Category: Home & Garden

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When the summer draws to a close and your homegrown produce is ripe for picking, the real challenge is knowing how to deal with this glut.

Luckily there are lots of ways to store and manage each year’s harvest effectively. Here are some tips to help you make the most of harvest season and minimise waste.

Canning & jarring

Transforming your harvest into shelf-stable creations is a rewarding process. Canning not only extends the life of your produce, but it also allows you to enjoy homegrown goods year-round.

From fruits and vegetables to soups and sauces, nearly every item from your harvest can be safely preserved with this method. If you don’t want to go all-out and acquire canning equipment, using well-sterilised jars will serve just as well.

Once done, you can bask in the knowledge that with each pop of a jar lid, fresh, homemade food awaits you no matter what season.

Freezing produce fresh

Freezing is an excellent strategy for keeping both fruits and veggies tasting garden-fresh long after harvest season has passed.

By blanching vegetables before freezing, you can retain their colour, texture and taste without losing any nutritional value.

With fresh fruit, a simple rinse, pat dry and tray freeze process will do wonders in preserving their quality. So when winter rolls around, your freezer can be your best friend.

Fermentation & pickling

These are age-old processes which not only amplify your food’s taste profile, but fill it with beneficial gut-friendly bacteria too.

Here’s a brief rundown on fermenting and pickling at home:

• Start small: begin by pickling simple veggies such as cucumbers or cabbage before trying other ingredients.
• Sterilise everything: be sure all jars, lids, and tools are squeaky clean for this bacterial reaction.
• Choose your brine: most traditional ferments use saltwater brine, while others may call for dairy or vinegar bases.
• Wait it out: patiently wait until you’ve achieved the desired tanginess, which is typically one to three weeks.

Fermenting also keeps the concept of waste foreign in your household. Left-overs can easily become kimchi, sauerkraut or pickle, making them last longer and be more digestible too!

Kitchen appliances

Don’t overlook your everyday kitchen appliances in the fight against food waste. Your refrigerator, oven, and even dehydrator are powerful tools that can aid in preserving the quality of your harvest bounty.

For instance, you can dehydrate fruits for easy snacking, or use low-heat settings on your oven to dry out herbs and veggies.

Remember also that a well-stocked fridge is key to keeping produce fresh for as long as possible. Just make sure all tools are running smoothly to win at winter storage. If you need any components to fix up misbehaving appliances, you can always order them from PartsCentre.

Give it away

When counters and pantries are overflowing, it might be best to share your bountiful harvest with others. Donating surplus produce to local food banks or community kitchens is a helpful option that reduces waste while helping those in need.

Organising a neighbourhood produce exchange event can also enhance ties within your community, while fostering an appreciation for homegrown foods. Sometimes the most satisfying way of managing abundance is by spreading joy to other tables.

The bottom line

Managing an abundance of food is all about preservation techniques and community sharing. Whether it’s canning creatively, using kitchen appliances effectively, freezing fresh produce, or fermenting for added flavour, each method ensures you enjoy your harvest bounty well into winter. And what can’t be stored should be shared with others, creating a chain of wholesome happiness.

Today we’re off to Canada to visit with Bas Suharto.

I built this garden for Ms. Jeanette in Orleans, Ontario. It started July 5, 2023, from a simple sketch. I discussed with her and proposed the layout on the sketch. The garden is part of the back terrace and is 45 feet by 8 feet. At the very back of the property there is a 45-foot-long cedar hedge. The existing ground is clay soil.

In searching for the plants at various places, sometimes I found more interesting ones to replace what I had proposed on the sketch, or some plants were not available at the local garden centers or nurseries, so I made some changes at the garden.

This is the beginning of the work, day 1. I added garden soil and mushroom compost over the existing weedy clay. I avoid using harmful products to kill the weeds. One of Jeanette’s family members helped me deliver the soil and river stones to the front house.

This is the first day of planting, when I put in boxwoods (Buxus sp., Zones 5–9), bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla, Zones 5–9), ‘Sum and Substance’ hostas (Hosta ‘Sum and Substance’, Zones 3–8), and some annual geraniums (Pelargonium hybrids, Zones 9–11 or as annuals).

Jeanette likes the white flowers of daisies (Leucanthemum × superbum, Zones 5–9), so I planted a row of them along with two Snow Fountains weeping cherries (Prunus ‘Snofozam’, Zones 4–8) on the left side and two dwarf Korean lilac standards (Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’, Zones 3–8).

Along the border of the terrace, I planted hybrid roses ‘Grande Amore’ and ‘Peggy Rockeffeler’. They can grow in Zone 5a of Orleans, Ontario.

I made a “river” of stones to bring rainwater from the roof to the fences and on to the municipal rain drainage. I then planted a row of Hakone grasses (Hakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’, Zones 5–9) to grow over and hide the plastic edging along the side of the gravel.

Next, I installed concrete stepping stones, and along the right border I planted the ornamental grass Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’ (Zones 3–9).

It took me 11 days to finish the garden. Here is a view of it from the balcony of the house.

Pink anemone (Anemone hupehensis, Zones 4–8) and annual geraniums

A look at the finished product

And looking down the length of the garden

Have a garden you’d like to share?

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Fall is upon us and, naturally, thoughts turn to shutting down the garden for winter and planning next year’s plantings. Thing is, as savvy gardeners know, autumn can be a wonderful time to plant perennials, shrubs, and trees. Why?

1. Cooler temps = reduced water needs.

Cooler temps this season reduce the stress on plants (and the humans digging the holes!).  In the spring and summer, the plant is actively growing and its water demand is high. However, in the fall, the plant is getting ready for dormancy, so its need for water is a fraction of that in the summer.

2. The new plant can focus solely on root growth.

When you plant in the spring, the plant’s energy is divided between supporting top growth and repairing and growing new roots. When you plant in the fall, all the plant’s energy is sent to the roots, and you may end up with a healthier and more robust plant that blooms fuller and earlier than its spring planted counterpart. (Plants will continue to grow roots up until the ground freezes.) You’re essentially giving the new plant a head start for next year.

3. Fall means fewer pests munching on plants.

As the weather gets colder, insects turn their focus from feeding on plants to looking for a place to overwinter and to diapause. Diapause is complete physiological dormancy, where the insect “pauses” its metabolism for the winter, as opposed to hibernation, when metabolism merely slows down.

4. And fewer diseases, too.

Most fungi and bacteria require a more moderate temperature range to be active. With temperatures trending lower and fewer available leaves to infect, there’s less chance of new plants getting infected.

Tips for Planting in the Fall

Acer palmatum var. dissectum ‘Crimson Queen’

‘Crimson Queen’ ticks all the boxes on the list of what people love about Japanese Maples.

It’s a dwarf tree, features shockingly bright red fall foliage, has lace-like serrated leaves, and grows in a cascading habit that creates a unique focal point in the garden.

It’s essentially that quintessential cascading red Japanese maple with lacy leaves.

If that’s just what your landscape needs, ‘Crimson Queen’ has to be near the top of your list of Japanese maple cultivars.

