If you’re anything like me, you spend at least a portion of the winter dreaming of the glory of the coming summer’s garden. I plan and plot, but most of the actual work won’t start until the spring.
But there are a few gardening tasks that I can begin during the winter months to get a jump on the growing season.
It gives me that gardening fix I crave, and it helps me to prepare my upcoming magical summer garden. Starting gladiolus corms early is one of those tasks that I look forward to.
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As late winter rolls around, I start planting so I can enjoy the colorful gladiolus flowers earlier than if I planted them directly outdoors.
This guide will give you the knowledge you need to start your corms and move them to the garden when the timing is right.
Here’s what we’ll go over with that goal in mind:
How to Start Gladiolus Indoors
To be clear, gladiolus have corms, not bulbs. But many gardeners refer to them as “bulbs,” so we’ll being using the terms interchangeably in this guide.
Spring can’t come early enough, as far as I’m concerned. So let’s not wait one minute more!
Prepare the Corms
Four to six weeks before the last predicted frost date in your area, prepare the corms.
Whether you purchase new bulbs to plant or you’re restarting some that you lifted in the fall and kept in storage, you need to prepare them for planting.
Some retailers won’t carry gladiolus during the off season but others have them in stock, so if you’re buying new, it pays to shop around.
Brush off any dirt from the overwintered bulbs with a soft, dry brush. Divide up any large clumps. Purchased bulbs should be clean and already divided up for you.
You can optionally set the corms in water overnight to encourage them to open up and start growing.
Either submerge them entirely or just set the base in the water. This just speeds up the sprouting process, but it’s not essential.
Planting
Fill a flat or a container that’s at least eight inches deep with fresh, water-retentive potting mix.
If you have lots of gladiolus corms, consider using a large storage bin – 18-gallon or larger. Just remember to put it in place before you start filling it up, because it’s going to be heavy to move.
You might even want to put the container on casters or in a wagon if you don’t have friends around to help you haul it.
Plant the corms approximately two to four inches deep, depending on the size, as you’ll want them twice as deep as the length of the corm. Make sure the pointy end is facing upwards.
Water the medium well so that it’s moist but not soaking wet or soggy.
Care
Place the container in a warm, sunny spot indoors that receives at least six hours of direct sun and keep the soil moist.
Allow the top inch of the soil to dry out between watering.
Be cautious if you’re using a large storage container, because it’s easy to add too much water to the point where the soil starts becoming soggy at the bottom of the container, which can lead to rot.
Within a few weeks to a month, you should see new growth popping out of the soil.
Moving Outdoors
Once the nighttime temperatures are at least 60°F and the gladiolus plants have at least three leaves, you can bring them outdoors.
Before you can put them in the soil and soak up the beauty, you need to harden the plants off as they’re used to the easy life of an indoor environment.
To harden them off, take the growing container outside and set it in or near the spot where the gladiolus will eventually be planted. Leave the pot there for an hour and then bring it back inside.
The next day, leave it out there for two hours before bringing it in.
You’re going to need a helper with a strong back if you used a large storage container! You can probably skip ab day after the workout you’re going to have.
Keep adding an hour each day until the plants can stay outside for a full eight hours.
At this point you can transplant your gladiolus.
Prepare the planting area by digging enough holes for all your corms. It’s better to dig a larger hole than you think you’ll need so you don’t have to try and wedge the corm into it.
Gently push your hands into the soil and dig down underneath the roots of each plant. You can also use a trowel, but I like to use my hands because I can really feel the root system and it helps to avoid damaging the roots.
Lift the gladiolus out of the soil and place it in the ground. The corm should be sitting at the same depth as it was in the growing container. Repeat until all your corms are in the ground.
Firm the soil up around the corms and water in well. You might need to add a little more soil if it settles.
If you can’t wait for spring to get started, starting gladiolus indoors will give you the leg up you’re craving. You can use this method for other non-hardy bulb species like cannas and dahlias.
What are your big garden plans this year? Will you be blending your gladiolus with other flowers? Are you growing a cut flower garden? Share in the comments section below!
Rachel made mashed yams for Christmas dinner and the color was amazing:
To the left is homemade breakfast sausage (from our own homestead pigs), with some mizuna mustard greens mixed in.
In the picture at the top of this post, the same mashed yams are presented next to a hickory smoked pork roast (also from our pigs).
The mashed yams were mostly from a large, white Dioscorea alata tuber, but they also had a few small pieces of purple ube yam mixed in, hence the amazing color.
Unlike sweet potatoes, these yams are starchy, not sweet, and can fill in for normal white potatoes.
To make mashed yams, just peel the yams, then chop them into chunks and boil them until they are fork-tender.
Then take them out of the water and mash them with some salt, milk (or cream), and butter.
That’s it! We’ve had friend visit who were unable to tell the difference between mashed potatoes and mashed yams.
This year I’m hoping to grow a lot of purple ube yams. We’re currently running two micro-propagation experiments where we cut small pieces of skin from roots and try to get it to sprout. It’s hard to find planting material here in the US so we’re trying to rapidly increase our stock for the spring. We’ll let you know if we can make it happen.
Finally, today is the third day of Christmas: the Feast of St. John the Apostle.
Rachel made mashed yams for Christmas dinner and the color was amazing:
To the left is homemade breakfast sausage (from our own homestead pigs), with some mizuna mustard greens mixed in.
In the picture at the top of this post, the same mashed yams are presented next to a hickory smoked pork roast (also from our pigs).
The mashed yams were mostly from a large, white Dioscorea alata tuber, but they also had a few small pieces of purple ube yam mixed in, hence the amazing color.
Unlike sweet potatoes, these yams are starchy, not sweet, and can fill in for normal white potatoes.
To make mashed yams, just peel the yams, then chop them into chunks and boil them until they are fork-tender.
Then take them out of the water and mash them with some salt, milk (or cream), and butter.
That’s it! We’ve had friend visit who were unable to tell the difference between mashed potatoes and mashed yams.
This year I’m hoping to grow a lot of purple ube yams. We’re currently running two micro-propagation experiments where we cut small pieces of skin from roots and try to get it to sprout. It’s hard to find planting material here in the US so we’re trying to rapidly increase our stock for the spring. We’ll let you know if we can make it happen.
Finally, today is the third day of Christmas: the Feast of St. John the Apostle.
Hey folks, it is your GPOD editor Joseph here… My northern Indiana garden has frozen solid, so gardening activities are on hold here, but I’ve been spending some time thinking about the upcoming spring plant shopping season! I’ve been going through old photos and making a list of plants that I’ve seen in other gardens, or used to have in my own former gardens, and would like to get for my current growing space. So, today, I’m sharing a bit of my garden wish-list for the sunny parts of my garden!
This sweet little flower is the double-flowered form of a plant called cuckoo flower (Cardaminepratensis ‘Flore Pleno’). I saw it years ago in a garden in Oregon, and the gardener was kind enough to give me a piece. It thrived and bloomed like crazy for a couple years, then I moved down to Virginia for a few years and the heat was too much for it. I’d love to grow it again, but seems to be impossible to find for sale in the US.
Here’s a closer look at the flowers.
This is my favorite hardy mum – Chrysanthemum ‘Peach Centerpiece’ (Zone 4 – 9). This variety thrived for me for years, but then I moved a couple of times and lost it. Time to get it again! It looks so great in the garden each fall, and is a wonderful cut flower too.
Speaking of cut flowers… this is a big vase full of the rose ‘Buff Beauty’. This big shrub rose did so well for me, being very vigorous, cold hardy, and pretty disease resistant. But I didn’t carry it with my on my last move. Time to get a new one!
Closer look at one of the flowers on ‘Buff Beauty’. I love that color!
Gas plant (Dictamnusalbus, Zone 3 – 8) is such a great perennial: It handles drought well, very cold hardy, and I’ve never seen deer or rabbits touch it. And in early summer, the flowers are amazing! The only downside is that it takes a few years to get established and start really flowering. That and it is a bit hard to find for sale sometimes. Oh, and the mature plants don’t transplant well, which is why none came with my on my last move.
But oh I love those flowers!
This is a rose, but quite a different one. This is Rosaprimula (Zone 4 – 9), a wild species rose, and it blooms earlier than about any other rose with these masses of sweet, soft-yellow flowers. This is a specimen I saw at a botanic garden… high time I found a spot for one at home.
This is the stunning blooms of a Japanese water iris, Irislaevigata ‘Colchesterensis’ (Zone 5 – 9). I actually grew this plant from seed over a decade ago, but then didn’t take it with me on a move. I just love the incredible pattern on the petals. It can grow in standing water, but in my experience it does just fine in regular garden soil as long as it is on the wet side.
Do you have plants on your wish list? Or favorites in your garden that you think other gardeners should be wishing for? Send us photos! We’d love to see them!
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Do you feel pressured to keep up your lawn and tidy border plants and wish your vista was less exacting and more fun?
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Forget the well-behaved rows of marigolds and sea of green and read on to turn picture-perfect drudgery into a lush, meandering, delightfully unfussy cottage garden!
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Here’s how to make it happen!
The Evolution of the Cottage Garden
Cottage gardens of the 17th and 18th centuries were functional rather than ornamental and gave England’s rural poor a way to sustain themselves with vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers, and animals.
Dense planting optimized the small spaces they encompassed.
When members of the landed gentry took an interest in horticulture, they looked to the cottage style for inspiration, planting flouncy blooms for pure pleasure, creating vantage points from which to enjoy the view upon a bench or when rounding a curve on a winding path.
Colonial Americans called their plots kitchen gardens and grew similar fare to sustain their families. As in England, growing plants for beauty rather than function appealed to those with higher income and more leisure time.
Garden design evolved on both sides of the pond to include formal arrangements of hedges and lawns, and informal displays of native species in naturalistic settings.
Today’s best cottage gardens incorporate the functionality of the early English and American household plots, the structure of formal spaces, and the informality of native plantings.
Contrary to what some may think at first glance, they are not unplanned and chaotic but contrived to achieve a dense, lush feast for the senses.
Planning Today’s Cottage Garden
Not everyone likes this gardening style, and in some communities, the abandonment of a lawn for the apparent disarray of a floral extravaganza meets with disapproval.
If you live in a planned community and are responsible for your lawn care, be sure to check with the HOA before undertaking a large-scale landscaping style change or you risk unwelcome repercussions.
If you’re ready to convert some or all of your lawn space to cottage gardening, here are some tips for success:
1. Choose native species whenever possible. Plants native to your region readily adapt to their surroundings, are less prone to pests and disease, and typically require less water than non-natives.
2. Control weeds and create no-mow pathways with a selection of ground covers. Choose those suited to foot traffic or full or partial shade beneath taller specimens, depending on the location.
3. Mix heights, shapes, and colors for visual interest. Repeat a single color sporadically throughout for a pleasing rhythm.
Choose round, flouncy blooms, tall blossom spikes, and variegated foliage to draw the eye into your design.
Combine flowers, foliage, fruit, herbs, and vegetables as desired per their cultural requirements.
5. Jumpstart your design with transplants rather than starting from seed. Perennials last longer, but annuals offer the opportunity to change plants yearly. Use either or both in your scheme.
6. Read all available species and cultivar information to determine suitability for your growing zone, soil requirements, sun and water needs, and mature dimensions.
7. Select pest- and disease-resistant varieties and those described as “low-maintenance.”
8. Space plants at the minimum recommended distance to achieve full, dense appearance.
Goodbye Grass!
If you’re ready to take the plunge and change some or all of your lawn over to plants, there are a couple of ways to do it.
The quickest way to get rid of your lawn is to rent a tiller to cut through the sod and churn it up. Let the clumps dry in the sun, then break them up.
If you are especially strong, you can dig up the grass by hand instead of tilling it.
And if you’re not in a hurry, you can spread black landscaping fabric over the area you want to de-turf. Weigh it down with bricks or rocks and let the sun heat it for a few weeks. Remove it when the grass below is brown and dead, and then dig up the grass.
Once you remove the lawn, work the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches, removing all signs of grass and roots to avoid re-establishment.
Amend the soil by working in a three-inch layer of rich organic matter like compost or leaf mulch. If you want to be more precise with your nutrients and learn the pH level, contact your local extension office for a soil test.
If you want to replace your entire lawn with plants, you can opt to take it slowly by planting a few square feet at a time or go all in.
If you do leave a large expanse of ground bare, be sure to cover it with weed-free straw during the garden installation to prevent the soil from washing away during heavy rain.
With the ground ready, it’s time to think about how you’ll walk through the garden and whether you’d like to have seating areas.
The worst is over. The grass is gone, and the soil is ready. Now, let’s focus on setting the stage for lush flora.
Anchoring the Space
Trees, shrubs, seating, and paths are key structural elements that anchor the overall design around which plants are installed.
When selecting trees and/or shrubs, review the mature dimensions to avoid overpowering and entirely shading a small space.
Lay out paths and place seating as desired.
Use graph paper to sketch a scale model of your design.
From which direction do you want to enter the garden? Will you walk straight through or turn and walk back?
You may want a single path that bisects the growing area and ends at a bench, for example.
Should it face the house? The setting sun?
Will you sow a ground cover for your path or hardscape it with gravel, bricks, slates, or the like?
Place your large tree and shrub anchors in a visually balanced scheme around the design.
For example, place a tree in the center and three shrubs in a triangular arrangement around the perimeter of the space.
Before we move on to selecting plants, there’s another consideration: watering. Even if you choose water-wise native species, you’ll have to keep them moist while they become established and during dry spells.
A cottage garden is a small world of plants that complement one another, and typically includes varieties like dwarf shrubs and trees, flowering vines, and perennials.
Which to choose depends upon factors like your USDA Hardiness Zone, sun exposure, and soil type.
A cottage garden in progress.
If you select native species suitable for your region, you’ll find they grow reliably and require less supplemental water than non-natives.
And if you choose ornamental fruit trees, you’ll have beauty without fruit to harvest.
To achieve a cottage garden ambiance, focus your search on flora with large, flouncy “old-fashioned” flowers, lush foliage, and fragrance.
Here are some classic options from which to choose:
Annuals:
Biennials:
Bulbs:
Climbers and Creepers:
Herbs:
Perennials:
Shade Lovers:
Shrubs:
Trees:
Vegetables:
Interplant compatible ornamentals and edibles that have the same growing requirements.
Then all you need is a cow, some chickens, and perhaps a pig or two, and you’ve recreated a real old-fashioned cottage garden!
Jot down your favorite bloomers, edibles, foliage plants, and woody specimens.
Consider bloom time, growth rate, tendency to naturalize and spread, form, color, texture, and potential for beauty in all seasons, including bare stem winter interest.
And note that if there’s a species you love that’s not suited to your growing zone, you may be able to grow it as an annual or potted specimen to bring indoors for the winter.
Look for these details during your research.
When you’ve made your selections, it’s time to arrange them.
Planting Tips
Begin by making a graph paper representation of each selection.
Imagine that you are looking at it from above, and cut out a circle for each that is a scale model of its expected width at maturity.
For example, if each square of your graph paper equals six inches, an aster that is 24 inches wide at maturity requires a circle four blocks wide.
A drawing compass, aka pencil compass is a useful low-tech tool that’s ideal for drawing the circles.
On each circle, note the mature height for reference.
Arrange the plants in odd numbers – three or five – to show them to best advantage. Mix species as desired.
For continuity, you can create an eye-catching pattern – for example, use a pink flowering species in each grouping.
If you mix heights, place taller specimens toward the center of the grouping for visual appeal and to avoid obscuring plants that are smaller in stature.
Plan for some flora to overhang your path a bit when they mature to suggest an atmosphere of abundance and casualness.
Once you have a plan on paper, you can physically place all of your plants in their locations and adjust them as desired.
Be sure to make corresponding changes on your graph paper so you have an accurate record of what you are growing and where.
When you are ready to install flora, remove and discard any straw or mulch you used to cover the soil while it was fallow.
Work the ground with a garden rake to loosen it to a crumbly consistency. Remove and discard any debris.
Take note of the depth each plant sits in its original container. You’ll want to replicate it when you put it in the ground.
For shrubs and trees, make a hole as deep as the root ball and two to three times as wide.
Set each plant appropriately, backfill, and tamp firmly.
Water well with the garden hose or your newly installed irrigation system if you opted for one.
And now, the finishing touches: accessories.
Accessorizing
With large anchor trees and shrubs, paths, seating, and ornamental species in place, you have established a cottage garden.
Use mulch to cover any ground that is currently bare to inhibit the growth of weeds. In time, the flora will grow, filling in gaps and providing dense layers of texture, form, and color.
For a final cozy touch, you can add some or all of the following embellishments:
Gazing Ball
Picket Fence
Sculpture or Statue
Table
Trellis
How much or little you add is a matter of preference and the size of your space. When selecting items, choose those intended to withstand outdoor conditions year-round.
Over time, natural materials will weather delightfully and display patinas with an ages-old appearance.
When you incorporate wildlife-welcoming elements, you increase the habitat value of your property.
Vertical pieces like an arbor or trellis draw the eye upward and increase visual interest.
Finally, have support materials like stakes, twine, and tomato cages on hand to use as needed to inhibit the flopping over of any plants with leggy stems.
