Joseph here, in northern Indiana, where normally December and January is an indoor-only gardening season, with lots of snow, frigid temperatures, and ground frozen solid.
Not this winter, though. We’ve been having absurdly warm temperatures, and bizarrely when everything would normally be deeply dormant, I still have things flowering!
Here’s what is showing off in my garden… do you have any winter bloomers going strong at home?
This is one of the ‘Cool Wave’ series, pansies that make long, trailing stems. They look so good spilling out of my window boxes.
I also grew a bunch of the variety ‘Flirty Skirts’ which have these wonderfully ruffled blooms.
Some are more ruffled than others, but they’re all beautiful.
This bright yellow is a nice bit of sunshine in our typically cloudy winter weather.
And this Cool Wave variety has been so nice – lots of flowers, with a great pattern.
I also have snowdrops blooming! This is the species Galanthuselwesii (Zone 4 – 7) which I got because it is a little larger than the typical Galanthusnivalis (Zone 3 – 7). Last year they all bloomed in the spring, but with the warmer weather, I have a handful blooming now, and some that even started back in November.
I just planted these a couple year ago. I can’t wait for them to multiply into nice clumps.
Finally, I have primroses (Primula hybrid, Zone 3 – 8) blooming! These have always started early, but never THIS early. They’re a long way for full bloom, but it is great to see some color this time of year.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
When it comes to indoor plants, do you have a green thumb, or do you manage to kill off even the hardiest variety of plants? Well, we have some helpful tips to keep your houseplants thriving at any skill level, plus some helpful plant selections whether you’re a novice or seasoned expert.
General Houseplant Tips
The Right Plant for Your Environment
The same way outdoor plants do best in their native environment, you’ll have the most success with houseplants that are suited for your specific living space. Simply sticking a plant on a windowsill is not ensuring a plant’s best environment. Light, potting medium, water/drainage, temperature and humidity are key elements for plant health – let’s explore each of these:
Proper Lighting for Your Houseplants – Plants have different light requirements, from bright and direct to diffused and indirect or minimal light. Brighter, more intense light will come from windows that face south or west, while softer, more minimal light will come from northern and eastern facing windows. When assessing the light level in places in your home, don’t forget to take into account window treatments or furnishings and/or décor that can further hinder light distribution.
Ensuring Adequate Houseplant Water/Drainage – More is definitely not better. In fact, overwatering is usually the most common reason people kill houseplants. Too much water smothers roots, which often shows up in the yellowing of leaves which, in turn, can be misinterpreted as a plant needing more water, setting up a deadly watering cycle. Make sure containers have drainage holes for excess water to escape from or a layer of pebbles or stones to keep roots from soaking in collected water.
What Potting Medium That Should Be Used For Houseplants – You can find a variety of good quality potting soils created specifically for houseplants at your local garden center. Houseplant potting soil is usually “lighter” allowing for better drainage, and formulated to include nutrients that will help your plant grow. Houseplant potting soils may include elements like coco coir that expands when wet, helping to keep the soil more evenly moist without waterlogging roots, for a longer period of time. Look for ingredients such as earthworm castings, perlite, kelp, coco coir, as noted, and mycorrhizae – fungal roots that can help plants uptake nutrients more efficiently and may protect against common soil diseases.
Temperature Regulation for Houseplants – Plants like consistency when it comes to temperature, and generally, foliage houseplants grow best between 70° and 80°F during the day and from 60° to 68°F at night. Most flowering houseplants prefer the same daytime range but grow best with nighttime temperatures of 55° to 60°F. Placing a plant by a drafty window where leaves are subjected to both strong, heat-intense light and blasts of cold air causes too much stress on a plant, so avoid those conditions.
Proper Humidity Levels for Houseplants – This is an element often overlooked for houseplants, but our heated homes are typically very dry. The solution for this isn’t more watering, but instead to create a more humid environment. This can be achieved by grouping plants with similar light/temperature requirements together, and either misting the plants regularly or having a dish filled with pebbles and water (making sure the water doesn’t touch the plant bottom) underneath the plants to create a microclimate of increased humidity.
Tomatoes are a favorite in the garden, but sometimes, they refuse to ripen on the vine. This can be due to early frost, disease, extreme heat, or the end of the growing season. This article explains the science behind tomato ripening and provides practical solutions for turning those green tomatoes red, even when it’s too cold or hot outside.
The Science Behind Tomato Ripening
Tomatoes are warm-weather crops, and their ripening process is significantly influenced by temperature. When the weather gets cold, the enzymes responsible for breaking down chlorophyll and converting other pigments to give the tomato its red color slow down or stop working altogether.
This is why tomatoes don’t ripen in cold weather. They need warmth to activate these enzymes and kick-start the ripening process.
On the other hand, if it’s too hot, tomatoes may overripe, become mushy, and lose their flavor. Sunscald and sunburn are also common during extreme heat in a hot summer climate.
During the daytime, tomatoes thrive in temperatures between 70°F (21°C) and 85°F (29°C). At night, the temperature should ideally be between 60°F (15°C) and 70°F (21°C) for optimal growth 1.
Temperatures above 90°F (32°C) during the day and above 70°F (21°C) at night can negatively impact tomato growth and productivity 2.
4 Solutions for Ripening Tomatoes in Cold (and Hot) Weather
1. Topping the Plants to Ripen Tomatoes
Topping involves cutting off the top of the tomato plant a few weeks before the first expected frost or end of the season. This stops the plant from producing new flowers and redirects its energy towards ripening the existing fruits.
Cutting off the growing tip of tomatoes encourages the ripening of existing tomatoes.
2. Reducing Watering to Turn Green Tomatoes Red
By reducing watering, you’re stressing the plant slightly, which can stimulate it to ripen its fruit faster. Be careful not to overdo it, though, as too much stress can harm the plant. Learn more about how to grow tomatoes in this blog post.
3. Using Row Covers and Shade
When nighttime temperatures go below 60°F (15°C), row covers, or plant blankets can provide additional warmth to your plants, protecting them from frost and helping them ripen their fruit.
Once daytime temperatures are above 90°F (32°C), providing shade can cool the soil and the temperature around the plants. This allows the plant additional time to ripen before becoming too hot.
4. Bring the Tomatoes Indoors to Turn Green Tomatoes Red
If the weather gets too cold or temperatures are rising fast, consider picking the tomatoes and bringing them indoors to ripen. Here’s how to do it:
Select tomatoes that have a slight blush to bring inside.
First, pick the tomatoes that are mature but not yet ripe. They should be full-sized, with a slight blush of color. Immature green tomatoes probably won’t ripen off the vine.
Wipe off any dirt from the tomatoes. If they’re wet, dry them to prevent mold growth.
Option one:
Put tomatoes stem side down in a basket on the counter. They will ripen, and you’ll be able to see how quickly they are ripening and use them as they become ripe. I put the most green tomatoes on the bottom and the ones closer to being ripe on the top layer.
Place tomatoes stem side down to ripen.
Option two:
Place tomatoes in a paper bag or box and close it. The bag traps ethylene gas the tomatoes produce and speeds up the ripening process. If desired, place a ripe banana or apple in the bag with the tomatoes. These fruits emit additional ethylene gas and will accelerate the ripening process.
Tomatoes ripening in a box.
Check the tomatoes daily. Depending on their maturity and the room temperature, the ripening process may take anywhere from a few days to a couple of weeks.
Remove any ripe tomatoes. A ripe tomato will be bright red (or yellow, orange, etc., depending on the variety), slightly soft to the touch, and have a fresh tomato scent.
What about the flavor? Will they taste as good as vine-ripened tomatoes?
Many gardeners believe tomatoes taste better when left to ripen on the vine. However, studies have shown that tomatoes picked at the mature-green stage and ripened indoors under controlled conditions can taste just as good as those left on the vine. There is one way to find out: try it for yourself and see if you can taste a difference.
Storing Ripe Tomatoes
Once your tomatoes are ripe, store them at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, for use within a week. To extend their shelf life, consider canning, drying, or freezing your tomatoes.
If this post about how to turn green tomatoes red was helpful, please share it:
If you live in a hot summer climate, plant these ten perennial herbs once, and you’ll enjoy harvests for years!
A perennial is a species that completes its life cycle over three or more years, with the ability to survive both winter and summer and can be harvested without killing the plant. Each one of these herbs has survived for several years in my low desert Arizona garden.
Perennial herbs are a simple way to increase production and yield in the garden. Once you plant them, you can harvest them for years to come!
10 Perennial Herbs Every Gardener in Hot Summer Climate Should Grow
1. Bay Laurel
Bay Laurel is a slow grower and can take up to 2 years to establish, but once it does, it can survive for many years.
2. Lemon Grass
Lemon grass is easy to grow and requires very little maintenance. It grows well in partial sun or full sun and well-drained soil.
I like to grow sage in the corner of a raised bed. It prefers well-drained soil with full sunlight. Give this perennial herb a trim in early spring and again at the end of summer to keep it looking it’s best.
When choosing a transplant, rub a leaf to smell the aroma. Choose plants with the most potent aroma for the best flavor. Planting oregano in pots or containers is a great option to prevent spreading.
Thyme is my favorite perennial herb for cooking. I usually grow thyme in several locations throughout my garden. It does best with afternoon shade during the summer.
Mint can spread, so grow in containers. This tough plant often dies back during the hottest months of the year but usually returns with abundant growth in the fall.
Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) houseplants usually perk us up with their colorful blooms during the bleak and chilly winter months.
But sometimes they can begin to look downright droopy. There are a few different reasons for the “flop,” from dormancy to diseases and more.
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For full information about cyclamen care, check out our growing guide. In this article, we’ll specifically explore the causes of drooping and wilting, and offer solutions to help.
We’ll get to the root of the problem together and have your C. persicum perking up in no time.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
If you’re ready, let’s jump right in and get started!
1. Dormancy
Seasonal dormancy is the most obvious cause of drooping in cyclamen plants. The onset of this phase can appear worrisome, but it’s completely normal and natural.
