Category: Home & Garden

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When it comes to our homes, we want nothing less than the best. We invest time, effort, and resources to make them comfortable, safe, and inviting. Often, however, we overlook essential aspects that can significantly elevate our living experience. Two of these are interior basement waterproofing mississauga and install door for my house north york.

In this article, we’ll explore the benefits of basement waterproofing and new door installation, both of which can have a positive impact on your living space.

Understanding interior basement waterproofing

Let’s begin with the often-neglected basement. While it might be a space for storage or the occasional laundry, cellars hold the key to a home’s structural integrity. In places where weather patterns can be unpredictable, such as Mississauga, ensuring your basement stays dry is crucial.

Interior basement waterproofing mississauga is about more than just preventing leaks. Waterproofing needs to safeguard your foundation from moisture that can weaken the very core of your home.

The basement waterproofing process involves sealing cracks, applying waterproof coatings, and creating an effective drainage system. Doing so creates a shield against dampness that could lead to mould, mildew, and costly structural damage.

The value of a secure entryway

As homeowners, we often focus on interior design and comfort, but aspects that contribute significantly to our home’s value and security are just as important. 

In this section, we’ll explore the benefits of having a secure entryway, particularly in areas like North York, where homes must withstand urban challenges and unpredictable weather patterns. Let’s dive into the unassuming hero that is your front door:

• A high-quality entry door is the first defence against potential intruders, deterring unauthorised access and ensuring your family’s safety.
• Well-installed doors contribute to better insulation, keeping your home warm in winter and cool in summer, and reducing energy costs.
• A stylish and well-maintained entry door adds to your home’s aesthetic appeal, leaving a positive impression on visitors and potential buyers.
• A secure and visually appealing entryway enhances the overall value of your property, making it more attractive to prospective buyers.
• A quality door reduces outdoor noise infiltration, creating a quieter and more peaceful indoor environment.
• Especially relevant in regions like North York, a durable door can withstand harsh weather conditions, maintaining its integrity over time.
• Entry doors come in various designs, allowing you to choose one that reflects your taste and complements your home’s architecture.
• Investing in a well-made entry door means it will last longer, requiring fewer repairs or replacements, ultimately saving you money in the long run.

Beyond its practical function, a secure entryway to your property boasts multiple layers of value. From safeguarding your loved ones to enhancing your home’s aesthetics, it’s definitely an area that’s worth the investment.

The synergy of interior basement waterproofing and door installation

When redefining your home’s value, two seemingly distinct enhancements – interior basement waterproofing and door installation – combine to create a synergy beyond the sum of its parts. Let’s explore how these two vital components, especially in regions like Mississauga and North York, can work harmoniously to elevate your living experience and add lasting value to your property.

Defending against moisture in Mississauga

In a place like Mississauga, where weather can be unpredictable, the importance of interior basement waterproofing cannot be overstated. 

The last thing you want is moisture seeping into your home’s foundation, causing damage that can ripple through every aspect of your living space. By investing in proper waterproofing, you’re taking a proactive stance against potential issues like mould, structural decay, and compromised indoor air quality.

Seamless door installation in North York

Meanwhile, in North York, where urban living is coupled with the need for a secure home environment, install door for my house north york steps into the spotlight. 

Your entry door is a physical barrier between your home and the bustling world outside. Choosing a high-quality door and ensuring its proper installation enhances security and addresses energy efficiency, noise reduction, and kerb appeal.

Combining comfort and protection

On the one hand, you have a basement that remains dry and impervious to the outside elements, thanks to interior basement waterproofing mississauga. 

On the other hand, your newly installed entry door guards against both physical intrusions and energy wastage.

A positive impact on home value

As you might already realise, these improvements go beyond the immediate benefits they offer. They add significant value to your home.

When potential buyers or appraisers see a home with a well-maintained basement and a top-notch entry door, they perceive it as a house that’s been cared for, a place built to last. This can significantly influence how the value of your home is perceived, particularly in competitive real estate markets like Mississauga and North York.

Safeguarding your home’s foundation and crafting an appealing and secure entry will ultimately contribute to your property’s long-term value. In the competitive real estate markets of Mississauga and North York, these enhancements can decide what sets your home apart. They give your home an edge, not only in terms of practicality, but also in terms of aesthetic appeal and resale potential.

The final word

Never underestimate the impact of interior basement waterproofing and door installation. These two upgrades can redefine your home’s value, offering long-term benefits beyond the surface. From protecting your property’s foundation to enhancing security and aesthetics, these home improvement projects are an investment that pays off in more ways than one.

We’re back today in Phoenixville, Pennsylvania, where Chris has, over the past few years, transformed his mostly empty yard into a lush, beautiful garden.

Chris poses with his huge stand of sunflowers (Helianthus annuus, annual). These are so easy to grow, so beautiful, and so great for local wildlife.

There aren’t just plants in the garden—the deck is loaded down with containers as well! It looks like most of these will come inside for the winter and live as houseplants.

Beautiful marigolds (Tagetes patula, annual) line the walkway. It’s hard to beat marigolds for easy color all summer long. They have no serious pests or diseases, are a North American native, are easy to grow from seed, and are just beautiful.

Farther down the walk we see delicate clouds of purple petunias and a towering Datura (annual) with large, white, trumpet-shaped blooms.

I love the way the tall rose bush and other plants make this path feel like a magical tunnel.

A birdbath is tucked in amid the abundant flowers. Birdbaths are enjoyed by birds, of course, but many other animals will drink out of them as well, including bees and other pollinators.

A study in pink, with a huge hardy hibiscus taking center stage

A cute little salamander checks out the garden. Amphibians such as salamanders and frogs are often very sensitive to pesticides, as they easily absorb chemicals through their skin. Seeing them thriving in a garden is a good sign that it is a safe place for native wildlife.

Another look at the marigolds—such a great plant that asks for so little and gives so many flowers in return!

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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As promised in the full title of this latest book from Jennifer Jewell, What We Sow: On the Personal, Ecological, and Cultural Significance of Seeds is a conversational compendium of all things seed-related. For listeners of Jewell’s authoritative podcast Cultivating Place, a lively survey of current garden thinking mixed with personal insight, the atmosphere will be comfortingly familiar. For less experienced gardeners who may be happy to trade the effort and time of sowing seeds for the extra cost of buying pre-germinated plants, you may learn that what you think is helping the ecology of your garden could be doing more harm than good. For all gardeners, the world contained within a seed is definitely worth exploring.

Part of the point of sowing seeds is independence, freedom from the lack of choice at garden centers and an opportunity to step away from corporate dominance. Seeds are best gathered from small—and ideally local—sources that sell organic or responsibly-raised, open-pollinated plants that will thrive where you live. With pots of exquisite perennials, even when bought from a bijou Brooklyn plant store, this is rare: they have been raised to look good until they meet the alien conditions of your garden, at which point they go into shock.

That’s not all—plants from unknown sources are more likely to have been treated with a systemic insecticide, which infects every part of the plant, killing beneficial insects as well as “pests.” In the corporate seed business, neonicotinoids are also applied, following a plant at every stage of its life and affecting the water and soil around the plant it produces. The alluring label “Perfect for Pollinators” (very popular in the UK) is, in this case, death to pollinators.

What we sow and have sown traditionally is strongly connected to cultural identity, in a way that buying plants-as-decoration is not. Rowen White, Jewell’s “unofficial poet laureate of Seed” reminds us that Indigenous people (she speaks “as a Mohawk woman”) made an agreement with plants, one in which it was understood that honor and respect towards the earth was unquestionably the more useful approach. (In a way, the book is an offshoot of the podcast, a kind of footnote in which expert commentators are allowed their say.) “It is through these relationships with plants and seeds that I’m finding my way home to a deeper understanding of being human,” she says.

The idea of seeds as the foundation of humanity is established from the beginning of the book. Seed that is shared (or traded) is bound up with friendship and community, just as the bounty of home-grown fruit and vegetables becomes a less pricey and far more precious commodity than its equivalent in a grocery store.

Jewell’s book is part diary, part discussion point. In the month of October, she focuses on oak trees. “They are ‘planting’ their acorns with abandon right now. The ground is covered in the beautiful plump fruit, and the seed inside will grow powerfully both up and down,” she writes, poetically. “Those that survive the first year, and then the first ten years, will provide food and shelter for many, many other lives—both floral and faunal—for the next 100 to 200 years, if not more.”

What We Sow: On the Personal, Ecological, and Cultural Significance of Seeds by Jennifer Jewell was published yesterday by Timber Press.

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Plants with leaves as sharp as razor blades. Plants that smell like rotten meat. Plants that will cause severe gastrointestinal problems if ingested. These all sound like great garden additions, right? Let me run right out to the nursery and buy all of these “nasties”! I think you’d be in the minority if that’s what you’re thinking.

When you see the first part of the headline on page 36, “Nasty Plants … ,” you might think we’ve lost our minds here at Fine Gardening. But take a closer look at the second half of that headline: “… for a Nicer Garden.” This feature by Bonni Engelhardt confronts a harsh reality, head on. Most gardeners battle deer, bunnies, gophers, and myriad other fuzzy plant predators. According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, there are approximately 36 million deer in the United States. Now I have no idea how they determine these sorts of things, but that count seems strangely accurate to me. As I sat down to write this letter, I glanced out my office window to see a sizable harem of female deer making their way along the woodland edge of my property, their sights set on my ‘Filips Magic Moment’ arborvitae, no doubt. “I need to get out there with some spray,” I thought.

Winter is on the horizon here in New England, and the four-legged pests are getting brazen. But I’m getting tired of dousing certain plants with deterrents on a regular basis. Given the size of my garden and the expense of building materials, however, a fence is not a viable option unless bankruptcy is a term I find palatable.

This is why the concept laid out in Bonni’s article is so appealing to me. Why not fill our beds with plants that protect themselves? These options aren’t ugly by any stretch of the imagination. In fact, if gardeners were simply presented with the plant list and no topic classification, I’m sure most of them would add many to their 2024 shopping lists. Who wouldn’t be taken by the arresting site of a backlit winged thorn rose?

Now, these “nasties” don’t come without a warning label. If you have children or pets that like to graze upon the garden’s offerings, toxic plants aren’t a good choice. And you are going to need some long-handled pruners and a sturdy pair of leather gloves to trim a few of these selections if you value the skin on your arms at all. But that seems like a small price to pay for an array of plants that will never require any protection from me to look great.

Despite all the deer spray I administer, my arbs still get browsed every year. And trust me—‘Filips Magic Moment’ isn’t so magical when it looks like a diseased, misshapen arrow. That’s a sight that truly deserves the label “nasty.” Spring task list, item #1: Remove arborvitae; replace with ‘Sasaba’ holly tea olive.