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It’s not a perfect tree, though. It does have a few special requirements if you want it to look its best. Don’t worry, we’ll go over all of the pros and cons of this garden favorite.

Part of what I love about ‘Crimson Queen’ is that after the beautiful foliage is done for the year, the twisting branches add visual interest to the winter landscape, and the shape becomes more impressive as the trees age.

If you’re in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8, you’re in luck. ‘Crimson Queen’ can be yours. Coming up, here’s what we will chat about to help you get to know Her Royal Highness:

Can’t wait one minute more? Then let’s jump right in.

Cultivation and History

‘Crimson Queen’ is a weeping Japanese maple cultivar. It’s a standout in the dissectum category, as discussed in our guide to Japanese maple types.

Trees in this group tend to be much smaller than the species and have a more shrubby shape, often with a cascading habit.

‘Crimson Queen’ was bred in the United States in 1965, and rapidly became a commercial success. It won the RHS Award of Garden Merit in 1993.

This dwarf cultivar takes about 15 years to grow to its mature size of about five feet tall and seven feet wide, which may seem slow, but that’s about the average growth speed for any Japanese maple.

It can get a bit taller with ideal sun exposure and moisture, but usually, it doesn’t grow much taller than that. It’s common for the tree to stay much smaller if it’s planted in a shady spot.

If you aren’t afraid of a little pruning, you can train it to be shorter or taller than it would be naturally, and you can encourage a bushier shape or a more upright one.

Looking for a good container option? You found it. The small size and cascading shape of ‘Crimson Queen’ makes it ideal for life in a pot.

When the leaves first emerge in the spring, they unfold into a deep purple-red and shift to bright red over the span of a few weeks. It’s almost like fall in the springtime, and the foliage makes a beautiful contrast to all the bright spring colors.

It lightens just slightly during the summer before putting on a fall show with a bright, fire-engine-red hue.

‘Crimson Queen’ is beloved for its ability to retain its color all summer long, with the exception of occasional leaf scorch or loss of color in hot, sunny areas.

In hot regions, it might take on more of a bronze-green hue in the summer, especially if it’s growing in direct sun.

The leaves are palmate, deeply lobed, finely dissected, with seven to nine lobes, and grow up to four inches tall and wide.

The insignificant flowers appear in the spring and give way to samaras with two wings.

Crimson Queen Propagation

‘Crimson Queen,’ as with many cultivated varieties, won’t grow true from seed.

They are usually grafted rather than grown from seed. Feel free to give it a try if that’s something that interests you – with the understanding that you never know what you might get.

Our guide will walk you through the entire process.

Otherwise, stick to planting purchased plants or taking cuttings. Cuttings don’t always take, so plan on starting multiples just in case a few don’t turn out.

Our guide to growing weeping Japanese maples will walk you through both planting a purchased plant and propagation via cuttings.

The best time of year to do either is the spring or fall. With a newly planted tree, be sure to keep the soil moist but not wet for the first year. The soil should have the same texture as a kitchen sponge that you’ve wrung out really well.

Space trees four feet away on all sides from buildings, other plants, or fences.

How to Grow Crimson Queen Japanese Maple

As with most Japanese maples, this one grows best in loamy, rich, moist soil. It will also tolerate sandy loam. The soil should be slightly acidic, with a pH between 5.5 to 6.5.

After the first year, when the soil should be kept consistently moist, you can allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between watering.

An inch or two of organic mulch, like well-rotted compost or shredded bark, can help the soil retain moisture and it also helps to suppress weeds.

Don’t build up a layer of mulch against the trunk, though. Keep it a few inches away from the trunk itself.

Remember how we talked about the downside of ‘Crimson Queen?’ We’ve come to that part. She’s prone to scorching. If her soil gets too dry or she is planted in a location with too much sun, the leaves will shrivel, turn yellow or brown, and look shabby on the “fingers.”

You can avoid scorching in some trees by keeping them moist and providing afternoon shade. But even if you do that, the tree might still experience leaf scorch if it gets too hot.

This tree really does best in a location with temperate summers, but if you give it afternoon protection from the sun, it should do fine even in warmer regions. If the leaves do suffer from scorch, they will eventually drop, and new foliage will replace them.

That’s all to say that you should plant in partial sun with shade in the afternoon, or in full sun if it doesn’t get too sweltering in the summer in your neck of the woods.

Those in regions with cooler summers like the Pacific Northwest or the northern Atlantic coast can grow these in full sun. If you’re in the West or Midwest, best to provide afternoon shade.

Water is an important part of keeping a ‘Crimson Queen’ happy during the heat, so stay on top of your irrigation routine during warm weather.

I know I said that this tree is suitable for Zones 5 to 8, but you can grow it in Zone 4 if you choose your planting site carefully.

Place it close to a south-facing wall that is protected from strong winds with a cement or brick foundation which will help to keep the roots warm. Add a thick layer of organic mulch in the fall to help protect the roots.

‘Crimson Queen’ maintains a compact size naturally, so it lends itself to container growing. Avoid using light pots made out of plastic or thin metal.

Speaking of irrigation, whether in the ground or a container, avoid splashing water on the leaves. Water should be applied at the ground level to decrease the chances of fungal diseases.

You likely won’t ever need to fertilize your Japanese maple, but if you notice your tree seems to be extremely slow-growing or stunted, do a soil test to check if your soil is seriously deficient in certain nutrients. If it is, amend your soil with the missing nutrients.

If you know your soil is lacking in nutrients, feel free to feed your plant following our guide.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun in cooler climates or afternoon shade in warm climates.
• Water when the top two or three inches of soil dry out.
• Keep plants well-watered during high heat.

Pruning and Maintenance

All Japanese maples need regular pruning to maintain their beautiful appearance, but weeping types need extra attention.

You can encourage the striking shape by pruning out the center of the tree so that there are just three to five main branches.

A crowded crown won’t be as dramatic as one that is carefully curated to include the most beautiful branches that contribute to the shape you want to see.

Some of the most interesting and beautiful Japanese maple specimens out there didn’t happen by chance. They were carefully pruned, especially when they were young, to create a pleasing shape.

If you were to crawl under your tree when it is in full leaf and look up, you should be able to see some sky through the leaves and branches. If you can’t, then your tree is in need of a good pruning.

You can learn all about the process by visiting our comprehensive guide to pruning Japanese maples.

Diseased, dead, dying, deformed, or damaged leaves can be pruned out anytime of year, while shaping should be done during the winter on a day when the temperature is above freezing.

Where to Buy

You can find ‘Crimson Queen’ all over the place. It’s an extremely popular option and is commonly carried by garden centers and plant nurseries.

‘Crimson Queen’

For instance, Nature Hills Nursery has live plants in sprinter pots.

If you aren’t familiar with the term sprinter pot, it’s a pot just under a quart in size containing a tree under two years old.

Or you can grab a one to two-foot or two to three-foot tree from Fast Growing Trees.

Managing Pests and Disease

‘Crimson Queen’ is susceptible to all the usual common diseases and pests that attack Japanese maples.