Maintaining the Ambiance
Contrary to the belief of some, today’s cottage garden can be a carefully organized compilation of free-spirited blooms, foliage, shrubs, and trees, rather than a tangled mass of miscellaneous flora in perpetual disarray.
The maintenance needed depends upon the requirements of the plants you have chosen.
Perennials may benefit from deadheading to prolong blooming and dividing to maintain a compact form and manageability.
Annuals will need to be replaced yearly, providing the opportunity to vary your plantings.
At the end of the growing season, some folks like to let native species wither and remain in place to save some seeds, feed late-season birds, and provide winter interest.
They clean up the remaining debris in late winter to early spring.
Others like to cut down all spent stems at the end of the growing season to keep the garden tidy and to make way for fresh spring growth.
The degree of precision versus loosey-goosey casual is entirely up to you.
In addition, it’s worth noting that dense plantings are more prone to fungal conditions, so it’s essential to avoid overwatering and to divide plants that outgrow their designated space and encroach on others.
General rules of thumb for watering and fertilizing are:
Provide an inch of water per week if it doesn’t rain and more during a prolonged dry spell.
Fertilize in early spring when new shoots appear. Use a balanced 10-10-10 (NPK) product and apply it near but not touching soft stems and woody trunks.
As mentioned, the specific information about each plant is your best guide, and sowing those with similar cultural requirements makes care one-size-fits-all.
Soul-Satisfying and Serene
Whether you have an eye for the whimsical or the practical, a cottage garden is a departure from the mundane and a foray into a less prescriptive, more soul-satisfying greenspace experience.
Park your mower and immerse yourself in the serenity of a cottage garden you created yourself.
Do you have a cottage-style garden? What tips can you offer to streamline maintenance? Please share them in the comments section below.
Are you having trouble keeping your garden healthy and productive? Use this list of ten essential daily gardening tasks to take your garden from struggling to thriving.
It’s easy to focus on the big tasks that need to be done in the garden. However, it is often the small simple things we do on a daily basis that will have the biggest impact on the health of our garden.
Garden Care Schedule for your Daily Gardening Routine:
1. Check the watering
Struggling = Overwatered plants have saturated soil and grow slowly. Underwatered plants are wilted with yellowing dried leaves.
Thriving = Plants that are watered correctly are healthy and grow well. They are less stressed and less prone to pests & disease.
Don’t assume your garden needs watering; first, check the soil. Put a finger in the soil; if it comes up with soil on it, wait before watering. If your finger is dry, it’s time to water.
Three key tips for watering:
Newly planted seeds or seedlings will need watering more often until they get established.
Watering in the morning helps hydrate plants for the day.
Try to be in the garden when the water is running. You’ll spot leaks and broken timers and emitters that way, too.
2. Thin seedlings
Struggling = Too many seedlings too close together crowd each other out and compete for sunlight and nutrients. None of them grow well.
Thriving = Each seedling has enough room. Seedlings grow quickly and get established.
After planting seeds, thin them early and often. Young seedlings will grow and thrive when given enough room. Check mature spacing guidelines and square foot spacing in this blog post.
3. Keep up with pruning and deadheading
Struggling = Tasks build up, and they become overwhelming. You don’t know where to begin. There is too much to do! Suckers grow large and take energy away from growing plants.
Keep flowers deadheaded
Thriving = Daily pruning and cleaning up keeps tasks manageable. Plants are healthy and productive.
Prune off suckers from tomato plants
I always have my favorite pruners when I head out to the garden each morning. If you see something that needs to be pruned or cleaned up, do it right away. Plants are healthier and happier when kept in check and cleaned up. Essential garden tasks include:
Struggling = You’re afraid to check the garden because of the pests. Squash bugs are multi-generational and out of control. You have to pull plants to prevent infestations from spreading.
If you see holes in your leaves, look for a pest on the backside of the leaf
Thriving = Daily checks on the undersides of leaves for problem pests keep numbers in check. Soapy water nearby makes it easy to dispose of problem pests. You see signs of beneficial insects and understand how they can help.
Use apps to help you identify pests
Make it a point to observe nature during your daily gardening routine. This doesn’t mean reaching for a spray bottle, every time you see a bug. However, it’s important to be aware of what is happening in your garden. Apps like “Seek” help identify which bugs are in your garden. Read this post to learn more about organic pest control options.
Look for holes, check the undersides of leaves, check around plants, and check new seedlings.
Pay attention to the patterns of pests/beneficial insects throughout the year.
5. Learn to spot the first signs of disease in your garden
Struggling = Plants are overtaken with disease and have to be pulled. Garden diseases build up in your soil and come back each season.
Thriving = You remove diseased leaves as soon as you see them and then monitor that plant closely. You clean your tools each time you use them to prevent the spread of diseases.
Clean tools and wash hands after pruning diseased plants
Removing affected leaves is often a good first step in treating garden diseases. Daily observation will help you know what further treatment steps are needed if the problem progresses.
Catching problems when small helps keep them under control and prevents spreading to the rest of your garden. Clean tools meticulously and dispose of any leaves in the garbage, not compost.
10 Essential Garden Tasks to Take Your Garden from Struggling to Thriving (continued)
6. Help your plants find the trellises
Struggling = Plants are overgrown with unruly branches that break when you train them to the trellis.
Thriving = You give young plants and branches a nudge or clip them in place as they grow, and they happily climb trellises.
Vertical gardening keeps plants healthier and more productive, but if the plant doesn’t find the trellis, it can’t climb. Other plants must be clipped to or woven up the trellis. Larger branches are less pliable and may break, but young growth is easy to train.
7. Look at the blossoms. Do you need to hand-pollinate anything?
Struggling = Female blossoms wither and die because they aren’t pollinated. Fruits do not mature before the season ends.
Thriving = You are in the garden when blossoms open and hand-pollinate as needed to ensure fruits form on squash, cantaloupe, and other plants.
A bonus tip: Plant flowers and allow herbs to flower to attract pollinators so you won’t have to hand-pollinate as often.
9. Check on vermicomposting and composting bins
Struggling = Plants aren’t growing well.
Thriving = You add food scraps and yard waste to composting bins and amend your beds regularly.
The best fertilizer for plants is fresh worm castings and compost from your vermicomposting and compost bins. Daily attention to this essential gardening task will keep them producing worm castings and compost to add to your garden.
Vermicomposting bins: Collect kitchen scraps. Check on 1-2 bins daily to monitor worms’ health. Add scraps or harvest finished worm castings as needed—Spread and water in castings. Take note of where you need to add more food scraps. Learn more about in-bed vermicomposting in this blog post.
Struggling = Fruit is left on the vine and gets rotten, attracting pests. Vegetables become tough or overgrown, and production slows down.
Thriving = You harvest as needed daily and incorporate that food into your daily diet and menus.
When you go out to the garden, bring a basket with you, and when something is ready to be picked, pick it! Pick young and pick often to encourage production. Monitor crops that usually get damaged by birds or pests and harvest early or put barrier methods in place before they ripen.
10. Enjoy being in the garden
Struggling = Being in the garden stresses you out because there is so much work!
Thriving = You look around and feel content about what you accomplished. You realize that daily, consistent efforts are better for your garden and easier for you!
Create a spot to rest, relax, and observe the beauty and wildlife as part of your daily garden routine. There may always be work that can be done. However, if you spend a little time each day, those tasks won’t overwhelm you. Instead of dreading it, you will look forward to time in the garden.
Ric rac cactus is a fast-growing and easy to care for plant, making it ideal for beginners. It’s durable and can survive a good amount of neglect too.
But before you add the zig-zag foliage to your houseplant collection, you should learn about what it needs to thrive.
This detailed ric rac cactus care guide will show you exactly what you need to know. You’ll discover what the water, light, soil, and humidity needs are, how to troubleshoot the most common problems, and more.
The ric rac cactus (Epiphyllum anguliger) is a tropical epiphyte native to Mexican rainforests, where you’d find it anchored in the nooks of trees. It can absorb nutrients and moisture from the air and rainfall through its branches and roots.
The draping, leaf-like branches have rounded lobes that protrude from either side in an alternating pattern.
They can range between 2-9’ in length, with each averaging 6” wide with 1-2” lobes. The flat branches look like a dull saw edge, which is how this plant got the nicknames zig zag and ric rac cactus.
Different Types
There is only one type of Epiphyllum anguliger. But it has a similar appearance and growth habit to Selenicereus anthonyanus, aka the fishbone cactus. They are even often referred to by that same common name.
If your ric rac cactus is mature and gets 6 or more hours of bright light a day in early spring, it can produce nocturnal flowers that bloom for just one night. Its other nicknames, moon cactus and queen of the night, come from this nighttime flowering habit.
The orchid style blooms form at the end of long stems and feature off-white yellowish outer petals with a central white-colored blossom. They’re very fragrant and range between 4-5” across.
White ric rac cactus flower
Toxicity
The ric rac cactus is not toxic to pets, so it’s a safe choice to grow near your cats and dogs. However, it develops small spikes or spines on the inside corners of the stems and on new growth, so it’s still a good idea to keep it out of reach.
Before we talk about ric rac cactus care, we should discuss the best place to grow your plant. By choosing the right location, you’ll set it up for long-lasting health.
Hardiness
The ric rac cactus cannot tolerate extreme heat or cold. It requires temperatures between 50°F (10°C) and 80°F (26.6°C) to thrive. Anything outside this range can cause damage, and freezing temperatures will eventually kill the plant.
Due to its sensitivity to the cold, you can only grow it outdoors year-round if you live in zones 10-11. Otherwise you’ll have to keep it as a houseplant during the winter.
Where To Grow
Indoors, place your Epiphyllum anguliger near a bright window where it will get indirect light. But keep it away from AC vents or heaters, which can dry it out.
Outdoors, choose a shady location that receives dappled sun or only morning light, and pay close attention to the temperatures.
The draping nature of the stems makes it a popular choice for hanging baskets or planters, but you can also train it to climb. No matter the container you choose, it needs to have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent overwatering.
Ric rac cactus growing in mixed container
Ric Rac Cactus Plant Care & Growing Instructions
Now that you know where to grow it, we can chat about how to care for your ric rac cactus. Use the tips below to help create the perfect growing environment.
Light
Direct sunlight can burn the branches. So give your ric rac cactus bright, indirect light for 5-6 hours a day. An east or west-facing window that gets morning or evening sun is a good choice for indoor plants.
Outdoors, find a spot that gets partial or dappled shade and will protect your plant from the harsh, afternoon sun.
Getting the right amount of light in the spring is essential for blooming. If you have trouble providing 6 hours indoors, you can add a grow light to help supplement.
Water
The tropical nature of a ric rac cactus means it likes lots of moisture. However, overwatering can cause root or stem rot.
Water the soil whenever the top 1” dries out. But never oversaturate it to the point of being soggy, and ensure that any excess water drains from the pot.
In the winter, let it dry out more between drinks. When buds start to set in the spring, resume regular watering.
If you struggle to get it just right, use a moisture meter probe and keep it between 3-4 on the gauge.
Healthy Epiphyllum anguliger leaf
Humidity
Your Epiphyllum anguliger will thrive in high humidity, but it’s a very durable plant that can easily withstand drier indoor air too.
You can add a small humidifier, set the pot on a pebble tray filled with water, or lightly mist the branches occasionally to help increase humidity levels.
Temperature
Ric rac cactus plants prefers temperatures between 60-75°F (15.5-24°C), which makes them ideal to care for indoors.
Anything below 50°F (10°C) will stop growth, and below 40°F (4.4°C) will cause damage and ultimately result in death.
Temperatures above 80°F (26.6°C) can rapidly dehydrate your plant and can cause it to wilt.
Fertilizer
Regular feedings help support the rapid growth of a ric rac cactus, and stimulate flowering. Apply them in the spring and summer, then stop completely in the fall and winter.
Since they grow so quickly, you may need to repot your ric rac cactus every 1-3 years as part of its regular care. Roots growing out of the bottom, a bulging pot, or slowed growth are all signs it might be time to size it up.
In the spring or summer, gently remove your ric rac cactus from its old container and move it to a new pot that’s 1-2” larger. Plant it at the same depth it was before, fill it in with soil, and water well.
Small ric rac cactus plants in pots
Pruning
Pruning your ric rac cactus is not necessary, but it is good to give it an occasional trim to remove damaged, dead, or leggy branches, and to control its shape and size.
Use sharp, sterile pruning shears to cut away branches wherever they’re too long or damaged. If you don’t like the look of a calloused top, remove the branches at the base instead.
Wear gloves to help protect your hands from the prickly spines between the lobes while you work.
New Epiphyllum anguliger leaf growing
Pest Control Tips
A healthy Epiphyllum anguliger rarely has issues with pests, but mealybugs and scale can occasionally become a problem.
Use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to remove any visible bugs, then treat the plant with an insecticidal soap. I make my own by combining 1 teaspoon of mild liquid soap with 1 liter of water.
Beautiful green Epiphyllum anguliger plant
Propagation Tips
You can easily propagate your ric rac cactus in the spring or summer with healthy stem cuttings. Cut a 3-4” section or a whole branch and let it sit out for a day or two to form a callous.
Dip the cut end into rooting hormone, then plant it in lightly moistened, well-draining soil. Put it somewhere warm with indirect light until roots form, then pot it up.
You can also use any aerial roots that form along the branches to propagate your plant. They look like small white tendrils. Gently pin the branch down so the roots are in contact with the soil. Once the branch has rooted, cut it from the mother plant and transfer it to a new pot.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even easy-care plants like a ric rac cactus aren’t entirely problem-free. If you happen to run into one of these more common issues, use my tips to help you get your plant back on track.
New Growth Is Skinny
Skinny new growth or leggy branches are caused by lack of light, or from using too much or the wrong kind of fertilizer.
Provide at least 6 hours of bright indirect sun a day, using a grow light indoors if needed to supplement. Avoid feeding your plant more than once a month, and only apply fertilizer in the spring or summer. It’s also best to avoid using flowering plant food outside of early spring.
Stems Rotting
Rotting stems are caused by overwatering or improper soil. It’s important to use a well-draining mix that doesn’t retain too much moisture.
When you water, wait until the top inch has dried out and avoid puddling or making the soil soggy. Ensure you drain away all the excess from the pot as well, so the rootball is never soaking.
Flower Buds Dying
If the flowers shrivel and die quickly after blooming, it’s nothing to worry about. The nocturnal blooms only last for one night.
If, however, the buds are dying before they open, it could be a symptom of stress from underwatering or temperature fluctuation. Keep them between 60-75°F (15.5-24°C) and make sure the soil is never bone dry for long periods.
Yellow Leaves Or Stems
Yellowing leaves or stems are usually caused by improper watering, cold temperatures, or lack of light.
Avoid letting the soil dry out completely, but don’t water so much that it’s wet and sodden. Make sure your plant also receives at least 6 hours of bright light every day and is never exposed to temps below 50°F (10°C).
Brown Leaves Or Stems
Brown stems or leaves on your ric rac cactus are a symptom of improper watering or too much light.
If you overwater, you may notice brown soft stems or spots, which are indicative of rot. Underwatering will lead to dried shriveled stems. Keep the soil moist, but let the top inch dry between drinks, and cut back on watering in the winter.
Direct sunlight can also cause scorched brown spots along the branches. Move your plant to a shadier location or to a window that doesn’t get direct sun in the afternoon.
Brown leaf on ric rac cactus
FAQs
Is ric rac cactus easy to care for?
Yes, a ric rac cactus is easy to care for because they’re very durable. Even if you forget to water or don’t give your plant enough sunlight at first, they can often endure and recover just fine.
Does ric rac cactus need to hang?
No, a ric rac cactus doesn’t need to hang. You can grow it in any container with drainage holes, mount it on a board or tree, or train it to climb. However, because it has draping branches, it’s often a popular choice for hanging planters.
Is ric rac cactus a rare plant?
No, a ric rac cactus isn’t a rare plant. You can find them for sale in numerous places online or at your favorite local nursery.
Can ric rac cactus go outside?
Yes, a ric rac cactus can go outside, as long as the temperature is consistently above 50°F (10°C). Also, make sure to put it a spot that provides shade in the afternoon to protect the branches from scorching.
If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!
More Houseplant Care Guides
Share your ric rac cactus care tips in the comments section below.
If you’re in a climate with intense summer sun, you may want to provide shade during the hottest months. This is similar to applying “sunscreen” on your plants. If you’re wondering how to create shade in your garden, this blog post gives ideas for some practical ways to create shade in your garden.
Adding shade to a hot summer garden can help your garden survive and thrive. This article also covers which vegetables need shade and which can grow in full sun. Finally, we will cover what type of shade cloth is best and other ways to add shade to your garden. So let’s get to it – all about adding shade to the garden.
If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, here it is 50% White Shade Cloth.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Why is it important to add shade in hot summer climates?
1. Adding shade protects plants from the scorching sun.
Sunscald on a pepper
The morning sun provides plenty of energy through photosynthesis without the excessive heat stress of prolonged all-day sun exposure.
Sunscald on a tomato
In sweltering heat, direct sunlight can cause wilting, sunburn, and even death in some plants. Most vegetables are stressed when temperatures are above 90℉ (32.2°C). Shade keeps the direct sun off foliage; the shaded area can be about 10℉ (6°C) cooler than areas without shade.
