Category: Home & Garden

Corey asks why his banana won’t make fruit – or at least, many fruit:

Hey David – any idea why my bananas set one row, but the rest of the fruits are dying and not developing?

Here’s the picture of the banana bloom he sent with his question:

Reasons Why Your Banana isn’t Making (Much) Fruit

I responded:

Yes – this is normal. 

The first few rows are female blooms, which develop into bananas. The later blooms are all male and cannot turn into bananas. They just make pollen and then fall off.

You probably only got a few bananas for one of the following reasons.

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When gardening, do whatever works!

Caroline comments on my video about not using raised beds:

Thank you for raising contention. As with all lore in the organic growing milieu, any garden idea or principle is relative.

One should never be slavishly devoted to universal ways of doing things…. permies and their obligatory herb spirals being my pet piece of rigidity. Maybe because I never tried building and planting one.

I think the benefits of raised beds fall on a continuum of rainfall and weather. Where it’s really wet raised beds may work by keeping your roots out of the bog… and defrosting early (not my problem). In middle rainfall and temperature zones like Florida, and in sandy soil it could be very counter productive.

Where I live, with 6 months of drought that falls in the cracking heat of summer… planting in the ground kills my veggies even if I water my arms off because the classic veggies come from areas of the world with higher rainfall. I bust my back adding organics and doing cover crops, nothing held water in this deep sand and the compost just oxidized. So in my own conditions growing on deep deep sea sand, (it goes down 3 meters and then I gave up digging) with the summer drought, I eventually found creating an artificial system was the only thing that worked. Did microscopic study of my garden and my contained systems were the only ones with any Ingham style life in them !!!

A friend gave me some old kiddies bunk beds I used as frames. They are lined with used plastic drop sheets so that they are a kind of wicking bed, and they are filled with pure compost, vermicast and clay from building sites on the hill, and drip fed from the kitchen and shower outflow. BINGO… first time I ever could grow maize, broad beans, chard and kale. I also use these beds because they allow me to grow on my concrete driveway, which runs all the way through to the back and was ‘wasted’ space as we’ve only got a small rusty Tjorrie.

Finding more space to grow is unfortunately needed as the rest of my garden is wild… wild… full of a mix of native and meso-American plants which seem to do just fine without having a visible soil food web, and there is no space in the jungle for a carrot.

We’re on the same wavelength. This is the video she commented on:

It is quite amazing to see people slavishly defending various methods of gardening as if one cannot achieve eternal bliss and the Beatific Vision without them.

It’s rather like comfrey, which, though an excellent plant in the right climate, isn’t perfect everywhere. Here, we grow moringa as a replacement – though that doesn’t grow everywhere either!

As Paul comments:

I live in East Africa, on the Nile, on the Equator, and I swear I can not grow Moringa. I have tried everything, and it just will not grow for me. For me, comfrey generates a lot of organic material very quickly. I use it to feed the rabbits, in the compost pile, as mulch, as food for black soldier flies. I can not independently verify what people claim about it having 10 foot tap root or whether or not it is a nutrient accumulator or not, but it does generate organic matter quickly. Love your channel and I am learning a lot. Thanks!

That’s from my video Comfrey is Terrible!

Use what works.

Grow what grows.

Don’t get so completely attached to a system that you become a cultist. There are many ways to grow food, and many plants that will feed us.

Just get food in the ground and learn as you grow.

*          *          *

Today’s music:

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We’re in Yorkville, Illinois, visiting with Anita Drendel again. We saw some photos of her garden in the GPOD recently, and she’s back to share more of her favorites from the past few years.

I’m seeing a red theme here—bright red Mandevilla (Zones 10–11 or as an annual) in a red pot in the foreground, echoed by red flowers and foliage from shrubs in the distance.

What a great way to display a harvest of vegetables and herbs from the garden! They are as beautiful to look at as they are delicious and nutritious.

Here’s where some of those vegetables come from—a productive raised bed. This bed is full of cool-season vegetables like lettuce and cabbage, no doubt to be switched out for summer crops like tomatoes and peppers as the weather warms.

A statue helps to water the garden.

Red native columbines (Aquilegia canadensis, Zones 3–8) look beautiful with a deep reddish-brown bearded iris (Iris hybrid, Zones 3–8).

This weigela (Weigela florida, Zones 5–9), in peak spring bloom, is paired with the tall spires of lupine (Lupinus polyphyllus, Zones 3–7).

How’s this for a beautiful garden visitor? A scarlet tanager rests in an oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia, Zones 5–9) in May, just as the hydrangea is starting to leaf out.

Spring in the shade garden

Deep purple blooms from Clematis ‘The President’ (Zones 4–8) at the top, and another double-flowered clematis variety at the bottom

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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In the spring we grafted multiple good pear varieties onto Bradford pear trees:

Unfortunately, after we did, we got a hard frost which killed some of the grafts.

And then the cows got some of the others.

Yet, we still had great success on a few of the scions we grafted, getting over 8′ of growth since spring:

At least we’ll get something out of it! Those branches are likely to bloom this coming spring, thanks to the large root stock we grafted onto. As for the rest of the failed grafts, we may just have to try again.

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Watering Thanksgiving cactus correctly is key to maintaining your plant and keeping it healthy and looking beautiful.

One of the biggest struggles people have with Schlumbergera truncata is giving it the perfect amount of moisture, without overdoing it.

So in this post I’m going to tell you how to figure out exactly when it’s time to water your plant, and the best way to do it.

You’ll also learn how often to irrigate your Thanksgiving cactus, the symptoms of over and under watering, how to adjust the schedule as your plant’s needs change throughout the seasons or it begins to flower, and much more.

Thanksgiving Cactus Water Requirements

Thanksgiving (aka November) cactus plants require consistently moist soil. They don’t like to dry out completely or have soggy or overly wet roots.

In nature, they are epiphytes that attach themselves to trees or rocks, where they get much of their moisture from the air rather than the ground.

Also, despite the common name, Schlumbergera truncata is actually a type of succulent plant, so it can’t survive the harsh drought conditions like desert cacti can. This is definitely confusing for new gardeners.

