Category: Home & Garden

We’re back with Susan Warde in St. Paul, Minnesota! Yesterday we looked back at the year in her front garden, and today we’re taking the same tour through the seasons but in her back garden, where things are a bit shadier but no less beautiful.

May 17: The back garden is shadier than the front, and the colors are subtler, but the unfurling fronds of maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum, Zones 3–8) in the foreground and royal fern (Osmunda regalis, Zones 3–9) in the top right give a pop of color to the spring garden. White trillium (Trillium grandiflorum, Zones 3–8) and white-edged hostas light up the background.

May 23: Though this tall Northern Lights azalea’s cultivar name is ‘White Lights’ (Rhododendron ‘White Lights’, Zones 4–8), it is actually pink unless grown in full sun. Bare ground is exposed where I dug out quantities of gooseneck loosestrife (Lysimachia clethroides, Zones 3–8). Tiny shoots kept coming back all summer. I don’t recommend it!

May 27: This area is surrounded by a flagstone path. The small maple (upper left) is Acer × pseudoseiboldianum ‘Ice Dragon’ (Zones 4–8). Hostas (the white-edged ones are ‘Blue Ivory’, Zones 3–8), ferns, bugleweed (Ajuga reptens, Zones 3–10), and astilbes (Astilbe sp., Zones 4–8) crowd around it.

June 5: The back garden is mostly about foliage. Here Japanese painted ferns (Athyrium japonicum, Zones 5–9) maidenhair fern, sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis, Zones 4–8), meadow rue (Thalictrum dioicum, Zones 4–7), and three different hostas contrast nicely in a narrow garden along the garage.

June 7: Purple Siberian iris (Iris siberica, Zones 3–8) are in bloom by early June. Behind them is a large clump of narrow-leaved spleenwort (Diplasium pycnocarpon, Zones 3–8).

June 19: At this point I’d begun replanting the space (photo 2) by now more or less free of gooseneck loosestrife. This area of the back garden includes Japanese painted fern and beech fern (Phegopteris connectilis, Zones 2–5) on either side of the ‘El Niño’ hostas. The ground cover on the left is Sedum ‘John Creech’ (Zones 3–8), and there are a couple of patches of wild ginger (Asarum canadense, Zones 4–6). The azalea has leafed out; it will turn orange in September.

July 11: The back garden features pinks and purples in spring. By midsummer most of the blooms are white or lavender. These white spikes, very attractive to pollinators, belong to Culver’s root (Veronicastrum virginicum, Zones 4–8).

August 8: A lot of hostas and many species of ferns fill in the late summer garden.

October 25: It’s all over except for the cleaning up, but a new-this-season clematis is putting out a few last blossoms. On the left is a Korean maple (Acer pseudosieboldianum, Zones 4–8), also reflected in the mirror.

October 28: The back of the garden is lit up by the flame leaves of the ‘Ice Dragon’ maple shown in the third photo. It’s a hardy hybrid between a Japanese maple and a Korean maple.

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Gardening is a highly enjoyable and engaging hobby that is suitable for people of all ages. It keeps you active and encourages you to venture outside into the fresh air and sunlight.

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However, there is one major thing that makes gardening more difficult than it needs to be – pests. Garden pests are a common annoyance that many gardeners face. They present various challenges and can cause damage to your plants.

Rodents, insects, and birds can leave droppings on your plants, chew through leaves, and trample your shrubs. As a result, your garden can look worse for wear, and plants may even die as a result of pest-induced damage.

Taking pest prevention steps ensures your garden looks as good as it can and your plants remain healthy throughout the entire year. There are lots of strategies you can adopt to control the pest levels in your garden and get rid of unwanted insects, rodents, and birds quickly before they cause irreversible damage to your garden.

Below, we’ve covered the most common garden pests and effective pest control methods you can use to protect your plants. Note that you will also need to monitor soil temperature and test soil pH to ensure your plants have the optimal environment for growth.

Aphids

Although minuscule, aphids can be detrimental to plants. They suck the sap out of plants, causing the leaves to become distorted and curl at the edges.

Aphids can reproduce at a rapid rate, making them one of the more difficult pests to control. However, with the right steps, you can free your garden of these tiny pests and keep your plants healthy.

The best method to control aphids is to introduce predatory species, such as ladybirds, that will eat the aphids and manage the problem for you. You can also use insecticidal soap that will kill soft-bodied insects, such as aphids if they come into direct contact with the soap.

Caterpillars

As cute as they may look, caterpillars can be a nuisance for gardeners. Caterpillars chew plant leaves, causing aesthetic defects and physical damage.

If you have the time, you can remove caterpillars by hand whenever you spot them. However, if you’d prefer a quicker and less laborious method, you can spray organic pesticides and insecticides on your plants to kill caterpillars before they can cause extensive damage to your garden. Wasps are also a great way to manage the number of caterpillars in your garden, as they are natural predators.

Snails and Slugs

Slugs secrete pellets that contain a compound called metaldehyde, which can poison pets and other wildlife if they eat these pellets or dead snails and slugs. However, even if you don’t have any pets, you’ll still want to control the levels of these pests in your garden.

Snails and slugs can eat several times their body weight in a single sitting, making them deadly for plants. They enjoy chewing on plant debris, leaves, and grass, leaving your garden looking worse for wear and potentially interrupting your plant’s ability to photosynthesize.

Thankfully, there are a lot of effective ways to get rid of snails and slugs, including using:

• Organic slug pellets, which contain iron phosphate instead of metaldehyde
• Coffee beans or ground coffee to deter them from your plants
• Copper tape to act as a barrier to your plants
• Snail and slug repellent spray
• Nematodes, which act as natural predators of snails and slugs

Whiteflies

Whiteflies are very small but mighty insects. They feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew, which is a sticky substance that can cause your plant’s leaves to wilt.

Although whiteflies are difficult to spot due to their tiny size, you can identify a whitefly infestation by searching for signs of stunted leaf growth or yellowing leaves.

It can be pretty tough, if not impossible, to completely eliminate whiteflies from your garden. However, you can use insecticide soaps, insecticides, natural oils (such as neem oil), and reflective mulches to reduce the number of whiteflies in your garden.

Japanese Beetles

The Japanese beetle has a characteristic and unmissable metallic green and bronze appearance. They can damage plants at the roots, leaves, and flowers when they feed.

Thankfully, there are lots of simple ways to get rid of Japanese beetles from your garden to protect your plants, including natural methods like catnip, garlic, and chives. You can also use repellant sprays, pheromone traps, and pesticides or handpick them from your plants whenever you spot them.

Watering Christmas cactus correctly is essential for maintaining your plant’s health and preserving its beautiful appearance.

In this post, I’ll explain how to tell when it’s time to water your Schlumbergera buckleyi plant, and give detailed step-by-step instructions for keeping it properly hydrated.

By following the techniques in this guide you’ll learn all you need to know about your Christmas cactus plant’s moisture needs, including the best types of water to use, and how to adapt your watering schedule as the seasons change.

Christmas Cactus Water Requirements

The Christmas (aka December) cactus needs consistent moisture, and they don’t like to be overly wet or completely dried out.

Despite their common name, they’re a type of succulent plant, so they can’t tolerate extreme drought conditions that desert cacti thrive in.

In nature they are epiphytes that grow on other plants or rocks, and get most of their moisture from the air rather than the ground.

Does Christmas Cactus Need A Lot Of Water?

Christmas cacti don’t need a lot of water, but they do need consistent moisture, however it’s important not to overdo it.

Over or under watering can cause the leaves, segments, or buds to drop, or lead to root rot, and wilting, mushy leaves, along with other problems.

Related Post: How To Care For A Christmas Cactus Plant (Schlumbergera buckleyi)

Best Type Of Water For Schlumbergera buckleyi

Unlike some plants, the Christmas cactus isn’t overly sensitive to impurities like salts and fluoride in tap water. That said, I do recommend using distilled or rainwater because they are purer.

To avoid shocking or harming your plant, make sure the water is tepid, or at room temperature. And if you do decide to use city tap water, allow the chlorine to evaporate first by letting it sit out for 24 hours.

