Category: Home & Garden

The first time I grew celery, I was surprised by how much flavor homegrown celery has. The added flavor, along with the convenience of harvesting a stalk or two as needed, means celery has earned a forever place in my cool-season garden. Learning how to grow celery is easier than you think. Learn how to grow celery with these 5 tips. See the end of the article for a bonus tip about how to grow celery in containers.

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Disclaimer: this post on growing celery contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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5 Tips for How to Grow Celery

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1. Choose your planting method for growing celery 

Plant celery from seed, transplants, or even the cut-off base of a grocery-store bunch. Here’s what I’ve learned about the different methods:

• Starting seeds indoors gives you control over the variety and generally yields the largest plants and most consistent results. 
• If you find transplants at your local nursery, it’s a great way to get a quick start.
• A cut-off base is a simple way to grow celery and is fun for kids to try in the garden. 

Try all three methods for growing celery and see which one works best for you.  

Here’s a video tutorial that explains how to grow celery from a cut-off base.   

Start celery seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before your last frost date. Transplant celery seedlings (or cut-off celery bases) when the soil temperature is at least 50°F (10°C).

Celery planting dates for the low desert of Arizona:

Transplant seedlings (or cut-off celery bases) outside 8-10 inches apart at the same level as the nursery pot. For square foot gardening, plant 4 celery per square.

If planting from seed in the garden (not recommended because of the need for a long growing season), plant seeds 1/4 inch deep and thin to 8-10 inches apart when seedlings are about 6 inches tall.

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2. Celery needs plenty of water & nutrients to grow

When growing celery, the soil must be consistently moist, not soggy. If celery dries out, it can be stringy, bitter, and bolt. Mulching the soil after planting helps keep celery from drying out. I use garden grids to water my garden with excellent results.

Celery grows best in compost-rich soil that is high in organic matter.

Fertilize celery with a fish-emulsion solution once a month throughout the growing season. To do this, add fish emulsion to a container and fill it with water, following the dilution instructions on the label.

Fish emulsion is an excellent source of organic nutrients and nitrogen that will not burn plants. It is easily absorbed and quickly taken up by the roots of the plants.

You can also amend the soil around celery with compost. Feeding your celery allows it to thrive.  

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3. Blanch celery before harvesting (if desired)

Blanching celery (even self-blanching types) helps eliminate the bitter taste and makes it sweeter and more tender. Unblanched stalks are darker green and tougher but contain more nutrients than the lighter-blanched varieties.

To blanch celery, about two weeks before harvesting, wrap or cover stalks with heavy paper, soil or mulch, juice or coffee cans, boards, or other items to keep out the light. Leaves should be exposed. 

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4. Harvest celery as needed throughout the season

• For the best flavor, water celery well the day before harvesting.
• Harvest single stalks as needed from the outside of the plant when it reaches the desired height.

Harvest celery until it begins to get hot. For me, in Arizona, that means late spring.

Celery doesn’t like hot temperatures, and as it heats up, it will become bitter. As summer nears, blanch the celery (if desired) and harvest the entire plant. To harvest the whole plant, cut it at soil level with a knife. 

If left in the ground, the celery may also bolt, meaning that the plant focuses on producing seeds. When it bolts, the central stalk of the celery becomes taller, flowers, and produces seeds.

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5. Preserve harvested celery in several ways 

Homegrown celery has so much flavor and is worth preserving if you can’t use all the garden produces. 

• Celery will keep in the fridge for several weeks if wrapped in foil or submerged in water in a sealed container. 
• To freeze celery: Chop, then blanch in boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain, and put blanched celery on a cookie sheet, and freeze. Once the celery is frozen, store it in freezer bags for up to a year. 
• Dehydrate or freeze-dry celery. Grind into celery powder before using; it does not hydrate well. 

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Bonus Tip: How to grow celery in containers

Celery is a good choice for containers.

• Choose a container for growing celery that holds at least 3 gallons of soil.
• Be diligent about watering container-grown celery. Celery that does not get enough water has hollow stalks and is stringy.
• Feed celery in containers with a half-strength application of liquid organic fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season.

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Although rollie pollies (also called pill bugs or potato bugs) usually eat decaying and decomposing plant matter, occasionally, pill bug numbers are high, and they can wreak havoc on a garden (and your favorite strawberries!). This post shares my favorite natural pill bug control methods.

To my great frustration, countless seedlings have been destroyed by rollie pollies in my garden.  As an organic gardener, I’m unwilling to use pesticides to control pill bug numbers when they get off balance, so I’ve had to get creative. These are my time-tested and favorite ways to keep pill bugs from killing my seeds and seedlings. 

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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Best Natural Pill Bug Control Methods For the Home Gardener

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1. Don’t give rollie pollies in the garden what they want

Pill bugs prefer damp and dark hiding places. Try not to make life comfortable for them. 

Remove wet leaves, fallen fruit, and dead plant matter from your garden. Try not to overwater your garden, as rollie pollies are also attracted to moisture. 

This step can be helpful, but if you still have problems, keep reading through the rest of the ways to keep pill bugs from destroying your garden.

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2. Set traps to get rid of rollie pollies in your garden

If an area of your garden has an overabundance of pill bugs, setting traps is an effective way to bring the numbers back in balance. Check traps daily, and remove and either discard or transplant the pill bugs to other areas of your yard. 

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EFFECTIVE WAYS TO TRAP PILL BUGS INCLUDE:

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Citrus or fruit traps as a natural pill bug control method

Cut the fruit in half and place it face down in the affected area. The pill bugs will be drawn to the fruit. Check traps in the morning, and dig down a bit to collect the rollie pollies. Fruit can often be used for 2-3 days in a row. 

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Beer or yeast traps as a natural pill bug control method

Set a shallow container (such as a pie plate) with the rim flush to the ground; fill with beer or 1-2 Tb yeast dissolved in water. The rollie pollies will be drawn to the beer or yeast, fall in, and drown.

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3. Make paper tube, newspaper, or duct tape collars how to get rid of rollie pollies in your garden

Sick of losing my seedlings to rollie pollie damage, I wrapped the stems in duct tape (sticky side out) and it worked! The seedlings are thriving with no pest damage to the stems. This technique is quick, simple, and effective. I’ve also used newspaper and toilet paper rolls as collars effectively. 

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Duct tape collar as a natural pill bug control method

Wrap a small piece of duct tape (sticky side out) around the stem of a seedling. Bury one-half of the taped stem in the ground, leaving some of the tape above ground as well. Remove the tape when the stem grows larger to keep the tape from suffocating the stem. 

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Newspaper collar as a natural pill bug control method

Tear a couple-inch strip of newspaper and carefully wrap it around the seedling stem, burying some if possible. As the seedling grows, the paper will fall off — no need to remove it. 

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Toilet paper tube collar as a natural pill bug control method

Slide the tube over the seedling and into the soil. It’s best to have the collar buried an inch or two below the soil. 

I’ve had mixed success with this type of collar. Sometimes it works. Other times the pill bugs get inside the collar. 

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4. Overplant to overwhelm the rollie pollies in the garden

Certain crops are best started in the garden from seed, which makes using collar methods ineffective – the seedlings are often eaten before there is anything above ground to protect. When this happens, I usually try overplanting. 

For example, instead of planting 1-2 seeds, I plant 3-4 seeds. In my experience, at least one of the seeds is overlooked or somehow protected by the other seedlings and not eaten by the rollie pollies — success! 

If more than one seedling survives, thin additional seedlings by cutting at the soil level rather than pulling. (Pulling may disturb the roots of remaining seedlings.)

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5. Use Diatomaceous earth (DE) or Nematodes to combat pill bugs in the home garden

Using diatomaceous earth (DE) to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Diatomaceous earth (DE) can be an effective means of controlling pill bug populations around your plants. DE is safe to handle (for animals and pets, too) but not to inhale – wear a mask while using.

DE, or diatomaceous earth, works to kill pill bugs by dehydrating them. Diatomaceous earth is made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms called diatoms. When pill bugs come into contact with DE, the sharp edges of the diatoms cut through the bug’s exoskeleton and absorb the moisture, causing the bug to dehydrate and die.

DE is commonly used in organic pest control as it is non-toxic to humans, pets, and the environment. It is important to follow the instructions on the product label when using DE to ensure effective and safe usage.

To use DE for pill bug control, apply a thin layer around their frequented areas, wear gloves and a mask, avoid windy conditions, and re-apply after rain. Apply in the late afternoon when the bugs are active and follow the product label for safe and effective results.

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Using nematodes to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Nematodes are microscopic organisms that are often used as a natural method of controlling pests in gardens.

Specifically, the Steinernema carpocapsae nematode is effective at targeting and killing pill bugs. These nematodes are applied to the soil in the garden and penetrate the skin of the pill bug. Once inside, they release a bacteria that quickly kills the pill bug.

Using nematodes for pest control is considered a safe and environmentally friendly option as they only attack specific pests and do not harm beneficial insects or soil quality. However, it’s important to follow the application instructions carefully to ensure the nematodes are introduced properly.

Additionally, nematodes may not be as effective if the soil is too dry or too hot, so it’s important to monitor the environmental conditions in your garden to determine the best time to use this method.

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Which natural pill bug control methods should you try in your home garden?

I’ve found the best way to bring pill bug numbers back into balance is by incorporating a combination of these methods. Effective methods for combating pill bug damage in a home garden include reducing favorable environmental conditions, creating physical barriers, using predators, manually removing the bugs, and using natural repellents.

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Read on to discover what you can gain by cultivating your own fruit trees in a greenhouse, tips for planning your project, varieties to consider, and suggestions for preparing your greenhouse.

Here’s a preview of what we’ll cover:

Why Grow Fruit in a Greenhouse?

There are a multitude of advantages to growing fruit trees in a greenhouse, and this method is becoming popular on a commercial scale as well.

Some of the benefits include:

• Earlier and longer harvest period 
• Higher quality harvest
• Less chemical use (especially fungicide)
• Protection from the elements (wind, rain, frost) and animals
• Weed control

Whether your fruit tree is planted in the soil of your greenhouse or its permanent home is in a pot, you can use an outdoor structure to extend your growing season.

This means that you can grow types of fruit you otherwise wouldn’t be able to grow outdoors in your climate. It also allows you to grow varieties which require a longer growing season.

Many trees need a certain number of chill hours, or exposure to cold, in order to set fruit.

This is why keeping certain varieties inside your heated home during cold winters is not an option, and this is where an outdoor structure comes in handy.

An unheated greenhouse can provide optimal temperatures for fruit trees to “chill” during the winter months.

Before You Get Started

A greenhouse can be used in a number of ways to grow fruit trees. It all comes down to your climate, what varieties you want to grow, and how you want to grow them.

Before you get started, think about how you plan to use your greenhouse.

Are you planting directly into the soil or are you using a container to grow your fruit trees?

Are you using the greenhouse for growing your trees all year round, or are you simply moving your potted specimens into and out of the greenhouse in different seasons?

What types of fruit do you wish to grow and what are their specific needs? Is your greenhouse heated or unheated?

Unlike other plants grown in a greenhouse, fruit trees can get very big so spacing is an important consideration.

Think about how high the roof is, the spacing required between specimens, and the size of the door if you plan to move large pots in and out.

Also consider how you’ll actually move your potted specimens in and out of your greenhouse.

Many of these concerns can be addressed by selecting dwarf varieties.

Types of Fruit Trees for Greenhouses

A variety of tropical, subtropical, and temperate fruits can be grown in a greenhouse, and each of these will have their own unique requirements.

Here is a list of common fruits grown in greenhouses (to name a few!):

If you’re growing citrus for the first time, try a less demanding type like lemons.

There are also a few types of limes, calamondin oranges, and kumquats which are easier to grow.

A bonus of citrus fruit is that the trees are small, evergreen, and have beautiful flowers with a heavenly aroma.

Although you can have some success keeping your citrus tree in a heated home, most do better with some chilling hours and humidity.

I can attest to this as my dear kumquat survived only one winter indoors!

Figs are a good choice if you want to grow in containers since this arrangement suits them well. A bonus of growing figs is that you may get a double harvest during the summer.

Thinning the fruit that develops is sometimes necessary, and can be difficult if you get attached to every baby fruit like I tend to. I have to remind myself that thinning will result in a better quality harvest.

If this is too difficult for you, choose a kumquat – their fruits are so small and their growth habit is so bushy that they don’t need to be thinned.

You may be tempted to grow a number of different varieties in the same greenhouse – a peach, grapefruit, and a fig sound nice!

However, you need to choose those that have the same or very similar needs since your greenhouse will have one climate only.

This should be done each morning during the flowering period to ensure success.

It’s a pretty fun task though, and when the fruit finally starts to develop, it’s a wonderful feeling! If you want to avoid this extra step, choose a self-fertile variety.

Greenhouse Setup

Controlling the environment in your greenhouse may or may not require a lot of extra work and gadgets – it’s largely up to you.

However you choose to do it, there are some factors which need to be controlled in order to successfully grow fruit trees in a greenhouse:

Light

You may already know that greenhouse materials prevent some sunlight from reaching the plants inside, sometimes providing only 60 to 70 percent of the sunlight that outdoor-grown plants would receive.

But did you know that sunlight distribution will also vary in different parts of the greenhouse?

The middle and southern areas will receive significantly more light than the northern section. This is important to consider especially if planting fruit trees into a permanent location.

To increase light in your structure, use reflective films on the floor and higher transparency film on the outside walls.

Maintaining a squeaky-clean greenhouse will pay off too since it will maximize the sunlight shining through.

Humidity

There’s an ideal range of humidity for your fruit trees, which will depend on the season and the varieties you’re growing.

