigger plants to form seed heads. Timing plantings earlier in the spring or growing them as a fall crop can help prevent heat induced bolting.

You can also help to protect plants from overheating by planting in partial shade or by covering with shade cloth when the weather turns hot. Shade cloth comes in different thicknesses and can help control the amount of light and heat that plants receive. Try a shade cloth with a percentage of 30-40% shade.

Mulching will also provide insulation to the soil, keeping soil temperatures cooler around your turnip plants.

When purchasing seeds, you can also look for heat tolerant or bolt resistant varieties.

What to Do When a Turnip Goes to Seed?

Unfortunately, once a plant has gone to seed, the root will cease growth and become very woody and tough. If this occurs really early in the growth cycle, it may not have had a chance to produce much of a root at all. The greens will turn bitter and will no longer be enjoyable to eat. For harvesting purposes, your plant is essentially unusable.

At this point, you have two choices. You can either pull up your plants and throw them in your compost pile or leave plants in the garden to let them self-seed.

If you can afford the space to leave the roots to break down naturally in the garden, this is a good choice, as it will help build up the nutrient quality of your soil for the future, as well as loosen compacted soil. And you may even get some self-seeded turnips springing up here and there!

The easiest fall flowers to grow in Arizona (and other mild winter climates) are simple to plant and care for, and bloom through spring.

If you’re wondering which fall flowers to plant in the Phoenix valley and surrounding areas, this post shares my top ten picks for easy-growing cool-season annual flowers.

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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10 Easiest Flowers to Grow in Arizona in the Fall

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The oppressive heat of an Arizona summer is (almost!) gone. Heat-tolerating flowers have mostly survived, but they are definitely looking tired. It’s time to swap them out for new flowers that will grow and thrive during Arizona’s cooler months. The options seem overwhelming and you may ask yourself: 

• What are the easiest flowers to grow in Arizona in the fall? 
• Which flowers can I plant from transplant in the fall that grow well through spring?
• Which flowers can I plant in the fall that will last through spring? 
• Which flowers are simple to care for? 
• Are there annual flowers that grow well in pots and containers? 
• Which flowers can I buy from a big box store that will grow well and not die in a couple of weeks? 

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Here are my 10 choices for the easiest flowers to grow in Arizona in the fall:

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1. Snapdragons

Good to know: Attracts bees and butterflies. One of the easiest cool-season flowers to grow. Cutting the central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Excellent cut flower.

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2. Blue Salvia

Good to know: Reseeds. Attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. Several colors and varieties. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Pairs well with lobelia.

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3. Geranium

Good to know: Remove flowers for the first few weeks to allow the plant to get established. Keep dead-headed for better blooms. Does best with regular water and 4-6 hours of sun. Pairs well with alyssum.

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4. Petunias

Good to know: Pinch off flowers when first planted to encourage root development. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Easy to grow. Needs regular watering. 

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5. Gazania

Good to know: Considered a perennial flower, but often grown as an annual in the low desert of Arizona.

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10 Easiest Flowers to Grow in Arizona in the Fall (continued)

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6. Alyssum

Good to know: Easy to grow. Grows well in the sun or part shade. Reseeds easily. Attracts many beneficial insects and pollinators. Pairs well with geraniums.

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7. Dianthus

Good to know: Easy to grow. Edible. Comes in many colors.

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8. Marigold

Good to know: Good companion plant in the garden. Reseeds easily. Easy to grow. Needs regular water. Cutting the central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

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Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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9. Pansies and Violets

Good to know: Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Edible. Easy to grow. Needs part shade.

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10. Lobelia

Good to know: Prefers part sun. Needs regular water. Wait until hot temperatures subside to plant transplants. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Pairs well with blue saliva.

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If this post about the 10 easiest flowers to grow in Arizona in the fall was helpful, please share it:

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You can learn more about the different aloe species by checking out our guide that covers various types.

Now, let’s dive into the step-by-step how-to that will show you how to easily divide these fantastic succulents.

Here’s what’s ahead:

By following these straightforward steps, you can easily divide your A. vera plants and keep them thriving for years.

This process is a great way to keep them healthy and looking their best.

1. Select a Specimen

First, to determine when to divide your aloe plant, you should look for signs of mature pups starting to overcrowd and get cramped in the area where they are planted, either in the ground or in a pot.

Since these succulents are resilient, you can do this any time.

However, I like to divide them during late fall or winter in southern California since it can get sweltering here at other times of year.