When To Water Christmas Cactus

To know when it’s time to water your Christmas cactus, check the soil regularly. It should be dry 1” deep before giving it more.

I don’t recommend watering on a set schedule because it’s more likely you’ll give it too much. Always check how dry or wet the soil is first.

How Do I Know If My Christmas Cactus Needs Water?

The easiest way to tell if your Schlumbergera buckleyi needs water is to push your finger into the soil. If the top inch feels dry, then it’s time to give your plant a drink.

Alternatively, use a moisture gauge – a small hygrometer probe that displays how much water is in the soil. A reading of 1 to 3 will tell you that it is dry and it’s time to irrigate your plant.

Should I Water My Christmas Cactus While It’s Blooming?

It’s important to water your Schlumbergera buckleyi while it’s flowering. Keep the soil evenly moist and make sure that it never dries out completely.

But it’s equally important not to overwater during this time, as this can cause the flowers and buds to drop.

When forcing your Christmas cactus to rebloom, reduce the amount of water you give it and allow the soil to dry out more between drinks. Once it sets buds you can return to your regular routine of keeping the soil consistently moist.

Do You Water Christmas Cactus After It Blooms?

Your plant will need a short rest when it’s done flowering, so give it less water at that time and allow the soil to dry out more throughout the winter. Do not to let it become bone dry though.

When you start to see new leaves forming in spring you can return to your regular watering schedule.

How Often To Water Christmas Cactus

There are a few things that influence how often you’ll need to water your December cactus, including the time of year, the environment, and the size of the plant.

In general, you’ll need to water it more frequently during the spring and summer compared to the colder months, particularly if your plant is outside.

The size of the pot makes a difference, too. I recommend checking large containers on a monthly basis and smaller ones weekly.

How Often To Water In Spring & Summer

Spring and summer are the seasons of active growth for your Christmas cactus, so it will need more water during this time.

The increased temperatures and sun exposure will also dry the soil out faster, especially if it’s outdoors.

Check your indoor plant every 2 to 3 weeks to see if it needs a drink, or your outdoor plant weekly.

Start cutting down on the amount of water you give your Schlumbergera buckleyi in late summer.

How Often To Water In Fall & Winter

You won’t need to water as much during the cooler months as the plant’s growth begins to slow down.

Allowing it to dry out more in the fall will encourage it to flower. Once it sets buds in early winter, keep the soil evenly moist to stop the buds and/or flowers from dropping.

Make it a weekly habit to check your plant during the colder months. Your heating system can dry out the indoor air, which means you may have to water more often.

How Much To Water Christmas Cactus

Your December cactus should never dry out completely, since this can cause the buds and flowers to drop and the leaves to wilt.

But you need to be careful not to give it too much water either, as the roots may rot if the soil is soggy.

Instead, check the soil using your finger or a moisture gauge and only give your plant a drink if the top inch is dry, or the gauge shows a reading between 1 and 3.

Underwatering Symptoms

It’s less common to underwater a Christmas cactus than to give it too much, but it’s good to know the signs just in case.

You’ll notice that some of the symptoms listed below are very similar to those of overwatering. That’s why it’s so important to determine if your plant really does need a drink before giving it more.

The signs of an underwatered Schlumbergera buckleyi are:

• Buds and/or flowers dropping
• Entire plant looks droopy
• Dry, pale-looking soil
• Soil pulling away from the inside of the pot
• Leaves turning brown or look lighter in color

Overwatering Symptoms

Not only is overwatering far more common than underwatering, it’s also the #1 killer. Although they like consistent moisture, saturating the soil can cause irreparable harm. 

Here are the signs that your Christmas cactus is getting too much.

• Soggy soil, with water puddling on the surface
• Mushy, limp, or droopy leaves and branches
• Buds and/or flowers dropping
• Leaves and segments dropping
• Mushy roots
• Tiny gnats flying around the plant
• A sour smell caused by rotting roots, branches, or stems

Christmas Cactus Watering Techniques

There are two different methods you can use to irrigate your Schlumbergera buckleyi – either watering from the top or the bottom.

Top-watering is the best method to use, as soaking the rootball can quickly over-saturate the soil. Below, I’ll describe both techniques and the pros and cons of using them.

Top Watering

To water from the top, pour it slowly over the soil until it pools briefly on the surface and you can see it flowing through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Avoid pouring water over the top of the leaves, as they may rot if it sits on them for too long. Make sure that all excess water has drained away, then empty the drip tray and replace the pot.

This is the method I recommend you use for watering your Christmas cactus because it ensures the plant is never soaking and prevents overwatering.

Bottom Watering

To water from the bottom, you fill the drip tray so that the plant can absorb it through the drainage holes in the pot.

The problem with this method, however, is that the soil can feel dry at the top even when the roots are saturated. This means it’s very easy to overwater your plant.

For that reason, I don’t recommend bottom watering unless the soil has dried out so much that it’s unable to absorb water through the surface. In that situation, soak it for around 20 minutes, or until it starts absorbing moisture, then immediately empty the drip tray.

Related Post: How To Propagate Your Christmas Cactus

FAQs

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More About Watering Plants

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Step By Step Instructions

Strobilanthes alternata

In the case of many plants, crinkled leaves are a sign that something’s wrong. But for the waffle plant, it’s just par for the course, and delightfully so.

Flaunting colorful leaves with a waffle-like texture, Strobilanthes alternata is a wonderful option for when you want something different from the standard green, smooth foliage of many other houseplants.

And while it doesn’t taste all that great – even with berries, whipped cream, and syrup – a waffle plant can definitely make you smile like a warm plate of homestyle Eggos does.

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Beautiful, compact, and easy to care for, the waffle plant is a worthy addition to your houseplant collection. And with the proper TLC, they’ll look their absolute best for a good long while.

With this guide, you’ll know exactly what to do to make this happen. Propagation, cultivation, health care – all the know-how you need can be found right here.

Here are the specifics:

What Are Waffle Plants?

Also known as the purple waffle, red ivy, metal leaf, metallic, or cemetery plant, the waffle plant is an herbaceous tropical perennial from the Acanthus family.

It’s commonly found growing in dense carpets underneath the canopies of larger trees.

Hardy in USDA Zones 10 to 11 and originating from Indonesia, India, and Malaysia, the waffle plant is also known by its older name Hemigraphis alternata in some botanical circles, although it has technically been reclassified as Strobilanthes alternata.

This species is used to growing in the damp and shady understories of tropical forests, where they receive dappled light that filters down through the canopy.

As a result, the leaves have evolved to catch all the light they can.

Oppositely-arranged, these simple leaves are oval to heart shaped and “puckered” in texture, with scalloped margins and a metallic sheen.

They’re typically dark green up top and dark purple below, although this can vary a bit in surprising and delightful ways.

Growing six to nine inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide at maturity, waffle plants make wonderful ground covers when grown in-ground, as they spread profusely with their purple, prostrate stems.

Whether in pots, hanging baskets, or rectangular planters, this lateral spreading fills out containers quite nicely.

In spring or summer, waffle plants bloom with small, five-lobed, bell-shaped flowers on one-inch racemes. While some consider them visually insignificant, I think the blooms are an aesthetic treat.

Cultivation and History

As you can imagine, a significant spreader such as S. alternata gets around with the vigor and enthusiasm of The Beach Boys.

Thanks to human introduction and commercialization, the waffle plant can be found growing as ornamental plantings in tropical and subtropical regions of North and South America, Asia, India, and the Indian and Pacific Islands.

On many occasions, waffle plants have actually escaped from cultivation and become naturalized in their new homes.

They can spread out of their placement sites in the garden, or when gardeners dump the leaves and stems as garden waste – these structures can easily start growing as new specimens.

Often displacing native flora, S. alternata is classified as invasive in the Dominican Republic, Hawaii, the Cook Islands, Fiji, French Polynesia, Samoa, Chagos Islands, Reunion, Niue, Palau, and Tonga.

In folk medicine, the leaves of waffle plants are used to treat anemia, dysentery, hemorrhoids, and gallstones, and are also used as a sterility-inducing contraceptive.

