Category: Home & Garden

Today we’re visiting with Jill Hammond.

I very much enjoy getting your daily photos of gardens from around the world, most of which seem to be in the Northern Hemisphere. I thought I would share some photos of my garden in New Zealand.

My husband and I have lived on 7.5 hectares (18.5 acres) in rural Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, for 28 years. We moved our 100-year-old villa onto our bare piece of land, and I set about developing our garden from scratch. There was not one single tree or plant present, and at first I was a wee bit overwhelmed with how to start. Just getting stuck in was the answer, and now we have a garden which is gradually maturing. I love being able to underplant some of the areas where I now have some shade, allowing me to grow hostas, hydrangeas, rhododendrons, and other shade-loving plants, which for so long I have only been able to see in other people’s gardens.

Many of my plants have come from my mother’s garden as cuttings and divisions. Like so many gardeners, I love this sharing of plants and knowledge, and then passing them on to other lovely recipients.

We have mild winters with occasional frosts, mild springs and autumns, and hot, dry summers with frequent droughts. I water plants in the first season to get them going, but then let them fend for themselves following that, so I do plant to the conditions and don’t mollycoddle. Having said that, I do water my vegetable potager garden.

The last two years we have had unseasonally wet summers, and this has led to the partial demise of some of my Buxus (boxwood) hedging (which has been a large feature of my garden) due to boxwood blight. I have had to remove some areas of this, as I simply do not want to have to spray regularly to manage it. This year we are back to El Niño weather patterns, and so I am hopeful that the drier summer will allow my remaining Buxus hedging to recover and not look too patchy.

This year several parts of New Zealand suffered cyclones, involving massive flooding events, and many people lost homes, gardens, and businesses such as farms and orchards. We count ourselves incredibly grateful not to have lost our garden and home. As we are all learning to cope with climate change and the disruptive weather patterns we are seeing all over the world, I urge all fellow gardeners out there to take some time off from pulling weeds and mulching gardens, to take some photos of your garden so that you have these wonderful memories to look back on, should anything untoward happen.

Trees on the property include a maturing red horse chestnut (Aesculus × carnea, Zones 5–8), Cornus controversa ‘Variagata’ (Zones 5–8), and a weeping beech (Fagus sylvatica ‘Pendula’, Zones 4–8).

One of the many Buxus hedges, this one close to the pool area

Mixed perennial/shrub border with Magnolia macrophylla (Zones 5–8) in the background and corkscrew topiaries, which I have had fun making over the years

The burgundy spires in this mixed border are Berberis ‘Helmond Pillar’ (Zones 4–8).

In this bank garden looking onto the house, perennials are a major feature in spring and summer.

Two espaliered double-grafted pear trees grow over the arbor. ‘Beurre Bosc’, ‘Taylor Gold’, and ‘Doyenne du Comice’ are very productive.

More of the potager: rosemary, borage, chives, and a mandarin orange tree in the background

A blue spruce tree (Picea pungens, Zones 1–7)

Jill shared so many great photos of her garden that we’ll be back tomorrow to see more!

 

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Whether you want to add a living stone to your succulent collection or are just interested to see what this incredible genus has cooked up evolutionarily speaking, you’ll certainly enjoy browsing this “rock” collection!

Here’s a sneak peek:

We’ll be looking at the characteristics that define each of these lithops species, including body shape, flower color, the number of heads to expect on mature specimens, face shape and texture, depth of the fissure, colors, whether windows are visible or not, and markings such as margins, channels, and rubrications.

If any of those terms are unfamiliar to you, you might want to brush up on your lithops lingo by reading our complete guide to growing and caring for living stones!

We’ll also look at mature sizes for the heads of each species, from tiny to very large. Remember, we’re talking about diminutive lithops plants here, so those sizes are relative! Here are the measurements you can expect:

• Tiny: less than roughly half an inch
• Small: about half an inch to three quarters of an inch
• Medium: around three quarters of an inch to one inch
• Large: approximately one inch to an inch and a quarter
• Very large: up to an inch and a half wide

For some of these species, we’ll also talk about water needs. Hailing from extremely arid locations, lithops bloom and produce new leaves seasonally, based on the availability of water in the locations in southern Africa where they evolved.

Most species should be watered from approximately late spring to early summer and from late summer to autumn. However, there are some exceptions – those that have different seasonal water needs are noted here.

Let me preface this tour of the Lithops genus by saying that if you’re the type of person who likes to know exactly what you’re going to get in a houseplant appearance-wise, these succulents may not be the best choice for you!

There is an incredible amount of variation among these tiny plants, even within a given subspecies or variety.

Most likely, this diversity is part of lithops’ strategy to camouflage themselves as stones, blending into the scenery so that they aren’t noticeable by herbivores. Rocks and pebbles don’t all look the same either do they?

Now that you know what to expect and are prepared to embrace ambiguity, let’s start exploring the world of living stones!

1. Amicorum

Named for a group of four amical friends who introduced this plant to the world of horticulture, some now consider L. amicorum to be a subspecies of L. karasmontana, a species we’ll encounter later in this article.

With slightly convex lobes, L. amicorum usually produces two to four heads at maturity and is one of the tiniest living stones in the Lithops genus.

From a top down view, the two faces together create an elliptical shape, and are smooth with a deep fissure between them.

Colored grayish, beige, pinkish-gray, or blueish-white, L. amicorum has wide, opaque windows that are beige or gray with many islands.

The margins on this lithops are discernible, but it usually has no channels. This succulent sometimes has rubrications or red dots, and produces white flowers.

2. Aucampiae

Winner of the RHS Award of Garden Merit in 2002, L. aucampiae (also known as L. turbiniformis) is more or less flat topped or slightly convex, and has unequal lobes.

This living stone usually produces two to five heads, but older specimens can sometimes produce 12 or more.

Kidney shaped faces have a smooth or slightly rough surface, and are separated by a shallow cleft.

There are no rubrications on this lithops, but it has many distinct dusky dots and produces bright yellow flowers.

5. Comptonii

L. compotonii has convex lobes on a heart shaped body profile.

This lithops usually produces only single heads, but sometimes will bear two or four, and occasionally up to 15.

Faces are semi-elliptical to kidney shaped and have a smooth or slightly rough texture with a deep fissure between lobes.

This medium sized living stone appears in dark green, purplish-green, or purplish-red, and has brown to purple windows dotted with islands that are pinkish-beige, light gray, or pale greenish-gray.

L. compotonii has distinct, toothed, grayish-green outer margins, and inner margins that are lobed.

This lithops’ channels are broad to narrow, it lacks rubrications, and bears lovely yellow flowers with white centers.

6. Dinteri

L. dinteri is flat topped or slightly convex in profile, with lobes of equal size.

This small lithops can appear with just a single head or in clumps of two or three, but sometimes produces more than seven heads.

Its faces are smooth to the touch, and rectangular shaped when viewed from above, with a shallow cleft between the two lobes.

With pale green, gray, pink, or brown faces and purplish-green sides, this living stone has large windows that are usually a translucent brownish-green.

With distinct margins, the inner margin is mostly straight, there are no islands, and usually no channels.

Instead, this living stone features bright red dots on the surface of the window, and sometimes red dashes or hooks as well.

L. dinteri bears a beautiful yellow flower.

7. Divergens

L. divergens has a double wedge shaped profile and usually grows in clumps of two to four heads, but is sometimes solitary and sometimes produces 10 heads or more.

Faces are half-moon shaped, with one lobe bigger than the other and surfaces that look wrinkled but are smooth or slightly rough.

The fissure is deep, and this small succulent has a wide fissure as well, with lobes sometimes quite separate from each other. They grow farther apart as the plants mature.

With a deep fissure, this small to medium sized living stone appears in beige, cream, or pale gray, sometimes tinted with green, pink, or yellow.

The windows are usually hidden behind an opaque looking surface, margins are usually not apparent, and islands are indistinct.

