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  • How to Grow and Care for Dogwoods | Gardener’s Path

    How to Grow and Care for Dogwoods | Gardener’s Path

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    Cornus spp.

    Looking for beautiful, fascinating plants that amaze, astound, and astonish? Sounds like you’re in need of a dogwood or two.

    It’s rare for plants to have attractive leaves, bark, flowers, fruits, and forms. For most plants, usually at least one of those qualities is considered aesthetically meh, if not bleh.

    Not dogwoods, though – those have a rating of five stars pretty much across the board.

    A vertical shot of a beautiful blooming dogwood tree, with green and white text superimposed over the top and bottom of the image.A vertical shot of a beautiful blooming dogwood tree, with green and white text superimposed over the top and bottom of the image.

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    And even though they’re metaphorically and literally overshadowed by larger trees, understory species like dogwoods have their merits. For a gardener looking to pepper their landscape with pretty ornamentals that don’t dwarf their home, Cornus species have a lot to offer.

    So strap yourself in, dear reader. We’ll be discussing how to cultivate these lovely plants and how to best use them in your landscape. We’ll also cover a handful of our favorite species.

    Here’s what we’ll be getting into:

    What Are Dogwoods?

    Containing 57 currently recognized species of trees, shrubs, subshrubs, and even perennial ground covers, the Cornus genus is part of the Cornaceae family along with its sister genus Alangium.

    Collectively hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 10, species of Cornus are distributed across the Northern Hemisphere in Asia, Europe, and North America.

    In the United States, you can pretty much find a species of dogwood in any region of the country, save for the hottest and driest of climates.

    A horizontal image of a flowering red dogwood growing in a sunny outdoor landscape.A horizontal image of a flowering red dogwood growing in a sunny outdoor landscape.

    Taxonomists have identified four clades within the genus: blue- or white-fruited types, big-bract types, dwarf types, and cornelian cherries, though these descriptions are seldom used by gardeners or horticulturalists.

    The name Cornus comes from the Latin word cornu, meaning “hard” – a reference to the super dense and fine-grained wood of dogwood species.

    Speaking of common Cornus characteristics, let’s go over what dogwoods generally look like.

    Most species have simple, ovate, deciduous, and oppositely arranged leaves with parallel, arching leaf veins. A rich green or variegated during the growing season, these leaves tend to turn a deep burgundy red in fall.

    A horizontal shot of the red-colored autumn leaves of a Cornus sanguinea specimen.A horizontal shot of the red-colored autumn leaves of a Cornus sanguinea specimen.

    Anytime from late winter to early summer, Cornus species bloom with flowers that have structures in fours: four lobes, four petals, and four stamens.

    The flowers themselves aren’t all that showy, but they are encased in the middle of four to six petal-like leaf bracts that may be red, green, gold, yellow, pink, and/or white, depending on the species or cultivar.

    When they’re in full bloom, dogwoods attract many pollinating insects, from bees to butterflies to moths. After pollination, the flowers give way to red, bluish-black, or white drupes, which attract hungry birds and mammals.

    A horizontal image of the fruits and leaves of a Cornus sanguinea shrub growing outdoors.A horizontal image of the fruits and leaves of a Cornus sanguinea shrub growing outdoors.

    Along with spreading via seed dispersal, dogwood species can expand via underground rhizomes or even by rooting the tips of lower branches.

    Dogwoods come in many different sizes, depending on the species.

    Some, like the ground cover C. canadensis, top out at just four inches tall and spread pretty much indefinitely.

    Others, like the red-stemmed C. sericea or its yellow-stemmed cultivars, are your moderately-sized, stereotypical shrubs. Other tree-like species can reach heights of 45 feet and spreads of 40 feet in cultivation!

    Cultivation and History

    Dogwoods have a rich history of cultivation, and the origin of the distinctly unique and interesting name can’t be said with a slam-dunk surety.

    The name “dogwood” is thought to come from a colonial description of flowering dogwood fruits being edible, yet the taste not being fit for a dog. The hard, tough wood was also used for constructing skewers – i.e. “dogs” – so that could be the explanation, too. Take your pick!

    A horizontal closeup of a dogwood's beautiful white blossoms growing outdoors in the sun.A horizontal closeup of a dogwood's beautiful white blossoms growing outdoors in the sun.

    The wood has been used across many cultures for constructing weapons, tool handles, loom shuttles, golf club heads, jeweler’s boxes, butcher blocks, and many other items that need to be able to withstand strong hits and high forces without taking damage.

    Not all Cornus fruits are recommended for human consumption, but among those that are, some are quite tasty!

    The cornelian cherry (C. mas) in particular has found some fame as the tastiest of the dogwood fruits, and is used in delicious sweet treats to this day.

    A horizontal image of a traditional Georgian pumpkin and dogwood dessert served in a glass on a wooden plate alongside other foods, all on a wooden table indoors.A horizontal image of a traditional Georgian pumpkin and dogwood dessert served in a glass on a wooden plate alongside other foods, all on a wooden table indoors.

    It was also used back in Ancient Greece and Rome to dye fezzes, treat dysentery, and relieve gastrointestinal stress – and has even been mentioned in the literature of Homer and Ovid!

    Many other species have had a variety of applications throughout history.

    Extracts from the leaves of the Pagoda dogwood (C. alternifolia) have been used in traditional Chinese medicine as an analgesic, a diuretic, and a tonic.

    Native Americans used parts of the flowering dogwood to treat colic and fevers, and even to make red dye. During the American Civil War, the tree’s leaves came in handy for making tea and as a substitute for quinine in compound tinctures.

    And of course, dogwoods are beloved in the world of ornamental landscaping… that’s probably why you’re here, after all.

    Dogwood Propagation

    Many dogwood species can be grown from seed or propagated from cuttings.

    You can also purchase nursery starts and saplings to transplant into the garden. Let’s go over these techniques, in order of descending difficulty.

    But just as a reminder, there are a large number of different dogwoods out there, so the following tips are kept intentionally general.

    From Seed

    First things first: you’ll need seeds. Those can be bought from a reputable vendor, acquired from a friend, or even gathered yourself.

    To gather seeds, you’ll first need to harvest the fruits they grow in, when they’re ripe. To ensure ripeness, only gather the fruits once they’ve dropped to the ground.

    When you’ve gathered the fruits, you’ll need to mash them up to extract the seeds. You can do this by hand, with a mortar and pestle, or you can even use a blender.

    A horizontal closeup of Cornus mas seeds sitting on a white surface.A horizontal closeup of Cornus mas seeds sitting on a white surface.

    Remove the seeds from the mashed fruits, set them on a strainer, and rinse off the pulp with water. You can also put the seeds in water, which will separate the pulp naturally. This will also separate viable seeds from non-viable ones, as the good seeds will sink and the duds will float.

    You can either sow your Cornus seeds outdoors immediately in fall, or cold-stratify them before sowing in spring. To stratify, partially fill a plastic baggie with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite, stick the seeds in, moisten the media, and leave the baggie in the fridge until spring.

    Come spring, place the seeds half an inch deep in a seed tray filled with a similar peat/perlite mix, moisten the media, and set the container next to a sunny indoor window. Provide even moisture, but don’t allow the soil to become waterlogged.

    When the seeds germinate and grow into seedlings, thin them out and/or repot them as needed to give them enough room to develop, all the while keeping the soil moist.

    A horizontal closeup of water droplets on an outdoor dogwood twig.A horizontal closeup of water droplets on an outdoor dogwood twig.

    After they reach a suitable size – about three to four inches in height – they’ll be big enough to move outdoors.

    When the final frost date passes, you’ll need to harden off the seedlings before transplanting. To do this, take the containers outside for 30 to 60 minutes before bringing them back inside.

    Each subsequent day, add an additional half to full hour of outdoor time until they can spend a full day outdoors. From here, you can transplant!

    From Cuttings

    Anytime during the summer months, take four- to six-inch cuttings of softwood to semi-hardwood shoot tissue, depending on the species you are propagating.

    Take these cuttings from the distal – or terminal – ends of shoots, and make your cuts with a sharp and sterile blade.

    Defoliate the bottom half of each cutting, and dip the cut ends in a bit of IBA rooting hormone to help with root formation.

    If you don’t have any rooting hormone powder, you can find Bonide Bontone II available from Arbico Organics.

    A vertical image of a purple and white bottle of Bonide's IBA rooting powder.A vertical image of a purple and white bottle of Bonide's IBA rooting powder.

    Bonide Bontone II Rooting Hormone

    Prepare a three- to four-inch container filled with a 50:50 mix of peat and perlite for each cutting, then stick said cuttings in, two to three inches deep. Moisten the media and place the containers next to a sunny window indoors.

    Keep the media moist as the cuttings take root. When the cuttings have rooted and grown a couple of new leaves, they will be ready to harden off like you would with seedlings before transplanting.

    Via Transplanting

    Before you transplant, ensure that your planting site has the proper exposure for your chosen species. Additionally, make sure that you’re transplanting into rich, loamy, and well-draining soil with a pH of 5.0 to 8.0.

    Whether you’re transplanting a seedling, a rooted cutting, or a nursery start, ensure that your planting site provides enough room for the transplant to reach its mature height and spread without bumping into buildings, walkways, or other plants.

    The best transplanting times are spring, after the last frost, and fall, a couple of weeks before your average first frost date.

    Seedlings and rooted cuttings simply need a transplant hole that’s large enough to accomodate their root systems.

    For container plants from the nursery, you’ll need to make the hole a bit wider than the containers they come in, so you have room to work.

    Gently remove the plant from its container, and set it in the hole. Backfill with soil, and water in well.

    Bare root specimens should be soaked in water for several hours before transplanting. Once it’s time, dig a hole, make a mound of soil at the bottom, and spread the roots out over it.

    A horizontal image of potted dogwood starts in front of balled-and-burlapped arbovitae plants at an outdoor plant nursery.A horizontal image of potted dogwood starts in front of balled-and-burlapped arbovitae plants at an outdoor plant nursery.

    Alternate backfilling with watering until the hole is filled in, give it one final watering, and you’re done!

    Adding a bit of organic matter like compost to the soil you backfill with can provide your soil with some extra fertility to get your transplants off to a good start.

    For your baby transplants, really stay on top of watering until they become established in a year or two.

    How to Grow Dogwoods

    All the different dogwood species have a lot in common in terms of their growing needs. For catch-all Cornus cultivation, let’s go over what works.

    Climate and Exposure Needs

    If you’re anywhere in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 10, there’s a dogwood species for you – but not all Cornus species are suitable for all Zones.

    In general, dogwoods thrive in full sun to partial shade, depending on the species, and some can tolerate full shade.

    It’s all about finding that perfect balance between just enough sun to induce flowering, without scorching the leaves.

    Soil Needs

    Rich, well-draining loam with a pH of 5.0 to 8.0 should serve your specimens well as they grow and mature. You can conduct a soil test to check if the soil in your garden needs any specific amendments.