But S. alternata is definitely more popular in ornamental gardening. And as a houseplant, it packs the beauty without its potential to spread throughout your yard and become an ecological problem.

Waffle Plant Propagation

Waffle plant seeds are tough to collect from indoor specimens, so seed sowing isn’t a common propagation method among houseplant growers.

You’d have much faster and more reliable success if you were to take stem cuttings or simply transplant a juvenile specimen.

From Cuttings

In early spring, use a sharp, sterile blade to take four- to six-inch cuttings from healthy-looking waffle plant stems. Make sure that each cutting has at least one node on it.

Remove the foliage from the lower half of each cutting, and dip the cut ends in a rooting hormone such as Bonide’s Bontone II IBA powder, available at Arbico Organics.

Bonide Bontone II Rooting Powder

Prepare a three- to four-inch container for each cutting you took, and fill them with a 50:50 mix of a well-draining substrate like perlite and a moisture-retentive substrate such as peat moss.

Stick the cuttings halfway in the media, moisten it, and set the containers where they’ll be exposed to bright, indirect light.

Humidify each cutting with a covering of clear plastic, whether it’s a jerry-rigged plastic baggie or individual humidity domes, like this 10-piece set of four-inch containers with accompanying plastic domes, available on Amazon.

Nursery Pots with Humidity Domes

Keep the media consistently moist as the cuttings root. Once you see new growth above the soil line as an indication of rooting, you can remove the plastic coverings.

This can happen rather quickly: just seven to 10 days after planting your cuttings!

Keep up the care until the cuttings outgrow their containers. At this point, you can transplant them into more permanent homes.

Transplanting

Whether you have well-developed cuttings or a nursery start in need of a new pot, transplanting is just what the doctor ordered.

Prepare a well-draining pot that’s a couple of inches wider in diameter than the root system, as the goal is to provide the roots with at least an inch of elbow room on all sides.

Fill the new pot with well-draining, yet moisture-retaining media, then create a hole wide and deep enough to accommodate the transplant’s root system.

Remove the transplant from its original container, lower it in its new one, backfill any gaps in the hole with the dug-out media, then water in your transplant.

Place the container in bright, indirect light, set a saucer under the container to catch any water that runs off, and you’re done!

How to Grow Waffle Plants

Once you’ve got an established S. alternata, caring for it is as easy as (waffle) pie!

Climate and Exposure Needs

As mentioned earlier, bright, indirect sunlight is essential for S. alternata to thrive, as its leaves evolved to absorb all the indirect light they can snatch from underneath the dense canopies of larger trees.

Temperature-wise, 50 to 80°F is an acceptable range. Aim to hover around that Goldilocks value of 65°F, and you’re golden.

Since waffle plants like humidity, you can provide this by grouping them with other houseplants, placing a humidifier nearby, or setting them onto a tray of pebbles that are partially submerged in water, i.e. a humidity tray.

Bathrooms tend to be pretty humid locations, as well, especially if you shower often and keep the toilet lid up. The lid, not the seat – you learn that the hard way, growing up with sisters.

Soil Needs

A combo of both moisture retention and drainage are essential for a waffle plant’s soil, along with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.

Ensure that the growing media is organically-rich as well, and you’ve got yourself some fertile ground for S. alternata to thrive.

Miracle-Gro Tropical Potting Mix

Need some soil? Try this six-quart bag of tropical potting mix from Miracle-Gro, available on Amazon.

Water and Fertilizer Needs

As a species that’s used to growing in the damp and shady understory of tropical forests, S. alternata has a preference for consistently moist – yet not soggy – soils.

This means watering whenever the soil’s surface feels dry to the touch, but no sooner. 

Monthly applications of a balanced fertilizer throughout the spring and summer will keep your waffle plant well-fed and happy.

Bonide Liquid Fertilizer

Try this liquid 10-10-10 fertilizer from Bonide, available from Walmart.

Growing Tips

• Provide bright, indirect sunlight.
• Make sure the growing media is moisture-retentive, yet well-draining.
• Add water whenever you feel that the surface of growing media is dry.

Pruning and Maintenance

The waffle plant is a low-stress houseplant that’s easy to maintain – perfect for the laissez-faire plant parent.

Repot whenever the root system has less than an inch of room on all sides. If the roots start sticking out the container’s drainage holes, then swift repotting becomes absolutely essential.

The leaves and spreading stems of S. alternata should be trimmed as needed to keep them compact and contained. Feel free to pinch budding blooms or growth tips to encourage bushiness.

Additionally, any dead, sick, diseased, or damaged leaves should be pruned whenever you notice them.

During the dormancy period of fall and winter, water needs will be significantly lessened, so make sure to keep your irrigation frequency flexible, even if you’ve gotten used to your specimen needing a drink at particular intervals.

Waffle Plant Cultivars to Select

If you thought a regular, run-of-the-mill S. alternata was the only variety of waffle plant available, prepare to have your world rocked.

Waffle Plant

Although the standard species is quite lovely – and is available from Wekiva Foliage via Walmart – there are a handful of cultivars that warrant your attention.

Belgian Waffle

Just like the taste of a Belgian waffle blows your standard waffle out of the water, ‘Belgian Waffle’ can put a regular waffle plant to shame.

Flaunting medium green leaves with creamy yellow margins of an irregular shape and thickness, ‘Belgian Waffle’ measures six inches tall and 12 inches wide at maturity.

More compact, colorful, and beautiful… props to whoever came up with the cultivar name, it’s right on the money!

Red Flame Ivy

It’s Opposite Day! Or you’ll at least think so, after laying eyes on ‘Red Flame Ivy.’

Similar to the standard species in size and form, this variety distinguishes itself with its flipped leaf colors: purple up top, green beneath. Proof that going against the current can result in success.

Snow White

Much like its namesake, ‘Snow White’ is strikingly beautiful, the fairest in all the land. But unlike the Disney character, you don’t have to be a hot prince to end up with ‘Snow White.’ What a relief!

Coming in at a compact six inches tall and 12 inches wide, this variety has very light green leaves, which also sport a delightful white and pink variegation.

These fair hues are a nice departure from the darker greens and purples of the standard species, in my opinion.

Managing Pests and Disease

Thankfully, indoor gardeners don’t have as many pests and diseases to worry about as their outdoor counterparts, especially if they keep their homes somewhat clean.

But as many houseplant parents have found out the hard way, issues can still occur indoors. Let’s talk about how to manage the ones most often afflicting S. alternata!

Insects

Even when they’re not consuming your houseplants, having a bunch of bugs in the home is no bueno. Let’s discuss how to manage them!

Aphids

A familiar foe for veteran green thumbs, aphids are small, translucent, and soft-bodied insects that extract sap from plants with their piercing-sucking mouthparts, which can cause chlorosis, leaf distortion, and stunted growth.

Additionally, aphids excrete honeydew as they feed, which can collect on stems and foliage and result in the formation of black sooty mold. Plus, if you happen to be close enough to notice, a dense infestation of crawling bugs isn’t the best look.

These pests also suck vital fluids from plants, Capri-Sun-style, leaving infested specimens with chlorosis, wilting leaves, and stunted growth.

They also excrete that pleasant-sounding, yet nasty honeydew as they feed, which can lead to black sooty mold. Plus, large groups of scale can build up in conspicuous, irritating bunches, like clusters of moles growing in your skin creases.

Sprays of horticultural oil and insecticidal soap will kill scale insects, while a flat, hard edge like that of a butter knife can be used to physically scrape them off.

For more scale control pointers, give our guide a read.

Whiteflies

Despite their white and fly-like appearance, whiteflies are actually more closely related to aphids and mealybugs than the true flies that hover around fresh-cut fruits.

Soft-bodied, tiny, and triangular in shape, whiteflies feed with piercing-sucking mouthparts too, leading to chlorosis, leaf curling, and leaf drop.

Preventing root rot is as simple as providing ample drainage and not overwatering from the get-go.

To reverse root rot, you will need doing those things immediately you notice symptoms, along with unpotting the specimen and pruning away any rotted roots.