So, what exactly is going on with this whole dormancy thing? Let me explain.
C. persicum is native to the Mediterranean region where the plants bloom in the cool and humid winter months, then wind down and rest through the dry, hot summers.
In colder regions like the US and Canada, where this plant lives indoors, the dormancy period typically begins in late spring or early summer.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
At the start of the dormant phase, you’ll probably notice your plant’s leaves start to turn yellow, go limp, and dry up.
Because conditions in our homes and local climates can vary, it’s tough to pinpoint the exact timing for this phase.
But if your plant was thriving a short while ago and the dates on your calendar line up, chances are good that everything is normal, and your cyclamen is totally fine.
If the plant is going dormant then you can expect and accept the drooping foliage and go with the flow!
If you’ve ruled out dormancy, there could be a few other factors affecting the health of your plant, including nutrition. When cyclamens aren’t fertilized properly, they might begin to droop.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
These houseplants don’t demand a feast, but a balanced fertilization schedule during the growth and flowering phase, including the right nutrients, in the correct amounts, can make all the difference to the health of your plant.
But here’s the catch: overdoing it can be counterproductive, and the plant may wilt as a result of overfertilization.
Too much fertilizer can cause your plant to produce new growth quickly. Aboveground, you’ll notice a burst of lush, green growth, but under the soil, the tuber and roots will struggle to keep up.
The new, beautiful growth will demand more support than the roots can provide and sustain, and leaves and flowers will begin to wilt and die. So, what should you do?
For our cyclamen friends, the trick lies in choosing the correct fertilizer, and then applying it at the right time.
Find a product that is formulated for flowering plants.
Look for a nutrient ratio that goes easy on nitrogen (N) and is generous with phosphorus (P). Think along the lines of a 5-10-5 (NPK) blend, and you’ll be right on track.
This all-natural, granular fertilizer has a ratio of 4-8-4 and is ideal for regular application.
If your cyclamen is wilting, and you’re not fertilizing or you’re using a product with a different nutrient ratio, switching to this should help it recover.
Only apply fertilizer during the active growing season, not during the dormant phase.
You’ll most likely need to feed your houseplant approximately every two weeks, but remember to always follow the instructions on the package as the timing can vary depending on what product you choose.
If you’ve been overfertilizing, back off for a bit. Stop feeding for three to four weeks to let your plant recover, then begin with the correct amount and schedule.
If you haven’t been fertilizing correctly you should expect to see an improvement soon after you begin your new regimen.
3. Too Much or Not Enough Light
Imagine being at a concert. You want the volume to be loud enough so you can really feel the music but not so loud that it hurts your ears, leaving you discombobulated for days, right?
Well, that’s how cyclamens feel about light. They want the “volume” set just right – a bright but soft indirect exposure.
In regions where the days are short and gloomy, especially during those winter months, cyclamens might start to slump, as if to say, “We could use a bit more brightness here!”
It’s your job to provide enough light, but be aware that while lack of light can cause your plants to wilt and droop, too much light can harm them too.
Exposure to direct sunlight will make them droop faster than you can say “shade.” It can even cause leaves to dry out and wither.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
What’s the perfect sweet spot for these delicate beauties? Try an east-facing window where they’ll bask in the morning light and avoid the harsh midday sun.
Even during cold months, the sun streaming through a south-facing window on a clear winter day can be too much for these plants.
Aim for about four to six hours of indirect light and your plants should reward you with green perky foliage and cheerful blossoms.
By catering to your cyclamen’s light preferences, you’re setting it up to thrive, preventing and avoiding the dreadful droop.
4. High Temperatures
Cyclamens are sensitive to temperature. Growing outdoors in their native regions, C. persicum plants are in their active growing phase during winter.
As houseplants, they do best with daytime temperatures between 60 and 65°F (18°C).
If your cyclamen is performing poorly, the plant could be too warm. Now, I’m not saying you need to keep your home at a chilly 60°F all winter long. That’s a bit too cold, even for my Scandinavian blood!
What I’m saying is that you should avoid direct heat from furnace vents, heat registers, or fireplaces. You might like to be toasty warm, but your plant will not.
If your cyclamen is drooping or wilting, it could be asking you to turn down the heat. Set your thermostat at a realistic temperature and place your plant in a location where it won’t be roasted.
Unless you lose power or abandon your home leaving it completely unheated, don’t worry about the temperature dropping too low. If your home gets too cold, all your houseplants will likely freeze and fail, and so will you!
Keep your cyclamen indoors where it won’t freeze, but don’t let it get too warm either.
5. Water and Humidity Issues
Cyclamens have specific needs when it comes to hydration. Sad, withering foliage could be a sign that you’re not meeting those requirements.
These houseplants like their potting mix to be moist but not saturated. This means you need to stay on top of a consistent watering schedule, monitoring the moisture levels, and adjusting to accommodate changing needs as a result of fluctuating air humidity or evaporation.
The key to knowing when to water is easy. Poke your finger about an inch deep into the soil and if it’s moist, leave it a few days and check again. If it’s dry, give your buddy a drink.
When watering, aim your watering can for the surface of the soil and avoid wetting the leaves and crown. You might enjoy a long shower, but this plant won’t.
If your plant is wilting because it’s underwatered, you can try a 15-minute soak from the bottom. It’s not a requirement, but bottom-watering is a good method for cyclamens.
It can be helpful to perk up a dry, drooping plant or used as the main method of regular watering. Your choice!
To bottom-water, place the pot into a shallow dish of water and let your plant soak up what it needs.
Let’s not forget that proper drainage can make a world of difference to a drooping cyclamen. They don’t like wet feet and sitting in too much water can also cause rot, which can result in wilting.
Your pot should have holes in the bottom where excess water can escape. If the container doesn’t have holes, it’s time for a quick move.
This is a rare occasion when it’s okay to repot during the active growing season. Choose a pot with drainage holes in the bottom and follow the repotting steps described below, under Pot Size.
Speaking of hydration, cyclamens adore humidity. If your cyclamen is floppy, the air in your home might be a bit too dry for the plant.
Here’s a simple fix: Find a shallow tray and fill it with pebbles, then add water just below the pebble line. Place your cyclamen pot atop this setup.
As the water evaporates, it’s like giving your plant a refreshing facial mist. Remember to refill the tray as needed.
Any source of heat can suck moisture out of the air while it’s warming your space, so choose a home for your potted friend that’s a good distance away from heating vents, radiators, wood burning stoves or any other heat source.
Watering at the right time, ensuring proper drainage, and controlling humidity in the air around your cyclamen will help it recover and flourish.
6. Pests and Disease
If your cyclamen is showing symptoms of wilt, drooping, or failing to thrive, and you’ve considered all the factors I’ve mentioned so far, you may be dealing with an insect infestation or disease.
Pests
Houseplants typically have less exposure to insect pests than outdoor plants, but there are some that can make their way into our homes.
Insects also have the potential to introduce disease while they directly damage plants, so it’s important to address infestations as soon as you notice them.
The most common pests to watch for are:
Most of these pests can be controlled with some attention and care.
Cultural control methods like proper watering and routine inspection to address issues before they get out of hand, can help to prevent a major infestation.
When introducing new plants into your home, inspect them closely for signs of bugs and disease.
To avoid spreading to other plants, it’s a good idea to keep new additions separated from the rest of your houseplant collection for at least two weeks while you monitor for insect activity and signs of damage.
You can also employ mechanical or manual control methods like handpicking, clipping heavily infested sections of the infested plant, and using sticky traps to catch bugs.
Most insect infestations on cyclamens will cause noticeable damage like leaf curl, brown or yellow discoloration or holes in foliage.
In many cases, wilting and drooping foliage may appear as a secondary symptom.
The most common insect to cause direct symptoms of drooping and wilting is the dreaded fungus gnat.
These rascals reproduce in the soil and then buzz around everywhere, laying eggs in the soil of your other houseplants. Before you know it, they’ve staked a claim in every pot in your house and refuse eviction.
In cyclamens, fungus gnat larvae feed on the tuber in the soil as well as on young, emerging leaves. If the infestation is severe, it can damage the tuber enough to cause the plant to die, and early symptoms are wilting and drooping leaves.
I’ve got a tried-and-true dual combination method to stop them in their tracks: sticky traps and nematodes.
Because I’ve had a few gnat infestations now – they sneak in via the soil of new plants, and in the summer months when the patio door is opening and closing a hundred times a day – I keep a sticky trap always tucked inside one or two pots now, just to monitor for newcomers.
Biological control methods can be a lifesaver too. Consider introducing beneficial nematodes to help control unwanted pest populations that breed in the soil.
I always keep a fresh container of Nema Knights Nematodes on hand, sold by The Environmental Factor via Amazon.
This is a shaker-style container and it’s simple to use. You just shake out some little “pearls” containing the nematodes onto the soil, water in, and let the microscopic critters feast on the bad guys hiding in the potting mix.
Lastly, using insecticides is an option if you’re highly motivated to save your plant. Choose the right pesticide for the specific pest you’re trying to target and always follow label directions carefully.
Cyclamen mites are worth mentioning here, not only because they share their name with this plant, but because they can be difficult to treat. These little troublemakers cause stunting and curled leaves, and eventually drooping, wilting, and death of the plant.
They’re so tiny that they can only be seen with a microscope, and they multiply quickly, so usually by the time you realize what’s causing the problem, their population has already grown out of control.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
You can try treating cyclamen mites with miticidal or insecticidal soaps, or horticultural oil. Even then, you may never gain control over these insects.
In this case it might be best to dispose of the plant, not only to protect your other houseplants, but to save yourself the time, agony, and drawn-out heartbreak. Say your last goodbye, wipe your tears, and move on.
Disease
Bacterial soft rot, Erwinia carotovora or E. chrysanthemi as well as Pythium (Pythium spp.) and Thielaviopsis (Thielaviopsis basicola) root rot,are common causes of drooping and wilting.
Root rot is typically caused by excessive moisture in the soil, which is why it’s important to avoid overwatering and ensure good drainage. Rot cannot be cured, so it’s best to toss a plant that is infected.