Winter squash wilted from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat
2. Adding shade conserves water.
A shaded garden helps retain moisture in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering. Providing shade for plants can lower the amount of moisture loss through transpiration (evaporation of water from plant leaves).
Wilted summer squash from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat
3. Adding shade creates a comfortable outdoor space.
A well-shaded garden benefits plants and makes spending time in the garden more enjoyable. Spending time in your garden daily is essential, and the shade benefits the gardener and the garden.
When should you add shade to your summer garden?
The best time to set up your shade cloth is when temperatures consistently climb above 90°F (32.2°C), and keep it on until temperatures get below that. At this point, most plants tend to enter a dormancy-like state to conserve water and protect themselves from heat stress.
For me, in the low desert of Arizona, this usually means using shade cloth from mid-May to early October.
A tip to remember: Although summer gardens in hot climates need shade in the hottest months of the year, abundant sunshine is an advantage during cooler months. Because most fall and winter gardens need full sun, it’s best to add temporary (not permanent) shade to the garden for the hottest months of the year.
Which vegetables grow best with afternoon shade?
When planning your vegetable garden, it’s important to take into account each plant’s sunlight preferences to ensure a thriving and productive garden. While all vegetables can benefit from some afternoon shade in hot summer climates, certain plants are particularly sensitive to the sun’s intense rays and should be given extra shade if you live in a hot climate.
Many vegetables do not like the extreme heat of an Arizona (or other hot climate) summer. Provide shade for the listed crops as temperatures begin to heat up to extend the harvest. Adding shade can extend the growing season for certain crops allowing them to produce for a longer period, even when temperatures begin to climb.
Fortunately, certain vegetables can withstand and flourish in the summer heat without the need for extra shade. These vegetables thrive in full sunlight. However, it is important to note that during the hottest times of the day, all plants can benefit from shade in extremely hot summer weather.
Gardening in a hot climate means learning to work with sunlight effectively. “Full-sun” directions for other locations may not apply in Arizona’s low desert or other hot climates. Providing shade for your sun-sensitive veggies is essential, and there are many creative ways to do that. Here are a few of my favorite methods:
1. Create shade in the garden with a thoughtful garden design
Notice which areas in your yard receive morning sun and afternoon shade naturally. These spots are prime real estate for any plants, but especially a summer garden. Use these areas in your garden for vegetables that need shade. South or west-facing parts of your yard will probably need added shade.
2. Create shade in the garden with shade cloth
If your garden area is in full sun, consider adding shade cloth. Don’t think of completely encasing the garden, but providing some relief when the sun is at its highest. The area should receive some sun during the day. The variety of colors and percentages in shade cloth allows you to customize the light that reaches your garden.
Using a shade cloth is a game-changer for me. It’s an easy, adjustable solution to protect my delicate veggies from scorching sunrays while allowing enough sunlight to grow.
Which color shade cloth should I use?
When choosing a shade cloth for your garden, consider the temperature differences between night and day as well as the average temperature in your area to determine which color is best suited for your needs.
White shade clothreflects light & heat and cools better. Allows for flowering plants to produce. This is the type I use in my low desert Arizona garden.
Aluminet shade clothreflects light. Increases full spectrum light. It can act as a thermal blanket, protecting plants from wide temperature variances from day to night.
If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, here it is 50% White Shade Cloth.
How far away should the shade cloth be from plants?
Do not allow the shade cloth to touch the plants; 2-3 feet clearance is best to allow air to circulate around plants.
What is the best way to attach shade cloth?
Attach shade cloth to existing trellises with zip ties or carabiner clips. At the end of the season, removing the clips, rolling up the shade cloth, and storing it away is simple. When the summer heat comes again, re-attach the shade cloth.
3. Create shade in the garden with sunflowers
Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety can offer shade to surrounding plants.
Plant sunflowers on the west or south side of the garden for shade. Once grown in a garden, they often reseed and pop up year after year. Unwanted volunteers are easy to pull out.
At the end of the season, cut off the stem at the base of the dirt rather than pulling out the entire root system. The remaining root will decompose and add organic matter to the area. Sunflowers can be planted in the low desert of Arizona from February through July.
4. Create shade in the garden with umbrellas
Outdoor umbrellas offer good temporary shade. They can be moved and angled to provide afternoon shade where it is needed most. However, umbrellas often block 100% of sunlight; be sure to tilt it so plants receive some morning sun. As with any shade structure, be aware of strong winds and take down the umbrella before it tips over and damages surrounding plants.
5. Create shade in the garden with plants
Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade.
Vining vegetables can be grown over artichoke crowns that go dormant during hot summers to protect them from the intense heat that might damage the crowns. Grow heat-loving plants on the south or west-facing trellises that shade other plants.
Other ideas for adding shade:
Here are some pictures I took from my previous gardens or other gardens that have added shade. You may get some ideas or inspiration to implement in your own garden.
If this post about how to add shade to your garden was helpful, please share it:
This article focuses specifically on growing and caring for queen’s tears.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Let’s meet this blossoming beauty!
Cultivation and History
Queen’s tears is native to the arid climate of eastern coastal Mexico, Central America, most of South America, except for Chile, southern Argentina, and the Windward Islands.
In addition to being a rock- and tree-dwelling epiphyte, it grows on the organically-rich rainforest floor as a ground cover.
Swedish botanist Carl Peter Thunberg, who trained under the famed father of taxonomical classification, Carl Linnaeus, named the Billbergia genus to honor the self-taught Swedish botanist Gustaf Johan Billberg. It contains 62 species.
B. nutanswas recognized and named in 1869 by German botanists Wendland and von Regel. “Nutans” is Latin for nodding and refers to the arching form of the foliage and inflorescences or flower-bearing stems.
Photo by David J. Stang, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
There is evidence of the hybridization of queen’s tears dating back to the 1920s.
In 1925, the American naturalist Theodore Luqueer Mead supplied the Brooklyn Botanic Garden with a specimen of a hybrid he had cultivated by crossbreeding two Billbergia species, B. nutans and B. zebrina.
Queen’s tears has a clumping or tufting growth habit with stems that grow upright, forming a vase-like rosette.
As they mature, the stems arch outwards to create a waterfall-like cascade of strappy evergreen gray-green or variegated green leaves with serrated edges. Mature dimensions are 12 to 24 inches tall and wide.
The flowers are borne at the terminal end of an arching, bright pink inflorescence.
They are inside pendant, bright pink bracts that open to reveal the blooms in all their regal glory. Recurved green, tubular petals sport royal blue margins, and are the inspiration for crowning this species a queen.
Prominent stamens laden with rich yellow pollen complete the majestic display, standing to attention protruding from the center of the flowers. Nectar sacs release glistening, sticky droplets when jostled and are Her Majesty’s “tears.”
At approximately 18 to 30 months of age, a bromeliad is mature enough to flower.
Each flower lasts a month or more, and after it fades, the attached foliage dies six to 12 months later. Bromeliads bloom randomly throughout the year, with new offsets continually replacing old post-bloom vegetation.
B. nutans is a water-wise species with high drought tolerance. Because it is native to arid climes, it has two unique methods of conserving water.
The first method is via is CAM (crassulacean acid metabolism) photosynthesis, in which the leaf “stomata” or gas exchange openings remain closed during the day to regulate moisture and open at night to release oxygen and take in carbon dioxide.
In addition, the foliage has hair-like trichomes that aid in retaining moisture absorbed through the leaves.
Photo by David J. Stang, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
Unlike bromeliads that feature flattened, prominent water reservoirs in the center of the rosette, the grassy, vase-like foliage of queen’s tears does not have water wells, although you may read information to the contrary.
Watering the soil when the top inch is dry is all gardeners need to do to ensure adequate moisture intake.
An advantage of the absence of prominent water reservoirs is that the foliage isn’t as appealing to mosquitoes.
Queen’s tears is nontoxic to people and pets and is also known as the “friendship plant” because it is easy to propagate and give away, as we’ll discuss next.
Queen’s Tears Propagation
To grow queen’s tears, you can start with seeds, a division of an existing plant, a bare-root rhizome, or a nursery potted specimen.
From Seed
While it is possible to gather seeds from queen’s tears post-flowering, the seeds may not be viable or may produce traits different from the parent plant.
Since these plants are not self-pollinating, you’ll need to ensure you have two specimens – and pollinate the flowers by hand if you’re growing indoors.
In addition, seeds require surface sowing and germination on top of moist, acidic potting medium and are prone to rotting.
By Division
As mentioned, once a mature clump of foliage finishes blooming, it’s just a matter of time before the leafy tuft it sprang from dies.
And thanks to the offsets or “pups” that sprout beside the mature foliage, the plant continues to thrive.
Dividing is the process of removing one or more pups to start new plants to keep or give away.
The time to divide is when a pup is at least one-third the size of a parent rosette.
For a potted specimen, unpot the plant and lay it on its side on newspaper or a tarp. Remove enough soil to see and feel where the pup is attached to the clump of foliage.
Use clean pruners or a garden knife to slice down through the thick rhizome rootstock to sever the pup from the parent. Be sure the separated pup or division is a complete, separate rosette with green leaves and roots attached.
In the case of an in-ground plant, use a long-handled shovel to unearth the parent plant with the attached pup, lay it on its side, remove soil as needed, and sever the two.
Replant or discard the parent, as it has finished flowering.
Pot up or plant out the pup immediately, setting it just deep enough in potting medium or garden soil to hold it in place, with the crown approximately three-quarters of an inch to an inch below the rim of the pot. Moisten the soil, but avoid oversaturation.
If you accidentally sever the pup’s roots, dip its base into rooting hormone and set it into potting medium or garden soil as described above. Use stones beside it for support if necessary.
Provide bright indirect sunlight indoors and afternoon shade outdoors.
If you are starting with a bare-root rhizome, set it into potting soil just deep enough for it to be self-supporting, as discussed in the division section above.
To transplant a potted nursery specimen, note its depth in the original container and replicate it in the new one, backfilling firmly to hold the plant in place.
How to Grow Queen’s Tears
Queen’s tears requires bright, indirect sunlight indoors that is easily achieved by placing it in proximity to a south- or east-facing window.
Avoid placing it in direct sunlight as this can scorch the flowers and foliage. Outdoors, a setting that provides afternoon shade reduces the risk of sun scorch.
The ideal temperature is 70 to 80°F during the day and 65 to 70°F at night.
The soil should be acidic, with a pH of between 5.0 and 6.0. As Billbergia species grow as both epiphytes and terrestrial ground covers, the soil you choose can either be bark chips or a potting mix that is loamy and rich in humus.
The best potting soil to use is one that is loose and airy and drains rapidly, like a cactus, palm, and citrus mix, such as this one from Miracle-Gro.
Fertilizer is not crucial, as these plants are not heavy feeders. If you choose to feed, do so during active summer growth, and use a product specifically formulated for bromeliads.
If you’re using a granular product, water first and apply it to the soil, avoiding the foliage. Misting products are applied directly to the foliage.
Miracle-Gro Orchid Plant Food Mist is suitable because bromeliads and orchids share similar cultural requirements and benefit from foliar misting as a moisture source.
If you cultivate these plants indoors, strive to maintain a humidity level between 50 and 75 percent.
To increase the ambient humidity, you can mist the foliage and flowers and/or set the pot on a drip dish atop a single layer of pebbles in a pan of water that comes just to the top of the gravel base.
Don’t place the pot directly on the pebbles without a drip dish to avoid absorbing excess water.
Queen’s tears plants are genetically wired to survive in arid conditions. If your water is hard or mineral-rich, leave it out overnight to off-gas chemicals like chlorine.
Mineral-rich water may leave white spots on the foliage over time.
If the top inch of soil is dry, it’s time to water. You can use a moisture meter to guide you.
Wet the soil, but avoid oversaturation.
Remember, queen’s tears is water-wise and drought tolerant. Neglect is better than overgenerosity.
Growing Tips
Provide bright indirect sunlight indoors and afternoon shade outdoors.
Skip the fertilizer or use it sparingly.
If growing indoors, provide 50 to 75 percent humidity enhanced by misting or a bed of wet stones beneath the drip dish as needed.
Leave hard water out overnight to avoid watering-induced leaf discoloration.
Water when the top inch of soil is dry.
Maintenance
Remember to leave treated water out overnight in an open vessel to disperse some of the harsher chemicals and avoid oversaturation, a nemesis of bromeliads and epiphytes.
B. nutans with water-stained foliage. Photo by Dandarmkd, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
Per the New York Botanical Garden, avoid overfertilizing which can lead to leggy stems and distort the signature rosette vase shape.
Use clean pruners to remove spent flower inflorescences as close to their base as you can without damaging neighboring foliage. Remove decaying post-bloom rosettes when they begin to wilt.
In Zones 9 to 11, you can leave plants outdoors year-round. You may even be able to do so in Zone 8, as plants can withstand brief periods in the 20s and even the teens.
Provide outdoor pots with winter insulation like a burlap wrap, and bring them close to the house or indoors during cold snaps.
However, if you are cultivating outdoors in Zone 8 and below, where the temperature remains below the 30 to 32°F range for extended periods, you’ll need to bring your pots indoors for the winter months.
And finally, when you need to repot, choose a container that is no more than one-third larger than the size of the root ball. Shallow and snug is best. Avoid overly deep vessels that hold too much water and promote fungal disease.
Where to Buy
Classification of B. nutans is constantly evolving. Some bromeliad experts accept B. nutans var. schimperiana and B. nutans var. striata as naturally occurring variants, while others lean more toward classifying them as distinct species.
Differences among variants may be subtle and detectable only by trained eyes. And while you may never come across this information on a plant tag, aficionados may find the minutiae of interest.
In addition, there are plants on the market listed as cultivated varieties of B. nutans, like ‘Blondie,’ that may be a golden-leafed “sport” or randomly occurring natural variant of a completely different type of Billbergia.
There is still much to learn about the Billbergia genus and the nutans species!
A known and accepted cultivar isB. nutans ‘Variegata,’ that has striking green foliage with cream margins.
Healthy bromeliads in an ideal growing environment are not typically prone to pests or disease problems.
However, there are a few you should know.
Dry indoor environments may promote an infestation of:
Use insecticidal, fungicidal neem oil to treat affected foliage.
Overly wet conditions, poor air circulation, and/or poorly draining soil may invite fungal diseases, including:
Crown and Root Rot
Leaf Spot
Rust
Crown and root rot caught early may be reversible. Symptoms include a foul odor, mushy brown discoloration at the base, and loose leaves.
Unpot the plant and rinse the soil from the roots. Remove all discolored, mushy, malodorous roots and foliage.
Spray the remaining roots with a mixture of one part hydrogen peroxide mixed with two parts water. Allow the roots to dry entirely before repotting.
Sanitize the container by spraying the inside with the same solution, letting it sit for 30 minutes to disinfect, and rinsing it completely before use.
Repot with fresh potting medium.
For leaf spot, remove severely affected foliage and treat the remaining leaves with fungicidal neem oil.
And in the case of rust, you’ll also need to remove the affected foliage.
Treatment is challenging because many types of rust are fungicide resistant, and the harsh chemicals required are geared more toward commercial growers than home gardeners.
Avoiding these issues with good cultivation practices is more likely to be successful than treatment.
Best Uses for Queen’s Tears
Queen’s tears is an eye-catching ground cover with fountains of foliage and arching blossom inflorescences. It fills in densely as new pups take the place of old rosettes.
Photo by David J. Stang, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
Container gardening is ideal for climates not conducive to overwintering outdoors, as plants can spend the summer outdoors in the fresh air and return to the house for the cold months of the year.
And for those who prefer to grow it indoors year-round, B. nutans is an easy-care houseplant that requires bright indirect sunlight and occasional watering to keep it happy.
To display in a pot, choose one that hangs or stands on a pedestal to show the cascading tendrils of flowers and foliage to best advantage.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Perennial epiphyte
Flower / Foliage Color:
Blue, green, pink bract/gray-green or variegated green
Native to:
Parts of Central and South America, Mexico, Windward Islands
Maintenance:
Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
9-11
Tolerance:
Drought, shade
Bloom Time:
Monocot/evergreen
Soil Type:
Loamy humus, bark
Exposure:
Part shade (outdoors), bright indirect sunlight (indoors)
Soil pH:
5.0-6.0
Time to Maturity:
18-30 months
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Spacing:
18-24 inches
Attracts:
Butterflies, hummingbirds
Planting Depth:
Surface sow (seed), same depth original container (transplants)
Uses:
Container, ground cover, houseplant
Height:
12-24 inches
Order:
Poales
Spread:
12-24 inches
Family:
Bromeliaceae
Water Needs:
Low
Genus:
Billbergia
Common Pests and Diseases:
Mealybugs, scale, whiteflies; crown and root rot, leaf spot, rust
Species:
Nutans
The Queen of the Bromeliads
Now that you know how to grow and care for your own queen’s tears plant, all that’s left is to decide if you can grow it outdoors in your location, plan to give it summers al fresco, or intend to keep it indoors year-round.
Offer moisture sparingly, misting the foliage and flowers to increase the ambient humidity as needed and watering when the top inch of soil is dry.
To support moisture storage and photosynthesis, try to maintain a growing environment with temperatures of 70 to 80°F during the day and 65° to 70°F at night.
With best practices, your queen will surely be the shining star of the realm in any garden or houseplant setting.
Do you grow Billbergia nutans? What advice can you share in the comments section below?
