Category: Home & Garden

Brace yourselves for a flurry of laughter and an avalanche of humour as we dive headfirst into these cool winter jokes for kids!

The best winter jokes and winter puns

Winter might send shivers down your spine, but these winter puns are here to melt your heart and warm your spirits on winter days. Whether you’re bundled up by the fireplace or braving the cold, our fun winter jokes will have you chuckling all season long.

We’ve also included some perfect winter captions for instagram and TikTok posts, plus a roundup of winter riddles to get everyone thinking.

So, grab a hot cocoa, wrap yourself in a cosy blanket, and get ready to explore winter wit and frosty fun with this collection of winter jokes for kids.

Funny winter jokes for kids

Let’s kick things off with a frosty selection of winter jokes for kids.

1. What do you get if you cross a wizard and a blizzard? A cold spell.

2. How do you organise a fantastic winter party? You sleigh it!

3. What did the snow say to the road? “I’ve got you covered.”

4. Why did the winter month make a great detective? Because it always uncovered cold hard facts.

5. What did the man say after he slipped and fell on ice? Nothing, he just gave everyone the cold shoulder.

6. What did the winter month say to the spring month? “Don’t hurry; I’m still chilling.”

7. What’s the best thing to put on a burger in winter? Chilly sauce.

8. What’s the most popular Mexican dish in winter? Brrr-itos.

9. How do snowmen get information? They use the winter-net.

10. What did the tree say after a long winter? “What a re-leaf!”

11. What kind of cake topping is best for winter? Lots of icing.

12. Why did the bear keep losing his job? He always disappeared in winter.

13. What do you call a bird in winter? Brrrr-d.

14. What’s the best meal to eat in an igloo? Brr-eakfast.

15. Why did Elsa fall off her sleigh? She let it go.

16. What do you call a frozen crocodile? A croc-ice.

Silly winter jokes for kids

Dial up the giggles with some silly winter jokes for kids.

17. How do you catch a squirrel in the winter? Climb a tree and act like a nut!

18. Why do winter socks never like to make plans? They’re afraid of getting cold feet.

19. Why was the winter coat always in a hurry? Because it wanted to zip through life.

20. What’s an Ig? An ice house without a loo.

21. What’s a penguin’s favourite relative? Aunt Arctica.

22. Why did the winter month take so long to make a decision? Because it was snow-flakey.

23. Why did the skier bring a ladder to the mountain? Because they heard the slope was steep.

24. What did one icicle say to the other? “Stop hanging around, we’re melting here!”

25. How did the snow globe feel after hearing a scary story? Shaken up.

26. What’s the biggest problem with snow boots? They melt.

27. Why do winter months make great teachers? Because they always have snow-ledge.

28. What’s the best school lesson in winter? Snow and tell.

29. Where do winter foxes go to buy new tails? A re-tail store.

30. What do you do when your ice house falls apart? Just igloo it back together.

31. What’s white and goes up? A confused snowflake.

Cold weather jokes

Don’t let wintry weather dampen your spirits – take a look at these funny jokes about winter and cold weather instead.

32. Why did the winter break up with fall? Because it felt too icy.

33. Which is faster: hot or cold? Hot, because you can catch a cold.

34. What did the snow say to the mountain? “You’re hill-arious!”

35. How does a snowflake apologise? It says, “I’m sorry for being flaky.”

36. What do you call a skeleton that goes out in the cold? A numb-skull. (more skull jokes here)

37. What did the winter hat say to the warm woolly scarf? “You hang around while I go on ahead.”

38. What did the ice say to the mountain? “You’re a bit of a slippery slope!”

39. What do you call a winter temper tantrum? A meltdown.

40. Why do skeletons hate the cold? Because the wind goes right through them. (more skeleton jokes here)

41. What did one snowflake say to the other? “You’re one of a kind.”

42. What do you call it when Jack Frost ignores you? The cold shoulder.

43. What did the police officer say to the robber on a winter day? “Freeze!”

44. What do snowmen win at the Olympics? Cold medals.

45. What do you call a slow skier? A slope-poke.

46. What did the icy road say to the truck? “Wanna go for a spin?”

47. What’s cooler than being cool? Ice cold.

48. What’s the coldest month of the year? Decembrrrr.

Winter dad jokes

We couldn’t have a list of winter puns without some good old winter dad jokes!

49. Why do birds fly south for the winter? Because it’s too far to walk.

50. How do you stay warm in a cold room during winter? Go to the corner; it’s always 90 degrees.

51. What’s a snowflake’s favourite game? Freeze tag.

52. How do you stay warm in the winter? Don’t go where it’s cold!

53. Why did two new friends walk out onto a frozen pond together? It was a good way to break the ice.

54. What do snow parents call their kids? Chill-dren.

55. Why did the man pour warm water on his computer? He wanted to stop Windows being frozen.

56. Which side of polar bears has the most fur? The outside.

57. Why did the snowman go to the doctor? He had chills.

58. What do you get if you cross a snowman with a baker? Frosty the dough-man.

59. Why did the woman cancel her plans for a winter hike? She got cold feet.

60. Where do snowmen read the weather report? On the winternet.

61. What athlete is warmest in winter? A long jumper.

62. How do mountains stay warm in winter? They put on snowcaps.

63. What’s white, has sharp teeth and tastes minty? A polo bear.

Winter knock knock jokes

64. Knock Knock. Who’s there? Ice. Ice who? Ice see you!

65. Knock Knock. Who’s there? Frostbite. Frostbite who? Frostbite your food, then chew it!

66. Knock Knock. Who’s there? Icy. Icy who? Icy a big polar bear up ahead!

67. Knock Knock. Who’s there? Freeze! Freeze who? Freeze a jolly good fellow!

68. Knock knock. Who’s there? Snow. Snow who? Snow use, I’ve forgotten my name again!

69. Knock Knock. Who’s there? Ice cream. Ice cream who? Ice scream if you don’t let me back inside!

Cold winter jokes about snowmen

Whether it’s snowing or not, there’s always room for a few snowman jokes.

70. What do you get when you cross a snowman and a dog? Frostbite.

71. How do snowmen get around? They ride an icicle.

72. What do you call a snowman with a six-pack? An abdominal snowman.

73. Why did the snowman bring a broom to the party? He wanted to sweep the competition.

74. What’s a snowman’s favourite cereal? Frosties.

75. What’s a snowman’s second favourite cereal? Ice Crispies.

76. What’s a snowman’s third favourite cereal? Frosted Wheats.

77. What do you call a snowman with a temper? An icebreaker.

78. What do they sing at a snowman’s birthday party? Freeze a jolly good fellow.

79. What do snowmen eat for breakfast? Frosted flakes.

80. Why was the snowman’s dog called Frost? Because Frost bites!

81. What’s a snowman’s favourite makeup? Ice-shadow.

82. What do snowmen eat for lunch? Icebergers.

83. What’s a snowman’s favourite drink? Iced tea.

84. Where does a snowman keep his money? In a snow bank.

85. How do you scare a snowman? You get a hairdryer.

86. What do you call a snowman in the summer? A puddle.

87. What did one snowman say to the other snowman? “Do you smell carrots?”

88. What do snowmen do at the weekend? Just chill.

89. Why was the snowman looking through the carrots? He was picking his nose.

90. What do you call a snowman on rollerblades? A snowmobile.

91. What do snowmen wear on their heads? Ice caps.

92. What’s a snowman’s favourite dessert? Ice cream.

93. How do snowmen greet each other? “Ice to meet you!”

94. What do you get when you cross a snowman and a vampire? Frostbite.

95. What did the snowman say to the other snowman? “You’re cool.”

96. Why did the snowman call his friend on a sunny day? Because he was feeling a little melt-down.

97. What do you call a snowman with a tan? A puddle.

98. How do you know if there’s a snowman in your bed? You wake up with frostbite.

99. What did the snowman say to the aggressive carrot? “Get out of my face!”

100. Why do snowmen always get invited to parties? Because they’re cool characters.

101. How do you make a snowman disappear? Give him a warm hug!

102. What do you call a snowman in July? A puddle.

103. Why don’t snowmen ever get in trouble? Because they’re so cool under pressure.

104. What do you call a snowman party? A snow ball.

105. How do you make a snowman? Just roll with it.

106. What does a snowman take when he’s feeling sick? A chill pill.

107. What did the snowman use to fix his house? Igloo.

108. What do you call a snowman that’s past its prime? Water.

Winter riddles

These winter riddles will give kids – and grown-ups! – a good brain workout.

109. I get closer to the ground as I grow.  What am I? An icicle.

110. What kind of ball doesn’t bounce?  A snowball.

111. What falls but never gets hurt? Snow.

112. After you go through a fall I take over. All life will stall, or grow slower. What am I? Winter.

113. What kind of cold makes you hot? The common cold.

114. I am a cold man without a soul. Warm me up, and I will die. What am I? A snowman.

115. What bites but doesn’t have teeth? Frost.

116. What can be a bed, a cap, and a bank at the same time? Snow.

117. What can you catch with your eyes closed in winter? A cold.

118. I fly when I’m born, lie when I live, and run when I die. What am I? Snow.

119. What kind of crystals don’t break when they hit ground? Snowflakes (they are ice crystals).

120. What do December, January and February have in common? The letter ‘R’.

Funny winter captions for instagram and TikTok

Sharing your winter pictures on social media?  Use these funny winter captions to add extra warmth. They’re perfect for greetings cards too.

121. Don’t give me the cold shoulder.

122. Snow many memories, so little time.

123. Ski you on the slopes!

124. I’m frost in the cool music.

125. Sweater weather is better weather.

126. Get snowver it.

127. I’m snow deep in thought.

128. I’m snow angel, I promise.

129. Chillin’ like a villain.

130. Cold hands, warm heart.

131. Baby, it’s cold outside.

132. Ice appreciate your friendship.

133. Hot cocoa is the answer to everything.

134. Let’s snuggle and get cosy.

135. I’ve got ice in my veins.

136. Sleigh my name, sleigh my name.

137. Fleece Navidad!

138. Dressed to chill.

139. Keep calm and winter on.

140. The cold never bothered me anyway.

Winter puns

These winter puns are perfect for a seasonal play on words.

141. Winter is snow much fun!

142. Chill out and stay frosty.

143. Say freeze!

144. Fleece be with you.

145. The frost to know.

146. Keeping my cool.

147. If looks could chill.

148. There she froze.

149. I cold you so.

150. Life’s a freeze.

151. Chills and spills.

152. Love at frost sight.

153. For cold time’s sake.

154. An ice thing about winter.

155. Freeze the day.

156. Colder and wiser.

157. Strike a froze.

158. All is not frost.

159. Freeze things happen.

160. Chilly season.

161. The winter takes it all.

162. Freeze don’t go.

163. It’s a winterful life.

Ice puns

How about a few ice puns to give you the chills? Head this way for more funny ice puns.

164. Ice to see you again!

165. Have an ice day!

166. It’s ice to meet you.

167. Let’s have an ice day out.

168. Once or ice.

169. Ice and easy.

170. Words hail me.

171. Head over hails.

172. Heads or hails?

173. An icicle made for two.

174. That’s not how ice see it.

175. Let’s ice things up.

176. Don’t be a thaw loser.

177. A sight for thaw eyes.

178. Ice see what you did there.

Snow puns for winter giggles

Celebrate snow days with some chilly snow jokes.