For example, fruit trees have differing requirements before and after flowering.

Apricots, for instance, need more humidity (60 to 80 percent) before flowering, and less humidity after flowering (no more than 60 percent).

Retractable films or other structures that you can open and close can help you regulate humidity and temperature in your structure.

While humidity is important, proper ventilation is equally important as it will prevent diseases from developing.

Temperature

You’ll need to monitor and regulate the temperature, so it doesn’t swing too far in either direction.

While the spring sun may warm your face just enough, it can easily bring your greenhouse above 95°F (35°C) and overheat your fruit trees.

This is especially damaging to the plants during the time of blooming and fruit development and can prevent the tree from fruiting.

But even a few weeks before blooming, high temperatures can make the plant focus its energy on leafy growth which will also prevent you from getting the harvest you desire.

Your plants will not appreciate it being too cold either, and this will vary depending on the type of fruit and even the variety.

Here are the lowest temperatures acceptable for some types of citrus, but it’s best to check your specific variety as well:

Remember, the floor will be colder at night than whatever the reading on your thermometer shows.

Try covering the floor with black or white plastic mulch to increase the temperature.

If your fruit tree is in a pot, you can warm it up with straw bales, burlap, or other breathable insulating materials.

WHEN YOU SHOP for food—whether produce or meat or eggs—and see a label that says “organic,” what do you think that means? At its most fundamental level, I guess I always thought it meant vegetables grown on the fields of an organic farm—like, in the soil, or animals raised in its pastures.

But increasingly, as hydroponics have become more widespread, soil isn’t always part of the organic food-raising equation.

Today’s guest is Linley Dixon, a Colorado-based organic farmer who is also co-director of the Real Organic Project, an advocacy organization of farmers who grow in the soil and together seek to protect the integrity of the organic label’s meaning on food. Real Organic Project is holding a daylong conference Oct.14 in Hudson, N.Y., with a great lineup of presenters from the organic community, and we’ll hear about that, too. 

Read along as you listen to the Oct. 2, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

the real organic project, with linley dixon

 

 

Margaret Roach: Hi, Linley, thanks for coming in from the greenhouses and the fields to help and talk to me about this. Thank you.

Linley Dixon: Hi, Margaret. I’ve been a long time fan of the podcast and your writings.

Margaret: Yeah. So again, you’d think I would know these things. Having been a vegetarian most of my life and having been a consumer of organic products forever and ever and so forth, you’d think I would certainly be alerted. But until talking to you over recent years, I really didn’t understand the distinctions. And this is something that’s not just for vegetables and herbs and so forth, but for pasture-raised animals, for even blueberries—blueberries can be done without soil. And so tell us a little about what Real Organic Project is, and what the foundation of it is, and how it got started. What was the impetus?

Linley: Sure. Proud to do it. At its heart, it’s a farmer-led movement. So I’m the co-director with Vermont tomato farmer that you may know of because he’s closer to you, Dave Chapman. He’s probably one of the best organic tomato farmers in the country. And he grows tomatoes under about 2-1/2 acres of these Dutch-style glass greenhouses in the soil, which you have to differentiate now. You didn’t have to under the Organic Standard. But in recent years—and he was the one that started to notice this because he really does sell a lot of wholesale—he was competing with tomatoes that sort of tasteless and mealy and found out that they were hydroponic.

And he thought, “Well, that’s a mistake.” And I actually met him when he had raised the issue with a bunch of other farmers, mostly in New England, but it was spreading across the country that hydroponics was being allowed. And when you’re an organic farmer, you’re pretty much all consumed with the health of your soil. And so this really struck a chord with a lot of farmers across the country. So I met him at these meetings where we were trying to reform the organic program and make sure that organic stayed focused on soil health.

Margaret: Right. Because as an organic gardener for decades, and in my writing and in my thinking, I think of that what you just said. I think of “feed the soil, not the plant,” that I’m building soil health, and that’s the foundation from whom all blessings flow. You know what I mean? That’s the basis of the whole food chain, the whole life chain, so to speak. So it surprises me that growing hydroponically would be organic. So the organic standard was what from the mid-’90s or something, the national standards-

Linley: They wrote the law, the Organic Foods Production Act in 1990, but it took 10 years to actually create standards based on that law, and it was a very democratic, farmer-led process. And so there were a lot of skeptical farmers at the beginning, because the USDA hasn’t always loved or supported organic, and they were nervous to hand it over to them. But because the process included this idea of a National Organic Standards Board and there was going to be a lot of stakeholder feedback in the process, the farmers got on board. And it was in 2000 that they started implementing to kind of the national standard. Of course, there were always these, and I’m sure in your area it’s the NOFAs and the MOFGAs, but there’s out west the CCOF; they all had their own standards. And the idea was to have kind of a standard across the nation that was the same.

To make a long story short, I think all the farmers came together around the hydroponic issue. But there were problems from the very beginning, where the USDA didn’t really enforce the standards, even though the law is a really good standard, the enforcement was lacking from the very beginning, mostly around getting animals out on pasture. I mean, they were certifying these big chicken barns. And it’s to the point where when you allow a lower standard, it really drives out the higher standard, just because under the same label, it’s a cheaper method of production.

Margaret: Right. Of course. Of course. And so what you just hinted at is that this isn’t just hydroponic versus in the soil for plants, it’s also animals raised in barns, in buildings, essentially, enclosed, that are not pasture-raised. And so for those of us who love going to the local providers where we live and seeing it says that—I mean, the words used to be things like “free-range” or whatever, but it’ll say “pasture-fed” or whatever it says that makes you always think, “Oh, that’s better.” You are willing to pay the premium price because you can visualize that. And this, even though some of these animals, and the eggs from chickens, and some of the meats and so forth can be labeled organic, the animals were not living in that imagined idyllic for condition at all [laughter]. And yet they’re organic.

Linley: And many people are surprised that we became an add-on standard. It’s like if it’s gone so wrong, why would we require organic certification first? But what we see with these other terms, like you mentioned, things like pasture or animal welfare, it’s like if you don’t have a standard—it’s happening to “regenerative” right now—then it just gets so easily co-opted. So there actually is a really good law in place. And so the idea of creating a standard would be the hope is to actually apply pressure for reform so that we can save all this work that really farmers have worked on over the course of their lifetime.

Margaret: So you’re a farmer, you’ve been an organic farmer, you’re in Colorado, you raise vegetables. How big is your farm and how long have you been doing it? Any specialties? Is there anything that you’re just a super-expert in [laughter]?

Linley: Well, Dave and I hit it off because we’re both tomato farmers at our core. I mean, he started with oxen and every vegetable you can imagine, and really specialized in tomatoes. But we still have many different crops on our farm. But Dave actually mentored me in the last five years for how to grow tomatoes better in a greenhouse. And it really changed the economics of our farm. And it’s something that I think anybody can do actually if they learn a few little techniques, even as a home gardener, things like grafting or even just trellising so that you’re harvesting at eye level, that transforms really the ease of how to produce tomatoes, and then also just whether or not they rot on the ground or on the plants. If they split, you really can get double the yield pretty easily with some basic techniques.

Margaret: So you said greenhouse and before when you were talking about Dave Chapman’s operation, you said greenhouse or you said… Actually you didn’t call it greenhouses, you call-

Linley: Glass greenhouses.

Margaret: Glass greenhouses, right. And so just again, so people visualize, we’re talking about on top of soil, so it’s to control other factors. And tomatoes in particular I think have a lot of issues—as we all know, who grow them [laughter]—with fungal diseases and soil splash and spores moving up the ladder of the leaves from the bottom to the top, and all kinds of things. And I’m totally oversimplifying, but in the more controlled environment that you’re describing, and it could even be a high tunnel, I suppose, a simple, not-greenhouse-but-greenhouse, we can control a little more of that. And more and more farmers have gone to that, and even some of my garden friends have gone to that at least trying to minimize some of the havoc. The havoc.

Linley: Even something as simple as grafting will double your yields, and that you can actually do. I do it with a little Johnny’s stand where there’s a tent that goes over the seedling stand. And so some of these techniques are actually pretty easy to adapt on your own gardens.

Margaret: So you’re grafting the tomato, the variety of tomato, you wish to eat, to harvest, onto a rootstock that is sturdier and more resistant to problems. Is that what you’re doing?

Linley: Resistant to problems, but also just meant to grow really big and strong.

Margaret: O.K. So both.

Linley: So the roots just get a much bigger area in the soil.

Margaret: Right. So as a longtime organic farmer—and we both agreed that “feed the soil, not the plant” is the foundation of organic agriculture, whether in a garden setting or a farm setting. But are there other things that you would say to this audience listening who are home gardeners principally, that are the foundational principles that you follow that work for you? Whether the littler hints, like the specific one you just spoke about, say grafting, or that you’re growing in a greenhouse, but other things that you think are really foundational to success in organic growing?

Linley: Yeah. Dave always told me it’s not any one tip, but it’s the culmination of all of my knowledge that makes this all work. But one that really stuck with me is he taught me to actually use my compost applications by applying them every two to three weeks from a bucket [above]. Just sprinkle the compost right on top of the drip lines (that’s how we irrigate our tomatoes, because of all that soil splash). Do that instead of adding all the compost at the beginning of the season, which might create an anaerobic environment depending on how hot your compost is, but really just sprinkle it on top of the drip lines. Every couple of weeks creates an even release from the compost of nutrients. I remember Eliot Coleman, who’s an advisor to our project, and I got to meet him. He gave me the very best definition of organic farming that I’ve ever heard, and it was so simple, so it just really stuck.

He said that “organic farming is as simple as adding organic matter to the soil.” And I mean, that’s just says it all. because if that’s happening, you’re mitigating the need for any of these outside fertilizers and even pest control, because if you’re paying attention to the soil organic matter really locks up and slow-releases nutrients. So that way, I am sure you’ve noticed, Margaret, if you apply too much nitrogen, the aphids come, the insects come. So that attention to how much, how slowly those nutrients are released, that is the prevention that organic farmers…

And there’s some insurance in that organic matter that it’ll be released over time. So you have a lot more flexibility. You can get things wrong in the organic matter, kind of changes it for you so it ends up working out correctly. I think that definition, if you can keep that in mind, I mean it’s organic farming, the farming of carbon. Organic chemistry is the chemistry of carbon. So thinking about all of that organic matter, that’s what organic farming is.

Margaret: So Eliot Coleman, you said, and he’s an advisor to Real Organic Project, and a lot of us gardeners know him from his really important books, one of the early voices for organic, not just farming-

Linley: For gardening.

Margaret: Yes, exactly. And to tell us about his tactics. And so he wrote really, really important works and has been an inspiration to many over the years. So no surprise that he’s on board with this.

So you said you just used the phrase “paying attention,” and not in the same way I’m going to ask you about it. But I also think that’s one of the things is that—and I use the expression “you can’t set it and forget it”—when you are the steward of living things, you can’t just stick them in the ground or sow the seed and then walk away and go back at harvest time [laughter]. I think vigilance is another really important skill and tactic of an organic grower, especially who’s not going to be able to rush in with some “remedy,” some chemical remedy, if things start to go off. But watching I think is really important. And I assume that you have a vigilance practice-

Linley: You do-

Margaret: … at the farm.

Linley: … or you get in trouble, right?

Margaret: Yes. So to me, that’s another one of the things.

Linley: I think scale is an interesting issue in organic. They’ve never really limited scale, but I think inherently it is scale-limiting because we talk of as farmers, the eyes-to-acres ratio. You can’t let the acreage get so big that if you’re a conventional farm and you miss a pest outbreak in the corner of a field 100 miles away or 100 acres away, you’re all right, you can just go get a spray for that pest. But as an organic farmer, you don’t have that as kind of an easy fix, so you do, you have to check.

We actually had a whitefly outbreak this year and we’ve never had that. And you’ve got to catch it early and they can take out an entire crop. And so we’ve got bio-control that is part of that process. You put little sticky tape over the areas or right in the regions where you see the outbreak, and you have to get on it early. Because we actually have different greenhouses, and some of them are hoop houses and in our hoop house we missed it, and it took the crop out. And in our greenhouse, we were able to catch it and use this bio-control process.

So yeah, just keeping on top of it, we don’t have that easy fix, so we lose our crop if we miss it. And that’s part of why biodiversity is so key, because if we do lose something because a particularly bad year for a pest, then really, our business doesn’t depend on needing a spray. We can just let that crop go, and it’s a good year for something else.

Margaret: Right. Yeah. So, I mean, tomatoes, it sounds like you’ve upped the game and you’ve figured out ways to get around some of the primary issues with those, I feel like… Are there other crops that are important ones in your offerings or is that the primary driver of the business?

Linley: That’s the one that certainly makes it all work, financially. But I am experimenting because in the greenhouses you can’t grow your own fertility, we really depend on compost for our fertility. But out in the fields, I’ve been experimenting lately with how to have our aisles so that they’re creating the fertility for the rows fcompostAnd that’s been really fun to watch, because what’s happened is the aisles have expanded a little bit more, and our whole cropping technique has changed. And what we do is we mow the aisles into the rows and then we’ll incorporate that “green manure” is what farmers call it, that kind of cover crop.

We incorporate that into the rows, but you don’t want to mow them all at once because you want some of them to flower. And the bio-control that comes in on the flowering weeds from the aisles is pretty awesome to watch.

So as long as you can keep that biology cycling, that’s something that’s new on our farm that I’ve been sort of obsessed with. Because if you can grow your own fertility on the farm, then you don’t have to worry about any… You bring stuff in off the farm and it might have herbicide carryover, or there are environmental issues with where it was harvested or mined. So it’s kind of the highest level of environmental stewardship is if you can figure out how to grow your own fertility on the farm. And I haven’t perfected it. I don’t know if I ever will, but it’s been fun to try.