Faint, narrow channels are indented in the surface and are often grayish-green. Dusky dots in L. francisci are very numerous, indented, and colored dull green or gray.

Don’t expect any rubrications from this living stone – but do expect bright yellow flowers.

It’s best to water this lithops from fall through winter, as it would receive in its natural habitat. Water lightly with a spray bottle.

10. Fulviceps

L. fulviceps has a flat topped, heart shaped profile with flush faces and usually produces two to three heads but sometimes up to 10.

With kidney shaped faces that are slightly rough, this medium to large lithops has a shallow cleft between its two lobes.

L. fulviceps is found in shades of rusty yellow brown, orange brown, red brown, or gray brown with hints of green, purple, or pink.

Windows, margins, islands, and channels are usually absent or unnoticeable but rubrications are present in the form of dots, dashes, or branching lines.

This lithops has a distinguishing characteristic – the many raised, dusky dots spread over its faces, which can be dark gray, brown, or purple.

Expect yellow flowers from L. fulviceps.

11. Gesinae

With a heart shaped profile, L. gesinae produces one or two heads, or sometimes up to 10.

It has smooth, semi-elliptic or slightly kidney shaped faces separated by a deep fissure and fairly wide gap.

In shades of pinkish-gray, greenish-brown, or pinkish-brown, this small to large lithops usually has obstructed windows.

This lithops’ margins are usually distinct, as are its small to large islands which are pink, grayish-pink, or yellow.

Brownish-green to grayish-green channels are narrow to broad, rubrications are absent, and flowers are yellow.

12. Geyeri

With a heart shaped profile, L. geyeri has convex lobes and grows as a single head, in clumps of two to seven, or sometimes 12 or more.

Faces are semi-elliptic with a more or less smooth surface and a fairly deep cleft.

In small to large sizes, L. geyeri is gray to beige in color with windows that are usually large, and may be shades of dark green, brown, or gray.

This lithops has distinct margins, and its islands are usually indistinct flecks – these are beige or milky gray, sometimes with hints of cream, pink, or yellow.

These medium to large living stones are opaque gray or beige, with hints of yellow, blue, pink, green, orange, or reddish-brown, and have distinct margins.

Windows usually take the form of a network of broad or narrow channels marked with bold rubrications that can be red or brown. This flowers of this lithops are white.

15. Helmutii

L. helmutii has a heart shaped to double wedge shaped profile, and usually produces two to six heads but sometimes 26 or more.

Smooth faces are semi-elliptical with unequal sized lobes that have a very deep fissure and a wide gap between them.

These small to medium lithops are creamy colored with tinges of green, pink, or yellow.

In L. helmutii, windows are translucent, and islands can be few or many, large or small.

The inner margins of this lithops are usually straight and its outer margins tend to be lobed.

Channels are broad to narrow, rubrications are absent, and flowers are yellow with white centers.

16. Hermetica

L. hermetica has a heart shaped profile with flat-topped or slightly convex lobes.

Usually producing just one to two heads, this living stone has semi-elliptical or slightly kidney shaped faces that may be smooth or somewhat rough.

Lobes are separated by a deep fissure with a fairly wide gap between them.

A small to medium sized species, L. hermetica appears in dark and pale gray, sometimes tinged with green or red. It has windows and channels that are dark gray or greenish-gray.

Lobes are separated by a somewhat deep fissure on small to medium plants that are usually grayish-green, but can also be grayish-white, light brown, or pinkish-white.

Windows can be translucent or opaque on this lithops. Margins are distinct, there are often many islands, and channels can be gray, pale blue, greenish-gray, or brownish-grayish-green.

Rubrications are absent on this living stone, and flowers are dark yellow to bronze yellow with white centers.

Depart from the “official” lithops watering schedule and instead offer this succulent light moisture from fall through late winter with the help of a spray bottle.

18. Hookeri

Awarded with the RHS Award of Garden Merit in 2002, L. hookeri has lobes that are flat topped or slightly convex.

This living stone can live as a single, solitary head, or grow in clumps of over 10 heads, though usually it matures with two to four.

Faces are semi-elliptical, have bumpy surfaces, and are mostly the same size.

With shallow fissures, these medium to large lithops appear in opaque shades of brown, beige, or gray with windows taking on the form of reddish, pinkish, or orangish brown channels.

Faces are semi-elliptical to kidney shaped and of unequal size, usually rough with depressions on their surfaces.

These medium to large sized living stones have a fairly deep cleft, with bodies presenting in a wide variety of colors, but frequently whitish-gray to blueish-gray.

Windows are absent or barely perceptible – when present, they are usually grayish, blueish, or brownish.

Windows are obstructed by a latticework of patterns, revealing miniature round windows and channels that are dark green, greenish-brown, or blueish-green.

This lithops’ margins are slightly raised, and rubrications are absent. Flowers are usually yellow, but are sometimes, though rarely, white.

22. Localis

L. localis is a living stone that has a heart shaped profile with flush faces.

Also known as L. terricolor, this lithops species usually produces two to five heads, but sometimes more.

With smooth faces that are more or less semi-elliptical, this small plant has a deep fissure between its two lobes, and appears in opaque, pale shades of pink, yellow, green, blue, gray, brown and lilac.

Windows can be partly open or more or less hidden on L. localis. Margins and channels are usually not noticeable. Islands can be few or numerous and are fairly small.

There are no rubrications on this lithops, but there are numerous dusky dots. Flowers are yellow, sometimes with white centers.

23. Marmorata

L. marmorata has a heart shaped profile with flat topped to slightly convex lobes.

This multiheaded lithops often grows with just two to six heads, but sometimes produces 26 heads or more.

With semi-oval, smooth or slightly rough faces, and unequal, divergent lobes, this small to medium sized plant has a deep fissure.

This living stone has a marbled appearance with bodies in shades of opaque pale gray, blueish, greenish, cream, or pink, sometimes with tinges of light greenish-yellow, or purple.

Windows are dark, large, and mottled, usually with distinct margins and narrow to broad channels.

No rubrications will be found on this lithops, but do expect white flowers.

L. marmorata prefers winter waterings, so offer it moisture from fall through late winter.

24. Meyeri

With divergent, elongated lobes, L. meyeri is a living stone that usually appears at maturity with just two to three heads, but sometimes five.

Faces are smooth and slightly kidney shaped, with lobes separated by a deep fissure.

This small to large species can be found in opaque hues of white, pale creamy gray, yellow, pink, or milky green.

The windows of this plant are cloudy and hard to make out, margins and islands are not noticeable, and channels are absent or barely noticeable, appearing in a dull greenish-gray when present.

L. meyeri is rubrication free, and has yellow blooms with white centers.

This lithops thrives with very light applications of water, offered from a spray bottle, or just drops at a time.

25. Naureeniae

L. naureeniae has a profile that is double wedge shaped to heart shaped, with lobes that are either flat topped or convex, producing usually two to five heads, but sometimes over 28.

Faces are smooth and semi-elliptical, with a deep and wide fissure separating the two lobes.

This small to medium plant is gray, beige, pink, or pale reddish-brown. Its windows are usually obstructed but are sometimes completely open, appearing in grayish-green, greenish, brownish, or reddish-gray.

L. olivacea features large open windows, usually scattered with just a few small, distinct islands.

Margins are distinct, there are usually no channels, and rubrications are absent.

The flowers of this lithops are yellow with white centers.

27. Optica

L. optica has a heart shaped profile with convex, divergent lobes.

This plant usually produces two to five heads, but mature clumps can have more than 20 heads.

Faces are smooth, usually kidney shaped, and unequal sizes with deep fissures between lobes.

Small plants are grayish-green or milky pink, with windows that are usually open and usually lack islands.

Windows are dark grayish-green or ruby red, depending on the body color.

Margins are distinct, channels are absent except on one form of the plant, and rubrications are absent.

Flowers are white on this lithops, sometimes with pink tips.

Faces are more or less semi-elliptic, and can be smooth or slightly rough with a deep cleft between lobes.