    A horizontal closeup of Cornus canadensis, in front of a blurred forest background.A horizontal closeup of Cornus canadensis, in front of a blurred forest background.

    You may have to make some species-specific adjustments, but since dogwoods can generally handle most soils as long as they aren’t bone-dry or soggy, don’t sweat this too much.

    Regular amendments of organic matter help keep soil rich, so work one to two inches of compost or well-rotted manure into your plants’ root zones every spring.

    Water and Fertilizer Needs

    Many Cornus species prefer a soil that’s kept moist, at least most of the time.

    So be sure to water whenever the top few inches dry out, in the absence of rain, and definitely whenever you can’t reach moist soil with a soil knife.

    Usually, supplemental fertilizer isn’t necessary if you keep on top of your humus amendments every spring. But if your soil is especially poor, you can apply a balanced 10-10-10 (NPK) fertilizer in spring.

    Growing Tips

    • Provide full sun to partial shade.
    • Make annual amendments of humus in spring.
    • If you keep with humus amendments, then supplemental fertilizer shouldn’t be necessary.

    Pruning and Maintenance

    Some species put out suckers at their base, which should be pruned ASAP to keep up appearances. You should also remove dead, diseased, or dying branches whenever you happen to notice them.

    A horizontal shot of a Cornus alba 'Sibirica' shrub with crimson red stems in an outdoor winter landscape.A horizontal shot of a Cornus alba 'Sibirica' shrub with crimson red stems in an outdoor winter landscape.

    As for dedicated sessions of pruning that shape your plant’s form and increase airflow, those should be done in spring, just before bud break.

    Depending on the type of dogwood, you may not shape the plant at all, but rather opt for the “au naturel” look.

    Fallen leaves should be raked up after they drop, unless you’ve got a woodland garden going. And always maintain a two- to four-inch layer of mulch over the root zone – that’ll suppress weed growth, conserve moisture, protect the roots, and just look real purty.

    In winter, you can cease your watering while the ground is frozen.

    Dogwood Species to Select

    With 57 Cornus species to consider, you’re spoilt for choice! Are you looking for a tree, a shrub, or maybe some ground cover?

    You really can’t go wrong with a Cornus, and if you want to read more about the different types of dogwood, check out our guide to 23 of the best varieties.

    Let’s go over some top-tier species: 

    Cornelian Cherry

    Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, C. mas originates from west Asia, along with the central and southern regions of Europe.

    Reaching heights of 15 to 25 feet and spreads of 12 to 18 feet, this tree bursts with yellow flowers in March, which later give way to red or yellow olive-shaped drupes.

    Along with being super appetizing to birds and small mammals, these cornels are what make the cornelian cherry famous, as they are quite delicious to humans.

    A square image of yellow flower clusters blooming on the branch of a cornelian cherry growing outdoors.A square image of yellow flower clusters blooming on the branch of a cornelian cherry growing outdoors.

    Cornelian Cherry

    For a cornelian cherry tree of your own, check out FastGrowingTrees.com.

    Learn more about how to grow cornelian cherries in our guide.

    Creeping

    The only ground cover on our list, C. canadensis doesn’t let its “vertically challenged” status detract from its aesthetics.

    A native of east Asia, Greenland, and northern North America, the creeping dogwood is hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 6 – the colder, the better.

    Reaching a height of three to nine inches, this plant has the potential to spread indefinitely via its creeping rhizomes, albeit very slowly.

    Blooming in late spring to early summer, the clusters of true flowers are green and discreet, but they’re surrounded by four white flower bracts, which are quite showy. Later, the flowers give way to small, scarlet-red berries, which will delight the birds.

    Flowering

    Native to southeastern Canada and eastern parts of Mexico and the United States, C. florida reaches heights of 15 to 35 feet and spreads of 15 to 40 feet.

    Hardy in Zones 5 to 9, this tree arguably boasts the best blooms of the bunch.

    Emerging in mid-spring, the true flowers have a backdrop of four lovely white leaf bracts, each with a maroon notch at the tip. After pollination, the flowers are eventually replaced with clusters of glossy red drupes.

    There are many flowering dogwood cultivars available with blooms in a variety of colors.

    A square image of a white-flowering dogwood growing outdoors in front of a brick building's window.A square image of a white-flowering dogwood growing outdoors in front of a brick building's window.

    Flowering Dogwood

    You can find flowering dogwood with white flowers in #1, #2, and #3 containers available from Nature Hills Nursery.

    For more information about how to grow flowering dogwoods, read our guide.

    Kousa

    A lot of dogwoods deal with pests and disease on the regular. Not C. kousa, though – this east Asian native is resistant to many common Cornus concerns.

    Hardy in Zones 5 to 8, the kousa dogwood reaches heights and spreads of 15 to 30 feet, and flaunts lovely white to pinkish flowers in late spring that, if pollinated, eventually yield fruits that look a lot like raspberries.

    A square image of a white kousa dogwood growing in a sunny field of turf under a partially cloudy sky.A square image of a white kousa dogwood growing in a sunny field of turf under a partially cloudy sky.

    Kousa

    You can find kousa dogwoods in a variety of sizes, from two- to seven-feet, available at FastGrowingTrees.com.

    And be sure to give our C. kousa guide a read to learn more about growing this species!

    Pacific

    Hardy in Zones 7 to 9, C. nuttallii is essentially the flowering dogwood of the western United States and southern British Columbia.

    Reaching heights of 15 to 40 feet and spreads of 10 to 25 feet, this tree has spring-blooming flowers with six white leaf bracts and fruits that look like a cross between those of C. florida and C. kousa.

    If you’re jonesing for a flowering dogwood yet live in the western US, then C. nuttallii is the one for you.

    Pagoda

    Native to eastern North America and hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 7, C. alternifolia is notable thanks to its – you guessed it – alternately arranged foliage.

    Growing 15 to 25 feet tall and 20 to 32 feet wide, pagoda dogwoods bloom in late spring with small, yellow, bractless flowers that eventually yield small blue-black clusters of drupes that grow on red stems.

    A square close-up image of the white flowers and lush green leaves of a C. alternifolia plant.A square close-up image of the white flowers and lush green leaves of a C. alternifolia plant.

    Pagoda

    You can find C. alternifolia available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Need some pagoda dogwood knowledge? Give our guide a gander.

    Red Twig

    What makes red twig dogwoods special? It’s right there in the name!

    A North American native that’s hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 7, C. sericea, aka red osier dogwood, has bright red stems – an awesome hue for a leafless, snowy landscape!

    In late spring, this shrub produces white, flat-topped flowers, which later give way to clusters of globose white berries.

    A square image of the leafless red twigs of C. sericea plants.A square image of the leafless red twigs of C. sericea plants.

    Red Twig Dogwood

    Growing six to nine feet tall and seven to 10 feet wide, this red twig dogwood is a compact beauty.

    You can find plants available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    There are other species also commonly known as red twig dogwoods and you can learn about all of them in our guide. (coming soon!)

    Tatarian

    Native to northern China, North Korea, and Siberia, C. alba is a team player – a mass or line of them looks better than one on its own.

    Hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 7, the tatarian dogwood is pretty moderately-sized, with a mature height and spread of eight to 10 feet.

    In late spring, these shrubs bloom with clusters of small, yellowish-white true flowers, which eventually yield beautiful clusters of spherical white drupes.

    Additionally, the stems of this plant turn blood red for the winter, a lovely change from the red-streaked green of the growing season stems.

    ‘Elegantissima’ is a charming variegated cultivar, sporting light green and cream foliage that turns red in fall, before dropping to reveal the bright red stems.

    A square image of some variegated Cornus alba 'Elegantissima' shrubs in a line outdoors, placed in front of a building window.A square image of some variegated Cornus alba 'Elegantissima' shrubs in a line outdoors, placed in front of a building window.

    ‘Elegantissima’

    You can find ‘Elegantissima’ available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Managing Pests and Disease

    Pests and diseases can cause all sorts of issues, from purely aesthetic problems to debilitating sickness, and as a whole, dogwoods are pretty susceptible to a lot of them.

    Consider this the Achilles heel that makes these otherwise perfect plants imperfect.

    A horizontal image of many small variegated green and white leaves on the branches of a Cornus alba 'Elegantissima' shrub in a sunny outdoor garden on a spring day.A horizontal image of many small variegated green and white leaves on the branches of a Cornus alba 'Elegantissima' shrub in a sunny outdoor garden on a spring day.

    In general, there are a bunch of tips and tricks for keeping problems at bay. Two of the smartest things you can do are cultivating your dogwood properly and sanitizing your tools between pruning different specimens.

    Thankfully, these trees are deer-resistant. But there are many other pests that can wreck a dogwood.

    You’ve got your all-too-common aphids, scale, and mealybugs, as well as the dogwood-specific borers, club gall midges, and sawflies.

    Mammal-wise, you may deal with hungry chipmunks, raccoons, and even black-bears – if they are common in your region!

    You’ll have plenty of potential problems on the disease front, too. Powdery mildew, Discula anthracnose, and root rots are but a few of the diseases you may have to deal with.

    You can learn more about dogwood diseases and how to treat them in our guide.

    Best Uses for Dogwoods

    Individually, species of dogwoods are more suitable for certain landscape situations than others. But when unified as the Cornus genus, there’s not much they can’t do.

    A horizontal image of beautiful flowering white and pink dogwood flowers in spring, in the public gardens of Bellefontaine Cemetery in north St. Louis, Missouri.A horizontal image of beautiful flowering white and pink dogwood flowers in spring, in the public gardens of Bellefontaine Cemetery in north St. Louis, Missouri.

    If you need a plant for establishing a border, placing along a home foundation, grouping in a cluster, adding to a native garden, attracting wildlife, growing under a canopy as an understory planting, or displaying as a specimen… don’t worry. There’s a dogwood for the job.

    Quick Reference Growing Guide

    Plant Type: Landscape trees, woody shrubs and subshrubs, perennial creeping ground covers Flower/Foliage Color: Green, gold, pink, red, white, yellow/green, variegated
    Native to: Asia, Europe, North America Maintenance: Moderate
    Hardiness (USDA Zone): 2-10, depending on species Tolerance: Deer, full shade
    Bloom Time/Season: Late winter to early summer Soil Type: Rich, loamy, moist
    Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil pH: 5.0-8.0
    Time to Maturity: 2-7 years or more Soil Drainage: Well-draining
    Spacing: Width of mature spread Attracts: Birds, insects, mammals
    Planting Depth: 1/2 inch (seed), depth of root system (transplants) Uses: Border plantings, foundation plantings, groupings, native gardens, specimens, wildlife attraction, woodland gardens
    Height: 4 inches to 45 feet, depending on species Order: Cornales
    Spread: Indefinite (ground cover) to 40 feet, depending on species Family: Cornaceae
    Water Needs: Moderate Genus: Cornus
    Common Pests and Diseases: Aphids, dogwood borer, club gall midge, mealybugs, sawfly, scale; dogwood anthracnose, fungal leaf spot, powdery mildew Species: Alba, alternifolia, canadensis, florida, kousa, mas, nuttallii, serica

    Doggone It, the Guide Is Already Over?!?