Does Thanksgiving Cactus Need A Lot Of Water?

Although they don’t need a lot of water, Thanksgiving cacti don’t like to dry out completely either. Instead, it’s best to maintain evenly moist soil, and only let it dry slightly between drinks.

Improper watering can result in problems like root rot, wilting or soft, mushy leaves, and even leaf, segment, and bud drop.

Related Post: How To Care For A Thanksgiving Cactus Plant (Schlumbergera truncata)

Best Type Of Water For Schlumbergera truncata

The good news is that Thanksgiving cactus plants aren’t sensitive to the salts and chemicals in tap water.

But I still prefer (and recommend) using distilled or rainwater, which are purer and more natural for them.

Regardless of the type you choose to use, make sure it is tepid, or at room temperature, as very hot or cold water can harm your plant. And if you do use city tap water, let it sit out for 24 hours so the chlorine can evaporate.

When To Water Thanksgiving Cactus

To figure out when to water your plant, check the soil regularly. Wait until it feels dry about 1″ deep before you give it another drink.

I don’t recommend watering your Schlumbergera truncata on a set schedule or based on the days on a calendar, because you’ll probably end up giving it too much.

Always check how moist or dry the soil feels to know when it’s time to water again.

How Do You Know When Your Thanksgiving Cactus Needs Water?

The best way to tell when your November cactus needs water is to push your finger into the top inch of the soil. If it feels dry, then it’s time to give your plant some water.

A simpler method is to use a moisture gauge – a small and inexpensive hygrometer probe that displays a reading telling you how much water is in the soil. A reading of around 1-3 means that your Thanksgiving cactus needs water.

Should I Water My Thanksgiving Cactus While It’s Blooming?

You should definitely water your Schlumbergera truncata while it’s blooming. It needs consistent moisture during flowering, so never let it dry out completely – but be careful not to overdo it either.

Over or under watering your plant while it’s blooming may cause the buds and flowers to drop off.

But when you’re forcing it to rebloom, you should allow the soil to dry out more between drinks, as this tells the plant that it’s time to take a rest before flowering. Then resume your regular schedule once it sets buds.

Do You Water Thanksgiving Cactus After It Blooms?

You should slow down on watering your plant after it blooms. Once your November cactus is done flowering it will need a brief rest and less water through the winter.

During this time, allow the soil to dry out more before watering again, but don’t let it dry completely. You can resume your regular schedule in the spring.

How Often To Water Thanksgiving Cactus

How often you need to water your Thanksgiving cactus depends on several factors, including the size or your plant, the time of year, and the environment.

Generally speaking, you will need to irrigate more often during the spring and summer, especially if it is in a hot and sunny spot outdoors, than you will in the colder months.

You should also consider the size of the container. Check a large pot every month, and smaller ones on a weekly basis.

How Often To Water In Spring & Summer

A Thanksgiving cactus requires more water throughout the spring and summer months, because this is when they grow the most.

Plus, higher temperatures and the scorching sun will dry it out faster. So, if yours is outside, check on it weekly to see when it needs water, otherwise check on your indoor plant every 2 to 3 weeks.

Then start reducing the amount of water you give it towards the end of summer to prepare it for fall.

How Often To Water In Fall & Winter

The lower temperatures and darker days of fall and winter will tell your Schlumbergera truncata that it’s time to rest, so it won’t need as much water during this time.

Let it dry out more in the fall to encourage flowers in November, then keep the soil evenly moist while the plant is blooming. Allowing it to dry out too much can cause the buds and/or flowers to drop.

Also bear in mind that your heating system may dry out the air in your home, increasing your plant’s need for water. Be sure to check it weekly to see if it’s time to give it a drink.

How Much To Water Thanksgiving Cactus

Your November cactus needs consistent moisture, but not too much. The roots are susceptible to rot, so they should never be soggy.

But make sure the soil never dries out completely either, as this can cause the leaves to wilt, or buds and flowers to drop.

It’s impossible to tell you exactly how much to water your plant, because the amount they need depends on so many factors.

So, always let the top inch of soil dry out before giving your plant a drink. You can use your finger or a moisture gauge to help you get the timing right.

Overwatering Symptoms

Although Schlumbergera truncata likes consistent moisture, they won’t tolerate wet or saturated feet for very long.

Overwatering is their #1 killer, so it’s important to look out for the following signs that yours has had too much, and to cut back on the amount you’re giving your plant.

• Water pooling or wet, soggy soil
• Mushy, limp, or droopy leaves and branches
• Buds or flowers dropping
• Leaves and segments dropping
• Rotting stems and branches with a sour smell
• Soft, mushy roots
• Tiny gnats near the plant

Under Watering Symptoms

It’s less common for people to underwater their November cactus than to give them too much. But it’s still possible, so it’s important to know the signs.

Be careful not to confuse the symptoms of underwatering with those of overwatering – they can be very similar. Here are the signs it’s not getting enough.

• Light colored, dry soil
• Soil pulling away from the inside of the pot
• Limp or shriveling leaf segments
• Leaves look lighter in color
• Leaves turning brown
• Entire plant is drooping
• Buds or flowers dropping

Thanksgiving Cactus Watering Techniques

When it’s time to give your plant a drink, there are two different methods you can use – watering from either the top or the bottom.

I always recommend watering from the top, as soaking it up from the bottom almost always leads to root rot. Below I’ll talk about the details of both techniques, as well as the pros and cons.

Top Watering Thanksgiving Cactus

To water a Schlumbergera truncata from the top, pour it carefully over the soil until you see it briefly pooling on the surface and it starts flowing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.

Avoid pouring it over the leaves, as they may rot if water sits on them for too long.

Allow all of the excess to drain away completely, and empty the drip tray before replacing the pot so your plant is never soaking.

Bottom Watering Thanksgiving Cactus

To water from the bottom, you fill the drip tray and allow the plant to absorb it through the drainage holes.

I don’t recommend using this method on a regular basis, however, as it makes it very easy to overwater your plant. That’s because the soil can feel dry on top, but the roots may be saturated.

The only time I’d consider this method is if the soil has completely dried out and will not absorb water when you pour it over the surface.