These living stones are small to medium, and are shades of gray, tinged with pink, cream, green, or blue.

This lithops is particularly easy to recognize.

For most specimens, wide windows with broad to narrow channels are bordered by distinct margins that have rounded peninsulas, grouped with scalloped islands.

Islands can be few to many, and are often quite large.

There are no rubrications on L. otzeniana, whose flowers are yellow with white centers.

This living stone should be watered lightly starting in autumn through early spring.

29. Pseudotruncatella

Winner of the RHS Award of Garden Merit in 2002, L. pseudotruncatella has flat or rounded lobes.

Mature plants usually have two to four heads, sometimes only one, and sometimes over 20 per clump.

Faces are smooth, kidney shaped, and often of unequal sizes.

This large to very large plant has a shallow cleft between its two lobes, and appears in shades of green, pink, blue, gray, white, or beige.

This is an extremely variable species, with five subspecies and many varieties.

Windows are sometimes apparent, but are usually reduced to small round dots that have a greenish or grayish color. Margins, channels, and islands vary depending on the subspecies, but one of the common features is a branching network of rubrications.

This lithops bears yellow flowers.

30. Ruschiorum

L. ruschiorum has a heart shaped profile with convex lobes.

Mature plants usually grow in clumps of two to five heads, but can sometimes produce as many as 30.

Faces are kidney shaped with smooth or slightly rough surfaces.

Medium sized plants have a deep fissure and opaque faces that are cream colored or grayish, yellowish, or pinkish-white.

Windows and margins are absent, and channels are usually missing as well. When channels are present, they appear as a disconnected network of grooves and pits, sometimes marked with rubrications.

L. ruschiorum bears lovely yellow flowers.

Plan on giving this lithops water from fall to late winter, preferably via a spray bottle.

31. Salicola

With a flat-topped profile, L. salicola was bestowed with the RHS Award of Garden Merit in 2002.

This plant usually counts two to five heads at maturity, but can sometimes produce over 50!

Smooth faces are kidney shaped, giving the plant an elliptical form when viewed from above.

These plants are tiny to small and have shallow clefts between their lobes.

Medium sized plants have shallow fissures and appear in shades of gray, yellow, or brown, with opaque or translucent grayish green windows, depending on the subspecies.

The margins on this succulent are not well defined, and plants feature channels that are either fine networks of grooves or broad and translucent.

This lithops has rubrications, in the form of a connected or broken network of lines, dashes, hooks, and dots.

Flowers are yellow on these plants. Of note, unlike most species whose old leaves dry up as new ones emerge, the still plump old leaves remain on these plants after new leaves emerge for up to one to two years.

33. Vallis-Mariae

L. vallis-mariae has slightly convex lobes, and produces two to four heads but sometimes 10 or more.

Faces are more or less kidney shaped, with slightly rough surfaces. They have either tiny wrinkles or are slightly pitted, which is a distinctive feature of this species.

Medium sized plants have a shallow cleft and are an opaque pale grayish-white color, sometimes tinged with hints of beige, green, pink, or yellow.

The windows are absent or are very hidden, margins are absent or are very opaque, and there are often no channels.

When channels are present they are usually opaque in shades of gray, blueish-gray, pinkish-gray, or pinkish-brown, and are sometimes indented. No rubrications are present on this lithops.

Flowers are usually yellow, but are sometimes orangish-yellow, and sometimes tinged with bronze or pink.

34. Verruculosa

L. verruculosa is a flat-topped species that produces two to four heads at maturity, but sometimes is found in clumps of up to eight heads.

Usually the faces have distinct kidney shapes, slightly rough to rough surfaces, and can be quite uneven in size.

These small to medium sized plants have a shallow cleft and appear in opaque gray or beige with tinges of blue, brown, green, pink, or yellow.

Windows are usually not noticeable, but are sometimes completely open.

In specimens with open windows, margins tend to be well defined but otherwise they are not obvious.

Channels are broad to narrow, in translucent shades of gray, brown, green, red, or blue.

Inspiring the plant’s species name, distinctive raised, red dots that look like warts or pimples usually grace the surface of L. verruculosa. These raised dots are rubrications.

The flower color in this succulent varies greatly – they can be white, yellow, orange, bronze, or shades of pink.

‘Rose of Texas’ is a cultivar of L. verruculosa that always produces pink flowers.

35. Villetii

L. villetii has a heart shaped profile, usually producing two to four heads, but sometimes up to seven.

With an elliptical form and kidney-shaped faces that are smooth or slightly rough, this small to medium plant has a shallow fissure.

Found in shades of green, yellow, gray, brown, pink, or mauve, L. villetii has large clear windows that feature small islands which can be few in number or quite numerous.

Distinct margins are somewhat raised in texture, while channels tend to be narrow.

There are no rubrications on this lithops, which bears white flowers.

36. Viridis

L. viridis has a heart shaped profile, with mature plants usually displaying two to four heads, but sometimes up to eight.

Viewed from above, the plant has an elliptic shape, with smooth faces and a deep fissure between the two lobes.

Plants are small and colored opaque grayish pink, cream, beige, or green hues.

This lithops’ open windows usually have green tones and are translucent, with distinct margins.

There are no channels or rubrications, and flowers are yellow with white centers.

Water L. viridis lightly from fall to early spring.

37. Werneri

L. werneri has flat topped lobes with a heart shaped profile.

Mature plants usually have just two to three heads, but sometimes exist in clumps of up to 10.

The two slightly rough faces make an elliptic shape and are separated by a fairly deep fissure.

Small plants are opaque and light gray, or greenish, pinkish, or yellowish gray.

Windows are either not noticeable at all or present as broad or narrow channels. The outer margin is usually not distinct while the inner margin is generally a continuous line.

This lithops’ channels are furrowed, and there are rubrications and dusky dots as well.

Expect yellow flowers from L. werneri.

And then there are those species that are just exuberantly sense-provoking. They almost seem to be begging to be touched. Or their colors are so intriguing that you just can’t stop looking at them.

Purple passion plants have both of those last attributes – a beguiling coloration, as well as soft, velvety foliage. And those are far from their only desirable features.

Yes, there’s more, but you’ll have to read along to find out!

Ready to learn more about this ravishing houseplant – as well as how to care for it?

Here’s what we’ll cover:

In case you’re experiencing any confusion that this is not the species you’re looking for, this article is about a species commonly grown as a houseplant – not to be confused with purple passionflower, a type of Passiflora that is grown outdoors for its delicious fruit!

What Is Purple Passion Plant?

Purple passion plant (Gynura aurantiaca) is an evergreen perennial loved for its violet tinged foliage.

When they are young, the plants have an upright growth habit, but once stems are longer, they start to sprawl and trail.

If you inspect an individual leaf, you’ll find it is more or less oval shaped, pointed, and with coarsely toothed margins. Leaves can grow up to eight inches long.

Of course the real fascination with G. aurantiaca is not the shape of the leaves – it’s their texture and beguiling coloring.

The leaves are green with purple undersides and are covered with small purple hairs which give the foliage a velvety texture and a purple glow.

The stems are covered with these purple hairs as well. New growth has a particularly bright coloring, as it is more densely covered with these hairs.

The shade of green on the leaves darkens with increased sun exposure, and they can even develop an almost black hue. (Ready for a black houseplant collection, anyone?)

Purple passion plants grow to be one to two feet tall, but their stems can trail to a length of four feet or more – making them excellent candidates for growing in hanging baskets.

Flowers are yellowish orange and have a strong smell – some describe the smell as like that of rancid butter.

Others think the blooms smell like stinky socks, which is why most houseplant parents trim off any flower buds that appear before they open.

If flowers are allowed to remain, they transform into white puffballs of seed heads – reminiscent of the seed heads of their cousin, the dandelion.

Cultivation and History

Native to Indonesia, G. aurantiaca hails from a wet, tropical habitat where it grows as an understory plant.