    ’Fraid so, amigo. That’s the way the cookie crumbles. Other hokey sayings.

    A horizontal shot of a blooming C. florida tree growing in a sunny outdoor landscape.A horizontal shot of a blooming C. florida tree growing in a sunny outdoor landscape.

    But yes, hopefully you’ve gained a ton of dogwood know-how from this guide. From here, you’ll be able to adorn your landscape with a lovely Cornus or two. How’s that for awesome?

    Still have questions? Brimming with your own wisdom to share? The comments section awaits you all.

    And if you want to learn more about trees and shrubs for your landscape, read these guides next:

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    Joe Butler

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  • Fostering financial independence in children: a parent's guide – Growing Family

    Fostering financial independence in children: a parent's guide – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    In today’s fast-paced and ever-changing economic landscape, instilling a sense of financial independence in children has never been more crucial. As parents, guiding your children towards financial savviness is a vital part of preparing them for the challenges of adulthood.

    This article explores simple yet effective ways to cultivate financial independence in your children, ensuring they are equipped with the necessary skills to navigate the financial world confidently.

    small child putting coins in a piggy bank

    Embracing the concept of an ISA for kids

    One of the first steps in building financial independence in children is introducing them to the concept of savings. An Individual Savings Account (ISA) tailored for kids is an excellent tool for this. An ISA for kids not only offers a safe place to save money, but also introduces them to the idea of earning interest over time.

    This type of account can be a powerful educational tool. It allows children to see first-hand how their savings can grow, teaching them the value of patience and long-term planning.

    Encouraging earning through allowances and jobs

    Allowing children to earn their own money is another key step towards financial independence.

    Whether it’s through a weekly allowance or encouraging them to take on small jobs like pet sitting or lawn mowing, earning their own money teaches children the value of hard work and the satisfaction of earning. This also provides an opportunity to learn about budgeting, as they decide how to spend or save their earnings.

    Teaching budgeting basics

    Budgeting is an essential skill for financial independence. Start with simple concepts like dividing their money into categories: spending, saving, and giving. Encourage them to set goals for each category. For example, they might save towards a new toy, spend on outings with friends, and give a portion to a charity of their choice. This practice ingrains the importance of managing money wisely from a young age.

    adult giving allowance money to a childadult giving allowance money to a child

    Promoting smart spending habits

    Children learn a lot by observation. Demonstrating smart spending habits yourself can be a powerful lesson for them.

    Involve them in everyday financial decisions, like grocery shopping or comparing prices before a purchase. Discussing the difference between needs and wants, and making conscious choices, can lay a strong foundation for making sensible spending decisions in the future.

    Introducing the concept of investment

    While this might seem advanced for children, introducing the basic concept of investment can be quite enlightening.

    Explain how money can be used to make more money, such as investing in stocks or starting a small business. Use simple terms and examples they can relate to, such as investing in a lemonade stand and how it can grow.

    Fostering a saving culture

    Creating a culture of saving within the family can have a lasting impact. Encourage children to save a portion of any money they receive, be it their allowance, birthday money, or earnings from small jobs. You can also introduce fun savings challenges or match their savings to motivate them further.

    wallet with credit cardswallet with credit cards

    Discussing financial responsibility and credit

    As children grow older, discussions about credit cards, loans, and debt are crucial. Teach them about responsible credit usage, the importance of paying bills on time, and the consequences of mismanaging credit. Understanding these concepts early can prevent financial missteps in the future.

    Offering opportunities to learn and grow

    Lastly, provide opportunities for your children to learn more about money management. This could be through books, games, or educational programs designed for children. Encourage their curiosity and be open to their questions about money and finances.

    In conclusion, building financial independence in children is a gradual process that requires patience and consistency. By introducing them to the basics of saving, earning, and spending responsibly, you are setting the foundation for a financially secure and savvy future. 

    The key is to make these lessons engaging and age-appropriate, ensuring that your child is both informed and interested in the world of finance. Remember, the habits and lessons they learn now will shape their financial decisions in the future.

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    Catherine

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  • Pressed Gunnera Leaves: Tom Berington's House of Herbaria Art

    Pressed Gunnera Leaves: Tom Berington's House of Herbaria Art

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    Four days after the UK announced a ban on giant rhubarb—also known as gunnera—we received an email from Tom Berington. Tom is the founder of Different Like a Zoo, a company that represents a small number of designers who “do one thing really well.” (Paola Navone’s covetable Ghost sofa and Heerenhuis’s timeless table designs have both previously featured over on Remodelista.) He wanted us to know that he recently launched a new project called House of Herbaria, a limited series of pressed and framed gunnera leaves. The timing was so serendipitous, we wanted to find out more …

    Tom’s Rorshach-esque gunnera prints on display in his former studio space. Photograph by Antony Crolla.
    Above: Tom’s Rorshach-esque gunnera prints on display in his former studio space. Photograph by Antony Crolla.

    Tom grew up in a unique setting: a 15th-century Prior’s Hall that was once attached to a neighboring Benedictine monastery on the slopes of the Malvern Hills. At the bottom of his garden, in a boggy, sun-soaked patch by the lake, is a patch of Gunnera manicata that has been there “as long as I can remember.” Tom—who has a degree in Fine Art—had begun experimenting with pressed seaweed. “I wanted to do something that really made an impact,” he recalls, so he abandoned the seaweed idea and headed straight for the gunnera patch.

    The gunnera patch in Tom Berington’s historic family home in Worcestershire. Photograph by Tom Berington.
    Above: The gunnera patch in Tom Berington’s historic family home in Worcestershire. Photograph by Tom Berington.

    Gunnera dies naturally in the autumn, so Tom cuts his leaves in the summer before they rot. His craft begins at the selection process: “Sometimes the insects will have already got to them, creating massive holes. Sometimes you’ll find a leaf that has been discolored by disease, which created an interesting pattination that makes them stand out.”

    Depending on how they are framed, Tom will select a pair of smaller leaves or one giant leaf for the press, a purpose-built contraption that has taken many seasons to perfect. The drying process takes around six months. “The aim is to extract as much moisture as possible so the leaves don’t go moldy or break up over time,” he explains. “It’s almost like developing a photograph,” he continues. “You place the leaf in the press and, six months later, you’re left with a surprise.”

    The leaves are mounted on muslin. Next season, Tom will try mounting the leaves on naturally-dyed fabric. Photograph by Antony Crolla.
    Above: The leaves are mounted on muslin. Next season, Tom will try mounting the leaves on naturally-dyed fabric. Photograph by Antony Crolla.

    Not all presses turn out as planned but, for Tom, that is part of the appeal: “They each have their own special qualities,” he says. To add depth, the leaves are cut and arranged in layers before being mounted on muslin and framed by Tom, a process that takes places between his childhood home in Worcestershire and his studio in London, where the pressings are displayed alongside the furniture he sells.

    Each pair of prints (price on application) is made to order, with some examples available to view at Buspace Studio in London’s W10. Photograph by Antony Crolla.
    Above: Each pair of prints (price on application) is made to order, with some examples available to view at Buspace Studio in London’s W10. Photograph by Antony Crolla.

    This year, giant, individual leaves have been split in two and presented as a pair. “Because you don’t see leaves of this size very often, it can be difficult to tell what you’re looking at,” Tom explains. “They can look like ancient relief maps and the veins also have a sort of drawn quality to them. There’s real beauty in their imperfection,” he says. “They are really unusual but they just seem to work in any setting.”

    See also:

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  • Maintaining a Winter Food Supply | The Survival Gardener

    Maintaining a Winter Food Supply | The Survival Gardener

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    This week I posted a video sharing some thoughts on how to maintain a winter food supply:

    Basically, we keep a regular supply of food through the chillier months via:

    1. Keeping animals that produce meat, milk and some eggs
    2. Continuing to grow the vegetables that can take the frosts
    3. Storing up the bounty of summer and fall

    Our cows are a great blessing, as we get three gallons of milk per day right through the winter. When you have milk, you can also have cheese, yogurt, butter, kefir and other dairy products that are nutritious and filling.

    We can take five gallons of milk and skim off the cream to make butter, then make a good-sized cheese from the remaining milk.

    Then we can take the remaining whey and soak grains in it for our chickens, raising the protein and nutrition they get, and/or we can feed it to our piglets to fatten them up. We can also drink it ourselves!

    We don’t add lights to the chicken coop, so we only get a few eggs a day through winter – yet those few eggs do help keep us fed.

    In the fall, we butchered two pigs and the freezer is full of pork right now, which means we are quite set for meals. I’ve made one slab of bacon so far and plan on starting to cure two more today, as the first bacon was delicious and turned out quite well. We’ve also made incredibly good breakfast sausage with our ground pork and will be making more as we work our way through the 400+ lbs of meat in the freezer.

    When the plant foods are mostly gone due to the cold, animal foods are often still available.

    Growing Vegetables that Take the Cold

    We have multiple vegetables still hanging on in the garden right now, including rutabagas, green onions, mustards, pak choi and daikon radishes. These can take temperatures down into the low twenties.

    We’re supposed to hit the mid-teens next week, however, which means we’ll have to cover our vegetable beds with sheets for a few nights. They should survive, but if they don’t, we still have lots of stored vegetables from summer and fall.

    Storing Garden Produce Through Winter

    We haven’t don’t much canning over the last couple of years, but we do keep a lot of roots and pumpkins through winter. Our favored pumpkin varieties are long-keepers, like the Seminole pumpkin, and they sit around our house as decorations until we eat them all. This usually doesn’t happen until some time next summer. We still have hundreds of pounds of pumpkins right now!

    We also store sweet potatoes and true yams in cardboard boxes, often layered in dry hay, and pull them as we need them. Between these stored roots, the pork in the fridge, and a few fresh cold-hardy vegetables and herbs in the garden, we eat well right through the winter.

    We are fortunate to live in a climate with relatively mild winters, as we only need to prepare for about 4-5 months of occasional garden-killing frosts; yet this would normally be a hungry season, since even one night in the teens effectively ends all the bounty of summer. Over the years, we’ve gotten better at growing easy-to-store crops in summer and fall with some cold-hardy plants over the winter in beds outdoors – and we’ve gotten much better at managing animals on the homestead and providing our own meat and cooking fat (lard).

    It’s possible to stay fed in the winter, particularly if you imitate the ant, not the grasshopper.

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  • Nicki's Foliage Favorites – FineGardening

    Nicki's Foliage Favorites – FineGardening

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    Today’s photos are from Nicki Snoblin in Lake Bluff, Illinois. We’ve visited their garden before (Nicki’s New Garden Project and Fall in Nicki’s Garden ) and today Nicki is sharing some foliage plants that they love.