In that case, soak it for only about 20 minutes, or once it starts absorbing moisture, then empty the drip tray and let the excess water drain completely.

FAQs

Here are the most common questions I get asked about watering Thanksgiving cactus. If you don’t see yours listed here, please add it to the comments section below.

How much water does a Thanksgiving cactus need?

Just how much water a Schlumbergera truncata needs depends on various factors, including its environment, size, location, and the time of year. The safest way to know for sure is to monitor the soil regularly, and only water when the top inch is dry.

Should Thanksgiving cactus be watered from the top or bottom?

I recommend watering your Thanksgiving cactus from the top rather than the bottom. This is the safest method, and it reduces the risk of soaking the roots, which may cause them to rot.

Do Thanksgiving cacti like to be misted?

Thanksgiving cacti do like to be misted if your indoor air is dry, as humidity is important for them to thrive. But be sure to mist lightly, because the leaves can rot or get spots on them if water sits on them for too long.

What does an overwatered Thanksgiving cactus look like?

An overwatered Thanksgiving cactus will look very droopy, with limp leaves and mushy roots or stems. You may also notice leaves and segments dropping, along with buds and flowers if it’s in bloom.

What is the correct way to water a Thanksgiving cactus?

The correct way to water a Thanksgiving cactus is to pour it slowly over the surface of the soil, allowing the excess to drain out the bottom of the pot. Empty the drip tray before returning the pot to avoid soaking the roots.

If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!

More About Watering Plants

Share your tips for watering Thanksgiving cactus in the comments section below.

Step By Step Instructions

Stapelia grandiflora

Plants feed us and provide us with fresh air to breathe. They beautify our landscapes, and brighten up our homes.

And when we grow houseplants like starfish flower – they provide us with a source of fascination and curiosity!

If you’re thinking of growing a starfish flower or have already introduced one into your home, congratulations!

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And welcome to the discerning club of folks who are willing to put up with stinky flowers in the name of gorgeous blooms.

We’re going to cover everything you’ll need to know to care for your succulent plant.

Here’s a sneak peek at what we’re going to discuss:

What Is Starfish Flower?

Starfish flower, Stapelia grandiflora, is a leafless succulent with upright or ascending stems that are about half an inch to one inch wide. Plants form clumps of stems that can have a 20 inch spread.

Individual stems can reach up to 12 inches tall and are pale green to reddish, depending on sun exposure.

The stems of this succulent have four angles, and these are punctuated with “tubercles,” small protuberances that make the plant look like a spined cactus – although these plants are not prickly in the least!

Produced from late summer to fall and born at the base of the plant, flower buds grow to look like inflated balloons, then open to reveal star shaped flowers, each with five long petals.

These blooms reach six inches wide and are a reddish-brown to purple color. The centers of the flowers are covered with long purple hairs while the petals are covered with long white hairs that are almost fur-like.

The surface of the flowers has a furrowed texture and pattern that looks similar to a cross section of raw meat.

This collection of traits is no accident – these flowers have evolved to lie around looking like dead animals to attract their preferred pollinators: flies.

And the flowers of this plant don’t only look appealing to flies, they also emit just the type of smell that would also convince a fly to go take a gander – a smell that gives these plants their nickname “carrion flowers.”

By the way, if you’re worried about attracting flies indoors, as long as you have screens on your windows, you shouldn’t expect them to invade your home.

As off-putting as this may sound, not everyone will notice the smell of the flowers.

However, the odor given off by these blooms does tend to get stronger the longer they are open.

As a solution to this problem, many houseplant gardeners keep these plants outside during the warm months, which is when blooms usually appear.

If flies oblige the plant, the flowers are pollinated and seed pods are produced, which are long and thin.

Seeds are slow to ripen, however, taking up to a year. At maturity, the seed pods split open, revealing their flossy contents.

Like the seeds of its relative, milkweed, the seeds of the starfish flower are attached to silky plumes, which enable them to be transported by the wind.

Cultivation and History

Classified botanically as Stapelia grandiflora, starfish flower is native to South Africa where it grows in dry shrubland or desert habitats.

This member of the dogbane family or Apocynaceae may somewhat resemble a cactus, and is sometimes called “starfish flower cactus” – but cactus it is not!

In fact, it’s more closely related to milkweed, frangipani, and oleander than it is to prickly pears. It’s also a close relative to other stars of the houseplant world such as hoyas and string of hearts.

This plant’s genus, Stapelia, contains about 43 species, many of which also go by the name “starfish flower.” Complicating things a bit, members of two other genera, Orbea and Huernia, also go by the name “starfish flower.”

Care for these other species can be different from one to the other since they originate in different habitats, so try to find out which species you have before assuming its needs are the same as S. grandiflora!

Together these succulent plants with their starfish-shaped flowers are known as “stapeliads,” a term which comes from the genus name Stapelia. They are also known as “African starfish flowers” and “carrion flowers,” the latter because of their tendency to look and smell like rotting flesh!

Though commonly cultivated as houseplants, S. grandiflora can also be grown outdoors year-round in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11.

Starfish Flower Propagation

Starfish flower cactus can be propagated from seeds or cuttings, the latter of which is the easiest – and fastest – method.

From Seed

Let’s look into propagating starfish flower from seed first.

Here’s what you’ll need for this project: seeds, cactus and succulent growing medium, two- to four-inch nursery pots or propagation trays, a spray bottle for watering, and plastic bags or humidity domes.

Make sure you’re using seeds that have fully ripened, but are also fairly fresh since fresh seeds have better germination rates.

Fill the nursery pots or trays with growing medium, leaving a half an inch to an inch of space between the top of the soil and the rim of the pot.

Place the seeds one inch apart, and cover lightly with soil. Water with a spray bottle, then cover each pot with a humidity dome or plastic bag to keep humidity high.

After germination, remove the pots from the heat mat. A few days after germination, remove the humidity domes.

Continue to water the seedlings with a spray bottle for at least the first month or so, keeping the growing medium slightly moist but not wet.

When seedlings are about two inches tall, watering can be reduced, and they can be repotted into their own four-inch pots.

Plants usually flower within two to three years when propagated from seed.