179. I’m snow excited for winter!

180. You’re snow special to me.

181. I’m flaking out.

182. You’re snow joke.

183. It’s snow problem.

184. You’re snow-tally awesome.

185. Snow doubt about it.

186. I told you snow.

187. You’re snow good at this.

188. Snow time like the present.

189. Sleigh all day, every day.

190. I’m snow sure about that.

191. You’re snow sweet!

192. Snow place like home.

193. You snow the drill.

194. Snowbody does it better.

195. You’re snow much fun to be with.

196. I’m flaky, and I know it!

197. That’s very snow-tivating.

198. I’m snow in love with you.

199. I’m snowver the moon!

A really great final winter pun

200. These winter puns really are snow joke!

We hope that this flurry of kids winter jokes brightens up your frosty days. Keep these winter puns handy for sharing with friends and family around the fireplace, and remember, laughter is the best way to beat the winter chill!

More winter fun

Keep the winter fun going with these handy resources:

Free printable winter outdoor play ideas

Get everyone enjoying themselves outside with our free printable winter play ideas.

Winter nature crafts

All of these winter nature crafts are free or very low cost.

Winter quotes

A bumper roundup of inspiring and beautiful winter quotes.

Christmas jokes for kids

Festive giggles and silly jokes abound in this list of holiday jokes for kids.

Pin for later: best winter jokes for kids and winter puns

Hello! This is Deb Jedynak, a Master Gardener living in Zone 6b, Holland, Michigan. Although autumn has crept in to allow summer to fade away, I’m still planting in the garden. The soil stays warm for a while longer, and it’s the best time to plant bulbs, perennials, shrubs, and trees. I can already visualize my constantly evolving garden next spring. The foliage and flowers were abundant in 2023, and journaling my successes makes it easier to plan for next season. The winter months are weeks away, and it’s the best time to consider planting opportunities and researching which perennials and shrubs thrive best in my zone. Since I live just steps from Lake Michigan, I’m figuring out ways to create a microclimate where I can push the growing zone for abelia, beautyberry, and azalea, three shrubs I’ve just added this year. My whimsical garden featured vegetables in raised beds, a hopscotch topiary garden, a 12-foot rowboat filled with perennials, seating areas, a firepit, a plant ladder, arbors, various containers, and decor that I’ve thrifted. There’s always something to look at as you stroll the paths that wind around the flower beds. The transitions are intentional, and I don’t get too attached to my plants as I move them around or eliminate the nonperformers altogether. The idea is to have fun in the garden, and these photos show you my most memorable moments!

A gorgeous peony (looks like Paeonia ‘Bartzella’, Zones 3–8)

Part of Deb’s creative garden

A 12-foot rowboat filled with plants makes quite a statement in the garden.

Purple petunias (Petunia hybrid, annual) in a cute little planter

A vase overflowing with peonies makes for a magical little scene.

Could this rose be any more perfect?

A garden chair becomes a plant stand for a pot full of annual flowers.

A beautiful mourning cloak butterfly takes a rest. The caterpillars of the mourning cloak feed on willows, poplars, elms, and other tree leaves.

A little garden bridge over a pool of gravel

A “plant ladder” makes a creative way to display containers of plants so that each one is visible and not blocked by those in front.

Deb sent in so many great photos that we’re going to revisit her garden tomorrow!

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

The verb “to schlep” seems peculiarly suited to New York City, and a walk from the Garment District through Hell’s Kitchen towards the Hudson River is quite a schlep. Of course, there are other ways to get to North Javits, the events consortium’s latest addition on 11th Avenue, such as via Hudson Yards, at the end of the High Line. There have been some proper pockets of greening on Manhattan’s west side over the last decade and a half (including the addition of Little Island, a garden pier by 14th Street), but the sights and sounds around this part of town still mainly consist of shiny new skyscrapers and relentless drilling.

It is a great relief, then, for a visitor to step out on to the one-acre roof that is the Farm at the Javits Center, established in 2021 in a collaboration with Brooklyn Grange. The most noticeable sound is the chirping of crickets.

Photography by Valery Rizzo for Gardenista.

The people at the Javits Center are smart, and from the beginning they sought the input of Brooklyn Grange, experts in large-scale rooftop farms. (See the rooftop garden they designed for Vice Media here.) This one is only entering its third year but it doesn’t take long to establish an ecosystem. Up here on the fourth floor, the senses are immediately focused on the macro: a grasshopper jumping, a mix of honeybees and solitary native bees working on late-blooming celosia flowers.

The roof gardens at North Javits were implemented at the same time as the new building’s construction, and they have benefitted from forward planning. Beds of different depths accommodate fruit trees in three feet of soil, as well as rows of leafy crops and perennial shrubs of currants and berries in beds that are 12-18 inches deep. Excess rainwater runs into a tank under the roof (with a holding capacity of 344,000 gallons) where it is filtered and returned to the farm for irrigation.

The Farm at the Javits Center is the definition of “state of the art” with a pavilion shaped like an airline hangar that can seat several thousand people. It is glazed at either end for maximum views of the farm-to-table experience, with a smooth terrace around it for outdoor gatherings. Should weather suddenly change, giant “garage doors” open or close in 45 seconds.

With all this infrastructure and tons of space, the events space and farm can accommodate the most precise requirements. They can produce tomatoes of a certain diameter on a specific date; it’s a scientific approach to growing and feeding. The chefs pride themselves on their growing proficiency at “total food utilization practices,” traditionally known as pickling, canning and freezing. Inevitable excess goes to Rethink Food and other donation partners.

The ambition and scope of the foodscape operated by Brooklyn Grange includes a hydroponic greenhouse for winter productivity. The biodiversity of the food forest, part of the 38-tree orchard, creates a more complex and resilient space in which to grow food for people and other species—all of whom desperately need green infrastructure in any built environment.

Here are a few pictures:

It was a blast. The nursery was well-stocked, the people were wonderful, the food was great, the PA worked well, plus we got to meet a lot of new people.

Our attendance was somewhere around 500+. What a blast! My sister Jessica and her husband Solomon are the ones in the picture at the top, with my son in between them. She took the pictures, since there was no way I could do anything, since I was socializing the entire day!

Thanks to all of you that came. And for those that didn’t, we hope to see you in 2024 at SCRUBFEST III!

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Finding crops that survive Arizona’s hot and dry summers can be challenging. However, due to its heat and drought tolerance, the tepary bean (Phaseolus acutifolius) has thrived in this climate for thousands of years. Learn how to grow tepary beans and add this tasty crop to your summer and monsoon garden.

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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What makes tepary beans well-suited to grow in the desert?

Tepary beans prefer warm weather and are well-suited for hot climates. The history of these legumes in Arizona dates back about 1000 years in Hohokam culture. These sturdy beans tolerate arid conditions and can survive with minimal irrigation, making them perfect for regions with limited rainfall. 

Here are some of the adaptations that allow tepary beans to grow so well:

• The reproductive cycle from blossom to bean happens quickly, allowing them to use moisture when available. 
• Their roots also grow deep, allowing the plant to access water unavailable to other more shallow-rooted crops. 
• Amazingly, the pollen in tepary bean flowers is viable at temperatures above 105°F (40°C). 
• The leaves track the sun and “tilt parallel” to lower the surface temperature of the plant. 

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Planting tepary beans

Tepary beans are smaller than typical dry beans and come in various colors, from white to brown to black. Seeds are available from Native Seeds Search online. 

Traditionally, tepary beans are planted with the monsoon moisture in July or early August. You can also plant in March for a less-traditional earlier harvest. 

When choosing a location to grow tepary beans, make sure the soil is loose and well-draining. If you have clay soil, amend it with compost to improve drainage and prevent rotting. 

Plant the seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep and 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) apart. Allow the beans room to bush and vine. You can grow up a trellis if desired. Tepary beans can grow in full-sun conditions. 

Try growing tepary beans as a companion plant or cover crop (similar to cowpeas). I’ve grown tepary beans with corn and okra. The beans vine and climb up the plants quickly. 

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Tepary bean growing tips

If it doesn’t rain, water deeply but infrequently. Excess water produces lush, vegetative growth but fewer beans. 

Tepary beans are generally resistant to pests. However, tepary beans can harbor bean common mosaic virus that can transfer to other beans. Monitor plants for signs of disease. Symptoms include mosaic patterns on the leaves, along with puckering or curling. Pull and destroy affected plants. 

As the beans grow, blossoms will develop, and then the beans will form. Once the pods begin drying out, discontinue watering. 

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Harvesting and storing tepary beans

Tepary beans typically mature in 60-120 days and are ready for harvest when the pods turn dry and brittle. For small amounts of beans, hand pick the seed pods. 

To harvest the tepary beans from larger plantings:

• Cut the plant off at soil level when most pods are dry (but before they split open). 
• Place plants on a tarp or sheet in a dry location long enough to allow the remaining pods to dry. 
• As the pods dry in some varieties, they will open, releasing the beans. If the pods do not release the beans naturally, crushing the plant can help the beans to drop. 
• Collect the sizeable dried-out plant matter, shake out any additional beans.
• Sift/winnow the beans from the chaff.

Tip: Use the dried-out plant material as mulch on your garden beds. The leaves will quickly break down, adding organic matter to your soil.

Allow beans to dry for about two weeks. Store the dried beans in airtight containers in a cool, dark place to maintain their quality and extend their shelf life.

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How to use tepary beans 

Tepary beans have a slightly nutty flavor and a creamy texture when cooked. Here are a few suggestions on how to use and enjoy them:

• Add cooked tepary beans to salads, soups, or stews, or chili for a delicious and protein-packed meal.
• Mash cooked beans with garlic, herbs, and spices to create a flavorful bean dip.
• Use tepary beans as a filling for tacos or burritos, combined with your favorite vegetables and seasonings.

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Sources I used for information about tepary beans: 

https://plants.usda.gov/DocumentLibrary/plantguide/pdf/cs-pg_phac.pdf

https://ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/dry-beans/bean-common-mosaic/

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Butterfly weed is easy to care for, low maintenance, and also grows very quickly.

This gorgeous butterfly and bee-friendly plant adds color to any landscape, and is great for beginners. But it still needs the right attention and environment to thrive.

In this detailed guide you’ll learn all about how to care for butterfly weed. You’ll find tips on water, light, soil, pruning, and so much more.

Butterfly Weed Quick Care Overview

Scientific name:	Asclepias tuberosa
Classification:	Perennial
Common names:	Butterfly Weed, Butterfly Milkweed
Hardiness:	Zones 3-11
Temperature:	65-85°F (18-29.4°C)
Flowers:	Orange, red, yellow, white, blooms in the summer
Light:	Full sun
Water:	Allow soil to dry between waterings, do not overwater
Humidity:	Little to high, very tolerant
Fertilizer:	Diluted general purpose liquid fertilizer in late spring
Soil:	Fast-draining, sandy, or rocky soil
Common pests:	Milkweed aphids

Information About Butterfly Weed

Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a herbaceous perennial that is native to the Northern and Eastern United States. It’s a relative to common milkweed.