    These stunning leaves are from the tricolor beech (Fagus sylvatica ‘Tricolor’, Zone 4 – 8). This is a unusual variety of the European beach. The normal species just has green leaves, then there is the copper beech which has dark purple-brown foliage, and this plant is a variegated version of that. When the leaves come out in the spring they are dramatic dark centers with glowing pink edges. As the leaves mature, especially those in more shade, the peak shades into cream, giving a tricolored effect. These are leaves that will outshine most flowers.

    red Japanese maple growing next to green hosta

    A cut-leaf Japanese maple (Acer palmatum, Zone 5 – 9) juxtaposed with Hosta (Zone 4 – 9). Everything about these two leaves contrast with each other – the maple dark, and delicate while the hosta is light green and bold. Putting the two together makes each of them shine.

    long garden bed full of foliage plants along a wooden fence

    There are almost no flowers in this bed, but there is no need. Starting with the tricolor beach leaves on the right, there is so much color and texture and contrast from foliage that this planting stays beautiful and exciting.

    close up of yellow flower next to flowering hosta

    Ligularia (Ligularia dentata, Zone 3 – 8). The yellow daisy flowers look a little tousled and messy, but it is hard to beat that lush foliage. The dark color of the leaves helps the variegated hosta next to them look even brighter.

    close up of Tiger Eye sumac in fall

    Tiger Eye sumac (Rhus typhina ‘Balitiger’, Zone 4 – 8) in the fall giving brilliant orange color.

    close up of sedum with dark foliage

    Dark moody succulent foliage from Sedum ‘Dazzleberry’ (Zone 4 – 9)

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

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  • How to embrace winter charm in your home – Growing Family

    How to embrace winter charm in your home – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    Winter provides wonderful inspiration to style your interior with the trends of the season. From warm colours for your walls to accessories and window decorations that bring winter indoors, this season adds style to your home like no other.

    winter blanket and hot chocolate on a tray

    Warm colours and natural textures

    Winter comes with warm and inviting colours, such as rich burgundy red, the warmth of ochre yellow and earthy brown tones. The season showcases nature at its finest, with vibrant colours outside beautifully reflected indoors.

    These colours can bring a sense of cosiness and comfort, establishing a connection with the changing outdoor landscape. When combined with natural textures like wood and stone, these tones create a harmonious and tranquil atmosphere at home.

    Use a range of elements

    From the rug on your floor to the cushions on your sofa and that beautiful plant pot on the windowsill, bringing winter indoors can take many forms.

    When it comes to window decorations, the trends lean towards versatility. Vertical blinds such as California blinds are not as dull and stiff as you might think; opt for textiles to create a modern and warm look. A blind for bedrooms is super useful for large modern windows, allowing enough daylight in winter with the necessary privacy. Take a look at these plisse shades for inspiration.

    rustic living room with open firerustic living room with open fire

    Traditional versus modern

    The key to tasteful styling lies in combining traditional elements with modern aesthetics.

    Consider integrating classic furniture pieces with a contemporary twist like sideboards or modern takes on classic chairs. This creates a timeless yet fresh look that reflects both comfort and style.

    Style is in the details

    Home is where the heart is, and in colder months we tend to spend more time indoors. This winter, try to make your indoor space even more personal.

    Add unique accents to your home, such as fitting artworks or carefully selected accessories. These finishing touches should reflect your personality and add a sense of warmth and exclusivity to your living spaces.

    houseplants on a wooden shelfhouseplants on a wooden shelf

    Green indoors

    Bringing nature into the home is a trend that endures. Integrate plants and greenery into your interior for a refreshing and lively atmosphere that’s perfect for shorter days. Place plants in stylish pots or opt for low maintenance varieties for a carefree green touch.

    Aiming to embrace winter charm indoors is about creating a home that is not only aesthetically appealing, but also a true reflection of your personality. Dive into the world of warm tones, play with window decorations, and choose a suitable blend of tradition and modernity, and you’ll be well on the way to a cosy, stylish home.

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    Catherine

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  • The Essential Guide to Constructing Durable and Aesthetic Retaining Walls With Sleepers

    The Essential Guide to Constructing Durable and Aesthetic Retaining Walls With Sleepers

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    The artistry of crafting robust and visually appealing retaining walls with sleepers is a skill that seamlessly combines both functionality and aesthetics. As a compelling architectural element, these structures not only serve the practical function of holding back soil, preventing erosion, and providing an effective drainage system, but they also add a distinctive charm to your landscape. 

    egor-myznik-WzQ90RI9dTI-unsplash

    Image source

    This guide is designed to provide comprehensive insights, from selecting the right sleepers that will withstand the test of time to mastering the intricate process of designing and constructing your retaining wall. Compellingly woven into this guide are expert tips and a step-by-step construction guide, poised to transform you into a skilled craftsman, capable of creating a retaining wall that stands as a testament to your prowess. Your journey into the realm of sleeper retaining wall construction begins here, with each subsequent section offering deeper exploration into this fascinating world.

     Understanding Retaining Walls

    One must understand that a retaining wall, a seemingly simple yet ingeniously designed structure, serves the critical purpose of holding back soil from a building or structure, combating erosion, and creating more usable space within a landscape. This wall, a testament to human ingenuity and resilience, stands as a silent guardian, protecting our homes and edifices from the relentless forces of nature.

    These walls are much more than just a blend of materials and labor; they are the embodiment of strategic design and architectural elegance. Retaining walls are often constructed using sleepers – sturdy, rectangular pieces of timber that provide strength and stability. They are renowned for their durability and aesthetic appeal, making them a popular choice for homeowners and landscape architects alike.

    Their construction is a delicate dance of precision and accuracy, a process that requires a keen eye for detail. The right balance of depth, height, and angle is crucial to ensure the wall’s longevity. A well-constructed retaining wall is not just a functional asset but a beautiful addition to any landscape, a symbol of our desire to harmonize with nature while shaping it to our needs.

    Choosing the Right Sleepers

    Having grasped the essential role and construction of retaining walls using sleepers, it becomes paramount to meticulously select the appropriate sleepers, a choice that will significantly influence the durability, aesthetics, and overall success of your retaining wall project. The selection of sleepers is a task that requires detailed attention, as it forms the foundation of your retaining wall’s integrity.

    Sleepers come in a variety of materials, each with distinct strengths and aesthetic appeals. Hardwood sleepers, for instance, promise longevity and striking, natural visual appeal, while softwood sleepers are lighter and easier to handle, making them suitable for DIY projects. Concrete sleepers offer robustness and low maintenance, although they lack the organic appeal of wood. Each type has its place in the tapestry of retaining wall construction, and the choice often boils down to personal preference, project requirements, and budgetary constraints.

    Moreover, the size and profile of the sleepers also matter. Larger sleepers provide greater structural strength but may be cumbersome to install. On the other hand, smaller sleepers are easier to handle but may require additional reinforcement for stability. As we journey together in building your dream retaining wall, remember that the right choice of sleepers is a critical step to ensure its enduring beauty and functionality.

    Designing Your Retaining Wall

    After selecting the ideal sleepers, the next crucial step is to meticulously design your retaining wall, a process that demands creativity, precision, and a clear understanding of the landscape’s contours and features. The design phase is a harmonious blend of art and science, where you sculpt your vision into reality while adhering to the fundamental principles of engineering and design.

    Begin by visualizing your wall’s role within the broader landscape. Will it serve a purely functional purpose, or will it also add an aesthetic touch to your outdoor space? This decision will influence your design’s complexity and the choice of materials.

    Next, consider the shape and size of your wall. Curved walls may better complement the natural landscape, while straight walls can provide a modern, clean look. The height and length of the wall will depend on the slope and stability of the ground, as well as the purpose of the wall.

    Bear in mind, that a well-designed retaining wall must be strong yet elegant, blending seamlessly with its surroundings. It should enhance, not overpower, the beauty of your outdoor space. Through careful planning and thoughtful design, you can construct a retaining wall that is both sturdy and aesthetically pleasing.

    Tools and Materials Checklist

    Embarking on the construction of a retaining wall necessitates the assembly of a comprehensive list of requisite tools and materials, a tangible manifestation of the blueprint that you have meticulously crafted in the design phase. This list, a critical asset in your construction journey, should be prepared with both precision and foresight, taking into account the intricacies of your chosen design.

    Your checklist should include essential tools such as a shovel, spirit level, string line, and saw. These items are instrumental in ensuring the accurate placement and fitting of your sleepers. Moreover, the list should also detail the materials required – namely, the sleepers themselves, topsoil, gravel, and appropriate fixings. These materials, chosen with care, will form the heart of your retaining wall, providing it with both its strength and its aesthetic appeal.

    As you gather these elements, take a moment to appreciate the communal effort that goes into such a project. The tools and materials you assemble are not just objects; they are the embodiment of your vision, the realization of your design. Your meticulous preparation now paves the way for a retaining wall that blends durability with beauty, a testament to your hard work and dedication.

    Step-by-step Construction Guide

    With our tools and materials at the ready, let us now meticulously unfold the process of constructing your retaining wall, step by step, each action building upon the last in a symphony of creation. Picture the sonata of the shovel as it breaks ground, the harmony of the spirit level ensuring perfect alignment, and the rhythm of the sleeper’s installation. Just as each note has its place in a melody, so too does each step in our construction guide.

    First, we initiate our symphony by marking out our wall’s position, the outline shaping the landscape like a composer’s score. We then dig a trench, its depth mirroring the profound beginnings of any masterpiece. As we place our first sleeper, the cornerstone of our composition, we ensure it is level, for precision is key in this performance.

    Subsequent sleepers are stacked and fastened, their union akin to the joining of harmonies. Backfilling the trench and compacting the soil, we create a solid foundation, much like the bassline in a song.

     

    Conclusion

    In conclusion, the construction of a durable and aesthetic retaining wall with sleepers requires meticulous planning, precise selection of materials, and methodical execution. By understanding the function of a retaining wall, choosing high-quality sleepers, and carefully following a step-by-step construction guide with the necessary tools, one can successfully create a robust and visually appealing structure. This guide serves as a comprehensive resource for achieving this task efficiently, enhancing the aesthetic appeal and longevity of any landscape.

     

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    Ann Sanders

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  • Could Milk Sheep be Right for Your Homestead? | The Survival Gardener

    Could Milk Sheep be Right for Your Homestead? | The Survival Gardener

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    Could milk sheep be the right dairy animal for your farm?

    Yesterday I visited my friends at Castra Isidore Farm to turn five gallons of our raw cow milk into a big block of cheese. (We filmed it and I hope to post that video within a week.)

    While there, we got to have a great conversation about milk sheep:

    If you have a smaller homestead, dairy sheep might be for you.

    [ad_2] David The Good
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  • 13 of the Best Purple and Blue Potato Varieties | Gardener’s Path

    13 of the Best Purple and Blue Potato Varieties | Gardener’s Path

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    Mashed, smashed, roasted, or fried, I love potatoes.