Pigs are going to be part of our homestead from now on. Last week we bought six more.
But can we raise all our own food?
Yet raising all our meat and produce and roots? Would that be possible?
It’s starting to look possible. We now own over ten acres, and managed to produce over 2500 lbs of produce, over 3,000 eggs, hundreds of gallons of milk, and about 500lbs of meat this year. And that’s just the first year we’ve lived on this land.
We also produced all that on about seven acres of space, not on the complete space we own. And most of the space we used was cow pasture, not even high-production space. The pen where we kept our two pigs was just 512 ft2, and our garden was 5265 ft2. Our chickens live in about 750 ft2.
One of the big issues with raising animals is keeping them fed. Currently, we don’t have to buy feed for the chickens or the pigs because we made a deal with a local restaurant to cart away a trashcan of scraps daily. Those scraps include vegetable peelings, cooked meat, shrimp shells, eggshells, noodles and more. It’s a rather balanced diet for omnivores like chickens and pigs!
If we couldn’t get that kind of deal, however, we would have to add a lot more gardening space in order to keep the animals fed.
If we wanted to just eat a vegetarian diet, it wouldn’t be too hard to make a bunch more cassava and yam beds, and increase our production of potatoes, sweet potatoes and other filling crops. However, a vegetarian diet is less than ideal, so instead, we could grow some of those crops and use them to feed animals – then eat the animals and/or their eggs/milk. We plan to add more Jerusalem artichokes to the homestead this year as those are particularly good for pig feed.
That’s the current goal as a backup to buying feed and collecting restaurant waste – grow more calorie-dense vegetables we can then convert into meat.
Reaching complete and utter self-sufficiency is unlikely, since we’ll still be buying some coffee, flour, some spices, bourbon, etc.; yet we’re certainly getting closer.
If we wanted to be purists, we could live pretty well on yams and pork. We had mashed yams and a smoked pork roast last night for Christmas dinner.
Rachel mixed in a few small purple yams with one large white one, hence the lavender mashed yams! Both varieties were cultivars of Dioscorea alata.
The cows give us milk, cheese, yogurt and butter, which they make from grass.
That’s homemade cheese with freshly baked bread.
We buy our wheat and grind it, however, so that isn’t coming from our farm.
We don’t have to buy cooking oil since we got gallons of lard from our pigs.
What else could be done?
We could also:
Make our own raw sugar from sugarcane
Stop buying coffee and drink yaupon tea instead
Stop buying wheat berries and grow corn as our grain
Plant large swaths of productive brassicas to feed the cows in winter instead of buying hay
Add a dozen high-production egg-layers with low feed input needs (Leghorns!) to the chicken flock
Grow more food in the greenhouse
Trying to be completely free of the grocery and feed store isn’t easy, but we are definitely getting closer. Some items, like salt, are simply impossible to replace on our homestead.
However, if the grocery stores closed tomorrow, we wouldn’t be hungry for a long time. We would just miss some things. We have over 100lbs of yams and 200lbs of pumpkins on the porch, with over 400lbs of pork in the freezer – and in a few months, spring will be here and we could quickly add a lot more to our food supply as the weather warms up and gardening gets going again.
We have been truly blessed to have land of our own again. The gardening and homesteading lessons we’ve learned over the years have helped us utilize it well, even in the first year of ownership.
Even if we don’t ever make it to full self-sufficiency on food, we certainly eat a good diet.
Rachel sent this picture of a home-raised egg a few minutes ago:
Look at how orange that egg yolk is! That’s some serious nutrition.
Our meals often consist of whatever is in season.
I’m curing some bacon in the fridge this week, so we won’t even have to buy that anymore.
And we eat homemade live-fermented pickles and sauerkraut all the time.
So how do you Reach Food Self-Sufficiency?
Food self-sufficiency is a goal you can reach for one day at a time.
First, learn to grow some vegetables. Get one garden growing well.
Then plant some fruit and nut trees.
Then, add a few chickens and learn how to raise them.
Then plant bigger gardens and learn how to dehydrate, can and pickle.
Then you can move on to a couple of pigs or sheep or goats or even cows.
Read a lot, make long-term goals, get your hands dirty and don’t give up.
And don’t just buy a bunch of animals and then spend money buying them feed. Build as you can, and grow as you can, keeping in mind that you want assets, not liabilities.
A cow that eats hay all winter and produces nothing is a liability.
A cow that produces more value in milk than she consumes in feed is an asset.
Pigs in a pen that you feed from the feed store and never butcher are an expensive hobby.
Pigs that are raised on “waste” and then butchered at a good size are an asset.
Sometimes we have to buy things, and that’s fine – but over time, we can move closer and closer to closing the loop on our homesteads and producing great food without spending too much to grow or raise it.
And remember, you don’t have to start with a big working homestead.
Just putting in a little garden and growing some organic tomatoes and cucumbers is a great start. Keep on going from there and you’ll be amazed at what you accomplish!
Our fruit trees aren’t even producing yet. Just wait until they kick in…
You can sure get close via concerted effort over time, even on a small homestead. Within a week I’ll post our final food production numbers for the year in the annual “year in review” post. Keep watching for that.
And if you want to reach food self-sufficiency, stop dreaming and start doing. One piece at a time.
Finally… Merry Feast of St. Stephen, first martyr for Christ.
We’re visiting with Tingshu Hu from Massachusetts again today. We’ve visited their beautiful garden in the spring when the flowering trees are stealing the show, and today they’re sharing their garden in the summer, with photos they took in June:
My husband loves to build structures. He designed and built all the structures in the yard by himself, the pergolas, fences, fish ponds, walkways, patios, green houses and chicken coops. He also enjoys taking pictures around the garden. All the pictures are taken by him. I take care of the plants and chickens. The most recent project was done last year. This project in the front yard includes two connected fish ponds, an aquaponic system, a patio, a pergola, a solarium, several garden beds and a walk way, all integrated together.
The new fish ponds, the pergola and plantings around it.
Fish and flower bed
The patio and flower beds under the pergola.
The front yard garden was started after Luke, our Harvanese dog, joined the family, in 2017. The picture shows Luke checking on some insects in the new draught tolerant garden, the red showy flower behind him is Ben Ledi rock rose (Helianthemum, Zone 4-9).
Peonies along the fence. The purple fence was built to keep Luke and his older brother Deedee safe. The spacing was decided based on Luke’s size when he was only 9 weeks old and 3 pounds.
Our favorite peony Madame Emile Debatene (Paeonia ‘Madame Emile Debatene’, Zone 3-8), Walker’s low catmint (Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’, Zone 4-9).
Plants along the walkway to the garden gate.
From a different angle. The flowering plants are Baptisia ‘Pink Lemonade’ (Zone 4-9), lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis, Zone 3-8), Dianthus ‘Tickled Pink’ (Zone 5-9), Salvia ‘Pink Profusion’ (Zone 3-8), and Geum ‘Totally Tangerine’ (Zone 4-7).
Easy to care plants in the draught tolerant garden. Maiden grass (Miscanthussinensis, Zone 5 – 9), catmint (Nepeta, Zone 4 – 9), Knockout rose (Rosa ‘Radrazz’, Zone 5 – 9), self seeding tricolor viola (Violatricolor, annual)
New walkway toward the fish ponds. Low growing perennials alongside the walkway. Red poppy flowers (Papaverorientale, Zone 3 – 7) can be seen outside the purple fence
These photos are all from Tingshu’s front yard, tomorrow we’ll be back to see her back garden in the summer.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Is there anything more hopeful than the first signs of growth in spring?
It’s the beginning of all the adventures of watching your plants grow, seeing them flourish, harvesting, and even putting them to bed in the fall.
I get so excited for spring that I literally start celebrating the day after the winter solstice because I know the days are getting longer from then onwards.
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I know, I probably sound unhinged. Despite all the work required to get everything up and running in the garden, spring is my favorite time of year.
But before you can enjoy the abundance of colorful flowers and flavorful vegetables, there’s a lot of preparation work to do.
The steps necessary to enjoy the spring garden start long before the daffodils start emerging. Let’s talk about how to prepare your garden for spring!
Here’s what we’ll go through in this guide:
Preparing Your Garden for Spring
The first place to start is with a good plan:
1. Plan Your Garden
You don’t have to create an elaborate diagram of your garden with precise measurements and a strict timeline, but having a basic outline of what you want to accomplish is helpful.
It helps to walk around the garden with a pen and paper or a notes app on your phone while you do this. I’ve tried making lists while I’m indoors where it’s nice and warm, and I inevitably forget something. Get out there and look around while you make notes.
Make a note of what you want to grow and where. I like to add a little note next to each species reminding me of how long the seeds will take to germinate and whether they should be started indoors or outdoors so I can organize my sowing schedule.
Speaking of seed starting, you might want to get started on that right away if you haven’t already.
2. Buy and Start Seeds
Some seeds need to be started indoors in late winter and most others in early spring. If you order your supplies online and have them shipped, you’ll need to plan even further ahead.
When you have your seeds, look back at that plan you made and start sowing them in the ground, or in containers indoors in plenty of time to plant them out when appropriate.
For example, if you’re starting tomatoes, the seeds should be sown indoors six to eight weeks before the last predicted frost date.
You might want to add an additional week for slow growers and allow time for hardening off.
If you order the seeds online, you might want to add an extra week for shipping, particularly during the holidays.
That means you’ll need to place an order ten weeks before the last predicted frost date.
3. Build or Repair Infrastructure
If you need to build any new beds or structures, do this as soon as the weather allows.
The most important consideration is light exposure. If you dream of growing big, beautiful dahlias, you’re not going to be very successful if you set up your garden in a shady area.
Spend a few days observing the sun exposure of the area you want to build in, and remember that the sun will change its position throughout the year.
Over the winter months, rain, snow, and fluctuating temperatures can wreak havoc on fences and other garden structures.
Check your trellises, fences, raised bed walls, and any other supports or structures for signs of damage. It’s much easier to repair infrastructure before plants are growing in, on, or in front of them.
Look at your raised beds, greenhouse, cold frames, and other growing areas. Are they all clean and in good repair? If not, make a plan to have them fixed.
Clean out any drainage channels, low, pooling areas, or gutters that you have. Leaves and other debris can collect in these locations and prevent water from moving.
4. Prepare the Beds
If you skip any step, don’t skip this one. I know, we all get busy, and we can’t do absolutely everything that the professionals advise.
I have a job and other responsibilities, I don’t have time to do everything! But preparing the beds is non-negotiable.
It’s the basis of all the other work we’ll do in the garden, and you can’t have healthy plants without healthy soil.
Get out there as soon as the soil is workable, and start working. You don’t want to start too early because you risk compacting the soil, and that can be a death sentence for seeds and seedlings.
If the ground is still frozen, head back inside and pass the time by reading more of our articles about gardening or jumping to other tasks on this list until the timing is right.
When the ground has thawed out, grab a handful of soil and give it a good squeeze. Does water come juicing out? Does the earth stick together in a clump? If so, the soil is still too wet to work with. Wait for the soil to dry out a little.
Different soil types retain moisture longer or shorter, depending on the composition.
Here’s a quick guide to different soil types:
Fine particle clay – forms a ball in the hand, even when there is less than 50 percent water.
Sandy or silty loam – will form a ball at around 50 percent moisture.
Coarse, sandy soil – will only form a ball at about 75 percent.
Knowing what type of soil you have in your beds will give you an understanding of whether you can expect your soil to be ready sooner or later in the spring.
Once the timing is right, remove any weeds you find that have overwintered. If you like to till your soil, do it now.
Then, work in some well-rotted compost. Compost does it all – it helps sandy soil be more water retentive and it makes clay soil less dense.
Compost adds nutrients to depleted soil without going overboard or washing off into the waterways.
Unless you already have perfect soil, I don’t think you can ever add too much compost.
In a perfect world, work it in as deep and wide as you can until the earth you’ll be gardening in is half compost and half original soil. But even if you can’t add that much, a little is better than nothing.
Top the soil with mulch, if you want, or you can wait until you have put the plants in place to add mulch. It’s a personal preference.
You should also define your beds by digging out the edge between the beds and any lawn or other areas. Shore up any edging material if it ends up sagging and collapsing during the winter.
This is also the time to test the soil, if you didn’t do it during the fall. When you get your results back, amend according to the recommendations in the report.
5. Prune and Remove Dead Material
If you left any seed heads in place for winter interest, now is the time to prune them out.
Look for any dead annuals or perennials that die back in the winter, such as hostas, and remove the material that you missed in the fall.
You should also prune off any tree or shrub branches that are broken or obviously dead.
Species such as boxwood, most fruit trees, maple, oak, and most evergreens should be pruned in the early spring for shape and to encourage flowering and fruiting, if applicable.
Most trees should have any branches that cross over each other removed.
Removing one of the crossed twigs stops the pieces from rubbing against each other, creating an opening for pathogens or pests to enter, and also opens up the crown.
All dead and decayed wood should be cut away as well, and you should also remove any remaining withered foliage that’s retained from the year before.
Roses should be tidied up at this point. Feel free to cut them back by about a third to encourage branching and a large display come summer. Learn more in our guide to pruning roses.
Remove all weeds and any volunteer seedlings that you don’t want. I have to escort errant mustard greens and marigolds out of the areas where I don’t want them every year.
Sometimes, if you aren’t sure whether those emerging greens are weeds or seedlings that you might want, you need to let them grow a little larger.
But keep a close eye on them. I made the mistake one year of letting a bed of greens grow a little bigger so I could figure out what was what and I forgot about it for a few weeks.
I ended up with way more mallow weed than I could ever use and had to battle them back all summer.
Also, make sure to check that ties already in place are not too tight, or cutting into trunks that have grown over the past year.
6. Remove Old and Add Fresh Mulch
If you heaped any mulch on your plants to protect them during the winter, remove that now.
You don’t have to take it out of the garden altogether. Spread it out evenly around the entire bed and work it into the soil where you can.
Be especially sure to remove any thick mulch from above plants that die back to under the ground in the fall.
I always recommend organic mulch. It adds organic matter, improves soil texture, suppresses weeds, and protects plant roots. Plus, it just looks better than bare soil, in my opinion.
Shredded bark or wood chips are classic choices, but grass clippings, pine needles, compost, and straw can work, as well.
Avoid placing too thick of a layer over plants that are hiding underground, like trilliums and bleeding hearts.
For example, if a plant like daylily (Hemerocallis spp.), rock rose (Helianthemum), or a hosta is growing overly large in recent seasons, it can be taken up in a large clump and split into smaller parts. You can do this with many different plants!
The standard way that most guides and gardeners will tell you to do this: put two forks back to back into the center of the clump, and pry the roots apart. A sharp spade or hori hori might be called for when splitting plants with thick root systems, like hostas.
Once the first cut has been made, the rest of the divisions usually prove to be relatively easy because you’ve loosened up the roots somewhat.
A large plant can give you enough to spread new plants around your own garden, and leave some to give away to friends. These sections can also be potted up. In fact, plants like hostas do amazingly well in containers.
Remember to water in freshly planted divisions. This settles the soil in snugly around the roots, and helps to prevent transplant shock – which can be caused by air pockets that stop fibrous roots from extending throughout the soil to access the nutrients and moisture they need for growth.
Dig up the plant and gently tease away the bulbs from the main bulb, or cut up the root, taking care to leave a few root or stem nodes on each rhizome.
It’s best to transplant any trees and shrubs that need relocation before they start to bud.
It’s easy to forget this step, but it can have a huge impact on the health of your garden. As we use our tools, they not only get dirty, but nasty pathogens can hitch a ride too.
Some of these pathogens can live a long time without a host, so they could still be hiding on your tools.
Wipe everything down with a 10 percent bleach solution of one part bleach and nine parts water mixed together. This includes mower blades, pruners, shovels, and anything else you use in your garden.
I like to sharpen my tools during the winter when there’s little chance I’ll need them, but if you haven’t already done that, do it now.
Check out your storage area and get everything organized. I like to do this in the winter, as well, but if you didn’t get around to it, do it now. Once things ramp up in spring, you’ll be glad you did.
9. Sort Out Compost
If you don’t cover your compost pile during the winter, it can become a soggy mess.
Cover the pile now to protect it from spring rain. Then, work in some additional material to help aerate the pile and start the composting process back up.
Chopped dead leaves, lawn clippings, sawdust, straw, pine needles, and lichen are all good options.
Turn the pile at least once a week while keeping it covered in between.
The old adage is true: a little preparation goes a long way. Once the weather is warm, the flowers are popping up, and you’re busy with gardening chores, you’ll be glad you took the time to do the work in advance.
Your life will be easier, your plants will be happier, and you’ll be able to enjoy your garden rather than scrambling to catch up.
What are you planting this year? Will you be tending big old beds of roses? Or maybe a small veggie garden? Let us know in the comments section below.
I hope this guide got you set for the coming season. If you found it helpful and you want more tips about seasonal gardening, you might want to check out these guides next:
Spider plants are supremely easygoing houseplants – requiring little more than just regular watering approximately once a week, and repotting every year or two.
They tend to be such fuss-free indoor companions, in fact, that you might feel a sudden sense of shock when you look in your specimen’s pot and notice thick white protuberances in the potting soil. Rest assured – all is well in houseplant land.
Those thick white things you’re seeing are just the swollen roots of your houseplant – and yes, they are supposed to look like that!