These trees are subject to attacks from aphids, borers, and scale. Infestations can range from minor to deadly serious.

When it comes to disease, watch for anthracnose, powdery mildew, Pseudomonas, root rot, and verticillium wilt.

We cover all of these in our guide to growing Japanese maples.

General signs of a problem are yellowing or brown leaves, wilting, stunted growth, and dropping leaves.

Best Uses for Crimson Queen

‘Crimson Queen’ is the ruler of specimen planting. Just try to look at anything else when she’s draped in her red robe in the summer.

She also makes an excellent container option, whether that’s in a large planter or a tiny little bonsai pot.

This little tree adds shape to the winter landscape and color during spring, summer, and fall.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Deciduous tree	Foliage Color:	Red, bronze, green
Native to:	China, Japan, Korea	Tolerance:	Some shade
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	4b-9b	Soil Type:	Sandy, loamy, silty, loamy clay
Season:	Spring	Soil pH:	5.5-6.5
Exposure:	Full sun to partial shade	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Time to Maturity:	15 years	Attracts:	Birds
Planting Depth:	Same depth as container (graft exposed)	Companion Planting:	Black walnut, camellia, crocus, dwarf conifer, ginkgo, iris, hellebores, hosta, rhododendron
Spacing	4 feet	Avoid Planting With:	Barberry, cacti, crocus, forsythia
Height:	Up to 8 feet	Uses:	Bonsai, container planting, specimen
Spread:	Up to 10 feet	Family:	Sapindaceae
Growth Rate:	Slow	Genus:	Acer
Water Needs:	Moderate-high	Species:	Palmatum
Maintenance:	Moderate	Variety:	Dissectum
Common Pests and Disease:	Aphids, borers, maple scale; Anthracnose, powdery mildew, pseudomonas, root rot, verticillium wilt	Cultivar:	Crimson Queen

All Hail the Queen

She’s an undeniable beauty. It’s perfectly clear why she is considered one of the best options if you want a lacy, weeping, red Japanese maple.

She’s sure to draw all the attention when she’s sitting on her throne in your garden.

How will you highlight Her Royal Highness? Are you putting her in a container? Using her as an accent for a Japanese garden? Share your plans in the comments section below.

Don’t end your Japanese maple journey here. These plants are fascinating. Here are some guides to expand your knowledge even further:

This orange and cinnamon soap is one of my favourite holiday treats to give away. When you combine uplifting orange with sweet and spicy cinnamon, you get a scent that comes straight from a Hallmark Christmas movie. If you’re feeling festive this year, learn how to make your very own Christmas soap to give away this season.

While this Christmas soap reminds me of the holidays, the orange does bring a sense of freshness and renewal. Sweet orange essential oil reminds me of a hot summer day, which can be a friendly reminder when we’re actually closer to the winter solstice!

Sweet orange is considered a top note in the realm of fragrances, which means it pairs well with warm scents. And cinnamon, as you probably guessed, is a warm note!

Sweet orange brings the season’s joy, while cinnamon brings you the cozy vibes. The blend of cinnamon and orange reminds me of old-fashioned oranges filled with cloves used to scent the house over the holidays. The vanilla adds a yummy factor, making it smell like a treat you enjoy in the festive holiday months.

Of course, this Christmas soap can be used year-round. Because it’s so lively and bright, it’s one of my favourite scents to give away. A very cheery soap, most people enjoy the smell of it. You’ll soon find them asking for more!

This post will include…

Why You’ll Love This Christmas Soap Recipe!

• Sweet orange, cinnamon, and vanilla make this soap smell just like Christmas. It’s a popular scent combination, which makes it great for gifting.
•  Cinnamon is a mood enhancer, and the antibacterial properties in the essential oil help it act as a natural preservative.
• This recipe is very moisturizing, which makes it great for winter weather. It contains olive oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, cocoa butter, and rice bran oil.
• The natural colouring and swirls make this orange and cinnamon soap look artisan-made, making it a great homemade gift option.

Orange Essential Oil Benefits

Orange essential oil is made from cold pressing the rind of sweet orange. Not only does it smell like a little slice of heaven, but it also has a host of benefits for the body.

Orange soap is especially good for reducing levels of stress and anxiety. Most citrus oils are known for being instant mood boosters, and studies have shown the smell has even been proven to help those with pain.

The essential oils also help to stop the growth of bacteria and fungi, making this an extra cleansing orange soap.

Some citrus oils are phototoxic, meaning they may cause skin irritation and reactions when exposed to the sun after applying to your skin. The good news is that orange essential oil has very low phototoxicity, but you should still be cautious. If you plan to apply it to your face, ensure you’re wearing sunscreen for safety.

The Benefits of Cinnamon Oil

We also have to give a shoutout to the other half of this duo, cinnamon oil! Without a doubt, this is the main component of the Christmas soap that gives it those festive and cozy vibes. Not a single bit shy, cinnamon is a strong scent that many find pleasing. To me, cinnamon smells of tasty baked goods I might consume in the days before Christmas.

Sweet and spicy, cinnamon also acts as a mood enhancer. The antibacterial properties in the essential oil are a safe and natural preservative. This makes it a great addition to natural cosmetics, like cinnamon soap.

As with any essential oil, you never want to rub it directly on the skin. This can cause a burning sensation or rashes. If applying it to the skin, be sure to keep the concentration low by diluting it with a carrier oil.

In this cinnamon soap recipe, I use coconut oil, sunflower oil, cocoa butter, and rice bran oil so you can get all the sweet Christmas spice with none of the worries.

Why This Christmas Soap is Ideal for Winter

Natural soaps are made of high-quality, natural oils. I designed this recipe to specifically be naturally moisturizing, so it’s ideal for winter skin that’s dry and flaky from the winter air.

As part of the soap making process, glycerin is a natural by-product. Derived from plant-based oils, it’s commonly used as a moisturizer because it attracts moisture to itself and the surrounding skin.

Most commercial soaps extract the glycerin from their soap to add to their other products. As a result, you need to use additional moisturizing products after you use the soap on your skin. They want you to buy more.

Rather than contribute to your dry and itchy skin, this Christmas soap will aid and soothe it. I notice a big difference in the way my skin feels when I use natural vs. commercial soaps, especially in the winter.

Make This Soap Ahead of Time

Natural soap needs curing time before it can be used. Curing allows the saponification process, the process of lye and oils turning into soap, to complete itself and the water to fully evaporate.

For my soaps, I always recommend six weeks for the soap to cure fully. If you’re gifting these Christmas soaps or want to enjoy them around the holidays, you need to have them done and curing by the beginning to mid-November.

So don’t be a last-minute soap maker, and start making this cinnamon and orange soap now!

Orange and Cinnamon Christmas Soap Recipe

You’ll notice a difference in your skin as soon as you lather up this Christmas soap. It’s gentle on the skin but will clean well, all while hydrating your skin.

Ingredients

For exact measurements, please view the recipe card down below.