    I’d eat them even if they were the most unattractive color imaginable, but potatoes in jewel-like hues such as purple and blue are downright irresistible. I whip them out anytime I want to wow my guests.

    I made a pile of smashed salt and vinegar potatoes using some ‘Huckleberry Gold’ recently, and my friends couldn’t stop raving about how beautiful they were. Apart from tasting insanely good, the dish was also a feast for the eyes.

    A close up vertical image of whole and sliced purple potatoes set on a table mat indoors. To the top and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.A close up vertical image of whole and sliced purple potatoes set on a table mat indoors. To the top and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    Blue and purple potatoes don’t just look good, these colorful tubers are also healthier than the standard spud.

    We’ll talk about why that is and introduce you to 13 of the prettiest, tastiest options available for you to grow at home. Here’s the lineup:

    Best Blue and Purple Potatoes

    Purple and blue potatoes contain flavonoid pigments called anthocyanins, which provide the unusual colors as well as a range of health benefits for our gut bacteria, cardiovascular system, and blood sugar management.

    A close up horizontal image of a roasting dish filled with oven baked purple potatoes with herbs and salt set on a marble surface with garlic scattered around.A close up horizontal image of a roasting dish filled with oven baked purple potatoes with herbs and salt set on a marble surface with garlic scattered around.

    Plants develop this hue as a way to absorb light and protect the plant from UV light, and they are the same pigments you find in blueberries and purple cabbage.

    Some colorful varieties only have the purple or blue coloration in their skins. Others have the coloring all the way through the flesh as well.

    A lot of these vibrant potatoes won’t show their true colors until you scrub the heck out of the skin to remove the dulling dirt.

    A close up horizontal image of whole and sliced purple potatoes on a wooden chopping board with a knife.A close up horizontal image of whole and sliced purple potatoes on a wooden chopping board with a knife.

    Japanese and Hawaiian sweet potato cultivars are often purple, so don’t confuse Solanum tuberosum with Ipomoea batatas when you’re shopping. They may look somewhat similar but they’re totally different species.

    If you’re new to growing potatoes, we have a guide that will walk you through the entire process.

    Before we dive in, be sure to familiarize yourself with the time to maturity of the potatoes you want to grow.

    In general, those described as early mature in 80 days or less, mid-season varieties take 80 to 95 days, and late types require over 95 days to reach maturity.

    Then, let’s start by looking at one of the most popular cultivars:

    1. Adirondack Blue

    If you come across a blue potato at the store, it’s highly likely you’re looking at ‘Adirondack Blue.’

    Bred at Cornell University by Ken Paddock, Robert Plaisted, and Walter de Jong in the Department of Plant Breeding, it was released in 2003 and has been a favorite ever since.

    The skin is deep blue with a hint of violet surrounding equally vibrant flesh. Even after cooking, the skin maintains that striking color. It’s an adaptable tuber, ideal for roasting, baking, mashing, and more.

    The skin on this oval, mid-season type might have “netting” if it’s exposed to cold temperatures or if it contracts potato leaf roll virus infection.

    Netting is a type of defect on the skin of the potato that looks kind of like a net has been wrapped around the tuber. It doesn’t hurt the tuber, but some people don’t like the look.

    A close up square image of a wicker basket filled with 'Adirondack Blue' set on a wooden surface.A close up square image of a wicker basket filled with 'Adirondack Blue' set on a wooden surface.

    ‘Adirondack Blue’

    High Mowing Organics Seeds carries this exceptional blue option in two-and-a-half, 20- and 40-pound quantities.

    2. All Blue

    With deep blue skin encasing equally blue flesh and a white ring between the skin and flesh, ‘All Blue’ is perfectly named, though you’ll also see it called ‘Blue Marker,’ ‘Fenton Blue,’ or ‘River John Blue.’

    When you’re an heirloom potato that has been around for over a century, you tend to pick up a lot of monikers.

    This cultivar is extremely drought-tolerant and is sensitive to wet roots, so be careful not to overwater. Otherwise, it’s fairly resistant to problems like scab and late blight.

    I think the vibrant hue and oval shape accented with deep eyes makes for a beautiful display in a basket on the shelf.

    They are just as attractive cooked and set on the plate, though the flesh will become paler after cooking. Use them for mashing, making fries, roasting, and more.

    A close up of whole and sliced 'All Blue' tubers set on a wooden table outdoors.A close up of whole and sliced 'All Blue' tubers set on a wooden table outdoors.

    ‘All Blue’

    You can bring home ten tubers from Burpee for a mid- to late season meal.

    3. Blackberry

    True to their name, ‘Blackberry’ potatoes are so dark that they almost look black, with the same deep, reddish-violet coloring of blackberries.

    The thin, dark violet skin is ideal if you prefer not to peel your spuds. The round tubers have deep eyes and the flesh is dark purple all the way through, with a creamy texture perfect for making chips.

    ‘Blackberry’ is a mid-season type, resistant to blight and wireworm, and produces uniform-sized tubers.

    It was developed by Michigan State University’s Potato Breeding and Genetics Program, led by Dave Douches, and Great Lakes Potato Chip Co. Each plant will give you an abundant harvest if you provide ample irrigation, since they are sensitive to drought.

    4. Blue Congo

    Wine-colored skin encases burgundy colored flesh speckled with white.

    The light, airy flesh is perfect for mashing, and you’ll have heaps of cloud-like purple puffs that will wow all your diners.

    A close up horizontal image of 'Blue Congo,' whole and sliced set on a wooden surface.A close up horizontal image of 'Blue Congo,' whole and sliced set on a wooden surface.

    If you like twice-baked potatoes, you’ll love this variety. The thick skin lends itself perfectly to roasting. And if you’re dreaming of violet potato chips, you won’t be disappointed.

    The flesh has a nutty, bold flavor and the late-season, long-storing tubers will be a treat for months to come.

    5. Blue Sapphire

    While sapphire jewels are pretty on a ring or necklace, ‘Blue Sapphire’ is simply delightful on a plate.

    The dark blue-purple skin hugs purple flesh with a white marginal ring and white marbling. The thick skin has a waxy texture, giving it a pretty sheen once you wash off the soil.

    The flesh has an earthy, rich flavor, in an oval tuber with deep eyes.

    It was bred by Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada’s Fredericton Research and Development Center in Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada, in 2008 and released to market in 2019.

    6. Canary Black

    Papas negras, as they’re known in their home of the Canary Islands, are highly sought-after by locals and visitors alike.

    A close up horizontal image of a pile of Canary black potatoes freshly harvested.A close up horizontal image of a pile of Canary black potatoes freshly harvested.

    Canarian potatoes are varieties of S. tuberosum and S. chaucha that were brought to the Islands in 1622 by Europeans. Over time, they have been grown in the rich volcanic soil of the Canary Islands and have taken on a thin skin and a round shape.

    Early papas negras have deep purple-black skin surrounding yellow-colored, sweet, buttery flesh. The semi-smooth skin is glossy when washed, but pale and matte when you first pull them out of the ground.

    Use them to make the island’s famous papas arrugadas. The “wrinkly potato” dish is comprised of potatoes boiled in salt water and then dried until the skin wrinkles.

    It’s usually served with a side of mojo rojo, which is a combination of tomatoes, garlic, and hot peppers. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

    7. Harvest Moon

    Slice open the dark reddish-violet skin of ‘Harvest Moon,’ and you’ll be greeted by creamy, pale yellow flesh.

    Combined with the round shape, it’s like capturing a full moon on your plate. The flesh turns brighter yellow on cooking and has a delicious nutty flavor.

    This cultivar was developed by Joel Vanderschaaf at Tuberosum Technologies Inc. in Saskatchewan, Canada in 2011. A cross between ‘Piccolo’ and ‘Ph.Sfd,’ it was released to the market in 2020.

    A mid-season type, it resists cracking and scab. The jury might be out on whether gardening by the moon phases can benefit plants, but there’s no doubt gardening with ‘Harvest Moon’ is smart.

    A close up of a pile of wine-colored 'Harvest Moon' tubers set on a wooden surface indoors.A close up of a pile of wine-colored 'Harvest Moon' tubers set on a wooden surface indoors.

    ‘Harvest Moon’

    Visit Burpee to pick up 10 tubers for your garden.

    8. Huckleberry Gold

    With deep golden flesh encased in huckleberry purple skin, this tuber is a feast for the eyes.

    A close up horizontal image of a pile of 'Huckleberry Gold' in a large plastic basket at a farmers market.A close up horizontal image of a pile of 'Huckleberry Gold' in a large plastic basket at a farmers market.

    ‘Huckleberry Gold’ was first bred in 2003 from Agria and ‘COA94019-5R’ in a field in Aberdeen, Idaho. It was further refined and then released to the market in 2011 by the Northwest (Tri-State) Potato Variety Development Program.

    Montana State University plant pathology professor Dave Sands’ lab identified this beauty in 2016 as the first variety to be released on the market as approved for diabetics to eat because it is low on the glycemic index. It’s also higher in antioxidants than your average tater.

    Go ahead and skip the butter because the flesh of this mid-season type is creamy and rich.

    It’s also resistant to potato virus X and the golden potato cyst nematode.

    A square image of a wicker basket filled with whole and sliced 'Huckleberry Gold' set on a wooden surface.A square image of a wicker basket filled with whole and sliced 'Huckleberry Gold' set on a wooden surface.

    ‘Huckleberry Gold’

    Whether you’re looking for a healthier option or just a pretty one, pick up two-and-a-half-, 20-, or 40-pounds at High Mowing Seeds.

    9. Magic Molly

    No, these potatoes aren’t actually black – but you’re excused if you thought they were. The skin is such a dark purple that it looks that way.

    Inside, the flesh is nearly as dark, with a strong purple hue that persists even after cooking. It has an earthy flavor with a waxy texture.

    Bred near Palmer, Alaska, by potato disease control specialist Bill Cambell at the state-run Plant Materials Center, the tubers have an oblong, fingerling shape. He bred it out of ‘Red Beauty,’ and named it for his daughter in 2007.

    The mid-season plants are extremely vigorous and will have you swimming in a magical sea of nearly black, fingerling tubers.

    A square image of a wicker basket filled with whole and sliced 'Magic Molly' set on a wooden surface.A square image of a wicker basket filled with whole and sliced 'Magic Molly' set on a wooden surface.

    ‘Magic Molly’

    Pick up one, two and a half, 20, or 40 pounds of ‘Magic Molly’ at High Mowing Seeds.

    10. Purple Majesty

    Purple all the way through, ‘Purple Majesty’ has soft, buttery flesh and vibrant, thin skin that holds its color even after cooking.

    A close up horizontal image of a hand from the left of the frame holding two sprouted 'Purple Majesty' tubers pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a hand from the left of the frame holding two sprouted 'Purple Majesty' tubers pictured on a soft focus background.

    To be totally accurate, the skin is purple with just a hint of wine red, while the interior is speckled with bluish-purple shades.

    The flesh is sweet and buttery, perfect for mashing.