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You may have observed these fleshy, white growths while repotting your houseplant, or perhaps you noticed them emerging from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, or coming out of the top of the growing medium.
While they look very different from the underground parts of many other houseplants, they are actually just tuberous roots.
However, I have to say that calling them “just roots” really doesn’t do them justice.
Also known as “spider ivy,” “airplane plant,” “St. Bernard’s lily,” or “ribbon plant,” these tubers are part of what makes Chlorophytum comosumone of the easiest houseplants to care for!
Would you like to learn more about this part of your plant’s anatomy?
Of course you would!
Keep reading and you’ll get to know the workings of your houseplant’s underground world, so to speak.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
We’re going to get up close and personal with the subterranean anatomical features of your spider plant.
I’ve heard a few horror stories about indoor gardeners seeing those large, white tuberous roots while repotting their specimens, assuming that there was something wrong with their plant and taking the drastic step of trimming off these storage organs before repotting.
Let me make it clear that there’s absolutely no reason to do that – and taking such brutal steps will possibly kill your specimen or at best, make it hard for it to recover from the ordeal.
Now that you know what not to do, let’s consider what you should see when you remove the pot from your specimen’s root ball.
When you unpot these houseplants, you’ll likely notice a couple of different types of roots running through the soil.
You’ll find small, thin ones called “feeders” – and this is the main type you’ll notice in younger specimens that are just becoming established.
Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.
These thin structures will look similar to the underground anatomy of many of your other houseplants.
But as C. comosum specimens settle into their potting medium and start to grow, they’ll soon start producing larger, tuberous roots as well – the type that indoor gardeners sometimes find so perplexing!
Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.
These roots are long, white, and taper at both ends, thickening in the middle, and left to their own devices with sufficient space, can grow to be up to four inches wide and six inches long.
The Purpose of Thick Roots
These thick white organs are what make spider ivies such resilient houseplants – they are able to store water in these tubers, just as succulents store water in their leaves and stems.
These storage organs allow C. comosumto survive when water is sparse.
This adaptation allows the species to thrive in a variety of different habitats – which is why it has a widespread range in its native habitat. It can grow in many different environments, and is no fussy hothouse orchid.
Additionally, this ability to store water also allows C. comosum to survive the sometimes irregular visits of the bearer of the watering can! Because of this resilient adaptation, you’ll have to really neglect it to make your spider plant wilt.
However, water isn’t the only thing these tubers store – they also store nutrients for later use.
What to Do When Your Pot is Full of Roots?
If the tuberous roots gave you a surprise when you unpotted your houseplant, you should have gotten the message by now that all is well, and that this is part of the normal underground anatomy of C. comosum.
But if your plant’s pot is particularly full of these tubers, so much so that there’s barely any growing medium left in the container, you might be wondering what to do?
If you have unpotted your spider plant and see that the white roots are growing so thick that the specimen is pot bound, or if tubers are emerging from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot or out of the top of the growing medium, it’s time to consider a larger container!
These three scenarios, along with a more frequent need for water, indicate that it’s probably time to repot your specimen.
When transferring a pot bound root ball to a new container, massage the tubers a bit to try to loosen them up first.
This will allow the houseplant to spread into its new soil more easily, making the transition more successful.
And if you’d like more tips on repotting spider plants, be sure to read our article. (Coming soon!)
Rooting for Healthy Houseplants
So now you know – the thick white structures growing in the soil of your spider plant are simple tuberous roots.
These thickened storage organs help your houseplant survive spells of scant water availability, as well as keeping a backup supply of nutrients.
Were you worried when you noticed enlarged tubers in your houseplant’s potting soil? Are you relieved to learn that this part of the anatomy is completely normal? Let us know if you have any questions – just use the comments section, below!
And if you’re still not sure your spider plant’s underground parts look quite right – feel free to post a photo and explain your concern. We’d be happy to help!
We’re back in Massachusetts, visiting with Tingshu Hu again. Yesterday we took a look at summer in her front garden, today she’s sharing views from her beautiful back garden, with photos all taken last June.
Our backyard garden started with a prairifire crabapple tree (Malus ‘Prairifire’, Zone 4 – 8) and a fish pond. The pictures were taken around them.
This picture was taken on June 12, from below the branches of the crabapple tree. The flowering plants include bearded iris (Iris hybrid, Zone 3 – 8), salvia (Salvianemorosa, Zone 3 – 8), celosia (Celosiaargentea, annual) and peonies (Paeonia hybrids, Zone 3 – 8) by the white fence.
Taken on the same day, from the other side of the crabapple tree. Below the tree are shade loving plants including variegated Solomon’s seal (Polygonatumodoratum ‘Variegatum’, Zone 3 – 8), blue hosta (Hosta hybrids, Zone 3 – 8) and newly planted coleus (Plectranthusscutellarioides, Zone 10 – 11 or as annual), which will grow much bigger through the summer.
Taken on June 18. A different angle from below the tree. Our older Havanese dog Deedee (17 years old) was curious about something in the grass.
Looking from the crabapple tree toward the fish pond, a patch of wild flowers and the chicken yard (the structures at the far end.)
The crabapple tree at the center. The last flower of bearded iris. The peony flowers continued to the end of June.
Looking at the backyard garden from below an apple tree. At the right side is newly planted Ruby Falls weeping redbud (Cercis canadensis ‘Ruby Falls’, Zone 5-9) with purple leaves.
The fish pond. Plants around the fish pond include creeping jenny (Lysimachianummularia ‘Aurea’, Zone 3 – 9), coral bells (Heuchera hybrids, Zone 4 – 9), blue fescue (Festucaglauca, Zone 4 – 8), catmint (Nepeta hybrid, Zone 3 – 8), red twig variegated dogwood (Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’, Zone 2 – 8), rose campion (Lychniscoronaria, Zone 4 – 8), and Japanese maple (Acerpalmatum, Zone 5 – 9).
Looking toward the garden from behind the wild flowers. You can spy our Havanese dog Luke hiding between the flowers. Far away are the last peony flowers, and first daylily (Hemerocallis hybrids, Zone 4 – 9) flowers (picture taken on June 25).
Looking westward from the side of the fish pond. Plants around the patio include blue fescue, sweet alyssum (Lobulariamaritima, Zone 9 – 11 or as annual), zinnia (Zinniamarylandica, annual), penstemon (Penstemondigitalis, Zone 3 – 8), delphinium (Delphiniumelatum, Zone 3 – 7), rose campion, sweet William (Dianthus barbatus, Zone 3 – 8), and lots of tricolor viola from self seeding.
Looking toward the fish pond from the west side. A rose pergola stands beside the pond. A New Dawn climbing rose is blooming with pink white flowers.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Snake plants are some of the toughest, most durable, and easiest plants to care for as indoor houseplants. Large specimens can be quite impressive. Previously classified as Sansevieria, they are now part of the Dracaena family. Curious why Sansevieriais now called Dracaena?
Someone with an odd sense of humor christened this plant “Mother-In-Law’s Tongue,” referring to the sharp, “tongue”-like leaves. The somewhat snake-like leaves markings the more commonly used name of “Snake Plant.” Learn more about caring for Snake Plants here.
As a plant collector at heart, I am always fascinated by finding variations and unique plant varieties. Below, we share 30+ unique snake plant varieties to grow and collect.
#1 – Rosette Grower With Yellow Leaves And Green Stripes
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @special_flowers_f
A beautiful-looking Dracaena snake plant! Wide leaves with yellow and light green horizontal stripes form a lovely rosette pattern. Notice the brown color along the leaf margins and pointed tips.
There are about 60 species of Sansevieria or Dracaena, most of them from dry areas of Africa. Their succulent leaves allow them to live in these arid areas without water for long periods.Too much water can lead to root rot.
#2 – Upright Grower With a “Sprayed On” Color Pattern
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @valleyviewgardens
A tall, upright cultivar (possibly the variety ‘Sayuri’) with the traditional zebra-like pattern adorning its elongated leaves. Contrasting bands of silver-gray and dark green stripes look almost “sprayed on,” creating a beautiful display!
#3 – Spear-Like Plant With Cylindrical Leaves
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @plantznthings
Growing upright, this exquisite specimen showcases a rosette of stiff cylindrical leaves with silver and dark green striping and pointed tips. Big plant in a small pot!
You can also see small, white, or cream-colored fragrant flowers on a tall flower stalk, adding a captivating appearance!
Snake plants can unexpectedly produce a delicate spray of greenish-white flowers from the center of the leaf clusters. The blooms may go unnoticed until, one day, the house is filled with its fragrance.
A unique-looking snake plant variety with green foliage (sometimes) with striking yellow variegation. The elongated, curved leaves with pointed tips have a graceful growth fanning out to create a striking presence!
As you look at the leaves of this stunner, you’ll notice that each one has a distinctive variegation pattern, not to mention that it quite looks like a flower!
Some leaves display bold strokes of dark green, while others showcase delicate marbling of pale green and soft yellow. Its pointed tips, sleek edges, and glossy texture create a graceful architectural form!
Snake plants will tolerate a lot of neglect and will grow in dark spots where other plants don’t survive.
#6 – Rich Green Foliage Plant With Bold Streaks Of Silver
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @architjain.1292
This remarkable snake plant cultivar boasts a silvery hue and a smooth, glossy surface, enhancing the visual appeal. Whether placed in a modern, minimalist pot or a decorative planter, this plant will definitely make any space come alive. More about the best pot for snake plants here.
#7 – Pointed Blades With Intricate Patterns And Fiery Colors
A marvel to look at that definitely steals the spotlight with foliage resembling a lively dance of flames.
Leaves with shades of deep green, red, vibrant orange, and glowing yellow blend together like a flickering bonfire!
The dramatic leaf patterns look like the fiery brushstrokes of a passionate artist.
A living artwork that’s impossible to ignore!
#8 – Rosette-like Plant With Distinctive Coloration
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @shouchikuen.bl
Here’s another showstopper! Its thick, fleshy leaves grow in a rosette-like formation and resemble a snake’s upward movement! Lhe leaves are a radiant green shade and adorned with striking bands of light green; some have wider, bolder bands, while others may have thinner and more delicate stripes.
This visually striking plant will definitely spark conversation and add a touch of wild beauty to any space!
Dry air and temperature fluctuations, usually a problem for most house plants, don’t bother Snake Plant at all. They can tolerate sun and dense shade, both indoors and out. Here’s our full guide to Snake Plant Light Requirements
#9 – Cluster Of Leafy Funnels With Radiant Golden Hues
PinSansevieria Trifasciata Golden Banner | Photo Credit: Instagram @junacactus_
The snake plant stands tall with its striking foliage that showcases contrasting shades of golden yellow along the margins of the wide, tapered green leaves. Perfect snake plant to divide and split.
Whether placed as a solo centerpiece or added to a lush plant arrangement, this plant will truly captivate you!
#10 – Slightly Outward Grower With Intricate Variegation Pattern
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @special_flowers_f
Here’s another visual delight for gardeners out there! You’ll notice how the leaves emerge from the plant base and gracefully arch outward as if reaching for the sunlight.
Each leaf is long and slender, with pale green stripes appearing like brushstrokes. This makes the yellow and cream-colored patches stand out while creating a sense of movement and variation!
#11 – Fleshy, Cylindrical Shape Leaves With Vibrant Green Shades
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @sahabatkaktuscimahi
A charismatic succulent will definitely leave you in awe!
Boasting thick, robust leaves with a distinct cylindrical shape that sets it apart from other Sansevieria varieties.
The leaves feature a mix of vibrant shades of green, ranging from lighter tones to deeper, more intense hues.
The leaves emerge in a graceful arch, curving upwards towards the sky, creating a visually interesting appearance that catches the eye!
A stunner, this cultivar showcases gracefully arching outward leaves, creating an elegant fan-like display. Looking closely, the leaves resemble the majestic fins of a whale or shark fin slicing through the water’s surface with its broad and sturdy build.
It also boasts a gorgeous range of green hues, from lighter shades of chartreuse to deeper, richer tones of olive! This definitely makes a perfect centerpiece in any room or setting. Some varieties of Sansevieria have yellow striping in the leaves. If your plant is turning yellow and soft read this article.
#13 – Elongated Shaped Leaves With Intricate Marbling Pattern
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @sakerasanse
This plant flaunts an elongated shape of leaves that gracefully curve outward from a central point. Adorned with an intricate marbling pattern of shades of rich green, tinged with hints of yellow. The marbling pattern resembles the delicate strokes of an artist’s brush. These plants have few pests problems. For pests on Sansevieria we recommend Neem oil.
#14 – Upright Grower With Yellow-Green Leaves and White Bands
What a mesmerizing plant! This snake plant features leaves with a radiant golden hue with soft bands of horizontal white and vertical green stripes.
Its upright growth and glossy appearance also make it an excellent statement piece to brighten up any room!
#15 – Arching Plant With Silver-Green Leaves And Darker Green Markings
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @daniflora13
Here’s another beauty that’ll truly enchant you! This cultivar features a stunning shade of pale silvery-green with delicate, darker green marblings that resemble the moon’s glow!
The plant’s sleek texture and arching growth habit also add to the elegance and beauty it brings!
#16 – Rosette Shaped Plant With Green and Silvery streaks
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @sakerasanse
Another exquisite beauty! The plant forms a neat rosette shape, with each leaf featuring shades of deep, velvety green and a mix of lighter greens and silvery mint towards the tips. The dynamic coloration and pattern add texture and elegance to the plant’s aesthetic. The streaks and bands along the leaves bring a sense of movement and life to the plant!
#18 – Upright Grower With Elongated-Shaped Leaves And Variegation Pattern
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @special_flowers_f
Here’s a variegated ‘Masoniana’ variety for your collection! Elegantly elongated wide leaves tapering to a pointed tip. Deep emerald to vibrant lime variegation with a glossy sheen adds to the allure of the plant! A showstopper and a good reason they are being propagated. More on propagating Snake Plants here.
#19 – Smooth Curved Leaves With Green and Silver Mottling
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @wahyu_tgr
Here’s a snake plant cultivar similar to ‘Cleopatra’ without the brown edges that’ll make an intriguing focal point in any space!
If you look closely, the leaves boast lighter green stripes with curves resembling a fresh watermelon’s rind. The leaves’ smooth and lustrous sheen also enhances the vibrance of the colors and adds elegance to the plant’s appearance. This snake plant will surely add a pop of color and a touch of whimsy to your indoor landscape!
#20 – Arching Snake Plant With Spear-Shaped Leaves And Striking Variegation
This plant will truly catch your eye! Each leaf boasts a luscious shade of deep green and yellow with soft streaks of lighter green that resemble brushstrokes on a work of art.
This beautiful variegation and glossy sheen add a dynamic and lively element to the plant’s appearance of the plant.
#21 – Upright Grower With Dark Green Striations and Lines
An exquisite beauty that exudes a warm, tropical vibe! This snake plant grows tall and upright with elongated, narrow leaves that taper to pointed tips, like spearheads.
You’ll also notice the delicate striations and lines that run horizontally and vertically with darker shades of green on the leaves and brown color along the leaf margins.
Looking for other upright growers? Check these out:
#22 – Rosette Patterned Plant With Mottled Copper and Bronze Coloration
The leaves of this “snake” boast copper to bronze tones with deep forest green banding and reddish margins. The unique leaf pattern highlights these warm and earthy tones, creating a metallic look of the leaves that’s truly unique!
The elongated leaves are also stiff and upright, growing in a rosette pattern with wavy edges that create an architectural form. This plant will surely bring life to any house space!
#23 – Upright Grower With Slender, Cylindrical Leaves
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @plantgroovy
Be captivated by this unparalleled beauty! This snake plant showcases slender, cylindrical leaves resembling the elegant blades of a sword. Growing upright with a graceful slight arch. Deep green, tiger-striped patterns of the cylindrical leaves can be light and dark green, yellow, and sometimes white. A good aesthetic addition to a modern interior design setting!
#24 – Compact Grower With Rosette-Like Pattern And Yellow-Green Colorations
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @verde.flora.garden
Unlike the elongated leaves of other Sansevieria varieties, this cultivar, similar to ‘Kirkii’ showcases short, stout leaves that grow in a tight and symmetrical spiral. The leaves feature dark green centers and creamy white edges. The growth pattern resembles a flower’s appearance.
Whether sitting on a windowsill, adorning a desk, or placed in a terrarium, this compact form gives the plant a charming appearance, making it an adorable addition to any indoor space. Do you know what soil is Best for Sansevieria?
#25 – Fan-Shaped Snake Plant With Stiff, Cylindrical Leaves
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @hisplantdiary
This compact Sansevieria showcases fan-shaped, light green foliage with long, stiff, cylindrical leaves that grow upright from a basal rosette. The leaves resembe the arms of a starfish, similar to the popular Starfish Sansevieria.
Moreover, the leaves feature a smooth and matte texture, with dark green concentric circles from the top to the bottom of the leaf. They have a smooth and matte texture with intricate bands of lighter green or yellow-green running vertically along the leaves. If you’re into fan-shaped cylindrical leaves, you might also like the Sansevieria Boncel or Stuckyi.
#26 – Upright Grower With Cone-Like Leaves Resembling Rhino Horn
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @xiaobao85
What a show-stopping succulent!