I would have to water them more often to encourage root development at times when the soil dries quickly, so it’s better to divide when the weather is cooler.

4. Create Divisions

Use a sharp, clean knife to cut through the roots and separate the offsets from the main plant.

You now have additional succulents that you can cultivate in new pots or garden beds. You may also share your divisions with loved ones!

Also known as smooth or wild hydrangea, H. arborescens serves as an excellent pollinator plant and slope stabilizer in habitat gardens and naturalized ornamental gardens.

Its showy blooms make for an elegant cut flower, fresh or dried. And this species is easy to propagate too.

Let’s get started:

What Are Smooth Hydrangeas?

H. arborescens goes by many names.

Most commonly known as “smooth” or “wild hydrangea,” they are sometimes referred to as “sevenbark” or “tree hydrangea” for the plant’s attractive textured, peeling bark, or even “hills of snow,” in reference to their striking displays of white flowers, sprinkled across hillsides as if they were snow.

Deciduous, mounding shrubs, H. arborescens grow to three to five feet, often growing wider than they are tall.

These dense, multi-stemmed perennials produce clusters of showy green-white flowers.

The delicate yet vibrant flower clusters are the plant’s main appeal, providing abundant blooms throughout summer.

Flowers mature from a greenish-white hue to snow white, then dry to an attractive aged brown before giving way to cup-like seed capsules in fall.

Unlike most hydrangeas, the flower color of wild hydrangeas is not affected by the soil pH.

The multi-stemmed nature of the shrub gives way to full and lush foliage in spring and summer – a gentle thicket of ovular, opposite leaves with pointed tips and toothed margins.

Dark green leaves with pale undersides turn yellow in fall, dropping to the ground in winter to expose the natural, multi-stemmed branching form.

The leaves of H. arborescens are thinner and slightly rougher than that of their cousin, French or big leaf hydrangea, H. macrophylla, though they still provide the same lush green feel to your garden.

H. arborescens is fast-growing, tending towards a suckering habit with new growth pushing up from the base of the plant.

New stem growth appears smooth and tan, but as the plant matures, the  bark crackles and peels back with age.

Cultivation and History

Smooth hydrangeas belong to the Hydrangeaceae family and are kin to about 80 species of other blooming hydrangea shrubs and vines native to North America and Asia.

Smooth hydrangeas are typically found in moist, rocky forested areas, often clinging to the sides of streambanks, hillsides, and ravines.

You can find this species scattered throughout the eastern US, stretching across the southeastern region of the country up to New York.

The genus name Hydrangea means water vessel in Greek, referencing the cup-like seed capsules and the plant’s affinity to water.

The species name, arborescens, calls attention to the tree-like nature of the aged bark of this perennial understory plant.

Used as medicine by the Cherokee people, the bark and leaves of wild hydrangeas have served as an antiseptic to soothe burns and sore muscles, as well as an emetic traditionally thought to alleviate stomach issues and high blood pressure.

Please note that while these indigenous medicinal practices may have been beneficial, the plant is mildly toxic to animals and humans.

Though we honor the indigenous relationships to this plant, we don’t recommend trying these practices at home.

Propagation

H. arborescens can be grown by seed or cutting, but new plants are most easily propagated by root cuttings. Taking fresh cuttings from new growth is optimal.

How to Grow Smooth Hydrangea Bushes

Smooth hydrangeas grow best in part shade, but may adapt to full sun with consistent water and rich soil conditions.

As their name suggests, they are water-loving plants, and without adequate moisture, their leaves will wilt and droop. Intolerant of drought, these plants may require some supplemental summer watering.

Pruning and Maintenance

Smooth hydrangeas are generally low-maintenance plants.

All that’s typically needed is a hard haircut in winter. Cutting the plant down to the ground – with just a few inches of stem remaining – encourages vigorous new growth when the plant wakes up from dormancy.

If you prefer to encourage upward growth you can elect to cut the plant back to one to three feet up from the soil level, but generally, the harder the haircut, the happier the plant.

Come early spring, apply a slow release fertilizer with a balanced NPK ratio (10-10-10) to support strong root systems and healthy new growth.

Managing Pests and Disease

H. arborescens does not typically encounter severe problems caused by pests or disease.

Occasionally, you may confront common garden insects on your plants, such as aphids, spider mites, or scale.

A hard spray-down from the hose will help to alleviate the harm caused by aphids and spider mites, while mechanical removal followed by some soapy water or insecticidal spray is the best treatment for scale.