—Danielle Sherry, executive editor

Good things in life take time. Most of us recognize the truth in this statement, especially when it comes to our gardens. Not only are the best designs often those refined with incremental changes over years, but the juiciest, most umami-rich tomatoes are often those that develop slowly in the garden. The same is true for one of the quirkiest edible crops I grow, which takes a full nine months from planting to harvest: garlic (Allium sativum). It’s worth the wait, even if just to see how it grows. Growing garlic in the Rocky Mountains isn’t much different from growing it in other places, but certain varieties do better here. Learn more below.

Types of Garlic

Before shopping for garlic bulbs, understand that there are two main groups of garlic on the market: hardneck garlic and softneck garlic.

Softneck garlic

Softneck garlic is the type that is most easily found at American grocery stores. It has a soft and flexible “neck” of dried leaves above the bulb. Growing best in climates with mild winters, softneck garlic can take on a harsh flavor in regions that see cold like we do in the Rockies.

Hardneck garlic

While a few of us Rocky Mountain gardeners can get away with softneck, most of us do best with hardneck garlic, which forms a woody stem arising from the center of the bulb. Hardneck garlic is also said to have a more complex flavor profile when compared to softneck garlic, and it produces scapes to boot! More on those later. 

How to Plant Garlic

Garlic cloves represent individual lobes of a scaly bulb. (The other true bulbs we grow, including tulip bulbs, are referred to as tunicate bulbs.) Break these scaly bulbs into individual cloves and plant each clove 4 to 6 inches apart; each clove will develop into a bulb of its own. You only need to purchase a handful of garlic bulbs to plant a large crop of garlic in a home garden.

Favorite garlic cultivars for the Rocky Mountain region

Try checking your local nursery for hardneck garlic bulbs, or shop online; the varieties ‘Music’, ‘Bogatyr’, and ‘Spanish Roja’ have performed well in my area, though all the ones I’ve tried have proven themselves adaptable and hardy to at least –20°F with leaf mulch. Ordering sooner than later—sometimes much sooner—is essential for securing more unusual varieties, of which there are a surprising number. Each is said to have its own unique flavor profile. 

Step 1: Make a garden bed

Assuming you’ve procured a few garlic bulbs by fall, begin making a raised bed by scraping or hilling loose soil into a rectangular bed. I do this in October here in Fort Collins, Colorado, producing a bed 3 feet wide and as long as is needed to accommodate the number of cloves I have to plant. Since garlic, like many alliums, can be prone to root problems, raising the soil slightly helps to keep the plant’s crowns drier.

Step 2: Plant the garlic cloves

Mark out a grid using a tape measure or measuring stick, scoring the soil at 6-inch spacing. Then press one clove in at each of the crosshairs, aiming to get the clove 1 to 2 inches deep.

Step 3: Water, cover, and protect

Water well, and cover with a couple inches of an organic mulch, like leaf mulch. You can use bird netting and landscape pins to secure leaf mulch in windy areas and prevent it from blowing away. 

Tips for Garlic Growing Success

Keep up with maintenance

Remarkably low-fuss, the garlic will do its thing as long as the bed isn’t dry or saturated and is kept well weeded. Water as necessary to keep plants actively growing.

What to do with garlic scapes

Sometime around the summer solstice, hardneck garlic will produce scapes, which are leafless flower stems. These are best removed to help direct as much energy as possible into the bulb. Thankfully, they also make tasty additions to most dishes that call for garlic. Do so once the scapes complete a loop at their tops; if left too long they will divert energy away from the bulb and can result in a less tasty flavor. 

When to Harvest Garlic

Around or just after midsummer, leaves on your garlic plants will begin to brown. This indicates they are going dormant and will soon be ready for harvest. Plants brown from the bottom leaves up and are ready to be pulled when about one-third of their foliage is browning.

Curing garlic

Since my patch is small, I just pull the browning plants individually, setting them in a cool, dry place for a few weeks to cure. An old screen on folding chairs in a mudroom can do this trick just fine. This resting period allows the bulbs to dry and thicken their exteriors, helping them to store properly.

Once they are cured, I simply cut off their shoots and roots and add them to the kitchen’s garlic bin. They cook like any garlic from the store. If interested, you can grow your next crop right from these bulbs; just save the biggest few and plant them as you did the year before. 

 

More on growing garlic:

Tips and Tricks for Growing Garlic

How to Harvest Garlic

Plants a Perennial Garlic Patch

 

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Bryan Fischer lives and gardens at the intersection of the Great Plains and the Rockies. He is a horticulturist and the curator of plant collections for a local botanic garden.

While our gardens are always changing, we certainly put a lot of pressure on our plants to perform and look good, particularly the perennials. The wide range of soils and weather in the Midwest is certainly a factor, as our plants continue to be exposed to challenging growing conditions. Experimentation is not unusual as we explore plants that are new to us, but having some go-to selections with a very high chance of success makes sense for our gratification (and our finances). While no plant is truly a “slam dunk,” I’ve run across some that have always done well for me and have proven themselves over many years in myriad garden situations. Below are eight such perennials for both sun and shade.

1. ‘Millenium’ allium is a tough summer-blooming perennial that is not troubled by deer

‘Millenium’ allium (Allium ‘Millenium’, Zones 4–8) is one of those perennials that I’ve never seen not looking spectacular. The clumping, upright, thick, and strappy foliage is always tidy. In summer, spherical 2-inch-round, rose-purple flower umbels hover on 12- to 18-inch-tall stems for many weeks. Bees and butterflies are abundant on this tough perennial, while deer and rabbits leave it alone. Adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions in full sun to partial shade, this hybrid allium or ornamental onion is a sure winner.

2. Butterfly weed packs a colorful, pollinator-friendly punch in summer

Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa and cvs., Zones 3–9) features flat-topped clusters of bright orange flowers in summer that offer nectar for a wide range of pollinators. Once established, this 12- to 30-inch-tall tuberous perennial is an amazingly durable and long-lived garden plant. The flower color might vary between light orange and orange-red, and there are yellow selections too. The bloom time for this species is amazingly long, and you may see monarch caterpillars nibbling on the leaves (yay!). This native wants full sun and well-drained soil; avoid overly damp soil.

3. Red barrenwort is the perfect shade-loving ground cover for under trees

When I’m asked for perennial recommendations in shadier areas with lots of trees, I universally mention epimediums or barrenworts (Epimedium spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9). Red barrenwort (Epimedium × rubrum and cvs., Zones 5–9) is a tough, clump-forming hybrid (and easy to find) that doesn’t mind the shade and is drought tolerant once established. Red-tinted foliage in spring is topped by very ornate, rosy-red and snow-white flowers for a couple of weeks. That same foliage also gets a nice red fall color late in the season. Cut back the foliage in late winter. Also durable as a ground cover grouping growing to 12 to 15 inches tall, barrenworts in general are solid rock stars in the shade garden. Many selections are available, with foliage and flower color variations.

4. ‘Rainforest Sunrise’ hosta provides interesting foliage in a compact form

I’m a huge fan of hostas (Hosta spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) and simply am noting here one of thousands of available varieties. ‘Rainforest Sunrise’ (Hosta ‘Rainforest Sunrise’) is a small selection that reaches 8 inches tall and features wonderful golden leaves with dark green edging. While hostas do have some challenges with insects, diseases, and browsing from rabbits and deer, they’re very easy to grow and are amazingly versatile. Consistently moist soil (not soggy) in partial shade is ideal, but hostas really aren’t overly needy. Consider the wide range of varieties that feature amazing leaf colors and patterns, colorful petioles, fragrant flowers, and undisputed texture. Join your local hosta society to learn more about hostas and the excitement they garner.

5. ‘Diana Clare’ pulmonaria sports illuminating silver foliage for the shade garden

Pulmonarias, or lungworts (Pulmonaria spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8), are known for their early spring flowers (shades of blue, pink, and white), although their colorful foliage, which displays variable amounts of silvering, really steals the show for the length of the growing season. The 10- to 12-inch-tall selection ‘Diana Clare’ (Pulmonaria ‘Diana Clare’) features a heavy degree of silvering and blue spring flowers that really illuminate the garden. This mounding, low-maintenance perennial is heat and drought tolerant and amazingly deer resistant. It prefers decent soil that is well drained in full to partial shade.

6. ‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan serves up late summer blooms on an attractive plant habit

Though relatively new, ‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’, Zones 3–9) has won many awards, including the Perennial Plant of the Year (2023) from the Perennial Plant Association. This 26-inch-tall well-formed, perfectly mounded specimen is smothered in golden flowers from mid to late summer and has amazing disease resistance. Multiple trials have verified that this is a top-notch, low-maintenance selection with a very bright future. ‘American Gold Rush’ does prefer full sun located in evenly moist, well-drained soil. Seek this one out!

7. ‘Fireworks’ goldenrod is an excellent perennial for mixed borders and big spaces

You’ll need some space for ‘Fireworks’ goldenrod (Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’, Zones 4–9), as it not only gets tall but gains width over time, reaching 48 inches tall and wide. The broadly arching stems of this easy-to-grow plant are smothered in yellow flowers in late summer. This spray of color is an attractive sight for pollinators as well. Adaptable to clay, ‘Fireworks’ is rarely bothered by deer or rabbits. Decent soil and regular moisture in full sun is best for this eastern U.S. native that provides an amazing shrub-size presence in the landscape.

8. ‘Pink Cotton Candy’ wood betony shines with whirls of pink flowers throughout summer

I continue to strongly appreciate wood betony (Stachys officinalis and cvs., Zones 4–8) in general, as it seems to always look good year after year. Among my favorite selections is ‘Pink Cotton Candy’ (Stachys officinalis ‘Pink Cotton Candy’). The dark-green, crinkled foliage is later topped by upright 18- to 24-inch-tall stems that feature whorls of pink flowers throughout summer. Light shade in hotter climates is recommended, although this is certainly a sun-loving plant. With no insect or disease problems, this cultivar (from Richard Hawke at the Chicago Botanic Garden) will not disappoint and always appears robust.

—Mark Dwyer is the garden manager for the Edgerton Hospital Healing Garden in Edgerton, Wisconsin, and he operates Landscape Prescriptions by MD.

I’m always looking to get the biggest reward from the time and energy I put into the garden. I love annuals that reseed themselves in my butterfly garden and perennial plants that can be increased through division. I lean toward ground covers that creep across the garden floor. When it comes to spring-flowering bulbs, I focus on species that naturalize in the garden. That rules out fussy hybrid tulips—but not all tulips.