Materials

Make It!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, I recommend you take a look at this guide first to get more detailed instructions before you get started. I won’t go into the nitty-gritty details about how to make lye water and combine your oils, but instead, get down to the technique of this particular soap!

Once you have reached a light trace, add in your sweet orange, cinnamon leaf, and vanilla absolute essential oils. Use your immersion blender to blend the oils into the soap.

Now it’s time for the swirls! The sweet orange oil itself gives this soap a nice light orange colour. But to add a little more pizazz, I add a teaspoon of turmeric. Add it to one side of the bowl and use a spatula to create tiny circles around the edge of the bowl. This ensures you don’t spread it through the whole soap mixture.

Once the turmeric makes a dark orange circle around the edge of the bowl, pull the colour through the soap once or twice through the mixture. Then, pour your mixture into the soap. This creates a delicate swirl of dark orange that resembles the cinnamon swirls you might see in a cinnamon bun. It’s simply gorgeous for Christmas gifting.

You’ll have to let your soap sit somewhere nice and warm for two days before cutting it. Once cut, it must cure for six weeks before it’s ready for use.

This is why I get all my Christmas soap-making done in November. This gives me plenty of time to wrap them up all pretty and even send some in the mail to friends and relatives out of town.

Gift This Christmas Soap

Part of the fun of making this soap is to give it away. I usually double or triple the batch below. While I do keep a few bars for myself, I give the majority away.

I particularly enjoy wrapping these bars into a bundle using eco-friendly materials such as twine. You could even add dried orange slices and a few cinnamon sticks to the top for added oomph.

Here are some of my other favourite ways to gift items using natural gift wrap. However you wrap it, this soap is a gift the recipient will love all season long.

Let me know if you end up gifting this orange and cinnamon soap!

More Christmas Goodness to Try Out

You don’t have to stick with traditional landscape edging anymore. Today’s contemporary homes deserve more than just the basics. It’s time to explore modern edging ideas that blend aesthetics with function. From geometric designs to innovative materials, we’ve got it all covered. We’ll even share some handy maintenance tips and inspiring case studies. So, let’s dive in and redefine the boundaries of your outdoor space with modern landscape edging.

Image source

Exploring the Basics of Modern Landscape Edging

Let’s delve into the basics of modern landscape edging and see how it can transform your yard into a contemporary oasis. Landscape edging is an often overlooked aspect of garden design that can serve both practical and aesthetic purposes. It involves defining and separating spaces in your outdoor area with different materials like stone, metal, or even plants. This technique gives your yard a clean and organized look. Contemporary landscape edging leans more towards minimalist design and often uses materials like steel, concrete, or glass. These materials create a sleek and modern look, which is characteristic of contemporary design. Incorporating modern landscape edging into your yard is a simple way to bring a sense of sophistication and order to your outdoor space.

Incorporating Geometric Designs in Landscape Edging

Incorporating geometric designs in your yard’s border can truly elevate its overall aesthetic. With their sharp lines and angles, these patterns can bring a sense of order and modernity to your outdoor space. They can be as simple or complex as you like, depending on your personal taste and the existing style of your home.

One popular option is to use rectangular or square pavers, arranged in a herringbone or chevron pattern. This can create a striking, graphic effect that is both contemporary and timeless. Alternatively, you might consider using circles or ovals for a softer, more organic feel. No matter what shape you choose, the key is to ensure that the pattern is consistent and repeated throughout the space. This will create a cohesive look that is visually pleasing and harmoniously fits with your home’s architecture.

Material Choices for Contemporary Landscape Edging

Choosing the right materials for your yard’s border is just as crucial as the design itself. For a contemporary home, sleek materials like steel, aluminum, or concrete make excellent choices. Steel provides a robust, minimalist appeal and is quite durable, but it may rust over time. Aluminum, on the other hand, is rust-resistant and lightweight, making it more convenient for DIY projects. Concrete presents a versatile option as it can be shaped and colored to match any aesthetic. All these materials can be used to create clean, geometric designs for a modern look. Ultimately, the choice depends on your personal preference, the existing landscape, and weather conditions. Remember, the edging should not only be functional but also enhance your home’s overall curb appeal.

Maintenance Tips for Modern Landscape Edging

You’ll find it’s essential to regularly maintain your yard’s border to keep it looking fresh and tidy. Modern landscape edging requires minimal yet consistent upkeep. Choose materials like metal and stone for durability and ease of maintenance. These materials resist weathering and can be easily cleaned with a simple spray of water. For a greener option, consider living edging with plants or grasses. This requires regular trimming to maintain the desired shape and to prevent overgrowth. Remember, mulch and loose stones need periodic replenishing to keep edgings looking new. Also, don’t forget to check for any signs of rust or damage in metal edgings and repair them promptly. With regular care, your modern landscape edging will continue to enhance your home’s aesthetic appeal.

Case Studies of Innovative Landscape Edging Ideas

Let’s delve into some case studies that showcase innovative yard border designs, shedding light on their unique features and practical benefits. In a Californian residence, the homeowners opted for a steel edging. This not only defined their garden areas but also created a modern, sleek look. The rusting effect over time added an aesthetic appeal, blending with the natural surroundings.

Another example is a Melbourne suburban house that used recycled bricks for its edging. This sustainable approach not only enhanced the garden’s look but also reduced waste. The unevenness and different shades of the bricks added a rustic charm.

Lastly, a Japanese-inspired garden in Seattle used natural rocks as edging. This design created a tranquil, organic ambiance, harmoniously merging with the Zen garden. These case studies demonstrate the endless possibilities for innovative landscape edging.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Much Does It Typically Cost to Install Modern Landscape Edging in a Standard-Sized Yard?

The cost of installing landscape edging varies significantly based on materials and labor. On average, homeowners might spend between $200 to $400 for a standard-sized yard. Premium materials can increase this cost substantially.

What Is the Average Lifespan of Contemporary Landscape Edging Materials?

The lifespan of contemporary landscape edging materials varies. Metal edging can last over 20 years, while plastic can last up to 10 years. Durable materials like concrete and stone might even last a lifetime.

What Are Some Common Challenges Homeowners Face When Installing Modern Landscape Edging?

When installing landscape edging, homeowners often face challenges such as selecting the right materials, managing the cost, handling difficult terrain, and maintaining the edging’s appearance and durability over time.

Which Modern Landscape Edging Designs Are Best Suited for Drought-Prone Regions?

For drought-prone regions, gravel or stone edging designs are ideal. They do not require water, are durable, and add a modern aesthetic. Also, using native, drought-tolerant plants can enhance the overall landscape design.

Can Modern Landscape Edging Increase the Value of My Property?

Yes, modern landscape edging can increase your property’s value. It enhances curb appeal, creates clear boundaries, and shows meticulous care for your outdoor space, which can attract potential buyers and raise your home’s market value.

Conclusion

In conclusion, modern landscape edging is more than just creating boundaries. It’s about enhancing your outdoor space with innovative designs and materials that suit your contemporary home. With proper maintenance, these edging ideas can make your garden truly stand out. So, why not give your home a modern twist with these landscape-edging ideas?