If you notice gray fuzzy mold present on the tuber or at the base of the plant, alongside drooping or wilting, you may be dealing with a fungal infection like Botrytis blight, caused by Botrytis cinerea.
Fungal diseases can be treated with fungicides. I like natural products, so I prefer to use Bonide® Liquid Copper Fungicide.
It’s available as powder dust or liquid spray and you can find it at Arbico Organics.
Fusarium wilt, caused by Fusarium oxysporum, presents symptoms of yellowing in leaves, followed by wilting.
All the foliage falls off and eventually the plant dies. If it’s the middle of winter when a cyclamen should be growing, it could be a victim of Fusarium wilt.
Keep in mind that in the case of Fusarium wilt, as with root rot, the best practice is to dispose of infected plants as there is no effective treatment.
Many diseases can be avoided by following best practices for watering and general care and upkeep. As well, ensure good air circulation and ventilation in your home, and jump on any insect infestations when you spot them.
And as I’ve mentioned already, it’s essential to regularly inspect your plants for signs of pests and disease.
Early detection and intervention can help to prevent future damage to your cyclamen and surrounding houseplants.
7. Pot Size
Has your cyclamen grown too big for its pot? Just like other potted plants, C. persicum might throw a mini tantrum by starting to droop and wilt when it needs a larger pot.
Expect to repot your cyclamen every two to three years. The frequency will vary depending on how fast your plant is growing and the size of its current container.
If you’ve checked all the other variables on this list, and you haven’t repotted your cyclamen for at least two years, this is likely the reason your plant is drooping or wilting.
To know for sure, you’ll need to inspect what’s going on beneath the soil to see if the roots are potbound.
However, the best time to inspect the tuber and roots is during the summer when the plants are dormant.
If you choose to repot your cyclamen in the middle of the winter when it should be in its active growth cycle, it will need time to recover and adjust to its new pot.
Leaf and flower production will likely be low for the rest of the cycle. However, it should move into dormancy and grow normally the following winter.
Plan ahead for repotting. Choose a new container that’s about an inch bigger than the current one. Bigger isn’t always better. A big pot has a large volume of potting soil which can retain too much water and increase the risk of root rot.
When you’re ready to make the move, add some potting medium to the new pot. Carefully lift your cyclamen out of its old pot and gently brush off any old soil, but don’t rinse it with water.
Place the tuber in its new pot. Fill around the sides of the tuber with potting mix and leave the top of the tuber peeking out of the soil. This might sound funny, but it’s how cyclamens prefer to grow.
The bottom of the tuber should be underground, and the top should have some exposure to air. This doesn’t need to be a precise measurement but aim for 25 to 40 percent aboveground.
Now let your tuber chill for the rest of the summer in a cool, shaded spot. Come fall, gradually start watering again to kickstart its growth cycle.
With its new digs, your cyclamen should leave its droopy days of the last season behind. The next growing phase you shouldn’t see droop or wilt if the issue was pot size.
Wilting to Winning!
From pot sizes to pesky pests, there are a myriad of reasons your cyclamen might be drooping.
But with a sprinkle of knowledge and a dash of care, you’re now equipped to bring that vibrant, healthy vibe back to your plant.
Do you have a quirky question to ask or a cyclamen success story to share? Feel free to drop a comment below!
I’ve spent a lot of (digital) ink explaining how the two root crops differ, and explaining the various types of yams we grow, from Dioscorea alata to Dioscorea bulbifera, D. polystachya to D. rotundata.
For fun, I decided to see if an AI writer could manage to explain the differences between sweet potatoes and yams.
I went to AI-writer.com and signed up for an account, then asked their AI to “write an article explaining the difference between sweet potatoes and true yams.”
The resulting article was riddled with errors. This is unsurprising, since the internet is full of bad information, and AI draws deeply from that endless well of stupid. The writing style was also boring and unnecessarily wordy.
However, the AI did manage to compile a remarkable list of references for its article.
I reprint it in its entirety here, along with my own parenthetical notes.
I also decided to illustrate it with helpful AI images created by Fotor.
Enjoy.
Introduction: Understanding The Sweet Potato And True Yam Distinction
When it comes to root vegetables, sweet potatoes and true yams are often mistakenly used interchangeably.
However, despite their similar appearance and taste, these two tuberous crops belong to entirely different plant families and possess distinct characteristics. Understanding the difference between sweet potatoes and true yams is not only essential for culinary purposes but also for a deeper appreciation of their historical significance. [0, 1, 2]
Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are widely enjoyed across the globe, known for their vibrant orange flesh and sweet flavor (Not necessarily – there are white, purple and other varieties, some of which are more starchy than sweet). Contrary to popular belief, sweet potatoes are not related to regular white or red potatoes.
They belong to the morning glory family (Convolvulaceae) and thrive in warm climates. On the other hand, true yams (Dioscorea spp.) originate from Africa, Asia, and Latin America. [3, 4, 5, 6, 7]
These starchy tubers have a rough exterior skin with a range of colors including brown, purple, or black. This article aims to shed light on the distinctive features of sweet potatoes and true yams by exploring their botanical origins, nutritional composition, culinary uses, as well as dispelling common misconceptions surrounding these root vegetables. [8, 2]
Origins And Characteristics: Unveiling The Roots Of Sweet Potatoes And True Yams
Sweet potatoes and true yams are often mistakenly used interchangeably, leading to confusion regarding their origins and characteristics. While both belong to the Dioscoreaceae family (wrong – also contradicts the 2nd paragraph), they differ significantly in terms of botanical classification, appearance, taste, and geographical distribution. Originating from Central or South America around 5,000 years ago, sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are tuberous root vegetables characterized by their elongated shape with tapered ends. [2, 5]
These versatile vegetables come in various colors including orange, yellow, and purple. With a sweet flavor profile reminiscent of brown sugar or caramel (not always!), they are a popular ingredient in both savory and sweet dishes. In contrast, true yams (Dioscorea species) have roots tracing back to Africa and Asia. These starchy tubers belong to a different botanical family altogether. They possess rougher skin with a bark-like texture and come in various sizes ranging from small to massive. [2, 9, 10, 11]
True yams have a neutral flavor profile that is closer to a regular potato but slightly sweeter (not necessarily). Geographically speaking, sweet potatoes are widely cultivated across the Americas, Africa, Asia, and even Europe. [12, 13]
Nutritional Profiles: Analyzing The Health Benefits Of Sweet Potatoes Vs. True Yams
When it comes to comparing the nutritional profiles of sweet potatoes and true yams, several key differences arise. Both root vegetables offer unique health benefits, but understanding their distinctions is crucial in making informed dietary choices. (“crucial!) [2]
Sweet potatoes are often lauded for their high vitamin A content. These vibrant tubers are packed with beta-carotene, a precursor to vitamin A that promotes healthy vision and boosts immune function. Additionally, sweet potatoes are a great source of fiber and potassium while being relatively low in calories and fat. [14, 2, 15]
On the other hand, true yams possess distinct characteristics that set them apart from sweet potatoes. True yams tend to be starchier and have a higher carbohydrate content compared to sweet potatoes. They are an excellent source of energy due to their complex carbohydrates, which provide sustained fuel for the body. [2, 16, 17]
Furthermore, true yams contain essential minerals like manganese and copper, which play vital roles in various bodily functions such as metabolism and antioxidant defense. [1]
In conclusion, while both sweet potatoes and true yams offer valuable nutritional benefits, they differ significantly in terms of vitamin content, carbohydrate composition, and mineral profiles. Understanding these distinctions allows individuals to tailor their diets according to specific health requirements or personal preferences. (man alive… could we be more wordy without saying anything of value?) [18, 0]
Culinary Uses And Flavor Profiles: Exploring The Versatility Of Sweet Potatoes And True Yams
When it comes to culinary uses, sweet potatoes and true yams offer distinct flavors and textures that can elevate any dish (really? what about adding them to key lime pie?) . Sweet potatoes, known for their vibrant orange flesh (there’s that colorism again), are incredibly versatile in the kitchen (no they aren’t). They can be roasted, mashed, boiled, or even turned into fries. Their natural sweetness makes them a popular choice for both savory and sweet preparations (their sweetness does not really make them ideal for savory preparations). From hearty stews to delectable pies, sweet potatoes lend themselves well to a wide range of recipes. [2, 9]
On the other hand, true yams have a starchier texture with a milder flavor compared to their sweet potato counterparts. They are commonly used in African and Caribbean cuisines but are gaining popularity worldwide due to their unique characteristics. Unlike sweet potatoes which can be enjoyed in various forms, true yams are often boiled or fried before being added to soups or stews (this really makes little sense – yams are also enjoyed in “various forms,” and uncooked sweet potatoes are anti-nutritional). [2, 19]
Both sweet potatoes and true yams bring their own distinct qualities to the table. Whether you prefer the sweetness of a caramelized sweet potato casserole or the heartiness of a yam-infused curry dish, these tubers offer endless possibilities for culinary exploration. [20, 11]
Conclusion: Embracing The Unique Qualities Of Sweet Potatoes And True Yams
In conclusion, it is evident that sweet potatoes and true yams are distinct tuberous vegetables with their own unique qualities. While they may share a few similarities in appearance, taste, and nutritional value, their differences far outweigh these commonalities. Sweet potatoes are often mislabeled as yams due to their orange flesh and sweet flavor. However, true yams possess a starchy texture and come in various colors like white, yellow, or purple. [3, 0, 21, 22] (keep repeating yourself until you hit your word count, kid!)