From Cuttings

Would you prefer to propagate starfish flower from cuttings? The best time for this project is in summer when conditions are warm.

Here’s what you’ll need: a parent plant to take cuttings from, cactus and succulent growing medium, pots, and sterilized scissors or plant snips.

Plan on taking at least three stem cuttings per small pot for a nicely filled out specimen. Take cuttings about an inch above the soil line, choosing stems that are four to five inches tall or more.

Allow cuttings to callus over in a shaded, dry location before planting – this may take up to two weeks.

While you wait for the succulent cuttings to callus, find some pots to use for propagating the cuttings.

Not sure which size pot to use?

Bundle up the cuttings close together and make sure that the callused ends are all at about the same level, then insert the ends of the cuttings into the hollowed space.

Press soil around the cuttings, and firm it down, so that the stems remain upright.

Place the pot in bright, indirect light for a week, but don’t water the cuttings until a week has passed.

After a week, start to water lightly when the growing medium dries out. Also, start to gradually transition the specimen to some direct sun exposure.

The cuttings should be well rooted within a month or so, at which point the plant can be cared for like a mature specimen. Plants can bloom within a year when propagated from cuttings.

Want more tips for this process? Learn more about propagating houseplants in our article!

How to Grow Starfish Flower

If you enjoy growing succulents because they are fairly easy to care for, starfish flower plants will not disappoint!

When grown indoors, the best possible light for starfish flower is direct sun exposure, so place your plant close to a south-facing window where it can soak up rays and where it will be more likely to produce its gorgeous flowers.

However, if conditions are extremely hot, offering this plant a little less direct sun for part of the day is best. At least four hours of direct sun per day is a good goal to aim for, while the rest of the plant’s daily light exposure should be bright, indirect light.

That goes for specimens grown outdoors as well, either all year in suitable USDA Hardiness Zones, or for the summer in other locations. They will thrive in full sun to part shade, but prefer part shade when conditions are hot.

When it comes to watering, allow the growing medium to dry out almost completely in between visits with the watering can, but check it more often when conditions are hot. If you aren’t sure, err on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering.

Since the growing medium won’t dry out as fast during the shorter, cooler days of winter, you won’t need to water as often then.

As for temperatures, these succulents enjoy the warmth provided by a sunny window, but as previously noted, when conditions heat up in midsummer, such as in homes without airconditioning, they prefer a partial day of indirect light.

You can do this by either moving the pot slightly farther from the window or by using a sheer, white curtain to filter the sunlight.

If you keep this succulent outdoors during the summer and live in a location with cold winters, be sure to bring it in before the mercury drops too much in autumn – these plants can be injured by temperatures below 40°F.

Although the smell from the plant’s blooms isn’t always noticeable, if yours is a bother, placing it outdoors during summer is a good solution.

Growing Tips

• Offer at least four hours of direct sun per day.
• Grow in a gritty potting mix for cacti and succulents with excellent drainage.
• Keep plants in temperatures above 40°F.

Maintenance

If you’re looking for a low maintenance houseplant, you’ve certainly got one with S. grandiflora, and it will produce flowers easily too!

Once the flowers have faded, feel free to snip them off with a pair of sterilized scissors or garden snips, but be careful not to cut off new blooms.

As these plants are accustomed to poor soils, fertilizer isn’t really required. However, if you’d like to encourage more vigorous growth, use a gentle fertilizer designed for cacti and succulents, such as Dr. Earth’s Succulence.

Dr. Earth Succulence

You’ll find Dr. Earth’s Succulence Cactus and Succulent Plant Food available for purchase in a 16-ounce pump bottle via Arbico Organics.

Fertilize once a month at most, from spring through summer.

As for repotting, this is another indoor gardening task you won’t have to worry about very often – every two years at most.

These plants prefer to be rootbound, and their stems can be allowed to spill over the edges of their pots. In fact, rather than repotting, you might prefer harvesting some cuttings to start a new houseplant.

When you do decide to repot, choose a fairly shallow container – no more than four or five inches is deep enough – and make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom.

If you find mealybugs on your plant, you can kill them by applying neem oil, a product that is nontoxic to humans and pets. Neem oil will get rid of your mealybug problem, and help take care of any fungal pathogens as well.

Emily’s Naturals Neem Oil is a product that comes with small packets of neem oil and castile soap as well as an empty spray bottle. When you’re ready to use it, mix a packet each of neem oil and castile soap in the spray bottle with water from your own faucet.

Emily’s Naturals Neem Oil

Emily’s Naturals Neem Oil comes in a kit ready to make 48 ounces of neem oil spray and is available for purchase via Walmart.

Be sure to test a small patch of stem first to check your plant’s reaction to the product.

After applying, keep your plant out of direct sun for a few days – oil on the plant tissue can cause burning in direct sun.

You may need to reapply the neem oil once a week for a few weeks until the pests are gone, but don’t give up – this treatment does work. Be sure to spray the base of the plant and the growing medium as well.

If you’re dealing with rotting stems, the best recourse may be to prune off any healthy stems and propagate them, giving the houseplant a second chance.

You can learn more about rotting in succulents with our article.

Best Uses of Starfish Flower

Starfish flower can cheer up a space by gracing a table top or window sill – or it can be situated in a wall planter or hanging planter.

In fact, stapeliads are among the best trailing cacti and succulents for hanging baskets!

They can also be combined with other types of fleshy plants in mixed succulent planters.

Or why not get whimsical and include these in a succulent fairy garden?

In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, they can be grown outdoors year-round as long as soil with excellent drainage is available.