As soon as late summer edges toward fall in New York, I begin to lick my pawpaw-loving lips. As this native North American fruit gains mainstream recognition it has become easier to source both the fresh fruit as well as the pawpaw saplings. Despite the rising tide of awareness, many people are still unfamiliar with them and have yet to taste a fresh pawpaw. And if you have lusted after the perfumed fruit but have not met one,  there are few things you may not know.

Here are 15 of them.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

1. “Pawpaw” actually refers to two completely different and unrelated fruit.

The pawpaw under discussion is the native North American fruit belonging to the genus Asimina. The cold-hardy common pawpaw is A. triloba, but there are over a dozen other species, with regional distributions that cleave to the eastern and Mid-Western parts of the United States, from southern Canada down to Florida.

In regions and countries with Commonwealth and British colonial histories (think Australia, England, India, South Africa, the West Indies, and more) the common name “pawpaw” refers to what anyone from the Americas calls papaya. Soft-skinned and subtropical, small or football-sized, that pawpaw, Carica papaya, has yellow to deep rose flesh and is filled in the center with little black, peppery seeds. It is available in many grocery stores, year-round.

2. For the Shawnee, September is the month of the pawpaw moon, ha’siminikiisfwa.

The botanical genus name Asimina is derived from the Shawnee word for pawpaw: ha’simini. For the Shawnee, September is the month of the pawpaw moon, ha’siminikiisfwa, according to Joel Barnes, Archives Director for the Shawnee Tribe (via a West Virginia Public Radio interview in a 2020).

Until the 19th century, before they were forcibly removed by the US government, the Shawnee’s ancestral lands were in pawpaw-rich Appalachia, including current southeast Ohio.

3. The fruit has inspired an annual three-day festival.

The three-day Pawpaw Festival in southeast Ohio in September is a celebration of everything pawpaw. There are pawpaw tastings, and dozens of pawpaw dishes to choose from. Chris Chmiel is one of the founders of the festival and the co-owner (with Michelle Gorman, his wife) of Integration Acres, which has sold fresh pawpaws, frozen pawpaw purée, and other native wild things to the public since 1996. (The first pawpaws I tasted were shipped from Ohio’s woodland’s to my Brooklyn front door in 2016.)

4. The crew of the trans-continental Lewis and Clarke expedition were sustained by “poppaws.”

My name is Eric Peterson, and like most gardeners I have been into gardening since I was a child. I live on a 3,900-square-foot lot in Portland, Oregon (Zone 8b). I started my garden when I moved in about 12 years ago. Originally I was renting the house and started a container garden made mostly of plants that I would find on Craigslist for free. It made sense to have my plants in containers so I could take them with me if I moved. I continue to rescue unwanted plants when people are ready to give them a new home. We ended up buying the house in 2017 and still have a lot of container plants.

I like to collect a lot of antiques and display them in the garden wherever I can. In this photo I displayed a lot of my desert plants, including a golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii, Zones 9–11), Euphorbia lactea (Zones 10–11), Euphorbia ammak (Zones 10–11), Aloe ‘Hercules’ (Zones 10–11), and Aloe arborescens ‘Variegata’ (Zones 9–11).

The stained glass conservatory was made out of recycled bricks and old barn wood. I made most of the stained glass windows myself. I cut and folded the copper shingles with my family. I made them in the shape of dragon scales. When I designed it, I wanted the light to be filtered to keep it cooler in the summer so it would be more of a livable space instead of your average overheated greenhouse that is too warm to enjoy in the summer. It has taken about three years to complete this project.

I am always pushing the zone with tropical plants and vines like Passiflora ‘Scarlet Flame’ (Zones 9–11). The antique phone booth in the background was quite a challenge to move in. I had to rent a crane because it’s cast iron and weighs 1,700 pounds. We had to lift it over and under power lines to move it to the house.

The small garden is surrounded by big Yucca rostrata (Zones 7–11) that were rescued when their previous owner posted them for free on the Nextdoor app. I saved them from the chainsaw that the owner was going to take to them if no one wanted them. There are also Agave parryi (Zones 6–9) and large Agave ‘Blue Glow’ (Zones 8–11). Photo: Loree Bohl

Most of the Yucca rostrata stand over 10 feet tall in their pots.

Another Yucca rostrata sits next to a Nolina nelsonii (Zones 7–10) and an Agave americana (Zones 8–10) underneath an antique windmill.

On the right there is a very large, very heavy Agave gentryi (Zones 7–10), another rescued plant. It took a small team of volunteers to help rescue this agave, as it weighed about 500 pounds. In the back there is a fireplace made out of recycled bricks and stone that were found for free on Craigslist.

The rescued agave is about 6 feet wide and 4 feet tall. Behind it you can see a Trachycarpus fortunei ‘Wagnerianus’ (Zones 7–11). I’ve planted seven of them on my small lot. I’m hoping for a palm grove effect as they mature.

I added a lot of lighting in the greenhouse in hopes of catching NASA’s attention with a glowing stained glass greenhouse.

I’ve hung three large chandeliers and a couple of phonograph horns with oversized lightbulbs for a steampunk effect.

Chandeliers in the greenhouse

Thank you for letting me share my garden and greenhouse with everyone. Like any good gardener I’m not finished, and I’ll have more for you to see later.

If you want to see more from Eric, check out his Instagram: @ericpeterson89

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Venus flytraps (Dionaea muscipula) are carnivorous species native to the watery peat bogs of North and South Carolina.

They’re best known for their striking colors – red, yellow, green, blood orange – and their unique method of catching prey.

When an insect or a spider disturbs the hairs on the upper surface of their leaves, the trap will snap shut and the plant will slowly digest its prey.

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Unfortunately, wild populations are considered endangered due to habitat loss and poaching. However, they are available commercially in a way that does not impact wild populations.

In our guide to growing Venus flytraps, we cover how to cultivate these unique specimens in your home.

It can be very disappointing to find the striking colors of your carnivorous beauty fading to an inky black.

Can anything be done to save your plant or prevent it from happening again? That’s what we’ll cover in this guide. Here’s the lineup:

Sometimes, a Venus flytrap turning black just signals that it’s entering dormancy.

When the days grow colder and shorter, this triggers the plant to die back, conserving energy in the rhizome. The foliage will turn black before it eventually wilts.

This is completely normal and the colors will return when the long days and warmer temperatures return.

Venus flytraps require about ten weeks in dormancy to have strong growth next season.

If you have your plant inside, place it in an area with low light and cooler temperatures for three months.

If you do this, the lowest temperature your flytraps can be subjected to is 45℉. You can provide this by placing them on a porch or basement.

After three months, move your plants back into their warm, brightly lit area or back under the grow light and they will start sprouting again.

But why is this a common phenomenon when the temperatures are warm and the days are long?

Traps can turn black for a variety of reasons, including inadequate light or the wrong type of water. It could also be an issue with the potting media they are growing in or a response to damage from pests.

If it’s not the right time for the plant to be going dormant, then let’s take a look at the top five reasons why your Venus flytrap may turn black and what to do about them.