Furthermore, true yams are typically larger in size compared to sweet potatoes. From a nutritional standpoint, both sweet potatoes and true yams offer significant health benefits. They are excellent sources of dietary fiber, vitamins A and C, potassium, and antioxidants. However, it is worth noting that the nutrient composition may slightly differ between the two varieties. (two varieties?) Ultimately, embracing the unique qualities of both sweet potatoes and true yams allows us to broaden our culinary horizons. [1, 23, 9, 24, 0]
Incorporating these versatile tubers into our diet not only adds variety but also enhances our overall well-being. So whether you prefer the creamy sweetness of a baked sweet potato or the hearty texture of a roasted true yam dish, exploring these distinct flavors will undoubtedly enrich your culinary experience. [25, 11]
References
[0] “Yams vs Sweet Potatoes: Unearthing the Tasty Truth”, chefd.com, Unknown, https://chefd.com/yams-vs-sweet-potatoes/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [1] “Yams vs. Sweet Potatoes: Top 4 Benefits of Yam Nutrition – Dr. Axe”, draxe.com, Unknown, https://draxe.com/nutrition/yams/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [2] “Sweet Potato vs Yam: A Comprehensive Comparison”, savorysuitcase.com, Unknown, https://www.savorysuitcase.com/sweet-potato-vs-yam/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [3] “Yams vs. Sweet Potatoes: What’s the Difference?”, thepioneerwoman.com, Unknown, https://www.thepioneerwoman.com/food-cooking/cooking-tips-tutorials/a40807287/yams-vs-sweet-potatoes/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [4] “Can Pets Eat Sweet Potatoes?”, barkandwhiskers.com, Unknown, https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2023-12-28-can-you-feed-sweet-potatoes-to-your-pets/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [5] “Sweet Potato vs. Yam Nutrition: MUST KNOW Info for Your Health”, momswhothink.com, Unknown, https://www.momswhothink.com/sweet-potato-vs-yam-nutrition-full-comparison-of-calories-vitamins/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [6] “The Difference Between Yams and Sweet Potatoes”, marthastewart.com, Unknown, https://www.marthastewart.com/8169219/yams-sweet-potatoes-differences-explained, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [7] “Are sweet potatoes and yams the same thing? | Horticulture and Home Pest News”, hortnews.extension.iastate.edu, Unknown, https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/faq/are-sweet-potatoes-and-yams-same-thing, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [8] “Sweet Potato Health Benefits: 10 Reasons To Eat Sweet Potatoes”, foodrevolution.org, Unknown, https://foodrevolution.org/blog/sweet-potato-health-benefits/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [9] “Is It a Sweet Potato or a Yam?: Unraveling the Differences – Pepper Natural Health and Wellness”, peppernaturalhealth.com, Unknown, https://www.peppernaturalhealth.com/is-it-a-sweet-potato-or-a-yam-unraveling-the-differences/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [10] “Sweet Potato: Grow Your Own for Next Year’s Holiday Table – Acreage Life – Nebraska”, acreagenebraska.org, Unknown, https://acreagenebraska.org/2020/12/07/sweet-potato-grow-your-own-for-next-years-holiday-table/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [11] “Yams vs. Sweet Potatoes – Which is Better? >> Joyful Dumplings”, joyfuldumplings.com, Unknown, https://joyfuldumplings.com/yams-vs-sweet-potatoes/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [12] “Yams vs. Sweet Potatoes – Demystifying the Confusion | Blog”, trueleafmarket.com, Unknown, https://www.trueleafmarket.com/blogs/articles/yams-vs-sweet-potatoes-demystifying-the-confusion, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [13] “On the difference between sweet potatoes and yams – Elisabeth C. Miller Library”, depts.washington.edu, Unknown, https://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/pal/on-the-difference-between-sweet-potatoes-and-yams/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [14] “Sweet Potato Vs. Yam Nutrition | livestrong”, livestrong.com, Unknown, https://www.livestrong.com/article/257046-sweet-potato-vs-yam-nutrition/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [15] “Sweet Potato: Is it Really a Superfood?”, thehealthsciencesacademy.org, Unknown, https://thehealthsciencesacademy.org/sweet-potato-is-it-really-a-superfood/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [16] “Yams vs Sweet Potatoes: What Are The Differences & Similarities”, bakeitwithlove.com, Unknown, https://bakeitwithlove.com/yams-vs-sweet-potatoes/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [17] “The Health Benefits of Potatoes, Yams, and Sweet Potatoes: A Comprehensive Guide – Nutrisense Journal”, nutrisense.io, Unknown, https://www.nutrisense.io/blog/health-benefits-of-potatoes-sweet-potatoes-yams, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [18] “The Difference Between Yams and Sweet Potatoes”, tiphero.com, Unknown, https://tiphero.com/yams-and-sweet-potatoes-different, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [19] “Why You’ve Probably Never Eaten A Real Yam If You Live In The US”, au.news.yahoo.com, Unknown, https://au.news.yahoo.com/why-youve-probably-never-eaten-040059918.html, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [20] “Sweet Potato vs Yam”, eatbydate.com, Unknown, https://www.eatbydate.com/sweet-potato-vs-yam/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [21] “Sweet Potato Nutrition – Health Benefits of Sweet Potatoes”, goodhousekeeping.com, Unknown, https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/health/diet-nutrition/a48026/sweet-potato-nutrition/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [22] “Sweet Potatoes vs Yams: What’s the Difference?”, healthline.com, Unknown, https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/sweet-potatoes-vs-yams, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [23] “Japanese Sweet Potato vs Yam: Understanding the Difference | by zenDine | Medium”, zendine.medium.com, Unknown, https://zendine.medium.com/japanese-sweet-potato-vs-yam-understanding-the-difference-52911047c853, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [24] “Review on nutritional composition of orange-fleshed sweet potato and its role in management of vitamin A deficiency – PMC”, ncbi.nlm.nih.gov, Unknown, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6593376/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023 [25] “Are Sweet Potatoes Healthy? Everything You Need to Know [Video]”, overfiftyandfit.com, Unknown, https://overfiftyandfit.com/sweet-potatoes-healthy/, Web, Accessed 28. Dec 2023
(end of AI article)
Conclusion
Let’s just say I don’t think I’ll be replaced any time soon.
However, you could easily replace 99% of college essays with AI.
The new year brings clean slates, changing trends, fresh resolutions—and new houseplants. Remember that orchid a friend brought to your dinner party? Or the festive poinsettia you brought home? They’re still kicking around. After the holidays, when you’re putting away the decorations, you may be looking at those plants and asking yourself, “Now what?”
Resist the urge to toss them out after the holidays. With a bit of attention, they can last for years. Here’s how to care for a few of the more popular holiday plants.
In the Aztecs language, poinsettias were known as cuetlaxochitl (kwet-la-sho-she), meaning a flower that looks like embers. But for the record, the plant is not deadly—merely irritating unless you’re allergic to it.
Water, but not too much. Let the soil dry out a bit in between waterings. If your poinsettias came in a plastic pot with a decorative foil wrap, discard the wrap, it can trap water and cause root rot.
Provide plenty of bright indirect light. If you only have windows with direct sun, hang a sheer curtain to diffuse the light.
Keep them warm. They are tropical plants. Place them in rooms where the temperature stays above 50 degrees and away from drafty windows.
Move them outside once the temperatures in your area are above 50 degrees at night. Bring them back inside in September if you want them to re-bloom.
Give them darkness to encourage re-blooming. The shorter days prompt the plant to start the flowering process. Starting in late September, make sure the plant gets 14 hours of complete darkness a day for 8 to 10 weeks.
Christmas cacti can live 30 years. It’s also known as Thanksgiving cactus, Easter cactus, and orchid cactus.
Don’t overwater. Water only when the soil is dry. While it is a cactus, it’s one that’s native to the Brazilian rainforest. They need humidity. If misting them daily is too much trouble, place them on a humidity tray. (Fill the tray with pebbles and water; replenish water as needed.)
Provide bright indirect light, the same as their poinsettia friends.
Keep them warm. Like the other plants on this list, room temperature is perfect for them. Make sure to keep them away from cold drafts.
Fertilize monthly during their growing season only with a 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer.
To re-bloom, prune the tips off in June. Then in mid to late October, give the plant 14 hours of complete darkness for six to eight weeks.
Rosemary’s latin name is ‘ros’ meaning dew and ‘marinus’ meaning sea. It’s native to the Mediterranean area, specifically Spain and Portugal.
Water regularly and deeply. While drought-tolerant, it shouldn’t be allowed to dry out. It’s happiest growing in a well-draining potting medium.
Give it full sun. Unlike the others on this list, it loves the sun. Go for at least six hours or more if possible.
Fertilize lightly during the growing season. It doesn’t need much.
Prune it if you want to. You can certainly keep the tree shape, but you don’t have to. You should only prune during the growing season, but you’re fine if you need a few sprigs for a recipe during the winter.
Check for pests. Rosemary can get whitefly, among other pests. Neem oil, when used correctly, can get rid of them.
Yellow is a polarizing color for flowers. Some people think it is brassy and loud and unpleasant. Others find it sunny and cheerful. The sunny warmth of yellow can cheer up a dark garden, and looks great when combined with darker colors. Today we’re sharing some favorite yellow blooms – what are yours?
Any list of yellow flowers has to include daffodils… the sunny essence of spring. But there is a lot of diversity in daffodils beyond the classic big trumpets. This is Narcissusbulbicodium (Zone 6 – 9), sometimes called the hoop petticoat daffodil. It has a particularly elegant, miniature take on the classic daffodil.
Anemoneranunculoides (Zone 4 – 8) is a bright little woodlander, spreading slowly to make a clump of sunshine.
This little yellow flower is the lakeside daisy (Tetraneurisherbacea, Zone 4 – 8). It is a wildflower native to just a handful of spots on the shores of the Great Lakes. Though quite rare in the wild, it makes a great garden plant, with masses of yellow flowers in May.
Zinniagrandiflora (Zone 5 – 9) is a miniature, hardy, perennial species of zinnia native to western North America. Unlike the familiar annual species, this spreads out to make a long-blooming ground cover, with yellow flowers that keep coming all summer long. It is very drought tolerant, but doesn’t do well in heavy, wet soils.
Japanese kerria (Kerriajaponica ‘Pleniflora’, Zone 4 – 9) is a slightly sprawling shrub that blooms for a very long period with bright yellow flower. The great feature is that it is very tolerant of even quiet deep shade, still blooming in spots where most plants won’t.