The thick, broad leaves grow upright and cone-like, resembling a rhino’s horn.
Shades of green with delicate cream or light yellow bands.
Glossy leaf texture adds a lustrous sheen to the foliage, adding depth and dimension to its appearance.
#27 – Cylindrical Snake Plant With Distinctive Braided Leaves
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @luvequinox
Not a unique variety but definitely an intricate display of botanical artistry! The plant features long, smooth, cylindrical green leaves with deep green, soft yellow, and light green striations or lines. It also showcases cylindrical stems that intertwine and braid together.
#28 – Upright Grower With Curved Leaves And Distinct Variegation
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @yayan_katharo
Here’s another botanical marvel for you! This snake plant features compact and broad leaves that grow upright and slightly curve to the sides like a fan.
It resembles the Sansevieria hahnii, with its upright, squashed-down leaves.
The leaves boast vibrant variegations of dark green and delicate bands of silver with brown leaf margins.
This mesmerizing plant brings a pop of color and visual interest into any space!
#29 – Symmetrical Spiral Leaves With Golden-Yellow And Green Variegation
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @vivero_amazonia_
Another showstopper to include in your collection! The symmetrical spiral leaves of this snake plant are golden-yellow with dark and light green bands.
Each leaf also has a smooth, glossy texture that reflects light and intensifies the golden hues.
This plant truly creates a mesmerizing display that captivates anyone who sees it!
#30 – Cylindrical Shaped Snake Plant With Soft Yellow And Green Leaves
This is another extraordinary plant you shouldn’t miss! The unique leaf structure leaves are thick and succulent, smooth, soft yellow with light green center and dark green leaf margins. I am told it is a variegated form of the popular “moonshine.” Definitely a mesmerizing botanical wonder!
#31 – Rosette Patterned Plant With Stunning Variegated Foliage
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @spgardencenter
Here’s a stunning variegated plant guaranteed to captivate anyone who sees it!
The leaves are compact and broad, featuring a rosette pattern and tapering gracefully to a sharp point.
The edges of the leaves are adorned with dark green bands, with the delicate creamy white or yellow hues embracing the green center.
This unique pattern gives the leaves a dramatic and dynamic appearance!
Its distinctive color pattern gives the leaves a dramatic and dynamic appearance color and sets it apart from other Sansevieria varieties.
A good rule of thumb is that the less light the snake plant is in, the less frequently it needs water. It can survive no watering at all for a time. Water sparingly in winter.
Here’s an exceptional, thick, tall, and robust snake plant growing outdoors. The leaves are a rich shade of green and vertical streaks of darker green shade. If you look closely, the textured leaves grow fan-shaped, creating a striking appearance like spears. Placing this plant as a focal point will grab anyone’s attention!
#33 – Upright Grower with Cylindrical Shaped Leaves And Intricate Variegation
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @marsaflorist_bandung
Here’s another visually stunning snake plant! The leaves grow upright and tall as if reaching the sky.
The cylindrical leaves are long, thick, and adorned with a captivating variegation of vibrant greens, creamy whites, and soft yellow.
The stunning variegated foliage creates a visually stunning display of contrast and balance!
#34 – Rosette Shaped Grower With Green and Creamy White Variegation
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @marsaflorist_bandung
Another beauty to gaze upon! The snake plant’s leaves are compact and form a rosette pattern. Look closely, and you’ll see how the leaves resemble a flower blooming!
The leaves are adorned with a stunning display of variegation, with vibrant greens and creamy white streaks resembling the brushstrokes of a skilled artist on a canvas! It also has a rust color along the leaf margins.
They also grow pointed tips with a gentle curvature that adds a sense of movement to the plant’s overall appearance. Looks like Samurai, a relative of Sansevieria ehrenbergiifrom Africa.
#35 – Rosette-Shaped Plant With Yellow and Green Center Variegation
PinPhoto Credit: Instagram @marsaflorist_bandung
Another stunning snake plant with a captivating allure! The rosette-shaped leaves are elongated and grow upright, with a color palette of soft yellow and rich green in the center. The leaves also taper to a pointed tip, with a rust color along the leaf margins.
This plant’s graceful form and striking variegation make it a perfect choice for any indoor or outdoor setting!
Tillandsiaair plants are unique for their ability to grow without soil, relying on ample air circulation, moisture, and sunlight to sustain them.
They are fun houseplants because you can perch them anywhere, from bookshelves to picture frames, for eye-catching living art displays.
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Unfortunately, because they don’t grow in a pot of soil, it’s easy to forget to water them. And conversely, because we have no soil to gauge moisture levels, it’s just as easy to oversaturate them.
This article zeroes in on rescuing air plants suffering from dehydration or oversaturation.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Let’s start with a review of growing essentials.
Tillandsia Air Plant Basics
The Tillandsia genus is in the Bromeliaceae family of flora, which includes bromeliads and pineapples.
There are two types: xeric and mesic.
Both live without soil, nestling in tree bark and on other natural elements, where they absorb nutrients from moisture and organic debris via rain and wind.
T. pruinosa, a xeric species with prominent trichomes.
Xeric varieties grow in bright sunlight in semi-arid desert climes. They have prominent, hair-like “trichomes” that draw water and nutrients into their fleshy foliage, enabling them to withstand low moisture conditions. These trichomes give xeric varieties a dull gray cast.
Mesic species originate in rainforest canopies, enjoying consistent moisture and dappled sunlight. Their smaller trichomes are less prominent, so their leaves are brighter.
As houseplants, both types perform well in bright, indirect sunlight with ample air circulation. Xeric species do not require humidity, while mesic types prefer high humidity above 50 percent.
The ideal temperature range for both types to thrive is 65 to 85°F during the day and 50 to 65°F at night.
An air plant’s life cycle culminates with blooming, after which an offset or “pup” grows and the parent dies.
When providing tillandsia with moisture, allow the water to sit out in an open jug with the cap off overnight to evaporate harsh chemicals, like chlorine, a common addition to municipal tap water.
Chemicals may have adverse effects on these plants, such as foliar discoloration, and dehydration from salt accumulation that causes poor nutrient uptake.
Keep a prepared jug on hand for use as needed. Once a month, you can include liquid houseplant or bromeliad fertilizer diluted to a quarter strength.
Mist xeric types every other week, shake off the excess droplets, and allow them to dry for up to four hours, especially if you keep them in a partially enclosed container, like a terrarium.
For mesic species, mist or rinse in water twice a week or soak weekly for 20 to 30 minutes. Shake off the excess droplets and allow them to dry for up to four hours.
Take special care to dry thoroughly in an inverted position, or water may accumulate in the crown, where the leaves come together, and make them susceptible to rotting.
Inadequate light can cause conditions similar to both under- and overwatering, so supply bright indirect light daily.
With good basic care, flora is suitably hydrated and displays no under- or oversaturation symptoms. However, sometimes we forget to water, are too generous, or don’t thoroughly dry the foliage, and that’s when we need to jump into revival mode.
Here’s how!
Dehydration Symptoms and Rejuvenation
First, have a good look at your air plants. Is the foliage dull? Are the leaves green, but the tips appear brown and brittle? Is the foliage curling backward or dropping off?
If so, your plant may spiral downward and eventually die of thirst from lack of water, and fast action is required.
Start your revival efforts by removing any dead foliage using sanitized scissors. Clip off entire leaves or just the tips as needed. For the smallest species, use small nail scissors.
Then submerge the plant entirely in water, leaving it overnight.
After soaking overnight, remove the plant and shake off the excess water.
Dry inverted on paper towels.
Return to the permanent location once the leaves are completely dry.
The flip side of dehydration is oversaturation, which is harder to alleviate and can rapidly escalate to rotting.
Some species have a dark brownish base independent of the darkness the leaves typically display when they are oversaturated. Know your species and avoid underwatering types with a dark base, like Tillandsia tricolor.
Signs of oversaturation include swollen foliage, the detaching of leaves, mushiness, yellowing, and blackening.
If you notice these signs, act swiftly, using sanitized scissors or your fingers to remove mushy foliage.
Dry the remaining portions with paper towels or a hair dryer set on low, and place the plant in bright, indirect sunlight.
Allow time for recovery before watering again. When to do so is a judgment call and varies with the extent of oversaturation. Skipping one week’s watering is likely suitable.
Additional Factors
When flora is overcrowded, the moisture may not evaporate sufficiently and the plants may remain wet after misting or soaking, becoming oversaturated and prone to fungal infection. Inadequate sunlight may also contribute to foliage remaining wet.
Also, intense direct sunlight may scorch foliage, turning it brown and causing leaf drop as though the plant is underwatered. Dry plants are prone to infestation from pests like mealybugs and scale.
Specimens plagued by pests or diseases are likely to respond to revival methods better with an application of a product like organic neem oil, an insecticide and fungicide used to combat a host of houseplant issues. It has a strong garlicky smell, so use it outdoors when possible.
Finally, during the aging process, leaves naturally shed, so if this is the only “symptom,” you likely do not have a moisture stress issue.
A Second Chance
Reviving moisture-stressed tillandsia air plants is possible, provided there is still unaffected, healthy growth.
If dehydration crisps all the foliage, or oversaturation turns every leaf to mush, there will likely be no chance of recovery.
With bright, indirect sunlight, ample airflow, and appropriate moisture, air plants have the best chance of survival as houseplants. Revival measures offer home gardeners a second chance at giving them their best indoor life.
Do you grow tillandsia air plants? Have you dealt with moisture stress and revival? Please tell us about your experience in the comments section below.
Belonging to a group of plants known as the fan palms, Washingtonia robusta, aka Mexican fan palm, is the largest of all of them.
As the name suggests, this titanic tree is native to Baja, California and west into the Mexican state of Sonora.
Despite its relatively narrow native range, this beloved behemoth is grown the world over in arid, sunny climes from San Diego to Dubai to the Cote d’Azur in France.
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All fan palms love warm weather and W. robusta is no different. This species is eager to grow and is capable of putting on four feet of growth in a single year.
If you live somewhere with ample sun and minimal cold weather, read on to find out more about growing your own Mexican fan palm.
And for those of you with a brightly lit corner indoors, never fear! You can take a crack at growing this beautiful specimen inside as well.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Cultivation and History
Native to the Sonoran desert and Baja, Mexico, this drought-resistant palm can grow to 100 feet tall.
The crown bears a dense cluster of glossy, green leaves, each about five feet wide and shaped, as the name suggests, like a pleated fan.
The foliage is arranged in a tuft at the top of a tall, unbranched trunk, making it look like a giant upside down mop. It’s this somewhat comical appearance that gave it its common name, “skyduster.”
The genus name, Washingtonia, is a dedication to General George Washington. Dr. H Wendland, a prominent botanist in the late 1800s, bestowed this name on the genus and had to fight to hold onto it.
The famous moniker was in high demand and the group of trees known as sequoias almost laid claim to it.
Mexican fan palm is cultivated in the warm soils of Australia, Hawaii, the Middle East and beyond. It’s easy to grow, drought tolerant once established, and reliably bears clusters of attractive, dark colored fruit.
Hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11, this species can tolerate temperatures down to 20° F, but not for extended periods. Persistent cold weather, especially cold wet weather, will damage foliage and invite disease.
In its native habitat, Mexican fan palm provides nesting and shelter sites for birds, mammals, and insects.
Outside of its endemic range, W. robusta is listed as an invasive species in some places, such as California.
The California Invasive Plant Council has also labeled this tree a fire hazard, due to its tendency to accumulate dead, dry fronds along its trunk.
A popular houseplant gracing the well-lit confines of many an office, waiting room and home, Mexican fan palm does well indoors too.
Although it hails from the enviably sun-drenched coast of Mexico, it’s a tough cookie, and can manage conditions inside, too.
So you see, you’ve got options. Read on to learn how to start growing now.
Mexican Fan Palm Propagation
Like all true palms, W. robusta is grouped into a category of plants called “monocots.”
Monocots have parallel leaf veins, only one seed leaf instead of two, and produce flowers with petals in multiples of three.
This category of plants by and large do not grow lateral stems – they only grow upwards. For this reason, they won’t grow from cuttings.
To propagate W. robusta, you’ll have to start from seed or purchase a transplant.
From Seed
Fortunately, W. robusta is pretty easy to start from seed. If you’re a novice germinator, this species is a fun and rewarding one to try.
Seeds can be purchased online or harvested straight from the tree once fruits turn dark purple to black, indicating ripeness.
Try to remove all pulp from around the seed before you sow. Scrape off the fruit with your fingernails or the rough side with a sponge. This cleaning process helps keep unwanted fungal spores out of the planting substrate.
Once they are clean, soak the seeds in warm water for two to three days. This will help soften the seed coat and speed up germination. Change the water every day.
The cup containing the seeds should be placed on a heat mat or in bright sun to maintain a lukewarm water temperature. You don’t have to be too precise, just make sure it’s comfortably warm to the touch.
Sow seeds just below the surface of the soil in freely draining potting soil in four-inch pots. This species needs a little light to germinate, so make sure to not cover the seeds too deeply.
Sow a three or four seeds in each four-inch pot, you can separate out the strongest and best seedlings once they’ve germinated.
There are soil mixes formulated specifically for palms and it is best to use one of these.
Put the pots in bright light, on a warm sunny windowsill, or on a heat mat. Maintain a temperature of somewhere around 80 to 90°F.
Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soaking, until germination occurs. This should take a week or two.
To take proper care of newly germinated seedlings, make sure the soil stays moist but not soaking wet in between waterings.
Once your plants have produced true leaves, pot them into larger containers and slow down the watering a little bit. Getting to this stage will take a few weeks.
Generally speaking, you want young plants to be in containers that are just large enough to give them a little extra room to grow. Potting your young palms into individual four-inch pots at this stage will suffice.
At this point, you can let the surface of the soil dry out a little before watering again.
If you’re transplanting the babies you grew from seed, make sure they have at least two true leaves before moving them.
True leaves will resemble the mature plant’s leaves, but be a bit smaller. If you’re planning to grow your plants outside, expose your babies to the sun and wind gradually, increasing their exposure each day by hour long increments.
The same goes for any plant you purchased at a nursery. Make sure it is properly hardened off before planting outside.
In the garden, choose a spot in full sun with freely draining soil. This species likes relatively neutral soil, so keep the pH level somewhere around 6.0 to 7.0. If your site has a little afternoon shade, don’t worry, that will work too.
Try not to disturb your plant’s root ball too much when you dislodge it from the pot. This will give your new tree a better chance at survival.
Dig a hole a little wider than the root ball and set the plant so the top of the root ball is level with the ground.
Water thoroughly, at least once a week, until your palm shows signs of establishment, such as the emergence of new growth. This can take a few weeks to a few months.
Once these plants are established they are typically drought resistant but will need supplemental irrigation during dry spells.
If you’re transplanting into a pot, use a ceramic one with drainage holes in the bottom. You can opt to use plastic but you want your pot to be heavy enough to support the palm as it grows and not topple over easily.
Fill your container with palm tree potting soil up to the base of your transplant’s stem and water well. Pots dry out very quickly, and making sure new transplants have plenty to drink is critical to their success.
Keep the soil moist until your plants begin to grow new leaves. Allow the surface of the soil to dry out a bit, while the interior soil maintains some moisture.
Finding this sweet spot will give your new plant the hydration it needs while it grows, but prevent it from suffering from root rot.
W. robusta grows quite rapidly so make sure to pot up into larger containers as needed, always taking care to disturb the roots as little as possible.
Choose a new container that has about two inches of extra space around the existing root ball so it has plenty of room to grow.
How to Grow Mexican Fan Palms
The Mexican fan palm comes from warm, sunny climes and it expects no less when growing in your garden or gracing your home.
Keep this species in freely draining soils, give it ample sunlight, and plenty of space to grow, and it will not disappoint. Even if you’re starting with seedlings, this tree will need up to 25 feet of space between it and its neighbor when planted outside.
Make sure to choose a location where your full grown tree will not be exposed to high winds. As you can imagine, these tall trees, once full grown, can be toppled quite easily in strong winds.
Hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11 W. robusta can actually tolerate dry cold quite well.
At 20°F, this species will survive, but may suffer damage to the foliage. Persistently cold, wet weather is much more damaging to this tree and will inevitably cause fungal infections.
Although these trees will tolerate a wide variety of soil types from loam to sand to clay, the substrate must be free draining. This species is also moderately salt tolerant, so if you happen to be within walking distance to the ocean, that salty sea air won’t pose a problem.
Consider the fact that if you keep your palm tree happy, it could grow several feet in a year. Make sure it lives somewhere that won’t cramp its high-flying style.
If you are growing it as a houseplant, the conditions should be bright, warm, and not humid.
It can be challenging to make your house as comfortable for this species as the sandy hills of Baja, California.
For this reason, W. robusta often does better on a warm, sunny patio from late spring through early fall, and then in a greenhouse or bright bay window for the duration of winter.
Even when grown in a pot this species can grow quite large, so make sure to get some help when moving the container to and fro.
Wherever you situate your plant, make sure it gets at least six hours of bright sunlight per day. Use a ceramic pot to encourage good drainage and aeration of the soil. Water thoroughly, but allow the soil to dry out to an inch down before watering again.
During winter, like many plants, this species enters a period of dormancy and slower growth.
Decrease watering at this time to avoid root rot and other fungal problems. You may only need to water once every three weeks though the winter, but this will depend on the placement of your tree and its individual needs.