A member of the sunflower family or Asteraceae, purple passion plant is related to many garden staples such as marigolds, lettuce, and asters, as well as houseplant favorites like string of pearls and gerbera daisies.

G. aurantiaca is also known as velvet, royal velvet, or purple velvet plant. In Indonesia it’s called “umyung.”

Purple passion plant may be the most well-known species in its genus, Gynura. A couple of other standout members of this genus are G. procumbens, known as “longevity spinach,” and G. bicolor, which is known as “Okinawan spinach.”

As for purple passion plant, it is considered nontoxic to humans, dogs, cats, and horses.

In fact, they contain antiviral properties and have been used medicinally by populations in their native regions.

While commonly used as an indoor, ornamental foliage plant, G. aurantiaca can also be grown outdoors year round in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 12.

Purple Passion Plant Propagation 

Seeds for G. aurantiaca are not easily obtained, so the best way to propagate this houseplant is via cuttings.

From Cuttings in Soil

Luckily, propagating via stem cuttings is easy and can be done at any time of the year.

Here’s what you’ll need: a mature specimen to take cuttings from, sterilized scissors or snips, growing medium, nursery pots, a butter knife, and rooting hormone, also known as cloning hormone (optional).

You can take your pick as to what size of pot to use – for instance, small, two- to three-inch nursery pots can be used for individual cuttings, or larger, six- to eight-inch pots can be used for multiple cuttings.

Fill the nursery pots with growing medium, leaving an inch between the surface of the soil and the rim of the pot to allow for watering.

Go ahead and wet the growing medium down after putting it in the nursery pots.

Next, use the butterknife to make holes in the growing medium. If you are using small nursery pots, make holes in the center of each one, or in the case of larger pots, space them two to three inches apart.

Now that the pots are ready, use the sterilized scissors or snips to take cuttings with at least two nodes, snipping right above a node. Remove the leaves from the bottom node.

If you’d like to use rooting hormone – now’s the time to apply it. Dab the rooting hormone onto the bottom inch of the cutting, especially the cut stem.

Place the pots in indirect light in a warm location, around 75°F is ideal, and keep the medium moist but not soggy.

If your home is on the dry side, offer the cutting a bit more humidity as it roots by placing a transparent plastic bag over the top to serve as a humidity dome.

Rather than seal the nursery pot into the bag, keep it loosely covering the rooting cutting instead, to prevent the buildup of too much humidity. Remove the bag after three to four days.

Cuttings should root within one to two weeks. Once cuttings are rooted, they can be cared for as potted specimens.

From Cuttings in Water

Velvet plant cuttings are easy to root in water as well.

However, since many cuttings have a harder time adjusting to soil-based living after being rooted in water, this is more of a stopgap measure for when you have a cutting but don’t have time to pot it up properly.

Take cuttings with at least two nodes, remove the bottom two leaves, and place the cuttings in a transparent jar of water.

The recommendation to use a clear jar is not because the roots need light – it’s to help you notice when the jar needs refilling!

Place the jar in indirect light, in a location that is fairly warm – as close to 75°F as possible.

Add more water when the level dips, and change out the water entirely if it starts to look mucky.

When the roots are at least an inch long and you are ready to pot your water-grown cuttings, transplant them as indicated below in the repotting section.

How to Grow Purple Passion Plant

Velvet plants make low maintenance houseplants that are pretty easy to care for! Here’s what you’ll need to know:

They grow best and produce the most intense colors with bright or medium, indirect light.

Although they can also be grown as low light houseplants, their foliage won’t be as colorful, and their growth will be leggier.

Not sure what kind of light you have available in your home for G. aurantiaca? Try checking with a light meter.

As for watering, it’s best to keep the growing medium consistently moist, but definitely not soggy.

A good rule of thumb is to let the surface of the potting medium dry between waterings.

To prevent overly soggy conditions, make sure that both the pot and the growing medium are well-draining.

This temperature range is warmer than the average indoor conditions for folks living in centrally cooled and heated homes. That means you can place G. aurantiaca in warmer spots in your home if you really want to encourage your velvet plant to grow.

For instance, heat rises, so purple passion plants make good candidates for the “upper canopy” of your indoor jungle and can be placed on high shelves or elevated in hanging baskets to make use of those warmer microclimates.

On the other hand, temperatures higher than 80°F will encourage leggy growth, so there’s no need to push up your thermostat all in the name of that indoor jungle.

And if you’re keeping your houseplant outdoors during the summer months, watch your weather report as the mercury starts to drop in fall – temperatures below 55°F can cause injury to the plant.

Growing Tips

• Grow in bright or medium, indirect light.
• Choose growing medium that is moisture retentive but has good drainage.
• Water when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch.

Pruning and Maintenance

Watering time is a good moment to inspect your houseplant. You might find some faded leaves in the center of the pot – just pick them out and throw them in your compost container.

Watch for flower buds – if you want to avoid the unpleasant smell that bothers some indoor gardeners (albeit others, not so much), you might want to snip them off before they have the chance to bloom.

As mentioned, G. aurantiaca can sometimes become leggy, with long vines and spaced out foliage.

The only other maintenance item you’ll have to concern yourself with is repotting.

Plan to repot when plants start to become rootbound – or approximately every two years. Look for roots emerging from the drainage holes of pots, or specimens that need watering more often than you’re willing to accommodate.

When it’s time to repot, choose a container (with drainage holes!) that is just one size larger than the current pot.

Place some growing medium in the bottom of the new pot. Remove the specimen from its old container, loosen up the roots on the edges of the root ball, then place it in the new pot.

You may need to add or remove growing medium from the bottom of the pot to get the root ball situated at the right level – there should be about an inch of space between the top of the growing medium and the rim of the pot.

Managing Pests and Disease

Purple passion plant is susceptible to the same types of houseplant diseases and pests most of us are familiar with.

However, healthy specimens will be less likely to be targeted or succumb to these attacks. So providing your velvet plant with the sun, soil, and climatic conditions it needs to thrive will provide the foundations of a healthy plant.

Check new specimens for signs of pests or diseases on arrival.

Also, it’s a good idea to keep new acquisitions in “quarantine” for the first two to four weeks in your home. This will allow any pests that may be lurking in the growing medium time to re-emerge, giving you the opportunity to treat the problem and prevent spread to other members of your houseplant community.

For plants already integrated into your home, each time you water, check stems and undersides of leaves as well as the top of the foliage, looking out for pests like aphids, mealybugs, scale, spider mites, and whiteflies.

The main disease you will have to look out for is root rot.

If your houseplant is wilting despite its growing medium being damp, root rot may be the reason.

This disease is the result of soil staying too soggy, which gives rise to pathogenic organisms.

The best way to deal with this disease is through prevention – make sure G. aurantiaca is grown in a pot with drainage holes, that its growing medium is well-draining, and that you don’t overwater.

Best Uses for Purple Passion Plant

This ornamental foliage plant can be enjoyed in several ways as a houseplant – beyond just serving as a beloved point of visual fixation!

Thanks to its trailing growth habit, it’s a no-brainer choice for a hanging basket, but if you’d rather keep it on a tabletop, it can be pruned for a more compact appearance.

The purple haze of velvet plant’s foliage may not blend into just any home decorating scheme as would say, a peace lily or cast-iron plant.

Yet, these violet-hued houseplants will look at home in many quirkier settings, such as spaces with an eclectic, goth, or psychedelic vibe – or anywhere where a visual splash of soft, velvety texture is desired.

Looking for companions for your purple passion plant? Group it with African violets, prayer plants, or spiderwort for houseplant buddies that not only look great together, but also share similar care preferences.

And making G. aurantiaca even more desirable in the living space, it is considered nontoxic so it’s safe for homes with small kids and curious pets.

REDUCING THE footprint of our lawns has been a key environmental message for gardeners in recent years, since lawns lack biodiversity and involve huge amounts of pollution between fertilizers, herbicides, and the gas used in mowing. But what to cultivate instead? That is the subject of a nearly 15-year native lawn research project at Cornell Botanic Gardens in Ithaca, New York, with some interesting insights.