The most common diseases found on smooth hydrangeas include bud blight, leaf spots, rust, and powdery mildew.

While some fungicides can deter such diseases, the most foolproof (albeit sometimes taxing) form of care calls for manually removing all infected leaves or buds from the plant and landscape so as to prevent spread.

Read more about hydrangea diseases here.

Best Uses for Smooth Hydrangeas

H. arborescens is an excellent woodland shrub for native plant gardens and slope stabilization projects.

Flowers attract butterflies, bees, and other pollinators, while seeds serve as forage for songbirds.

For full effect, plant in swaths or groups to maximize floral abundance, or plant as a specimen species among other attractive shrubs.

These plants look great as a natural garden border, or as a backdrop for lower-growing perennials or annuals.

Needless to say, the plant’s exuberant flower clusters make for an excellent bouquet – fresh or dried!

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Deciduous, flowering woody shrub	Flower / Foliage Color:	White/green
Native to:	Eastern United States	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3a-9b	Tolerance:	Black walnut, erosion, rabbits, clay, sand, rocky soil
Bloom Time:	Summer to fall	Soil Type:	Organically rich
Exposure:	Full sun to part shade	Soil pH:	6.0-7.5
Spacing:	3-5 feet	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	As deep as the root ball and twice as wide	Attracts:	Pollinators and songbirds
Height:	3-5 feet	Uses:	Border planting, native garden, pollinator attractor, slope stabilizer, specimen
Spread:	3-5 feet	Family:	Hydrangeaceae
Growth Rate:	Fast	Genus:	Hydrangea
Water Needs:	Moderate	Species:	arborescens
Common Pests:	Aphids, scale, spider mites	Common Diseases:	Botrytis, leaf spots, powdery mildew, rust

Here’s what we’ll cover:

What Are Collard Greens?

Collard greens are a leafy variety of the Brassica oleracea species, from the Acephala group. The Brassica genus also includes several other veggies like cabbage and broccoli.

In the United States, they grow mainly in the southern states, and are often served with bacon or smoked meats like ham hocks.

Outside of the US, they grow in Brazil, Portugal, and parts of Italy, Spain, and Africa.

Collard greens can be eaten raw or cooked, though cooking them is generally more common.

Don’t let that stop you from adding them to your next salad though! Just wash, de-stem, and be sure to massage the leaves for a soft and tasty texture.

Components of Collards

Aside from being a beautifully green and leafy addition to the garden, they are also highly nutritious! Like most veggies, they are low in calories and high in essential nutrients.

One cup of cooked collard greens has a modest 42 calories. It packs 179 milligrams of calcium, or about 18 percent of the recommended daily intake for adults.

Consuming one cup of the cooked greens also meets 7 percent of your daily magnesium needs, 20 percent of daily dietary fiber needs, 6 percent of phosphorus needs, and 54 percent of vitamin A needs.

Eaten raw, they are just as nutritious, but remember that you need to eat a higher volume to get to the same nutrient totals. Raw, they offer a measly 12 calories per cup.

If you’re looking for a good source of folate, raw greens are recommended over cooked.

One cup of raw greens provides 46 micrograms of folate, where one cup of cooked greens only offers 20.5 micrograms.

‘Georgia Southern’

Want to grow your own? Try these ‘Georgia Southern’ seeds from Eden Brothers.

Seeds can be started indoors, or sown directly in the garden. Learn more about growing your own collard greens here.

Health Benefits of Collard Greens

So, what do all of these numbers and percentages equate to?

A multitude of health benefits!

They are a good source of calcium, which is commonly known to support bone health. Most calcium is used to aid bone structure and function, but it also supports muscle function, nerve contraction, and dilation of veins.

Vitamin A is another key nutrient. Vitamin A allows us to be able to see, by helping to make a protein that absorbs light in our retinas. Additionally, vitamin A supports immune health and cell growth.

They offer a boost of dietary fiber as well. Fiber is important for regulating the digestive system, encouraging the production of helpful gut bacteria, regulating blood sugar, and helping to balance cholesterol levels.

Phytochemicals also play a role in the health benefits that this leafy veggie has to offer.

Indole-3-carbinol or I3C is a phytochemical found in these and other cruciferous vegetables that may be associated with antioxidant and cancer-preventing properties. More research is still needed surrounding this compound and its effects.

Learn how to grow hollyhocks and enjoy a cottage-garden favorite that has been around for a century. Hollyhock’s flowers begin blooming from the bottom of the stalk and move up to the top, producing a long display of color and an almost endless supply of blossoms. Learn how to grow hollyhocks, and you will often have reseeded beds that endure for years. 