It grows from a thick, deep taproot, and reaches heights up to 3’ with an average width of 2’.

Thick, arrow-shaped green foliage forms along the upright stems. In the summer, clusters of colorful flowers form at the tips.

The bright blooms are attractive to many pollinators like bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. It’s also a host plant for monarchs, earning its second common name, butterfly milkweed.

Different Types Of Butterfly Milkweed

There are many types of butterfly milkweed to choose from, but thankfully they can all be cared for in the same way. Here are a few of the most popular cultivars.

• Western Gold Mix – This 2’ tall plant grows best in zones 4-8 and produces orange flowers.

• Prairie Gold – This yellow-flowered variety is best for gardeners in zones 4-9 and can grow taller than 2’.

• Gay Butterflies – Enjoy a mix of red, orange, and yellow flowers on this cultivar. It grows in zones 4-11 and reaches 30” tall or more.

• Hello Yellow – The 1-2.5’ stems of this variety feature yellow-gold flowers, and it grows best in zones 3-9.

Flowers

Typically in mid to late summer, butterfly weed will produce clusters of red, orange, white, yellow, or mixed-colored flowers.

The exact time of year they will bloom varies depending on the climate, environment, and cultivar.

The blossoms are small, star-shaped, and lightly fragrant. They’re attractive to hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.

Toxicity

The sap of butterfly weed is considered toxic to cats and dogs if ingested, and it can also be irritating to the skin.

If you’re concerned, it’s best to keep pets away from this plant, and also wear protective glasses and gloves when handling it. To find out more information visit the ASPCA website.

How To Grow Butterfly Weed

Before we get into how to care for butterfly weed, first we need to talk about where it grows best. Choosing a good location is key to achieving long-term health.

Hardiness

Asclepias tuberosa is a very hardy perennial. Some varieties can survive lows of -30°F (-34°C) and highs up to 114°F (42°C). 

They can survive the winter in growing zones 3-11, but in areas where it’s consistently below 40°F (4.4°C), the plant will drop its leaves and go dormant.

Where To Grow Butterfly Weed

Butterfly milkweed is extremely tolerant of a wide variety of locations, and even does well in containers. Simply provide full sun and avoid heavy, clay-based soils.

Whether you keep it in a pot or plant it in the garden, make sure you’re happy with the location. They do not like to be transplanted once established, and the long taproot makes it difficult to relocate them.

Butterfly Weed Plant Care & Growing Instructions

Now that you have the ideal spot in mind, let’s chat about the best butterfly weed care. Use these tips to create the perfect environment for yours to thrive.

Light

Asclepias tuberosa does best in a full sun location with 6 or more hours of direct exposure a day. It can tolerate partial shade, but lack of light usually causes legginess and less blooms.

In very hot climates or during heat waves, intense afternoon sun can cause the leaves to burn or the plant to wilt.

In this case, you can use a shade cloth to protect them during the hottest part of the day to help prevent problems, and irrigate your plant more often.

Water

Butterfly weed is a drought-tolerant plant and they do not like a lot of water, especially once established. Overwatering it can lead to rot and eventually kill the plant.

It’s important to wait until the soil has dried out before giving them another drink, and always make sure your containers drain completely after watering.

Use your finger to test the soil, or get an inexpensive moisture gauge probe. The gauge should read between 3-5 before it’s time to water again. 

Humidity

Another great thing that makes butterfly weed so easy to care for is that they’re tolerant of both high humidity and arid regions.

In very humid areas, space your plants 15-18″ apart to allow for plenty of airflow, which can help to prevent issues with mildew or diseases.

Temperature

The ideal temperature range for growing butterfly weed is between 65-85°F (18-29.4°C), but most cultivars can tolerate ranges between 32-100°F (0-37.7°C). Some varieties can even survive cold down to -30°F (-34°C) or heat up to 114°F (42°C).

Always check the tag to make sure you know what’s best for your particular plant, because some can handle temperature extremes better than others can.

Cold temperatures will cause leaf drop, but the root often survives, especially if you provide some winter protection, like mulch.

In extreme heat, provide afternoon shade and water your plant more often to help prevent sun damage and wilting.

Fertilizer

Butterfly milkweed does not typically need much fertilizer. It thrives in poor soil and adding too many nutrients can actually lead to legginess and less flowers.

At most you can top-dress it with a layer of compost, or add a diluted dose of all purpose liquid fertilizer, a compost tea, or fish emulsion once in the spring.

Soil

Butterfly milkweed can grow in a wide variety of soils, even poor quality ones. Ideally the soil should be sandy, porous or rocky, and well-draining.

If you have very heavy, clay-based garden soil, then mix in compost and coarse sand to improve drainage.

For containers, you can use a fast-draining mix, or amend a general purpose potting soil with sand and perlite or pumice.

Transplanting

Unfortunately, it’s very difficult to transplant butterfly weed. They have a deep taproot and, once fully established, the taproot does not like to be disturbed.

If you’d like to move yours to a new location, you can try to dig it up in the fall or spring, but take extra care not to damage the main taproot.

They can stay in the same container for a long time. Simply cut your containerized plants back in the fall or winter to make room for new growth the following year.

Pruning

Pruning is not a necessary part of butterfly weed plant care, but it can help encourage more blooms, prevent self-seeding, and keep it looking tidy.

Deadhead the spent flowers or damaged stems as you see them throughout the season. Use a sharp, sterile pair of pruners and wear gloves to protect your hands from the potentially irritating sap.

In the fall after flowering, or once it drops all of its leaves, you can cut it back to just above the soil line. That won’t damage the plant, and new growth will emerge in the spring.

Pest Control Tips

Butterfly weed is typically not bothered by many pests, but they can become targets for an orange aphid species, called oleander, or milkweed aphids.

These pests can be treated just like traditional aphids, but I recommend using mild methods of either insecticidal soap or a sharp blast of water.

However, you should treat bug infestations with caution. Asclepias tuberosa is a host plant for monarchs, and spraying the plant with anything, even organic treatments, can disturb or kill the beneficial caterpillars and other pollinators.

Neither the aphids nor the caterpillars feeding on the foliage typically cause enough damage to actually harm the plant, so it’s usually best to leave them alone rather than risk killing any monarch larvae in the process.

Dormancy

Butterfly milkweed will enter a period of dormancy in the fall or winter when the temps drop below freezing and the days get shorter.

The leaves will turn yellow and then fall off, leaving empty stems behind. You can cut the empty stems down to the ground in the fall, or leave them until spring.

When the days get longer and temperatures warm up to above 60°F (15.5°C) in the spring, they’ll come out dormancy. Don’t be alarmed if it takes longer to show new growth than your other plants, it’s very common for them to lag by a few weeks.

Butterfly Weed Propagation Tips

You can propagate butterfly weed from stem cuttings or by planting seeds. They self-seed prolifically once the pods that develop after flowering dry and split open. You can easily collect butterfly weed seeds and use them to start new plants.

To propagate with cuttings, take a healthy 4-5” long piece of stem and remove all but the top leaves. Dip the end in rooting hormone and bury it in a lightly moistened, coarse planting medium.

Keep the cuttings in a warm and humid location out of direct light for several weeks until they have 3-4″ long roots, then pot them up or transfer them into your garden.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Butterfly weed care is usually very easy, even for beginners, but no plant is problem-free. If you run into one of these more common problems, my tips will help you get back on track.

Butterfly Weed Plant Dying

Butterfly weed plants are very hardy, but the main reasons they start dying are from overwatering, or if the main taproot is damaged or severed.

The best way to prevent it is to plant them in well-drained soil and leave them there, rather than trying to move them to a new location.

Overwatering will lead to root or crown rot. A moisture gauge can help you better understand exactly when to water.

Brown Spots On Leaves

Mildew, rust, and insect damage can all lead to brown discolored spots on butterfly weed leaves.

Make sure your plants have plenty of space and airflow, especially in humid climates, and check periodically for aphids. Brown spotting is usually not deadly, just unsightly.

FAQs

Here I’ve answered some of the most commonly asked questions about butterfly weed care. If yours isn’t listed, please add it to the comments section below.

What’s the difference between butterfly weed and milkweed?

The difference between butterfly weed and milkweed is mainly the flowers, foliage, and the size of the plants. Common milkweed has rounded flower clusters that are typically purple, large, wide leaves that are lighter in color, and the plant can grow 6’ tall. While butterfly weed has umbel shaped flowers that range from orange to yellow, white, or red, smaller and darker green leaves, and the plant only gets 2-3’ tall.

Is Asclepias tuberosa good for monarch butterflies?

Yes, Asclepias tuberosa is excellent for monarch butterflies. It’s a host plant where the females will lay their eggs, and the foliage provides food and shelter to the larval caterpillars so they can feed and form their chrysalis.

Is butterfly milkweed invasive?

No, butterfly milkweed is not invasive, it’s actually native to many areas of North America. Unlike common milkweed, it has a taproot and does not form underground runners. However, it can self-seed, but this is easily controlled by deadheading spent flowers.

Does butterfly weed spread?

Butterfly weed can spread by self-seeding if you leave the large pods that form on the plant after it blooms. The pods will eventually dry and open up, scattering the seeds. They do not spread through underground runners like common milkweed does though.

Is butterfly weed hard to grow?

No, butterfly weed is not hard to grow, it’s actually quite easy. It’s very tolerant of different temperatures, soil types, humidity levels, and is typically pest and disease free, making it a low-maintenance option for gardeners.

Does butterfly milkweed come back every year?

Yes butterfly milkweed will come back every year in zones 3-11, where it is a hardy perennial. Some varieties can handle temperatures as low as -30°F (-34°C) during the winter.

If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!

More About Flower Gardening

Share your butterfly weed plant care tips in the comments section below.

You can employ a small home greenhouse or a giant hoop structure to root cuttings, overwinter tender succulent varieties, or perhaps as a year-round home for these easy-care plants.

There is a knack to growing succulents in a greenhouse instead of outdoors in the garden or inside your home, but many of the basic requirements are the same.

Let’s jump right in. Here’s what I’ll cover:

Types of Succulents to Grow in a Greenhouse

A greenhouse haven provides a plethora of benefits for succulent gardeners.

It offers a warm spot for overwintering tender varieties, or for propagating cuttings in early spring.

A greenhouse can protect these easy-care houseplants from the drafts they can’t abide at any time of year, and depending on placement, it may provide the ample light your dwelling lacks.

Many succulents don’t really need the protection that a greenhouse offers, and I would advise against taking the trouble to grow them in a structure unless you live in Zones 1 to 3.

Most types of euphorbia, sedum, and hens and chicks, for example, are hardy to -20°F and can overwinter just fine in a garden bed or outdoor container, so a protected shelter could be a waste.

Many other varieties are frost-tender, however, and you may welcome the chance to maintain a structure where they can grow year-round or overwinter in the cold months. A few in this category include kalanchoe, aloe, haworthia, and living stones.

Also, when you’re thinking about their suitability for greenhouse life, consider how big the plants will grow.

Some varieties may quickly outgrow a small space, including certain types of sansevieria, agave, and the mother of thousands I told you about earlier.

And if you must transition such plants in spring and autumn, the big varieties can be unwieldy and heavy to move in and out.