Margaret: That’s interesting. So you’re in a sense growing some of your cover crops, as you say, in the aisles in between the rows where you or machines-

Linley: Walk.

Margaret: … would walk or drive. Interesting.

Linley: It’s beautiful because then the tractor wheels are always going over pasture on bare dirt, so there’s resiliency there. But you also don’t lose any space really to grow that fertility because it’s actually where you’re walking anyway, and you don’t have to weed it too. That’s a beautiful thing.

Margaret: Interesting. So in doing the Real Organic Project, do you find that when you have events—like you’re having one actually not far from me in Columbia County New York in mid-October, which has a great lineup of speakers and so forth. But do you find that when you go out and you present and talk to people about Real Organic Project, are there some astonished? Is it the same couple of questions every time, or the same aghast looks [laughter] about the same aspect of it?

Because for me, one of the things was, and I mentioned it at the very beginning quickly, the fact that blueberries were being grown hydroponically—I mean, even woody plants, do you know what I mean? Even shrubs. Because to me, speaking of beneficial insects and having an environment, a biodiverse environment, I mean, blueberries, wow. Those are some of my helper plants here in the garden. They attract pollinators and they just do all kinds of good things besides making blueberries [laughter].

 

Linley: Yeah. They live probably 40, 50 years. But we have an amazing podcast. And so everybody is in a different level of understanding of these issues. And so I would recommend listening to that podcast if you’re confused by this and want to understand it better. And Hugh Kent, who’s a blueberry farmer, he has a couple of them. His most recent was a talk at Eco Farm, and actually if you can watch that one, because you can see his slides, it’s pretty shocking the environmental impact of these hydroponic farms. And they’re really plastic, on plastic, on plastic, these big sandwiches, and all the fertility is coming in.

And then the plants are done in four to five years, the entire plastic farm gets thrown out, and then they start it over again. So the environmental impact is pretty severe, and it’ll help you understand the way an organic farmer thinks. We interview a lot of farmers, but there’s chefs and authors on there, too. It just helps you think more holistically how organic farmers are thinking about their farm. And it might help you understand why things like grazing and soil health are so important to us.

Margaret: Yeah. So you have, what, maybe 1,200 farms who are members of the Real Organic Project at this point all in different areas of the country, is that right?

Linley: Yeah. And these are farmers that are agreeing to another inspection on top of the USDA inspection that’s part of this program. So that’s pretty astonishing to see how quickly it’s grown in such a short time. Farmers get this, they understand the need for this. [Below, the USDA organic label, and the Real Organic Project one each require a separate inspection.]

Margaret: I wanted to ask you more about that. So I think at the conference in October, you are going to do one of the presentations, and I think you’re going to talk about kind of what sets these member farmers apart and how can consumers support them, and support the work of this organization. So tell us a little bit about the highlight reel of that part of the conference.

Linley: Yeah. I think most people would just want to hear what we’re ensuring if you look for this sticker. And so we did talk about the soil health and pasturing, but we also ensure that the whole farm is meeting those organic, those higher organic practices, because there is a lot of fraud that happens when you have a split operation, when you have some conventional production and some organic. And one of the biggest ones, there was just a few acres of organic production that had an organic seal, and then a lot of conventional stuff went through that organic certificate. So the whole farm needs to be organic.

There are worker welfare protections. So this is really just kind of pushing the bar forward. Really when the farmers stopped being involved and just handed it over to the USDA, that whole concept of continuous improvement under the seal that we really had with our regional chapters went away. So we’re just trying to bring that back, and continue to improve over time.

Margaret: And non-farmers—how do consumers engage with Real Organic Project? I mean, I assume it’s a nonprofit, so you probably have donors, and do people just attend your events and support these farmers and-

Linley: We’ve got this great website, so visit the website. You can see the conference that’s at Churchtown Dairy on October 14th, first thing. And then we’re actually releasing a new website in about a month, but you can go now. There’s a ton of videos, podcasts, the letters. We have something called Real Friends where it’s a book club, but part of this group is to ask eaters to help the farmers along. And that might mean just telling your friends about your favorite podcast episodes, or going to your co-op and saying, “Do you have any Real Organic products?” So that hopefully your farmers locally can get a little bit of an edge because they’re really having trouble getting markets and the price point is so low, so you can help them out by requesting real organic products in your stores too.

Margaret: You’re in Colorado, and what zone are you technically, where you farm?

Linley: Oh gosh, there are so many microclimates. So I would say we’re a 6-something, but it depends on the year, and climate changes creating all kinds of changes.

Margaret: It is. It is.

Linley: So I don’t even know anymore.

Margaret: Yeah. So you talked about tomatoes. So are you winding down your season or do you do off season crops as well? Do you have-

Linley: So the funny thing here is actually it doesn’t get really in the single digits as far as cold, but our season’s really short, because we’re high elevation. So we got our first frost probably this weekend. It’s always around the third week of September. And our last frost is, oh gosh, in the middle of June sometimes. So we have about a 90-day window, which is wow.

Margaret: Wow!

Linley: And we get these kind of passing hailstorms too because that’s what happens in the mountains. So that’s why I have all of these different levels of tunnels. And even out in the field, we have a lot of Reemay and ways to protect the crops on the field.

Margaret: Interesting. Well, Linley Dixon, co-director of the Real Organic Project, thank you for giving us a 101 on this subject. Very, very counterintuitive to think that organic doesn’t mean grown in the soil, but thanks for alerting us to that. And I hope I’ll talk to you again soon.

Linley: Thank you so much, Margaret,

prefer the podcast version of the show?

MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Oct. 2, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

It’s like a game of musical chairs, but for shrubs. And Japanese spireas are never sore losers. They’re tough, resilient, and easy to care for. Even through all the digging up and replanting, my Japanese spirea shrubs never hold a grudge.

If you’re looking for a plant that’s as forgiving as it is beautiful, you’ve come to the right place.

This species belongs to the large Spiraea genus and you can read more about them in our comprehensive growing guide. Here I’ll be focusing solely on how to grow Spiraea japonica.

Buckle up, fellow garden enthusiasts; we’re about to dive into the wonderfully adaptable world of Japanese spirea!

Here’s what I’ll cover:

Ready to learn all about this shrub? Let’s go!

What Is Japanese Spirea?

Japanese spirea, S. japonica, is a flowering deciduous shrub. Native to Japan and China, this plant has made itself at home and become a garden favorite here in the United States and Canada.

It’s a member of the Spiraea genus within the Rosaceae family. This plant sometimes goes by the common name Japanese meadowsweet.

Japanese spirea is sometimes confused with other plants in the Spiraea genus, including S. alba and S. tomentosa. However, its unique leaf shape, corymb structure, plus flower size and colors set it apart.

There are a number of hybrids and cultivars of Japanese spirea available, each with its own unique characteristics. Like other spireas, this species is hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 8.

It’s a versatile little number, growing two to six feet high and up to seven feet wide. With an upright and broadly mounded form, Japanese spirea creates dense thickets of thin, wiry stems.

The plant is drought-tolerant once established and blooms in early summer with white, pink, or purple flowers that attract butterflies and other pollinators. It’s often the last of the spirea bushes to bloom each year.

At its peak, Japanese spirea boasts a lush display of lustrous green leaves in different shades of golds and greens, one to three inches long, with serrate margins.

The wiry, freely branching, erect stems are brown to reddish-brown, adding to its visual appeal.

In fall, the leaves change color to gold, orange, or red. In winter, the plant will lose its leaves, but still manages to look fabulous with its erect habit and snow-catching branchlets. Come spring, it’s back in action as a riot of color with new leaves and flowers.

Cultivation and History

Japanese spirea was introduced to the United States in the late 19th century, most likely sometime between 1870 and 1890, as an ornamental plant.

It quickly gained popularity in gardens and landscapes thanks to its hardiness, adaptability, and aesthetic appeal. It has naturalized in North America from New England down through the Appalachians, into Tennessee, Georgia, and Indiana, and in parts of Canada.

However, its rapid spread and ability to outcompete native vegetation has become a concern in some areas of the country.

In the United States, Japanese spirea has been identified as invasive in several states, particularly in the Mid-Atlantic region. It thrives in a variety of habitats, including meadows, open woodland areas, and along waterways.

The plant’s invasive nature is attributed to its prolific seed production and fast growth rate, which allows it to quickly colonize new areas, displacing native flora in the process.

To mitigate the invasive spread of Japanese spirea, mechanical removal and herbicide treatments are commonly recommended by management authorities. For those who still wish to include this plant in their gardens, selecting sterile, non-invasive cultivars is advised.

I’ll cover a few specifics later on, but some sterile cultivars include ‘Crispa,’ ‘Dart’s Red,’ ‘Neon Flash,’ and those in the Double Play® series.

Japanese Spirea Propagation

Japanese spirea reproduces easily in the wild. One plant is capable of producing hundreds of seeds that can remain viable in the soil for years.

Growing the species plant from seed is easy, but this doesn’t mean it’s the best method of propagation. It could take two years or more for the plant to reach a desirable size for your landscape design.

You can collect seeds from your own plants or purchase from online distributors. Note that seeds collected from hybrids and cultivated varieties may be sterile and will not grow true to the parent plant.

Place seeds between layers of damp paper towel until they sprout, then transfer the sprouted seeds to soil. Or simply surface sow and keep them moist until they sprout.

In commercial cultivation, this shrub is often propagated via softwood cuttings. These cuttings can be rooted during the summer. Additionally, hardwood cuttings can be rooted in the fall.

Another method, known as layering, involves pegging down a branch in the spring and potting it up in the fall once roots are established.

To learn more about propagating spirea from cuttings and via layering, visit our guide.

Spireas produce suckers. You can dig up these suckers and nurture them as individual plants.

It’s also possible to divide an established spirea in the spring or fall to propagate new plants. In my own experience, dividing is a little risky.

I’ve divided my own Japanese spireas with about an 85 percent success rate. Divisions, including the parent plant, can become weakened in the process, and they always need time to bounce back, so proceed with caution.

You can learn more about how to divide perennials in our guide.

The quickest and most reliable method for busy home gardeners, however, is to purchase a potted Japanese spirea plant from a reputable grower and transplant it into your garden.

Purchasing a container-grown shrub not only ensures that you know what you’re getting – as propagating from cuttings and layering does – but the young shrub will be a few years older, healthy, and prepped for success.

I’ll give you some tips on where to purchase later, but first let’s take a look at the transplanting process.

Transplanting

Before you grab your shovel, let’s stop for a moment and talk about spacing. This shrub can grow up to seven feet wide at maturity, so give it some room to spread.

Plan for three to six feet between your new shrub and its plant neighbors. Check the nursery tag for specific spacing requirements.

Spireas are easy to transplant. Start by digging a hole as deep as your shrub’s root ball and about twice as wide.

Although these shrubs can tolerate poor soil conditions, why not try to give them their best shot at a healthy life?

If you happen to have some organic material like compost or well-rotted manure on hand, add a scoop into the planting hole. If you don’t have it, no big deal! Proceed without it.

If you’re transplanting a potted Japanese spirea shrub, remove it from its container and inspect the roots. Loosen pot bound roots and trim any that look unhealthy or damaged.

In the case of a bare root shrub, inspect it carefully and trim any damaged or diseased roots before planting. Then make a small mound in the bottom of the hole to support the roots.

Place the plant into the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. If your shrub has bare roots, gently spread the roots out over the mounded soil.

Next, backfill the hole with soil, gently tamping it down as you go to eliminate air pockets around the roots. Once the plant is securely in place, give it a good watering to help settle the soil.

Add a layer of mulch, about an inch or two thick, on top of the root zone to retain moisture. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the stems. If mulch sits against the stems it can encourage disease.

How to Grow Japanese Spirea

Now that you know just how easy it is to transplant a Japanese spirea, let’s discuss everything this shrub needs to grow to its full potential.

When it comes to soil, S. japonica is generally a forgiving plant. It thrives best in moist, well-drained soils but can tolerate dry sites as well.

While the soil pH should ideally be lightly acidic to neutral – between 6.0 and 7.0 – Japanese spirea is not overly picky and can even tolerate slightly alkaline conditions.

I will note that if you’re dealing with highly alkaline soils, you might notice some chlorosis, or yellowing of the leaves. Test your soil and amend accordingly if you notice this abnormal discoloration.

Well-rotted manure also makes a good fertilizer while supporting and improving soil health at the same time. Add a scoop to the soil at the base of each shrub in the spring and your plants will love you for it!

When it comes to watering, this bush is moderately drought-tolerant once established, but it does appreciate consistent moisture, especially during dry spells. In the absence of regular rainfall, you’ll need to supplement with watering.

That said, spirea is not a fan of waterlogged conditions, so well-drained soil is key.

A good rule of thumb is to water deeply and then allow the top two inches of soil to dry out between waterings.

This approach encourages deeper root growth, making the plant more resilient in the long run. So, no need to hover with the hose; this shrub’s got a laid-back attitude about hydration.

One last note about watering: deciduous shrubs like spirea go dormant in winter. During this time, plants don’t require as much water as they do during the growing season. But should you water at all?

If you live in a Zone where the ground freezes, refrain from watering during dormancy, as this may damage the roots.

Only water if the temperature is above 40°F (4°C). If conditions are dry, check your soil and if necessary, give your shrubs some water. This might be once or twice a month.

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a newbie with a green thumb, S. japonica offers a lot of flexibility.

It’s like that easy-going friend who’s happy to hang out wherever, whenever. We could all use more friends like Japanese spirea, couldn’t we?