Todd Bittner is a plant ecologist who, with his Cornell Botanic Gardens colleagues, began a quarter-acre research experiment back then known as the native lawn demonstration area.

“Please do walk on these plants,” a sign on a pedestal tells visitors, explaining that it’s a test of a mix of low-growing natives as an alternative to traditional lawn. In a conversation, he shared what they’ve learned along the way.

Read along as you listen to the Oct. 23, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

cornell’s native lawn, with todd bittner

 

 

Margaret: Hi, Todd.  We caused a ruckus with the “New York Times” story we worked on together [laughter], and we’ll talk about that in a minute, but when you tell people you want to take away their lawn or suggest it, boy, oh boy, you get some upset people. We’ll talk about that.

But I wanted to just get a background a little bit, a short background, kind of what’s in your lawn and how did it begin? How did this begin? Because it’s very different from some of the other possibilities I’ve heard before.

Todd: Yes, it is different. We want to credit our horticulturalist here at Cornell Botanic Gardens, Krissy Boys, for coming up with the idea. But she was inspired in seeing some of these native species growing in these lightly disturbed areas in otherwise intact plant communities—state forest land where there were power lines going through, or the edges of lightly used roads, places that there weren’t herbicides and weekly mowing, old cemeteries, places like that—and found two species of Danthonia, Danthonia compressa and Danthonia spicata [below], commonly known as oat grasses, as being something that really loved those conditions.

That was the genesis of the idea with the native lawn, and from that, we added a few other forbs and some Carexes that we thought could tolerate some levels of trampling and some light mowing regimes, and that was the genesis of the native lawn that we developed 15 years ago.

Margaret: Right. So these Danthonia, this genus, which of course, Margaret over here had never even heard of [laughter] and now understands because I’m in the Hudson Valley of New York and so I thought, “Well, if it’s native at Cornell, it’s probably native for me.” And sure enough, of course, and I probably have it all over the place, but they’re bunch grasses.

There’s a number of different species around the country. There’s even one in California, Danthonia californica, that is recommended in some municipalities as an alternative to lawns. So it’s not just one species of this genus. And they’re naturally low-growing. As I said, they’re sort of bunch grasses as opposed to sort of spreading sideways, and they’re low. They stay somewhat low if you don’t mow them. How big would they get, a foot or more or what?

Todd: Yeah, they grow somewhere between 8 inches to maybe 16 inches or so for the grass blades, and then a little bit taller for the flowering culms. They’re cool-season grasses, so they like to come on early in the spring, and that’s kind of a prerequisite of having a green lawn in the spring, and then like to grow again in the fall like most cool-season grasses do. But they’re also very drought-tolerant, which is a key component of the native lawn, because we didn’t want to create something that had these significant environmental costs, like having to water it in order for it to persist.

So those functionally were some of the characteristics that we were looking for. And most of these grasses co-evolve with grazing regimes, bison and so forth, so they can actually be stimulated a bit to grow more with periodic mowing. But we prefer to keep the mowing heights a bit higher than your traditional lawns because we want the plants to thrive and flower and create wildlife habitat, which you really wouldn’t get if it was an inch or two crop, like most turf lawns are.

Margaret: Right, right, exactly. And so that is a little bit of an obstacle at first, and we heard in the “New York Times” story, in the comments section, we heard from some people, as I predicted, that want to know well, how the heck are they going to keep it mowed? Because even if it’s once or twice-a-year mowing, because their mower blade doesn’t go up to the recommended height that you suggested, which was 6 to 8 inches, they have to use a scythe or they have to use a weed whip or whatever.

But since it’s only once a year, it’s not that big a deal if we had to weed-whack our front lawn. I mean, not 20 acres, but you know what I mean? If it’s an average front yard type of area, that’s not that big a deal.

Todd: Yeah, the average homeowner definitely could use a scythe or electric weed whip, as you said. I like to suggest electric, as opposed to gas-power, given the carbon emissions that you get from gas-powered weed cutters.

But we are right now—after the post-establishment phase, which is about two years, two to three years—we’re probably putting in just about two to three hours a year on the maintenance as compared to the average US homeowner that suggested something like 70 to 100 hours for maintenance of your typical suburban lawn annually. It’s a lot of time that we put in and invest in these turfgrass lawns and doing it once a year or twice a year…

And honestly, the height is very adjustable. That’s our recommended height, but the average homeowner can tailor it to what their interests are. If there’s areas that they want to look a little bit more manicured, you could mow it more frequently, you can mow it a little bit shorter. Areas that you want to gradate into your flower gardens and back edges of your property, you could put in zero hours if you wanted to. We only suggest that because we’re expecting that people want to be able to walk on and recreate and enjoy their lawns or not have their dogs disappear as they are out in the back doing what dogs do [laughter].

Margaret: So you said before, you planted it with some other things. So Danthonia is the dominant genus. There’s two species of Danthonia, these oat grasses that you have made the dominant species in this native lawn, and you included other things.

And one of the other things that people who are thinking of making a shift in their traditional lawn—which is a monoculture typically, although sometimes it has clover in it or whatever, but pretty much monoculture—one of the things they have to adjust to is that it is going to evolve and not look the same every year forever and a day.

I think in the Times story, I used the word fluid, because with native plantings, they evolve, and some things fall away and don’t work and don’t survive after the first years, and some come in, they get seeded in or a bird brings them in or whatever [laughter]. So there’s change also. Hasn’t there been a change in the palette?

Todd: Yes, we’ve learned a lot as we’ve tracked it over the years. And our founding principles were based on how prairie restorations are done in the Midwest. And you need founder species that are going to get started and established very quickly and start to compete against the weeds. And then you have other species that might take longer to establish and you need to provide space for them as well. And you also need to tolerate the fact that there might be some non-native species; as long as they’re not detrimental, that is O.K. as well.

And we originally set a goal of having the total cover of the native lawn be 85 percent, and that’s about what we ended up with.

Margaret: So 85 percent native species, and the rest, as long as they weren’t harmful, could be non-native, is that what you’re saying?

Todd: Yeah. So just a bit of a clarification, if you look at like a square meter, the amount of plant material that you’re looking at, 85 percent of it is covered by native species and 15 percent of the cover of the area is non-native.

Margaret: So not the plant list being 85/15, but the actual square footage, the cover, the area of cover. Thank you.

Todd: Right, exactly. Because that 85 percent is the 85 percent that’s beneficial for our native insects and for carbon sequestration and biodiversity and all the rest. We have broken it down. I won’t get into that level of detail about what percentages by each of the different species.

But we started with somewhere around a dozen species of grasses and sedges and around a dozen native forbs. And by and large, about 80 percent of both continue to persist at our site. There’s a few that we lost.

Some of them, we understand, probably weren’t really good choices, like columbines that might not like to be mowed. And other species that were fairly abundant and well-established early on in this very low-growing, not highly competitive species group like bluets [Houstonia] and pussytoes [Antennaria], originally were fairly abundant and now have mostly dropped out, because the amount of plant cover and the amount of plant competition is so great that those low-growing species just don’t get enough light, they don’t get enough water, and so on, and have kind of dropped out.

So there is this fluidity to the mix. And to our delight, we realized that we had a lot of species that we hadn’t included that were native, that came in and grew spontaneously from adjoining natural area habitat that we have. Violets being one of them, several species of asters and goldenrods, wind-dispersed seeds that were able to find a new home and establish in the native lawn. [Below, Viola sororia in the native lawn mix.]

Margaret: Yeah. So around the country in recent years, more and more projects, both research projects and landscape designers trying it and just homeowners, gardeners trying it: Lots of people have been trying lots of different things to reduce their lawn at least, if not eliminate it completely.