Tips for naturalizing bulbs in dry climates

For a plant to naturalize in the landscape, it must be able to spread and reproduce on its own. Bulbs are ideal for this, as they naturally multiply via bulb offsets and reseeding. Over time, clumps of naturalized bulbs grow and spread beyond their original planting location. To give bulbs a natural appearance in the garden, plant in irregular clumps rather than orderly rows. Repeat clumps in a random pattern along the length of the planting bed.

Ideal locations for naturalizing flowering bulbs include rock gardens and perennial borders. Plant clusters along woodland paths and beneath deciduous trees and shrubs. Though many are labeled for “full sun,” bulbs often come from cooler climates and benefit from a bit of shade from our hot summer sun. Mulching bulbs with composted bark or other organic material can also help keep soils cooler in the summer.

When selecting bulbs to naturalize, focus on those native to drier climates. Consider soil type and annual rainfall, particularly spring precipitation. Some species thrive without supplemental irrigation, while others require a good drink in spring. There are even flower bulbs that tolerate clay soil. Here are some of the best selections for our region.

Bulbs for challenging soil conditions

Many flowering bulbs, including species or botanical tulips, readily naturalize even in hot, arid gardens, providing impressive displays of spring blooms year after year without a great deal of work.

Beautiful bulbs for dry soil

If you love tulips (Tulipa spp. and cvs., Zones 3-8), skip the fussy hybrids and go straight for the botanical tulip species. The species low-growing tulip (Tulipa humilis and cvs.) is native to high, rocky slopes in the Middle East, while late tulip (Tulipa tarda) grows in rocky subalpine meadows in central Asia. For gravelly soils, consider candia tulip (Tulipa saxatilis and cvs.), a native of Crete.

Alliums (Allium spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) are another great group of bulbs for dry climates, as they benefit from a dry dormant period in summer. The vibrant globes of ‘Purple Sensation’ (Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’, syn. Allium aflatunense ‘Purple Sensation’) are a favorite among gardeners and pollinators alike. Also try rosy drumstick alliums or round-headed leek (Allium sphaerocephalon and cvs.) and the star of Persia (Allium cristophii). Note that alliums commonly reseed in the garden, making them excellent at naturalizing.

Miniature reticulata irises (Iris spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), such as Iris reticulata and Iris histrioides, also benefit from dry summer soil and perform well in arid regions. They can be planted with cheery yellow crocus (Crocus flavus and cvs., Zones 3–8) or ‘Orange Monarch’ snow crocus (Crocus chrysanthus ‘Orange Monarch’, Zones 3–9) for a brilliant spring display. Another low-growing bulb to throw in the mix is starflower (Ipheion spp. and cvs., Zones 5–9), which produces pink, purple, or white spring blooms.

Stalwart bulbs for clay soil

Clay soil requires careful selection, as many bulbs readily rot in heavy or moist soil. Crocus and spring starflower are good choices, and daffodils (Narcissus spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) are unbothered by clay (as well as hungry critters). Plant bulbs a little shallower in clay soil to help with drainage. One benefit of clay soil is the nutrition it provides to growing bulbs.

A stunning group of bulbs for clay soil is wild hyacinths (Camassia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), which boasts gorgeous purple, blue, or white blooms reminiscent of their common name, though more open. Native to North America, this group includes several species from the Intermountain West that are suitable for upland gardens. Those best suited for clay include small camas (Camassia quamash and cvs.), which grow naturally in moist habitats, and Atlantic camas (Camassia scilloides), the only species native to the east.

Grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum and cvs., Zones 4–8) is another clay-tolerant bulb that is excellent for hot climates. The deep blue, fragrant flower heads are a favorite for naturalizing in lawns. Grape hyacinths also tolerate dry soil, as do small camas.

When to plant bulbs in hot climates

Don’t be too eager to plant bulbs in the fall, as warm spells are likely well into the season. I once had a newly planted patch of alliums emerge and bloom in an unusually warm November. Wait to plant bulbs until night temperatures are consistently between 40 and 50°F. Then cover bulbs with a lightweight mulch after the ground freezes.

Many bulbs require a period of cold temperatures below 40°F during winter to initiate flower development. Gardeners in Zones 9 to 11 may not experience sufficient winter chilling for bulbs to naturalize and bloom. In other locations, excessive summer heat may limit selections or require planting in heavier shade. The Southwest region varies significantly in terms of elevation, soil conditions, and temperature. Consult your local extension educator for species most suitable to your location.

 

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Kim Toscano is a horticulturist based in Stillwater, Oklahoma. She previously hosted Oklahoma Gardening, a weekly PBS television program produced by the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service.

Fall brings out my desire to “bring the outdoors in.” Collecting berries, seedpods, and dried flowers is a passion I share with many gardeners. Using these to display in the house helps us to remember the beautiful days of summer. Harvesting these things gives a feeling of satisfaction of what we, as gardeners, have grown over the season. But there are a surprising number of fabulous fall plants that we don’t usually see growing here in the Pacific Northwest. One shrub that I rarely see in gardens here is winterberry (Ilex verticillata and cvs., Zones 3–9).

Winterberry is a natural match for Pacific Northwest climates

That winterberry isn’t seen more often in the Pacific Northwest is baffling, given how easy it is to grow in our climate. This shrub actually loves wet soil, so plant winterberries in marshes, along streams, or in riparian areas as a great alternative to the usual suspects for those areas. Winterberries can also be planted in regular garden beds if you give each shrub room to stretch out. Growing to 8 feet high and wide, it can act as a hedge or barrier because it has a thick branching structure. This is a deciduous plant with green oval leaves; the flowers are insignificant, but just wait until the fall when they transition to fruit. Winterberry thrives in full sun to partial shade.

Three winterberry varieties to grow in the Pacific Northwest

Berry Poppins^® winterberry

Stems of winterberry fruit are often found for sale in autumn at local florists or grocery stores. But despite this plant being easy to grow, you’d be hard-pressed to find it in most landscapes in our corner of the country. While searching in some specialty nurseries this spring and summer, I saw a few Berry Poppins^® winterberry (I. verticillata ‘FARROWBPOP’) for sale. This is a lovely variety with bright red berries, the typical fruit color of most winterberries in the trade.

Berry Heavy^® Gold

Sadly, I have not seen the newer gold variety of winterberry during my plant-shopping trips. Berry Heavy^® Gold (I. verticillata ‘Roberta Case’) was bred to produce lots of bright gold berries. This species planted in mass is an impressive sight, visible from great distances. In my garden, Berry Heavy^® Gold usually fruits in October through November. Cut branches of the berries can last through Christmas, so you can use them in decorative displays.

Mr. Poppins ensures winterberries’ berries

Berry Heavy^® Gold and Berry Poppins^® are female plants. To produce berries, you’ll need a male plant to pollinate the females. One male plant, like Mr. Poppins^® (I. verticillata ‘FARROWMRP’), will pollinate up to five female plants.

Additional tips for growing winterberries

A nursery in my area was able to special order a few choice winterberries for me two years ago. There were a few berried branches last year, and this year they look a lot fuller. Note: You shouldn’t prune these shrubs, unless it’s to harvest the long stems of beautiful berries for display. Pruning will decrease fruit production.

I have my winterberries planted as a backdrop to a section of my ornamental grass garden. As the grasses start to lose their color and fade out, the winterberries step up to put on a fabulous show in late fall and early winter. Winterberry is a plant that no Pacific Northwest garden should be without.

 

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Susan Calhoun is the owner of Plantswoman Design in Bainbridge Island, Washington.

Photos: courtesy of Proven Winners Color Choice

Keeping citrus trees indoors is a dream for many gardeners who live in cold climates like the Northeast, especially through long, dark, and snowy winters. Many gardeners face the agonizing decision either to allow a precious and often expensive citrus tree that they found at a garden center in spring to freeze or to bring it inside for winter. This article will go over everything you need to know to grow citrus outdoors during summer and indoors during winter, and it offers tips on pest management, pollination, fertilization, and repotting.

The history of growing citrus indoors

Growing indoor citrus in the Northeast isn’t a new concept. In the nineteenth century, many gardening books promoted citrus as houseplants, but we mustn’t forget that those fireplace or steam-pipe radiator-heated Victorian parlors provided ideal conditions. Many parlor plants that thrived then would perish today, including camellias (Camellia spp. and cvs., Zones 6–10), flowering maples (Abutilon spp. and cvs., Zones 8–11), and yes, citrus. It all comes down to relative humidity and keeping temperatures cool enough to reduce pests and stimulate flowers. Those giant Victorian windows helped too.

Where to put overwintering plants indoors

Sunny, cool, and humid conditions, which are perfect for growing citrus indoors, are rare in our homes today. So unless you live in an older home with steam radiators that you can turn on and off or you have some unheated spare rooms, you may need to be a bit more creative when looking for that perfect spot for your citrus tree.

Unheated rooms might be rare in modern homes, but many folks today have an unheated cellar, a cool mudroom, or a garage that doesn’t freeze. If it’s dark and cold, there should be little new growth until late winter, so a nearby window will be enough. The ideal winter temperature range for citrus is somewhere between 40°F and 55°F, with a slight drop at night. Find that, and you’ll be rolling in fruit. If temperatures are slightly warmer (over 55°F), then add an LED lighting unit with full-spectrum bulbs with a timer set from 14 to 16 hours. In these conditions the plant may survive, but you are more likely to get pests and unseasonable new growth.

Pests that citrus plants may face indoors

Citrus kept indoors are prone to pests, and the warmer and drier the air, the more risk pests pose. Avoid this by keeping plants in as cool a location as possible and providing as much humidity as you can. A weekly shower is helpful. (Set pots in the shower and provide a deep room-temperature soak.) This will wash off the leaves and keep them healthy. If you see leaves yellowing and dropping indoors, this could be a sign that the atmosphere is too dry.

Citrus are prone to the big trio of indoor plant pests: mealy bugs, spider mites, and the dreaded scale. Aphids are also a problem, but usually only when plants are beginning new growth, as aphids prefer young, tender leaves and flower buds. Try an insecticidal soap or neem oil for these pests. But often the best treatment comes naturally once plants go out for the summer. Scale is perhaps the most difficult pest to eliminate organically if the infestation is bad. If caught early, a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol may be useful in scraping off each scale insect. More often than not, a plant with a big infestation of mealy bugs, spider mites, or scale may need to be tossed.

When to move citrus indoors for winter

In autumn, move citrus trees indoors once a hard freeze threatens (most citrus can handle a light frost, except limes). In the Northeast, this can be anytime between late September until mid-October, depending on your zone.