Just give it some sun, a bit of space, and it’ll reward you with a vibrant display from spring to fall. All in all, Japanese spireas are relatively low maintenance. I don’t know about you, but I’ll take it!

Growing Tips

• Choose a location with full sun to part shade.
• Plant in well-draining soil.
• Fertilize sparingly in spring with well-rotted manure or a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
• Water when the soil is dry two inches down and be careful not to overwater.

Pruning and Maintenance

Japanese spirea grows naturally in a somewhat rounded shape. In my experience, however, it can become a little wild and unruly at times. If you want to tame the beast, consider pruning.

If you want to keep your spirea compact, you can opt to trim the whole shrub back more aggressively. You can cut the whole plant back by 30 percent, or you can take it all the way to the ground.

Just remember that you should only attempt this while the plant is dormant in late winter or early spring.

If you’re dramatically reducing the size of your shrub, it will need some time to recover.

Avoid this option in times of severe drought as it will place unnecessary stress on your plant as it attempts to recover, and remember to maintain consistent moisture.

Read our guide to pruning spirea for full details.

Another maintenance point to consider is mulching. Mulching serves a dual purpose: it helps retain soil moisture and suppresses weeds.

This not only keeps the soil moist but also adds a neat, finished look to your planting area, and adds protection for the roots in extreme cold winters.

Visit our guide for more details about caring for your spirea during the winter.

You can also add a fresh layer of mulch in the spring to give your garden a tidy appearance and prepare it for the growing season.

I always recommend a holistic first approach when dealing with insects and disease in the garden. This begins with preventative practices including good hygiene and sanitation, proper watering methods, and biodiversity to encourage beneficial predatory insects.

Let’s take a look at some common pests and diseases that might damage your shrub:

Insects

It’s important to remember that insects can be responsible for introducing disease-causing pathogens, so knowing what to watch out for is key to keeping your plants healthy.

Here are the main insects to be aware of:

Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that are known for sucking plant sap. The spirea aphid, Aphis citricola, is the particular species that targets spirea plants.

When aphids attack, they cause the leaves to curl, and can also lead to the development of sooty mold due to their secretion of honeydew.

To control aphids, you can use sprays of insecticidal soap or neem oil. Biological controls like the introduction of ladybugs can also be effective in keeping aphid populations in check.

Learn more about how to manage aphids in our guide.

Leaf Rollers

Leaf rollers are actually caterpillars, the larvae of tortrix moths, and they use leaves as a form of protection, rolling them around themselves while they feed.

This causes the leaves to curl and can eventually lead to defoliation if not addressed.

To manage leaf rollers, an insecticide containing the beneficial bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) can be effective.

Biological control methods also include the introduction of natural predators like tachinid flies, ichneumonid wasps, lacewing larvae, and assassin bugs. Manual removal is also an option if you prefer a hands-on approach.

Scale

Scale insects are small and immobile, attaching themselves to the stems and leaves of plants. They suck sap from the plant, which can weaken it and lead to the yellowing of leaves.

To treat scale, horticultural oils can be effective, especially when applied during the insects’ mobile crawler stage.

Natural predators like parasitic wasps and lady beetles can also help to reduce scale populations. Manual removal is an option, along with pruning of heavily infested stems.

Learn more about scale insects in our guide.

Disease

There are a few diseases that can target your Japanese spirea. Let’s investigate symptoms and treatment options.

Gray Mold

Gray mold, caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, is a disease that can affect various parts of the Japanese spirea plant, including stems, buds, flowers, and leaves.

The disease manifests as a grayish web of mycelium on the affected tissue, especially when humidity is high. Symptoms may vary depending on the plant parts attacked and growing conditions.

To manage gray mold, it’s crucial to control the environment by avoiding overhead watering, improving air circulation, and applying fungicides as needed.

Deadheading spent flowers and removing all infected plant tissue are also recommended.

Fireblight

Fireblight is a bacterial disease caused by Erwinia amylovora, commonly affecting apples, pears, and related species like Japanese spirea. The disease manifests as wilting and blackening of leaves, making them appear as if scorched by fire.

One of the most characteristic symptoms is the curling of affected shoots into “shepherd’s crooks.”

To manage fireblight, it’s essential to prune out infected branches, ideally during winter dormancy.

Bactericidal sprays like copper sulfate can be used during the bloom period, and if you’re dealing with a heavily infected plant it’s best to remove it from your garden and dispose of it in the trash to avoid any potential spread.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that manifests as white to gray powdery spots or blotches on the leaves, stems, and buds of the Japanese spirea.

The disease is often most severe on young leaves and green shoots. While it doesn’t significantly harm the health of the plant, it can affect its appearance.

To manage powdery mildew, consider cultural control practices like planting in full sun and removal and disposal of fallen leaves. Proper spacing and avoiding excessive fertilization can also help in controlling the disease.

Learn more about how to treat powdery mildew in our guide.

Root Rot

Root rot in Japanese spirea can be caused by fungi such as Phymatotrichopsis omnivorum and water molds in the Phytopthora genus.

Root rot is most prevalent in soils that are poorly draining, compacted, and in locations where water collects and stands. It can be compounded when exposed to high summer temperatures.

Symptoms often appear from June through September when soil temperatures reach their peak. Affected plants may display wilted leaves that turn brown but remain attached.

The roots of infected plants will become severely decayed and may be covered by a fuzzy, tan-colored mold.

Chemical treatments have not been successful in controlling an advanced case of root rot.

Prevention is key, so choose the planting location wisely. If root rot takes over, you should remove and dispose of the affected plant. Avoid planting the same species in the same location.

Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium wilt is a soil-borne disease caused by the fungi Verticillium albo-atrum and V. dahliae. It can affect a wide range of plants, including Japanese spirea. The fungi infect the plant through the roots and disrupt water and nutrient flow.

The disease manifests as wilting, yellowing, and browning of the leaves, often starting on one side of the plant. As the disease progresses, entire branches may die back.

Management of verticillium wilt is challenging once a plant is infected. If infection occurs, pruning out affected branches can help manage the disease, but it’s difficult to eradicate entirely.

The best approach is preventative. Sanitize garden tools, encourage good soil and plant health via moisture management and air circulation, and avoid planting susceptible species in previously infected areas of your garden.

Best Uses for Japanese Spirea

Japanese spirea is a “jack-of-all-trades” – versatile, durable, and oh-so-charming.

With a plethora of cultivars to choose from, you’re not just adding another plant to your garden – you’re adding a personality!

But it’s not only about its personality; this shrub is a multitasker. Use it as a border to define your garden spaces or as a foundation planting to give your home that welcoming, lived-in look.

It’s also a favorite for mass plantings and specimen focal points, where its seasonal changes – from spring’s first buds to fall’s fiery hues – can truly shine. 

And let’s not forget the winter interest; even when the leaves have fallen, the intricate branching pattern adds a touch of drama to a snowy landscape.

So go ahead, let your creativity run wild and make Japanese spirea the star of your garden stage!

Weeds that grow in grass and are usually called burgrass or Sandspurs are called sandbur. The weed is so poisonous that 46 states have listed it as a noxious weed. The plant is in the Poaceae family, and early in the year it looks like normal grass. Later on, it turns into the stinky plant that we all know and hate.

Most of the time, sandbur can be found in the southern United States and in some states, like Northern California and Washington, DC. Perennial Sandburs, a type of sandbur that lives through the winter, have been found in Texas, Oklahoma, and New Mexico, and they are hard to control.

Sandburs can grow in almost any kind of soil, but they do best in dry, sandy areas, which is where they get their name. The grass starts to grow in the spring and stays there all summer and fall until the first frost kills it.

Sandspur Non-Chemical Control

If you want to use cultural or non-chemical ways to control weeds, you need to keep up with regular lawn care. This means cutting it down, watering it, and feeding it the right way. The first thing you should do is try to get a thick, healthy yard. Sandspur will grow less if you make your lawn denser.

This is because the weed will have a harder time competing with the grass for room and sunlight. If there are empty spots in the grass, sandspur can grow and do well there. If you mow your sandspur-infested yard, the seed heads won’t be able to grow, which will make it less likely that it will come back next year.

If you fertilize your yard the right way, it will grow a healthy canopy that is thick enough to keep weeds out.

Sandspur Chemical Control

Chemicals can be used to get rid of sandspur, and there are choices for both pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. As the name suggests, a pre-emergent kills weeds before they sprout and show up in your yard. Post-emergents, on the other hand, are things that kill weeds that are already there.

Post-Emergent Control Of Sandspur

Celsius WG by Bayer is one of the best post-emergent weed killers for sandspur. It contains Thiencarbazone-methyl, Iodosulfuron-methyl-sodium, and Dicamba, which are the active chemicals. With a backpack sprayer, this product can be used as a broad application or a spot treatment. Compared to other pesticides, it is less likely to hurt turfgrasses when temperatures are high.

How To Kill Sand Spurs In 6 Easy And Best Ways

Step 1 – Pull Out The Sand Spurs By Hand

This is the first thing that needs to be done to get rid of these thorny weeds. This is what you should do if you see small areas of weeds in your yard or lawn.

But this step might not work as well if this weed is already growing like crazy in your yard. To get rid of this plant from big areas, use a mower.​

The plants have sharp spines that can cut you if you try to pull them out by hand. Wear thick yard gloves to protect your hands.

To make the job easier, you can water the area a little before you pull these plants out. Put the weeds and dried thorns in the brown bags so they are safe.

Step 2 – Use A Mower With A Clipper Catcher On The Bigger Infestation Areas.

If the growth is too much for you to pull out by hand, you should use a mower. It helps you save a lot of time and work.

The built-in catcher will take care of collecting the mowed sand spurs, so you won’t have to. This is a pretty good way to keep sand spurs from growing back.

A mower with a waste collector costs a lot. But if you want to buy a lawn mower, spend that extra dollar on one that has a bag for collecting grass clippings.

It will definitely be a good buy because it will help you mow your lawn regularly and pull weeds.

Step 3 – Have A Regular Watering And Mowing Routine

Please do everything you can to keep sand spurs from coming back after you get rid of them. If you water this weed often, it will not grow as much because it likes it dry and hot.

They don’t want to go into damp, cool places. By watering your yard regularly, you will give it the water it needs and stop weeds from growing.

If you have time, cut the grass every day or once a week. This will not only stop these weeds from growing, but it will also help you spot any new growth so you can get rid of it right away.

Generally, you should mow your yard every week so that the grass is no longer than 4 inches long.

Step 4 – Use Fertilizers With Nitrogen

Low-nitrogen soil makes it easy for sand spurs to grow. The growth of these annoying invaders can be stopped by adding more nitrogen to the soil.

For every 1000 square feet of yard, you should use one pound of nitrogen fertilizer. This will feed the grass and keep sand spurs away.

In the spring, when these weeds are starting to grow, you can fertilize your yard. To stop these weeds from growing, you could also think about putting down organic mulch.

Step 5 – Use An Eco-Friendly Herbicide – Corn Gluten Meal Herbicide

For killing sand spur seeds before they sprout, corn gluten meal is a great organic pre-emergent pesticide. That being said, you should be very careful about when you apply.

Once sand spur weeds have grown roots, it is not possible to get rid of them. During the summer, they are mostly used. When using this pesticide, you need to be extra careful, and you shouldn’t plant any seeds right after you put it down.

Use a rotating spreader to spread the corn gluten mean herbicide out evenly. For every 1000 square feet of land, 20 pounds of the meal pesticide would work great.

Step 6 – Post-Emergent Herbicide – The Last Resort

If you’ve ever dealt with weeds, you know that they get tough to most treatments over time. If the sand spurs still get into your landscaping after you’ve done all of the above, you will have to use a post-emergent pesticide.

This is a pretty strong solution that will get rid of this weed completely, but it might hurt other plants that are growing near it. Don’t spray them on other plants, then.

Conclusion

We have put together the best ways to get rid of these bugs so you don’t have to look for them all over the place. These tips will help you see weeds coming up before it’s too late. To quickly go over the things that need to be done to get rid of these weeds:

• Make sure you take care of your lawn regularly.
• Sand spurs will not grow if you water your lawn often.
• On-time fertilization
• Stop fell sand spur seeds from sprouting.
• If the growth has gotten out of hand, spray pesticides on it.
• A well-known saying goes, “Prevention is better than cure.” These weeds are the same way. It spreads really quickly once they find a place to live.

As a result of this, it is in your best interest to keep them from coming near you. Taking care of your environment on time will help a lot with this problem. Furthermore, you wouldn’t have to feel bad about using pesticides or worry about getting hurt.

When the pH of the soil decreases, it may damage the health of plants. A substance that has calcium and/or magnesium in it is used to raise the pH of soil. The most popular way to raise the pH of soil is to add something that has lime in it, but baking soda or eggshells are also good options.

It is important to measure pH because plants need the right pH to absorb nutrients and grow. This is an important part of keeping a yard healthy. A pH level between 6.0 and 7.5 is good for most plants, but you should check the specific plant’s pH needs before you start growing it.

To grow plants successfully, you need to know what the pH levels of the soil are and if you need to make any changes. There are many common compounds that can be added to soil to change its pH. Once the pH is right, plants should be healthy and produce food.

What Affects The pH Of Soil?

The main thing that affects the pH value of soil is the stuff that it is made from. Most of the time, soils formed from basic or alkaline rocks have a higher pH value than soils formed from acidic rocks.

When it rains, water moves through the soil and changes its pH. Usually, this makes the soil more acidic because acidic elements replace alkaline nutrients like calcium and magnesium that are washed away.

Soil can become more acidic when ammonia or urea from fertilizers is added to it or when organic matter breaks down.

How Long Does It Take To Raise Soil pH?