But if more than half of the root system is rotted away, then the plant’s chances of survival are more grim than hopeful.

Best Uses for Waffle Plants

Whether you set it in a pot or a hanging basket, the waffle plant’s aesthetic strengths are its crinkly leaves and dark purple colors.

Therefore, putting it next to smooth-textured and more stereotypically green specimens should provide a nice visual contrast.

Its tropical look and love of humidity actually makes S. alternata a wonderful terrarium planting, if you keep it small enough.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Herbaceous perennial	Flower/Foliage Color:	White/green to purple
Native to:	Indonesia, India, Malaysia	Water Needs:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	10-11	Maintenance:	Low
Bloom Time/Season:	Spring-summer	Tolerance:	Drought, shade
Exposure:	Bright, indirect light	Soil Type:	Moist, rich
Time to Maturity:	At least 1 year	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Spacing:	Root ball 1 inch away from container edges	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Depth of root system (transplants)	Uses:	Ground cover, hanging baskets, houseplants, terrariums
Height:	6-9 inches	Order:	Lamiales
Spread:	12-18 inches	Family:	Acanthaceae
Growth Rate:	Slow	Genus:	Strobilanthes
Common Pests and Diseases:	Aphids, scale, whiteflies; root rot	Species:	Alternata

Don’t Waffle on the Waffle Plant

It’s easy to be indecisive, especially with all the different houseplants vying for room in your home. But you’ll definitely want to put S. alternata towards the front of your growing queue!

Their beautiful leaves and ease of care make growing waffle plants quite enjoyable. So be sure to pick up one or two and get the fun times rolling.

Curious about other aspects of waffle plant care? Have some hard-earned wisdom of your own to share? The comments section awaits!

Want to grow some other green-and-purple houseplants? Check out these guides next:

From erosion control to weed suppression, ground covers play an important role in the garden. They benefit neighboring plants by shading the ground, which helps keep soil cool and reduces moisture loss to evaporation. Many ground covers provide nectar to pollinators and shelter ground-dwelling insects and vertebrates. From an aesthetic standpoint, ground covers lend gardens a finished look. They can be used to emphasize focal points or to soften transitions between garden elements. Evergreen ground covers provide these services all year long, while creating a bridge from one season to the next. Here are a few fabulous evergreen ground covers for the Southwest.

Choose from these xeriscape favorites for hot, dry, and sunny locations

Thanks to the benefits they provide, ground covers have become staples of xeric and water-wise gardens. Among the most popular of these is hardy ice plant (Delosperma cooperi and cvs., Zones 6–10), a ground-hugging succulent that grows just 3 to 6 inches tall and spreads up to 2 feet wide. Gardeners and pollinators alike adore the brilliant magenta pink blooms, which cover plants from late spring through summer. Several cultivars and hybrids are available with varying flower colors.

Silver-edged horehound (Marrubium rotundifolium, Zones 4–9) makes a carpet of soft, wooly foliage that gently mounds up to 10 inches tall and spreads 1 to 2 feet wide. The foliage is white on the underside, and the leaf edges curl up to give the light green topsides a silver lining. Most gardeners choose to shear off the flowers, which are insignificant.

Pair silver-edged horehound with the germander sage (Salvia chamaedryoides and cvs., Zones 7–10), a more upright ground cover with fine silver-green foliage and vibrant blue blooms that attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Plants bloom over a long period, from late spring through fall. This semi-woody perennial is great for covering ground; it spreads 3 to 4 feet wide while maintaining a height of 1 to 2 feet.

All three of these ground covers thrive in hot, dry sites in full sun. They are adapted to sandy or rocky soils and require excellent drainage. Once established, these are hardy, drought-tolerant selections.

Consider these native ground covers for challenging sites

Native plants often provide the best solution for challenging areas. A variety of species make excellent evergreen ground covers. Damianita (Chrysactinia mexicana, Zones 7–11) has been gaining popularity throughout the Southwest thanks to its impressive floral displays. Blooming profusely in spring and fall, with sporadic blooms during the heat of summer, damianita creates a golden carpet when planted in mass. Plants grow up to 2 feet tall and wide and are extremely drought tolerant. For the best performance, place damianita in full sun and well-drained soil.

Orange Carpet^® creeping hummingbird trumpet (Zauschneria garrettii ‘PWWG01S’, Zones 5–9) is a native cultivar with a low-growing, trailing habit. Also commonly called California fuchsia, this subshrub species spreads like a ground cover, forming a loose mat of gently arching foliage. Orange Carpet^® features brilliant red-orange blooms that open mid to late summer and attract hummingbirds to the garden. Water during flowering encourages additional blooms. Give this plant full sun to partial shade and good drainage, and you will be handsomely rewarded.

Not all ground covers are petite. Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis and cvs., Zones 3–9) is widely planted as a ground cover, and for good reason: It covers a lot of space. Spreading 5 to 8 feet wide yet reaching only 12 to 18 inches tall, creeping juniper excels at stabilizing slopes and tackling erosion. Though native to Canada and the northern United States, this needled evergreen is heat and drought tolerant once established. It grows naturally in sandy or rocky soils and requires full sun and good drainage.

Another native shrub, creeping mahonia (Berberis repens and cvs., syn. Mahonia repens and cvs., Zones 5–9) provides excellent erosion control on slopes and banks. It is found primarily at higher elevations in coniferous forests. Plants spread by stolons, which help stabilize soil. Creeping mahonia grows 18 inches tall and wide. With yellow blooms from mid through late spring followed by clusters of blue-purple berries, this low-growing shrub attracts birds and other wildlife to the garden. Plant creeping mahonia in rich, well-draining soil in full to partial shade.

Evergreen ground covers integrate well with deciduous varieties as well as spring bulbs. Use them to line walkways, or plant them under shrubs and tall perennials. In areas with heavier soil, these selections work well in rock gardens and raised planters.

—Kim Toscano is a horticulturist based in Stillwater, Oklahoma. She previously hosted Oklahoma Gardening, a weekly PBS television program produced by the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service.

Cold frames are a great way to get a jump-start on or extend the gardening season. An easy way to get started with cold-frame growing is to put it to good use cultivating herbs through the winter months. Cold frames create a microclimate by utilizing the sun and insulation. This environment creates conditions so that plants grown inside are protected from frost and can take advantage of warmer soil. Though it takes a bit of effort to set up and maintain, it is well worth the reward of having fresh and flavorful herbs during the coldest months of the year. Even in a Midwest winter, you can grow fresh herbs that will tolerate this chilly but snug situation. Here are some tips and easy herbs to grow in a cold frame.

Cold-frame tips

If you don’t have a cold frame already, they are fairly easy to set up. An appropriately constructed cold frame can be purchased and assembled or done as a DIY project using new or repurposed materials.

• Picking plants that are cold hardy will help ensure success in cold-frame growing.
• Providing moisture is key to plant success.
• Put a thermometer in your cold frame to ensure that the temperature stays below 60°F during the day.
• Vent your cold frame on sunny or warmer days to prevent overheating.
• In cases of extreme cold, you can place an insulating cover over the cold frame at night to keep the plants cozy.
• Snow can act as extra insulation in the case of extreme cold weather. But make sure to remove it when temps rise so that the plants can receive the sunlight they need.

Chives are easy to start in or transplant into a cold frame

Fresh chives (Allium schoenoprasum and cvs., Zones 4–8) have myriad uses in the kitchen, and this includes our winter recipes. Cold-tolerant chives can actually be sown in the spring and will continue to provide fresh growth (remove the flowers) well into winter. However, you can also transplant your chives into the cold frame in fall or plant/sink a container of chives into the cold frame as well.

Potted mints will produce fresh, new leaves when grown in a winter cold frame

The wide range of mints (Mentha spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) that we can grow in the Midwest is impressive, as is their reliability as vigorous perennials. Do be wary of their propensity to spread; they are often best grown in pots. Even so, with repeated frosts ending the outdoor season for mints, existing pots (or newly potted divisions) can be sunk into the soil within your cold-frame soil with just the rim of the pot exposed. This added ground insulation will allow your mints to tolerate temperature extremes and continue to produce new leaves that can be utilized throughout the winter.