And you’ve mentioned Carex, the sedges, a couple of times, times, and people transition sometimes to a meadow. Some people look for alternative groundcovers that could go instead of the lawn. Some people transition to other kinds of lawn grasses that are low-mow, even if they’re not native, that require not the feeding and the herbicides and the mowing all the time.

So there’s a lot of ways to go. But so you chose the Danthonia thanks to your colleague having this inspiration and it’s not a seed that I see in a box on the garden-center shelf yet [laughter], but you’re also participating in helping that someday become something that’s more widely available, yes?

Todd: Yes. So we’re very interested in creating a custom mix with the Danthonia species to make it as easy as possible for homeowners to be able to make this conversion. That’s something that requires the public’s interest—which I think given the response to the “New York Times” article, is definitely there—and commercial nurseries that are interested in working to make that happen. There’s an opportunity here for us to work with Cornell Cooperative Extension to provide tools and resources towards that end, so we’re looking to pursue that as well.

And just this year, we discovered a fairly robust population of Iand collected over 3 pounds of that seed. So we’re working to create founder plots to upsize the quantity that’s available. And we’re planning on what I call the native lawn 2.0—I’m happy to get new ideas, a better name for that—to incorporate this next research pilot for us, using some of the seed that we collected. And intentionally including some of the species that grew spontaneously and others that we feel that are in commercial production that will do well in a revised species list for our next native lawn demonstration project. So we’re kind of working to tackle it on a few different camps.

Margaret: Yeah. That’s great because that’s obviously important, and hopefully other efforts around the country… We should say that one of the two Danthonia species that you chose, D. spicata, it’s very, very widespread. It’s present in parts of states throughout most of the country. So it’s not only for Ithaca, New York, is all I’m trying to say.

And as I mentioned before, there are other species that are also particular to different areas of the country, like a California native species and so forth. So it bears some looking into, through native plant societies in different areas if people are listening from different places.

But I want to talk about the comments [laughter] on the “New York Times” story, and I’m sure the comments that you’ve overheard sometimes as people have, over the years, visited the native lawn demonstration area, the project at Cornell.

Because every time I write about alternative lawns, I get sort of a few subsets of comments. One is, “I’m going to get tick bites” if they don’t just have a close-mown lawn. The other is, “Where will I barbecue/where will my children play?” And then the third group is often, “My homeowner’s association won’t allow it.” Those are three loud clusters of voices that I often hear.

Now, it’s not my understanding that grass is a primary tick habitat anyway, but that said, do you get the same kinds of worries? Do you hear people saying, “What about this? What about that?”

Todd: Yeah, I was really surprised by the number of comments about restrictions with homeowners associations limiting that. It was quite eye-opening to see. And I recall that there was even a lawsuit in Maryland, and they ended up changing the law over that, because people were trying to native-scape their home.

So yeah, I was quite surprised by that. And I think that it is a really unfortunate situation. I encourage people to run for their homeowners association and change those bylaws if you are interested in native plants and biodiversity.

Margaret: And to talk to your neighbors because if you’re in a community of, I don’t know, 100 neighbors and 20 neighbors suddenly decide they want to do this, if you’re all friends and you know each other and you all want to do it, bring it up to the HOA and see. Do you know what I mean? A consensus can be very, very compelling. It’s O.K. to do that.

And we’re not saying to make everything look a big old mess. That’s not what we’re saying. We’re saying still within this contextual aesthetic of a lawn—not as short a lawn, not as manicured a lawn, but a place that looks like there’s some care been given to it.

Todd: Yep, I agree. And the response is about, “I won’t be able to do the activities that I like to do because it’s not turfgrass lawn.” Those are the same areas that just had pesticides applied to them and all these fertilizers and things like that, and so that’s a bit of my response to folks. I mean, it’s your own personal choice about how you want to landscape, but most people are doing it not just putting the environment at risk, but pesticides in their backyards where the family dog is and their kids are playing as well.

So think about the lawn more holistically and recognizing that you can not just have it all be cookie-cutter, all-turf lawn; keep some of it as lawn for those activities. But probably most of the square footage of people’s lawns isn’t being used all in the same exact way, so that could make an opportunity for people to think about it a bit differently.

Margaret: Right. Yeah, that’s what I’ve been really experimenting with here in my garden is really looking more closely and critically at myself, at which parts do I need to mow how often? And even if I can, in some of the areas, go to every three weeks, or four-week mowing, and it gets to ankle-high or something like that. Do you know what I mean? Because I have certain areas where you have to go from here to there, because it’s the transition. Or could I let some of it go and make a path, a wide path through it, but leave 70 percent of it?

And yes, I have some areas that I’m always going to mow because there’s an area right adjacent to a patio and it is perfect for if people came over and wanted to kind of mill around and whatever and be on the patio and on the lawn. But it’s a small space and I can give back the rest. Do you know what I mean?

Todd: Yes.

Margaret: So I think you’re making a very important point is to really take a critical eye to your overall landscape and say, “Hmm, could this be the barbecue area and we’re going to keep mowing it? And could this be where the kids are also going to play? And over here we’re going to let it be looser.”

Todd: Right. I mean, most people don’t use their front lawns.

Margaret: Right.

Todd: So if the homeowner’s association isn’t restricting you, that’s not where you’re barbecuing.

To the first topic, which was ticks, that one is a legitimate concern. The amount of tick-borne diseases, Lyme disease being chief among them, is significant. It’s increasing in our area, and many people are affected by it, pets as well. There are a lot of tick predators in healthy ecosystems, and the idea that the tick population is going to be worse in an area that has potentially more tick predators in it than a turf lawn, I think is kind of a false narrative to begin with.

We haven’t seen any difference in the native lawn than we have seen in other areas, and we have deer ticks, and we have deer ticks with Lyme disease here in Ithaca. And the idea that promoting biodiversity that includes additional tick predators, things that compete for habitat with rodents that carry Lyme disease as well, I think having a healthier ecosystem is among the ways of trying to reduce tick diseases.

And now I am just speaking more broadly because we haven’t actually studied that but it would be my expectation-

Margaret: But I did an interview with some ecologists at Bard College, and Cary Institute, which is sort of nearer to me, but where they have… They alerted me to a lot of different research reports that do look into that. And what you’re saying is the gist of what I have been told.

I just wanted to—speaking of insects and arthropods and the biodiversity of the non-plant type: Some of your entomologist colleagues at Cornell came and counted and assessed who was present in this native lawn area, and it was pretty amazing, the numbers. Give us some of the numbers by comparison to a mown-lawn area.

Todd: Sure. Well, we looked at families of insects because sometimes identifying them down to genus or species can be a bit challenging. So we roughly had four times the insect biodiversity in The native lawn than we had in traditional turf lawns for the insects that were above ground, if you will.

But it wasn’t just the numbers of insects; it was the ecological roles that they each play. So we had herbivores, we had pollinators, we had predators, we had parasitoids. We found this diverse insect community with species in all these different ecological niches, and we didn’t really see that in the turfgrass lawns. We saw a lot of herbivores that basically like to eat some of the plants that are these Eurasian turf species that we have.

So when we’re talking about biodiversity conservation, we can all do a bit more and give nature a helping hand, particularly thinking about the climate crisis that we’re facing where we’re losing these species. And so it’s not just pollinators that we’re wanting to conserve, but the entire breadth of the biodiversity that is there, and the native lawn is one of the ways that we can do that.

Margaret: Yes. Well, it’s very interesting, and as I said, I was really struck by the response. I was so glad that we got a resounding response, even the naysayers, because it’s important. This is an important conversation to raise. And even if all that happens is that people think, “Hm. Well, maybe I could mow less frequently and stop watering as much. And maybe I don’t need fertilizer, maybe it’s growing fine without.” Even incremental changes can make such a big difference environmentally, don’t you think?

Todd: Particularly when you think about how much turf lawn there is in the United States. It’s 2 percent of the United States covered, equivalent to the State of Wisconsin. So if they all did… And it is something that most of us can do. Most of us that are homeowners have lawns, and so there’s agency there for us to do something positive for the environment.