Baking soda is cheap because you can buy it in bulk and it works almost right away; if you use it correctly, you can see changes in the pH of the soil in less than 24 hours.

By adding baking soda to the soil to make it more alkaline, you will never hurt it or the plants that are growing in it. Other chemicals are much rougher on soil than baking soda. It can be used even while plants are growing.

You can buy stronger liming agents that will change the pH for a longer time, but they might cost more than baking soda.

Methods To Raise Soil pH

Now that you know the pH of the soil, check to see if it really is too low for the plants you want to grow. Do nothing if the pH is in the right range.

If not, here are two things you can add to the soil before planting to raise the pH:

Limestone

Calcitic lime, which is sold as yard lime or limestone, is the most common way to make soils less acidic. It is ground limestone that comes in pulverized, granular, pelletized, and hydrated forms.

Lime changes the pH of the earth more quickly when the particles are smaller. Pulverized lime works the fastest, but it can get clogged more often than granular or pelletized lime.

Hydrated lime quickly raises the pH and can be used at any time during the growing season. However, it is very reactive and should be handled with extra care because it can irritate the eyes, skin, lungs, and digestive systems.

For lime to work, it needs to be worked into the ground well and mixed with water.3 How much you use varies on the soil’s texture and the pH you want to reach. To get the same pH rise, heavy clay soils need more lime than soils that are high in organic matter and low in clay.

Dolomitic Lime

Calcium is the only mineral in calicitic lime. Dolomitic lime has a lot more magnesium, which is a micronutrient. The two materials are not different, though, in how well they reduce acidity in the soil. Most of the time, dolomitic lime is sold in the form of pellets.

Raising The Soil pH After Planting

To plant a food garden in the spring, the soil should be worked over in the fall or winter. On the other hand, you can add dolomitic lime in the early spring, late spring, and fall to established plants. 

For example, you can raise the pH of the soil to turn blue hydrangeas pink.

The same goes for putting lime on your yard. Adding lime in the summer is not a good idea unless you live somewhere that has wet summers. Lime needs water to respond, and the pH of the soil needs time to change.

Factors Affecting The pH Of Soil

What kind of rocks are in a place affects whether the soil is acidic or alkaline. Soil that is acidic is made up of granite rock, while soil that is alkaline is made up of shale or limestone.

Over time, strong rain that falls often washes away the soil’s alkaline parts, leaving it more acidic. In dry places where it doesn’t rain much, these alkaline elements stay in the soil, making it more alkaline.

Leaves and pine needles from many deciduous trees, along with other organic matter that is breaking down, can also change the pH of the soil and make it more acidic.

Summary

Changing the pH of your soil might sound scary and like something only scientists can do. But it’s not hard to raise the pH of your soil, and you can do it with easy, natural soil amendments.

Which soil additive you use in your garden will depend on how much room you have, how much time you have, and what you can easily get. If you have a hearth, wood ash might work.

If you live near the water, oyster shells might be a better choice. No matter what amendment you choose, make sure you follow the directions on the package to change the pH of your soil and grow better plants.

Frequently Asked Questions

At What pH Do Hydrangeas Turn Pink?

People know that hydrangeas have flowers that change color depending on the pH of the soil. Flowers that grow in acidic soil are blue, while flowers that grow in alkaline soil are pink or even red. The pH of your soil needs to be above 7.0 for your hydrangea flowers to turn pink.

What Is A Good pH Level For Soil?

The plants you choose to grow may affect how acidic or alkaline your soil should be. As a general rule, most yard plants do best in soil that has a pH level between 6.5 and 7.0.

What Are The Signs Of Poor Soil pH In Plants?

The pH level affects how well plants can take in nutrients. If the pH of the soil isn’t balanced, it can show signs of nutrient deficiency like grass or leaves turning yellow, growth being slowed down, leaf veining being obvious, and bad harvests.

Can I Test Soil pH Myself?

Yes, you can use simple test kits or soil tools to find out what the pH level of your soil is at home. For more exact results, though, you should send a sample of soil to the cooperative extension office in your area. These offices can not only give you accurate soil test results, but they can also tell you which soil additives are best and how much to use of each.

What happens if the soil is too alkaline?
If the soil is too alkaline, your plant might not be able to receive nutrients properly. The plant may show signs of a nutrient deficiency, like yellow leaves, slow growth, and lower harvest outputs.

Is acidic or alkaline soil better?
If you want to grow certain plants, you may need to change the pH of your soil. Most plants do best in neutral or slightly acidic soil, but this can change for each type of plant.

 

Fiddle-leaf figs are notoriously picky and need a lot of care, but they are surprisingly simple to grow from one plant to many. growing cuttings in soil, growing cuttings in water, and air layering are the three main ways to spread plants. Here is everything you need to know about these three ways to make more fiddle leaf figs.

What Is Fiddle Leaf Fig Propagation?

To make a new fiddle leaf fig plant that can live on its own, you need to take a stem or leaf cutting and let it root in water or soil.

Most flowers can be spread, though it can be hard at times. Fiddle leaf figs are actually pretty simple to grow more of.

What Time Of Year Should You Propagate Your Fiddle Leaf Fig?

The spring is the best time of the year to spread.

This is the time of year when your plant naturally starts to grow new leaves and roots. Cutting from a branch that is already making new growth is the best way to do it. This is most likely to happen in the spring. Moving plants around in the spring will also give your new cutting plenty of time to grow before winter.

When To Propagate Fiddle Fig Leaf

The best times to grow more fiddle-leaf figs are in the spring and summer, when the tree is growing quickly. However, you can still try to propagate in the fall and winter. The growth will be slower, and there is a greater chance that the propagation will fail.

How To Propagate Fiddle Leaf Fig In Soil

To make more fiddle leaf fig plants, you must first take a cutting of a leaf or stem. After that, you’ll “root” the cutting, which means putting it in water or very wet soil so it can grow new roots. Here are the steps you need to take to make more plants.

Step 1: Prepare Your Propagation Container

• For the cutting, you should have a bottle ready with clean water that doesn’t contain chlorine.
• Either let regular tap water sit overnight to get rid of the chlorine, or use pure water.
• Make sure the jar is the right size and shape to hold your cutting and keep it right side up.

Step 2: Cut Your Stem.

I suggest cutting a stem with two or three leaves. Any more than that, and the plants will need too much energy to grow.

Cut the stem about 3 inches below the first leaf. Your new plant will have a small stem and enough leaves to stay alive. Pick a few of the plant’s best leaves to cut off. Don’t worry, they’ll grow back after you cut them. Take your cutting with a clean, sharp tool and put it in water right away.

Step 3: Use A Rooting Hormone

Get your plant a rooting hormone to help it grow new roots faster. Do what it says on the bottle and dip the stem once before putting it in soil or water.

Step 4: Place In A Bright Place

Check your growing system every few days to make sure it has enough water and light. Put it somewhere bright but out of direct sunlight. If the water looks cloudy or soily, remove it and replace it with clean water that doesn’t have chlorine in it.

Step 5: Wait One Month

That’s how long it usually takes for your cutting to grow roots. It takes about three weeks for the roots to show up at the bottom of the plant. Let them grow for another week or so before you put them again.

Step 6: Plant Your New Rooted Cutting

Plant your new cutting with roots in wet potting soil. For the first two months, make sure the soil stays evenly moist so the roots can take hold.

This kind of wetness meter will be very helpful! Once every three months after three months, start giving the fiddle leaf fig plant food.

The new plant might not really get going for a year or so, but if you wait and prune it, you’ll have a brand-new fiddle leaf fig plant to enjoy!

It might look hard or scientific to propagate, but it’s really not that hard. It’s more satisfying to grow your own plant from a cutting than to love a fiddle leaf fig plant from the store!

Ficus lyrata name comes from the fact that its big green leaves look like violin, thereby is how it got its name, fiddle leaf fig. To stay strong and healthy, they need water like all plants, but it’s not clear how much they need. In reality, it relies on the plant’s size, the season, and the temperature.

This guide will teach you everything you need to know to water your Fiddle Leaf Fig. How to keep Ficus Lyrata from getting too much water, when it needs water, and how long it can go without water. You will find out when to water your Fiddle Lif Fig the most and a lot more.

How Do I Know If My Fiddle Leaf Fig Needs Water?

There are 4 ways to know if your Fiddle Leaf Fig needs water:

• Put your finger as deep as you can into the ground. Your Fiddle Leaf Fig needs water if your finger comes out dry.
• Put a chopstick in the soil and into the pot’s bottom. Come up with the chopstick. Once it comes out dry and without any soil on it, it’s time to water. This is your Fiddle Leaf Fig.
• Put the soil wetness meter in the ground. The amount of water in the soil will be shown. If it really looks like the ground is dry, it’s time to water.
• Take a look at the leaves. If they are drooping, your plant needs a lot more water. But droopy leaves can also mean the plant has too much water.

What Is The Best Time To Water Fiddle Leaf Fig?

If your Fiddle Leaf Fig is in a pot with soil that drains well and gets enough bright light, you can water it at any time of the day. But most Fiddle Leaf Figs aren’t in bright light and aren’t in pots with soil that drains well. If you water these plants in the evening, you might get swelling. That’s why morning is the best time to water a Fiddle Leaf Fig. If you water your plant in the morning, it will have all day to use the water from the soil and make food. This makes the chances of swelling much lower.

What Is The Best Way To Water A Fiddle Leaf Fig?

For a Fiddle Leaf Fig, the best way to water it is to slowly soak the earth all the way through. Why is it best to water slowly? That’s because the soil has time to soak up the water this way instead of it just running through the pot. And this almost always happens when you pour a lot of water at once.

Check the soil to make sure it got enough water after you water it. Check a few places that are an inch below the top. This is very important if the potting mix you’re using has peat moss in it. That’s because peat doesn’t let water stick to it, so the soil below the surface may stay dry while the soil above it is wet.

How Much Water Does A Fiddle Leaf Fig Need?

The Fiddle Leaf Fig needs a different amount of water each week depending on where it is stored. One cup of water for every foot of the plant’s height is a good rule of thumb. Let’s say your Fiddle Leaf Fig is two feet tall. It needs two cups of water every week. But this is just a general rule that doesn’t take into account the surroundings where your plant is.

Here are the other factors that affect the amount of water you need for Fiddle Leaf Fig watering:

• How big the plant is – Bigger plants need more water than small plants. You’ll find that your plant needs more water as it grows.
• Size of the pot – The same rule holds here: bigger pots need more water than smaller ones.
• How much light the plant is getting – The Fig plant needs more water to stay healthy the more light it gets. You should give your Ficus tree more water if it’s in direct sunlight than if it’s in low light.
• Potting mix – soils that drain quickly need more water than potting mixes that don’t have many holes in them.
• Humidity – When humidity is low, plants lose more water through their leaves, so they need more water when they are watered. It needs less water when the temperature is high.
• Temprature – The plant will need more water when it’s hot outside because the soil will dry out faster. When it’s cooler, it will need less.
• The material the pot is made of –  Plants in clay pots need more water than plants in ceramic or plastic pots. That’s because clay takes water from the ground. No matter what kind of pot you pick, make sure it has a drainage hole. After watering the plant, drain any extra water that is left in the pot.

Keep an eye on all of the above factors and change the amount of water as needed.

What Should A Fiddle Leaf Fig Watering Schedule Look Like?

Fiddle Leaf Figs need different amounts of water depending on the person and the area where they are. Someone else might find that watering their Fiddle plant every two weeks works better than once a week for them.

Most of the time, you should wait until the soil is completely dry before giving it another good watering. A dry chopstick is a simple way to tell if it’s time to water. You should stick the chopstick all the way to the bottom of the pot. If it comes out dry, it’s time to add water.

Which Type Of Water Is Best For My Fiddle Leaf Fig?

River water, pure water, and reverse osmosis are the best types of water for your Fiddle Leaf Fig. You can also use tap water, but be sure to flush the soil every two weeks or give your Fiddle Leaf Plant a new pot every year.

Minerals in tap water may settle into the ground over time. If they build up, they could hurt the roots, which will show up as leaves turning brown.

How Do You Use A Fiddle Leaf Fig Moisture Meter?

Before you use a moisture meter on a Fiddle Leaf Fig, you have to put it into the soil. After that, wait to see what the meter says.

Take note that the moisture meter might give you different results based on where in the soil you put it. If the probe is too close to the ground, it might show that the soil is dry.

When you get too close to the bottom, though, the wetness level will be high. How do you figure out what the numbers mean when you measure the moisture in the soil?

It should be used in the middle of the pot, where most of the roots are, not around the edge. Make sure the wetness meter’s tip is at the root level.

You can see how much water is there on a scale from 1 to 10, with 1 being dry and 10 being wet. It’s still a great tool, even though it won’t tell you for sure when to water your Fiddle Leaf Figs. It will tell you how wet or dry the soil is, and then you can start your work.

You can use it on Fiddle Leaf Figs, as well as any other tropical plants you have.

Can I Use A Watering Globe For Fiddle Leaf Fig?

You can water Fiddle Leaf Fig with a globe, but it might not be the best choice for long-term use. Fiddle Leaf Fig plants like it when they don’t get watered for a while, and watering globes keep the soil wet all the time.

As a result of this, they probably work better for short amounts of time, like when you’re leaving home for a while. Watering globes are a simple way to make sure your plants stay moist when you’re not there.

Underwatered Vs. Overwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig: What’s The Difference?

It’s hard to tell the difference between a Fiddle Leaf Fig that is too wet and one that is too dry because the symptoms are so identical. Look for these things:

• Droopy leaves
• Brown patches
• Dropping leaves
• Yellow leaves
• Browning edges
• Brown spots

How can you tell the difference? Most of the time, when you overwater a plant, the leaves at the bottom fall off, and when you underwater it, leaves fall off all over the plant. But it’s pretty easy to figure out what’s wrong: just look at the soil. If the soil is dry, it means that the plant is possibly too wet. If the earth is wet, you probably gave it too much water.