Parsley from a cold frame is great for winter soups and stews

Fresh parsley (Petroselinum crispum and cvs., Zones 5–9) certainly makes a nice garnish, but it also serves as an excellent culinary ingredient throughout the year—including in winter soups, stews, and other comfort-food dishes. Technically biennial, curled and flatleaf parsley selections are both very cold hardy and will continue to provide new leaves when grown in a cold frame.

Even more herbs to grow in your cold frame

Of course, there are many other herbs. Once you get the hang of winter cold-frame gardening, it will be fun to add to your herb lineup. Achieving a balance of humidity and proper air circulation will continue to be important for your success. With a little research, though, you can discover additional methods for growing more herbs in your winter cold frame—including the following:

1. Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum and cvs., annual)
2. Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare and cvs., Zones 4–9)
3. Oregano (Origanum vulgare and cvs., Zones 4–8)
4. Sage (Salvia officinalis and cvs., Zones 4–8)
5. Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus and cvs., Zones 8–11)
6. Winter savory (Satureja montana and cvs., Zones 5–8)
7. Thyme (Thymus vulgaris and cvs., Zones 5–9)

—Mark Dwyer is the garden manager for the Edgerton Hospital Healing Garden in Edgerton, Wisconsin, and he operates Landscape Prescriptions by MD.

I read recently that ancient Greece–inspired and Mediterranean décor was the next big thing in interior design. Perhaps many of you will feel inspired to add a marble bust to your fireplace mantle. But what about Mediterranean plants? In the Southeast, plants that prefer a Mediterranean climate are not always at home. Humidity and wet winters—not just the cold—are normally the downfall of these plants. But there are some Mediterranean staples that we can grow very well in our region. They are not always extremely long-lived but can be enjoyed in the garden while they last.

One of my favorite long-lasting Mediterranean plants for the Southeast is rosemary (Salvia sosmarinus syn. Rosmarinus officinalis, Zones 8–11). This is a beautiful plant for the landscape and has been used for hundreds of years in the kitchen for its unique flavor profile. I consider rosemary a subshrub in our region. Most cultivars reach 2 to 4 feet tall over time. Few other plants can offer the combination of evergreen foliage, attractive blooms, and fragrance you find with rosemary.

How to Grow Rosemary in the Southeast

Because rosemary is on the edge of hardiness for many of us, plant it in late spring in the Southeast. This gives the plant the entirety of the growing season to get established. For most, the month of May is ideal. Cool, wet soil and temperature fluctuations can be hard on unestablished plants. Good drainage and full sun are the key ingredients to growing rosemary. Plant rosemary slightly above grade, mounding soil up to the roots. This will help with drainage, especially during winter. If you have a sunny hillside, this is an ideal location.

If you want to grow rosemary for culinary use, know that the very light pruning required to grab a few sprigs won’t hurt the plant. If you want to be heavy-handed with pruning, timing becomes more important. If substantial pruning is desired, early June is a good window of time. Pruning in late summer or early fall can be disastrous and cause new growth susceptible to damage in winter. Additionally, pruning too early in spring before the soil warms is often a death sentence for this warm weather–loving plant. As plants age, woody stems start to develop. Plants will not respond favorably to being cut back into their woody stem sections and leaving no foliage. Cutting rosemary too far back into its woody growth can cause stems to die.

Cultivar Selection Is Key in the Southeast

You may have already taken note that rosemary is listed as hardy in Zones 8-11. This is accurate for most rosemary. Being in Zone 8 means that average lows rarely drop below 10°F. Many of us in the northern Southeast experience temperatures below 10°F yearly. This is where cultivar selection is very important. There are several rosemary cultivars known to survive in Zones 6 and 7 and to persist for many years. If the bloom is important, you may want to explore multiple cultivars. Different cultivars may bloom at wildly different times. There are early-season and late-season bloomers. If taste is important, different cultivars are also known to have slightly different flavors. This can be important if you like to cook with rosemary.

Rosemary is a wonderful plant to add to any full-sun garden. I particularly enjoy planting rosemary along garden paths. Brushing your hand against this aromatic herb enlivens your senses as you travel through the garden. If your primary goal is using rosemary for cooking, I suggest trying the taste of different cultivars before planting. The distinct camphor-pine herbiness of rosemary’s natural oil is stronger with individual cultivars. Rosemary is also reported to have a variety of health benefits. Below is a list of some of the top cultivar selections you can make in the Southeast.

Top Cultivars for the Southeast

‘Arp’ rosemary

Salvia rosmarinus ‘Arp’ syn. Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Arp’, Zones 6–11

‘Arp’ grows 4 feet tall and wide. It has an open habit but can be kept denser with properly timed pruning. Featuring gray-green leaves with a heavy pine taste, it sports bright blue to purple flowers. This cultivar is hardy to –10°F. It was selected in 1972 from plants growing in Arp, Texas, by Madalene Hill.

‘Salem’ rosemary

Salvia rosmarinus ‘Salem’ syn. Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Salem’, Zones 7–11

‘Salem’ grows 2 feet tall and wide. It does not seem to be as hardy as ‘Arp’ or ‘Madeline Hill’ but is known to be more tolerant of wet soil. This is a plant that is popular in moist areas of the Pacific Northwest. Overall it’s a more formal-looking rosemary with a nice flavor. I have seen it growing comfortably in Zone 7.

‘Madeline Hill’ rosemary

Salvia rosmarinus ‘Madeline Hill’ syn. Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Madeline Hill’, Zones 6–11

‘Madeline Hill’ rosemary, which is also known as ‘Hill Hardy’ or ‘Hill’s Hardy’, reaches 3 to 4 feet tall and wide. Hardy to at least 0°F, this plant was discovered as a sport (naturally occurring mutation) of ‘Arp’ rosemary. It’s a more compact, denser plant with greener foliage. It was named ‘Madeline Hill’ after Madalene Hill, who discovered ‘Arp’ (although it is spelled differently). After ‘Arp,’ this is perhaps the second most cold-hardy rosemary plant on the market.

‘Tuscan Blue’ rosemary

Salvia rosmarinus ‘Tuscan Blue’ syn. Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Tuscan Blue’, Zones 8–11

‘Tuscan Blue’ is an attractive rosemary with very aromatic leaves and dark blue flowers. It grows 6 to 7 feet tall and has an upright habit. This rosemary is probably the best one to grow strictly for aesthetics. ‘Tuscan Blue’ was introduced prior to 1948 from Tuscany, Italy. It’s not as hardy as other rosemary cultivars mentioned here, but it is a very fast grower.

Prostrate rosemary

Salvia rosmarinus ‘Prostratus’ syn. Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’, Zones 7–11

This low-growing, creeping form of rosemary stays under a foot tall. There are several weeping forms of rosemary sold under different names (perhaps many of which are the same plant); ‘Huntington Carpet’ is another often-sold prostrate form. Extremely attractive draping over walls and rock, prostrate rosemary will need some protection and good drainage to survive. The taste has less of a camphor flavor than that of other selections. This plant’s hardiness may be an issue for colder regions of the Southeast.

If you provide for their basic needs and choose a smart cultivar for your zone, you’ll find that rosemary may reward you in many ways. Apart from its culinary value, it makes an attractive subshrub in the landscape with its beautiful textured foliage and cute purple flowers.

For more Southeast regional reports, click here.

Andy Pulte is a faculty member in the plant sciences department at the University of Tennessee.

Photos, unless otherwise noted: Andy Pulte

After a long winter nothing brings more joy than seeing the first signs of spring. With a little planning and patience, you can amplify and enhance this feeling of delight by incorporating masses of minor bulbs into a lawn or garden bed. Here are a few of the tiny, lesser-known treasures that can be used to flood almost any garden with color before the trees leaf out in spring:

Minor bulbs look best en masse

Because the flowers and foliage of minor bulbs are small, aim big when you plant them. Larger bulbs are often purchased and planted in groups of dozens or perhaps hundreds, but minor bulbs planted by the hundreds or even thousands will make the biggest impact. Most of the varieties listed will produce seed and naturalize to create dense carpets of vibrant color over time. Plant a single species to create a dramatic effect, or mix different varieties together to create dynamic combinations that become richer over time as seedings take root and increase the number of flowers. If you wish to create specific combinations of bulbs that blend together, it may be useful to outline your planting areas with different colors of spray paint.