Closer look at the Japanese kerria blooms. This is the double flowered form, there are also singles with just five petals to each bloom. Both are beautiful.
We usually think of azaleas (Rhododendron hybrids, hardiness varies by cultivar) as being evergreen shrubs with flowers in shades of pink. But there is a whole world of deciduous azalea species and hybrids, many of them native to North America, with flowers in shades of yellow and orange. Even better, many of them are fragrant as well!
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
There are lots of signs that summer has arrived—children get out of school, otherwise normal men get out of regular clothes and into lime green golf pants, and, in many gardens, the weeds get out of hand.
To me summer means hollyhocks. Flower fads come and go like UFO sitings, but hollyhocks, those tall, lanky members of the mallow family, remain popular.
In Old English “hock” is synonymous with “mallow”. The mallow plants that returned from the Middle East with the Crusaders were called “holy” or “holly” hocks.Whatever the name, the plants and their bright flowers were a hit in the color-starved Middle Ages.
In America, the common hollyhock (Alcea rosea) could easily claim membership in the D.A.R., having arrived with the colonists. As almost everyone knows, Thomas Jefferson grew them at Monticello. As a few people know, Celia Thaxter, late 19th century gardener and poet, grew them in her famed beds on Appledore Island, off the New Hampshire coast, where they were immortalized by American Impressionist painter Childe Hassam.
Seeds and plants have been available from catalog vendors since the advent of mail order. As I recall, a couple of years ago, both White Flower Farm, Wayside Gardens, and the venerable English firm Thompson & Morgan all featured hollyhock cultivars on catalog covers.
Hollyhocks were the first plants that I grew as a child, mostly because there was a small stand of them established in our backyard, and the seeds were easy to collect and sow. I did not know at the time that common hollyhocks are biennial, producing vegetative growth the first year after they are planted and flowers in the second year.
Fortunately, the plants in our backyard did what hollyhocks do best—self-seeding—and we had flowers every year. Our hollyhocks were the single variety, with white blossoms marked by dark red “eyes”. I watered them religiously, but otherwise, the hollyhocks grew unattended in a rather exposed spot just behind the sandbox. One year a rabbit made her nest between the roots of the biggest plant, undoubtedly amending the soil regularly with organic material.
My current garden is home to two different species, fig-leaf hollyhock (Alcea ficifolia) and the common variety. I hasten to add that I inherited my plants from the previous owner, who did not live here long enough to see them bloom. The common hollyhocks, leaning artistically against the unpainted back fence, are pink doubles. The blossoms remind me of the tissue flowers that we used to make on rainy days when I was a child.
The less common fig-leaf variety stands on the opposite side of my upper garden, in front of one of the lattice-work panels that camouflages the understructure supporting my back porch. It is just now producing medium size blossoms in a wonderful shade of pale yellow. Every time I look at my Alcea ficifolia I renew my belief in serendipity. I have wanted one for years, and somehow never got around to ordering it from the catalogs. Now I feel as if I have gotten the proverbial free lunch.
The problem with all the hollyhocks is that their stems and foliage are, to put it frankly, rather ugly. The leaves, whether they are rounded or incised, are large and coarse. The stems are tall and hairy. To add bad to worse, the plants are susceptible to hollyhock rust, which makes rusty brown splotches on the leaves. To my knowledge, no hybridizer has been able to come up with a more elegant looking plant.
Perhaps that is just as well. After all, hollyhocks in the country don’t have to worry about elegance. There is a patch of common hollyhock growing by an old garage near our summer cottage. These plants have been self-seeding for generations and are the main adornment to a ramshackle property that has been for sale for at least 25 years. The blossoms provide so much relief to the eye, that nobody even notices the ugly leaves.
In city gardens, you can plant things in front of hollyhocks, such as coreopsis or lady’s mantle or even big pots of red geraniums to cover up those less-than-perfect legs. After the plants have bloomed, wait until the seed pods dry out, then collect the seeds, or if you are lazy, let them self-sow. Afterwards, cut down the stalks. With hollyhocks as with life, you can emphasize the beauty and minimize the ugliness if you just make a little effort.
All gardeners are familiar with tall single hollyhocks, which can be used so effectively to screen an ugly view or soften the harsh lines of a bare wall. But few realize that the single variety has an even richer, more stately relative—the double hollyhock.
Unlike the single with its rather rank growth and coarse, somewhat unattractive foliage, makes it undesirable except in a large perennial border, the double variety develops into a compact, clean-cut plant with attractive bluish-green leaves. From the crown of the plant rise as many as a dozen 4- to 6-foot flower spikes, bearing all along their length very double, carnation-like flowers in a myriad of delicious colors ranging all the way from snowy white through buff, apricot, pink, rose, bright red and maroon, to an almost black hue.
Many of the blossoms measure as much as 4 inches across and are so fully double as to give an impression of considerable depth. The flowers open in succession from the bottom to the top of the stalk, but the individual blooms last so well that by the time the buds at the tip are bursting, the first flowers are still attractive.
The double hollyhock, in addition to giving accents of color to the perennial border for the first two to three weeks in July when the delphinium, columbine, and iris have gone by and before phlox comes into bloom, can also add a touch of color to the living room as a tall bouquet, or grace to the dining table in a crystal bowl arrangement with floating blossoms. The clever person who likes to experiment with making her corsages can fasten several of the blooms together into a charming decoration for her dress or hair. Many compliments will be hers for her original creations.
Double hollyhocks are as easily grown as singles. Although they are usually listed as perennials, they will succeed best if raised as biennials. Plants can be purchased from many nurseries for setting into the perennial border either in the fall or spring. Or they can be raised from seed with little difficulty. Seeds should be .sown in a well prepared bed in May and June. If the soil is kept moist, germination will be rapid, within five to ten days. The seedlings should be thinned out till they are 6 inches to a foot apart. This will give sufficient room for healthy plants with good root systems to develop.
If the seed is sown sparingly in the row, a little thinning will be necessary. Seed can be sown directly in the border in open spaces where the seedlings will not be shaded. To establish a row along a wall or fence, sow the seed in hills a foot apart. Sow five seeds to each hill and thin to the strongest plant.
In late August or early September, following a soaking rain, the plants in seed beds should be moved to their permanent; location. If each seedling is dug with a good ball of earth and reset carefully, little ill effect from the transplanting will be noticed.
Double hollyhocks grow best in deep, rich, well-drained soil in a sunny location sheltered from strong wind. Because of their height, they should be set at the rear of the flower border. Allow at least two square feet of garden to a plant if possible. In areas where winters are severe, some protective mulch such as peatmoss, leaves, or evergreen boughs will help prevent serious injury from frost heaving.
Hollyhock pests are of little consequence except for rust, which can be devastating in a damp summer. The only methods of control, and these are not very satisfactory, are to pick off and burn any infected foliage as soon as it appears and to keep the remaining leaves, particularly the lower surfaces, dusted with sulfur. Occasionally the plants may be infested with aphids. Good spraying or dusting with a contact insecticide will get rid of them in short order. In certain regions, the Japanese beetle may be bothersome. Hand picking is the most effective remedy.
If the gardener keeps in mind these few simple cultural practices, you will be amply rewarded by growing vigorous double hollyhocks which will receive the attention and admiration of all those who visit your garden.
Double Hollyhocks for Your Perennial Border by J. LOWE
Referring to its medicinal use, from the Greek althaea, to cure (Malvaceae). genus of easily grown plants comprising annuals, biennials and perennials.
Biennial species cultivated
A. ficifolia (fig-leaved or Antwerp hollyhock), to 6 feet, single or double flowers in spikes of mostly yellow, June. A. rosea, hollyhock, erect-growing, to 9 feet or sometimes a good deal more. Tall • spikes of single or double flowers, sometimes 3 inches or more across, in shades of red, pink, yellow and white, July. This is strictly a perennial but is often treated as a biennial.
Perennial species cultivated
A. cannabina, 5-6 feet, rose flowers, June; var. narbonensis, red flowers. A. officinalis (marsh mallow), 4 feet, blush-coloured flowers, July, native to British marshes.
`Carmine Rose’, double cherry-red flowers; and other separate colours.
‘Allegheny Mammoth’, mixed colours, single and semi-double.
‘Begonia Flowered’, fringed petals with central rosette, mixed.
Annual hollyhock: ‘Triumph Supreme’, to 4 feet, compact growing.
Cultivation
Hollyhocks will succeed in most soils, but prefer the heavier kinds, especially if they are enriched. They need plenty of water in dry periods and should be firmly staked with stout stakes 7 feet or more long, driven well into the ground, to prevent wind damage, particularly in exposed gardens. Stems should be cut down to within about 6 inches of the ground after flowering is over.
A constant, old-fashioned garden favorite! Hollyhocks have been universally admired for hundreds of years. They are stately, majestic, towering plants that add beauty wherever they are grown. What other plant has such a stately habit or so many transparent, lovely colors In single plants or masses against walls or buildings, in groups at the back or rear of the perennial border, interspersed with low shrubbery or in bold masses along drives or walks, they are alike effective Many delicate plants will give their fullest effects the first year, so they are planted to advantage in the newly made garden when the trees and shrubs are low. The general effect is too bare of color and foliage.
There are singles and doubles. The doubles are popular, but singles are always admired because of their simple beauty and individuality. A group of well-grown Hollyhocks in bloom is worth going to see. It is the color that we look for because the leaves are large and coarse and grow mainly in clumps at the base of the plant. The long spikes of flowers grow from 5 feet to 8 feet high and there are usually from five to nine blossoms in bloom on each well grown stalk.
The average size is about 2 or 3 inches across, but 5-inch blooms can be had if given attention. The colors range from white to almost black and include shades of pink, flesh, rose-pink, salmon-rose, golden yellow, canary-yellow, dark red, purple-crimson, dark maroon, white and combinations of practically all these colors with either white centers or white margins. The blooming period is from late June through September. Fringed petaled sorts are cataloged as Allegheny Hollyhocks and are exquisite. There are also annual sorts which may be depended upon to bloom the same year they are sown.