How To Save An Overwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig?

Repotting a Fiddle Leaf Fig that has been overwatered means getting rid of all the old soil and replacing it with potting mix that drains very well. Also, cut out any roots that are dead, soft, smelly, or mushy.

You should try to get the soil as dry as possible as soon as possible if you don’t want to do a full shift.

Providing As Much Light As Possible

Moving a plant into a terracotta pot increases air flow around the plant. This makes the pot soak up water from the soil and dry out faster.

Can A Fiddle Leaf Fig Live In Water?

Very briefly, a Fiddle Leaf Fig can live in water for just two weeks. After that, root rot will happen to the plant. While the plant is living in the water, it’s important to make sure it has enough nutrients and air.

How Long Can A Fiddle Leaf Fig Go Without Water?

Fiddle Leaf Figs can go for days or weeks without water. This varies on the plant and where it is grown. How long a plant can go without water depends on its size, the amount of light it gets, the temperature, the type of potting mix it is in, and the type of pot it is in.

Can You Bottom Water Fiddle Leaf Fig?

You can water Fiddle Leaf Fig trees from the bottom up. Watering from the bottom will make the soil more saturated. But there is a bad thing about watering Fiddle Leaf Figs from the bottom up. In this case, the earth will pull up any extra salts, which is different from top watering, where salts leave through the drainage hole. Over time, salts can build up in the soil and hurt the roots.

You can lower the pH of the soil by adding things like elemental sulfur, aluminum sulfate, and iron sulfate that you can buy, or you can use natural soil acidifiers like peat moss and compost.

Is your soil’s pH too high? Do you know that when the pH of the earth is high, it makes too much of some nutrients that are bad for plants?

The pH of sand tells you how acidic or basic it is by measuring how many hydrogen ions are present. The pH scale goes from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. 

If the pH is less than 7, the soil is acidic. If it is above 7, the soil is alkaline. “Master soil variable” or “soil reaction” are other names for pH.

What Is pH?

In simple words, pH tells you how acidic or basic a substance is. It goes from 0 to 14. The lower the number, the more acidic the material is, and the higher the number, the more alkaline it is.

A pH of 7.0 is thought to be normal. An acidic substance is one that is less than 7.0 on the pH scale. An alkaline substance is one that is greater than 7.0 on the pH scale.

PH measures the number of free hydrogen ions in the solution. This is how the number is found. It is more acidic when there are more hydrogen ions than when there are not.

It’s important to remember that when the pH level changes, it goes up or down by a number of 10. This is shown in the image below. What this means is that a difference of 1 unit is not as important as a difference between pH 5 and 4.

pOH is another thing you might see when you look at pH tools. This is kind of like pH, but it measures the amount of OH ions present. It works the other way around, with low numbers meaning the substance is alkaline and high numbers meaning it is acidic. This is a less important number, but it might come up when you look at acidity and alkalinity.

How To Test Your Soil

A small fee will be charged by your cooperative extension office to do a basic test on soil from your yard. The results show the pH level as well as the main and secondary nutrients and micronutrients that your sample may not have enough of.

You can also buy a test kit in stores, online, or at garden centers. For a simpler test, you can use things you already have in your house.

When To Lower Soil pH

If you want to make a new flower bed, you should test the soil as soon as possible. Soil bacteria react with sulfur to lower the pH, but the soil has to be above 55 degrees Fahrenheit for this to work. After adding sulfur, you should wait about a month before planting. Adding sulfur in the fall or winter won’t work as planned.

Before you plant, it’s also easiest and most effective to change the way the soil is made up. Even though this isn’t always possible, be sure to use the best tools and methods to keep the roots from getting hurt.

NOTE: When dealing with chemicals, you should always be careful. Gloves, safety glasses, and protective clothes can keep your hands and eyes from getting burned or irritated in other ways.

Decreasing The pH In Soil

What you use to lower the pH of soil varies on the type or size of plant you are growing and how quickly you want the pH to change.

Adding elements like sulfur, aluminum sulfate, and iron sulfate that can be bought in stores is the best way to lower the pH of soil.

Elemental Sulfur

Most people use elemental sulfur to lower the pH of their soil because it is safe, not too expensive, and easy to find at most garden stores and agriculture suppliers in their area. One bad thing about it is that it takes a long time to react with soil. Elements of sulfur need to go through two steps in order to lower the pH of soil: a slow organic process and a fast chemical process. It might take 3 to 6 months to finish this process.

Aluminum Sulfate

On the other hand, aluminum sulfate reacts with soil very quickly because it only needs to finish the chemical process. Two bad things about using aluminum sulfate are that it is harmful to plants and a lot of it is needed to lower the pH.

Iron Sulfate

Iron sulfate, also known as ferrous sulfate, reacts quickly in soil. It costs more than basic sulfur because it takes eight times as much of it to lower the pH in soil. Soil’s pH drops when iron sulfate breaks apart the salts into iron and sulfuric acid. This binds iron to clay or precipitates, which neutralizes the soil.

Because aluminum sulfate and elemental sulfur are stronger ways to lower the pH of soil, you must use the right amounts.

You can also lower the pH of your soil over time by adding things like peat moss, rotted manure, or organic leaf compost. If your land is sandy, peat moss will work especially well.

How To Lower pH Naturally

Using natural materials to lower the pH takes time and needs to be done more than once, but it is one of the easiest ways to do it in flowerbeds and gardens that are already there.

Organic materials like manure and compost can be added to vegetable fields before they are planted or as side dressings that are raked or hoed in after the plants have grown.

But all types of manure should be aged before they are put to garden soil. Chicken manure works best for making soil more acidic. Mulches, bark, and leaves made from pine all lower pH but break down very slowly.

How To Lower pH After Planting

Over time, the soil loses its acidity, which makes the pH level grow. Keep the best balance for plants is a constant process because of this. Ammonium nitrate works quickly, but it also runs out quickly, so it needs to be used again and again.

When added to the soil around plants, it needs to be worked in. Adding too much can hurt the roots and their ability to take in nutrients. Adding organic mulches and well-composted material every year is the best way to keep the pH level of your flowers, fruits, and veggies at a neutral level.

What Can Affect Soil pH?

Because soil was made from rocks, its natural pH is set by those rocks. It is also changed by time, vegetation, dry or wet climates, and the land’s shape. As time goes on, nitrogen fertilizers with ammonium and ammonium sulfate in them lower the pH.

A slow drop in pH can also happen with some organic fertilizers. Hard water has minerals and salts that raise the pH of the earth. A lot of wood ash also does this.

Factors Affecting Soil pH

The types of parent materials that a soil was made from affect its pH value. Most of the time, soils that formed from basic rocks have higher pH levels than soils that formed from acid rocks.

Soil pH is also changed by rain. Basic nutrients like calcium and magnesium are washed out of the soil when water flows through it. They are swapped out for acidic elements like iron and aluminum.

Because of this, soils that formed when it rained a lot are more acidic than soils that formed when it was dry.

Using nutrients with ammonium or urea speeds up the process of soil becoming acidic. Soil becomes more acidic when organic matter breaks down.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What Fertilizer Will Lower pH Of Soil?

A: Soil pH will go down when you use ammonium and sulfur fertilizers. Some of these nutrients are urea, ammonium sulfate, and ammonium nitrate. Nitrogen fertilizers, on the other hand, will make the soil more acidic.

Q: Can You Use Vinegar To Lower pH In Soil?

A: Even though vinegar is acidic, it doesn’t work as well as the other methods in this piece.

Q: Why Is My Soil pH So High?

A: There are a few reasons to explain this. One could be just the place where you live. Soils that don’t get as much water and have more sand naturally have a higher pH. The constant use of wood ash and alkaline supplements could be another reason.

By testing the pH value of the soil, you can find out whether it is usually acidic or alkaline. For plants to grow well, the pH level needs to be just right. Also, it’s important to know how different ways of managing soil will change the pH of the soil over time. Researchers have found that some farming methods change the pH of the soil in a big way.

What Is Ph?

The pH of the soil tells you how acidic or basic the soil is.

A pH number is actually a way to measure how many hydrogen ions are in a solution. A logarithmic measure (pH) is used because the concentration of hydrogen ions can be very different. For every 1 drop in pH, the acidity goes up by 10.

The pH scale is “backwards,” so very acidic soil has a low pH and a high hydrogen ion content. So, the concentration of hydrogen ions is low when the pH is high (alkaline).

The pH of most soils is between 3.5 and 10. When it rains a lot, the pH of the earth is usually between 5 and 7, but when it doesn’t rain much, it’s between 6.5 and 9.

Soils can be classified according to their pH value:

6.5 to 7.5—neutral above 7.5—alkaline below 6.5—acidic, and soils with a pH of less than 5.5 are very acidic.

Some acid sulfate soils have pH levels that are less than 4, which is very acidic.

Origins

The pH of natural soil is based on the rock that the soil was made from (parent material) and the weathering processes that happened on it over time, space, vegetation, climate, and topography. In the long run, these processes tend to lower pH (make it more acidic).

Some farming actions can also speed up the process of acidification.

What Is Acidic Soil?

There is a range from 1 to 14 that shows how acidic something is, including soil. Anything less than 7 is thought to be acidic. Everything above is thought to be alkaline. A pH level of 6 to 7.5 is good for most yard plants. The best pH range for yard plants is between 6 and 7.5. This is because phosphorus in the soil dissolves in water and is taken up by plant roots at that pH range.

One of the three macronutrients that all plants need is phosphorus. In the NPK ratios that you see on fertilizer packages, phosphorus is the middle number. It helps the plant grow and set fruit.

What Causes Acidic Soil?

It might surprise you as a farmer to find that your garden’s soil is more acidic now than it was the last time you checked. Most of the time, acidic soil is found in nature, even in wooded areas.

This is why many plants that grow in forests, like the native North American ground cover bunchberry (Cornus canadensis), like acidic soil. Over time, the earth can become acidic because of three main things:

• Chemical fertilizers: Using fertilizers that are high in nitrogen makes the soil more acidic.
• Heavy rain: When it rains a lot, water moves quickly through the soil, which is called leaching. This takes good things like calcium and magnesium and makes the soil acidic.
• Organic matter: The ground naturally becomes more acidic as organic matter breaks down, whether it’s in your yard or in the forest.

Different people have different ideas about whether the type of mulch you use in your garden changes the pH of the soil. Gardeners have thought for a long time that pine needles or oak leaves will make the ground under them more acidic than other types of mulch.

Types Of Soil Acidity

Soils are acidic in two different ways. Active acidity is the amount of acidity in the soil that can be measured by pH during a normal soil test. This is the amount of H+ ions found in the soil solution when the earth and water are mixed in a 1:1 ratio.

But not all H+ ions are released into solution right away by the soil. Some of the H+ ions stay tied to clay and organic matter (OM) particles that have negatively charged exchange sites.

This level of acidity is known as “reserve acidity” because H+ can be released into solution when the soil’s solution conditions change because of changes in wetness and the amount of ions and salts that are dissolved. Adding a weak calcium chloride solution (0.01 M CaCl2) or a buffer to the water pH suspension is one way to measure how acidic it is.

Active and reserve acidity, which are shown by water and buffer pH, are connected, but how they work together depends on the types and amounts of clay minerals, organic matter, and free lime in the soil.

The amount and type of clay and organic matter in the soil affects the cation exchange capacity (CEC), which in turn affects the reserve acidity to active acidity ratio. A soil with a high CEC (more OM and clay) can better handle acidity than a soil with a low CEC (more sand, less clay, and more OM).

How To Test Your Soil

Every few years, check the pH level of your soil. You can send a sample of soil to your local extension office and have them do the test for you, or you can do the test yourself. You can get test kits at most home improvement shops and a lot of garden centers. Find out what pH level your plants like in the soil: Before you plant something, you should learn about it so you know which plants do best in acidic or alkaline soil.

How To Make Soil More Or Less Acidic

It is important to keep an eye on the pH level of your soil since it takes time for the pH to change. To change the soil, do the following:

Raising Soil Acidity

Plants that like acidic soil (also known as “acid-loving” plants) can have the soil made more acidic. The pH of the earth drops when you do this. Commercial fertilizers with ammonium-N are the best way to raise acidity. For example, you can find this ingredient in fertilizers made just for azaleas and blueberries.

Lowering Soil Acidity

On the other hand, plants that do better in sweet soil might not do as well in acidic soil. Adding yard lime to your soil will raise its pH, which will make it less acidic. Lime has been used for years to make acidic soils less acidic. The white powder that you might see spread out on a field of crops is lime.

A soil test can tell you if the pH of your soil needs to be raised. If it does, add garden lime to your list of fall lawn and garden care chores. What you did will start to show over the next growth season.

As a home gardener, you should check the pH of your soil because some plants need a certain pH level and won’t do well if the pH isn’t in a certain range. A pH test checks how acidic the soil is, which can affect how well plants can take in minerals.

Plant food and fertilizer won’t help if the pH level of the soil isn’t in the right range for the plant. This is because the plants can’t take the nutrients.

A soil pH test actually checks for the presence of hydrogen ions in the earth. If the pH is less than 7.0, it is acidic. If the pH is equal to or greater than 7.0, it is normal. It doesn’t always mean that acidic or alkaline soil is bad; it depends on the plants you’re growing.

But some plants need certain conditions. Most plants can grow in soil with a pH between 6 and 7.5. To grow berries, blueberries need soil that is acidic (4.5 to 5.5), while lavender grows best in soil that is alkaline (about 8.0).