Hollyhock flowers can be single or double and come in colors ranging from pink and white to yellow, red and even nearly black. Some old-fashioned types can reach 12 feet tall, while hybrids grow 2 to 8 feet tall. 

Follow these six tips to learn how to grow hollyhocks, and check the end of the post to learn how to grow hollyhocks in Arizona.

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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6 Tips for How to Grow Hollyhocks

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1. Understand how hollyhocks grow

Don’t despair when your seedlings emerge but don’t bloom the first spring. At the end of summer they may seem brown and dead, but don’t pull them out. Trim off dead leaves and stems, and then wait. The plant will overwinter and emerge into spring bloom. Many hollyhocks are considered a biennial, producing clumps of leaves the first year and tall flower stalks the next year. 

Although many hollyhocks are biennial, they often seem to be perennials as fallen seeds germinate and grow each year, producing year after year of flowers. 

Allow seeds to fall around plants to encourage new plants. Self-sown seedlings often make hollyhocks a permanent addition to the garden. Learn how to grow hollyhocks, and you will often have reseeded beds that endure for years. 

What is a biennial? Biennials live for only two years. Normally, biennials germinate from seed and grow strong root systems and foliage the first year. The following growing season, they send up flowering shoots that produce seed and then die.

---

2. Choose the right location to plant hollyhocks

Hollyhocks flourish in sunny locations and prefer moist, fertile, well-drained soil. Plant seeds no more than ¼ inch deep. Allow about 2 feet between and all around plants for good air circulation. 

Use hollyhocks to attract hummingbirds to your garden. Hollyhocks also attract butterflies and serve as host plants for caterpillars.

The flowering stalks of hollyhocks get tall (up to 10 feet) so plant at the back of a border garden or up against a wall. Hollyhock blooms are beautiful as a backdrop for roses, larkspur, dianthus, and bachelor’s button. 

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3. Plant hollyhocks at the correct time

• Start annual seeds in tall individual pots (hollyhocks have long taproots) about 9 weeks before the last frost date for summer bloom.
• Plant seedlings outside 2-3 weeks after the last frost.
• Keep in mind that many hollyhocks are biennials and will not bloom until the following year.  

In the low desert of Arizona:

Start seeds indoors:
August – September
December – January
Plant seeds or transplants outside:
October – November
February – March

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4. How to grow healthy hollyhocks and have more blooms

• Amend the planting area with compost each spring. 
• Water deeply to penetrate the root zone. 
• Pinch or trim off faded blooms before seed pods form. Regular deadheading will encourage more flowers because it encourages energy to shift from seed production to flower production. 
• Remove damaged and dead leaves to keep the plant healthy and looking better. 

---

5. How to prevent and treat rust on hollyhocks

• Water plants at ground-level (not overhead) to keep water off leaves.
• Allow about 2 feet between plants to allow for good air circulation; planting plants too close together can encourage rust.
• Remove and discard (not in compost) affected leaves.
• Clean up debris around plants, and remove weeds.
• Remove heavily infested plants.
• Fungicides such as sulfur or copper are organic options if you decide to treat. I like this copper fungicide from Amazon. 

---

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6. What to do after hollyhocks flower

• If you want seeds in place for next spring, let a few stalks produce and drop seeds in place. 
• Cut stalks back to about 6 inches above the ground. 
• To harvest extra seeds for sharing or adding to other areas of the garden, simply gather seeds when the seed pods are completely dry and brown. 
• Divide and transplant smaller plants from around the base of plant. Self-sown plants may or may not resemble the parent plant. 

---

How to grow hollyhocks in Arizona

Start seeds indoors:

August – September

December – January

Plant seeds or transplants outside:

October – November

February – March

Prune spent hollyhock stalks back to about 6 inches tall in the fall, and remove all spent plant material from around plants to discourage pests and diseases.

Hollyhocks do best with morning or filtered afternoon sun. The heat of a west-facing wall would probably be too intense for hollyhocks to survive the summer after blooming. In my yard, the hollyhocks that do best are on a north-facing wall. 

Hollyhocks bloom from April through June or July. 

Divide and replant hollyhocks in the late fall when temperatures cool off.

---

Want to add more color to your garden with flowers?

---

If you enjoyed this post about how to grow hollyhocks, please share it:

---

Learn how to grow hollyhocks and enjoy a cottage-garden favorite that has been around for a century. Hollyhock’s flowers begin blooming from the bottom of the stalk and move up to the top, producing a long display of color and an almost endless supply of blossoms. Learn how to grow hollyhocks, and you will often have reseeded beds that endure for years. 