These plants are considered to be xerophytes and are especially valued in rock gardens.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Evergreen succulent subshrub	Flower/Foliage Color:	Reddish brown to purple/green to reddish green
Native to:	South Africa	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	9-11	Tolerance:	Drought, poor soil
Bloom Time/Season:	Summer-fall	Soil Type:	Cactus and succulent growing medium
Exposure:	Direct sun to light shade	Soil pH:	6.5-7.5
Time to Maturity:	3 years, from seed, 1 year from cuttings	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	1/2-1 inch (cuttings), 1 inch (seeds)	Attracts:	Flies
Planting Depth:	Cover root ball (transplants), 2 inch (cuttings), barely covered (seeds)	Uses:	Hanging baskets, mixed succulent planters, succulent fairy gardens, wall planters
Height:	Up to 12 inches	Order:	Gentianales
Spread:	20 inches	Family:	Apocynaceae
Water Needs:	Low	Genus:	Stapelia
Common Pests and Diseases:	Mealybugs, stapeliad snout beetle, wooly aphids; Damping off, root rot, stem rot	Species:	Grandiflora

The Star of the Succulent Show

Simple to care for, fun to propagate, and featuring incredible blooms that need little coaxing, starfish flower makes a wonderful succulent houseplant provided you have plenty of sunshine to keep it happy.

Are you growing S. grandiflora or one of its carrion flower producing relatives? Feel free to share your experiences with our readers below in the comments section.

And let us know if you need any help with a plant problem or with identifying the species of your particular starfish flower – we’d be happy to help!

While you’re exploring the wonderful world of succulents, how about some further reading right here?

We often hear from Cherry Ong when she’s traveling to visit a marvelous public garden, but today she’s letting us in to see her home garden in Richmond, British Columbia. She says that she’s learned to love fall and is sharing the beauty of her shade garden with pictures she took in early October.

Cherry uses foliage to great effect. Here a warm Heuchera (Zones 5–9) is paired with the bright yellow foliage of Mexican orange (Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’, Zones 7–10). The yellow foliage effect is backed up by a big clump of Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aurea’, Zones 5–9).

How is THAT for foliage effect? A variegated skimmia (Skimmia japonica, Zones 7–9) looks amazing with its contrast of pink flower buds against the leaves.

A perfect foliage combination: The divided leaves of the hellebore (Helleborus hybrid, Zones 4–9) contrast beautifully in both texture and color with the broad, silver leaves of Siberian bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla, Zones 3–8).

This dark Japanese maple (Acer palmatum, Zones 5–9) looks all the darker with a sunny Japanese forest grass as a backdrop.

I love the dark, glossy foliage of this begonia (Begonia hybrid, hardiness varies by cultivar, usually grown as annuals)

Toad lily (Tricyrtis formosana, Zones 4–9) is a quiet presence in the shade garden until it explodes into bloom each fall.

Each toad lily flower is beautifully speckled with purple.

Cheerful pots full of foliage

A look out into the garden reveals a beautyberry (Callicarpa sp., Zones 5–9) loaded down with purple berries.

This beautyberry is living up to its name.

A final view of Cherry’s garden

How has fall looked in your garden? Send pictures to [email protected]! We’d love to see and share them.

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Starting plants from seed opens a world of possibilities to gardeners of all skill levels. Many vegetables, annual flowers, and even perennial plants can be started from seed using a few basic supplies and easy-to-master techniques. This can be an economical way to fill garden space and enjoy a much wider variety of plants than you could find in any nursery. In this course, horticulturist Niki Jabbour will share tips and tricks from her decades of starting seeds. After covering the basics, she will delve into more advanced topics such as timing and stratification. Participants will learn about which tools and supplies the pros recommend to make seed-starting easier, and how to set up a simple DIY lighting system. Build your gardening skills and enjoy the satisfying feeling of growing plants from scratch with this fun, fast-paced course.

You’ll get advice on:

• Which seeds to start indoors versus outdoors
• How to get the timing right
• The ins and outs of building your own seed-starting setup
• In-depth lighting instructions (including LED insights)
• Mixing custom seed-starting soil mixes
• Hardening off and planting out
• Troubleshooting techniques for when things go wrong

Niki Jabbour is the award-winning author of four books: The Year-Round Vegetable Gardener, Groundbreaking Food Gardens, Veggie Garden Remix, and Growing Under Cover. She is a rare two-time winner of the prestigious American Horticultural Society Book Award and a frequent lecturer for various horticultural institutions around North America. Niki is a contributor to numerous publications, including Fine Gardening. She was also the host and executive producer of a popular radio show, The Weekend Gardener, for 15 years and is now the garden expert on Canada’s CBC Radio. When she’s not writing, speaking, or broadcasting about food gardening, Niki is harvesting vegetables year-round from her 3,000-square-foot urban garden in Halifax, Nova Scotia.

Thanks to our friends James and Holly, our new greenhouse is basically done!

Here’s the interior:

And here’s the entire greenhouse from the side:

This greenhouse is from GreenhouseKits1.com, which gave us a great deal on this 24′ x 96′ greenhouse.

That means it’s 2,304 square feet, making it larger than most houses we’ve ever lived in. It will allow us to expand our nursery production and be ready for plant sales in the spring. We’ll be able to propagate lots of cassava, chaya, Tithonia diversifolia, mulberries, sweet potatoes and other good plants through the fall, winter and spring without worry of frost, giving us lots of stock that we can’t currently produce due to the occasional freezes that knock our more tender plants out for months of the year.

This project has been consuming a lot of our time lately. It’s a complicated and serious construction project requiring lots of drilling, screwing, stretching, flattening, hammering, and other building-related verbs. The kit is very solid and should take quite high winds without issue.

The next step is to figure out the irrigation for the interior, and to add the shade cloth. We also need to add water barrels to the inside for thermal mass.

I’ll post a video tour soon.

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Today’s musical interlude:

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Hibiscus plants are hardy and are often used in gardening. Their big flowers make gardens look better. But, just like with other plants, your rose needs certain things to grow well. Find out why the leaves on your hibiscus plant are going yellow and what you can do to fix.

What Are Hibiscus Plants?

The genus Hibiscus is made up of ornamental plants that are in the mallow family (Malvaceae). Hibiscus plants come in more than 200 different species, but the three most popular types are hardy hibiscus, rose of Sharon (common hibiscus), and tropical hibiscus.

Different kinds of hibiscus have flowers and leaves that are different colors and sizes, but in general, healthy hibiscus plants have green leaves and big, colorful flowers.

Tropical hibiscus often has problems with its leaves turning different colors. When hibiscus plants don’t get enough care or when their surroundings changes a lot, their leaves turn yellow.