How to use hollyhocks
At present, Hollyhocks have a great landscape value to hide in unsightly places, working in the border, or among trees and shrubs. They are also used for cut flowers but wilt very rapidly.
Where to plant
They require deeply dug, well-drained soil of equal portions of good loam and leaf mold. Well-decayed manure is also good to mix in the soil. They should be planted warmly and given plenty of water during dry weather.
How to grow
As the seeds ripen in August, they should be sown in light soil, and the seedlings grown in cold frames during the Winter. The ground should be well prepared and the plants put in just as early as the ground can be worked. Hollyhocks self-sow very rapidly.
Diseases
Hollyhocks were grown for a number of years in the same place, are troubled with rust. It causes little trouble, however, among vigorous young plants. A mixture of lime and sulfur blown under the leaves will prevent any serious outbreak. Bordeaux mixture is also effective. Badly infested plants should be dug and burned. Keep down the growth of the Mallow-like weeds. Much of the trouble with the rust is eliminated if the seed is sown as advised in August instead of Spring.
Learn how to make nutrient-rich organic worm castings tea for bigger harvests, healthier trees & pest-free gardens. Zach from Arizona Worm Farm shares his recipe.
Worm castings tea, also known as vermicompost tea, worm compost tea, or worm casting tea, is a nutrient-rich, organic fertilizer brewed by soaking worm castings (and other ingredients), in aerated water. It’s a natural way to feed your plants and boost soil health, teeming with beneficial microbes and minerals.
Zach from Arizona Worm Farm has spent the last five years perfecting his recipe, and now he’s sharing it with us so we can learn how to make worm castings tea at home.
How & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach’s Recipe for a Pest Free Garden
It’s a lot of trouble – so let’s start with why. Quite simply: Your vegetable yield will increase. Your trees will be healthier. Your flowers will be bug-free.
What are the benefits of worm castings tea?
There’s a lot of soil science – pure academic research and decades of field testing that backs up this basic concept: if you suspend microbes in clean water and add air, the microbes will multiply dramatically. When you then transfer that microbe-laden brew into your soils and onto your plants, the microbes thrive and do what they do almost immediately.
Here’s what all those microbes do:
Help produce thicker leaves so your plants protect themselves against frost, sunburn, and pests.
Rapidly convert organic matter from the soil into food for your plants.
Tell your plants there are pests present before those pests arrive, so your plant protects itself from the inside out.
Extend the reach of your plant’s roots so your plants grow better with less water.
Eat harmful microbes.
Improve soil structure through the formation of soil aggregates.
Increase soil porosity, resulting in better aeration and water retention.
Stop the degradation of soil pollutants and provide pH buffering.
Convinced about the benefits of worm castings tea? Let’s talk about how to make it.
Worm castings tea recipe development
Over the last five years, I have run more than 125 experiments where a standard recipe was compared to variations of ingredients or procedures.
We then looked for and counted microbes under a microscope.
Worm castings experiment findings:
The 27-hour brewing time increased protozoa activity.
Humic acid stimulated fungi activity.
Kelp stimulated protozoa activity.
Fish fertilizer stimulated fungi activity and increased nutrient content.
Worm castings resulted in increased fungi content.
I am going to share our recipe and approach – although I will reiterate, that this is a bit of a bother, and you need the correct inputs to get this right.
We sell it fresh every Saturday morning here at the Worm Farm. An easier option is to just come by a gallon or two.
Use fresh and varied inputs for the best tea
Start with as varied and healthy a collection of microbes as possible. Use your castings, fresh from your worm bin, and your compost, fresh from your piles. Use other sources of microbes like hydrated mulch that is breaking down or mushroom compost.
Worm castings from in-bed vermicomposting bins
If you don’t have your own, buy them from a local farm where you can get fresh. The big box compost and worm castings sealed in plastic do not have much microbial life. If you come here to my farm and want inputs for your tea, tell us so we can sell you unscreened material.
Decomposed hydrated wood chip mulch
We don’t screen any of the inputs before we use them to make our tea here. The compost and castings will have larger chunks of wood than our typical commercial product. This mostly serves to reduce microbe exposure to heat and dryness and to avoid breaking fungal hyphae strands.
The other ingredients are humic extract, kelp meal, fish hydrolysate, and Arizona Worm Farm’s BSFL Nutrient +. How many of these you use is up to you. The extra additives will improve the tea but are not essential.
A “tea bag” (You can add the material to the water and aerate it, but the bag makes it easier to spray and use in our gardens.)
A pump that can produce a “rolling boil” – bubbles that make the water look like it is boiling hard – with no heat. We recommend this home brewing kit from Compost Tea Lab. It contains a pump, a bubble snake, and a tea bag.
5 Gallons (19 liters) of pure well water, collected rainwater, or city water allowed to sit out overnight. *see note
12 oz (340g) worm castings
4 oz (113g) of unscreened handmade compost
4 oz (113g) decomposed wood chip mulch (hydrated)
2 Tablespoons (30g) humic acid
2 Tablespoons (30g) kelp meal
2 Tablespoons (30g) fish hydrolysate
2 Tablespoons (30g) AZWF BSFL Nutrient+
Directions
Place the bubble snake in the bucket.
Add 5 gallons of water to the bucket. (see temperature note below)
Fill the compost tea bag with castings, compost, and mulch.
Tie the tea bag to the snake.
Add liquid and powdered ingredients to the bucket.
Turn on the pump.
Replace ingredients in the tea bag with fresh castings, compost, and mulch after 1 hour and again after 2 hours. After the 3rd hour of aeration, take the tea bag out of the bucket. (Add spent ingredients to garden beds or containers.)
Continue aerating the tea for 21-24 hours, but not longer.
Use tea within 2-3 hours. The microbes begin dying when you take the tea off the bubbler. After 4 hours, the numbers return to where you started.
* A note about water: Most city water has chlorine to kill parasites, bacteria, and viruses. It kills the bad stuff but also kills the good stuff. If you only have access to city water, add water to the bucket and let it sit overnight. The chlorine will dissipate. If you are in a hurry, boiling for 15 minutes will have the same effect. Allow to cool before use.
Temperature: Keep water temperature between 60-70°F (15.5-21°C)–above 85°F-90°F (29-32°C) is too hot.
Recipe courtesy of Zach Brooks, owner of Arizona Worm Farm
Printable copy of the worm castings recipe:
How to apply worm castings tea
There are many ways to apply tea – and they are all easy.
As a soil drench: Pour it on the soil around your plants. Add 2 gallons of water to each gallon of tea for a soil drench. Or use it at full strength and then water the soil well.
Foliar feed: Add it to a hose-end sprayer and spray it as a foliar feed.
Just before summer to get plants ready for the heat.
Use it as often as weekly; it only does good. However, more than four times a year is probably not worth the time and money.
2. When setting up new garden beds or adding fresh soil
Apply tea when you set up a new bed (to get the soil ready). For best results, apply it a week or two before you plant, and then keep the soil watered like you had plants in it.
3. When planting new trees
Using worm castings tea when you plant new trees has been shown to dramatically reduce transplant shock and help new trees establish roots.
4. To add microbes when fertilizing your fruit trees
Propagating money trees is easier than you might think, and it’s a cost-effective way to expand your collection.
In this post I’ll explain just how to do it, with step-by-step instructions for everything from taking the cuttings to potting up your new baby plants.
You’ll also find a list of all the supplies you’ll need and tips for troubleshooting any problems so you can propagate your money tree successfully and have lots more plants to fill your home.
Rooted money tree cuttings in my hand
Money Tree Propagation Methods
There are 3 ways you can propagate money trees (or Pachira aquatica) – you can divide them, grow them from seeds, or take cuttings.
Rooting the stems is the easiest option and gives you the best chance of success, so that’s the method I’ll describe in detail. First, though, let’s take a closer look at all three techniques.
By Division
If your money tree has more than one trunk and they aren’t braided, then you can propagate it by division. Simply slide the plant out of its pot and carefully tease the roots apart, then repot each division into its own container.
This is the least common method to use, however, because the stems are usually braided together.
From Seeds
Another way to propagate money trees is by growing the seeds. You can collect these from the pods that form after flowering, once they have dried and are beginning to crack open.
With enough warmth, light, and water, they will germinate fairly quickly. However, this is by far the slowest option, and you will have to wait some time to get a sizable plant.
From Cuttings
Propagating money tree plants from cuttings is the most popular and simplest method, and the one that I recommend.
All you need to do is take a section from a healthy branch and then put it in either soil or water. Roots will begin to develop in about 4 to 6 weeks, and within a few months the babies should be ready to pot up.
You could also try using a single leaf, but since this method takes a long time and does not always work, I don’t recommend it.
The best time to propagate your money tree cuttings is in the spring or summer.
At this time of year, the plant is actively growing and the temperatures are warmer, increasing the chance of the cuttings rooting quickly and successfully.
How To Take Money Tree Cuttings
Using a clean, sterilized pair of precision pruners or micro snips, take a 4-6 inch long clipping from the green part of a healthy branch that has a few leaves on top.
Make your cut at a 45 degree angle from anywhere along the branch or stem. Don’t worry, the stem you left on the plant will start to grow new leaves in a few weeks.
Step 2: Take and prepare cuttings – Using precision pruners or micro-snips, take a 4-6-inch long clipping from a healthy branch anywhere along the green part of the stem at about a 45° angle. Be sure the cutting has a few leaves on top.
Taking money tree cuttings to propagate
Step 3: Apply rooting hormone – Dust the exposed part of your money tree stems with rooting hormone to help stimulate propagation and speed things up.
Dusting money tree stems with rooting hormone
Step 4: Plant the cutting – Plant the stems 3 to 4 inches deep in your medium and gently press the soil around them until they are standing on their own. Tent a plastic bag over the pot or place the lid on your propagation chamber (if you’re using one).
Planting money tree cuttings in soil
Step 5: Place somewhere warm and bright – Put the container in a warm, bright part of your home where it gets lots of indirect light. Then be sure to keep the soil evenly moist but not wet.