    ‘Purple Majesty’ was bred by Colorado State University San Luis Valley Research Center and is an early maturing type.

    It’s moderately resistant to leafroll but susceptible to blackleg and pink rot.

    A close up of whole and halved 'Purple Majesty' potatoes set on a wooden surface.A close up of whole and halved 'Purple Majesty' potatoes set on a wooden surface.

    ‘Purple Majesty’

    Make 10 tubers yours by visiting Burpee.

    11. Purple Rain

    You’ll want to dance for joy in the purple rain when you see how striking these tubers are.

    These potatoes look like vibrant jewels. The firm skin is so dark that it’s nearly black, but once you open them up, you’re treated to a rich eggplant interior speckled with white flecks.

    The flesh is sweet and delicate and retains its color even after cooking.

    Imagine a bowl full of the oval tubers of this early- to mid-season type. Stunning. They will be just as stunning as you dig into the sweet, delicate flesh.

    12. Purple Viking

    With skin dotted with dark eggplant and vibrant pink, ‘Purple Viking’ looks almost too good to eat.

    A close up horizontal image of 'Purple Viking' potatoes.A close up horizontal image of 'Purple Viking' potatoes.

    Slice this mid-season type open, and you’ll be greeted by snow-white flesh with a buttery texture.

    This oval, medium-sized, all-purpose type stores particularly well, but it probably won’t last that long since it’s going to be in constant demand at the dinner table.

    If you live somewhere dry, ‘Purple Viking’ is tolerant of drought, within reason. The tubers tend to be uniform, with a similar shape and size.

    A square image of a wicker basket filled with 'Purple Viking' potatoes with one sliced in half to show the white flesh inside.A square image of a wicker basket filled with 'Purple Viking' potatoes with one sliced in half to show the white flesh inside.

    ‘Purple Viking’

    Pick up two-and-a-half pounds at High Mowing Seeds.

    13. Shetland Black

    Hailing from the Shetland Islands, ‘Shetland Black’ has been around for over 100 years.

    A close up horizontal image of 'Shetland Black' potatoes on a colorful surface.A close up horizontal image of 'Shetland Black' potatoes on a colorful surface.
    Photo by JuliaBalbilla, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.

    Looking as though they’ve been dipped in mulberry wine, the skin is mottled brown, mulberry, and true purple.

    Inside, the petite ovals have a creamy white flesh with a ring of purple between the flesh and skin.

    Although the tubers are tiny, each early-season plant produces an abundant harvest. The flavor is sweet and buttery.

    Black and Blue Can Be a Good Thing

    All potatoes are healthy, but purple and blue ones have a little bit of an edge, thanks to those groovy anthocyanins.

    Honestly, I’d eat them even if they were slightly less healthy than the average tuber as they’re just so beautiful.

    A close up horizontal image of a pile of sliced and whole purple potatoes set on a wooden surface.A close up horizontal image of a pile of sliced and whole purple potatoes set on a wooden surface.

    No longer a side dish, whether you mash, fry, roast, or turn them into chips, they’re going to be the centerpiece of your meal.

    How do you plan to use up your tasty taters, and which one on this list is calling your name? Fill us in on all the details in the comments section below.

    Now that you’re swimming in colorful tubers, you might have a hankering for more knowledge about potatoes. If so, we have a few more guides worth exploring:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • Single-Node Cassava Planting Success | The Survival Gardener

    Single-Node Cassava Planting Success | The Survival Gardener

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    John writes from from the Philippines to share his success with growing cassava from single node cuttings:

    It is amazing how cassava will still germinate despite how poorly they are planted. 

    I had previously planted 12″ long sticks and pounded them into the ground and they still survived.

    I now cut individual nodes and throw them in a grocery sack. This method is nearly 100% germination.

    Or I also put them in 6″ deep trays. When they start showing sprouts I plant them.

    I get faster TUBER development and a shorter harvest also.

    They are investing their growing efforts into tubers instead of leaves.

    Thank you for the pictures and the success stories, John!

    I wrote about speeding cassava harvests via single-node propagation in a post back in December. 

    If this method both increases the amount of plantable material while also shortening the time to harvest, it’s very much worth trying.

    We’ll see how it works in our 2024 gardens. I think we’ll cut single-node pieces from the cuttings we saved from the 2023 crop, then plant them in flats to germinate some time in March, followed by transplanting into beds in April.

    This could make cassava much more viable as a crop here in Zone 8b. We usually get over seven months of frost-free weather – if we can get harvests in six months or so, we’ll be able to rely on cassava as a regular staple crop rather than just as a novelty.

    At the very least, propagating cassava from single-node cuttings requires a lot less planting material. 

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  • The Bug Snug: An Easy DIY Insect Habitat by OmVed Gardens

    The Bug Snug: An Easy DIY Insect Habitat by OmVed Gardens

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    Every so often a DIY project comes across our Instagram feed that stops us in our tracks–as was the case when Omved Gardens shared a video tutorial on building a “bug snug” for hibernating insects. Here was a truly easy to do-it-yourself project that uses materials gardeners likely have on hand (sticks and twine) and solves a common problem (what to do with extra cuttings and slow-to-compost twigs), all while supporting wildlife. We bookmarked it straightaway, but what was even more intriguing was that within a few weeks, we saw other gardeners recreating the bug snug or reposting OmVed’s video on their own feed: This humble garden DIY had gone about as viral as a garden post could go. 

    Founded in 2017 on a formally tarmacked piece of land in north London’s Highgate Village, Omved Gardens is an educational garden and community space with a focus on biodiversity and permaculture. John Gaffney, the landscape gardener at Omved, says inspiration for the bug snug came from a visit to the Royal Horticultural Society’s Wisley Garden last fall. “When leaving the gardens I noticed these pyramidal structures dotted around the car park,” says Gaffney. “There were signs posted explaining the purpose of these interesting structures and how they were made.” The towers of sticks support insects and invertebrates by providing a safe place to hibernate, and the hollow stems of dead plants, in particular, make excellent little hideaways. 

    So when Gaffney was left with piles of sticks and hollow stems after preparing Omved’s wildflower beds for winter, he decided to make a smaller-scale version of the pyramids he’d seen at Wisley. “As gardeners, it’s very easy to want to get in the garden and clean up all the mess and the cuttings off the floor. But actually what wildlife wants is a bit of mess,” Gaffney says. And not only are the structures functional and attractive, he notes, they have made for great conversation starters about how to “prepare” for winter and the need to leave a bit of untidiness around for wildlife.

    Here’s how to create your own bug snug.

    Photography by Will Hearle, courtesy of OmVed Gardens, unless otherwise noted.

    Step 1: Build the frame.

    Gaffney demonstrates how to create the frame for the bug snug. Stills from video by Will Hearle for OmVed Gardens.
    Above: Gaffney demonstrates how to create the frame for the bug snug. Stills from video by Will Hearle for OmVed Gardens.

    Choose a position for your snug in a sunny spot if possible. Gather three sturdy wood poles of equal length; Gaffney used hazel, but says you can use any straight pieces of wood, including bamboo canes. You can make your snug any size (OmVed’s snugs stand about chest high). Gaffney tied the poles together informally; if you want to get fancy, you can use a clove hitch to create a proper tripod lashing. Once you’ve secured the poles, they should stand up by themselves, but you can knock them into the ground with a hammer or mallet to make the pyramid more secure.

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  • Summer and Fall in Maria's Garden – FineGardening

    Summer and Fall in Maria's Garden – FineGardening

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    I am Maria and I live in the southwest of the province of Quebec, Canada, Zone 5. I want to add that my husband is in charge of the grass and tree part of the gardens so by keeping it all neat and clipped weekly my gardens are always looking at their best.

    After being featured on the GPOD in June 2023 (Maria’s Quebec Garden), I was asked if I would host a garden tour for my garden club. They are always looking for opportunities to visit other gardens. It was my pleasure to do so but it also was a bit of work as we always want to show off our best in the gardens. The vegetable garden did not need much watering and was bountiful this fall. It is hard to choose only a few pictures of all the ones I take of my garden so hope you enjoy.

    One of my hanging pots made by me looking on to my new flowerbed….with practice they are becoming nicer.

    large vegetable garden in full sun

    Vegetable garden end of July looking really good. The tomatoes were not the best as they are sunloving plants and the rainy summer did not help.

    close up of pink begonia withe small raccoon sculpture

    A begonia (Begonia brevirimosa subsp. exotica, Zone 10 – 11 or as annual) giving to me as a birthday gift from a friend.

    close up of large red hibiscus flower

    Hibiscus moncheustos ‘Marvel’ (Zone 5 – 9) is dark red and always stunning. This year, though, it lost it’s leaves earlier than usual…not sure why!

    My white double Brugmansia (Zone 8 – 11) along the stone wall and amidst annual zinnias (Zinnia elegans, annual). I plant zinnias all over the place, they were my mother’s favorite flower. They are so easy to grow. These I started inside in April. They get much bigger than those planted in the ground in my experience.

    close up of white flowers in the garden

    A beautiful-large white phlox (Phlox paniculata, Zone 5 – 9). Behind it a large hosta (Hosta plantaginea, Zone 3 – 9) in flower, the flowers of this hosta have a nice delicate smell.

    small skunk sculptures amongst foliage plants

    A couple of my ceramic friends in the garden under a tiger eyes sumac (Rhus typhina ‘Bailtiger’, Zone 4 – 8).

    close up of oriental poppies

    Oriental poppies (Papaver orientale, Zone 3 – 8) started from seeds.

    close up of Anna Paulowna tree with hydrangea growing below

    Anna Paulowna tree (Paulownia tomentosa, Zone 6 – 9). It’s a tropical tree and does not flower in our climate. It dies down every winter and comes back in the spring and grows up to 10 feet or more in one season. It is in the corner of my veggie garden and I always get asked “wow…what is that”?

    close up of pink flowers in fall

    A digitalis (Digitalis purpurea, Zone 3 – 8) started from seed flowering in late October. We have had a mild autumn and I had quite a few of late bloomers all around the gardens. It was really a nice to walk around and get surprised by something you were not expecting to be flowering at this time of year!

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

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    Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed. 

    In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall. 


    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    How does vermicomposting work?

    Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!

    During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?

    • Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil
    • Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil. 
    • The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants
    • Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
    • Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
    • The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Worm castings from vermicomposting

    What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?

    A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin. 

    No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed. 

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin

    When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to my garden beds?

    Vermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm Composting

    If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.


    Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?

    Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.

    That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

    Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farm here in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.


    How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?

    Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
    • Bin (see options below).
    • Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
    • Kitchen scraps – Perfect worm food includes bananas, watermelon, pumpkin, strawberries, apples, and more. I keep them on the counter in this container until I add them to the bins.
    • Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. I get mine from Arizona Worm Farm. Look for a local supplier if possible. If you can’t find one you can get them online here. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.

    Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:

    The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds. They are available at Dollar Tree or Amazon.
    • Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
    • Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • 2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
    • I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
    • If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.

    Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.

    Place the bin in the holePlace the bin in the hole

    2. Place the bin in the hole.

    Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat. Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat.

    4. Add 300-600 red wiggler worms. Red wigglers are preferred. I get mine from Arizona Worm Farm. Look for a local supplier if possible. If you can’t find one you can get them online here.

    Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.

    5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.

    Cover the food scraps with a layer of Cover the food scraps with a layer of

    6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.

    Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well. Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place. When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms.

    10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.


    How to Become a
Self-Sufficient GardenerHow to Become a
Self-Sufficient Gardener

    How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?

    I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.

    You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.

    Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.

    Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.


    What do worms eat?

    Perfect worm food: Watermelon, bananas, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, strawberries, apples, beans, pears, carrots, cherries, grapes, peaches, spinach, cucumbers, cabbage, celery, mangoes, tomatoes, corn, cardboard, shredded paper and egg cartons.

    Feed worms in moderation: Bread, potatoes, pasta, rice and other starchy foods

    Avoid feeding worms: Citrus, meats, bones, eggs (crushed shells are ok), dairy products, processed foods, salty or greasy food, and pet waste.

    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Tips for feeding worms:

    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.

    • Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
    • Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process. 
    • Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies
    • Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating. 
    • The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
    • Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding. 
    In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.


    Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:


    Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?

    Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.  

    The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.  

    The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.


    Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?

    Answer: The worms go through the beds, and some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.


    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.

    Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?

    Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has.  Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.


    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:


    Question: How often do you add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?

    Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.


    Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?

    Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.


    Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?

    Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin. 


    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:


    Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?

    Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep. 


    Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins? 

    Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area more moist, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps


    Question: Will in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?

    Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move, they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.


    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:


    Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?

    Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.


    Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100. The bed has good drainage, and a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?

    Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.


    Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?  

    Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.


    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Spreading worm castings around a raised bed garden.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:


    Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?  

    Answer: Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.


    Question: Are red wigglers native?

    Answer: Red Wigglers are not native to the US – No worm is- they were all killed off during the Ice Age. But, Reds are not considered invasive. Especially in Arizona. They stay where they are at and can’t live in our natural native soils.


    Question: Is cardboard toxic?

    In our world, it is hard to avoid all chemicals. Cardboard is the most heavily used packaging material, and feeding it to our plants and trees is the best way to make use of a very valuable resource. The benefits of feeding it to our worms (and then our plants) dramatically outweigh any other option. If it’s painted with colored ink from overseas, it is very remotely possible that it has toxic heavy metals. Almost all the inks used in the US (something like 99.3%) are made from soybean oil and are completely harmless. It is also possible (but not likely) that the adhesives include formaldehyde. But, Formaldehyde also occurs naturally in the soil. It is produced during the decay of plant material in levels considered safe.


    Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?  

    Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread). 


    Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?  

    Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help. 


    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started. 


    If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it:


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    Angela Judd

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  • How to Grow Philodendron Micans | Gardener’s Path

    How to Grow Philodendron Micans | Gardener’s Path

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    Philodendron hederaceum var. hederaceum

    I’ve lived with my philodendron micans for many years, and to this day, every time I walk by it, I do a double-take or just gaze at it lovingly.

    The heart-shaped leaves are stunning on their own as anyone with a heartleaf philodendron knows, but the bronzey-pink hue really makes micans stand out.

    That’s enough to make it extra special, but the leaves also have a velvety texture with an iridescence that sparkles in the light. It’s impossible to ignore.

    A close up vertical image of a philodendron micans plant growing up a moss pole in a decorative pot indoors. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.A close up vertical image of a philodendron micans plant growing up a moss pole in a decorative pot indoors. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    I’m not the only one who has fallen in love with this vining plant. The Royal Horticultural Society gave philodendron micans its coveted Award of Garden Merit in 1993.

    If any plant deserves this honor, in my opinion, it’s this one. I adore it not only because it’s so good looking, but it’s also one of those houseplants that needs hardly any care.

    Before jumping in, you might want to check out our philodendron growing guide for an overview of the species in general.

    In this guide, we’ll focus on how to keep your micans as happy as can be.

    Here’s what I’ll cover:

    It helps to know a little bit about where a plant came from to better understand how to care for it, so let’s start with that:

    Cultivation and History

    Philodendron hederaceum (syn. P. scandens) includes several heart-shaped cultivars and varieties, but it’s specifically the botanical variety hederaceum that is sold under the name “micans.”

    A close up vertical image of a single philodendron micans leaf pictured on a soft focus background.A close up vertical image of a single philodendron micans leaf pictured on a soft focus background.

    Velvet leaf philodendron, as it is also known, was formerly classified as P. micans, but it’s no longer recognized as a separate species but a naturally-occurring variation of P. hederaceum.

    A member of the Araceae family, philodendron micans is part of the group of plants known as aroids.

    In their native Central and South America, these plants are secondary epiphytes or hemi-epiphytes that use other trees and shrubs as a support structure to reach light, water, and nutrients.

    When the new leaves first emerge from their sheaths, they’re pinkish-red in color. As the leaves age, they turn deep green or greenish-bronze, depending on the light exposure.

    Most philodendrons grown as houseplants retain their immature leaves, but if the foliage is able to fully mature, micans leaves can reach up to eight inches across with distinct veins and a true heart shape, known as cordate.

    A close up horizontal image of two leaves, the one on the left is a micans and the one on the right a heartleaf philodendron.A close up horizontal image of two leaves, the one on the left is a micans and the one on the right a heartleaf philodendron.
    Micans on the left, heartleaf philodendron on the right. Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Philodendron micans looks similar in shape to the species, with the big difference being the color of the foliage.

    Outdoors, philodendron micans can grow up to 20 feet long and 10 feet wide and will form spathes of white flowers. Indoors, while they can grow just as large if provided with the right light exposure, they rarely bloom.

    The plant contains calcium oxalate crystals, which can be irritating to the skin and mucous membranes, so I wouldn’t recommend making a heaping salad of the leaves, but philodendron micans isn’t considered particularly toxic.

    Philodendron Micans Propagation

    At one point, I had over a dozen philodendron micans specimens hanging out around my house.

    As I already mentioned, I adore them, but that’s not why I had so many. I used to have a cute little mini vase rack that I liked to keep full of cuttings as a display in my kitchen.

    The philodendron micans cuttings rooted so readily, and I just couldn’t bring myself to toss out the young plants, so I potted them up when they got too big for the display. I ended up giving them away as gifts lest I run out of space!

    All that is to say that you can propagate these plants easily. You can choose to buy a plant, divide an existing specimen, or take cuttings.

    From Division

    To divide a vining philodendron like micans, it must have at least four stems coming out of the soil.

    They develop multiple stems pretty rapidly, so a plant that is a few years old is likely to be ready for dividing.

    A close up horizontal image of a philodendron micans in a hanging pot.A close up horizontal image of a philodendron micans in a hanging pot.

    Remove the plant from its container and gently brush away the soil so you can see the roots. Loosen up the roots a bit so you can see where there is some natural separation.

    The size of the division doesn’t matter so long as you can obtain two stems and a chunk of root.

    Gently tease apart a few stems with roots attached. If the roots are too tangled, you can use a clean pair of scissors to separate them.

    Put one section back in the original container and pot up the other section or sections into their own containers. Fill around with fresh new soil and add enough water so that it starts to run out of the drainage hole.

    From Cuttings

    Ready for one of the easiest propagation jobs out there? Take a healthy piece of stem that is about six inches long and cut it off just below a leaf.

    The stem needs at least two leaves on it. It’s not the leaves that are important, but the nodes, as that’s where the roots will emerge.

    Pull off all but the top leaf or two so there is at least one bare leaf node and dip the cut end in rooting hormone.

    A close up of a bottle of Bonide Bontone II Rooting Powder isolated on a white background.A close up of a bottle of Bonide Bontone II Rooting Powder isolated on a white background.

    Bonide Bontone II Rooting Powder

    You can pick up a 1.25-ounce container at Arbico Organics, and it will last you through a lot of propagation projects.

    Fill a four-inch pot with water-retentive, rich potting medium. Moisten the potting medium and then make a small hole in it with your pinky finger, a chopstick, or a pencil.

    Stick the stem into the potting medium so that it’s an inch or so deep, and firm the soil up around it. Tent a piece of plastic over the cutting to help retain humidity.

    Philodendron micans cuttings will grow best when they are exposed to a bit more light than most houseplant species would typically require.

    Provide direct light in the morning and early afternoon, and bright, indirect light for the rest of the day. Alternatively you can use a grow light.

    After a few weeks, wiggle your fingers into the soil and under the cutting. Gently lift it up and look for roots.

    If you see roots, your cutting is ready to be transplanted into its permanent container. If you don’t see any roots, go ahead and firm it back in the soil and give it more time.

    You can also place the cuttings into water rather than soil.

    Plant Propagation Display

    You can use a regular glass but if you prefer to display the cuttings that you’re propagating, have a look at this set of five propagation jars, complete with wooden stand from Mkono, available via Amazon.

    Keep the cuttings in bright light and change the water every other day. When the roots are an inch or so long, you can transplant.

    Transplanting

    If you buy a specimen, you can leave it in the original container for a few months or repot it into a slightly larger container right away if you prefer.

    When you’re ready to repot, pick a container one size up from the existing pot. The container should have drainage so that excess water can run out.

    Gently remove the plant from its container.

    Loosen up the root ball a little and snip away any black or mushy roots.

    Fill in around with fresh potting soil, then firm the soil down gently and water. If the soil settles, add a bit more.

    How to Grow Philodendron Micans

    Philodendron micans requires a good amount of light to develop the bronzy color and velvety iridescent effect on the foliage.

    A close up horizontal image of a single philodendron micans leaf pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a single philodendron micans leaf pictured on a soft focus background.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    An area with direct morning light but protected from direct afternoon light is ideal, or a spot with bright, indirect light with a southern exposure would work, as well.

    You should provide the plant with brighter light to encourage the bronze coloring. If you prefer the green hue, aim for less light.

    If the plant starts to grow long and leggy, it’s a sure indication that it isn’t receiving enough light.

    A close up of a philodendron micans leaf in bright sunshine.A close up of a philodendron micans leaf in bright sunshine.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    These plants love a moss pole to climb up or you can allow your micans to be entirely trailing. Remember, they usually climb onto another plant in nature.

    When it comes to watering, philodendron micans likes the potting medium to remain consistently moist but not soggy and wet.

    The best tip I can give you is not to water on a schedule. The amount of water a houseplant needs will vary constantly depending on the light, temperature, ambient humidity, and other environmental factors.

    A close up horizontal image of a hand from the bottom of the frame holding up a potted velvet-leaf philodendron plant.A close up horizontal image of a hand from the bottom of the frame holding up a potted velvet-leaf philodendron plant.

    You might water once a week during the summer and once every other week during the winter.

    It’s better to check the soil every time before you water. You might eventually be able to tell just by lifting the pot and testing the weight, but until then, just stick a finger into the soil.