1. Not Enough Light

Since Venus flytraps are used to direct light exposure, they need at least six hours – preferably 12 hours – of sunlight per day.

Without it, they will start to turn black and potentially die through lack of photosynthesis. Thankfully, this is an easy problem to fix.

If you are lucky enough to have an area in your home that receives six hours or more of bright light, then you are golden. Simply move the plants into an area with more light and they should recover.

If your home is naturally quite dark, you may need to use a grow light to provide the sunlight your plants need.

When choosing a grow light, you will need to purchase one that is at least 40 watts, and keep it on for 12 to 16 hours per day to mimic natural light.

45 Watt LED Panel

I would recommend this 45 Watt LED grow light panel available from AeroGarden.

I love this model because the stand height is adjustable and it can be tilted over your Venus flytraps to provide direct light.

2. Pest Infestation

When grown outdoors, Venus flytraps have natural enemies such as birds, raccoons, and squirrels, who will happily dig them up or cause damage.

However, inside your home, the biggest problems for these carnivorous plants are aphids and spider mites. In the case of a large infestation, black spots may appear on the leaves, especially on young, new growth.

Aphids can be green, brown, or yellow in color and feed on the leaves. To get rid of them, pick them off with tweezers or gently wash them away with a spray bottle.

Spider mites look like tiny dots scurrying across the foliage. To get rid of them, spray your plant with a miticide that will help kill the pests and help to prevent future infestations.

Once the pest problem has been addressed, your plant will recover and regrow new foliage.

If your Venus flytrap has been ravaged by aphids or spider mites to the point that it is black and decaying, you will have to dispose of the plant and start over. 

In the wild, Venus flytraps thrive in bogs which typically consist of spongy, partially decayed plant matter called peat, which is naturally acidic and deficient in nutrients.

To replicate these conditions you can use peat moss or coconut coir mixed with equal parts coarse sand.

4. Too Much or Too Little Food

In the wild, Venus flytraps catch their prey by capturing them in their traps before digesting them slowly. Hopefully, your plant doesn’t have a ton of live prey to catch while living in your home!

This means that you have to provide them with sustenance. However, feeding a Venus flytrap incorrectly can cause them to turn black and even die.

You’ll need to give them small, soft-bodied insects like crickets, flies, and mealworms. Bigger insects such as cockroaches or large spiders that don’t fit fully inside the trap aren’t able to be digested and will rot.

During the growing season, you should feed your plant one insect every four to six weeks. Only feed half of the traps at one time, or else you risk overfeeding which can kill the plant.

Never, ever feed your Venus flytrap raw meat! This can introduce disease-causing pathogens and waste your plant’s energy, which will ultimately cause it to turn black and die.

5. Water Issues

Venus flytraps are very sensitive to contaminants or nutrients in water. Their roots will burn if you use tap water or bottled water, which will result in the foliage turning black and dying.

When you water, be sure to use collected rainwater or distilled water. Tap water is treated and can contain high amounts of chlorine or fluoride, and bottled water generally contains minerals that your plant will not appreciate.

Overwatering or underwatering can also cause the foliage to blacken. The former can cause root rot, which will eventually kill the plant, and the latter will cause it to wilt and die.

You want to aim to provide consistent moisture without making the potting medium soggy or waterlogged. Bottom watering can help you get the balance just right.

Keep Calm and Flytrap On

Now you know what to do if your Venus flytrap has started to turn black.

Start by checking how much light your plant is receiving and the potting media that it’s living in before re-examining your watering and feeding schedule. And don’t forget to inspect for pests!

Are you growing Venus flytraps? Have you had a problem with them turning black? Let us know in the comments section below!

And if you want to learn more about carnivorous plants, check out these guides next:

Cordyline fruticosa

In my 24-plus years on Earth, I’ve found that it’s difficult to feel bummed out in a tropical paradise.

If you’re trying to bring a taste of the tropics into your home and lighten the mood, why not grow a Hawaiian ti plant? Pull back the shades, put on some Jimmy Buffett, and it’ll almost feel like you’re at the beach!

Beams of sunlight and “Margaritaville” aside, an indoor space with a Cordyline fruticosa or two can be really inviting.

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With lush, colorful leaves and an eye-catching size, a Hawaiian ti plant makes for a delightful addition to almost any room.

But keeping a Hawaiian ti plant healthy and happy indoors requires that you cater to its physiological needs so that it feels like it’s in the tropics… and that can be tough if you don’t know how.

That’s why we’ve whipped up this guide: to give you that necessary know-how. After reading it, you’ll be able to keep your Hawaiian-themed hangouts looking quite on-brand.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

What Are Hawaiian Ti Plants?

Hawaiian ti plants – aka Cordyline fruticosa, or simply ti plants – are broadleaf evergreen perennials which hail from tropical regions of maritime Southeast Asia, north Australia, and west Oceania.

It’s hard to know exactly where they originated and where they were introduced early on, but they’re currently found in Central and South America, and most of Oceania.

Formerly classified as a member of the Dracaena genus, ti plants are hardy in USDA Zones 10 to 12.

Hawaiian ti reach heights of up to 10 feet and spread up to five feet when grown outdoors. But they’ll often top out at around half of that size when grown as houseplants.

C. fruticosa flaunts spiral arrangements of thin, lance-shaped leaves, each about one to two feet long, four inches wide, and set on a two- to six-inch petiole.

In the standard species, the color starts off purple to red and can later mature to a deep green.

As the plant ages, the lower leaves yellow and drop from the central stem, leaving rings of leaf scars that turn woody over time.

In spring to summer, Hawaiian ti plants send up panicles of small, star-shaped flowers in white, pale yellow, pink, or light purple colors. Indoor flowering is rare, and it typically won’t happen without ample sunlight and fertilization.

If the flowers are pollinated – again, not very likely when grown as houseplants – they’ll give way to small berries of a green, yellow, or red hue. Below the soil line grow thick, rhizomatous root systems.

The entire Hawaiian ti plant contains toxic saponins which can cause hypersalivation, bloody vomit and stools, depression, and anorexia if consumed by household pets such as cats and dogs.

If they consume large quantities, it should be treated as a life-threatening emergency that requires swift medical care and/or poison control.

If you’re human, then I wouldn’t go eating a raw C. fruticosa houseplant, either. Although historically, the roots have been steamed, fermented, or boiled to make them edible.

Speaking of history…

Cultivation and History

Despite how awesome it looks, the Hawaiian ti plant is more than just a pretty face. Maybe not the best idiom for discussing something that’s faceless, but you get my drift.

Nowhere is this more evident than in Polynesia. Early Polynesians believed that C. fruticosa had god-like powers.

Its leaves were worn around the neck, waist and ankles as well as hung around dwellings to ward off evil, living ti plants were cultivated for good luck – earning them the nickname “good luck plant” – and the form of C. fruticosa was imitated in feathered kähili standards, which were displays of royalty.

Ti plants became even more significant once they were introduced into Hawaii.