You can place the container on a heat mat to speed up the process. Your cuttings may drop a leaf or two before they take root, but as long as you see new ones growing on top it’s normal.
Rooting money trees in propagation box
Step 6: Check for roots – Roots should start to form after around 4 to 6 weeks. You’ll know they are ready when you see new leaves forming on top and the cutting doesn’t move when you lightly tug on it. Once the roots are 3 to 4 inches long, your new babies are ready to be potted up.
Step 7: Pot up the cuttings – Place a layer of potting soil into a 4” pot with drainage holes. Carefully remove the baby money trees from their container or propagation chamber, disturbing the soil and root mass as little as possible.
Place them into the container, adding extra soil if necessary to bring them to within 1” of the rim. Press the soil gently, water the plants lightly, then return them to a warm, bright location.
New baby money tree plant potted up
Tips For Rooting Cuttings In Water
If you’d like to root your money tree cuttings in water, simply place them in a vase of tepid water, ensuring that the stems – not the leaves – are submerged.
I like to use a clear vase for this as it’s easy to see when the roots start developing and it’s fun to watch them grow.
Place the vase in a bright, warm spot and make sure the water remains topped off and clean. The cuttings will likely drop their leaves, but this is normal. Pot up them up once the roots are around 3 to 4 inches long.
Money tree roots growing in water
How Long Does It Take To Propagate Money Tree Cuttings?
Money tree cuttings take a little longer to propagate than those from other plants, so be patient.
If you use the soil method, it takes 4 to 6 weeks for the roots to develop, but it can be up to 2 months before they are long enough to pot up.
In my experience, it takes even longer when you use water. You may need to wait for up to 8 weeks to see roots and 4 months before the babies are ready for potting up.
Why Won’t My Cuttings Root?
There are a few different things that can stop your cuttings from rooting successfully. Since their growth naturally slows down during the colder months, it usually takes much longer during the fall and winter.
Warmth and bright light are important factors, so consider using a heat mat if your house is cool and a grow light if there is little indirect sun.
Finally, make sure they are getting enough water. Check that the soil remains evenly moist, or that your vase of water never dries up.
How To Care For Your Cuttings
You’ll need to provide your money tree cuttings with the right mix of warmth, light, and moisture for them to survive during propagation.
If you’re rooting them in soil, mist them daily or keep them covered to maintain a steady moisture level.
Place them in a warm, bright spot in your home with plenty of indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight as it can burn the leaves or cook the cuttings as the temperature beneath the plastic rises.
How To Pot Up The Rooted Cuttings
YourPachira aquatica cuttings are ready for potting up when the roots are 3 to 4 inches long.
Fill a clean container with pre-moistened general purpose soil and plant the babies at the same depth they were in the water or growing medium, ensuring the roots are completely covered.
Press the soil around the stems gently, water lightly, then place them in a warm location with lots of bright, indirect light. Take your time when choosing where to keep them, as money trees don’t like to be moved too often and may drop their leaves as a result.
Yes, technically you can propagate a money tree from a leaf, but I don’t recommend it. It’s difficult to root a single leaf, and can take a very long time to get a sizeable plant out of the deal.
Where do you cut money trees for propagation?
To propagate money trees, cut anywhere along the green part of a healthy stem at around a 45° angle.
Can you root Pachira aquatica in water?
Yes, you can root Pachira aquatica in water, but it takes longer than using soil. If you want to try it, put the stems in a clear vase so you can easily see when the roots start developing.
Is it better to propagate money trees in water or soil?
It is better to propagate money trees in soil rather than water. Soil gives them stronger roots and a much better chance of survival once they are potted up. Plus it’s faster than using water.
More About Plant Propagation
Share your tips for propagating your money tree in the comments section below.
When I say that spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) are relatively disease-free, I’m not kidding.
There are very few diseases that will ever bother them. You’re far more likely to encounter spider mites or some other pest than to ever see a disease affecting your spider plant.
You might run across a few physiological issues, though. Overwatering is particularly dangerous, and is the most common cause of problems in these houseplants.
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In this guide, we’ll talk about the diseases and disorders that can trouble spider plants. Here’s the lineup:
This list is short, but we’re going to cover a lot of important info, so let’s jump right in.
1. Leaf Spot
In theory, spider plants can suffer infections from pathogens such as Alternaria, Cercospora, Fusarium, and Phyllosticta spp., which cause leaf spots. But there have only been a few cases documented.
That doesn’t mean that it can’t happen, since researchers aren’t usually concerned with documenting the experience of home growers, but if it does happen, you have used up all your bad luck for the year, and you should buy yourself a lottery ticket.
If the leaves have brown, black, or yellow spots, not speckles, which could be the feces of a visiting pest, it’s possible the specimen is suffering from leaf spot disease.
To deal with it, grab yourself a good, broad-spectrum fungicide.
Copper fungicide is always a safe option, and so is Mycostop, which harnesses the bacterium Streptomyces strain K61, a beneficial pathogen present in sphagnum peat moss.
I use it to treat most fungal problems that pop up in my garden or houseplants.
Grab a five or 25-gram packet at Arbico Organics if you’d like to add this product to your gardening toolkit. Be sure to follow the manufacturers direction for application.
2. Root Rot
If you’re going to be unlucky enough to run into a disease with your spider plant, root rot is the most common.
It’s caused primarily by overwatering, which deprives the roots of oxygen and essentially drowns them.
Or, it can be caused by the oomycete Pythium splendens, or the fungi Rhizoctonia solani or Sclerotium rolfsii, all of which thrive in wet, soggy environments.
The specific cause isn’t important, so don’t worry about trying to figure out which is the source of your woes. The important thing is to act quickly to resolve the situation.
Take your spider plant out of its pot and remove all the soil from around the roots. Trim away any dead or mushy roots.
Then wipe the container clean, and sterilize it with a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water.
Repot the specimen with fresh, clean potting soil, and keep your watering habits in check going forwards!
3. Tip Burn
If just the very tips of the leaves are brown and dry rather than the whole leaf, it’s most often a problem caused by either extremely low humidity or too much sun.
This species prefers bright, indirect light and humidity between 50 and 65 percent.
However, if the tips are brown and the browning continues to expand up the length of the leaf, that is more likely to be a result of too little light or overwatering.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
I have a spider plant in a wide, shallow pot, and it’s a challenge not to overwater any specimen in a pot like that. There’s nowhere for the excess water to escape, so there is little room to make mistakes.
I tell you this as an illustration that overwatering isn’t just caused by watering too often or too much all at once, necessarily.
The type of container, time of year, light exposure, and relative humidity can impact how often a houseplant needs watering and how much water it requires.
You should always check the soil before adding moisture, especially if you are growing in a small or shallow pot.
4. Wilting
Wilting can be a sign of root rot, so check out that section above if the leaves are looking floppy and sad.
But root rot isn’t the only cause of drooping foliage. Both over- and underwatering, as well as too much sun exposure, can result in wilting.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
We often assume that if a specimen is wilting, it needs more water. I know I’ve been guilty of making that assumption. But if you touch the soil and it feels moist, it’s more likely that it has been overwatered.
If that’s the case, you might be able to get away with withholding water for a while, but if it doesn’t start to perk up after a day or two, it’s time to act.
If the soil is wet, unpot the C. comosum and inspect the roots as discussed above.
Wilting can also indicate a pest problem like fungus gnats or spider mites, though with the latter you’ll usually see webbing or the physical presence of pests if that’s the case.
Sometimes, a specimen will start to look just a little bit sickly without any specific symptoms.
Maybe the leaves will turn yellow, or instead of vibrant green they’ll become pale. Other times, the leaves become solid green even though they’re supposed to be variegated.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
If the leaves turn pale or lose variegation, it could be issues with sun exposure or the amount of water you’re giving, or your C. comosum could be underfed, and adding a dose of fertilizer may be all that’s needed.
Yellow leaves can indicate too much sun or overfertilization, a pest problem, overwatering, iron deficiency, or if the leaves are primarily toward the outside of the specimen, could just be older leaves that are getting ready to shed.
Some people will say that such-and-such species is unkillable, and it feels awful when yours starts suffering.
I’ve been guilty of telling people that myself. But just because spider plants are known for being tough-as-nails, don’t feel bad if yours isn’t thriving.
It truly happens to all of us. I almost killed a spider plant because I was keeping it in an area that was way too dark, and I watered it too often. Now, hopefully, you feel like you have the skills to make yours happy again.
What issue are you facing? Do you still have any questions about how to fix the problem? Let us know in the comments section below
As a low desert gardener, it’s exciting to learn how to grow a crop that I already use, is good for you, and grows well in warm climates. Ginger definitely qualifies on all three accounts. Learning how to grow ginger is easy, and growing it is even simpler (especially if you live in a warm climate).
Ginger is a heat-loving, tropical perennial herb grown for its bamboo-like leaves and flavorful rhizomes. It is grown as a long-season annual in all but the warmest locations.
Ginger is grown from rhizomes. Rhizomes are fleshy stems that spread horizontally underground and contain several buds or growing points. The ginger rhizomes are planted below ground and send up bamboo-like shoots that give energy to the developing ginger below ground.
Ginger shoots emerge from the ground when the weather is nice and warm in the spring. Throughout the long days and warm months of summer, ginger grows well. As the days get shorter and cooler, the leaves turn yellow as the ginger begins to go dormant.
You can buy ginger online from seed companies, but you can also purchase organic ginger from your local market. I get mine at Sprouts. When purchasing ginger rhizomes for planting, look for light-colored, thin-skinned organic ginger that is plump and firm with several bumpy nodules.
To prepare ginger for planting, cut rhizomes into 2″-3″ pieces (each piece containing at least 2 to 3 nodules). Allow cut ends to dry and heal over before planting.
3. Give ginger plenty of time to grow
Ginger needs a long, warm growing season of about 10 months to grow well.
Zones 8 and warmer generally have enough time to start and grow ginger outdoors. Plant outdoors after your last frost date and when the soil warms in the spring. In the low desert of Arizona, plant ginger in March.