Growing Tips
Plant in freely draining soil.
Site in a location with abundant sunlight.
Provide plenty of space to grow.
Avoid cramped or humid conditions which will invite fungal problems.
Water once a week during the first six months after planting in the absence of rain and then only in dry spells.
Maintenance
Maintenance for an indoor W. robusta is a little more involved than for specimens living outside.
In the garden, you can mostly be blissfully hands-off once your Mexican fan palm is established.
If your plant is situated in freely draining soil, has plenty of space to stretch out, and is basking in ample sun, just stand back and enjoy!
Indoor Mexican fan palms benefit from monthly doses of fertilizer during the growing season.
For best results, use a special palm tree food for monthly applications and make sure to water deeply after adding any kind of fertilizer to help nutrients trickle down to the roots.
If you need a recommendation, Miracle-Gro has a palm-specific formula, available via Amazon.
If your outdoor tree is growing well without fertilization, feel free to leave it be – you can apply a top dressing of compost, several inches thick, once in spring and summer.
It’s not strictly necessary unless you see signs of nutrient deficiency such as sparse foliage or discolored blotches on the leaf tips.
Once this species prepares to enter dormancy in late fall, stop fertilization to avoid encouraging leggy growth.
Pruning Mexican fan palm fronds will rob this species of the iconic shaggy skirt that makes them so eye-catching.
However, if you’ve planted your tree outdoors in a high traffic area, prune dead fronds to stop them flying off in high winds and injuring passersby.
To cut off a dead frond, use a sharp pruning saw and remove it as close to the base as possible, without damaging the tree’s trunk.
If you are growing your specimen as a houseplant, it’s best to remove dead fronds as they wither.
Dead or diseased foliage in indoor conditions can create the perfect environment for pests to prosper. The same goes for any spent flowers or fruit.
Where to Buy Mexican Fan Palms
Mexican fan palm is available at many garden nurseries that carry a wide selection of indoor, or tropical plants.
Fortunately, the Mexican fan palm is as tough as they come.
Indoor specimens may suffer from an infestation of mealybugs or whiteflies if they are kept in cramped, poorly lit, or overly humid conditions. Outside, there’s not a lot to be worried about.
Pests
Here’s a general overview of some pests you might encounter outdoors:
Palm Leaf Skeletonizer
The larvae of the palm leaf skeletonizer moth (Homaledra sabalella) create large translucent blotches on W. robusta leaves and can cause leaves to die and drop off.
Keep your eyes peeled for the droppings of the caterpillars, which look like teeny black or green balls.
If you find them, wash the leaves vigorously with a strong stream of water from the hose and remove any that remain by hand.
Palm Weevils
Palm weevils in theRhynchophorus genus can cause major damage to palms.
The adult weevils lay eggs in the crown of the palm and the larvae feed on soft, juicy bud tissue. Because these trees can only produce shoots that grow up, and not laterally, damage to the plant’s sole point of growth is often fatal.
If you manage to catch the infestation early, remove and destroy the insects and/or apply neem oil.
Many other types of palm weevils feed on the crown of these trees, however, none are as destructive as the invasive R. palmarum and R. ferrugineus.
Disease
Most of the common issues affecting Mexican fan palms are related to an overabundance of moisture.
Butt Rot
Butt rot is caused by the fungus Ganoderma zonatum, and as it progresses the trunk decays and gradually turns hollow.
Among the first signs of infection are drooping or yellowing leaves. Unfortunately, there is no cure for butt rot.
G. zonatum is commonly found in soils, and sadly, the only way to control this condition is to destroy all diseased plants and avoid planting palms in the same location.
This fungus can affect both indoor and outdoor specimens.
Fusarium wilt
The easiest to identify symptom of this disease, caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum, is the rapid death of older leaves.
At first, leaves appear to be affected only on one side of the midrib, but the fungus eventually spreads across the entire leaf, killing it.
Ultimately, this disease will kill the tree. Currently, there is no cure for fusarium wilt and it can affect both indoor and outdoor trees.
Phytophthora Bud Rot
Phytophthora palmivora is a water mold (oomycete) that kills tender, developing tissues in new leaves and buds. The first signs of infestation are discolored, wilting leaves.
This pathogen typically gains a foothold when trees are damaged by cold or physical trauma.
Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease. Any affected plants and their soil should be destroyed, and not composted, to prevent further spread.
Young specimens are generally more susceptible than those that are well established.
Best Uses for Mexican Fan Palms
If you’re lucky enough to live somewhere where sunshine and warm weather is constant, use one of these quick-growing trees to really make a statement in your garden.
W. robusta is a hardy, unfussy, and all around excellent choice for a landscape tree of epic proportions.
Just bear in mind it will grow tall – very, very tall – and can be toppled more easily than smaller trees in high winds.
If you live in the colder climes but are longing for the warmth of Baja, try this adaptable tree in a pot, either indoors as a houseplant or a patio specimen with winter protection.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Evergreen monocotyledonous perennial
Flower/Foliage Color:
Cream; light to dark green
Native to:
Mexico
Maintenance:
Low
Hardiness (USDA Zones):
9-11
Tolerance:
Drought, part shade, salt, soil compaction
Bloom Time:
Summer
Soil Type:
Loose, sandy to loamy
Exposure:
Full sun
Soil pH:
6.0-7.0
Spacing:
25 feet or more
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
Just below surface (seeds), depth of root system (transplants)
Nothing evokes the warm sun so vividly as the sight of palm fronds swaying in the breeze. Try this giant among palms in your garden or patio and let it transport you to somewhere tropical.
Are you part of the Mexican fan palm fan club? Let us know in the comments! And if you have any questions, we are happy to help.
LIKE EVERYONE around this time of year, I get into a “looking back while looking ahead” combined mindset. Today I want to do just that, but with a sort of ecological filter, taking stock of how things in the garden fared in the bigger environmental picture and what opportunities lie ahead for me to read nature’s signals even more closely and be an ever better steward of the place.
Who better to talk about that with than my guest, Uli Lorimer, director of horticulture at Native Plant Trust, the nation’s oldest plant-conservation organization.
Uli Lorimer, author of “The Northeast Native Plant Primer” (affiliate link), has made native plants his life’s work. In 2019, he became director of horticulture at Native Plant Trust, which was founded in 1900 as the New England Wild Flower Society. Previously he was a longtime curator of the Native Flora Garden at Brooklyn Botanic Garden.
Those are Eastern hemlock cones (Tsuga canadensis), above, in a photo by Uli, and we’ll talk about how vulnerable hemlocks are, and also about the critical need to develop regional seed sources for native plants.
Plus: Comment in the box near the bottom of the page for a chance to win a copy of Uli’s book.
Read along as you listen to the Dec. 25, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
ecological thoughts at the new year, with uli lorimer
Margaret Roach: Happy almost New Year, Uli. Who knows what-
Uli Lorimer: So hard to tell these days.
Margaret: What a crazy-feeling year here for me, and I’m sort of across Massachusetts, over the New York border from you, but it’s the same place I’ve been in for decades. And this might sound familiar to people:
I’ve been here a long time, but it felt sort of unrecognizable [laughter]. Relentless amounts of rain, I had my first spongy moth infestation ever, jumping worms at epic levels, no real winter yet even though we’re really nearing the end of the year, and all capped off by the USDA’s new hardiness zone map that moves me, once again, half a zone warmer. So I’d love to start with your feedback, as a native plant-focused person, on the new map, for instance, because that’s kind of timely.
Uli: Yeah, I mean, I can’t say I was surprised to see the zones inch up a little bit more, and I think it’s just another way of marking that climate change is real and it’s here. And if you look at the longer period of time, let’s say the last few decades, you can see how dramatically those ranges have shifted. I feel like the news is mostly met with a positive note, and folks thinking, “Boy, I can grow more tender perennials now,” and different things that maybe weren’t fully hardy in our zone now.
But I had a slightly different reaction, and I thought about plants that really like cold conditions, and things that need deep cold winters. And I’m thinking of all of the lovely plants that you could find just across the Hudson River up in the Catskills, for example. So balsam fir forests that only exist currently above 3,500 feet—those plants are struggling. You mentioned it being one of the wettest years on record, and that came on the heels of a pretty droughty year the year before. And for those forests and those plant communities and all those sort of lovely little treasures that reside within, they’re getting squeezed off the top of the mountain, and that’s concerning.
Margaret: And it’s not just things at high elevation, either. Aren’t there other plants as well that have cold requirements to be successful and thrive?
Uli: Yeah. I mean, back when I was at Brooklyn Botanic Garden, we were doing the New York Metropolitan Flora Project, which is sort of a 30-year look at changes in floristics in a major metropolitan area. And there were records of Cornus canadensis, bunchberry[above, recently renamed Chamaepericlymenum canadense], which is another one of these really beautiful herbaceous groundcovers, last being seen in northern New Jersey in the 1920s, and then now completely extirpated and gone. If we fast forward maybe another 50 years, it may also be extirpated from the Catskills if this trend continues.
And it also makes it harder for native-plant enthusiasts to grow those plants in a garden setting. Here at Garden in the Woods we do grow it, but I don’t think we grow it as well as it does in habitat in those mountainous regions. That tends to struggle, particularly I feel like the issue is not so much cold, but also warm, humid summer nights that these plants don’t like. So it has effect across all of that suite of plants that you usually associate with more northern and colder climates.
Margaret: And it’s not just here, there are examples just like those two in every region of the country that will or won’t acclimate as well or thrive in the evolving conditions, even though they were “native,” that it’s their traditional range, that they’re not going to be as happy as things shift. It’s complicated. It’s very complicated.
Uli: Certainly. The other thing, which is complicated and concerning and depressing and I would love to get all that out at the beginning of the show-
Margaret: Whee! Let’s be depressed. Yay! Happy New Year! [Laughter.]
Uli: …has to do with pest pressures. You mentioned spongy moth. And so with milder winters and not cold winters, it allows for more of those pest organisms to, overwinter, to survive. In some cases, things like Southern pine beetle might even be able to turn over two generations in a single season. And I was just talking to a good friend, Rodney Eason, who worked in Acadia for many, many years, and mentioned that hemlock woolly adelgid is just beginning to show up there.
Margaret: In Maine.
Uli: In Maine. So the iconic Acadia National Park, it’s just beginning to show up, and largely due to the fact that the winters are getting milder and milder and those organisms are not getting killed off by the minus-10, minus-20 degree periods that used to be the normal.
Margaret: Yes. I keep thinking about snow cover, and how growing up in the Northeastern region that we had persistent snow cover for weeks and weeks and weeks and weeks, if not months. And then that’s gradually changed. And I keep thinking about—this is a complete derailment, sorry, but you know how I am, how my brain works [laughter]—but I keep thinking about the subnivean layer, that sort of little layer between the soil, the ground surface, and the bottom of the snow and all the creatures that, in the winter, utilize that area. And I keep thinking: but it doesn’t exist. Where are they all? What are they doing? Do you know what I mean?
Uli: Yeah, yeah. I love that term, by the way, subnivean. It’s just such a wonderful word. No, but not just where do those organisms exist without snow cover, but you lose the insulating effect of the snow and you get more of that sort of frost-thaw cycle with the soil and more heaving, and it really disrupts that entire winter ecosystem when we don’t have consistent snow period and snow cover.
Margaret: Because it had an insulating… It was an insulator, as you’re saying.
Uli: If folks are interested, there’s a really wonderful researcher named Elizabeth Burakowski, I think out of University of New Hampshire, who studies exactly these winter effects on climate change, and what’s happening with the decreased snow cover. And she’s got some really wonderful research.
Margaret: Oh, great. Good tip. Thank you.
Uli: She’s really wonderful.
Margaret: Well, another topic that was probably on the minds of gardeners throughout the country as they closed out the 2023 garden—and some are still doing that right now—and that will be on our minds again as we all look ahead to starting for 2024, is sort of the ethic of gentler care of the garden, especially at those both ends. The so-called cleanups that used to be so fastidious, like such control and domination over all the plants.
And the call in recent years, with ecology in mind, has been to “leave the leaves” and so on. So there’s more and more awareness of that gentler approach, which speaks to a greater environmental awareness, in general, for gardeners. So looking back and looking ahead, what, at Native Plant Trust, at your properties, have you shifted or did you always “leave the leaves”? Both at the fall and at the spring end, the going-to-sleep and waking-up ends of the garden, what’s the guidance and what do you see that has changed recently, or ahas you’ve had?
Uli: Well, for us, I think because the Garden in the Woods is in the woods, so we have to manage a lot of leaves. And so I think that we tend to let them lay where they fall for the most part, although we do, in the Curtis Woodland, we’ve got fairly extensive plantings of Phlox divaricata[above] and Phlox stolonifera, so creeping and woodland phlox. And we found that leaving the leaf cover over the winter actually, it’s not a detriment to the plants, but they do need to be uncovered a little bit in the springtime. And so that ends up, again, it’s sort of like protection and insulation for them. And believe it or not, there’s enough light that filters through so they still are able to photosynthesize. But then those are areas that we try to lightly rake free a little bit ahead of spring growth.
Otherwise, paying attention to where leaves naturally accumulate, both areas where may be little swales, and trying to plan for plants that don’t mind deep leaf litter. So if it’s an area that will accumulate maybe 8 or 12 inches of leaves over the winter, we’re going to put things like Solomon’s seal or ferns, or something that have strong enough growth that they can push through all of that leaf litter and they don’t seem to mind.
On the flip side of that, what we’ve been doing quite a bit, which I really like, is finding spots where prevailing wind patterns keep the ground bare and where moss naturally grows. We’ll try to help that along and kind of keep those moss patches going, and they end up being the really perfect place to display, what botanists like to call “belly plants,” things that you need to get down on your belly to see. So-
Margaret: Belly plants, I love that. [Laughter.]
Uli: So things like Houstonia[bluets, above], things like partridge berry [Mitchella] or trailing Arbutus [Epigaea repens], these really delicate, wonderful spring charmers that would just be utterly lost and smothered if the leaf litter got to be too heavy.
Margaret: So you’re reading the landscape then for clues on places that can accommodate these little treasures, is that…
Uli: Yeah. Well, you think of it this way: Let’s say you really want to have a planting of bluets in a place. You can set yourself up to sort of forever-maintenance, to keep clearing that space of leaves or shredding it and add extra tasks, or work with what the landscape is telling you and shift your planting designs and plans to eliminate busy work, in other words. You don’t have to keep fussing over this one little spot, because the winds keep it clear, and the bluets just seed themselves into the moss and you don’t really do anything.
Margaret: Right, so this and into midwinter and so forth would be a good time to maybe go out and take some notes and observe and write down where those places are in your landscape that nature—the wind patterns because the topography and so forth, and the prevailing winds—seems to leave cleaner [laughter]. That’s interesting. I never really thought about that, but now mental image I’m having of like, “Oh, right, that’s where all my leaves always accumulate, but I don’t have any over there.” Huh. Yeah.
Uli: Well the other thing, the flip side of that, too, is to say that if you’re clearing your leaves from the lawn, and to go back to what you were saying earlier about the “leave the leaves” campaign, I think there is, for some people it looks unkempt or untidy if you don’t do anything. And I think there’s a middle ground where you can still embrace these ecological intentions and techniques and have a garden that looks like you’re caring for it.
And so where I’m driving with this is that many people are creatures of habit, so they do the same thing every year. And maybe you blow your leaves into the same shrub every year. And I think that you should take a look at that practice and say, am I burying this thing year after year, or does it not care? Is it O.K.? I see, driving around, sometimes I see some of the lawn services in homes that abut woods, they’re just blowing the leaves right into the woods.
And I think that accumulation of leaf litter can be bad for some plants. It certainly is the right kind of habitats for jumping worms to get a foothold into. For us here at the garden, we had an area that used to be really populated with a lot of mountain laurels, and they were in decline when I arrived, and I was trying to figure out why. And so I began to dig around at the base of the shrubs, only to find that they had been buried under 12 to 14 inches of leaf mold. And it made sense when I was like, “Oh, because the way the path goes here, we just blow off the leaves into the beds every year in the same spot, in the same spot,” and the shrubs were really in decline because of that.
And so now we’ve shifted our practices, and we rake those and put them somewhere else, and the laurels seemed to be making a recovery. So it was another little aha moment of, maybe be a little critical about how you do your maintenance and if you’re doing the same thing every year. And pay attention and observe. I think those are the two things that gardeners do really well.
Margaret: Another—I call it a trend, but in recent years that I see more and more and people ask me about and I hear friends doing and experimenting with more—is growing things from seed, especially native plants, because a lot of times the ones you’re seeking aren’t necessarily available at anywhere near you. I can buy in from some of the famous longtime purveyors of native plants, who might be located in the Midwest or somewhere else. I can buy in things that technically are native in my region if I look at their range maps and so forth. But it’s not really the local version, the local ecotype; it’s not the local genetics.
And so more and more people are saying, “Well, I really want to find this one that’s really from here, and that’s adapted to here.” And I know you guys are involved in… So what I’m saying is, I think people want native plants that are even more locally native and they are frustrated, so they’re learning to grow them from seed and multiply their numbers of them. But I think you’re doing that on a larger scale; you’re involved with that on a larger scale.
artist Jada Fitch
Uli: Yeah, I mean, so a few comments to make. First, thank you for bringing up seeds, because I absolutely love them. I think, for me, it completes a full circle. When I got into horticulture, you get really attracted to plants and flowers and then to seedheads, and then learning to collect seed and clean and grow them and see that same plant complete that full life circle is just really fulfilling and whole, in a way.