So yes, even if it is less pesticides, no pesticides, no fertilizer, get an electric mower that has green energy that’s powering it and reduce the CO2 emissions—any and all of those things is moving in the right direction.

Margaret: Yes. Well, Todd Bittner from Cornell Botanic Gardens, thank you so much for both helping me with the Times story and for helping me with this podcast today, and I hope I’ll talk to you again soon and hear more about what you all are up to up there.

more about lawn alternatives

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MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Oct. 23, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

Furnishing a new home is both exciting and overwhelming, whether it’s your first home or you’re a seasoned mover.

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Picking out the right furniture is more than just a style consideration – you also need to think about functionality and how to make your homework for you. With this in mind, it’s important to be practical, at least to some extent, when shopping for furniture for your place.

Before embarking on this adventure, here are some key things to keep in mind. 

Comfortable Seating

The first and most important tip is to never skimp out on comfortable seating – sofas in particular. These big-ticket items can be expensive, especially if you’re opting for the nicer choices, but investing in quality furniture, especially when it comes to seating, is always worth it.

A sofa is a piece of furniture that should, ideally, last you for years and years to come. With this in mind, do you want to be sitting on the same, hard, uncomfortable loveseat in three to five years? Probably not. If there’s any area where you’re going to splash the cash, it’s here (and your mattress). 

A Space for Overnight Guests

You might not think that you’ll be hosting often (and you might not), so what’s the point in having extra sleeping space, right? While this logic is fine, you also know you’ll be regretful when your parents, siblings, cousins, best friends, or other relatives come into town and have nowhere to stay. Nobody really wants to crash on anyone’s sofa, and accommodation is expensive. 

This is why creating a comfortable space for your guests is important and worth the investment, even if they only come around a few times a year. If you don’t have an extra bedroom to jazz up for your guests, then pull out sofas are your next best option, and can be extremely comfortable and space-efficient. 

A Dining Table

You also don’t want to be eating off your lap on the sofa for every meal – we can guarantee it. However, a traditional six-seater dining set isn’t necessary, especially if you live in a smaller space. You can incorporate a dining area into a small space with ease if you just use a little creativity and inspiration.

Consider the space you have and how you can incorporate a dining table. You might simply add some high barstools to a kitchen countertop, or deck out an entire room for a dining space. It’s entirely up to you, the size of your family, and how often you host people for lunches and dinners. 

Shelves and Storage

Finally, make sure to invest in a decent amount of storage solutions, shelves, chests of drawers, ottomans, etc. Big pieces like wardrobes and bookshelves should be a priority, and don’t forget to ensure you have some drawers to hide your junk. 

Once you have the basics in place, you can even DIY your kitchen storage or other areas in your home to keep the costs low and the effort minimal. 

 

When choosing garden furniture, you have plenty of options, including various styles, colors, and materials to choose from. Depending on your needs and preferences, you might go for a particular type of garden furniture every time you update it.

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Rattan has been used in garden furniture, mainly in chairs and loungers, for decades. However, its popularity has recently resurged. Rattan outdoor furniture is high-quality, looks great, and is durable in outdoor weather conditions.

Below, we have covered five reasons to choose the best rattan furniture for your patio.

1. Rattan is Lightweight

Because it’s so lightweight and airy, rattan garden furniture is easy to move around. You won’t struggle when rearranging your garden furniture or updating your patio area, even if you’re not very strong.

The lightweight nature of rattan allows you to design your garden according to your needs, and you can adjust your outdoor space depending on your upcoming events or occasions.

1. Rattan is Durable

Rattan is one of the most durable options when it comes to garden furniture materials. Unlike other materials, rattan is not prone to wear and tear. It doesn’t crack, scratch, or scuff easily.

Rattan is able to withstand a range of temperatures and weather conditions, making it ideal for the outdoors, particularly if your local area receives a range of weather conditions throughout the year.

1. Rattan Looks Great

Rattan looks great, and it’s likely that you’ll enjoy the way it looks in your garden, regardless of your personal design preferences. It appears warm and inviting, adding character and depth to your outdoor area.

Thanks to rattan’s unique texture and appearance, you can create a garden space that looks natural and put together. It’s perfect for those who want a neat and rustic finish to your garden furniture.

1. Rattan is Low-Maintenance

Because rattan garden furniture is durable and stylish, it’s very low maintenance. All it needs is a quick wipe with a cloth soaked in warm water to stay fresh and clean. No fancy sprays or nasty chemicals are required!

Unlike wood or metal garden furniture, you don’t need to worry about regular staining or rustproofing. Rattan requires minimal effort to look aesthetically pleasing and brand-new for years to come.

1. Rattan is an Eco-Friendly Material

Rattan is a sustainable choice for your garden furniture. It is produced from climbing palm plants, which are a renewable source of material and grow abundantly in various parts of the world, mostly in tropical areas.

Due to its renewable nature, rattan doesn’t contribute to climate change, deforestation, and the destruction of natural habitats for thousands of wildlife species, like some other garden furniture materials do. So, if you’re concerned about your impact on the environment and are searching for an eco-friendly garden furniture material, rattan should be your top choice!

When it comes to your home’s roof, timely and professional attention offered by local Baton Rouge roofing contractors is often the key to preventing costly damage and ensuring your family’s safety. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll navigate the intricate world of Baton Rouge roofing issues, recognizing the telltale signs that your roof may require professional assistance. We’ll also delve into the important considerations surrounding DIY versus professional roofing, and offer expert insights on how to choose the right Baton Rouge roofing company to safeguard your home.

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Roof Alarms: Decoding Early Signs of Roofing Troubles

Your roof is a silent guardian, protecting your home and family from the elements. But, just like any other part of your home, it can develop issues over time. Recognizing the early signs of roofing troubles with the help of roofing companies Baton Rouge Louisiana residents trust is crucial in preventing minor problems from turning into major, costly repairs. Here are the most common indicators that your reliable roofing Baton Rouge system need attention and it’s time to call your roofing contractors Baton Rouge.

1. Missing or Damaged Shingles

Shingles are your roof’s first line of defense. When they are missing or damaged, it leaves your roof vulnerable to water infiltration and structural damage. Check for shingles that are curling, cracked, or completely gone. Addressing this issue promptly can prevent further damage to the underlying structure.

2. Water Stains on Ceilings

Water stains on your interior ceilings or walls are a red flag indicating that water has breached your roofing system. This can result from damaged shingles, compromised flashing, or underlying issues that need immediate attention to prevent further harm. It’s essential to investigate the source of the leak and fix it promptly.

3. Sagging Roofline

A sagging roofline is a sign of structural problems, and it demands immediate action. It may be caused by deteriorating roof decking, weakened support structures, or issues with the foundation of your home. Ignoring a sagging roofline can put your home’s safety at risk.

4. Increased Energy Bills

If you’ve noticed a sudden spike in your energy bills, it could be a sign of roofing problems. An inadequately insulated or damaged roof can force your HVAC system to work harder to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature. This increased workload not only affects your comfort but also your energy expenses.

4. Moss and Algae Growth

The presence of moss or algae on your roof may indicate excess moisture and potential structural issues. These growths can trap moisture against the surface, leading to rot and the deterioration of your roofing materials. They can also damage shingles, making your roof more susceptible to leaks.

5. Clogged Gutters

Clogged gutters impede proper drainage, causing water to pool on your roof. This can lead to damage and leaks, compromising your roof’s integrity. Regularly cleaning your gutters is essential to ensure proper water flow.

By understanding these signs and being vigilant, Baton Rouge homeowners can maintain their roofs effectively. In case of issues, it’s advisable to seek professional assistance from Baton Rouge roofing contractors from dependable roofing companies Baton Rouge Louisiana who understand the unique challenges posed by the local climate and can provide tailored solutions. Early detection and timely repairs are your best defense against roofing troubles.