Plant rhizomes with nodules pointing up 2″ deep and 6″–8″ apart.
Plant 4 ginger per square foot in square foot gardeningGinger sprouting in the garden
In cooler climates, you will need to pre-sprout rhizomes indoors before planting. Count back 10 months from your first fall frost date. This is the time to begin pre-sprouting your ginger.
To pre-sprout ginger, plant rhizomes 2″ deep in small pots on heat mats. Keep warm and slightly moist (but not soggy; it will rot). Once ginger sprouts, provide supplemental lightinguntil it is warm enough to plant outside. Gradually let plants become accustomed to outdoor conditions for a week and then carefully transplant sprouts to larger containers or garden beds outdoors.
4. Give ginger plenty of warmth
Ginger does not grow well in temperatures below 55°F. Temperatures below freezing cause damage to the leaves and also kills the rhizomes.
In cooler climates, choose your warmest location to plant ginger. Look for an area that gets reflected heat from a block wall. Consider planting ginger in a container. Containers often heat up more quickly in the spring. Move the container to a sheltered location when temperatures fall.
To grow ginger in containers:
Use a container for growing ginger that is at least 12 inches deep.
Container-grown ginger may need more frequent watering and fertilizer.
Harvest container-grown ginger by dumping it onto a tarp or into a wheelbarrow.
In hot summer locations, provide shade for growing ginger. Although it prefers warm soil, intense sun often damages the growing leaves. Look for an area to plant ginger that receives shade naturally, or provide shade for growing ginger.
5. Give ginger good soil and fertilize as needed
The best soil for ginger is rich in organic matter and well-draining. Rich, loose soil may provide enough nutrients for growing ginger. Mulching the soil with additional compost or straw helps provide nutrients, control weeds, and retain water.
While ginger is growing, you can add a few inches of compost to growing ginger sprouts, similar to “hilling” potatoes. This can encourage more growth in the rhizomes.
If your ginger is not growing well, consider feeding every few weeks with an organic fertilizer such as liquid seaweed or fish emulsion. Testing your soil will help you know exactly what the soil is lacking.
Ginger developing below ground
6. Water ginger correctly
Ginger grows best with regular water, especially when the plant is actively growing. Well-draining soil is important as the rhizomes do not like soggy conditions. Do not overwater. As temperatures cool, reduce watering.
7. Harvest ginger at the right time
In cool climates, harvest ginger all at once before freezing temperatures. In warmer climates, harvest ginger after the leaves begin to yellow and die back. Wait to harvest as long as possible for the largest rhizomes.
To harvest, gently dig up the entire plant.In warm areas, you can grow ginger as a perennial. Leave the ginger in the ground and harvest as needed. Plants will go dormant during the cooler months and shorter days of winter, but new shoots will emerge in the spring.
8. Preserve harvested ginger in a variety of ways
After harvesting ginger, rinse it well and cut off shoots and large roots. Use the leaves in tea.
Store fresh ginger in the refrigerator or freezer in plastic resealable bags. Unpeeled ginger keeps for about a month in the refrigerator or up to a year frozen.
Dehydrate ginger by peeling (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) and slicing. Dehydrate at 95°F for 8-12 hours or until ginger is crisp and breaks when bent. I use this dehydrator from Amazon.
Sliced ginger before dehydratingSliced ginger after dehydrating
Store dehydrated slices in a glass jar with an airtight lid. Process small amounts of the sliced ginger into powder. Once ground, the powder will begin to lose flavor, so grind only a small amount at a time.
Process dehydrated ginger in blender to turn into powderStore dehydrated ginger in sealed glass jars
Process peeled ginger (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) with a small amount of water in the blender.This is the blender I use.
Process young unpeeled ginger in a blenderPulse until smooth
Freeze in herb or ice cube trays. Use individual portions as needed. When processed this way, ginger lasts up to a year in the freezer.
Freeze in ice cube or herb traysStore frozen cubes in freezer bags for up to 1 year
Twenty years ago, Rachel and I tied the knot and entered into Holy Matrimony.
It’s been a wild and wonderful two decades. We’ve lived in multiple different states and a foreign country, and we had 12 children together, one of which was taken home at only a few weeks gestational age. We’ve seen successes and failures, dealt with some crazy challenges, been painfully poor at points and quite comfortable at others… and we’ve always been in love.
I can’t imagine being with anyone else. Here’s to another twenty years (at least!).
Thank you, Heavenly Father, for the gift of a good wife.
Thank you, Rachel, for being my best friend and companion.
Last month, Pantone picked Peach Fuzz as its 2024 Color of the Year. The shade is warm, fuzzy, and like a gentle hug or a cozy sweater. And I’m a fan of any hue that’s close to pink or orange. In case you’re looking to embrace this color in your landscape, here are my five favorite peachy-keen plants to consider adding to the garden this year.
1. Geum ‘ Apricot Pearl’
Above: At left, the Geum ‘Apricot Pearl’, available at DutchGrown for $9.80 for 1 bare root. At right, the Peony ‘Coral Charm’ (photograph via TulipStore).
Fantastically ruffled blossoms in shades of pale peach poise themselves above semi-evergreen/evergreen foliage. Growing to just under two feet tall, this perennial will bloom late spring to summer in a sunny to partially sunny spot. They’re perfect for containers, as sweet edging for garden beds, or in a cutting garden. Potentially deer-resistant and most certainly pollinator-attracting. (For more on geums, see Gardening 101: Geums). A larger (growing to three feet) alternative is the oldie but goody peony ‘Coral Charm’ that won the 1986 Gold Medal of the American Peony Society and sports frilly peachy bowl-shaped blooms.
2. Grevillea ‘Peaches and Cream’
Above: Photograph of Grevillea ‘Peaches and Cream’ via Bloomables.
As if grevilleas weren’t already some of my favorite shrubs because they’re evergreen, drought-resistant, pollinator-friendly, and deer-resistant, then came along this sweetie. ‘Peaches and Cream’ has a low-maintenance mounding habit that is desirable and displays curiously curved flowers that age to shades of peachy hues. Worshiped by hummingbirds, this dense shrub grows to four to six feet high and just as wide and likes a sunny spot in well-draining soil. Hardy in USDA Zones 9-11.
If I’m going to plant a rose, it better be tough, disease-resistant, and long-blooming. ‘Peach Drift’ checks all those boxes, and now it’s on trend as well with its soft peachy-pink spring flowers that keep blooming through the end of summer. Perfect for small gardens, along walkways, and gently tumbling down slopes. Maturing to one to two feet high and two to three feet wide, this deciduous ground cover rose will accept full sun or part sun and regular drinks of water. Hardy in USDA Zones 4-11. An alternative to this rose with a more upright habit is the always-popular hybrid tea rose ‘Just Joey’, named “World’s Favorite Rose” in 1994.
This new and improved abelia from Sunset comes at the right time for the gardener wanting to riff a bit on the Pantone color trend. This low-water hybrid plays like a jazz song and offers vibrant multicolors with extra warm apricot tones. I use abelias all the time in my garden designs because they’re easy to maintain, deer-resistant, and colorful; plus this new hybrid stays effortlessly compact. Tiny white blossoms are an added bonus for hungry hummingbirds. This abelia grows to two to three feet tall and three to five feet wide, and will like full sun or partly sunny spot in hot climates. It’s a great candidate for containers, low border/hedge, or evergreen structure in a low-water garden. Hardy in USDA Zones 6-10.
I am a huge dahlia devotee and am especially fond of this waterlily-like hybrid that has long stems that gift apricot peachy flowers perfect for cutting and adding to floral arrangements. Plant this tuber in the spring in a sunny spot, and you’ll be rewarded from June to the first frost with delicate peachy blossoms. Perfect for borders or added to containers, it grows quickly to three to four feet high. Hardy in USDA Zones 8-11. Another peach perfect dahlia is the Giant Ball Dahlia ‘Sweet Suzanne’.
Red is an attention-grabbing color in the garden. Bold, loud, and bright. And it plays well with other colors as well – pair it with orange and yellow for a hot, exciting bed, or blues and purple to created a deep, rich, moody tone. Here are some of my favorite red blooms for the garden… what reds are you loving in your garden?
Gladiolus come in a huge range of colors, and they really do red well. This is the variety ‘Atom’, which is quite cold hardy (Zone 6 – 9) and has bright red flowers edged with white.
This peony ‘Buckeye Belle’ (Zone 4 – 8) has some of the darkest, richest red flowers out there. The color is so intense and dark, and looks all the better for the contrast of the bright gold stamens in the center of the blooms. Like basically all peonies, it is an easy-to-grow plant, asking little more than full sun and a little staking to help the blooms stand tall.
Spigeliamarilandica (Zone 5 – 9) is a wonderful plant native to eastern North America. In midsummer, the bright red flower buds open to reveal a contrasting star of yellow. Humming birds love it, and so do gardeners.
Speaking of hummingbirds, this is the only red-flowered species of petunia (Petuniaexserta, annual) which is pollinated by hummingbirds. Native to Brazil, is thrives as an annual in most gardener. Unlike modern hybrid petunias, this species has a loose, open habit, sending long stems rambling around the garden, with cherry red flowers coming non-stop.
Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ (Zone 5 – 9) brings spikes of bright scarlet flowers at midsummer. They’re wonderful in the garden or as cut flowers.
Spider lily (Lycorisradiata, Zone 6 – 10) hails from Japan, and grows from a bulb, sending up these masses of elegant bright red flowers in late summer or early fall.
Hollyhocks (Alcearosea, Zone 2 – 10) come in a wide range of colors, but I love the deep, dark, wine-red tones. Hollyhocks tend to perform as biennials or short lived perennials, but often self-sow so that they persist year after year. They’re such great old-fashioned flowers, but you don’t seem them in gardens much these days.
Another old-fashioned biennial flower… sweet William (Dianthusbarbatus, Zone 3 – 9). They come in a wide range of colors, but the deep reds are my favorite. Pair that with a great scent and you have a winning flower.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