Common Causes Of Yellow Hibiscus Leaves

1.Overwatering

One of the main reasons hibiscus leaves turn yellow is that they get too much water. Hibiscus trees do best in soil that drains well and shouldn’t stay wet for long periods of time. If they do that, the roots will die and the leaves might turn yellow.

2. Underwatering

If you don’t water your plants enough, the leaves can also turn yellow. Hibiscus plants need constant watering, especially when it’s hot and dry outside. Not giving the plant enough water can stress it out, which can make the leaves lose their green color.

3. Poor Soil Drainage

Both overwatering and underwatering problems can be made worse by dirt that doesn’t drain well. If the earth doesn’t drain well, water builds up around the roots, which turns the leaves yellow. To keep hibiscus healthy, it’s important to make sure the dirt drains well.

4. Nutrient Deficiency

For hibiscus plants to do well, they need certain nutrients. Yellow leaves can happen when plants don’t get enough of certain nutrients, like iron and magnesium. This can be fixed by fertilizing the plant properly.

5. Pests And Diseases

Hibiscus trees can get a lot of different pests and diseases. Bugs like aphids and whiteflies, as well as fungal diseases, can make the leaves turn yellow. To avoid serious damage, it’s important to check on things regularly and treat problems right away.

How To Prevent Yellowing Leaves

1. Proper Watering

Make sure you water your hibiscus plants at the same time every day to avoid overwatering or underwatering them. Deeply water the earth, but let it dry out between times.

2. Soil Quality

Adding organic matter to the dirt will help it drain better. This helps make the right conditions for the roots of hibiscus plants.

3. Fertilization

Make sure your hibiscus plants get the nutrients they need by giving them a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Make sure to take care of any nutrient deficits right away.

4. Pest And Disease Management

Check your plants often for bugs and diseases. If you see any problems with your hibiscus, treat them the right way to keep them healthy.

Conclusion

Gardeners often worry about hibiscus leaves turning yellow, but with the right care and attention, you can bring your plants back to their full beauty. You can enjoy the lush, green leaves and bright blooms that hibiscus plants are known for by taking care of issues like feeding, soil quality, nutrition, and pest control.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. How Often Should I Water My Hibiscus Plants?

When the top inch of dirt is dry is when you should water hibiscus. This usually means watering every two to three days, but it can change based on the weather and the state of the land.

2. Can I Use Homemade Remedies To Treat Hibiscus Pests?

Some home remedies may work, but for best results, it’s usually best to use purchased pesticides or talk to a gardening professional.

3. Are Yellow Leaves A Sign Of Old Age In Hibiscus Plants?

It’s not always true that yellow leaves mean something is old. They often mean that there are deeper problems, like too much water, not enough nutrients, or bugs.

4. Can I Use Any Fertilizer For My Hibiscus Plants?

To make sure your hibiscus gets the right nutrients, use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer made for blooming plants.

5. How Can I Improve Soil Drainage For My Hibiscus Plants?

Adding organic matter to the soil, like compost or peat moss, and making sure the growing area is slightly raised can help the soil drain better.

There are times when having pets and loving houseplants at the same time can be hard. You need to make sure that your dogs and plants can get along. Some plants are poisonous. Most dogs are known to bite our plants every once in a while, which can be a problem. How about the well-known Swiss cheese plant? Is Monstera bad for cats? What about pets like dogs and cats?

Read on to find out everything you need to know about how dangerous Monstera is.

Why Are Monsteras Dangerous For Dogs?

Monstera plants are safe for dogs, which is good news. If your dog eats it, it will irritate his mouth, throat, and stomach walls, which could make him vomit and drool. There is no danger to your dog’s life unless it has eaten a lot of the plant.

Is Monstera Toxic To Cats And Dogs?

This question doesn’t really have a clear “yes or no” answer.

The ASPCA says that the genus Monstera, which is a famous aroid houseplant, is poisonous. Some might say that this isn’t really the right word, though. All of this genus’s parts contain calcium oxalate crystals, which are known to be poisonous. We’ll talk more about what these crystals are below.

When eaten, calcium oxalate crystals are very irritating, especially in the lips and stomach. It’s not likely that your cat will have a good time if it bites into your Monstera, whether it’s a Monstera deliciosa, someone else’s species, or this one.

For the most part, your cat or dog should be fine after biting into your Monstera. They might show signs of pain and soreness, though. If a rare growth reaction happens, that’s the only real risk. There is no poison in its body that is slowly shutting it down; it’s just a bad feeling in its throat and tongue.

What Are Calcium Oxalate Crystals?

Monstera plants are dangerous because they have calcium oxalate crystals in their sap. These very small particles are sharp and jagged like a group of needles. They are made up of oxalate and calcium.

They can make tiny cuts in the mouth, throat, and digestive system that hurt, or they can get stuck in those tissues and become lodged there. It’s also good to wear gloves when you cut your monstera because these crystals can be rough on your skin.

Crystals on the monstera plant are good for it because they keep animals from eating it. Fruit, which is safe to eat when it’s ready, is the only part of the plant that should be eaten. This lets the plant’s seeds spread to more places through animals and their gut systems.

Symptoms Of Toxicity In Dogs

The arum family includes monstera. Other plants in this family are also harmful to dogs, like elephant’s ear, calla flower, and dumb cane. Monstera can make dogs drool, vomit, have diarrhea, and have stomach pain if they eat it. Monstera poisoning can cause seizures and breathing problems in the worst cases.

So, Not Toxic. But Is It Dangerous?

The real question is whether Monstera is dangerous or not, not whether you call it “toxic” or “irritating.” While we would try to keep my pet away from this houseplant, there’s no real reason to worry if it does get its paws on it.

After the first bite, it probably won’t go for another one because it hurts too much, so this plant isn’t really dangerous.

Aside from those things, Monstera leaves aren’t really the stringy, dangly kind that cats like, so it’s not likely that your cat will try to eat them in the first place. Most likely, it will choose your spider plant or string of hearts. On the other hand, dogs are always a risk.

Are Monstera Plants Toxic To Humans?