There, the plants became known as “Ki,” and they were revered as sacred flora of the deities Lono and Laka.

Along with the above beliefs and uses, the leaves were placed in waters to test for sharks or supernatural creatures: a floating leaf signaled safety, while one that sank was an omen of danger.

Hawaiians also use ti roots to make beer, brandy, and laxatives, and consume them straight-up as sweet treats after preparation.

A ton of old-school applications are still in use in Hawaii today. The leaves are used in constructing rain gear, sandals, fishnets, sleds, hula dance outfits, luau decorations, and roofs.

They can also be used as feed for cattle and horses, be wrapped around foods prior to steaming, and even compliment entrees as an inedible garnish.

Many Hawaiian ti varieties are cultivated specifically for their cut foliage, which is used by florists in beautiful arrangements. Plus, the living specimens make wonderful plantings for indoor decor or outdoor landscapes.

Hawaiian Ti Plant Propagation

There are many different ways to propagate a Hawaiian ti plant. For indoor growers, you can take cane cuttings, use air layering, or transplant a purchased container plant.

Division and sowing from seed are other effective means of propagation, but those are best left for gardeners who grow their C. fruticosa specimens outside, since indoor plants stay more compact and don’t flower as easily, much less set fruit.

For a more in-depth breakdown on how to sow seeds or divide, check out our guide to growing ti plants outdoors. (coming soon!).

From Cane Cuttings

To take cane cuttings, you’ll need to find a mature ti plant, whether it’s your own or a friend’s. If it’s the latter, make sure to ask for their permission first. If someone hacked up my ti plant without asking, then they’d have made an enemy for life!

If you observe the ti plant’s structure above the soil line, you’ll notice that the top portion will have the leaves, petioles, and soft central stem, while the portion below that will be a mature, woody stem.

Using a sharp and sterile pair of hand pruners, make your first cut at least three inches below the point where the tender growth becomes mature wood. Remove the lowermost quarter of basal leaves to compensate for the lack of stem tissue, and you’ve got your first cutting.

If you return your attention to the original ti plant, now you should have a thin, woody stem sticking up from the soil line. To take more cuttings, you can remove three-inch stem cuttings until the original stem is three inches tall.

So now, you should have at least one cutting with the leaves still attached, and perhaps a number of three-inch stem sections. I know that taking cuttings from a C. fruticosa may seem a bit more drastic than what you’d do for other plants, but trust me – it’ll bounce back!

Stick the leafy cutting in a four- to six-inch container filled with a 50:50 mix of sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite, making sure to submerge the lower three quarters of the stripped stem, and moisten the media.

Scraping your pruner blades along the stem beforehand to lightly damage it can help speed up rooting, although it’s not necessary.

Your stem-only cuttings should go in four- to six-inch containers filled with a similar media.

Submerge three quarters of the stem section underneath the soil line, making sure it is the right way up, and moisten the media. Just like before, feel free to lightly damage the outer surface of the stem to promote faster rooting.

Now that you have all your cuttings potted up and watered in, set them somewhere indoors where they will receive bright, indirect light with temperatures of 65 to 95°F.

Make sure to keep the soil moist, but not wet, and mist the air around the cuttings with a water-filled spray bottle two to three times a day until rooting occurs, which should take two to four weeks.

At this point, supplementary water vapor is only necessary if the ambient humidity is less than 40 percent.

Repot as needed to provide the roots with an inch or two of elbow room, and you’ll have yourself an established houseplant after a month or two!

Air Layering

Normal layering won’t work for a ti plant as its stem is stiff and unbendable, but air layering is the perfect technique to try.

Take a healthy and mature indoor Hawaiian ti plant, and observe the top three inches of the woody tissue. Take the bottom two inches of that section, and remove the outermost tissue from all around the stem with a sharp, sterile blade.

You should now be left with a two-inch-long ring of stripped stem underneath a single inch of undisturbed woody tissue.

Take some moist sphagnum peat moss, clump it around the exposed stem, then wrap it up with some clear plastic wrap. Tie the ends so it all stays tight, and thus begins the waiting game.

Keep the peat moist with a skinny watering can nozzle or syringe, and roots should form in two months or so.

You can check for root growth by moving the peat moss aside as necessary.

Gently unwrap the roots and snip your air layer away from the stem tissue below. Now you’re ready to transplant!

Transplanting

Whether you have a cutting that needs repotting, an air-layered propagule that needs a permanent home, a potted Hawaiian ti plant that you’ve purchased, or you simply want a snazzy container upgrade, transplanting is the move.

Fill a container an inch shy of the lip with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and vermiculite. If you’d prefer it, coconut coir is a suitable alternative to peat.

Make sure that the bottom of the container has drainage holes and that its diameter is a couple of inches wider than the transplant’s root system.

Prepare a hole that’s large enough for the transplant’s root system, lower the ti plant in so that its crown is level with the soil line, backfill the hole with soil, and water it all in so that the media is nice and moist. Presto, ya done transplanted!

For extra credit, place a saucer underneath the plant so that any water seepage doesn’t damage your flooring.

How to Grow Hawaiian Ti Plants

For a tropical specimen like C. fruticosa, it’s extremely important to provide suitable conditions to keep it happy and healthy. Let’s discuss how!

Climate and Exposure Needs

As tropical flora suitable for USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 12, Hawaiian ti plants thrive in hot, humid conditions.

Indoor growers should provide a temperature somewhere between 65 and 95°F, and a humidity of 40 to 60 percent. Thermostats, space heaters, grouping plants, humidifiers, and misting are all effective means of modifying temperature and humidity.

Cold and drafty areas will make the above much harder, so be sure to only “keep it breezy” in the metaphorical sense.

Bright, indirect light will help your ti plants to flaunt those oh-so-vibrant colors. They can definitely manage with a little less light, but it’s not optimal.

Ti plants are especially sensitive to fluoride, so distilled or deionized water sources would be ideal.

Pruning and Maintenance

As a Hawaiian ti plant grows and matures, its lower leaves may turn yellow or brown. Prune these off where they meet the stem as you see them, along with any other dead, diseased, or damaged leaves.

Pruning can also be used to control a specimen’s size. Cut it down to a height of six inches and you’ll rejuvenate it, as well as cause it to grow leaves lower down on the stem.

Be sure to empty any drainage-collecting saucers if they take on water faster than it evaporates. And don’t forget to repot as necessary! A cramped root system is very much no bueno.

Hawaiian Ti Plant Cultivars to Select

The colorful leaves of C. fruticosa are its best feature, no doubt. And with a plethora of cultivars to choose from, you can grow one in all sorts of hues.

But don’t get me wrong: the standard species is plenty pretty, and can be purchased in a three-gallon container from Brighter Blooms at Home Depot.

Now, if you’d allow me to harp on my three favorite varieties…

Black Mystique

I know this gardening hobby is supposed to be all bright and cheery, but there’s nothing wrong with going a bit emo every now and then.

Growing three to five feet wide and four to eight feet tall, ‘Black Mystique’ flaunts beautiful, purple-black foliage that can really stand out when placed near your standard green-leaved houseplants.