Find a location where your bulbs will thrive

A great place to site your planting is under the canopy of large deciduous trees, where the turf may be sparse due to a lack of light in midsummer. Another ideal location is in large or even small lawn areas, a planting style sometimes known as a bulb meadow. One caveat when incorporating naturalized bulbs into a lawn: in order for the bulbs to proliferate, you’ll either need to avoid mowing until the bulb foliage senesces or adjust your mower height to a minimum of 4 inches to avoid cutting the majority of bulb foliage. Minor bulbs work equally well in mixed border plantings where other later emerging and blooming perennials will help to cover up the declining bulb foliage.

Planting minor bulbs is a simple process

Due to their small size, shallow holes are all that is needed. The rule of thumb for planting all bulbs is that the distance from the top of the bulb to the soil surface should be two times the height of the bulb. For example, if a bulb is 1 inch tall, it should be planted in a hole that is 3 inches deep.

When spacing small bulbs there is no need to be fussy. After blending a bulb combination together in a large bucket, simply scatter handfuls of bulbs across the designated planting area and tuck them into the ground where they fall for a naturalistic effect.

With the wide selection of minor bulbs on the market the sky is the limit when it comes to creating dynamic tapestries of early spring color. I encourage you to be bold, be creative, and try a few unusual combinations of these little garden gems that pack a large punch.

—Adam Glas is a garden supervisor and rosarian at the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College in Swarthmore, Pennsylvania.

Photos, except where noted: Adam Glas

To see a reader’s garden filled with early color, check out Margot’s Winter Garden

For more information on planting and designing with spring-blooming bulbs, check out these articles:

Birdhouses are a great way to support birds, but did you know you can make a birdhouse from an autumn gourd? It’s simple and easy.

Supplies needed

• A large gourd with a long neck, like a gooseneck or bottle gourd
• A wire brush or sandpaper
• A large container to soak the gourd
• Bleach
• A drill
• A 1½- to 2-inch drill bit
• A ¼-inch drill bit
• A marker
• Chopsticks or long tweezers
• Waterproof spray paint or other finish appropriate for wood
• Bendy wire, such as picture-frame wire

Steps for creating your birdhouse

1. It’s easy to come across gourds for sale at plant nurseries and grocery stores during autumn. Choose your gourd, and then dry it out over winter. To dry the gourd, place it in a cool, dry place, such as a shed, garage, or cellar. If you’re drying multiple gourds, make sure they don’t touch each other. It’s OK to expose a gourd to freezing temperatures as long as it doesn’t get wet.
2. Check on your gourd periodically, rotating it occasionally. It’s normal for it to develop mold on its skin, but a gourd that starts to shrivel or collapse on itself is rotting and should be discarded. It should take a gourd several weeks to dry out. A gourd that is completely dried should have a hard exterior and be very lightweight. When you shake it, you should hear the seeds rattling around inside.
3. When your gourd has dried, begin to remove the mold with wire brush and sandpaper. Wear a mask to protect yourself from mold particles.
4. Soak the gourd in a 10% solution of bleach and water, and scrub it with a wire brush again. This should remove much of the skin as well as any lingering mold. After this step is completed, allow the gourd to dry.
5. To turn the dried gourd into a birdhouse, you will first need to drill a hole using a drill and a hole-saw drill bit. Different-sized holes will attract different birds, but a hole that is 1½ to 2 inches in diameter will work for most small species of bird. Birds will be able to enter the birdhouse through this hole without a perch.
6. Drill holes in the bottom and sides of the gourd for drainage and ventilation. Use a small drill bit for this, such as a ¼-inch bit. Drill through the top of the gourd so that you can hang it up.
7. To clean out the interior of the gourd, use chopsticks or long tweezers to scrape the dried pulp and seeds from the inside of the gourd and pull them through or shake them out of the opening. You don’t have to remove all of the pulp and seeds, but you should try to remove most of them. If you have access to an air compressor, you can use it to blow out the insides of the gourd.
8. To protect the gourd from the elements, you will need to cover it in some sort of finish. Spray paint is an easy and cheap method of providing waterproof sealing, but you could also use any other finish appropriate for wood. Pick an attractive color, or use a clear spray paint for a more natural look.
9. To hang the birdhouse, use a bendy wire you can twist—such as picture-frame wire—to thread through the holes at the top of the gourd.
10. Find a spot in your yard to hang up the gourd where you can observe birds coming and going. And enjoy your birdhouse for many seasons to come.

More seasonal crafts

Strawflower Ornaments 

How to Build a Birdfeeder Wreath

How to Make a Holiday Garden Gnome

Diana Koehm is the assistant editor for Fine Gardening.

Mexican President Andrés Manuel López Obrador is throwing down the gauntlet when it comes to corn, pitting food sovereignty against the country’s trade agreements.

His proposed ban on genetically modified corn has upset U.S. corn farmers, trade groups and officials and has prompted the U.S. to establish a third party dispute panel to help resolve the disagreement. And yet, López Obrador gives no signs of backing off — making it clear he believes corn, or maize, is a cultural touchstone worth fighting for.

“We will continue campaigning against junk foods that affect our health, including GMO corn,” López Obrador said in a speech given in Spanish earlier this year. “We must first take care of our health and protect native corn varieties.”

Mexico is considered the birthplace of maize, which is still the most extensive crop grown in the country. There are dozens of native corn varieties and many efforts in place to protect them. “Sin Maíz No Hay País,” which translates to “Without Corn, There Is No Country,” is a campaign and phrase used to garner support for protecting native corn varieties.

“Corn is quintessentially Mexican,” said Diego Marroquín Bitar, a fellow for the U.S.-Mexico Foundation, a non-profit that promotes trade between the two countries. “It plays a really important role in the construction of the Mexican identity, and I think that’s where the president comes from.”

López Obrador recently released a revised draft of Mexico’s national food production standard, stipulating that no genetically modified white corn is to be used in corn dough, or masa, for tortillas and tostadas.

Today Susan Warde is letting us visit her St. Paul, Minnesota, garden. She was inspired by the posts from Cherry and me looking back at “the summer that was” in our gardens, and so she did the same in her garden! We’re going to see her front garden today and the back garden tomorrow. I hope you’ll share your “summer that was” in your garden as well! It is fun seeing how everyone’s plants have performed throughout the year.

April 27: Crocuses and wildflowers come up in early April in chilly Minnesota, but the garden only starts looking like one when the scilla (Scilla siberica, Zones 3–8) and ‘Royal Star’ magnolias (Magnolia stellata ‘Royal Star’, Zones 4–9) come into bloom.

May 16: Here’s the sundial (seen in the background in the former photo), surrounded by midsize bearded irises (‘Cherry Garden’) and an unknown heuchera that I bought at a yard sale. It produces starry white flowers for much of the summer. You can see a bit of prairie smoke (Geum triflorum, Zones 3–7) at either side of the photo. The scilla are done blooming, but the foliage is not yet wilted and yellow. By the time that happens, other plants will have covered up the unsightly leaves.

May 21: The azaleas (Rhododendron hybrids) are just coming into bloom. These are from the Northern Lights series, bred at the University of Minnesota to be fully hardy in cold climates (some down to –40°F). Mine are in yellows and pinks, but there are also some show-stopping orange and flame varieties. The little pink flowers to the left of the walk are primroses (Primula sieboldii, Zones 5–7). The small tree to the right of the front door is a Zone 4–hardy Korean-Japanese maple hybrid (Acer× pseudosieboldianum, ’North Wind’).