Some monstera plants can be slightly harmful to kids, just like they can be to your pets. The crystals can hurt your baby’s throat, mouth, and gums if they eat them. In fact, these pebbles are so sharp that people can’t swallow or eat with ease. Little kids and babies are very sensitive, so it’s best to keep them away from your monstera plant in case it gives them the creeps!

Other Toxic Houseplants

Monsteras might not be very dangerous for your kids and pets, but some trees are much worse. Here are some more flowers that are bad for you to know about:

• Chrysanthemum
• English Ivy
• Dragon tree
• Alocasia
• Philodendron
• Peace lily
• Spider plant
• Snake plant
• Pothos
• Rubber tree

There are ways to keep flowers out of the mouths of most pets, but they need to be taught first. Just like monsteras, most of these trees don’t bother me too much. Still, it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: If My Dog Bites My Monstera Plant, Will The Plant Be Okay?

A: Once your pet friend is safe, you may also be concerned about the health of the plant that was bitten. Monstera plants are tough, so they should be fine. However, you should cut off the damaged part because it won’t heal itself and may make sap that is irritating to the skin. It would also be best to put it somewhere your dog can’t get to it.

Q: Can Monstera Cause Bladder Stones?

A: Monstera plants have calcium oxalate crystals in them, and calcium oxalate crystals can also be found in kidney or bladder stones in dogs, so it makes sense that the two might be linked. The calcium oxalate crystals that make up kidney stones, on the other hand, are not eaten; they are made when calcium and oxalate combine.

If a dog has bladder stones, their vet may tell them to avoid foods that are high in calcium and oxalate, like spinach, nuts, and green beans. Also, extra care will need to be taken to make sure the dog stays properly hydrated.

Q: What Other Names Are There For A Monstera Plant?

A: The monstera plant comes in many different types, which are called cheese plant, Swiss cheese plant, storm plant, delicious monster, Mexican breadfruit, windowleaf, and fruit salad plant.

Q: Is A Monstera Deliciosa The Same Plant As A Split-Leaf Philodendron?

A: No. These two plants are not the same species or genus, even though they look alike when they are young. However, split leaf philodendrons and monstera both have calcium oxalate crystals that don’t dissolve in water. If dogs eat either plant, they will be just as ill.

Many people have kalanchoe plants, which are very pretty and have hundreds of flowers that can be yellow, orange, pink, or red. This plant is in a group of plants that have heart-harming chemicals called bufadienolides. But when dogs and cats eat it, it usually makes their stomachs upset or irritated. If a big enough amount is taken in, there may still be a chance of more serious symptoms like changes in heart rate and beat, weakness, and dying.

Common Signs To Watch For:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Abnormal heart rhythm (rare)

It’s important to know that cats can get sick from kalanchoe. This popular houseplant has poisons in it that can make your cat sick if it eats it. As long as you don’t eat it, it doesn’t hurt you, and it doesn’t put out any dangerous germs.

What Is Kalanchoe?

Plants in the genus Kalanchoe have flowers. They are in the family Crassulaceae and are native to Madagascar and warm Africa. Kalanchoes have bright flowers and leaves that are very succulent. Kalanchoe is not exactly poisonous to cats, but if they eat a lot of it, it can make their stomachs upset.

People like to grow this beautiful plant outside as well as inside. It may be better for you to keep your cat inside if it doesn’t go outside. This will also keep your cat safe. Kalanchoe comes in many colors, such as pink, red, yellow, and white, and is usually grown from stem cuttings.

You may also hear this plant called “Mother-in-Law’s Tongue” or “Devil’s Backbone” because its leaves are so sharp. If your cat likes to nibble on plants, you should keep kalanchoe out of its reach. Cats that have never eaten vegetables before may choose to do so at any time. In short, this plant can hurt your cat.

Cats like to chew on veggies, so give her cat grass. It will keep her away from your other plants.

What Is Kalanchoe Poisoning?

If cats eat the Kalanchoe plant, the toxins in it can make their stomachs upset. Kalanchoe poisoning in cats can show up as drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea. Kalanchoe poisoning can sometimes be so bad that the liver stops working. For instant assistance if you think your cat has eaten Kalanchoe, please call your vet.

If you love plants and have cats, it might help to keep a list of plants that are bad for cats somewhere you can see it often. That way, you won’t bring these dangerous plants into your home where your cats live.

Symptoms Of Kalanchoe Poisoning

You should know what to do if you think your cat has been poisoned so you can get rid of the poison. For more help, you can call the cat poison helpline at any time, day or night.

Some symptoms of kalanchoe poisoning in cats include:

• Abdominal pain
• Gastrointestinal irritation
• Drooling
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Lethargy
• Abnormal heart rhythm

In the worst situations, your cat may also:

• Liver failure
• Kidney failure
• Heart arrhythmia
• Tremors

Your vet will know what symptoms to look for if a pet has been poisoned by a plant. Always keep in mind that cats are very good at hiding sickness, so your pet might not show any signs at all unless it’s really bad.

What To Do If Your Cat Ingests Kalanchoe

If your cat has eaten Kalanchoe, you should take it to the vet right away. If Kalanchoe poisoning gets really bad, it can cause shakes, seizures, and irregular heartbeats. You can call your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if you think your cat has eaten Kalanchoe.

Don’t try to “wait it out” or fix the problem yourself at home. You shouldn’t take any risks when it comes to poisonings. Also, cats can quickly become thirsty, and if you try to keep them from doing so, they can become seriously thirsty.

If you find out that your cat ate this plant, try to keep them calm and quiet so they don’t get sick again. Second, make sure they don’t still have any plant parts in their mouth. You could also try giving them a few small sips of water to make them feel better.

Treatment For Kalanchoe Poisoning

Treatment will depend on how bad the poisoning is, but it might include giving fluids through an IV, giving medicine to stop puking, and keeping a close eye on the person. The treatment may be different for each cat, depending on how much was eaten and how the cat reacts.

Conclusion

You can see that kalanchoe can hurt your cats. Even though it’s not as clearly marked as some other plants as being dangerous, you shouldn’t keep it inside if you have cats. You can completely escape this by not bringing it into your home at all.