When to bring your citrus outdoors for summer

In spring, plants that have survived a winter indoors will be relieved to go outside as soon as the temperatures are consistently above freezing, which in the Northeast could be as early as mid-April. A trick some growers practice is setting citrus outdoors to get a slight nip of frost, which will usually kill most indoor pests. This is only safe if your plant has not yet started to set flower buds or any new growth. You can always set plants out on sunny, cool days in March if temperatures are above freezing, but bring them back indoors if a freeze threatens. Dormant, mature foliage can usually handle a light freeze, but the roots cannot. The safest bet is to haul plants out once the local forest trees have begun to break their dormancy and once maples (Acer spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) begin to bloom. Set plants out of direct sun for a few weeks, and gradually introduce them to more sun. During summer, full sun to partial shade is preferred.

The best citrus varieties for overwintering indoors

Variety and species matter when it comes to indoor success with citrus. Luckily, the most common citrus tree available today, the ‘Improved Meyer’ lemon, is the best for winter culture indoors. I’d like to add any kumquat to the list as well. Any of the large citrons (like ‘Ponderosa Lemon’ and the curiously shaped ‘Buddha’s Hand’) also do well indoors, but many might consider these larger, thorny plants unwieldy and awkward. Moreover, the fruit, while novel, is inedible unless cooked.

Calamondin oranges are also a good bet. They make attractive specimen plants, and not only are they often covered in sour fruits and fragrant flowers, but their foliage can be attractive as well. Another useful indoor citrus tree is the kaffir lime, whose foliage is often used in cooking.

It’s best to avoid heat-loving citrus like grapefruits, Persian limes, and oranges like ‘Valencia’ or blood oranges. These often drop their fruit indoors, or sulk with cooler temperatures.

How to pollinate citrus flowers

When fragrant blossoms appear in late winter or spring, they will benefit with a little pollination help even though these trees are considered to be self-pollinating. Without wind or bees, you might end up with poor fruit set. In the Northeast, it’s OK to set blooming plants outside for a few hours on mild winter days. Foraging bees or honeybees may find the flowers, or the wind will help move branches around, releasing pollen. If the weather is still fierce, you can tap the stems firmly to help distribute the sticky pollen, or hand-pollinate with a cotton swab.

Fertilizing citrus plants

Fertilize plants in spring and summer when they are actively growing outdoors. Use a balanced organic fertilizer (5-5-5). Occasionally an iron or zinc deficiency might cause yellowing leaves, but the easiest way to overcome this is to use a fertilizer specifically for citrus.

Repotting citrus plants

While most citrus prefer to be grown in a smaller rather than a larger container, it can often be difficult to judge when the best time to repot a citrus tree is, especially since citrus form many surface roots that will become exposed. I top-dress all citrus trees with an inch or so of fresh potting compost every spring if roots are exposed, but I repot less frequently, especially with mature plants. Younger plants will grow more rapidly, however, and may need repotting annually for the first two or three years. Once mature and growing in a 12-inch or 14-inch pot, most plants will benefit from just a simple refreshing of the old soil. You can remove a plant from its pot when the soil is dry, shake off excess medium, and replace it with fresh soil, repotting the plant into the same pot.

Always pick the fruit before spring

Citrus that is grown indoors for winter and outdoors for summer usually will bloom in spring and summer, with fruit developing in fall or winter. Picking the fruit is key if you want a second crop the following year. I learned this the hard way, wanting to enjoy oranges and lemons all summer long on our many plants. Fruit that isn’t harvested will cause plants to produce fewer flowers and fruit the following year. Now at the end of winter I harvest every lemon or kumquat off the branches—a great excuse to make marmalade.

Follow these tips to help your citrus trees thrive all year round in the Northeast or other climate with cold winters. If you provide the right care and conditions, your tree should thrive and set fruit for years to come.

For more Northeast regional reports, click here.

—Matt Mattus is the author of two books: Mastering the Art of Flower Gardening and Mastering the Art of Vegetable Gardening. He gardens in Worcester, Massachusetts.

Photos: Matt Mattus

The centerpiece of a traditional American landscape has long been a verdant, weed-free expanse of lawn. But all too often conventional lawn care is achieved by applying an onslaught of synthetic fungicides and fertilizers that are detrimental to soil health. In my mind, an organically maintained lawn uses a mix of turfgrass species and clover and has the added benefit of supporting pollinators and a host of soil-dwelling organisms.

Steps to Improve Your Lawn Organically

Fall is the best time of year for organic lawn renovation, a multistep process that helps to build healthy soil and a dense, thriving plant community. As ambient temperatures drop, soil temperatures remain warm and fall rains hydrate the soil, conditions that create a perfect environment for grass-seed germination. However, it is important to begin turf renovation at least 45 days prior to the first frost to allow time for new grass seedlings to establish.

Step 1: Test your soil

Begin with a soil test from your local extension agency, which will provide a baseline of the overall health of your soil as well as recommendations to improve its health. If your soil is found lacking, be sure to choose an organic fertilizer.

Step 2: Remove weeds naturally

Throughout the summer many invaders may have established. For larger weeds such as broadleaf plantain, hand removal is quick and easy. If you have large patches of crab grass or smartweed, a garden rake or a mechanical de-thatcher can make removal more efficient. Many annual weeds pull up easily after a nice rain.

Step 3: Add compost to your lawn

The next step is to gather or purchase enough high-quality compost to cover the entire surface area of the lawn. Compost adds organic matter to the soil, which increases cation exchange capacity (CEC). CEC describes how well soil can store a particular group of nutrients, which can then be absorbed by the grasses and other plants growing in the space.

High-quality compost also adds beneficial micro fauna and fungi that are the basis of nutrient cycling. Simply adding a quarter-inch of compost over the entire area will have a huge benefit to the overall health of your soil. Learn how to make your own compost here.

Step 4: Aerate the soil

Many lawns are heavily traveled by humans and equipment, resulting in compaction that is detrimental to soil health. Reduced porosity makes it harder for air, water, and plant roots to penetrate the soil. A walk-behind core aerator, which you can rent from a home improvement store, helps to alleviate compaction by punching holes into the soil, creating little pockets for water, compost, and grass seed to settle into. Usually one pass with the aerator is sufficient, but several passes may be needed in high-traffic areas.

Step 5: Broadcast grass seed

Overseeding with broadcast spreader or a drop spreader is an efficient way to apply grass seed. Tall fescue blends are my choice for sunny areas in the Mid-Atlantic region. This type of turfgrass is more tolerant of drought and disease than other options. If you have a shady situation, a shade mix with perennial rye and fine fescue is ideal.

Step 6: Rake the seed to help it settle

Seed-to-soil contact is extremely important, since small grass seedlings can dry out quickly and perish if their roots are not in firm contact with the soil. After the grass seed has been spread, gently rake or drag the entire area to help the grass seed settle into nooks and crannies.

Step 7: Water as needed

Even moisture is also very important for stimulating seed germination. If rain is not predicted after the seed has been applied, water the entire area with sprinklers, and keep watering daily until germination occurs. Initially you will only need to keep the top inch of soil moist, but after germination you want to encourage the roots to travel deep into the soil. After seedlings emerge, increase watering duration to keep the top 6 inches of soil evenly moist.

Step 8: Mow and fertilize

Once the seedlings have reached 5 inches in height, mow with the deck set at 4½ inches. This will encourage the seedlings to send roots deeper into the soil and to produce lateral shoots. If your soil test indicated that fertilizer is needed, this is the best time to apply an organic fertilizer.

 

Following these steps on a yearly basis will provide a strong foundation to produce healthy soil and a thriving lawn that is beautiful, aids in carbon sequestration, and reduces the use of harmful chemicals.

 

Learn more:

Are Low Mow Grasses the Way to Go?

Exploring Native Lawn Alternatives That Thrive in the Mid-Atlantic

Suppress Weeds Organically with Corn Gluten Meal

 

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Adam Glas is a garden supervisor and rosarian at the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College in Swarthmore, Pennsylvania.

Camellias (Camellia spp. and cvs., Zones 6–10) are mostly thought of as shade shrubs, and common camellia (Camellia japonica, Zones 7–9) varieties do look best in the shade. The foliage stays a dark glossy green instead of the sunburned yellow it would be with more sun. However, there are some camellias that do fine in sunny conditions, even here in the hot South. Mostly sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua, Zones 7–9) varieties and crosses can tolerate sun; they can grow in most landscape situations except for wet or high pH soil. As long as they have good drainage, they will thrive. Here are a few camellias that are sun and heat tolerant.

‘Taylor’s Perfection’ camellia

Camellia ‘Taylor’s Perfection’, Zones 8–10

This shrub has beautiful, large flowers that are made up of two or three layers of light pink petals with open centers. The blooms absolutely cover the plant, making for a showy display beginning usually in late March here in Alabama. A fairly quick grower, ‘Taylor’s Perfection’ gets about 8 feet tall in a few years and is equally as wide. It has a rather loose growth habit.

October Magic^® Ivory™ camellia

Camellia sasanqua ‘Green S99-016’, Zones 7–9

October Magic^® Ivory™ camellia is one of a series developed by camellia breeder Bobby Green. It blooms in fall and has a manageable size. This plant has fully double cream-colored flowers that are a little ruffled, making them extra charming. It produces an abundance of blooms, which usually appear in late September and continue into December. This shrub has a fairly dense growth habit and reaches about 8 feet in height but is narrower in width.

‘Rose of Autumn’ camellia

Camellia sasanqua ‘Rose of Autumn’, Zones 6–9

‘Rose of Autumn’ has large semi-double rose-pink flowers with ruffled petals. The abundantly produced flowers are lovely. They bloom late in the fall. This plant has a very upright growth habit and gets about 10 feet tall but only 4 or 5 feet wide.

‘Tiny Princess’ camellia

Camellia ‘Tiny Princess’, Zones 7–10

‘Tiny Princess’ is very showy. The flowers appear as small, light pink, semi-double bells in mid to late winter. They bloom all along the branches and face in different directions. Standing under a ‘Tiny Princess’ camellia that has been trained upright into a tree form is delightful. Its small foliage matches the small flowers. This shrub grows naturally into a vase-shaped form about 10 to 12 feet tall.

‘Leslie Ann’ camellia

Camellia sasanqua ‘Leslie Ann’, Zones 7–9

‘Leslie Ann’ camellia has wonderful double flowers with white petals that have medium pink edges and exteriors. These blooms are very showy and cover the branches from midfall to Christmas. ‘Leslie Ann’ grows fairly quickly with an upright growth habit. It can easily reach 10 feet tall but is usually only 5 to 6 feet wide.