Trailing succulents can be lovely in a greenhouse, and you may be able to hang them to save space in your home and within the setting. Consider options like donkey’s tail or elephant bush.

The other consideration has more to do with the conditions inside the structure and less with the plants you plan to grow there.

Succulents ordinarily need just 40 percent humidity, though they’ll do okay with 50 percent.

Indoor gardeners often employ greenhouses for growing high-humidity lovers like anthurium.

Alas, succulents have that conflicting need for low to average humidity, so unless you are willing to maintain separate, smaller mini greenhouses for the two different types of plants, you may have to skip one or the other.

Some varieties, like kalanchoe, are oblivious to humidity, so you may choose to grow them alongside hothouse tropicals.

Tips for Growing

A greenhouse isn’t a cure-all for succulents that can’t stay warm enough or receive enough light in other settings.

You’ll still need to provide these optimal growing conditions:

Exposure

Not all light in a greenhouse is created equal. Most succulents need at least six hours of bright, indirect light each day, though they can do with a little less in the winter months.

But direct sun can scald the leaves or kill the colors on variegated foliage. Consider placing the plants in an area of the structure that’s naturally shaded from the afternoon sun, or provide some shade.

Our guide to avoiding greenhouse mistakes has specifics on providing shade where needed.

On the flip side, some areas of the structure, even one made of glass, may not offer enough light. That situation arises when the structure is situated out of direct sunlight or the shelves are arranged in a way that casts shade on the plants.

In this case, you may opt for supplemental light, especially during the shorter winter days. See our grow light guide for some suggestions.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for most succulents is 70 to 75°F during the day, and a little cooler at night.

Of course, the range they can survive is much broader, but in most cases, you’ll want to provide a range between 40 to 80°F and take steps to cool or heat the greenhouse if the temperature falls or rises to either extreme.

You’ll need to watch the weather and check the temperature daily if you’re able, since scalding or freezing can kill the plants very quickly.

Humidity and Air Circulation

Wherever you grow them, most succulent varieties prefer humidity levels around 40 percent and generally no higher than 50 percent.

When there is too much moisture in the surrounding air, the plants are susceptible to root rot and a variety of fungal infections.

Most indoor gardeners balk at installing a dehumidifier in a greenhouse already equipped with supplemental light and heat, and I do, too.

But you can take steps to decrease the humidity by ensuring that water drains into saucers instead of falling on the floor and evaporating into the air. Make sure you empty the saucers outside.

Also, space the plants at least four inches apart to ensure adequate air circulation, allowing the leaves to dry and prevent moist air from building up around them.

Pots and Soil

Succulents from snake plants to living stones require pots with drainage holes made of porous material, like unglazed terra cotta.

The pots should be snug, with soil an inch below the rim so water doesn’t drip off the top without ever reaching the roots.

Well-draining soil is critical for all potted and garden succulents. Without it, they are prone to rotting and susceptible to diseases promoted by excess moisture.

You can learn to make a DIY succulent mix in our guide or use a store-bought preparation. Remember, ordinary yard or garden soil isn’t suitable for these plants.

To keep the roots from sitting in pooled water, it’s also important to water the plants thoroughly when the soil is dry and then allow them to drain into a saucer or tub afterward. Discard any excess.

Placement

It’s critical to arrange your pots so your plants have adequate light and space, according to their needs.

Don’t place small containers directly below hanging baskets for example, or you’ll risk dripping water on the foliage or blocking much-needed light.

Plants may freeze or experience drafts if you set them directly on the ground inside a greenhouse during the winter. They’ll do better on a lower shelf instead of on the cold ground.

Also, as mentioned above, take care to give the plants ample space to discourage excess moisture buildup and humidity that can invite disease.

If you think about it, consider arranging the plants in an eye-pleasing pattern.

After all, you should enjoy their appearance as much in a greenhouse as when they’re growing outdoors or in your home.

Overwintering

To use a greenhouse to overwinter frost-tender succulents, first research the USDA Hardiness Zones for your particular variety, and the average local temperatures from month to month.

You can expect a greenhouse to gain about 10°F of heat in a direct or partial-sun location, but be sure to observe the temperature range in your own structure for at least a few days before relocating plants for the cold months.

And then check the thermometer daily for the rest of the winter to see that it’s maintaining temperatures between 45 to 80°F.

Outdoor temperatures over 70°F or so can damage the plants, so you’ll want to open the vents or windows to cool off on hot days.

Water thoroughly, but only when the soil is entirely dry – but before the leaves start to shrivel.

Overwintering plants still need air circulation, though drafts are a no-no.

Usually, a fan is adequate if you run it at least a couple of hours per day, but don’t open those windows in freezing weather! Even one sub-freezing day can kill most potted succulents.

Just as you would any other container-grown houseplant that spends the summers outdoors, you’ll need to acclimate the plants you’re moving by exposing them to the new conditions for an hour the first day and increasing the amount by a couple of hours each subsequent day over the next three or four days.

In spring, harden off the plants before moving the containers outside full-time or transplanting them back into the garden.

Our guide to growing succulents offers more information on transitioning succulents from outdoors to inside and back out again.

Propagating

When you wish to start new succulents from cuttings or leaves, a greenhouse can be your friend.

It may have more of the bright, indirect light needed for root formation than an average household windowsill, for example.

In early spring in cooler growing zones, a greenhouse provides the temperature boost required to start cuttings from plants just as they’re coming out of dormancy.

And if you’re like me and can’t seem to stop at just a few cuttings, a greenhouse may provide the extra room you need to start (or attempt to start) several trays of succulents simultaneously.

You can learn more about propagating succulents in our guide.

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Are you struggling to keep squirrels off bird feeders in your garden?

These persistent garden visitors can be very entertaining to watch, and many people enjoy having them around. However, squirrels are very clever when it comes to accessing bird feeders, and if you’re not careful, they can consume the majority of the food you put out for wild birds.

If you’re keen to make your garden wildlife-friendly by providing your local birds with a source of food, the local squirrel population can deny other species that support.

How to keep squirrels off bird feeders

In this article, we’ll cover ten humane ways to keep squirrels away from bird feeders without causing them harm.  Read on to find out how you can restore the balance in your garden.

1. Make jumping a non-starter

Squirrels are natural jumpers. If they can reach your feeder by jumping, you’ve got a problem.

Positioning your feeders out of jumping reach is a simple way to make it harder for squirrels to access them.  Make sure you factor in anything they can jump from – including tree trunks, tree branches, shrubs, buildings and garden ornaments.

Also bear in mind that squirrels can jump up to five feet high and up to ten feet horizontally. That’s probably further than you think!

2. Position in an open area

If you’ve positioned your bird feeders out of jumping reach, you may have already found a spot that’s out in the open.  But if not, add this factor in before choosing your final location.

As well as preventing jumping, putting your bird feeders in an open area also creates a less ‘safe’ food source for squirrels.  The lack of cover and increased exposure to possible predators might be enough to make squirrels think twice.

3. Use squirrel proof bird feeders

One of the easiest ways to keep squirrels off your bird feeders is to buy a squirrel proof feeder that’s specifically designed to prevent their access.

Features that deter squirrels include weighted perches, fly-through wire to allow small birds access, and smooth surfaces.  Kingsyard have a wide range of products here: squirrel proof bird feeder | Kingsyard

4. Use a spinning hook

Some people swear by spinning hooks as a squirrel deterrent for bird feeders.  Making a feeder rotate won’t harm squirrels, but it will encourage them to move away.

5. Hang feeders from poles

Squirrels are great climbers, and are capable of clever tricks, but they won’t find a smooth pole particularly easy to scale. Using a squirrel-proof bird feeder pole will mean squirrels have a tough time accessing your bird feeding station.

Hanging your feeders from a plastic or metal pole adds an extra challenge and limits the amount of bird food squirrels can grab.  Avoid wooden poles as these will provide more grip.

6. Use a baffle

The clue is in the name.  Baffles are designed to quite literally baffle squirrels in order to deter them from accessing a feeder.

A squirrel baffle is usually dome, cone or torpedo shaped. It can be attached to the bottom or top of feeders, or to feeder poles.

7. Refill little and often

It’s tempting to fill your feeders to the max, but this approach can encourage pesky squirrels to stick around.

A constant, plentiful supply of food is exactly what squirrels want, so they will make a beeline for your garden and keep coming back. In contrast, feeders that are less generous will encourage them to look for other food sources.

8. Use feed that squirrels don’t like

Apparently squirrels aren’t keen on some types of seed that are used in bird food. These include safflower seeds, niger seed (also called nyjer seed or thistle seed) and white millet.

You could try using feed that contains these seeds to make your feeders less appealing. Products may be labelled as “squirrel proof bird food”.

Another option is to use spicy birdseed that involves hot pepper. While birds won’t notice the heat, squirrels will, and they won’t be impressed.

9. Tidy up regularly

When birds dine at your feeders, seed will inevitably fall to the floor.  This provides squirrels with a low-effort food source at ground level.  And of course, it will also attract rodents.

Regularly clearing up around your backyard bird feeders will stop the problem before it starts.

10. Give squirrels their own feeders

Rather than trying to deter squirrels from bird feeders, you can simply lure them away by providing them with their own dedicated squirrel feeder.

You can buy feeders that are specifically designed for squirrels, and fill them with delicious food that they love, such as peanuts and sunflower seeds.

This is a great option if you love squirrels visiting your garden, but want to give our feathered friends a better chance at accessing their feeders.

As you can see, when it comes to deterring squirrels from bird feeders, you’ve got lots of options. By understanding their limits, and employing some simple tactics, you can keep squirrels out of garden feeders and make sure your outdoor space is a source of food for as many birds as possible.

More wildlife gardening tips

For more advice on making your garden a wildlife haven, take a look at these articles:

Pin for later: how to keep squirrels off bird feeders

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When the summer draws to a close and your homegrown produce is ripe for picking, the real challenge is knowing how to deal with this glut.

Luckily there are lots of ways to store and manage each year’s harvest effectively. Here are some tips to help you make the most of harvest season and minimise waste.

Canning & jarring

Transforming your harvest into shelf-stable creations is a rewarding process. Canning not only extends the life of your produce, but it also allows you to enjoy homegrown goods year-round.

From fruits and vegetables to soups and sauces, nearly every item from your harvest can be safely preserved with this method. If you don’t want to go all-out and acquire canning equipment, using well-sterilised jars will serve just as well.

Once done, you can bask in the knowledge that with each pop of a jar lid, fresh, homemade food awaits you no matter what season.

Freezing produce fresh

Freezing is an excellent strategy for keeping both fruits and veggies tasting garden-fresh long after harvest season has passed.

By blanching vegetables before freezing, you can retain their colour, texture and taste without losing any nutritional value.

With fresh fruit, a simple rinse, pat dry and tray freeze process will do wonders in preserving their quality. So when winter rolls around, your freezer can be your best friend.

Fermentation & pickling

These are age-old processes which not only amplify your food’s taste profile, but fill it with beneficial gut-friendly bacteria too.