When To Conduct A Soil pH Test

Checking the pH of your soil should be on your list of things to do in the yard this fall. If you check the pH in the fall, you can fix it before growing season in the spring. Also, weeds that grew over the summer can tell you a lot about the pH of your soil, so fall is a great time to keep track of them.

For example, plantain, dandelions, and wild strawberries grow best in acidic soil. On the other hand, chickweed, Queen Anne’s lace, and chicory do better in alkaline soil.

If you test the soil’s pH in the fall, you have plenty of time to plant a nitrogen-fixing cover crop (if you live in a mild climate) or change your planting plans for next year based on the pH number.

If the soil is too acidic, you can make it less acidic by adding organic matter like peat moss. Adding lime to acidic soil can make it less acidic. Changes to the soil’s type and amount rely on how much the pH needs to be raised or lowered.

Testing pH Using Kitchen Supplies

When you add an acidic solution to a basic or alkaline solution, they respond. Baking soda and vinegar (which is acidic) can be used to quickly find out what the pH level of the soil is.

This easy-to-do test will tell you whether the soil is mostly acidic or mostly alkaline. It’s best for people who have healthy gardens that could use a little more specific care.

1. Dig For A Soil Sample

To get a soil sample, use a hand trowel to dig four to six inches below the top of the soil. You can get a good sample of the soil in your garden bed by digging in a few different spots.

2. Clean The Soil

Take rocks, sticks, and other things that are in the way off the ground. Make sure to separate any big pieces.

3. Add Soil And Water Together

Put about a cup of soil into a clean glass jar. Then, add enough distilled water to make mud out of the soil.

4. Add The Vinegar

Add half a cup of vinegar and mix it in. In order to tell if your soil is alkaline, it should fizz, foam, or bubble.

5. Repeat The Process If No Bubbling Occurs

Get a piece of soil, clean it up, put it in a clean container, and mix it with distilled water to make mud.

6. Add The Baking Soda

Mix in 1/2 cup of baking soda. If your soil foams, pops, or fizzes, it’s acidic.

How To Test Soil pH With A Meter

One of the easiest ways to check pH is with a soil pH meter. It’s easy to use these soil pH probes: just push the pointy metal probe that looks like a stick into the ground or a cup of soil.

The depth is different based on who made the meter. Some probes give you data right away, while others might take a minute. Some probes check for things besides pH, like temperature, depth of soil, and sunshine.

These digital and analog tools don’t need test strips, a lot of time, or mixing of ingredients. For some meters, you may need to add water to the cup. Follow the directions on the package for the best results.

Soil pH Testing Tips

Your soil is probably in the neutral range if you test it with vinegar and baking soda and neither one has a big affect. There is no need for any more tests.
For the vinegar-baking soda test, you can mix soil from different parts of a small garden. If you have a big garden, though, it’s best to try several samples at once.

If you can’t get anything to grow in your garden beds or your lawn isn’t doing well, you should send a sample of your soil to a professional soil testing lab to get a full study. Based on the test results, the experts will make specific suggestions for how to improve the soil.

If you’re a gardener in a hot climate (like me), you may have grown okra and wondered what to do with the excess harvest. How about using the abundance to make okra water? In this blog post, I’ll share the health benefits of okra water and show you how to make and use it.

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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How to make okra water

To make okra water, all you need is fresh okra and water. 

1. Start by washing the okra pods and cutting off the stems.
2. Then, slice the okra pods in half or coarsely chop them.
3. Place the okra in a jar or a large bowl and cover it with water.
4. Refrigerate and let it sit overnight or for at least 8 hours.
5. The water will turn slimy, slightly thick, and have a neutral or somewhat earthy taste.
6. Once the water has infused with okra and turned into a gel-like substance, strain the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth.
7. Add lemon juice or honey to the water to add flavor.
8. Store the okra water in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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Health benefits of okra water

This tender vegetable is an excellent source of fiber, vitamins, and antioxidants and has many health benefits.¹ Okra water can help boost your immune system, fight inflammation, and improve your heart health.²

Okra water contains a high amount of soluble fiber, antioxidants, and vitamin C, which makes it a nourishing drink for your body. Here are some of the health benefits of okra water:

• Boosts immune system: Okra water contains vitamin C and other nutrients that can help strengthen your immune system and protect your body against infections, viruses, and diseases.
• Prevents constipation: The soluble fiber found in okra water can help regulate bowel movements and reduce symptoms of constipation, as it acts as a natural laxative.
• Regulates blood sugar levels: If you have diabetes or pre-diabetes, drinking okra water may help stabilize your blood sugar levels and improve insulin sensitivity. The fiber in okra water slows down the absorption of sugar from your intestines and into your bloodstream, which can prevent blood sugar spikes.
• Lowers cholesterol: The soluble fiber in okra water can also help reduce harmful cholesterol levels in your blood. By binding to bile acids in your gut, the fiber prevents them from being absorbed, forcing your liver to produce more bile from existing cholesterol, lowering your cholesterol levels.

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How to use okra water

You can drink okra water as a refreshing beverage by adding ice cubes, lemon wedges, mint, herbs, or your favorite sweeteners. I like to use 2 parts water to 1 part okra water, and add lemon, mint, and ice.

Okra water can also be used as a base for smoothies, juice blends, or tea infusions. Use okra water in recipes that call for liquid, such as soups, stews, and sauces.

When using okra water in cooking, remember that it has a neutral taste and can thicken liquids due to its natural mucilage. To avoid slimy textures, use okra water in moderation or mix it with other liquids.

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Tips for growing and harvesting okra

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Okra water is a simple and affordable way to boost your health and enjoy the benefits of this nutritious vegetable. Whether you grow your own okra plant or buy fresh okra from your local farmers’ market, you can enjoy the many flavors and nutrients that okra has to offer. So try okra water and see how it can benefit your body and taste buds!

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Sources that offer more information on the health benefits of okra:

1. “Okra Nutrition Facts.” Healthline, 22 May 2020, https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/okra-nutrition.
2. “Okra: Health Benefits and Nutritional Information.” Medical News Today, 22 June 2018, https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/318595.

Disclaimer: The information provided in this blog post about the potential health benefits of okra water is for educational purposes only and not intended as medical advice. Always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before changing your diet or lifestyle. The author and publisher of this blog post are not responsible for any adverse effects that may arise from using the information provided herein.

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With the help of my friend James and some of my children, we got the hoops up today:

It’s tall, too! Over 12′:

This is the greenhouse kit we bought.

James found this company and was pleased with the one he got, so I bought the same.

Share this post!

Sip on some goodness with my favorite tea, roselle citrus tea.

The first blooms on my roselle signal the beginning of fall. I look forward to the cooler temperatures and roselle harvests. One of my favorite things to make with roselle is roselle citrus tea. Brisk mornings are perfect for a warm cup of this delicious tea. It’s made from freeze-dried or dehydrated roselle, lemon verbena, stevia, lemon grass, and lemon peel. 

Roselle citrus tea is easy to prepare and can be enjoyed as a warm or cold beverage. This tea is a delightful combination of tart and sweet flavors. In this blog post, I’ll share my recipe and explore some health benefits of its delicious ingredients.

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What is roselle? 

Roselle is a tropical hibiscus plant widely used for medicinal and culinary purposes. It goes by many names, including red sorrel, Jamaican sorrel, Hibiscus sabdariffa, and Florida cranberry. It is a beautiful plant that produces deep red fruit calyxes that can be used in various recipes, including jellies, jams, teas, and more. If you want to learn more about how to grow this amazing plant, check out our blog post on “How to Grow Roselle.”

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Roselle citrus tea ingredients: 

Roselle Citrus Tea is a tasty and healthy drink you can make at home with just a few ingredients. Since it is made from all-natural ingredients, it is a great alternative to sugary packaged drinks. 

To make Roselle Citrus Tea, you will need a few essential ingredients, including freeze-dried roselle, lemon verbena, stevia, lemon grass, and lemon peel.

These things grow easily in my low desert garden throughout the year. I preserve them at harvest time by freeze-drying. Learn more about freeze-drying in this blog post. You can also preserve by dehydrating.

These ingredients may be available online if you don’t grow your own. Look for high-quality, organic ingredients to make the best-tasting and healthiest tea.

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Health benefits

• Roselle is high in antioxidants, specifically anthocyanins. Studies have shown that antioxidants in the hibiscus plant have anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties.¹
• Lemon verbena leaves contain chemicals that may reduce swelling.²
• Lemongrass has flavonoids and phenolic compounds that possess antioxidant properties. It also exhibits powerful antibacterial and antifungal effects and anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.³

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How to make roselle citrus tea

To make roselle citrus tea, combine all the ingredients – freeze-dried roselle, lemon verbena leaves, stevia, lemon grass, and lemon peel – in a blender and pulse them for a few seconds until they are chopped. Once the ingredients are blended, store them in an airtight jar. 

To prepare a cup of tea, steep two teaspoons of the mixture in boiling water for 10 minutes. The smell that wafts up as you steep the tea is divine.

If you prefer a cold drink, make roselle citrus iced tea by steeping the tea mixture in boiling water for 10 minutes, cooling the tea, and adding ice cubes and lemon slices. This makes for a refreshing and healthy summer drink.

Add honey or orange slices to your tea to enhance the flavor and sweetness.

Dehydrated ingredients may be substituted for freeze-dried. The measurements are the same.

I hope you try this recipe and enjoy Roselle Citrus Tea as much as we do!

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If you enjoyed this recipe, please share it:

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Sources used in this article:

1. Health Benefits of Hibiscus Tea, According to a Dietitian, EatingWell.com
2. Lemon Verbena – Uses, Side Effects, and More, Web M.D.
3. Lemongrass Health Benefits, Web M.D.

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But as my overall plan has evolved, I’ve grown to love these garden pals so much that I’ve even added a few more to my landscape over the last decade.

The Hicks yew is my low-maintenance, hard-working hero. With a large property, I don’t have the time and resources to devote to every nook and cranny of my landscape, and this shrub has been a game-changer. It’s my ornamental BFF.

If you haven’t considered it yet, or if you’re here to learn more about ‘Hicksii,’ you’re in the right place.

In this article, I’ll cover all the things I love about my buddy, and I’ll tell you how to grow, care for, and find these shrubs for your own garden. Here’s a quick preview:

Ready to learn more about this dependable evergreen shrub? Let’s do it, folks!

What Is Hicks Yew?

Commonly known as Hicks yew, Hicks hybrid yew, or Hicks intermediate yew, this evergreen conifer shrub is a popular standout in the Taxus genus.

‘Hicksii’ is a hybrid cultivar, born from the union of the English yew (T. baccata) and the Japanese yew (T. cuspidata).

So, it’s got genes from the best of both worlds: the ornamental value of its English parent paired with the winter hardiness gained from its Japanese lineage. You could call this plant a global citizen!

The designation Taxus x media is given to a large group of hybrid cultivars that can vary considerably in size and character. 

The ‘Hicksii’ yew has a dense and narrow columnar growth habit, reaching an average size of nine to 12 feet tall with a spread that spans about one-half to one-third of its height.

Over time, when allowed to grow to its natural shape, the top of the plant becomes wider than the base.

The needles are glossy dark green on top and light green underneath, and remain on the plant year-round, making it an all-season eye-catcher.

You might be wondering, “Where can I grow this beauty?” Well, it thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 7. It’s not too picky but does the best in well-drained, fertile, and moist soil conditions.

If you’re looking for a plant that’s versatile, hardy, and downright good-looking, ‘Hicksii’ might just be your new garden BFF too.

Since this plant is a cultivated hybrid, it’s got some history! Curious to know the whole story? Let’s dive into a full lesson, shall we?

Cultivation and History

The ‘Hicksii’ yew is a bit of a hybrid globetrotter in the botanical world, with English and Japanese lineage. The hybridization of these two yews, however, took place right here in North America.

In 1904, a horticulturist from Massachusetts named T. D. Hatfield began experimenting with raising new hybrids from seed. His work is documented in a paper he published in 1929.

Around the same time, a nurseryman named Henry Hicks was experimenting with growing seedlings at his nursery, Hicks Nurseries, Inc., in Long Island, New York.

In a 1924 Hicks Nursery catalog, he introduced his new selection, ‘Hicksii,’ to the world, and it’s been a popular choice ever since.

This plant’s beauty, combined with its functional versatility, caught the eye of gardeners and horticulturists. It thrives in well-drained soils, tolerates drought, and can even withstand less than ideal urban conditions like pollution.

This popular plant has truly stood the test of time. So, whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a newbie with a spade, the ‘Hicksii’ yew offers a blend of beauty, versatility, and history that’s hard to resist.

If you’re wondering how to get your hands on this gorgeous, green shrub, let’s investigate propagation methods.

Hicks Yew Propagation

So, you’re thinking of propagating your own ‘Hicksii’ yew, huh? Well, let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of how to make that happen.

Let’s first address the option of growing this plant from seed.

While it’s true that yews do produce seeds encased in a fleshy aril, it’s important to note that ‘Hicksii’ is a cultivated hybrid plant. This means that a propagated seedling will not grow true to the parent plant.

As for division, that’s generally not recommended for yews. They have a complex root system that doesn’t take kindly to being split, and with this type of treatment you may run the risk of losing your plant.

Hicks yews are generally propagated from cuttings which are usually taken from semi-hardwood stems and treated with rooting hormone to encourage root development.

It’s a bit of a waiting game, but if you’re patient and have a green thumb, you will end up with a new plant that’s a spitting image of its parent.

If you’re patient and into the joy of watching something grow from scratch and have the time to spare, go for it!