June 5: This is the place where the front garden becomes the side garden, though actually there are no clear boundaries. A ‘Honey Gold’ peony (Paeonia ‘Honey Gold’, Zones 3–8) is in the foreground. The fern to the right of the peony is narrow-leaved spleenwort (Diplazium pycnocarpon, Zones 3–8). In the same garden are irises: Siberian (Iris pseudacorus) and a tall bearded iris (‘Sultry Mood’). The beginning of the back garden can be seen at the top of the photo.

June 27: An enormous white-flowered hosta (a gift from a neighbor) takes center stage. The spiky leaves of Iris pseudacorus (Zones 5–9) are in the foreground.

July 23: The tall white lilies with gold centers are Lilium ‘Conca d’or’ (Zones 4–8). I had them for about six years. They are gorgeous and fragrant but so dramatic that I felt they detracted from the rest of the garden. I gave them away and have now substituted lilies that I hope will fit in better. The tall pinky-lavender blooms are from an Astilbe.

July 29: This is the part of the garden seen in the fourth photo, now dominated by blazing star (Liatris, Zones 3–8), black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia, Zones 3–8), and coneflowers (Echinacea, Zones 4–8).

July 31: I don’t plant any annuals, but July is truly an over-the-top month in the garden even without them. Here’s the sundial seen before, and now the heuchera are in bloom. The gold daylilies are Hemerocallis ‘Erin Lea’ (Zones 4–9). Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum × superbum, Zones 5–9) and phlox (Phlox paniculata, Zones 4–9) are also flowering at this time.

September 12: Angelica gigas (Zones 4–8) is just beginning to go to seed. It’s a biennial. The little first-year plants can be moved if they appear in awkward places. This specimen is by the wall that separates the garden from the public sidewalk, and people often stop and examine the flowers (and the many bees and wasps that visit). In the background is a 40-year-old white pine (Pinus strobus, Zones 3–8) with a climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris, Zones 4–8) scrambling up the trunk.

October 22: Last winter, rabbits girdled two of the three stems of a serviceberry planted here next to the porch, and by midsummer two of them had died. I planted this ‘Royal Raindrops’ crabapple (Malus sp.) instead. (Its burgundy foliage can be seen on the left side of the porch in the previous photo.) By October the foliage had turned a brilliant orange. I’m looking forward to its magenta-pink flowers next spring.

Have a garden you’d like to share?

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With the flurry of the holidays bearing down upon us, now is the perfect time to make a list of winter garden tasks to accomplish over the coming months. I find that if I wait until the longest, dreariest part of the year is upon me, I lose sight of what needs doing to get the garden properly poised for the “on-season.” At this point, the garden may look like a sodden mess from the window. When there is a dry day and the sun is peeking through the clouds, it’s the perfect opportunity to rush outside and check some tasks off your winter to-do list. One of the most exciting things about spring is that it happens one day at a time, so if you are in the garden in the “off-season” you’ll get to see it unfolding. Here are some fall and winter garden tasks to do this month and throughout the three phases of winter.

Late Fall/Early Winter Garden Tasks

Cut back grasses

Most of the ornamental grasses are pretty much in shambles by now. The birds have feasted on the seed heads, and most of the foliage is broken or collapsed. Now is the time to cut these plants back. My favorite tool for this task is a cordless hedge trimmer. It makes quick work of the dried floppy stems and gets a nice neat base. If your grasses need to be reduced this is also the perfect time to cut around the edges with a sharp spade to remove some growth. Or you can cut the entire plant in half and replant the other half in another spot.

Document and reroute runoff

With the return of frequent rains, now is the time to take note of areas where excessive rain has pooled or caused rivulets to cut into the ground. Some redirecting of the excess water should be done now to ensure that the rain keeps flowing off the planting beds and the soil doesn’t become supersaturated. Take pictures of any area where water settles and remains for more than a day after a rainfall. These areas can be fixed in spring by providing better drainage and changing slopes.

Midwinter Garden Tasks

Prune certain plants

This task also includes pruning deciduous trees. The structure is very easy to see without the leaves on them. Remember the three Ds of pruning: dead, diseased, and damaged. Those are the first branches to go, and then move on to the fine pruning. This includes shaping, reducing the height, and creating space throughout the branches and around neighboring trees and shrubs so that each tree stands alone without crowding. Winter pruning encourages spring growth, while summer pruning controls growth. There are good tutorials online and great books on the subject to help give you confidence in pruning tasks.

Late-Winter Garden Tasks

Remove excess leaves

Clean up any leftover leaves that have scattered into the garden beds as spring approaches. Insects can overwinter on dying foliage, so I often leave fall leaf drop on many of my beds. This helps protect the soil from runoff and keeps weeds down too. But in late winter/early spring it’s time to remove those leaves and put them into a leaf mold pile. Any plant that is susceptible to fungus, mildew, or insect pests (think roses) needs to have the remaining leaves around it pulled away. The base of the plant should have no debris around it at all. Top the beds off with a thin layer of organic mulch that has been composted around your dormant plants (so it will be available for feeding the roots when they wake up). This mulch keeps any soil from splashing back on stems and causing disease.

Put down slug bait

Toward the end of winter is usually when I put my first slug bait out into the garden. I use a natural pet/wildlife-friendly one, but you can use whatever is most effective in your garden. It is important to use it before you see the first sign of damage. This keeps the slug population from growing quickly. Even snowdrops (Galanthus spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8) can be eaten by slugs.

Share spring photos to encourage other gardeners

Our gardens in the Pacific Northwest often wake up earlier than those in much of the rest of the country. Early snowdrops start pushing through the soil. Witch hazels (Hamamelis spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8) begin pushing out spiky orange, yellow, and red flowers, while paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha and cvs., Zones 7–10) buds fatten up and eventually burst open. Before you go back indoors, take a look around and see what is emerging in your garden. Then share your finds with others—not everyone experiences spring as early as we do!

Susan Calhoun is the owner of Plantswoman Design in Bainbridge Island, Washington.

You may have noticed that the Rocky Mountain region—especially if you moved here from either coast or the South—is notably lacking in broadleaf evergreens. That is because these evergreens are more prone to burn from both winter sun and wind—as well as to suffer winter water loss—than deciduous woody plants or needled evergreens. As a result, gardeners in our region must select and site such woody plants more thoughtfully than gardeners in other regions. Of course, what we call “Rocky Mountain” is really more like two regions: one that reliably retains winter snow cover, and one that does not. The three broadleaf evergreen natives described here, however, do well in a variety of gardens and exposures.

Learn more: How to Protect Broadleaf Evergreens from Winter Damage.

Siting Broadleaf Evergreens for Success

In winter-dry gardens, avoid siting broadleaf evergreens in locations that receive winter sun all day; the east face of a house, for example, is ideal. Winter snow cover reduces winter stress on evergreen plants, so gardens that retain snow cover can feature broadleaf evergreens in a greater diversity of sites with less work. Regardless, these sumptuous, structural garden additions add vibrance to our outdoor worlds when we appreciate it most and are worth the modest investment.

During establishment, irrigate all three of these plants regularly, and mulch with leaf, wood, or gravel mulch.

Rocky Mountain gardens that retain winter snow cover can host these plants in a variety of sites with relatively little winter upkeep.

Gardeners in snowless areas should site broadleaf evergreen plants where they receive a bit of shade in the afternoon. It is also a good idea to water them in winter.

Daphne

Daphne × burkwoodii ‘Carol Mackie’

Zones: 4–8

Size: 4 feet wide and 4 feet tall

One of our most striking broadleaf evergreens remains the classic ‘Carol Mackie’ daphne. With a superb branch structure and restrained growth that gives it a shapely form, it’s an easy choice for semi-formal gardens and tighter settings where large or ramble-prone woodies just won’t do. Teardrop-shape leaves with variegated edges just ooze taste, and come spring, the plant delights with an effusive bloom of four-petaled, soft-pink flowers. As if that isn’t enough, they’re fragrant—so deliciously so that a friend of mine insists on a ‘Carol Mackie’ specimen by the door everywhere they’ve lived, an insistence I wholeheartedly support. A few words for success on this one: Don’t plant ‘Carol Mackie’ in a clay that sits wet, and site thoughtfully; this shrub despises transplant. Hardy to Zone 4, the plants reach 4 feet high and wide in ideal conditions with age.