Here’s a brief rundown on fermenting and pickling at home:

• Start small: begin by pickling simple veggies such as cucumbers or cabbage before trying other ingredients.
• Sterilise everything: be sure all jars, lids, and tools are squeaky clean for this bacterial reaction.
• Choose your brine: most traditional ferments use saltwater brine, while others may call for dairy or vinegar bases.
• Wait it out: patiently wait until you’ve achieved the desired tanginess, which is typically one to three weeks.

Fermenting also keeps the concept of waste foreign in your household. Left-overs can easily become kimchi, sauerkraut or pickle, making them last longer and be more digestible too!

Kitchen appliances

Don’t overlook your everyday kitchen appliances in the fight against food waste. Your refrigerator, oven, and even dehydrator are powerful tools that can aid in preserving the quality of your harvest bounty.

For instance, you can dehydrate fruits for easy snacking, or use low-heat settings on your oven to dry out herbs and veggies.

Remember also that a well-stocked fridge is key to keeping produce fresh for as long as possible. Just make sure all tools are running smoothly to win at winter storage. If you need any components to fix up misbehaving appliances, you can always order them from PartsCentre.

Give it away

When counters and pantries are overflowing, it might be best to share your bountiful harvest with others. Donating surplus produce to local food banks or community kitchens is a helpful option that reduces waste while helping those in need.

Organising a neighbourhood produce exchange event can also enhance ties within your community, while fostering an appreciation for homegrown foods. Sometimes the most satisfying way of managing abundance is by spreading joy to other tables.

The bottom line

Managing an abundance of food is all about preservation techniques and community sharing. Whether it’s canning creatively, using kitchen appliances effectively, freezing fresh produce, or fermenting for added flavour, each method ensures you enjoy your harvest bounty well into winter. And what can’t be stored should be shared with others, creating a chain of wholesome happiness.

Today we’re off to Canada to visit with Bas Suharto.

I built this garden for Ms. Jeanette in Orleans, Ontario. It started July 5, 2023, from a simple sketch. I discussed with her and proposed the layout on the sketch. The garden is part of the back terrace and is 45 feet by 8 feet. At the very back of the property there is a 45-foot-long cedar hedge. The existing ground is clay soil.

In searching for the plants at various places, sometimes I found more interesting ones to replace what I had proposed on the sketch, or some plants were not available at the local garden centers or nurseries, so I made some changes at the garden.

This is the beginning of the work, day 1. I added garden soil and mushroom compost over the existing weedy clay. I avoid using harmful products to kill the weeds. One of Jeanette’s family members helped me deliver the soil and river stones to the front house.

This is the first day of planting, when I put in boxwoods (Buxus sp., Zones 5–9), bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla, Zones 5–9), ‘Sum and Substance’ hostas (Hosta ‘Sum and Substance’, Zones 3–8), and some annual geraniums (Pelargonium hybrids, Zones 9–11 or as annuals).

Jeanette likes the white flowers of daisies (Leucanthemum × superbum, Zones 5–9), so I planted a row of them along with two Snow Fountains weeping cherries (Prunus ‘Snofozam’, Zones 4–8) on the left side and two dwarf Korean lilac standards (Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’, Zones 3–8).

Along the border of the terrace, I planted hybrid roses ‘Grande Amore’ and ‘Peggy Rockeffeler’. They can grow in Zone 5a of Orleans, Ontario.

I made a “river” of stones to bring rainwater from the roof to the fences and on to the municipal rain drainage. I then planted a row of Hakone grasses (Hakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’, Zones 5–9) to grow over and hide the plastic edging along the side of the gravel.

Next, I installed concrete stepping stones, and along the right border I planted the ornamental grass Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’ (Zones 3–9).

It took me 11 days to finish the garden. Here is a view of it from the balcony of the house.

Pink anemone (Anemone hupehensis, Zones 4–8) and annual geraniums

A look at the finished product

And looking down the length of the garden

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

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To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Fall is upon us and, naturally, thoughts turn to shutting down the garden for winter and planning next year’s plantings. Thing is, as savvy gardeners know, autumn can be a wonderful time to plant perennials, shrubs, and trees. Why?

1. Cooler temps = reduced water needs.

Cooler temps this season reduce the stress on plants (and the humans digging the holes!).  In the spring and summer, the plant is actively growing and its water demand is high. However, in the fall, the plant is getting ready for dormancy, so its need for water is a fraction of that in the summer.

2. The new plant can focus solely on root growth.

When you plant in the spring, the plant’s energy is divided between supporting top growth and repairing and growing new roots. When you plant in the fall, all the plant’s energy is sent to the roots, and you may end up with a healthier and more robust plant that blooms fuller and earlier than its spring planted counterpart. (Plants will continue to grow roots up until the ground freezes.) You’re essentially giving the new plant a head start for next year.

3. Fall means fewer pests munching on plants.

As the weather gets colder, insects turn their focus from feeding on plants to looking for a place to overwinter and to diapause. Diapause is complete physiological dormancy, where the insect “pauses” its metabolism for the winter, as opposed to hibernation, when metabolism merely slows down.

4. And fewer diseases, too.

Most fungi and bacteria require a more moderate temperature range to be active. With temperatures trending lower and fewer available leaves to infect, there’s less chance of new plants getting infected.

Tips for Planting in the Fall

It’s not a perfect tree, though. It does have a few special requirements if you want it to look its best. Don’t worry, we’ll go over all of the pros and cons of this garden favorite.

Part of what I love about ‘Crimson Queen’ is that after the beautiful foliage is done for the year, the twisting branches add visual interest to the winter landscape, and the shape becomes more impressive as the trees age.

If you’re in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8, you’re in luck. ‘Crimson Queen’ can be yours. Coming up, here’s what we will chat about to help you get to know Her Royal Highness:

Can’t wait one minute more? Then let’s jump right in.

Cultivation and History

‘Crimson Queen’ is a weeping Japanese maple cultivar. It’s a standout in the dissectum category, as discussed in our guide to Japanese maple types.

Trees in this group tend to be much smaller than the species and have a more shrubby shape, often with a cascading habit.

‘Crimson Queen’ was bred in the United States in 1965, and rapidly became a commercial success. It won the RHS Award of Garden Merit in 1993.

This dwarf cultivar takes about 15 years to grow to its mature size of about five feet tall and seven feet wide, which may seem slow, but that’s about the average growth speed for any Japanese maple.

It can get a bit taller with ideal sun exposure and moisture, but usually, it doesn’t grow much taller than that. It’s common for the tree to stay much smaller if it’s planted in a shady spot.

If you aren’t afraid of a little pruning, you can train it to be shorter or taller than it would be naturally, and you can encourage a bushier shape or a more upright one.

Looking for a good container option? You found it. The small size and cascading shape of ‘Crimson Queen’ makes it ideal for life in a pot.

When the leaves first emerge in the spring, they unfold into a deep purple-red and shift to bright red over the span of a few weeks. It’s almost like fall in the springtime, and the foliage makes a beautiful contrast to all the bright spring colors.

It lightens just slightly during the summer before putting on a fall show with a bright, fire-engine-red hue.

‘Crimson Queen’ is beloved for its ability to retain its color all summer long, with the exception of occasional leaf scorch or loss of color in hot, sunny areas.

In hot regions, it might take on more of a bronze-green hue in the summer, especially if it’s growing in direct sun.

The leaves are palmate, deeply lobed, finely dissected, with seven to nine lobes, and grow up to four inches tall and wide.

The insignificant flowers appear in the spring and give way to samaras with two wings.

Crimson Queen Propagation

‘Crimson Queen,’ as with many cultivated varieties, won’t grow true from seed.

They are usually grafted rather than grown from seed. Feel free to give it a try if that’s something that interests you – with the understanding that you never know what you might get.

Our guide will walk you through the entire process.

Otherwise, stick to planting purchased plants or taking cuttings. Cuttings don’t always take, so plan on starting multiples just in case a few don’t turn out.

Our guide to growing weeping Japanese maples will walk you through both planting a purchased plant and propagation via cuttings.

The best time of year to do either is the spring or fall. With a newly planted tree, be sure to keep the soil moist but not wet for the first year. The soil should have the same texture as a kitchen sponge that you’ve wrung out really well.

Space trees four feet away on all sides from buildings, other plants, or fences.

How to Grow Crimson Queen Japanese Maple

As with most Japanese maples, this one grows best in loamy, rich, moist soil. It will also tolerate sandy loam. The soil should be slightly acidic, with a pH between 5.5 to 6.5.

After the first year, when the soil should be kept consistently moist, you can allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between watering.

An inch or two of organic mulch, like well-rotted compost or shredded bark, can help the soil retain moisture and it also helps to suppress weeds.

Don’t build up a layer of mulch against the trunk, though. Keep it a few inches away from the trunk itself.

Remember how we talked about the downside of ‘Crimson Queen?’ We’ve come to that part. She’s prone to scorching. If her soil gets too dry or she is planted in a location with too much sun, the leaves will shrivel, turn yellow or brown, and look shabby on the “fingers.”

You can avoid scorching in some trees by keeping them moist and providing afternoon shade. But even if you do that, the tree might still experience leaf scorch if it gets too hot.

This tree really does best in a location with temperate summers, but if you give it afternoon protection from the sun, it should do fine even in warmer regions. If the leaves do suffer from scorch, they will eventually drop, and new foliage will replace them.

That’s all to say that you should plant in partial sun with shade in the afternoon, or in full sun if it doesn’t get too sweltering in the summer in your neck of the woods.

Those in regions with cooler summers like the Pacific Northwest or the northern Atlantic coast can grow these in full sun. If you’re in the West or Midwest, best to provide afternoon shade.

Water is an important part of keeping a ‘Crimson Queen’ happy during the heat, so stay on top of your irrigation routine during warm weather.

I know I said that this tree is suitable for Zones 5 to 8, but you can grow it in Zone 4 if you choose your planting site carefully.

Place it close to a south-facing wall that is protected from strong winds with a cement or brick foundation which will help to keep the roots warm. Add a thick layer of organic mulch in the fall to help protect the roots.

‘Crimson Queen’ maintains a compact size naturally, so it lends itself to container growing. Avoid using light pots made out of plastic or thin metal.

Speaking of irrigation, whether in the ground or a container, avoid splashing water on the leaves. Water should be applied at the ground level to decrease the chances of fungal diseases.

You likely won’t ever need to fertilize your Japanese maple, but if you notice your tree seems to be extremely slow-growing or stunted, do a soil test to check if your soil is seriously deficient in certain nutrients. If it is, amend your soil with the missing nutrients.

If you know your soil is lacking in nutrients, feel free to feed your plant following our guide.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun in cooler climates or afternoon shade in warm climates.
• Water when the top two or three inches of soil dry out.
• Keep plants well-watered during high heat.

Pruning and Maintenance

All Japanese maples need regular pruning to maintain their beautiful appearance, but weeping types need extra attention.

You can encourage the striking shape by pruning out the center of the tree so that there are just three to five main branches.

A crowded crown won’t be as dramatic as one that is carefully curated to include the most beautiful branches that contribute to the shape you want to see.

Some of the most interesting and beautiful Japanese maple specimens out there didn’t happen by chance. They were carefully pruned, especially when they were young, to create a pleasing shape.

If you were to crawl under your tree when it is in full leaf and look up, you should be able to see some sky through the leaves and branches. If you can’t, then your tree is in need of a good pruning.