DIY vs. Professional Roofing: Weighing Your Options

Whenever you are facing roofing problems, you might be torn between taking matters into your own hands and hiring experienced professionals. This decision hinges on various factors, including your skill set, available time, and the nature of the roofing issue. Let’s dive deeper into both DIY roofing and professional roofing services to help you make an informed choice.

DIY Roofing: A Closer Look

Taking on a roofing project yourself can be a rewarding and cost-effective choice, but it’s not without its challenges:

• Cost-Effective: DIY roofing repairs can save you money in labor costs, as you’ll only need to invest in materials.
• Skill Requirement: Basic roofing skills are necessary to tackle DIY projects effectively. You must be comfortable working at heights, have knowledge of roofing materials, and be familiar with local building codes and safety regulations.
• Time-Consuming: DIY roofing projects can be time-intensive, especially if you’re working alone. They may span several weekends or even longer, depending on the complexity of the task.
• Risk: Roofing can be hazardous, and the risk of accidents is higher when working at heights. Safety measures and proper equipment are essential.

Professional Roofing Services: Benefits and Considerations

Hiring professional Baton Rouge roofing company, such as Red Stick Roofing of Louisiana with reliable roofing Baton Rouge contractors offers several advantages. They include:

• Expertise: Roofing professionals possess the knowledge and experience to address a wide range of roofing issues accurately and efficiently.
• Efficiency: Professionals can complete roofing projects quickly and effectively, reducing the risk of further damage. This can be particularly important if your roof is leaking or suffering from extensive damage.
• Safety Measures: Roofing is inherently dangerous, and professionals are equipped with the necessary safety gear and training to minimize risks.
• Warranty: Many professional roofing companies offer warranties on their workmanship and materials, providing peace of mind and ensuring that the quality of the work is maintained over time.
• Local Knowledge: Roofing professionals with experience in Baton Rouge understand the unique challenges posed by the local climate and weather conditions, making them better equipped to address your specific roofing needs.
• References and Examples: Reputable roofing companies can provide references and examples of their past work, allowing you to assess their quality and craftsmanship.

DIY or Professional Roofers: Making the Right Choice

Deciding between DIY roofing and professional roofing services is a critical step in addressing your roofing needs. It’s important to consider your own skill level, the complexity of the project, and the time you can dedicate to the task. While DIY can be cost-effective, professional services offer expertise, efficiency, and safety.

For Baton Rouge homeowners, particularly those unfamiliar with roofing projects, enlisting the assistance of a reliable roofing company Baton Rouge or experienced roofing contractors Baton Rouge is often the best choice. Their knowledge of local conditions and ability to provide warranties on their work make them a trustworthy option. Ultimately, your choice should align with your roofing project’s scope and your own level of comfort and expertise.

Securing Baton Rouge Homes One Roof at a Time: A Promise of Safety and Peace of Mind

Your home’s roof is more than a mere shield; it’s a vital investment in the safety and longevity of your residence. For Baton Rouge homeowners, recognizing the signs of roofing troubles, understanding the benefits of professional roofing services, and choosing the right Baton Rouge roofing company are critical steps in safeguarding your home.

By placing importance on early detection, professional expertise, and a knowledgeable choice of roofing services, you are not only preserving your home’s structural integrity but also ensuring peace of mind, even in the face of Baton Rouge’s unpredictable weather conditions. Trust in the professionals to secure your home, just as your roof secures your family.

Florida has lots of useful, edible, and medicinal species – especially in areas with mixed hardwood forests.

I conducted a property consultation earlier this week and was amazed yet again by how many good things grow in North/Central Florida.

Dahoon holly, which can be made into a mildly caffeinated tea:

American persimmon:

Beautyberry, which repels mosquitoes and makes a bland fruit which can be turned into an excellent jelly:

Wild lettuce, bitter and nutrient-rich:

Elderberries:

Melothria pendula, a delicious and tiny wild cucumber:

Native passionfruit (Passiflora incarnata) with edible and medicinal leaves which host multiple butterfly species, as well as delicious edible fruit:

Cutleaf groundcherry, with tasty sweet-tart edible fruits inside hanging lanterns:

Smilax, the delicious wild shoots that taste like asparagus:

Native bay, with leaves great for cooking (though not that pretty at this time of year):

Saw palmetto with edible and medicinal fruit:

Spanish needles (Bidens alba) which is a great nectar and pollen source for bees, as well as possessing highly nutritious edible leaves:

And red mulberry, a wonderful tall species which fruits in the spring:

If you buy a new property – or wish to know what’s going on with the land you already own – it’s well-worth hiring an expert plant guy to come and look around before you clear or burn. You never know what good species might already be there, and plant ID apps don’t quite give you the full picture.

There is food everywhere! Just ask Green Deane…

You can also search the archives here for more info on most of these plants.

And I recommend getting this book:

And this book:

Have a wonderful weekend.

We should finish up our greenhouse today.

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Today’s musical accompaniment:

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Isn’t every plant great in a group? Well, the answer is no. Some plants are too vigorous in their growth habits to share the stage, while others are better if put on a pedestal all their own (i.e. the focal point plants of the landscape). Today’s episode we talk about plants that are great in masses—that is to say—in groups of three or more. We have options for shade, choices for sun, and selections for those in-between exposures situations. We’ll also feature some great plants that we’ve seen grouped to perfection in gardens featured in Fine Gardening. And you don’t have to be a millionaire to group plants. Many of our suggestions are easily divided after just a year or two, providing you with multiple plants for the price of just one.

Expert guest: Daniel Robarts is a horticulturist at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay, Maine.

Danielle’s Plants

‘Kitten Around’ catmint (Nepeta faassenii ‘Kitten Around’, Zones 3-8)

‘All Gold’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’, Zones 5-9)

‘Kobold’ liatris (Liatris spicata ‘Kobold’, Zones 3-8)

Smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens and cvs., Zones 3-9)

 

Carol’s Plants

‘Galaxy Blue’ agapanthus (Agapanthus ‘Galaxy Blue’, Zones 6-10)

Feather Falls™ sedge (Carex ‘ET CRX01’, Zones 5-9)

Firefinch™ coneflower (Echinacea purpurea ‘G0052Y’, Zones 4-8)

Flowering tobacco (Nicotiana sylvestris, Zones 10-11)

 

Expert’s Plants

‘Millenium’ allium (Allium ‘Millenium’, Zones 5-8)

‘Brunette’ bugbane (Actaea simplex ‘Brunette’, Zones 3-8)

‘Starry Starry Night’ hibiscus (Hibiscus ‘Starry Starry Night’, Zones 4-9)

 

We’re visiting with Anita Drendel today.

I garden in Yorkville, Illinois. I have about 20 different garden areas, including six 3-foot tall raised garden beds for my vegetables.

Huge flower heads of ornamental onions (Allium sp.) show off in the back, with salmon Osteospermum (Zones 9–11 or as an annual) and purple Scaevola (Zones 10–11 or as an annual) in front.

Hardy hibiscus, aka rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus, Zone 5 – 9) is a dependable bloomer and is great for adding a punch of color to the midsummer garden.

A large-flowered clematis (Clematis hybrids, Zones 4–8) has been trained up the fence in the background, while a smaller blue clematis hybrid blooms in front. In the middle, an asparagus fern (Asparagus densiiflorus, Zones 9–11 or as an annual or houseplant) gives great texture from its dense foliage.

It looks like purple flowers are the theme in this area.

Look at this gorgeous Siberian iris (Iris hybrid, Zones 3–8)! Siberian irises are durable, very-easy-to-grow plants that thrive in a wide range of conditions, and newer breeding has really given them ever more beautiful and dramatic flowers.

A Virginia ctenucha moth stops by to check out the sunny blooms of a Coreopsis.

Hot colors only here, with Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia, annual) in the center covered with bright orange flowers. Mexican sunflower is a great long-blooming plant, and butterflies love the blooms.

Wow—a perfect, romantic, English-style rose. I bet this smells amazing in person!

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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