Camellias are icons of the southern garden. They are useful as landscape plants and also make great specimen shrubs. These more sun-tolerant selections mean that you don’t have to miss out even if you don’t have shade in your garden.

For more information on camellias, check out:

And for more Southeast regional reports, click here.

—Jason and Shelley Powell own and manage Petals from the Past, a garden center in Jemison, Alabama.

Photos, unless otherwise noted: courtesy of Bobby Green

Caring for cactus plants isn’t as difficult as many people think, and they’re actually quite easy to grow in the right conditions.

Plus they can live for a lifetime once you know how to create their ideal environment and provide the best care.

This complete guide will teach you all of that. You’ll discover how to grow cactus plants indoors or outdoors with tips on where to plant them.

You’ll also learn about how much water, soil, sunlight, and fertilizer they need, as well as propagation, flowering, temperature, and more, so you can keep them thriving for many years to come.

What Is A Cactus

All cacti are members of the Cactaceae family, and are known for their high heat tolerance and drought resistance.

Most originated in the deserts of North and South America, but today they can be found all over the world.

The Cactaceae family is technically a sub-category of succulents, which means they store water in the stems and leaves. They’re also slow-growing perennials that can often live for hundreds of years.

The appearance, size, color, growth habit, and flowers range widely across the different species.

They can grow from a single central stem, or they can be barrel-shaped, tubular, flat, or round. They’re well known for having spiky spines, but they can also be smooth or even fuzzy.

Different Types Of Cactus Plants

With thousands of different types of cacti to choose from, it’s impossible to list them all in one post.

But there are some that are more popular among gardeners. Here are a few of my favorites.

• Barrel cactus
• Saguaro
• Old man cactus
• Prickly pear
• Monkey tail cactus
• Brain cactus
• Rat tail cactus
• Bunny ears
• Moon cactus
• Pincushion cactus
• Star cactus
• Organ Pipe cactus
• Hedgehog cactus
• Peanut cactus
• Fairy Tale cactus
• Parodia magnifica
• Walkingstick cactus

Flowers

With the proper care, most cacti will flower every year. The aroma, size, color, and shape totally depend on the species.

The blossoms commonly appear during the spring or summer, but some will bloom during the cooler months.

Several unique types will bloom for a single day, or even at night, while others will last much longer.

Toxicity

The toxicity of cactus plants will depend on the variety you grow. Many are non-toxic to cats and dogs, but have other dangers like sharp spikes or spines to consider for their safety. 

Check the ASPCA website for your specific type to verify that it’s safe to have around pets.

How To Grow Cactus Plants

Before we talk about cactus care specifics, we should chat about where and when to grow them. The right timing and location are key to their longevity.

Hardiness

You’ll probably be surprised to learn that some cacti are remarkably cold hardy. Whether you live in growing zone 1 or 13, there is a cactus that will survive in your area.

It’s important to choose the right one. For example, hardier ones can survive all the way down to -60°F (-51.1°C) outdoors, while others will suffer with a light frost. Always check the label on whichever species you’re considering.

If you fall in love with one that won’t survive outside year round, consider growing it in a container that you can bring inside when it gets too cold or keeping it as a houseplant year-round.

Where To Grow Cacti

Different varieties may have specific requirements about the best location, but a general rule of thumb is that a cactus needs lots of heat and sun.

They also do not like wet feet or humidity, and can easily rot in overly damp conditions.

Choose a location outdoors that receives a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun per day where the ground is rocky or sandy and drains freely.

For indoor cacti, find a spot near a south-facing window or other bright area. Always use a container that has drainage holes and a coarse or gritty fast-draining soil.

Cactus Care & Growing Instructions

Now that you have the perfect spot in mind, it’s time to learn how to care for a cactus. The best part about them is that they only need a little bit of attention to thrive.

Light

Whether indoors or out, all cacti need 6+ hours of sunlight per day. This can be bright light inside the house, or full sun out in your garden.

Too much shade can cause stunted, slow, or leggy growth, and prevent flowering.

However, some can be sensitive to high heat and direct sun, and may start to burn during heat waves.

If that happens with yours, protect them during the hottest part of the day using a screen cloth, or move them to an area that gets afternoon shade.

If you have trouble finding the right spot indoors, add a grow light to help supplement.

Water

By far the most common issue beginners have with cactus plant care is overwatering. It’s the number one cause of their death.

Cacti store water in their leaves and pads, so they don’t require nearly as much as other plants. You can get tons of specific tips in my cactus watering guide, but here are the basics.

Wait until the soil dries out completely between drinks. Then water deeply, but make sure all of the excess drains completely, and the soil is never soggy, as this can cause rot.

If you struggle to get it right, buy yourself a moisture gauge probe. It will help you understand when the plant is truly dry so never overdo it.

Humidity

Just like overwatering, high humidity can also cause issues of rot, even if the soil stays dry. Some cacti are more tolerant than others, but most prefer an arid to semi-arid environment.

Since indoor air is typically drier, especially during the winter months, it makes an ideal setting for cacti to grow.

Temperature

Many cactus plants are remarkably temperature tolerant. Their native desert climate often features both extremes – from very high heat to below freezing.

Some, however, can be killed by a light frost or get sunburned if it exceeds 100°F (37.7°C).

The exact temperature range depends on the species of cactus you’re growing. Always check the plant tag to make sure you know what’s ideal for yours.

Fertilizer

Regular feedings during the growing season are an important part of cactus care. Not only does it stimulate growth, but it can help encourage blooming.

Use an organic cactus specific formula, a balanced liquid fertilizer, or compost tea a few times per year from spring through summer.

Or, apply slow-release granules once anually at the beginning of the most active growth period.

Soil

One very key component of cactus care is choosing the right soil. The best mixes are chunky, dry, aerated, and sandy or rocky. 

Those qualities will ensure that water drains off quickly, which is exactly what you want.

You can purchase a good quality commercial mix, or make your own by amending regular potting soil with things like perlite, pumice, and coarse sand. 

If you’re not sure how, get the recipe for the ideal mixture in my post about making DIY cactus soil.

Transplanting & Repotting

Another reason that cactus care is so low maintenance is that they grow slowly and don’t need repotting often.

However if yours has roots showing from the bottom or a bulging or cracked pot, it may be time to size up.

Wait until new growth has started in the spring or early summer. This is also the best time for transplanting them to a new location in your garden.

Always use a pot with drainage holes that’s 1-2” larger than the previous container. Use thick gloves to handle it, and bury it at the same depth. Pack in the rest of the pot gently to hold it in place.

Pruning

While it can vary between different types of cactus, most will very rarely need pruning. However, you can trim it to remove damaged or dead areas, or to encourage branching.

Tackle it in the spring or summer while the plant is doing most of its growing. Use a good quality pair of clean, sterile pruners, loppers, or a pruning saw, and always wear heavy-duty gloves.

Pest Control Tips

Pests can become an issue for cacti both indoors or outside the garden, especially if your plant is not in great health. Scale, mealybugs, and cactus bugs are the most common culprits.

Insecticidal soap is a good method of control. I make my own by combining 1 teaspoon of mild liquid soap with 1 liter of water.

Neem oil can also be effective, but some cacti are sensitive to it, so make sure you test it in a small area before applying it to the entire plant.

Cactus Propagation Tips

The best way to propagate your cactus will depend on the species, but most can be multiplied through stem cuttings or offsets taken from the plant in the spring or summer.

Both offsets and cuttings can often be rooted in the same way. Carefully remove them from the plant with sharp pruners and let them dry for a day or two. The cut end needs to form a callus to prevent rot.

Then, dust the cut end with rooting hormone and plant it in a very coarse, lightly dampened medium. Keep it in a bright location until new growth begins, then pot it up or transplant it.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Cactus care is usually very easy, but no plant is completely trouble free. If you run into one of these more common issues, my tips can help you get back on track.

Yellowing Cactus

Yellow spots or patches on your cactus are a sign of stress. They can be caused by lack of sunlight, sunburn, improper watering, the wrong soil, or temperature fluctuations.

Make sure yours is getting 6+ hours of light per day in dry, gritty soil. Use a moisture gauge to help monitor how much water it’s getting to prevent overdoing it.

White Spots On Cactus

If you see white spots on your cactus it’s most likely caused by a fungal issue or bugs.

Check for a sticky cottony buildup or hard white patches, which can indicate mealybugs or scale. Treat pests right away with insecticidal soap or neem oil.

If there are no signs of bugs, check for rot. You can also try applying an organic fungicide to stop issues like mildew or mold from spreading, and make sure your cactus is not getting too much humidity.

Soft Brown Spots Or Stem

Soft spots that occur on the stem or other parts of your cactus are likely a sign of rot. This is usually caused by high humidity or overwatering.

There are ways to save your cactus if it hasn’t gotten too bad. Check out my guide on managing cactus rot for detailed info on how to handle it.

FAQs

Here I’ve answered some of the most commonly asked questions about cactus plant care. If yours isn’t listed, please add it to the comments section below.

Are cacti easy to grow?

Most cacti are easy to grow because they retain water and require very little hands-on care. With enough sun, coarse soil, and the occasional drink, they’re a very low maintenance plant.

Is a cactus an indoor or outdoor plant?

A cactus can often be grown either indoors or outdoors successfully. The location you choose depends on the size and variety you have, as well as where you live. Some do better inside where they’re protected from cold weather, while others are too large or need more direct sun and heat.

How long can a cactus live?

Some cactus plants can live for hundreds of years with the proper care. How long yours will survive depends on the species and its environment. Providing it with right growing conditions will help it live as long as possible.

Are cactus plants succulents?

Yes, cactus plants are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. The Cactaceae family is a subcategory of succulents because they’re a type of water-storing plant.

How long does it take for a cactus to grow?

How long it takes for a cactus to grow depends on the variety and its care. Lots of sunshine, well-drained soil, and the occasional fertilizer will speed things along, but most are naturally very slow-growing, even under perfect conditions.

How do I keep my cactus healthy?

The best way to keep your cactus healthy is to understand its needs. Provide it with 6 or more hours of bright or direct light a day, water only when it’s dry, feed it with organic fertilizer while it’s actively growing, and understand the temperature range it can tolerate.

Is a cactus a good houseplant?

A cactus makes a great houseplant because they thrive in the dry air and consistent temperatures commonly found indoors, and are happy even when you ignore them for long periods of time.

If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!

More Houseplant Care Guides

Share your cactus care tips in the comments section below.

From the inbox:

Top pic are: pole beans (they have now filled-in and our deck is very private), purple basil, zinnias, jalapenos, serranos, shasta daisy, rosemary, and petunias. Along the fence are tomatoes. We plant 2 tomato plants per stake (t-post and a portion of cattle panel). 