Plants that could be poisonous should not be in your home unless they are caged or in another place where you know your cats can’t get to them. An accident that kills someone can happen any time you’re not paying attention or at home.

The common name for the Fiddle Leaf Fig is Ficus lyrata. It is a type of plant in the Moraceae family. A lot of individuals like this houseplant because its leaves are beautiful and different. The Fiddle Leaf Fig is a very well-known houseplant, but cat owners should be careful around it. Fiddle Leaf Fig is poisonous to cats and can cause serious irritation if they chew on it or eat it. However, cats rarely die from eating it.

Our objective is to help you keep your cats safe. That’s why we looked into the Fiddle Leaf Fig. We also made a list of other plants that are bad for cats and plants that are safe for them.

Are Fiddle Leaf Fig Poisonous To Cats And Dogs?

In short, yes, cats and dogs can’t eat any part of the plant. Have cats or dogs that might try to eat the leaves of your ficus tree? It might not be the best houseplant for them!

The stems and leaves of the fiddle leaf fig have a thick white sap that is high in calcium oxalate crystals. If you swallow these crystals, the sharp edges can hurt your mouth, throat, stomach, and intestines. If they touch your skin and aren’t washed off right away, they can irritate or even blister it.

There are some things you should do to make sure your pets don’t eat your fiddle leaf fig (even small pieces) or get the sap on their skin or eyes.

How Do Fiddle Leaf Figs Affect Cats And Dogs?

If your cat or dog bites your fiddle and gets the sap on its skin, what should you do?

That calcium oxalate will hurt and scratch the soft tissues in their mouth, throat, and stomach as soon as they take a bite. It is not going to be fun!

This could happen if your cat or dog nibbles on your fiddle: drooling; swelling of the mouth, tongue, or lips; vomiting; loss of hunger; too much or too little urination or thirst; or diarrhea. If your pet ate a lot of your fiddle, you could have trouble breathing, high blood pressure, or feel tired or weak.

If a cat vomits, it could be a sign that it is dehydrated or having stomach problems. Cats may drink a lot of water or almost none at all.

Most likely, dogs will also paw at their mouths and show signs of being very thirsty or not thirsty at all.

How bad the reaction is generally depends on how much was eaten. If your pet only took a small taste, the symptoms may not be very bad. On the other hand, if your pet ate a whole leaf, the symptoms may be very bad. If the sap got on your pet’s skin or in its eyes, it might have heat, a rash, blisters, and paw or scratch at its skin or eyes.

If any of these things happen to your cat or dog and you find teeth or bite marks on your fiddle, you should call your vet right away.

Identify Symptoms In Cats And Dogs

Some things that could mean that someone has messed with your fiddle are tooth marks, bite marks, missing leaves, and so on. Check on your pet and keep a close eye on them.

Get in touch with your vet right away if they start pawing at their mouth or skin, biting or hurting themselves too much, stopping to eat, throwing up, or having diarrhea. Look for bumps or blisters on their skin as well, which could mean that the sap got on them.

Take a look at your fiddle and try to figure out how much your pet has eaten and how long ago it happened. This will help your vet figure out how bad your pet’s state is and what to do next. Before you do anything to help your pet, you should talk to your vet. You don’t want to hurt your pet more than help it.

Most likely, your doctor will wash the sap out of your pet’s mouth and skin. If a lot of it was eaten, they may also do tests to see if any organs were hurt.

Are Fiddle Leaf Figs Toxic To Other Pets?

You can’t keep birds, rabbits, rats, hamsters, guinea pigs, ferrets, or any other pet animal near a fiddle. If you can help it, keep your dogs away from your fiddles or choose a different plant.

Most pets will show pretty much the same signs of being poisoned by fiddle leaf figs. Keep an eye out for signs of skin discomfort, such as biting or scratching the skin or eyes a lot. Vomiting, diarrhea, and big changes in what you eat and drink are also always signs that something is wrong.

Which Plants Are Toxic?

Azealia, mistletoe, hydrangea, a number of types of lily, oleander, and rhododendron are just a few of the plants that are very deadly.

The fiddle leaf philodendron, also known as the horsehead philodendron (philodendron bipennifolium), is deadly. Because of its name, it is sometimes mistaken for the fiddle leaf fig (ficus lyrata).

Do your research before choosing your indoor plants, especially if you have cats, dogs, or kids who like to explore. A lot of popular houseplants are actually poisonous.

There are many beautiful plants that are safe for pets and kids to eat, so you wouldn’t have to think about them doing that.

What To Do If Your Cat Eats a Fiddle Leaf Fig

Because the sap can hurt your skin, wash any part of your body that comes in contact with it. To get rid of the sap, you can use cat shampoo.

You can give your cat water to rinse their mouth out if they ate some of the plant. Most of the time, we tell people not to give milk to cats because they can’t handle lactose. But in this case, a small bit of milk can help you clean out your cat’s mouth.

Fiddle Leaf Figs shouldn’t always be taken to the vet’s office if they are eaten. But make sure you always talk to your vet before giving your pet any special care or directions.

Usually, all you need to do is keep an eye on your cat’s signs for a few days. However, this will depend on how much it ate and how healthy it is right now. There are times when your vet may want to give your cat medicine to lessen the bad effects of the toxins in its body.

It’s also important to remember that the Fiddle Leaf Fig has a name that sounds a lot like another plant. The Philodendron bipennifolium plant is also known as the Fiddle Leaf Philodendron.

Cats can also get sick from the Fiddle Leaf Philodendron. It also has calcium oxalate crystals that don’t dissolve and can do a lot of damage to your cat’s digestive system as they move through the body.

To sum up, fiddle-leaf figs (Ficus lyrata) are a type of fig tree that grows naturally in warm areas. A lot of people like them as pets because they can clean the air of formaldehyde.

Fiddle-leaf figs are safe for people to eat, but they can be bad for dogs if they eat them. Vomiting, diarrhea, excessive drooling, oral pain, and stomach pain are all signs and symptoms of ingestion.

It is important to get your pet to the vet right away if it eats a fiddle-leaf fig. If you use these tips, your plants will stay healthy and beautiful and your pets will be safe.