Candy Cane

Reaching a similar size as the standard species, this variety stands out with its uniquely tricolored foliage.

Lush with green leaves that are streaked with light pink and cream, ‘Candy Cane’ certainly lives up to its sweet name.

Florica

Love colors that straddle the line between bright and dark?

Then you’ll want to grow ‘Florica,’ a cultivar that grows up to six feet tall and eight feet wide while bearing reddish-purple to reddish-pink leaves.

‘Florica’

For a ‘Florica’ specimen in a three-gallon pot, be sure to visit FastGrowingTrees.com.

Morning Sunshine

Are you a hue enthusiast? More specifically, a lot of hues? Then the standard-sized ‘Morning Sunshine’ is where it’s at.

With leaves that come in brilliant shades of green, yellow, orange, pink, purple, and cream, ‘Morning Sunshine’ has the aesthetic goods to satisfy lovers of colors.

Rising Sun

Continuing with the “sun in the morning” theme… who says you have to step outside to catch the sunrise?

At a height and width of three to five feet, ‘Rising Sun’ has vibrant, light- to dark-green leaves with pink margins.

Juvenile leaves emerge in white bordered with pink, which provide a unique bit of visual interest during the growing season.

‘Rising Sun’

You can find ‘Rising Sun’ in six-inch and three-gallon containers available at FastGrowingTrees.com. 

Managing Pests and Disease

Thankfully, houseplants don’t face as many health threats as outdoor flora. But as 24-hour bugs and actual bugs show, the home isn’t entirely free from pests and pathogens.

Insects

Since insects can occasionally vector disease-causing pathogens, it’s doubly important to look out for them. Here are some to keep your eyes peeled for:

Aphids

A common pest both indoors and out, aphids are rounded, soft-bodied, and pear-shaped insects that congregate in clusters on leaves and stems.

Sucking the sap out of plants with their piercing-sucking mouthparts, aphids can cause stunting, wilting, reduced color, speckling, deformation, and even leaf loss.

Plus, they also excrete honeydew, which can attract ants and lead to the formation of black sooty mold.

Bonide Insecticidal Soap

Sprays of insecticidal soap on infested plant parts should help a lot with control.

Go with a product like Bonide’s ready-to-use insecticidal soap, available in various volumes at Arbico Organics. Don’t ignore the undersides of leaves and the gaps between them!

You can learn more about aphids and how to eradicate them in our guide.

Scale

Scale are small, armored or soft-bodied insects that gather in sedentary clumps on leaves and stems.

Like aphids, they use piercing-sucking mouthparts to extract plant juices, which causes chlorotic streaks that expand out from the feeding sites.

You can scrape these pests off with an edged tool or by hand, or you can spray them with horticultural oil.

Monterey Horticultural Oil

For some oil, try Monterey’s ready-to-spray horticultural oil, available in ready-to-use and concentrated forms at Arbico Organics.

Learn more about scale insects in our guide.

Spider Mites

Nearly impossible to see with the naked eye, spider mites are tiny, bristly arachnids that extract plant fluids, like aphids and scale, which causes wilting, chlorosis, and stunted growth.

Clumps of webbing will reveal their presence from afar, while a hand lens will highlight the individual pests.

Insecticidal soap and neem oil are both effective forms of control, along with strong sprays of water to physically blast the pests off of plant surfaces. For the latter, be sure to take the specimen outside first!

We’ve got more information about spider mites here.

Disease

Sterilizing your cutting implements, avoiding splashing the foliage, and promptly removing unhealthy leaves are all solid techniques for preventing possible infections.

But for more specific disease prevention tips, read on.

A quick note before you do, though: the following fungal diseases may be prevented by the use of fungicide sprays.

If you opt to use them, be sure to take your specimens outside prior to application. If you’d rather not use them, no worries – cultural prevention can be just as effective.

Fusarium Root and Stem Rot

Caused by species of Fusarium fungi, Fusarium stem and root rot is promoted by overly wet and humid conditions.

In conditions of high moisture, the fungus can attack the plant which causes dieback, loosening bark, and basal lesions. Internally, the woody tissue can become desiccated while the roots turn mushy and brown.

Prevention is best achieved by ensuring adequate drainage and not overwatering. If a plant is found to be infected, go ahead and pitch it – it’s worth it in the long run.

Phyllosticta Leaf Spot

Thanks to a “spot” of Phyllosticta dracaenae fungi, the older leaves of specimens afflicted with Phyllosticta leaf spot will manifest small spots of a roundish, irregular shape, bordered with purple and surrounded by yellow halos.

The spots hinder a plant’s ability to conduct photosynthesis, and are ugly to boot. Infected leaves should be pruned immediately. Excess water is a causal factor of this condition, so don’t forget to provide ample drainage and keep the soil from becoming soggy!

Phytophthora Leaf Spot

Caused by the fungus-like oomycete Phytophthora nicotianae, Phytophthora leaf spot causes the lower foliage to take on a water-soaked appearance and become riddled with patches of brown necrotic tissue.

As this pathogen likes to hang out in the soil, you should dispose of the infected specimen, sanitize its container, and replace it with fresh growing media.

As with the other diseases mentioned, reining in excess moisture makes a world of preventative difference.

Best Uses for Hawaiian Ti Plants

A ti plant can be used in all sorts of ways throughout the home. You can place it alone as a focal point, set it near another plant as an accent, or even group multiple specimens together in a beautiful colony!

And healthy leaves can make for a delightful addition to floral arrangements, if that sort of thing tickles your fancy.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Broadleaf Evergreen Perennial	Flower/Foliage Color:	Lavender, pale yellow, pink, white / Purple to red, variegated
Native to:	North Australia, Southeast Asia, west Oceania	Water Needs:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	10-12	Maintenance:	Moderate
Bloom Time:	Spring to summer	Tolerance	Direct sun, light shade
Exposure:	Bright indirect light	Soil Type:	Tropical potting mix or 50:50 mix of peat moss/coconut coir and vermiculite
Time to Maturity:	2-5 years	Soil pH:	5.5-6.5
Spacing:	18-24 inches	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Depth of root system (transplants)	Order:	Asparagales
Height:	3-10 feet	Family:	Asparagaceae
Spread:	2-5 feet	Genus:	Cordyline
Common Pests and Diseases:	Aphids, scale, spider mites; Fusarium stem and root rot, Phyllosticta leaf spot, Phytophthora leaf spot	Species:	Fruticosa

For Instant Glee, Go With Some Ti

No, not that musical dramedy television series – I’m talking about pure delight. The kind that you feel when you’ve got a beautiful Hawaiian ti plant livening up the place.

Fun to care for and even more fun to look at, the Hawaiian ti plant definitely deserves some real estate in your home. And after you gain some growing experience, you too will be singing its praises!

Any questions, concerns, or remarks you have about growing C. fruticosa? Head to the comments section and let your fingers do the talking.

Need some more houseplants to keep the tropical theme going? Then you’ll really want to add these to your indoor garden:

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