Please disregard the clothesline. It was in use the day of the picture. Lol. 

The bottom pic is 1 of the pots of eggplant on the patio. Along the garage are garlic chives, lovage, sedum, and marrow. 

We grow everything from seed and this year, I’m learning to save seeds. 

We do have a compost area at the back corner of our property. We put all kitchen scraps, lawn clippings, garden pits, and recycle our potting soil. 

Thank you for your blog.

-C

Even in a little bit of space you can make an impact on your food budget, plus have fun experimenting with new vegetables and recipes.

The water barrels are a good idea as well. That’s something we need to work on.

The long-term goal is to build our nursery up so we can ship around the country and have lots of inventory. Right now we only have enough space to do the occasional plant sale. But with a greenhouse and a much larger cleared area, we’ll be able to expand into a solid business.

It starts with a few pots on the porch, then next thing you know you’re the Alabama warlord of perennial edibles…

Today’s listening:

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In this article, we will explore the art of harvesting this plant, discovering the optimal techniques and perfect timing to unearth both its robust roots and delectable leaves.

Here’s what we’ll uncover in this article:

Which Chicory Is Which?

Navigating the world of chicory can be a bit perplexing, as there are various plants that bear the same common name.

Belgian endive (Cichorium intybus var. foliosum), curly endive (C. endivia), and radicchio (C. intybus var. radicchio) are all members of the same genus, and several of these are varieties of the same parent species, C. intybus, that many may have heard of.

While these various plants share certain characteristics, in this article, we will focus specifically on C. intybus or common chicory, a species that is widely cultivated and cherished for its leaves and roots.

Learn more about growing your own common chicory in our guide.

When to Harvest

Timing is imperative when it comes to harvesting this versatile herb.

The best time to harvest is before the plant reveals its dazzling flowers. Your chicory should be ready to harvest in 120 days max after sowing seed.

This biennial herb devotes its first year to building robust roots and lush foliage, reserving its flowering phase for the second year.

Savvy growers agree that the highest quality and flavor can be found in the fall of the first year though some wait until early spring the next year, just before those captivating blooms emerge.

Older roots tend to be woody and bitter if harvested beyond fall in the first year of growth, but waiting until cooler temperatures arrive in fall to pick the roots gives them time to develop more fully, becoming more flavorful.

Leaf Harvesting

When leaves reach maturity, the time has come to reap the rewards of your efforts. You have a couple of options, depending on your preference.

One approach is to opt to pick the whole plant. Gently pull it from the ground, ensuring that the roots come along with the foliage.

The leaves are typically mature when they reach a height of 12 to 18 inches, though many gardeners choose to pick them at a smaller size.

Take care to delicately coax the root out of the soil using a hand trowel, minimizing any potential damage. Once the plant is removed, make a clean cut about two inches above the roots to separate the leaves from the rest of the plant.

Alternatively, using an “eat as you grow” approach by selectively trimming the tender leaves in the spring when they reach a length of six to eight inches offers a delectable culinary experience and the promise of future harvests.

It’s important to note that the leaves remain edible throughout the growing season, but they tend to become more bitter as they grow. You can reduce the bitterness of mature leaves by boiling them.

Once you’ve gathered your leaves, it’s time for a thorough washing. Rinse them twice under running water using a sieve, removing any unwanted debris such as grass or withered leaves.

Allow the leaves to drain by lightly shaking the sieve to remove excess water, and then let them rest on paper towels or a bowl to complete the draining process.

Root Harvesting

To ensure that your harvesting efforts are well-rewarded, it’s wise to uproot a generous amount of chicory at once.

Just like carrots, chicory produces an impressive taproot that can be pulled out by hand with the help of a spade or shovel.

Start by clearing the area around the plant of any obstacles.

Chicory roots can spread widely, so begin digging approximately six to eight inches away from the plant’s base. Insert the spade or shovel at this distance, angling it away from the plant to protect the roots.

Insert it to a depth of about four to six inches below the soil surface. Gently work around the plant, gradually loosening the soil. To extract the root, firmly grasp the stem with gloved hands and pull it steadily from the ground.

If you encounter resistance, use the spade or shovel carefully by applying gentle and steady upward force, lifting up the root and leveraging it out.

If needed, gently hose off any tangled roots and separate them from the verdant greens and sturdy stalks. You can use your fingers or a hand trowel to gently tease roots apart.

Bring your precious haul to the kitchen and equip yourself with a trusty brush, a potato scrubber, or even a fresh scouring pad, and give those roots a vigorous scrubbing.

Every stubborn speck of dirt must be banished from their rugged exteriors. Be prepared for a challenge, as these roots are tough and delightfully uneven.

Use your vegetable peeler to shred the chicory into the smallest, most uniform pieces possible.

You might encounter fibrous bits or tiny fragments that resist your peeler’s charm. If that’s the case, you can chop them up with a knife.

The ultimate goal is to cut it into the smallest, evenly sized pieces before the grand finale of dehydration.

Preservation and Storage

Drying the leaves can be a delightful process that takes us back out into the fresh air.

You can choose a cozy spot like a balcony, veranda, or a covered area. Keep them out of direct sun as this can cause them to lose flavor and color.

Lay the chicory leaves in a single layer on a clean, flat surface, such as a drying rack or a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

Ensure that the leaves are not stacked on top of each other, as this can lead to uneven drying and possible clumping. There’s no need to turn them while they’re drying, but there is no harm in doing so if you prefer.

After a couple of weeks, the once-green leaves will become dry and brittle, and they’re ready for use or storage. Fully dried, the leaves will crumble easily.

If you prefer a faster method, an electric dehydrator can be used with gentle temperatures up to about 115°F (45°C).

Fresh leaves may also be stored in plastic bags in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

Want to keep your fresh leaves for longer? Freezing this herb is another practical way to preserve it, for up to three months.

Cut the rinsed leaves into halves or quarters for easier handling. Next, blanch the chicory in boiling water for a maximum of 90 seconds, then transfer it to ice-cold water for another 60 seconds to halt the cooking process. After blanching, pat the chicory dry to remove excess moisture.

Place the blanched and dried chicory into labeled, thick freezer bags, removing as much air as possible before sealing them and transfer the bags to the freezer for storage.

With these simple steps, you’ll have a convenient supply of frozen chicory ready for use whenever you need it.

Frozen chicory adds convenience to your cooking routine. To prepare it, simply simmer the frozen greens in boiling water for three to four minutes until they’re thawed and fully cooked.

Pair them with butter or a sauce for a tasty side dish in minutes, or defrost them in the fridge overnight to add to other recipes.

While frozen greens are versatile and they can be used in many recipes, note that they’re not suitable for cold salads due to changes in texture.

When it comes to drying the roots naturally, you will follow the same process as you would for drying the leaves, laying them out in an area with good air circulation and avoiding direct sunlight.

In about two weeks, the dried roots will be ready for use. Dried roots will have a light brown color on the outside and a yellowish tint inside.

Alternatively, use a dehydrator set to no more than 105°F (40°C).

Finally, let’s talk about making a coffee substitute. Chicory root is often used as a coffee substitute with a rich, coffee-like taste when roasted. It’s also associated with numerous health benefits.

Its earthy, slightly bitter flavor profile and potential digestive benefits have earned it a dedicated following among individuals looking to enjoy the sensory pleasures of coffee without the stimulating effects of caffeine.

After shredding the roots or cutting them into small pieces, roast them at 300°F in a single layer on a baking sheet until they turn dark brown. This can take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour and 30 minutes.

Keep an eye on them, turning them occasionally for even drying. Once you smell that coffee-like aroma, they’re ready to be taken out. Allow the roasted roots to cool on the baking sheet.

Once they’ve cooled down, store in a cool, dark place in an airtight container to preserve their flavor. Crush the roasted roots like coffee beans, brew to your desired strength, and enjoy your very own locally sourced “coffee.”

As for fresh roots, they can be kept in the fridge at 38 to 42°F for several months until you’re ready to use them.

Read more about common chicory health benefits and uses in our guide.

Collaborative post

Would you like to make your garden a sanctuary for wildlife? This guide covers some simple changes you can make to transform your garden into a haven for your local wildlife.

Green fingers

If possible, you need to try and use garden plants that provide both food and shelter.

You should also aim to fill your garden with pollinator-friendly plants such as lavender, buddleia, and even dandelions. Wildflowers, echinacea and honeysuckle are also great flowers for bees and butterflies.

Fruit trees are another good option if you’d like to attract mammals and birds.

Get creative

If you have a lot of unwanted wood lying around, then why not make a log pile out of it? This will help to create a habitat for small insects, mammals and amphibians, who can make a home out of all the cracks and gaps.

A log pile doesn’t need any maintenance, and can be left untouched for several years. You could ask around to see if anyone has any firewood they aren’t using, or use untreated wood from DIY projects you have been working on.

Go organic

Avoid using pesticides where possible. The main reason for this is because it is harmful to animals and it also interrupts the food chain.

Instead of reaching for the chemicals, you can control weeds by digging them up by hand, use natural slug control methods, and growing plants that act as a natural pest deterrent. A healthy garden ecosystem should do most of the hard work for you.

Recycle

Start composting with a compost bin. You can use unwanted vegetation here from your garden, including fallen leaves and grass cuttings. If you do this along with household waste such as tea bags, paper and vegetable waste, then this will help you to provide shelter and food for many species.

Just make sure that you avoid putting meat or dairy in your compost bin, as this will encourage vermin and unpleasant smells.

Provide a water source

If you don’t have a small pond or a bird bath, then now is the time for you to create one. It can be really simple; for example a washing-up bowl that’s been sunk into the ground, or a mini pond in a bucket.

If you want to attract birds, bees and other wildlife to your pond, then having ample foliage is key. Bees love allium bulbs, so look into them if you don’t have any in your garden already.

Make a home for birds and bats

If you want to take your wildlife gardening one step further, why not make or buy a nesting box for birds or bats? Make sure that you put it in a sheltered space and out of the reach of cats.

Build a bee hotel

If you can find some bamboo shoots or even some hollow stems, then believe it or not, you can make these into a bee hotel. This provides bees with the ideal environment to thrive. We’ve got a step-by-step guide to making a bee hotel here.

Climbing plants

You can encourage climbing plants such as jasmine, clematis or ivy to grow up your garden walls. This will provide somewhere for birds to nest, and can also add privacy to your garden.

The best thing about growing plants such as this is that they help to provide pollen for bees and other beneficial insects. And of course, they can look stunning too.

Follow the above tips, and your garden will be transformed into a wildlife sanctuary that helps to support your local species while also providing you with a huge amount of enjoyment.