Hollyhock flowers can be single or double and come in colors ranging from pink and white to yellow, red and even nearly black. Some old-fashioned types can reach 12 feet tall, while hybrids grow 2 to 8 feet tall. 

Follow these six tips to learn how to grow hollyhocks, and check the end of the post to learn how to grow hollyhocks in Arizona.

---

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

---

6 Tips for How to Grow Hollyhocks

---

1. Understand how hollyhocks grow

Don’t despair when your seedlings emerge but don’t bloom the first spring. At the end of summer they may seem brown and dead, but don’t pull them out. Trim off dead leaves and stems, and then wait. The plant will overwinter and emerge into spring bloom. Many hollyhocks are considered a biennial, producing clumps of leaves the first year and tall flower stalks the next year. 

Although many hollyhocks are biennial, they often seem to be perennials as fallen seeds germinate and grow each year, producing year after year of flowers. 

Allow seeds to fall around plants to encourage new plants. Self-sown seedlings often make hollyhocks a permanent addition to the garden. Learn how to grow hollyhocks, and you will often have reseeded beds that endure for years. 

What is a biennial? Biennials live for only two years. Normally, biennials germinate from seed and grow strong root systems and foliage the first year. The following growing season, they send up flowering shoots that produce seed and then die.

---

2. Choose the right location to plant hollyhocks

Hollyhocks flourish in sunny locations and prefer moist, fertile, well-drained soil. Plant seeds no more than ¼ inch deep. Allow about 2 feet between and all around plants for good air circulation. 

Use hollyhocks to attract hummingbirds to your garden. Hollyhocks also attract butterflies and serve as host plants for caterpillars.

The flowering stalks of hollyhocks get tall (up to 10 feet) so plant at the back of a border garden or up against a wall. Hollyhock blooms are beautiful as a backdrop for roses, larkspur, dianthus, and bachelor’s button. 

---

3. Plant hollyhocks at the correct time

• Start annual seeds in tall individual pots (hollyhocks have long taproots) about 9 weeks before the last frost date for summer bloom.
• Plant seedlings outside 2-3 weeks after the last frost.
• Keep in mind that many hollyhocks are biennials and will not bloom until the following year.  

In the low desert of Arizona:

Start seeds indoors:
August – September
December – January
Plant seeds or transplants outside:
October – November
February – March

---

---

4. How to grow healthy hollyhocks and have more blooms

• Amend the planting area with compost each spring. 
• Water deeply to penetrate the root zone. 
• Pinch or trim off faded blooms before seed pods form. Regular deadheading will encourage more flowers because it encourages energy to shift from seed production to flower production. 
• Remove damaged and dead leaves to keep the plant healthy and looking better. 

---

5. How to prevent and treat rust on hollyhocks

• Water plants at ground-level (not overhead) to keep water off leaves.
• Allow about 2 feet between plants to allow for good air circulation; planting plants too close together can encourage rust.
• Remove and discard (not in compost) affected leaves.
• Clean up debris around plants, and remove weeds.
• Remove heavily infested plants.
• Fungicides such as sulfur or copper are organic options if you decide to treat. I like this copper fungicide from Amazon. 

---

---

6. What to do after hollyhocks flower

• If you want seeds in place for next spring, let a few stalks produce and drop seeds in place. 
• Cut stalks back to about 6 inches above the ground. 
• To harvest extra seeds for sharing or adding to other areas of the garden, simply gather seeds when the seed pods are completely dry and brown. 
• Divide and transplant smaller plants from around the base of plant. Self-sown plants may or may not resemble the parent plant. 

---

How to grow hollyhocks in Arizona

Start seeds indoors:

August – September

December – January

Plant seeds or transplants outside:

October – November

February – March

Prune spent hollyhock stalks back to about 6 inches tall in the fall, and remove all spent plant material from around plants to discourage pests and diseases.

Hollyhocks do best with morning or filtered afternoon sun. The heat of a west-facing wall would probably be too intense for hollyhocks to survive the summer after blooming. In my yard, the hollyhocks that do best are on a north-facing wall. 

Hollyhocks bloom from April through June or July. 

Divide and replant hollyhocks in the late fall when temperatures cool off.

---

Want to add more color to your garden with flowers?

---

If you enjoyed this post about how to grow hollyhocks, please share it:

---