But if you’re looking for a faster, less labor-intensive, and more reliable route, snagging a potted ‘Hicksii’ from a reputable nursery is going to be your best bet. It’s easy and gives an immediate payoff.

Transplanting

I’ll fast-forward through your shopping trip where you pick up your baby yew – for more tips to acquire a nursery plant, see the Where to Buy section of this guide below.

Assuming you have your potted plant in your possession, let’s walk through the steps of transplanting. Roll up your sleeves. Let’s go!

First things first, pick a spot that gets a good mix of sun and shade. ‘Hicksii’ isn’t too fussy but does appreciate well-drained, fertile soil. So, if your garden is swampy, you might want to reconsider your chosen location.

Once you’ve got the perfect spot, dig a hole that’s about twice the width of the pot and just as deep. This gives the roots some room to stretch out and get comfy.

Before you plop the plant in, mix some organic matter into the soil at the bottom of the hole. Trust me, your yew will thank you for it later.

For the first few weeks, keep an eye on the moisture level and water as needed. These yews are pretty drought tolerant once established, but they do like a good drink now and then.

And voila! You’ve successfully transplanted your ‘Hicksii’ yew. Give yourself a pat on the back and mix a celebratory cocktail or fancy mocktail; you’ve earned it!

In summary, while the art of propagation is fascinating, it’s not for the faint of heart—or the impatient. But hey, gardening is all about the journey, right?

So, whether you choose to propagate or to purchase, you’re in for a rewarding experience growing your new shrub.

Speaking of growing, let’s investigate the needs of Hicks yew a little further. As I always say, every bit of knowledge helps, right? Let’s grow.

How to Grow Hicks Yew

Alright, folks. Let’s discuss the best growing conditions and how to care for your ‘Hicksii’ yew in more detail.

First off, the ideal location is flexible. Suited to USDA Zones 4 to 7, making it quite a resilient choice for various climates, this plant is pretty darn versatile, thriving in both full sun and part shade.

So, whether you’ve got a sunny spot or a partially shaded corner, as long as it has sufficient room to grow, your shrub will be happy.

What about spacing?

As I mentioned, the average height of this shrub is nine to 12 feet. The key word here is “average.” A quick online search will reveal a confusing range of six to 20 feet.

And since the mature spread is about one-half to one-third of the height, this means your shrub could be anywhere between two and ten feet wide. So, what gives?

Environmental factors can play a role. Soil quality, water availability, and even the amount of sun or shade the plant receives can influence its growth.

It’s like how you might thrive in a bustling city while your twin prefers the quiet countryside.

Also, care and maintenance can’t be overlooked. Pruning, fertilizing, and general TLC can all impact how plants grow. It’s the plant equivalent of going to the gym; you get out what you put in.

Because the height and width of these shrubs can vary widely, it’s not entirely a roll of the dice. You can still plan ahead. Read the nursery tag and ask a professional in the nursery or greenhouse for help to determine the correct spacing.

Now, let’s talk about soil. As I’ve mentioned, this plant is not too fussy but prefers well-drained, fertile soil. Sandy or loamy soils are best.

And guess what? It’s drought tolerant too! But don’t let it swim; it doesn’t like wet feet. ‘Hicksii’ also prefers soil with a pH level of 6.0 to 7.0.

What are the watering needs of this shrub? Well, it’s a bit of a Goldilocks situation – not too much, not too little.

Make sure the soil is moist but well-drained. Overwatering can lead to root rot, and nobody wants that.

Here’s a bonus: this plant is a bit of a social butterfly. It gets along well with most garden plants.

But heed this warning: eating the seeds inside the berries of yews poses the highest risk of toxicity, but all parts of the plant, aboveground and below, are poisonous to humans and pets if ingested. So don’t let Fido dig to hide his bones near your ‘Hicksii’ yew.

To sum it up, pick a sunny or partially shaded spot, give it well-drained soil, water it just right, and give it room to grow. Like I said: easy peasy, right?

If you want to learn more, read our comprehensive yew growing guide.

Growing Tips

• Choose a location with full sun to part shade.
• Plant in well-draining, fertile, sandy or loamy soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.
• Keep soil moist but avoid overwatering.

Pruning and Maintenance

‘Hicksii’ yew is as versatile as it is resilient. But even the hardiest plants could use a little TLC, right? So, I’ll cover a few items to help you keep this evergreen beauty in tip-top shape.

First things first, let’s talk about pruning. This shrub is forgiving when it comes to snipping and shaping. You can manage its height and control its shape through pruning, and it tolerates even the most severe cuts.

The best time for pruning is in late winter to early spring, before new growth starts.

Whether you’re going for a topiary masterpiece or just a neat hedge, this yew’s got you covered.

As for fertilizing, this plant isn’t too fussy. It grows best in fertile, moist soil, so a balanced fertilizer should do the trick. Skip the first year of planting, and apply annually every spring.

A two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch around the base should suffice. Just make sure you don’t pile it up against the trunk; we don’t want to encourage rot and disease.

Speaking of weeds, let’s talk about the garden chore we all love to hate. Keeping the area around your shrub weed-free is more than just an aesthetic choice; it’s about giving your plant the space to thrive.

Weeds can compete with your yew for nutrients, water, and sunlight, so it’s best to keep them at bay. A simple hand-pulling session every now and then should do the trick.

If you’ve mulched properly, this task becomes even easier, as mulch helps to suppress weed growth.

So, put on your favorite gardening gloves and hold a weekend weeding party. Your yew will thank you for it!

And there you have it – with pruning, fertilizing, mulching, and now weeding under your belt, you’re well on your way to becoming a ‘Hicksii’ yew whisperer.

If this carefree shrub has captured your attention, keep reading to learn where to find one (or many) to add to your own garden.

Where to Buy

So, you’ve decided that ‘Hicksii’ yew is the missing piece in your garden puzzle. Fantastic! Now, where to find this evergreen gem?

This shrub may be susceptible to a few herbivores and a couple of insect critters, as well as a few undesirable diseases.

Herbivores

As I mentioned earlier, ‘Hicksii’ yew plants are toxic to humans and pets.

The needles, seeds, and even the wood and roots are poisonous. All domesticated animals, including livestock, should steer clear.

Thankfully, rabbits seem to know better, so they shouldn’t bother your yews.

But a few animals seem to escape these toxic effects. Wild deer, moose, and elk can chomp these plants and walk away unscathed.

This means that if you live in a rural setting where these specific creatures frequent your gardens, be on the lookout for damage, especially in the winter when food sources are scarce.

If it becomes an issue you may want to consider installing deer fencing to deter unwanted visitors to the garden buffet.

Insects

I’m sorry if bugs make you squeamish, but we need to talk about them. Not only can they directly damage your plants, but they can also indirectly introduce pathogens.

While these bugs might give you a bit of a headache, they’re not unbeatable. A little vigilance and the right treatment can go a long way. Let’s take a closer look.

Bud Mites

These tiny critters, Cecidophyopsis psilaspis, can cause damage and even death to buds. They tend to overwinter between bud scales, and peak in late summer and early fall.

If you notice distorted needles and shoots, it’s time to act. Treatment with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can help control these mites.

Mealybugs

Adult female mealybugs are small, brownish colored, oval-shaped, and appear waxy and covered in white “fluff.” They can be hard to spot as they like to hide in the interior of the plant.

Symptoms of infestation include leaf loss and concurrent infections with black sooty mold. If populations grow out of control, applying insecticides like neem oil can be effective.

Learn more about how to manage mealybugs in our guide.

Fletcher Scale

Adult fletcher scale females are globular soft scale insects that appear yellow to brown in color.

They can cause general plant health decline and produce sticky honeydew, attracting other pests and mold.

Horticultural oil or insecticidal soap can be effective for battling an infestation.

Check out our guide to scale insects to learn more.

Taxus Weevils

Otiorhynchus sulcatus, also known as Taxus weevils, are the most devastating of the root weevils.

Armillaria Root Rot

The honey fungus, also known as Armillaria mellea, affects many species of ornamental trees and shrubs, including yews.

Symptoms include stunted vertical growth, sparse foliage, and stunted, yellow leaves.

The most distinctive sign of infection is the production of clusters of honey-colored mushrooms at the base of the shrub.

No effective chemical controls are known, but maintaining healthy plant vigor can help your yews to resist infection.

Needle Blight

This disease is caused by Pestalotiopsis species of fungi. Characterized by needle discoloration, it can lead to defoliation.

This disease is more common in stressed plants, so maintaining good cultural practices is key. Fungicides can also be used as a preventive measure.

Root Rot

Species of Phytophthora, soilborne oomycetes, can cause root rot, leading to wilting and death of the plant.

Good drainage and avoiding waterlogged conditions can help prevent this disease. Chemical control options are limited. Affected plants should be removed and destroyed.

Best Uses of Hicks Yew

What are the best ways to incorporate this hardworking yew into your garden? I like to think of this plant as a grounding force for the home landscape – stable, reliable, and supportive, like a best friend.

‘Hicksii’ is a real showstopper when it comes to hedging and screening. Its columnar, upright habit makes it an ideal choice for creating natural barriers or privacy screens.

Whether you’re looking to delineate your property, add a touch of green to an urban setting, or simply create a cozy, secluded corner in your garden, it’s up to the task.

Plus, its tolerance for various light conditions means you can plant it in full sun, partial shade, or even full shade, giving you plenty of options for placement.

But don’t just stop at hedging – this versatile plant has more to offer.

Its evergreen foliage provides year-round interest, making it a great addition to mixed borders or as a standalone specimen.

Imagine a ‘Hicksii’ yew as the centerpiece of a winter garden, its dark green needles contrasting beautifully with a blanket of snow. And go ahead, adorn it with twinkle lights!

Or picture it in a formal garden setting, pruned to your favorite shape and adding a touch of elegance.

The possibilities are endless, really. So, go ahead and let your gardening imagination run wild!

We’re in Holland, Michigan, today visiting Terri Holden’s beautiful garden.

It’s a late summer day on the path through Terri’s garden that leads to Lake Macatawa. Terri says she enjoys water features in the garden and how the light reflects off the water in this birdbath.

Another small garden water feature, with a trickle of water flowing to add sound and movement

Japanese hakone grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’, Zones 5–9) wraps around a miniature hosta in a pot and a very sweet little garden gnome.

This small water feature is surrounded by Heuchera ‘Timeless Night’ (Zones 4–9), a hellebore (Helleborus hybrid, Zones 4–9), and blue-eyed grass with one lingering flower (Sisyrinchium angustifolium ‘Lucerne’, Zones 5–9).

Terri says enjoys geraniums (this one is a Pelargonium hybrid, Zones 9–11 or as an annual) because they never let you down!

The hosta collection started with just five varieties but has grown to 25 different kinds of hostas.

This view out to Lake Macatawa looks over a hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla, Zones 5–9). The blooms have faded on the hydrangea but are no less beautiful as they move into their fall and winter colors.

A tall stand of bright pink garden phlox (Phlox paniculata, Zones 4–8), their flowers reflecting in the still water of a birdbath, make a beautiful garden moment.

A diversity of hostas lie under a weeping larch (Larix decidua ‘Pendula’, Zones 3–8).

A spot to sit by another reliable geranium

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Each season’s recipes channel their essence —the earthiness and abundance of autumn, the verdant zinginess of spring (baked fish with herbs, lemon and asparagus or a courgette frittata with goat cheese, lemon, mint). There are tarts and pies, soups and stews, and many warming dishes. (Baked vacherin with Swiss chard and pink fir apple potatoes? Yes please). None of it feels fussy or time consuming, but with a farm to run, why would it?

This writer has already become obsessed with Roberts’ plum jam, which uses half the amount of sugar of a typical recipe and adds aromatic fig leaves into the mix. Elsewhere, as anyone who has pored over the farmer’s videos will know, you may want to adjust the amount of extra virgin olive oil being generously poured into many dishes.But that is the point of this kind of cooking—it’s easily adjustable to your own tastes. Before you decide to cut back on the fat, though, perhaps give the following recipe a go.

Tarragon Roast Chicken Recipe

*Excerpted from The Farm Table

Ingredients

Serves 5

• 1 organic chicken
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 1 whole head of garlic
• 250ml quality double cream
• a 20g bunch of fresh tarragon, stalks removed, roughly chopped
• 1 large heaped tbsp Dijon mustard
• a glass of dry white wine

Method

Preheat your oven to 220°C fan [convection] and start by spatchcocking the chicken. To do this, turn it over and cut along one side of the spine from the tail to the neck. Then turn it over, open out the two sides and press down hard to flatten it. Your butcher will gladly do this for you. Lay the chicken in a large, high-sided roasting tray, season generously with salt on both sides and leave for an hour at room temperature so it loses the chill of the fridge.

When ready, generously drizzle the skin with olive oil and work it into all the nooks and crannies. Smash the head of garlic and hide the cloves underneath the chicken, then roast in the oven for 20–30 minutes, until the skin begins
to turn golden brown.

Meanwhile, mix the cream, tarragon and mustard in a bowl and season well with salt and pepper. After 20–30 minutes, turn the oven down to 140°C fan, take out the chicken and pour a generous glass of white wine into the tray. Then pour the tarragon cream all over the chicken and place back in the oven for 30–40 minutes until it’s ready. To judge when it’s cooked, I check the deepest part of the thigh with a temperature probe, looking for 65–70°C. If you don’t have one, prod this point with a skewer and ensure the juices run clear. At this point, remove from the oven and leave to rest for 15 minutes, covered loosely with a bit of foil. Carve straight into the tray and serve as you like, with lots of the sauce, garlic and a zingy green salad.

Julius Roberts’ The Farm Table is in bookstores now in the UK; the book launches in the US February 13, 2024.

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