And I feel that many folks who decide to grow their own from seed experience that same joy and fulfillment of like, “Hey, I took this tiny little thing and I sowed it outside and covered it for the winter, and then this magic happened in the springtime, and I got, out of a packet of seeds, I got hundreds of plants.”
And it’s so much more economical that way. And it connects people, I think, on a much deeper level to their gardens when they can say, “Hey, I grew that from seed, and look at it now. Now it’s spreading and now I know how to collect that seed and share it with my neighbors, or cast it about or grow more.”
I think it’s a really wonderful activity. And so there’s some really great folks, and we spoke about this before, the folks at Wild Seed Project in Portland, Maine have really fantastic resources on how to do winter sowing and kind of slow gardening. And they take a lot of the sort of mystery out of it, but none of the magic. And I think that it’s a great resource. [Above, a winter-sowing illustration by Jada Fitch from Wild Seed Project.]
Margaret: And it’s not a lot of fancy equipment. It’s letting nature provide the chill period that’s required for a lot of these native plants to then eventually germinate. And it’s low-tech. It’s just the timing and protecting them from rodents [laughter], so the rodents don’t eat your seed. But that’s the big thing, but that’s about it.
But you’re trying to help, again, unless we collect locally from our own place that we have one plant and we want to have more plants, sometimes it’s hard to get the seed that’s a local ecotype.
Uli: So we’re involved in what’s called the Northeast Seed Network, and this is a very new effort to address that lack of availability of seed in the Northeast. And we’re seeing this from two different perspectives in that folks that are ecological restoration practitioners can’t find the right kinds of materials to put back into wild places after, let’s say, invasive-species removal or mitigation projects. And then certainly the thirst for native plants from the horticulture side has just really exploded over the past couple of years, and it’s hard to find plants, let alone seeds.
So this effort is really aimed at building that supply chain so that we have more people growing plants for seed production, and that can then feed into nurseries that can grow more plants for folks to buy, and that can also supply the restoration industry at scale for the important work that they’re doing as well.
And so we have a lot of wonderful partners from Wild Seed Project, Smith College, Ecological Health Network, some of the local organic farming associations in Connecticut and New York, Hilltop Hanover Farm closer down to where you are, and representatives of some nurseries as well, Pinelands, Planters’ Choice, Van Berkum Nursery. A lot of people are really recognizing that this type of supply chain and infrastructure is completely lacking in the Northeast, and so we’re taking steps to address that.
And so it’s not just the people collecting seed and growing it, but also we’re building proper facilities to clean the seed and house it so that it can be made available throughout the year.
Margaret: It was originally someone at Cornell who told me about it, actually; I learned about it from someone at Cornell University who does the Native Lawn project there. He turned me onto it. So yeah, it sounds very interesting.
Uli: Yeah, it’s just getting started, and I think that in the coming years we will really going to be building out the supply chain, the market, all the educational and workshops and training materials and everything that goes with it. So we’re really excited about the potential impact that this can have for native plant enthusiasts and restoration practitioners in the Northeast.
Margaret: I just wanted to ask you for some looking ahead [laughter]. I mean, we all, as gardeners, we’re all like, “Ooh, I really want to get this plant. I really want to get…” Are there plants that you think of as the wishlist plants of the next wave? That you’d love to see more people grow, or that you guys are increasing or hoping to increase your stock of, or that you just want to put out there as like, “Hey, this is a really great plant.”
Because I think when a lot of us think “native plant,” we go to the regular garden center, it’s like, well, there’s a purple coneflower. But a purple coneflower is [laughter], if you look at the map where it’s native to, it’s not native to most of our areas at all. So I’m just wondering if—and again, people are in all different regions of the country who are listening—but I was just curious if there’s something that you sort of lust after that you’re hoping to see come to popularity?
Uli: Well, I mean, I think that maybe some people think of this as a boring answer, but I think sedges [Carex] are really, have so much utility and I think we’re just beginning to kind of scratch the surface of the ones that are commercially available. And they’ve got applications from sedges that grow in dry sand, all the way to ones that will grow in standing water and everything in between. And I think of them as sort of the glue or the matrix that ties together your asters and your goldenrod and all the other sorts of more colorful plants. [Above, Pennsylvania sedge.]
Because we’re also a conservation organization, I’m always inherently interested in more unusual plants and rare plants. And so I think that we need to find a good way for gardeners to ethically have access to those kinds of plants. And this is sort of a bigger conversation that has to involve natural heritage bureaus and so forth, but I think there needs to be a way that people can support plant conservation in their backyards as well as supporting insects and wildlife and birds and butterflies with all of the common things as well. So that’s something that I would love to try to advance those conversations next year because there’s some really wonderful plants that ought to be more available for folks to grow.
Margaret: Right. And then there’s just things that grow that we have always grown and we’ve all been digging them out for so long, and maybe we should give them a chance to stay awhile. I’m thinking of pokeweed [laughter]. I have a magnificent specimen of pokeweed in my backyard right now. And for so many years I pulled it all out. I dug it all out madly. And it’s fabulous, right?
Uli: It’s tough to get rid of.
Margaret: Do you know what I mean? I mean, the birds love it [laughter].
Uli: Yeah. No, I mean, the fruit has huge wildlife value. And I think I even remember there being a chartreuse selection at Wave Hill when I first started there and I thought-
Margaret: Oh, interesting.
Uli: This is a plant that most people would immediately rip out, and here they’ve recognized its aesthetic beauty and those hot pink fruit influorescences.
Margaret: Yeah, crazy.
Uli: And I was like, “What a cool plant.” And I was so glad they found a good way to use it.
Margaret: Well, Uli Lorimer, I’m always glad to talk to you. And happy whatever comes next [laughter]. Whether we get a winter or not, we’ll see. And I look forward to talking to you again in the new year.
Is there a native plant that plays a key role in your garden—or that you simply love? (Tell us what region you’re in.)
No answer, or feeling shy? Just say something like “count me in” and I will, but a reply is even better. I’ll pick a random winner after entries close at midnight Tuesday, Jan. 2, 2024. Good luck to all.
(Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)
prefer the podcast version of the show?
MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Dec. 25, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
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Whether it’s serving you as a living Christmas tree or a long term houseplant, you want your Norfolk Island pine’s foliage to remain evergreen, not showing a display of sad, yellow or brown leaves.
If you’ve noticed discolored, yellow or brown needles on your houseplant, you may be wondering if you let it go too long without water.
But there are other reasons the foliage of these conifer trees can turn unsightly hues!
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In this article you’ll learn about 11 causes of yellow or brown leaves on Norfolk Island pines.
By understanding these different reasons for discoloration, you can then choose the right solution to help your tree turn green again.
Ready to learn how to return your tree to its former green glory? Here’s a sneak peek at the list of potential causes of yellow or brown needles:
While not the most common reason for brown leaves on Norfolk pines, anthracnose is a fungal disease, caused by Colletotrichum derridis, that can affect these trees leading to discolored foliage.
In addition to causing brown needles, you will also notice black specks on foliage if anthracnose is the problem.
While a definitive diagnosis of anthracnose can only be carried out via analysis in a laboratory, if you think your plant’s brown needles may have been initiated by this fungal organism, there are a few steps you can take.
If possible, remove infected foliage and dispose of it – it can either be buried, or added to a compost bin, as long as the pile heats up to at least 140°F.
You can also apply neem oil to the plant to prevent the spread of the fungus to unaffected branches.
Neem oil is a fungicide, insecticide, and miticide that is safe for use around humans, dogs, and cats.
Monterey neem oil is available for purchase as a concentrate or ready to use in several different sizes from Arbico Organics.
Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions for application and keep plants out of direct sun for a few days after applying this product – oil on the plant’s leaves can cause scorching.
As a final step to prevent the spread of anthracnose, avoid watering plants from overhead since damp conditions are favorable for the development of the disease.
2. Direct Sunlight
Norfolk pines can certainly grow outdoors under the direct rays of the sun – as they do in their native environment, and in areas where they have naturalized or are grown as ornamentals.
Yet, for houseplants grown indoors, a sudden shift to full sun can be too much of a good thing, too fast.
Too much direct sun can cause brown leaves.
Vulnerable specimens can react to sudden direct sun exposure with scorched brown needles that may have reddish undertones.
To prevent brown leaves caused by sun scorching, gradually introduce the conifer to brighter, more direct light, if that is your goal.
However, direct sun isn’t a requirement for these trees. Bright, indirect light will provide for their needs just fine, and can encourage slower growth, a boon for houseplant parents hoping to keep these plants from bumping up against their ceilings.
3. Cold Temperatures or Drafts
Did you leave your living Christmas tree outdoors on a deck or patio when temperatures dropped in autumn, or perhaps you transferred it outdoors too early in spring?
If so, being exposed to cold weather may have caused the tree’s brown needles.
Brown needles are sometimes caused by cold exposure.
These conifers prefer temperatures above 50°F, and can be killed by temperatures 35°F or lower. When exposed to temperatures approaching freezing, brown leaves can appear.
But if exposure to chilly outdoor weather isn’t the culprit, check your tree’s location for cold drafts too.
Chimneys can create colder microclimates inside homes, and locations near windows and doors can also be drafty.
The best temperature range for these trees is 60 to 72°F, so keep that as your goal and relocate your conifer if needed.
4. Hot Temperatures
Are you summering your houseplant out of doors?
If so, be wary of heat waves since temperatures over 95°F can damage the plants, causing branch tips and growing tips to react to hot conditions by turning brown.
Heat can cause brown leaves on Norfolk pines.
For this reason, it might be best to keep your Norfolk Island pine indoors all year round – which can also help prevent it from outgrowing your home too quickly.
Likewise, when your houseplant is indoors, brown leaves may indicate the plant is in a hot microclimate within your home.
While a living Christmas tree might look cozy next to the fireplace, a fire can radiate heat that may be too toasty for the tree, so prioritize a different location for this houseplant.
5. Low Humidity
Some indoor gardeners may notice brown needles on the growing tips of their living Christmas trees as a result of low humidity.
Wondering what the best air moisture level is for these houseplants? A relative humidity of approximately 50 percent is ideal.
While those in desert locations may experience low humidity levels year-round, inhabitants of other climates can suffer from dry air during winter when heating systems are turned on, causing brown leaves on Norfolk pines.
If you suspect low humidity is an issue in your home, make sure this is the case before using a humidifier, since adding humidity to an already moist environment could cause mold problems.
To test your indoor humidity, you can use an inexpensive humidity meter, also known as a hygrometer, such as this one, which is analog and doesn’t require any batteries or charging:
You can purchase a two-pack of mini analog hygrometer and thermometer combos from the Wacool Store via Amazon.
If you determine that your indoor humidity levels are lower than 50 percent, you may want to use a humidifier near the plant to help raise the moisture levels in the air.
This large, black humidifier is quiet during operation and holds just over one gallon of water, offering 40 hours of humidification. It’s available for purchase from Rosekm via Amazon.
6. Low Light
Are the branches on your living Christmas tree turning yellow and drooping?
This combination of symptoms indicates that light exposure is too low for the amount of water the plant is being offered.
When these plants are kept as houseplants, bright indirect light with a few hours of direct morning sunlight is ideal.
If you’re not sure whether the light you are providing to your conifer is sufficient, a light meter is a helpful tool that can provide you with objective data about light exposure.
Norfolk Island pines need at least 400 foot candles of light to thrive, while 200 foot candles will allow them to simply survive. If yours isn’t receiving enough light, try moving it closer to a window, or consider supplementing with a grow light.
If you’re keeping your tree in medium or low light, you may need to reduce the amount of water you provide. Aim to water only when the top inch of the plant’s growing medium is dry.
Keeping a houseplant healthy is primarily about finding the right balance between light exposure and water – when light intensity is lower, watering frequency will also need to be less often.
7. Natural Leaf Shedding
This is one reason for brown leaves that isn’t a cause for concern: natural leaf shedding.
It’s completely normal for a Norfolk Island pine to lose some of its needles.
This process should happen slowly among the oldest branches on the plant.
Natural leaf shedding causes brown needles on older branches.
On the other hand, if needles turn brown more quickly or the top branches are affected, it is likely caused by a different issue.
8. Nutrient Deficiency
If your Norfolk Island pine is taking on an overall yellowish cast and is being grown in very bright light or full sun, it may be turning yellow because it is lacking macronutrients and needs more fertilizer. Intense light can increase the plant’s need for nutrients.
To help with this, feed the living Christmas tree with a 3-1-2 (NPK) fertilizer.
On the other hand, if only the branch tips and growing tip of your Norfolk Island pine have turned yellow, a micronutrient deficiency may be the problem.
This can be a problem particularly when these conifers are planted in growing medium with a pH above 7.0.
Most houseplant growing mediums will have a pH of less than 7.0, but if you’re not sure it doesn’t hurt to test it and find out.
If it seems that a nutrient deficiency could be a problem for your houseplant, you may want to feed your houseplant some macronutrients, some micronutrients – or even both.
Luckily, there are products that supply both macronutrients and micronutrients, such as Grow from Mission Fertilizer.
Mission Organic Grow 3-1-2 Fertilizer is rich in micronutrients and is available in quart or gallon jugs from Mission Fertilizer via Amazon.
9. Root Rot
Does your houseplant look like it’s dehydrated while its growing medium is still wet? The problem may be root rot.
Root rot can cause yellow or brown leaves on living Christmas trees.
Ironically, too much water is usually the root cause of this disease – pun intended. The excess water starves roots of oxygen, causing them to rot and allowing pathogenic organisms to flourish.
Dead roots fail to take up any water, and the plant starts to dry out, as indicated by its yellow or brown needles.
Root rot lies behind yellow or brown leaves on overwatered houseplants.
There are different ways that this conifer’s roots can suffer from too much water.
The most straightforward way is when a houseplant parent is overzealous with their watering can, not permitting the soil to dry out enough between waterings.
Make sure to allow the top inch of the growing medium to dry between waterings. For smaller specimens, make that the top half-inch.
If you aren’t the only member in your household, make sure everyone knows the rules about watering houseplants – some well-intended humans tend to empty their half-finished glasses of water in houseplant pots, without realizing this can lead to overwatering.
Another red flag is a pot without drainage holes. Drainage holes help keep the growing medium well-aerated, allowing water to flow through but not stagnate.
If your houseplant’s pot lacks drainage holes, go ahead and repot it, and change out the growing medium while you’re at it.
Need a growing medium recommendation? One of my favorites is De La Tank’s House Plant Mix.
You can purchase De La Tank’s House Plant Mix from Tank’s Green Stuff via Arbico Organics.
Finally, if the Norfolk Island pine is in a pot that is too large, this can lead to a wet, stagnant growing medium. Since the plant’s roots don’t extend far into the soil, the medium is much slower to dry.
If root rot seems to be the problem, just so you know, it can be difficult to bring a plant back from this disease, but it’s always worth a try!
First determine the reason the soil is staying too moist, then unpot the plant and trim any dead, rotting roots, and transplant it into the right sized pot with a well-draining growing medium.
10. Spider Mites
Spider mites are pests that can feed on these conifers, causing brown leaves with an orangish tone.
Hard to spot due to their small size, infestations of spider mites often go unnoticed until webs are formed on the plants.
If you detect spider mites on your Norfolk Island pine, don’t worry, there’s a non-toxic solution that’s safe to use inside your home – neem oil, the same product I recommended to prevent the spread of anthracnose.
Neem oil doesn’t kill spider mites directly, instead it interrupts their growth cycle, so you’ll need to reapply this product periodically until the pests are gone.
Be sure to spray the entire plant with the product, and keep the tree out of direct sun for a few days, as mentioned above.
As always, read the manufacturer’s directions before applying.
Finally, one of the most common causes for brown needles on Norfolk Island pines is underwatering.
If this houseplant is neglected for long enough, it will start to sacrifice its lower branches and eventually the growing tip will also turn brown and die.
While mature specimens can sometimes recover from such ill treatment, younger ones are more vulnerable and are less likely to survive.
Older brown needles and new green branch tip on a tree that recovered from underwatering. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.
If your conifer has had some of its branches turn brown due to lack of water, trim them off and get the plant back on a good watering routine. Some plants are able to recover and will put out new green branch tips and growing tips.
While some trees will recover from underwatering, it’s not a great idea to test your houseplant’s resilience over and over.
So make sure to water your Norfolk Island pine tree when the top inch of growing medium is dry.
An Ever Green Living Christmas Tree
If this guide has helped you identify the cause of yellow or brown needles on your Norfolk Island pine, hopefully you will now be able to address the problem and return your conifer to its former green glory!
As for those yellow or brown leaves, as long as the entire plant isn’t affected, you can prune off the unsightly tips or branches and allow your houseplant to grow new green ones.
However, avoid removing the growing tip on the top of the plant unless it is brown.
Did this article help you? If so we’d love to know – just leave us a note in the comments section below. And if you still need help troubleshooting a living Christmas tree problem, be sure to upload photos of your houseplant so that we can see what’s going on.