Giant Feather Grass, Stipa gigantea

Shimmering, statuesque Stipa gigantea (or Celtica gigantea, although few use this official name) is amongst the most impressive ornamental grasses to grow. Commonly known as giant feather grass or golden oats, it’s one one of the few grasses that gives year-round interest, with a basal clump of evergreen narrow leaves followed by a halo of flower spikes that emerge in early summer before the metallic inflorescences appear a few weeks later. Over the following months those tall flower heads become increasingly golden, swaying beautifully in the breeze to show-stopping effect as they catch the sun. And on most sites those stems will remain standing through winter, looking magical when frost covers the garden, too.

Here’s everything you need to know about growing this standout plant.

Photography by Clare Coulson.

Given the right conditions, Stipa gigantea requires almost no maintenance. It prefers a sunny open position in free-draining soil, so give it plenty of space. The basal foliage alone can sometimes cover a few square feet so don’t crowd it closely to other perennials or shrubs, and consider the height of the spikes as well as the overall height of the plant which can reach up to seven feet tall and as much across. Stipa ‘Goldilocks’ is a slightly more compact cultivar growing to five to six feet tall.

Stipa gigantea makes a great feature plant either as a single specimen or dotted through a border. It is especially suited to gravel gardens on open ground where it can bask in hot conditions. If choosing partners, consider the flower stems which can easily tangle with tall perennials. It’s best underplanted with shorter perennials or grasses, clipped forms, or swathes of bulbs. Or euphorbias which can be deadheaded into neat mounds just as the Stipa begins to flower. In high summer it makes a fantastic backdrop to richly colored perennials, including shorter dahlias or summer bulbs.

Today’s photos are from Chris.

I am from Phoenixville, Pennsylvania where I run a homeless outreach non-profit and offer plants and seedlings from the garden in exchange for donations. Our website is https://BDAOutreach.org to find out more!

I’ve been working on turning my side yard into one huge garden for four or five years total now. We had some nonnative pines in this spot; they all died, so I started one bed at a time. I go heavy with native pollinators and perennials but also plenty of ornamentals. There’s enough room for everything here!

The yard six years ago—before it started turning into a garden

Lush plants now fill the area, like these huge hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus hybrids, Zones 5–9) derived from native species that boast huge flowers and beautiful foliage.

A huge mass of zinnias (Zinnia elegans, annual) blooms in shades of orange and red. Zinnias are native to Mexico and are easily grown from seed to fill a sunny area with flowers.

The gardener’s best friend on a brick walkway through the garden

Along with all the plantings in the ground, containers of houseplants outside for a summer vacation are lined up along the walk. Putting houseplants outside for the summer—taking care to move them into bright sun gradually so the leaves don’t burn—is a great, easy way to help them thrive.

Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus, annual) are North American natives and are easy to grow from seed. As you can see if you look closely here, they’re big hits with bees and other pollinators, and then turn into living bird feeders as the seeds mature.

A bumblebee enjoys the nectar and pollen on the zinnias.

A furry garden friend between the lushly planted beds

Containers of petunias (Petunia hybrids, Zones 9–11 or as an annual) add extra pops of color to the garden.

Chris sent in so many great photos that we’re going to come back and see more of his garden tomorrow.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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What Are Shallots?

Like ramps, leeks, and chives, shallots are species in the Allium genus, members of the Amaryllidaceae family.

In some countries, including Australia, scallions are called “shallots.” But scallions, or green onions, aren’t shallots.

The two most well-known types of shallots are the French, A. oschaninii, and Dutch, A. cepa var. aggregatum – or a hybrid derived from one or both species.

Another species, A. stipitatum, is known as the Persian shallot. It’s a type of drumstick allium that grows wild in parts of western Asia and is used in Iranian and Turkish cuisine.

Similar to both onions and garlic, shallots are made up of bulbs sheathed in fine, papery skin. On the inside, they are layered like an onion, but these layers are separated into two to three garlic-like cloves.

Flavorwise, a shallot has a pungent flavor, similar to an onion when it’s raw. But when it’s cooked, the shallot becomes mild, sweet, and rich, with a melt-in-your-mouth consistency.

In the United States, this bulb is sometimes considered a bit of a specialty ingredient. It’s not grown commercially by large-scale operations in the US, and most shallots we find in grocery stores are imported from Europe or Mexico.

But many independent farmers and market gardeners grow the tasty bulbs, so you can often find them at your local farmers market – or better still, why not grow your own?

But first, let’s cover the two most common types and dig into the details of why these tasty bulbs are sometimes the subject of controversy.

French

Due to the delights of an exchange student program, I have a French sister, and I’m wary of asking her about shallots.

This is because French shallot growers tend to get enraged at the suggestion that anything other than a cultivar of A. oschaninii, should be labeled or considered a true shallot.

French varieties rarely flower and set seed, so the only way to grow them is from last year’s sets – immature bulbs.

Since they are always grown from sets, “true” French bulbs have a hard scar on the bottom with just a few hairs.

This is an easy way to tell French cultivars apart from Dutch shallots, which are often grown from seed and will have a bunch of hairy roots at the base, like an onion.

Other French hybrids derived from A. oschaninii and/or A. cepa var. aggregatum sport skin that’s coppery-red or gray. Notable cultivars include ‘Echalote Grise,’ ‘Longor,’ and ‘Pesandor.’

They’re expensive to purchase in France and the United States because they must be hand-planted and harvested, unlike Dutch shallots.

Dutch

Now we move on to these controversial bulbs, which the French consider to be mere onions.

And they’re not wrong.

The Dutch shallot, A. cepa var. aggregatum, is indeed an onion. Or, at least, it’s a botanical variety of the common onion, A. cepa.

While these tasty bulbs are now considered a variety of onion, they used to be classified as their own species, A. ascalonicum. As a result, you’ll sometimes see their name written A. cepa var. ascalonicum.

Instead of forming one large bulb, like the common onion, the shallot is a multiplier onion, sometimes called a “potato onion.” Each small bulb is called an “aggregate” bulb.

The flavor is similar to that of French shallots but a bit sweeter, and the color is more often yellowish than red or copper-colored.

The clusters of bulbs are usually larger and rounder compared to the French types that are elongated.

And unlike French cultivars, A. cepa var. ascalonicum is easy to grow from both seed or sets, making this type less expensive to purchase at the grocery store.

Cultivation and History

Even though their common names suggest a French or Dutch origin, this is not the case.

The exact origin of both these plants is shrouded in mystery, with a dash of confusion thrown in. The species A. oschaninii grows wild in south and central Asia.

A. cepa var. aggregatum also probably came from central Asia, but it does not appear to grow wild anywhere today.

From Asia, both types of shallot made their  way to India and then to Europe. The word “eschalot” first appeared in the Oxford English Dictionary in 1707.

Apparently, ancient Greeks who enjoyed the bulb thought it originated in the ancient Canaanite city of Ashkelon, which is still a city today in modern-day Israel.

Other spellings of Ashkelon include “Ashqelon” and “Ascalon.”

From here came the Latin word ascalonia, or “onion from Ascalon,” which evolved into escalonia.

The French translated that name as “eschaloigne” between the 8th and 14th centuries, and then it evolved into “eschalotte” in Middle French, and then “échalote,” which is the French word for “shallot” today.

The English called it eschalot and then eventually shortened this to “shallot.”

Quite the whirlwind trip through etymology, no?

You can grow shallots in USDA Hardiness Zones 2-10, but planting time varies depending on where you live.

If you’re in Zones 2-5, you’ll want to plant sets or sow seeds in early spring, two to four weeks before your average last frost date.

Those in Zones 6-10 can plant their sets in the fall, after the first frost occurs, or in early spring.

Propagation

You can propagate both types of shallot from sets, and A. cepa var. aggregatum may also be started from seed.

When they are started from seed, the plants produce just three to four bulbs per plant.

But when you plant a bulb set in your garden, here’s what happens: a bundle of about eight to 12 bulbs will grow around the original.

Before we get started, let me clear up something that has caused some confusion for me in the past. When you’re looking for seeds to plant, they should look a bit like little black raisins:

These are seeds that come from the flowers that bloom at the top of the long scapes, the flower stalks.

“Seed shallots,” on the other hand, refer to sets – immature bulbs that you plant out in the garden.

Depending on where you buy them, they’ll either be in a cluster or separated into individual bulbs.

If they are separated into individual bulbs, don’t make the mistake I did and break them apart before planting.

Don’t do what I did the first time.

I broke these ones apart based on a little research, and they failed to produce new growth. It’s probably because by breaking them apart, I removed the protective skin.

But the French shallots I ordered after that, which were smaller and longer and which I did not break apart, started sprouting just days after I planted them.

Whichever way you choose to grow them, be it from true seed or seed sets, here’s how to do it.

From Seed

There are two ways to grow eschalots from seed. You can either start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before your average last frost date, or sow them outdoors four weeks before your average last frost.

Seed-grown shallots will produce up to four bulbs, and they’ll be ready for harvest 100-120 days after germination.

Indoor Sowing

Eight to ten weeks before your average last frost date, fill seed trays with a good quality potting mix.

Make one small, 1/2-inch-deep hole in each cell and drop two seeds inside. Cover with soil, spray with water, and set in a warm, sunny location.

Keep seeds moist until germination, which will happen within 10-14 days.

As soon as the seeds germinate, place seedlings in direct sunlight on a windowsill or under a grow light. Ideally, they will need six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day.

When seedlings are two to three inches tall, thin them so there’s only one growing in each seed cell.

You’ll transplant them out into the garden about eight weeks after germination, or when each plant is about five to six inches tall with at least three long, spindly leaves.

To transplant, select a sunny location with loose, well-draining soil amended with well-rotted compost or manure, or mixed with a balanced 10-10-10 (NPK) fertilizer according to package instructions.

Dig a hole the same size as the seed cell the plant grew in and set the seedling inside. Space each plant six to eight inches apart in rows 12 inches apart.

Backfill with soil and water thoroughly. From now on, you’ll give these seedlings one inch of water per week.

Outdoor Sowing

Two to four weeks before the average last frost date in your area, direct sow seeds outdoors in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sun and that has loose, well-draining soil.

Amend with well-rotted manure or compost, or with a balanced 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer according to package instructions.

Make holes that are just 1/2 inch deep and place two seeds inside each. Space holes six to eight inches apart, in rows 12 inches apart.

Keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged, until they germinate, and then slow watering to one inch per week.

When seedlings are two to three inches tall, thin them to one plant every six to eight inches.