You can learn all about the process by visiting our comprehensive guide to pruning Japanese maples.

When it comes to disease, watch for anthracnose, powdery mildew, Pseudomonas, root rot, and verticillium wilt.

We cover all of these in our guide to growing Japanese maples.

General signs of a problem are yellowing or brown leaves, wilting, stunted growth, and dropping leaves.

Best Uses for Crimson Queen

‘Crimson Queen’ is the ruler of specimen planting. Just try to look at anything else when she’s draped in her red robe in the summer.

She also makes an excellent container option, whether that’s in a large planter or a tiny little bonsai pot.

This little tree adds shape to the winter landscape and color during spring, summer, and fall.

This orange and cinnamon soap is one of my favourite holiday treats to give away. When you combine uplifting orange with sweet and spicy cinnamon, you get a scent that comes straight from a Hallmark Christmas movie. If you’re feeling festive this year, learn how to make your very own Christmas soap to give away this season.

While this Christmas soap reminds me of the holidays, the orange does bring a sense of freshness and renewal. Sweet orange essential oil reminds me of a hot summer day, which can be a friendly reminder when we’re actually closer to the winter solstice!

Sweet orange is considered a top note in the realm of fragrances, which means it pairs well with warm scents. And cinnamon, as you probably guessed, is a warm note!

Sweet orange brings the season’s joy, while cinnamon brings you the cozy vibes. The blend of cinnamon and orange reminds me of old-fashioned oranges filled with cloves used to scent the house over the holidays. The vanilla adds a yummy factor, making it smell like a treat you enjoy in the festive holiday months.

Of course, this Christmas soap can be used year-round. Because it’s so lively and bright, it’s one of my favourite scents to give away. A very cheery soap, most people enjoy the smell of it. You’ll soon find them asking for more!

This post will include…

Why You’ll Love This Christmas Soap Recipe!

• Sweet orange, cinnamon, and vanilla make this soap smell just like Christmas. It’s a popular scent combination, which makes it great for gifting.
•  Cinnamon is a mood enhancer, and the antibacterial properties in the essential oil help it act as a natural preservative.
• This recipe is very moisturizing, which makes it great for winter weather. It contains olive oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, cocoa butter, and rice bran oil.
• The natural colouring and swirls make this orange and cinnamon soap look artisan-made, making it a great homemade gift option.

Orange Essential Oil Benefits

Orange essential oil is made from cold pressing the rind of sweet orange. Not only does it smell like a little slice of heaven, but it also has a host of benefits for the body.

Orange soap is especially good for reducing levels of stress and anxiety. Most citrus oils are known for being instant mood boosters, and studies have shown the smell has even been proven to help those with pain.

The essential oils also help to stop the growth of bacteria and fungi, making this an extra cleansing orange soap.

Some citrus oils are phototoxic, meaning they may cause skin irritation and reactions when exposed to the sun after applying to your skin. The good news is that orange essential oil has very low phototoxicity, but you should still be cautious. If you plan to apply it to your face, ensure you’re wearing sunscreen for safety.

The Benefits of Cinnamon Oil

We also have to give a shoutout to the other half of this duo, cinnamon oil! Without a doubt, this is the main component of the Christmas soap that gives it those festive and cozy vibes. Not a single bit shy, cinnamon is a strong scent that many find pleasing. To me, cinnamon smells of tasty baked goods I might consume in the days before Christmas.

Sweet and spicy, cinnamon also acts as a mood enhancer. The antibacterial properties in the essential oil are a safe and natural preservative. This makes it a great addition to natural cosmetics, like cinnamon soap.

As with any essential oil, you never want to rub it directly on the skin. This can cause a burning sensation or rashes. If applying it to the skin, be sure to keep the concentration low by diluting it with a carrier oil.

In this cinnamon soap recipe, I use coconut oil, sunflower oil, cocoa butter, and rice bran oil so you can get all the sweet Christmas spice with none of the worries.

Why This Christmas Soap is Ideal for Winter

Natural soaps are made of high-quality, natural oils. I designed this recipe to specifically be naturally moisturizing, so it’s ideal for winter skin that’s dry and flaky from the winter air.

As part of the soap making process, glycerin is a natural by-product. Derived from plant-based oils, it’s commonly used as a moisturizer because it attracts moisture to itself and the surrounding skin.

Most commercial soaps extract the glycerin from their soap to add to their other products. As a result, you need to use additional moisturizing products after you use the soap on your skin. They want you to buy more.

Rather than contribute to your dry and itchy skin, this Christmas soap will aid and soothe it. I notice a big difference in the way my skin feels when I use natural vs. commercial soaps, especially in the winter.

Make This Soap Ahead of Time

Natural soap needs curing time before it can be used. Curing allows the saponification process, the process of lye and oils turning into soap, to complete itself and the water to fully evaporate.

For my soaps, I always recommend six weeks for the soap to cure fully. If you’re gifting these Christmas soaps or want to enjoy them around the holidays, you need to have them done and curing by the beginning to mid-November.

So don’t be a last-minute soap maker, and start making this cinnamon and orange soap now!

Orange and Cinnamon Christmas Soap Recipe

You’ll notice a difference in your skin as soon as you lather up this Christmas soap. It’s gentle on the skin but will clean well, all while hydrating your skin.

Ingredients

For exact measurements, please view the recipe card down below.

Materials

Make It!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, I recommend you take a look at this guide first to get more detailed instructions before you get started. I won’t go into the nitty-gritty details about how to make lye water and combine your oils, but instead, get down to the technique of this particular soap!

Once you have reached a light trace, add in your sweet orange, cinnamon leaf, and vanilla absolute essential oils. Use your immersion blender to blend the oils into the soap.

Now it’s time for the swirls! The sweet orange oil itself gives this soap a nice light orange colour. But to add a little more pizazz, I add a teaspoon of turmeric. Add it to one side of the bowl and use a spatula to create tiny circles around the edge of the bowl. This ensures you don’t spread it through the whole soap mixture.

Once the turmeric makes a dark orange circle around the edge of the bowl, pull the colour through the soap once or twice through the mixture. Then, pour your mixture into the soap. This creates a delicate swirl of dark orange that resembles the cinnamon swirls you might see in a cinnamon bun. It’s simply gorgeous for Christmas gifting.

You’ll have to let your soap sit somewhere nice and warm for two days before cutting it. Once cut, it must cure for six weeks before it’s ready for use.

This is why I get all my Christmas soap-making done in November. This gives me plenty of time to wrap them up all pretty and even send some in the mail to friends and relatives out of town.

Gift This Christmas Soap

Part of the fun of making this soap is to give it away. I usually double or triple the batch below. While I do keep a few bars for myself, I give the majority away.

I particularly enjoy wrapping these bars into a bundle using eco-friendly materials such as twine. You could even add dried orange slices and a few cinnamon sticks to the top for added oomph.

Here are some of my other favourite ways to gift items using natural gift wrap. However you wrap it, this soap is a gift the recipient will love all season long.

Let me know if you end up gifting this orange and cinnamon soap!

More Christmas Goodness to Try Out

You don’t have to stick with traditional landscape edging anymore. Today’s contemporary homes deserve more than just the basics. It’s time to explore modern edging ideas that blend aesthetics with function. From geometric designs to innovative materials, we’ve got it all covered. We’ll even share some handy maintenance tips and inspiring case studies. So, let’s dive in and redefine the boundaries of your outdoor space with modern landscape edging.

Image source

Exploring the Basics of Modern Landscape Edging

Let’s delve into the basics of modern landscape edging and see how it can transform your yard into a contemporary oasis. Landscape edging is an often overlooked aspect of garden design that can serve both practical and aesthetic purposes. It involves defining and separating spaces in your outdoor area with different materials like stone, metal, or even plants. This technique gives your yard a clean and organized look. Contemporary landscape edging leans more towards minimalist design and often uses materials like steel, concrete, or glass. These materials create a sleek and modern look, which is characteristic of contemporary design. Incorporating modern landscape edging into your yard is a simple way to bring a sense of sophistication and order to your outdoor space.

Incorporating Geometric Designs in Landscape Edging

Incorporating geometric designs in your yard’s border can truly elevate its overall aesthetic. With their sharp lines and angles, these patterns can bring a sense of order and modernity to your outdoor space. They can be as simple or complex as you like, depending on your personal taste and the existing style of your home.

One popular option is to use rectangular or square pavers, arranged in a herringbone or chevron pattern. This can create a striking, graphic effect that is both contemporary and timeless. Alternatively, you might consider using circles or ovals for a softer, more organic feel. No matter what shape you choose, the key is to ensure that the pattern is consistent and repeated throughout the space. This will create a cohesive look that is visually pleasing and harmoniously fits with your home’s architecture.

Material Choices for Contemporary Landscape Edging

Choosing the right materials for your yard’s border is just as crucial as the design itself. For a contemporary home, sleek materials like steel, aluminum, or concrete make excellent choices. Steel provides a robust, minimalist appeal and is quite durable, but it may rust over time. Aluminum, on the other hand, is rust-resistant and lightweight, making it more convenient for DIY projects. Concrete presents a versatile option as it can be shaped and colored to match any aesthetic. All these materials can be used to create clean, geometric designs for a modern look. Ultimately, the choice depends on your personal preference, the existing landscape, and weather conditions. Remember, the edging should not only be functional but also enhance your home’s overall curb appeal.

Maintenance Tips for Modern Landscape Edging

You’ll find it’s essential to regularly maintain your yard’s border to keep it looking fresh and tidy. Modern landscape edging requires minimal yet consistent upkeep. Choose materials like metal and stone for durability and ease of maintenance. These materials resist weathering and can be easily cleaned with a simple spray of water. For a greener option, consider living edging with plants or grasses. This requires regular trimming to maintain the desired shape and to prevent overgrowth. Remember, mulch and loose stones need periodic replenishing to keep edgings looking new. Also, don’t forget to check for any signs of rust or damage in metal edgings and repair them promptly. With regular care, your modern landscape edging will continue to enhance your home’s aesthetic appeal.

Case Studies of Innovative Landscape Edging Ideas

Let’s delve into some case studies that showcase innovative yard border designs, shedding light on their unique features and practical benefits. In a Californian residence, the homeowners opted for a steel edging. This not only defined their garden areas but also created a modern, sleek look. The rusting effect over time added an aesthetic appeal, blending with the natural surroundings.

Another example is a Melbourne suburban house that used recycled bricks for its edging. This sustainable approach not only enhanced the garden’s look but also reduced waste. The unevenness and different shades of the bricks added a rustic charm.

Lastly, a Japanese-inspired garden in Seattle used natural rocks as edging. This design created a tranquil, organic ambiance, harmoniously merging with the Zen garden. These case studies demonstrate the endless possibilities for innovative landscape edging.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Much Does It Typically Cost to Install Modern Landscape Edging in a Standard-Sized Yard?

The cost of installing landscape edging varies significantly based on materials and labor. On average, homeowners might spend between $200 to $400 for a standard-sized yard. Premium materials can increase this cost substantially.

What Is the Average Lifespan of Contemporary Landscape Edging Materials?