Littleleaf mountain mahogany

Cercocarpus ledifolius var. intricatus

Zones: 3–10

Size: 5 feet wide and 8 feet tall

This plant fits into a category we in horticulture sometimes call “workhorse” plants. They won’t dazzle with a flashy bloom or fragrance, and they won’t stop you at the nursery; they demonstrate their value in other ways—in this case, by sheer toughness. Littleleaf mountain mahogany doesn’t care what kind of soil it’s grown in, or how much it’s watered after establishment. In fact, this Cercocarpus will not thrive in a heavily irrigated, amended garden soil once established.

Taking an oval shape to around 5 feet, littleleaf mountain mahogany is a deer-proof (as much as any plant can be) plant that looks as good in January as it does in June. This fine-textured plant is xeric thanks to high-desert origins and is cold hardy, too, unfazed well into Zone 3. Unsurprisingly, it prefers full sun. Thanks to a dense, slow growth habit, it requires virtually no pruning, makes a good screen for an outdoor living space, and makes a good hiding space for local songbirds.

Manzanita

Arctostaphylos × coloradensis

Zones: 5–8

Size: 5 feet wide by 2 feet tall

An easy choice for gardens in Zone 5 and warmer, our native manzanitas have quickly become regional staples when it comes to tough and dapper shrub options. Reaching just over 2 feet tall with age, plants ramble to cover 4 or more feet across. They present with poise in the garden, adorned in unusually dark green, glossy leaves above beautiful, cinnamon-colored exfoliating bark. Thanks to precocious flowers, manzanitas provide a very early nectar source for flying insects. The attractive red berries formed on plants in this group are the source of the plant’s common name, which is Spanish for “little apple.” Be warned, however, that while these plants do fine on coarser soils, they do struggle in some clays. If you have clay soil but want to try growing a manzanita, consider a berm; that has done the trick for me.

Bonus plant
	Gardeners in regions much colder than Zone 5 should consider sticking to the extra cold-hardy parent of A. × coloradoensis, called Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (kinninnick or bearberry), which remains a ground cover but is hardy to Zone 2.

See more native plants for the Mountain West

Native Tree Species for the Rocky Mountain Region

Native Shrubs That Do It All in the Mountain West

Native Annuals and Biennials for Rocky Mountain Gardens

Bryan Fischer lives and gardens at the intersection of the Great Plains and the Rockies. He is a horticulturist and the curator of plant collections for a local botanic garden.

Late fall and early winter can be a drab time in northeastern gardens. Most of the leaves have faded from the trees, and the perennial border is looking mushy and brown. What’s a gardener to do? Luckily, there are many plants that look great at this time of year. The following are a few trees and shrubs that might be lesser known but are worth adding to your garden for a late-season show.

Szechuan pepper

Zanthoxylum simulans, Zones 5b–9

There is just something about having a shrub in your garden that is interesting, useful, and not that common. Zanthoxylum is a genus that you may not be familiar with, but if you are a foodie, or maybe of Chinese descent, than you are in on the surprise. The berries of the plants from the Zanthoxylum species (all are known commonly as Szechuan peppercorns) are a sensation to be experienced. You might have encountered them in authentic Szechuan restaurants (Mapo tofu, anyone?). They cause your taste buds to feel as if they are being electrocuted—but in a good way.

The surprising thing is that Szechuan pepper (or prickly ash) is hardy in many northeastern gardens. It’s hardly a novelty because it’s also a pretty shrub. Sure, it’s thorny, but no more so than a hybrid tea rose, and it’s really all about the late autumn display here. As the foliage turns golden and drops, it’s the glossy red fruits that shine, cracking open to release their black seeds and distinctive fragrance. Yes, you can pick them and dry them or use them fresh in your kitchen adventures. This may be a shrub that is more about adding early winter interest and usefulness to your garden than, let’s say, another hydrangea might bring. But don’t we all need an extra boost of garden interest in the short days of November and December?

White beautyberry

Callicarpa dichotoma f. albifructa, Zones 5–8

While many of us are seduced by the brilliant berries of various purple beautyberry species and cultivars, their more demure, yet lovely sister, white beautyberry, is not as familiar. Hardy through Zone 5, this shrub is in so many ways the more beautiful beautyberry, especially if the weather remains mild in autumn (as a hard freeze will turn the berries tan). In my garden, the pure white berries make this Callicarpa the star of the late autumn garden.

Like so many shrubs with late-season interest, it can look rather ordinary the rest of the year, but as any beautyberry owner knows, to get the lovely long arching branches full of berries, you must cut the entire plant back to the ground every spring anyway. With a show like this, it’s easy to justify waiting until November and December for such a striking display.

Eternal Fragrance^® daphne

Daphne × transatlantica ‘Blafra’, Zones 5–9

Each year I try to photograph my daphne in bloom during each month of the year. This is a shrub that even in my cold Zone 5 garden has some flowers sporadically on it in every month of the year. Astounding as that is, its main bloom period is still in early spring and again in November when the intensely fragrant blooms take over the show from even the late fall foliage.

I was given a seedling of Daphne × transatlantica a decade ago by a friend, and while my plant is lovely, it is a bit floppy, as some daphnes can be. Yet it persists. Even after heavy snows have bent the stems and when all seems lost, it recovers and blooms with even more vigor. Thankfully others have caught on, and there are now named selections that offer better habits and performance. Look for Eternal Fragrance^® that promises semi-evergreen foliage and a more mounded growth habit from 2 to 3 feet tall and wide.

Japanese stewartia

Stewartia pseudocamellia, Zones 5–8

Japanese stewartia is not a tree with many faults. Heck, the only ones I can think of are that its flowers drop like fried eggs, which means you should never plant it over a deck or poolside, and its seedpods are worse than Lego pieces when you’re barefoot. These are no reason, however, to avoid planting what may be the most awesome small tree ever.

My Japanese stewartia, which grows at the corner of my front porch and the street, is the one plant that I get the most comments about in winter. You might be familiar with this stewartia, as it is often recommended as a summer-blooming tree, with its large, white camellia-like flowers that bloom in June. Yet to be perfectly honest, as lovely as those flowers are each year, competition is high in the garden in June, and you can almost miss them. If only stewartia bloomed in February when its cousins, the camellias (Camellia spp. and cvs., Zones 6–10), do.

Winter just happens to be when those who are fortunate to own a Japanese stewartia discover its secret gift, and it isn’t flowers at all. In fall, Japanese stewartia puts on a display with gorgeous red fading foliage. But in the off-season, stewartia bark alone is stunning; it’s almost as if you crossed a eucalyptus tree (Eucalyptus spp. and cvs., Zones 8–11), with its multicolored trunks, and a sycamore tree (Platanus occidentalis, Zones 4–9), with its camouflage-colored bark that always gets attention. “What is that camouflage tree in your front yard?” people ask me all winter long.

Landscape designers call the sort of branching exhibited by Japanese stewartia “muscular,” as the smooth bark wraps skin-tight over the undulating trunks, reflecting light and glistening with various colors that range from tan, to orange, to brown.

As if that were not enough, the tree’s overall form and silhouette are more attractive in winter than that of nearly any other shrub or tree. How many of us can say that in winter? Japanese stewartia specimens might even be posing just to get extra points, because each branch appears as if an artist sketched it. Every twig, even the tiniest one, is attractive enough to be snipped off with secateurs and maybe added to complement a display of greens in a winter window box or a holiday wreath, or plunged into gravel to hold paperwhites erect.

Any one of these shrubs or trees could wow your neighbors this year with something a little out of the ordinary. Whether you are looking for berries, fall color, late-season flowers, or stunning bark, spice up your off-season with something more unusual this year.

For more fall and winter interest, check out:

And for more Northeast regional reports, click here.

Matt Mattus is the author of two books: Mastering the Art of Flower Gardening and Mastering the Art of Vegetable Gardening. He gardens in Worcester, Massachusetts.

Photos, unless otherwise noted: Matt Mattus