Growing from Sets

To grow these beauties from bulb sets, you’ll need to pick a location in the garden that gets six to eight hours of sun daily.

If you live in Zones 2-5, you should plant them two to four weeks before your average last frost date in early spring.

Gardeners in Zones 6-10 can also plant sets two to four weeks before the average last frost date in the spring, or they can plant the shallots in the fall, after the first frost occurs.

The benefit to growing them during the mild winter is that the bulbs love the cold.

They’ll grow bigger and tastier if they are allowed to grow a little, then go dormant after the first freeze, and then reemerge the following spring.

It’s easy to plant sets. Carefully separate the bulbs before planting, but make sure you don’t make my mistake and start butchering the bulb into individual cloves!

The shallots need their protective layer of skin to be intact, to prevent the bulbs from rotting.

Amend the soil with 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer, or well-rotted compost or manure.

Dig a hole the same depth as the bulb and place it inside, scarred side down.

Backfill with soil, covering all but the very tip of the bulb, and water thoroughly.

You’ll want to give the bulbs just an inch of water each week, so they are provided with consistent moisture but don’t get soggy enough to start rotting.

Within a few days, you’ll see green shoots popping up.

If you put your bulbs in the ground in the spring, clusters of eight or more bulbs will be ready for harvest in 100-120 days.

Fall-planted bulbs take a bit longer to mature because growth will slow over the cold winter months, but they will be bigger and heartier.

You can harvest fall-planted shallots about seven to nine months after you sow them.

How to Grow

Shallots grow best in loose, organically-rich, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0. You can conduct a soil test to determine the pH and nutrient levels of your soil and amend accordingly.

Due to their shallow root system, it’s crucial to keep the area around them weed-free.

They’ll need one inch of water per week and will benefit from an application of 10-10-10 NPK liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks.

Alternatively, you can use bone meal and water-soluble kelp powder, according to package instructions. This will give the plants an appropriate dose of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

That’s what I do, and my shallots love it.

To protect fall-planted shallots during the winter, you can apply a layer of organic mulch, such as straw or wood chips, around each plant.

You can also do this with spring-planted sets or seeds if you want to use it as a barrier against weeds.

Aside from these simple steps, there’s not much you need to do to keep your eschalots happy until harvest time.

Managing Pests and Disease

The best way to prevent disease is to avoid planting your shallots in the same area where any other Allium species have been planted in the past three years.

Shallots are generally pest resistant, typically only falling prey to thrips or onion maggots.

Pests

It’s easy to identify both major pests.

Onion thrips (Thrips tabaci) look like tiny grains of rice. They’ll appear on the leaves and munch away, weakening the plant, but they won’t usually disturb the growing bulb.

To get rid of thrips, you can spray the leaves with insecticidal soap or neem oil according to package instructions.

If this is the case, your plant may be infected with purple blotch, caused by the fungus Alternaria porri.

While this disease doesn’t necessarily render bulbs inedible, it can eventually kill all the foliage, causing the plant to stop growing.

The best way to prevent purple blotch is to avoid watering the foliage, irrigate only at the soil level, and spray a copper-based fungicide on the leaves the moment you see signs of infection.

White Rot

If the leaves begin to turn yellow prematurely and the plant stops growing, take a closer look at the bulb area. Do you see fuzzy white mold at the base of the plant?

If so, your Allium may be suffering from white rot, caused by the fungus Sclerotium cepivorum. This disease can destroy your entire crop and it may remain in the soil for up to 20 years.

If you have an outbreak of white rot, don’t plant any Allium crops there until you’re 20 years older.

That’s going to be a long wait…

Alternatively, you can remove the infected soil and dispose of it somewhere that it can’t infect anything ever again.

Start a fungicide rotation plan to treat the surrounding area and refill the area with fresh soil, also treated with fungicide.

Harvesting

Harvest time will depend on when you planted your seeds or sets.

In the late summer, for spring-planted sets or seed, or in late spring for fall-planted sets, the tops will start to turn yellow and dry out.

At this time, decrease watering to just 1/2 inch per week. When most of the top parts of the foliage are yellow, it’s time to harvest.

Gently tug them out of the ground, one at a time. Braid the tops together and hang the braided clump to dry in a sheltered, warm spot.

After a week, remove the dried foliage and store the bulbs in mesh bags. Place in a cool, dry location and you can store them for about six months.

You can also set some aside to replant next spring or fall.

Learn more about how to harvest shallots in this guide.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Now we come to the best part: dreaming about all the ways we can enjoy these tasty bulbs!

One of my most favorite ways to enjoy my homegrown harvest is with this recipe for green beans and soba noodles with crispy shallots, which you can find over at our sister site, Foodal.

Another top contender is this simple, wholesome dish of lentils sauteed with shallots and topped with strawberries and goat cheese, also from Foodal. Yum!

I also love using these in place of their spicier sister, the onion, for a more palatable yet equally delicious flavor in all sorts of recipes.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Bulb	Maintenance:	Moderate
Native to:	South and central Asia	Tolerance:	Frost
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	2-10	Soil Type:	Loose and organically-rich
Season:	Spring, summer, fall	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Time to Maturity:	3-9 months	Companion Planting:	Spring greens, strawberries, tomatoes
Spacing:	6-8 inches	Avoid Planting With:	Beans, peas
Planting Depth:	1/2 inch (seeds), bulb deep (sets)	Family:	Amaryllidaceae
Height:	12-35 inches	Genus:	Allium
Spread:	8-12 inches	Species:	cepa or oschaninii
Water Needs:	Moderate	Variety:	cepa var. aggregatum
Common Pests:	Onion maggot, onion thrip	Common Diseases:	Pink root, purple blotch, white rot

If you’re growing your own pumpkins and you aren’t sure how to tell when they’re ready, this article is for you.

It may come as a relief to you to discover that gourds offer plenty of signs that they’re ready for picking.

As long as you know what to watch out for, you’re sure to pick your pumpkin at its prime, to enjoy as a Halloween decoration, pureed and baked in a pie, or slow-cooked to perfection in your favorite fall soup.

Ready to discover the secrets of Cucurbit ripeness, figure out the best way to harvest the gourds, and discover an important post-harvest step you shouldn’t miss?

Here’s what I’ll cover:

By monitoring your Cucurbit plants and keeping your eye out for these five signs, you won’t miss the perfect picking time.

1. It’s the Right Time of Year

Most squashes, whether they’re cultivars of Cucurbita pepo, C. moschata, or C. maxima, take about three to four (or even five) months to mature. It all depends on your climate, the variety that you’ve planted, and the gourd’s growing conditions.

An important thing to do is keep tabs on how long your plant has been growing and compare it to the days-to-maturity section on your seed packet.

I recommend using a gardening journal to keep this information organized.

In most cases, if you sow seeds in late April or early May, your squash will ripen sometime between late August and late October.

There’s a reason that these plump fruits are associated with the delights of autumn!

But instead of using this timeframe as a hard and fast rule, just start keeping your eye out for signs of readiness once mid-August hits.

That way, you won’t pick the fruit too early – or too late. When you start waking to crisp fall mornings, it’s time to start monitoring your local weather more closely.

While pumpkins can handle a light frost that kills the vine, they won’t ripen after picking if you let them sit out in the garden during a heavy frost, or if they’re exposed to temperatures that dip below 32°F.

So you’ll need to harvest them early and let them ripen indoors if you notice that the weather’s going to cool off significantly, or your first killing frost is on the way.

2. The Gourd Turns the Desired Color

All immature gourds are green, so it’s common sense to assume that a pumpkin isn’t ripe until it turns orange, right? Or whatever color it’s meant to be at maturity?

Well… sort of.

Sometimes a squash won’t turn fully orange even after the vine dies in the fall. (If this happens, you can still ripen the fruit off the vine. Read our guide to ripening green pumpkins for more info.

Or maybe it’ll turn the right color, but the rind won’t be quite as firm as it should be.

But as a general rule, color is a good indicator that a gourd is ready for picking. When my ‘Howden’ begins to turn golden-orange, I’ll know that picking time is near.

Here’s the thing, though: if you’re going to cook your pumpkins soon after harvest, you can pick them when they’ve still got green spots.

You also don’t need to worry quite so much about the hardness of the rind in this case, as you would if you were planning to use your harvest for decoration instead.

3. Your Fingernail Doesn’t Puncture the Rind

Along with color, one of the most important indicators of squash maturity is the shell, which should be hard and firm if you aim to keep a pumpkin around for a few months.

If you’re pretty sure your gourd is ripe, try poking your fingernail into the rind.

If your nail makes a small dent but does not puncture the skin, that’s a good sign that the rind has matured into a hard shell and it’s time to pick your Cucurbit.

The shell will protect the pumpkin from pests and diseases after it’s picked, which means it can be featured as a bright spot of autumnal sunshine on your front porch for a nice, long time.

For those of you growing pie pumpkins, you can harvest your fruit when the rinds are firm but not rock-hard – especially if you’re planning on making pies within the next week or so, or roasting and pureeing the flesh to keep in the freezer..

Otherwise, you’ll want to do that special step I mentioned before, which we’ll talk about in just a moment.

5. The Stem Begins to Turn Brown

If the stem of your gourd feels hard to the touch, as opposed to being slightly spongy, check the color. Is it starting to dry out and turn brown?

That’s a good sign that the vine is dying, and starting to taper down the amount of nutrients it gives to the gourd.

You can actually allow the entire vine to die around your squash before you pick it – this will happen after the first light frost.

But you don’t want to leave it there forever.

How to Harvest a Ripe Pumpkin

Now that you know when to pick, let’s talk about how to do it.

You’ll need a clean, sharp knife.

All you have to do is measure the stem at least three to five inches from the top of the fruit, and carefully cut the stem away from the vine.

The portion of stem that you leave on the gourd will actually continue to provide the last dregs of nutrients to the fruit, meaning it will last longer after it’s harvested.

Make sure you don’t carry the fruit by the stem, though: it’s not a handle. If the stem breaks off, your gourd will start to rot right away.

Make sure you support the bottom and sides when you carry it, and leave the stem area clear.

You can do this outside if the temperatures are consistently around 80°F after harvest, or indoors if you don’t. Just make sure the area has good ventilation and lots of sunshine.

If your area is extra hot, you may want to provide a few hours of shade each day so the skin doesn’t get sunscald.

After a week and a half or so of curing, your pumpkin will store nicely in a cool (50°F or slightly higher), dark, dry place until you can cook it. Or, it’ll keep well on your front porch, as long as temperatures don’t drop below 45°F.

You could also place it on your dining room table or sideboard at this point, as a fall decoration.

A cured pumpkin can last for two to three months, so don’t skip this important step!