The lifespan of contemporary landscape edging materials varies. Metal edging can last over 20 years, while plastic can last up to 10 years. Durable materials like concrete and stone might even last a lifetime.

What Are Some Common Challenges Homeowners Face When Installing Modern Landscape Edging?

When installing landscape edging, homeowners often face challenges such as selecting the right materials, managing the cost, handling difficult terrain, and maintaining the edging’s appearance and durability over time.

Which Modern Landscape Edging Designs Are Best Suited for Drought-Prone Regions?

For drought-prone regions, gravel or stone edging designs are ideal. They do not require water, are durable, and add a modern aesthetic. Also, using native, drought-tolerant plants can enhance the overall landscape design.

Can Modern Landscape Edging Increase the Value of My Property?

Yes, modern landscape edging can increase your property’s value. It enhances curb appeal, creates clear boundaries, and shows meticulous care for your outdoor space, which can attract potential buyers and raise your home’s market value.

Conclusion

In conclusion, modern landscape edging is more than just creating boundaries. It’s about enhancing your outdoor space with innovative designs and materials that suit your contemporary home. With proper maintenance, these edging ideas can make your garden truly stand out. So, why not give your home a modern twist with these landscape-edging ideas?

As soon as late summer edges toward fall in New York, I begin to lick my pawpaw-loving lips. As this native North American fruit gains mainstream recognition it has become easier to source both the fresh fruit as well as the pawpaw saplings. Despite the rising tide of awareness, many people are still unfamiliar with them and have yet to taste a fresh pawpaw. And if you have lusted after the perfumed fruit but have not met one,  there are few things you may not know.

Here are 15 of them.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

1. “Pawpaw” actually refers to two completely different and unrelated fruit.

The pawpaw under discussion is the native North American fruit belonging to the genus Asimina. The cold-hardy common pawpaw is A. triloba, but there are over a dozen other species, with regional distributions that cleave to the eastern and Mid-Western parts of the United States, from southern Canada down to Florida.

In regions and countries with Commonwealth and British colonial histories (think Australia, England, India, South Africa, the West Indies, and more) the common name “pawpaw” refers to what anyone from the Americas calls papaya. Soft-skinned and subtropical, small or football-sized, that pawpaw, Carica papaya, has yellow to deep rose flesh and is filled in the center with little black, peppery seeds. It is available in many grocery stores, year-round.

2. For the Shawnee, September is the month of the pawpaw moon, ha’siminikiisfwa.

The botanical genus name Asimina is derived from the Shawnee word for pawpaw: ha’simini. For the Shawnee, September is the month of the pawpaw moon, ha’siminikiisfwa, according to Joel Barnes, Archives Director for the Shawnee Tribe (via a West Virginia Public Radio interview in a 2020).

Until the 19th century, before they were forcibly removed by the US government, the Shawnee’s ancestral lands were in pawpaw-rich Appalachia, including current southeast Ohio.

3. The fruit has inspired an annual three-day festival.

The three-day Pawpaw Festival in southeast Ohio in September is a celebration of everything pawpaw. There are pawpaw tastings, and dozens of pawpaw dishes to choose from. Chris Chmiel is one of the founders of the festival and the co-owner (with Michelle Gorman, his wife) of Integration Acres, which has sold fresh pawpaws, frozen pawpaw purée, and other native wild things to the public since 1996. (The first pawpaws I tasted were shipped from Ohio’s woodland’s to my Brooklyn front door in 2016.)

4. The crew of the trans-continental Lewis and Clarke expedition were sustained by “poppaws.”

My name is Eric Peterson, and like most gardeners I have been into gardening since I was a child. I live on a 3,900-square-foot lot in Portland, Oregon (Zone 8b). I started my garden when I moved in about 12 years ago. Originally I was renting the house and started a container garden made mostly of plants that I would find on Craigslist for free. It made sense to have my plants in containers so I could take them with me if I moved. I continue to rescue unwanted plants when people are ready to give them a new home. We ended up buying the house in 2017 and still have a lot of container plants.

I like to collect a lot of antiques and display them in the garden wherever I can. In this photo I displayed a lot of my desert plants, including a golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii, Zones 9–11), Euphorbia lactea (Zones 10–11), Euphorbia ammak (Zones 10–11), Aloe ‘Hercules’ (Zones 10–11), and Aloe arborescens ‘Variegata’ (Zones 9–11).

The stained glass conservatory was made out of recycled bricks and old barn wood. I made most of the stained glass windows myself. I cut and folded the copper shingles with my family. I made them in the shape of dragon scales. When I designed it, I wanted the light to be filtered to keep it cooler in the summer so it would be more of a livable space instead of your average overheated greenhouse that is too warm to enjoy in the summer. It has taken about three years to complete this project.

I am always pushing the zone with tropical plants and vines like Passiflora ‘Scarlet Flame’ (Zones 9–11). The antique phone booth in the background was quite a challenge to move in. I had to rent a crane because it’s cast iron and weighs 1,700 pounds. We had to lift it over and under power lines to move it to the house.

The small garden is surrounded by big Yucca rostrata (Zones 7–11) that were rescued when their previous owner posted them for free on the Nextdoor app. I saved them from the chainsaw that the owner was going to take to them if no one wanted them. There are also Agave parryi (Zones 6–9) and large Agave ‘Blue Glow’ (Zones 8–11). Photo: Loree Bohl

Most of the Yucca rostrata stand over 10 feet tall in their pots.

Another Yucca rostrata sits next to a Nolina nelsonii (Zones 7–10) and an Agave americana (Zones 8–10) underneath an antique windmill.

On the right there is a very large, very heavy Agave gentryi (Zones 7–10), another rescued plant. It took a small team of volunteers to help rescue this agave, as it weighed about 500 pounds. In the back there is a fireplace made out of recycled bricks and stone that were found for free on Craigslist.

The rescued agave is about 6 feet wide and 4 feet tall. Behind it you can see a Trachycarpus fortunei ‘Wagnerianus’ (Zones 7–11). I’ve planted seven of them on my small lot. I’m hoping for a palm grove effect as they mature.

I added a lot of lighting in the greenhouse in hopes of catching NASA’s attention with a glowing stained glass greenhouse.

I’ve hung three large chandeliers and a couple of phonograph horns with oversized lightbulbs for a steampunk effect.

Chandeliers in the greenhouse

Thank you for letting me share my garden and greenhouse with everyone. Like any good gardener I’m not finished, and I’ll have more for you to see later.

If you want to see more from Eric, check out his Instagram: @ericpeterson89

 

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It can be very disappointing to find the striking colors of your carnivorous beauty fading to an inky black.

Can anything be done to save your plant or prevent it from happening again? That’s what we’ll cover in this guide. Here’s the lineup:

Sometimes, a Venus flytrap turning black just signals that it’s entering dormancy.

When the days grow colder and shorter, this triggers the plant to die back, conserving energy in the rhizome. The foliage will turn black before it eventually wilts.

This is completely normal and the colors will return when the long days and warmer temperatures return.

Venus flytraps require about ten weeks in dormancy to have strong growth next season.

If you have your plant inside, place it in an area with low light and cooler temperatures for three months.

If you do this, the lowest temperature your flytraps can be subjected to is 45℉. You can provide this by placing them on a porch or basement.

After three months, move your plants back into their warm, brightly lit area or back under the grow light and they will start sprouting again.

But why is this a common phenomenon when the temperatures are warm and the days are long?

Traps can turn black for a variety of reasons, including inadequate light or the wrong type of water. It could also be an issue with the potting media they are growing in or a response to damage from pests.

If it’s not the right time for the plant to be going dormant, then let’s take a look at the top five reasons why your Venus flytrap may turn black and what to do about them.

1. Not Enough Light

Since Venus flytraps are used to direct light exposure, they need at least six hours – preferably 12 hours – of sunlight per day.

Without it, they will start to turn black and potentially die through lack of photosynthesis. Thankfully, this is an easy problem to fix.

If you are lucky enough to have an area in your home that receives six hours or more of bright light, then you are golden. Simply move the plants into an area with more light and they should recover.

If your home is naturally quite dark, you may need to use a grow light to provide the sunlight your plants need.

2. Pest Infestation

When grown outdoors, Venus flytraps have natural enemies such as birds, raccoons, and squirrels, who will happily dig them up or cause damage.

However, inside your home, the biggest problems for these carnivorous plants are aphids and spider mites. In the case of a large infestation, black spots may appear on the leaves, especially on young, new growth.

Aphids can be green, brown, or yellow in color and feed on the leaves. To get rid of them, pick them off with tweezers or gently wash them away with a spray bottle.

Spider mites look like tiny dots scurrying across the foliage. To get rid of them, spray your plant with a miticide that will help kill the pests and help to prevent future infestations.

Once the pest problem has been addressed, your plant will recover and regrow new foliage.

If your Venus flytrap has been ravaged by aphids or spider mites to the point that it is black and decaying, you will have to dispose of the plant and start over. 

In the wild, Venus flytraps thrive in bogs which typically consist of spongy, partially decayed plant matter called peat, which is naturally acidic and deficient in nutrients.

To replicate these conditions you can use peat moss or coconut coir mixed with equal parts coarse sand.

4. Too Much or Too Little Food

In the wild, Venus flytraps catch their prey by capturing them in their traps before digesting them slowly. Hopefully, your plant doesn’t have a ton of live prey to catch while living in your home!

This means that you have to provide them with sustenance. However, feeding a Venus flytrap incorrectly can cause them to turn black and even die.

You’ll need to give them small, soft-bodied insects like crickets, flies, and mealworms. Bigger insects such as cockroaches or large spiders that don’t fit fully inside the trap aren’t able to be digested and will rot.

During the growing season, you should feed your plant one insect every four to six weeks. Only feed half of the traps at one time, or else you risk overfeeding which can kill the plant.

Never, ever feed your Venus flytrap raw meat! This can introduce disease-causing pathogens and waste your plant’s energy, which will ultimately cause it to turn black and die.

5. Water Issues

Venus flytraps are very sensitive to contaminants or nutrients in water. Their roots will burn if you use tap water or bottled water, which will result in the foliage turning black and dying.

When you water, be sure to use collected rainwater or distilled water. Tap water is treated and can contain high amounts of chlorine or fluoride, and bottled water generally contains minerals that your plant will not appreciate.

Overwatering or underwatering can also cause the foliage to blacken. The former can cause root rot, which will eventually kill the plant, and the latter will cause it to wilt and die.

You want to aim to provide consistent moisture without making the potting medium soggy or waterlogged. Bottom watering can help you get the balance just right.

But keeping a Hawaiian ti plant healthy and happy indoors requires that you cater to its physiological needs so that it feels like it’s in the tropics… and that can be tough if you don’t know how.

That’s why we’ve whipped up this guide: to give you that necessary know-how. After reading it, you’ll be able to keep your Hawaiian-themed hangouts looking quite on-brand.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

What Are Hawaiian Ti Plants?

Hawaiian ti plants – aka Cordyline fruticosa, or simply ti plants – are broadleaf evergreen perennials which hail from tropical regions of maritime Southeast Asia, north Australia, and west Oceania.

It’s hard to know exactly where they originated and where they were introduced early on, but they’re currently found in Central and South America, and most of Oceania.

Formerly classified as a member of the Dracaena genus, ti plants are hardy in USDA Zones 10 to 12.

Hawaiian ti reach heights of up to 10 feet and spread up to five feet when grown outdoors. But they’ll often top out at around half of that size when grown as houseplants.

C. fruticosa flaunts spiral arrangements of thin, lance-shaped leaves, each about one to two feet long, four inches wide, and set on a two- to six-inch petiole.

In the standard species, the color starts off purple to red and can later mature to a deep green.

As the plant ages, the lower leaves yellow and drop from the central stem, leaving rings of leaf scars that turn woody over time.

In spring to summer, Hawaiian ti plants send up panicles of small, star-shaped flowers in white, pale yellow, pink, or light purple colors. Indoor flowering is rare, and it typically won’t happen without ample sunlight and fertilization.

If the flowers are pollinated – again, not very likely when grown as houseplants – they’ll give way to small berries of a green, yellow, or red hue. Below the soil line grow thick, rhizomatous root systems.

The entire Hawaiian ti plant contains toxic saponins which can cause hypersalivation, bloody vomit and stools, depression, and anorexia if consumed by household pets such as cats and dogs.

If they consume large quantities, it should be treated as a life-threatening emergency that requires swift medical care and/or poison control.

If you’re human, then I wouldn’t go eating a raw C. fruticosa houseplant, either. Although historically, the roots have been steamed, fermented, or boiled to make them edible.

Speaking of history…

Cultivation and History

Despite how awesome it looks, the Hawaiian ti plant is more than just a pretty face. Maybe not the best idiom for discussing something that’s faceless, but you get my drift.

Nowhere is this more evident than in Polynesia. Early Polynesians believed that C. fruticosa had god-like powers.

Its leaves were worn around the neck, waist and ankles as well as hung around dwellings to ward off evil, living ti plants were cultivated for good luck – earning them the nickname “good luck plant” – and the form of C. fruticosa was imitated in feathered kähili standards, which were displays of royalty.

Ti plants became even more significant once they were introduced into Hawaii.

There, the plants became known as “Ki,” and they were revered as sacred flora of the deities Lono and Laka.

Along with the above beliefs and uses, the leaves were placed in waters to test for sharks or supernatural creatures: a floating leaf signaled safety, while one that sank was an omen of danger.

Hawaiians also use ti roots to make beer, brandy, and laxatives, and consume them straight-up as sweet treats after preparation.

A ton of old-school applications are still in use in Hawaii today. The leaves are used in constructing rain gear, sandals, fishnets, sleds, hula dance outfits, luau decorations, and roofs.

They can also be used as feed for cattle and horses, be wrapped around foods prior to steaming, and even compliment entrees as an inedible garnish.

Many Hawaiian ti varieties are cultivated specifically for their cut foliage, which is used by florists in beautiful arrangements. Plus, the living specimens make wonderful plantings for indoor decor or outdoor landscapes.

Hawaiian Ti Plant Propagation

There are many different ways to propagate a Hawaiian ti plant. For indoor growers, you can take cane cuttings, use air layering, or transplant a purchased container plant.

Division and sowing from seed are other effective means of propagation, but those are best left for gardeners who grow their C. fruticosa specimens outside, since indoor plants stay more compact and don’t flower as easily, much less set fruit.

For a more in-depth breakdown on how to sow seeds or divide, check out our guide to growing ti plants outdoors. (coming soon!).

From Cane Cuttings

To take cane cuttings, you’ll need to find a mature ti plant, whether it’s your own or a friend’s. If it’s the latter, make sure to ask for their permission first. If someone hacked up my ti plant without asking, then they’d have made an enemy for life!

If you observe the ti plant’s structure above the soil line, you’ll notice that the top portion will have the leaves, petioles, and soft central stem, while the portion below that will be a mature, woody stem.

Using a sharp and sterile pair of hand pruners, make your first cut at least three inches below the point where the tender growth becomes mature wood. Remove the lowermost quarter of basal leaves to compensate for the lack of stem tissue, and you’ve got your first cutting.

If you return your attention to the original ti plant, now you should have a thin, woody stem sticking up from the soil line. To take more cuttings, you can remove three-inch stem cuttings until the original stem is three inches tall.

So now, you should have at least one cutting with the leaves still attached, and perhaps a number of three-inch stem sections. I know that taking cuttings from a C. fruticosa may seem a bit more drastic than what you’d do for other plants, but trust me – it’ll bounce back!

Stick the leafy cutting in a four- to six-inch container filled with a 50:50 mix of sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite, making sure to submerge the lower three quarters of the stripped stem, and moisten the media.

Scraping your pruner blades along the stem beforehand to lightly damage it can help speed up rooting, although it’s not necessary.

Your stem-only cuttings should go in four- to six-inch containers filled with a similar media.

Submerge three quarters of the stem section underneath the soil line, making sure it is the right way up, and moisten the media. Just like before, feel free to lightly damage the outer surface of the stem to promote faster rooting.

Now that you have all your cuttings potted up and watered in, set them somewhere indoors where they will receive bright, indirect light with temperatures of 65 to 95°F.

Make sure to keep the soil moist, but not wet, and mist the air around the cuttings with a water-filled spray bottle two to three times a day until rooting occurs, which should take two to four weeks.

At this point, supplementary water vapor is only necessary if the ambient humidity is less than 40 percent.

Repot as needed to provide the roots with an inch or two of elbow room, and you’ll have yourself an established houseplant after a month or two!

Air Layering

Normal layering won’t work for a ti plant as its stem is stiff and unbendable, but air layering is the perfect technique to try.

Take a healthy and mature indoor Hawaiian ti plant, and observe the top three inches of the woody tissue. Take the bottom two inches of that section, and remove the outermost tissue from all around the stem with a sharp, sterile blade.

You should now be left with a two-inch-long ring of stripped stem underneath a single inch of undisturbed woody tissue.

Take some moist sphagnum peat moss, clump it around the exposed stem, then wrap it up with some clear plastic wrap. Tie the ends so it all stays tight, and thus begins the waiting game.

Keep the peat moist with a skinny watering can nozzle or syringe, and roots should form in two months or so.

You can check for root growth by moving the peat moss aside as necessary.

Gently unwrap the roots and snip your air layer away from the stem tissue below. Now you’re ready to transplant!

Transplanting

Whether you have a cutting that needs repotting, an air-layered propagule that needs a permanent home, a potted Hawaiian ti plant that you’ve purchased, or you simply want a snazzy container upgrade, transplanting is the move.

Fill a container an inch shy of the lip with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and vermiculite. If you’d prefer it, coconut coir is a suitable alternative to peat.

Make sure that the bottom of the container has drainage holes and that its diameter is a couple of inches wider than the transplant’s root system.

Prepare a hole that’s large enough for the transplant’s root system, lower the ti plant in so that its crown is level with the soil line, backfill the hole with soil, and water it all in so that the media is nice and moist. Presto, ya done transplanted!

For extra credit, place a saucer underneath the plant so that any water seepage doesn’t damage your flooring.

How to Grow Hawaiian Ti Plants

For a tropical specimen like C. fruticosa, it’s extremely important to provide suitable conditions to keep it happy and healthy. Let’s discuss how!

Climate and Exposure Needs

As tropical flora suitable for USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 12, Hawaiian ti plants thrive in hot, humid conditions.

Indoor growers should provide a temperature somewhere between 65 and 95°F, and a humidity of 40 to 60 percent. Thermostats, space heaters, grouping plants, humidifiers, and misting are all effective means of modifying temperature and humidity.

Cold and drafty areas will make the above much harder, so be sure to only “keep it breezy” in the metaphorical sense.

Bright, indirect light will help your ti plants to flaunt those oh-so-vibrant colors. They can definitely manage with a little less light, but it’s not optimal.

Ti plants are especially sensitive to fluoride, so distilled or deionized water sources would be ideal.

Pruning and Maintenance

As a Hawaiian ti plant grows and matures, its lower leaves may turn yellow or brown. Prune these off where they meet the stem as you see them, along with any other dead, diseased, or damaged leaves.

Pruning can also be used to control a specimen’s size. Cut it down to a height of six inches and you’ll rejuvenate it, as well as cause it to grow leaves lower down on the stem.

Be sure to empty any drainage-collecting saucers if they take on water faster than it evaporates. And don’t forget to repot as necessary! A cramped root system is very much no bueno.

Insects

Since insects can occasionally vector disease-causing pathogens, it’s doubly important to look out for them. Here are some to keep your eyes peeled for:

Aphids

A common pest both indoors and out, aphids are rounded, soft-bodied, and pear-shaped insects that congregate in clusters on leaves and stems.

Nearly impossible to see with the naked eye, spider mites are tiny, bristly arachnids that extract plant fluids, like aphids and scale, which causes wilting, chlorosis, and stunted growth.

Clumps of webbing will reveal their presence from afar, while a hand lens will highlight the individual pests.

Insecticidal soap and neem oil are both effective forms of control, along with strong sprays of water to physically blast the pests off of plant surfaces. For the latter, be sure to take the specimen outside first!

We’ve got more information about spider mites here.

Disease

Sterilizing your cutting implements, avoiding splashing the foliage, and promptly removing unhealthy leaves are all solid techniques for preventing possible infections.

But for more specific disease prevention tips, read on.

A quick note before you do, though: the following fungal diseases may be prevented by the use of fungicide sprays.

If you opt to use them, be sure to take your specimens outside prior to application. If you’d rather not use them, no worries – cultural prevention can be just as effective.

Fusarium Root and Stem Rot

Caused by species of Fusarium fungi, Fusarium stem and root rot is promoted by overly wet and humid conditions.

In conditions of high moisture, the fungus can attack the plant which causes dieback, loosening bark, and basal lesions. Internally, the woody tissue can become desiccated while the roots turn mushy and brown.

Prevention is best achieved by ensuring adequate drainage and not overwatering. If a plant is found to be infected, go ahead and pitch it – it’s worth it in the long run.

Phyllosticta Leaf Spot

Thanks to a “spot” of Phyllosticta dracaenae fungi, the older leaves of specimens afflicted with Phyllosticta leaf spot will manifest small spots of a roundish, irregular shape, bordered with purple and surrounded by yellow halos.

The spots hinder a plant’s ability to conduct photosynthesis, and are ugly to boot. Infected leaves should be pruned immediately. Excess water is a causal factor of this condition, so don’t forget to provide ample drainage and keep the soil from becoming soggy!

Phytophthora Leaf Spot

Caused by the fungus-like oomycete Phytophthora nicotianae, Phytophthora leaf spot causes the lower foliage to take on a water-soaked appearance and become riddled with patches of brown necrotic tissue.

As this pathogen likes to hang out in the soil, you should dispose of the infected specimen, sanitize its container, and replace it with fresh growing media.

As with the other diseases mentioned, reining in excess moisture makes a world of preventative difference.

Best Uses for Hawaiian Ti Plants

A ti plant can be used in all sorts of ways throughout the home. You can place it alone as a focal point, set it near another plant as an accent, or even group multiple specimens together in a beautiful colony!

And healthy leaves can make for a delightful addition to floral arrangements, if that sort of thing tickles your fancy.

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