    It should be dry about a quarter to halfway down into the pot. If you don’t want to dirty your finger, you can always use a soil moisture meter instead.

    When you water, make sure to do so at the soil level and keep going until the liquid runs out of the drainage hole. If you have a catchment container, empty it after about half an hour.

    Speaking of soil, choose something loose and rich, with water-retentive properties. Moss, perlite, and vermiculite are both common water-retentive ingredients.

    My favorite soil for houseplants is FoxFarm Ocean Forest.

    It contains earthworm castings, bat guano, fish meal, humus, sandy loam, and sphagnum moss combined to create a medium that all my plants seem to love.

    FoxFarm Ocean Forest

    It’s available in one and a half cubic foot bags via Amazon.

    Don’t expose your plant to temperatures below 55°F or above 90°F. Ideally, you want to situate it in an area that stays between 65 to 80°F.

    If you see dark brown blotches between the leaf veins, this indicates the plant was exposed to temperatures that are too low.

    A close up horizontal image of a philodendron micans leaf pictured in bright sunshine pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a philodendron micans leaf pictured in bright sunshine pictured on a soft focus background.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    This can happen during the winter if your plant is situated near a window or exterior door.

    Philodendron micans will adapt to just about any humidity level, though it may develop brown leaf tips in very dry areas. Aim for humidity between 40 to 60 percent.

    Feed your plants once a month from spring until fall, but hold off during the winter. Use a balanced, mild fertilizer. It’s usually easiest to look for one formulated for houseplants.

    Dr. Earth’s Pump and Grow for houseplants is easy to use thanks to its pump. It also has a perfectly balanced and mild NPK ratio of 1-1-1.

    A close up of a bottle of Dr Earth Pump and Grow isolated on a white background.A close up of a bottle of Dr Earth Pump and Grow isolated on a white background.

    Dr. Earth Pump & Grow

    You can grab a 16-ounce container at Arbico Organics.

    Overfeeding will result in the leaves curling at the end. Underfeeding can cause v-shaped yellow areas to form on the leaves, which indicates magnesium deficiency.

    Growing Tips

    • Keep your plants in bright, indirect light or some direct morning exposure.
    • Water when the top quarter of the soil has dried out.
    • Feed once a month, spring through fall, with a mild, balanced food.

    Pruning and Maintenance

    You don’t have to prune philodendrons, but you can always cut them back to encourage bushier growth or to remove straggly vines.

    Plants grown in too little light tend to become leggy, with long internodes, which is the area between the leaves.

    A close up vertical image of a potted velvet-leaf philodendron trailing over the side of the container on a balcony.A close up vertical image of a potted velvet-leaf philodendron trailing over the side of the container on a balcony.

    You should always prune off any dying, diseased, deformed, or discolored leaves or stems as you notice them.

    When you decide to prune, visit our guide to learn everything you need to know about the process.

    Every few years, you’ll likely need to either divide or repot the plant into a larger container. Don’t go too large, though. Philodendrons, as with most aroids, like to have their roots a bit snug.

    Unlike self-heading or non-climbing species, climbing philodendrons like micans don’t necessarily need to be divided, but it’s an option if you want to multiply your plants or you don’t want to increase the pot size.

    Where to Buy Philodendron Micans

    A few years ago, it was hard to find philodendron micans at stores. Now, you can find them all over the place.

    A close up of a small philodendron micans in a four inch pot held up by a human hand.A close up of a small philodendron micans in a four inch pot held up by a human hand.

    Philodendron Micans

    You can find a cute little plant in a four-inch pot available via Walmart.

    If you prefer something a bit bigger, you can grab a more established plant in an eight-inch pot from California Tropicals via Amazon.

    By the way, in your search, you’ll probably come across philodendron micans plants with pink foliage. They’re absolutely stunning but I would advise you not to buy one.

    The pink coloring comes from the hormone ethylene, which growers give to the plant to induce the hue artificially.

    Once new leaves form, they’ll emerge in their normal color, and the existing pink leaves will revert back to green over time.

    Managing Pests and Disease

    So long as you support your plants with the right care, it’s unlikely that you’ll ever experience problems.

    A close up horizontal image of philodendron micans plants growing in pots at a nursery.A close up horizontal image of philodendron micans plants growing in pots at a nursery.

    Pests are more common than diseases, but they are more likely to attack other houseplant species before they’re going to go for your philodendron micans.

    Perhaps there’s something about those velvety leaves that doesn’t appeal to bugs!

    Insects

    All the usual houseplant suspects can affect micans, but if you catch an infestation early, it’s rarely a problem.

    Let’s start with public enemy number one:

    Aphids

    Aphids are an extremely common household pest. They will feed on philodendron micans, especially if the plant is already stressed.

    These tiny pests use their sucking mouthparts to draw out the sap from plant tissue. This will cause the leaves to turn yellow or have yellow speckles.

    You’ll also often see a sticky, clear substance on the stems and foliage. This is the honeydew that the aphids secrete as they feed.

    It’s fairly easy to treat aphids if you catch them early. You can usually spray them off with a strong stream of water or use a broad-spectrum insecticide.

    We have lots of tips in our guide to dealing with aphids, so be sure to read it if you want more details.

    Mealybugs

    Mealybugs are closely related to scale, which we’ll talk about next, and the treatment is similar.

    These small oval insects sap the suck out of the plants, moving so slowly that you might not even realize they’re alive. As they drain the plant, the leaves turn yellow and new shoots might die.

    These pests are covered in a waxy white or gray substance, which make them kind of look like the symptoms of a fungal infection. Like aphids, they secrete a sticky substance called honeydew.

    You can wipe each individual insect with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol. You can also add an insecticide for a double-whammy.

    For more details, read our guide to dealing with mealybugs.

    Scale

    Similar to mealybugs, scale are flat, oval insects but they lack the waxy coating. At first glass, an infestation might look like some sort of lumpy leaf spot disease.

    They cause the same damage and can be controlled the same way as mealybugs. We also have a guide that explains how to address a scale infestation.

    Disease

    Diseases are rare and usually associated with overwatering, overcrowding, or poorly draining soil.

    Bacterial Blight

    Bacterial blight is caused by Erwinia carotovora pv. carotovora. When it infects your plant, you will see small dark green spots that are almost black on the foliage and stems.

    As they expand, the entire leaf and petiole will turn into mush. If you take a whiff, the plant will smell like the water in a flower arrangement if you leave it unchanged for a week or two.

    The bacteria spread in water, so good air circulation and avoiding water splash is important.

    Once your plant is infected, there’s no cure, so it’s best to toss the specimen rather than risk the disease spreading.

    Bacterial Spot

    Bacterial spot is a disease caused by the pathogen Zanthomonas campestris pv. dieffenbachiae.

    Look for tiny spots on the margins of the leaves. They’ll usually look water-soaked, but as they age, they take on a tan or reddish-brown hue and might have yellow halos.

    Most often, plants are infected at the nursery or greenhouse, and the symptoms don’t show up until much later.

    You should always check any plants you purchase for signs of disease, but symptoms won’t necessarily be obvious.

    Once again, there’s no cure, so you’ll need to dispose of the infected specimen so the disease doesn’t spread.

    Root Rot

    There are two causes of root rot. The first is chronic overwatering which results in the roots sitting in oversaturated soil unable to access sufficient oxygen.

    The other cause is infection from oomycetes in the Pythium genus, which need lots of moisture to thrive.

    In both cases, the result is yellowing leaves that will eventually turn brown. The leaves typically won’t drop from the plant. If you look at the roots, they will be black and mushy.

    Root rot is one of the most common problems in houseplants.

    I’ve found the best treatment is to remove the plant from the soil, wash out the pot with soap and water, and repot the plant with fresh potting soil.

    Then, soak the soil once a month with Mycostop, a biofungicide that uses the beneficial bacteria Streptomyces strain K61 to kill pathogens like oomycetes.

    A close up of the packaging of Mycostop Biofungicide isolated on a white background.A close up of the packaging of Mycostop Biofungicide isolated on a white background.

    Mycostop Biofungicide

    Purchase five or 25 grams at Arbico Organics.

    You can learn more about how to deal with root rot in our guide.

    Best Uses for Philodendron Micans

    If you live in Zones 10 to 12, this plant is a beautiful ground cover or trailing option for the garden.

    A close up vertical image of a velvet-leaf philodendron micans trailing over the side of a cabinet.A close up vertical image of a velvet-leaf philodendron micans trailing over the side of a cabinet.

    As a houseplant, it’s lovely climbing up a pole or wall – with support of course. Put it in a hanging pot or display it trailing down a bookshelf.

    Quick Reference Growing Guide

    Plant Type: Herbaceous aroid epiphyte or hemi-epiphyte Foliage Color: Bronze, pink, green
    Native to: Central and South America Tolerance: Some low light
    Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10-12 Soil Type: Loose, airy, humus-rich
    Exposure: Bright, indirect light, morning direct light Soil pH: 6.0-7.5
    Time to Maturity: 8 years Soil Drainage: Well-draining
    Length: 20 feet Uses: Hanging plants, climber, ground cover (outdoors)
    Spread: 10 feet Order: Alismatales
    Growth Rate: Fast Family: Araceae
    Water Needs: Moderate Genus: Philodendron
    Maintenance: Low Species: Hederaceum
    Common Pests and Diseases: Aphids, mealybugs, scale, spider mites; bacterial leaf spot, root rot Variety: Hederaceum

    All Hail The Mighty Micans

    I could go on raving about how much I love philodendron micans, but I’m hoping that you’re already a convert after reading this guide. It’s truly a beautiful yet carefree houseplant option.

    A close up horizontal image of the foliage of a philodendron micans growing up a moss pole indoors.A close up horizontal image of the foliage of a philodendron micans growing up a moss pole indoors.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    How are you growing your philodendron micans? Is it climbing up a moss pole or trailing over the sides of a hanging container? Let us know in the comments section below!

    And for more information about growing philodendrons, check out these guides next:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • 99.9% Home-Grown Breakfast | The Survival Gardener

    99.9% Home-Grown Breakfast | The Survival Gardener

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    My first attempt at bacon was a moderate success, so breakfast was created with all home-raised ingredients!

    Farm eggs, pickled homegrown daikon radishes, mizuna greens sautéed in lard from our pigs, as well as bacon from our pigs:

    The hot sauce on the second plate (my plate) was also made from homegrown hot peppers.

    The only thing we didn’t produce was the turmeric powder I added to the daikon pickles, the pepper and garlic powder I put on the eggs and the seasonings in the bacon.

    That means 99.9% of this meal was home-raised.

    What a blessing!

    We hope to raise some chickens in the spring so we can be even more self-sufficient on meat production. Thanks to our pigs, we no longer have to buy any cooking oil. And thanks to the cows, we don’t have to buy any milk.

    Right now, we’re also setting up the spring gardens so we have tons of production in 2024. We build the beds and add manure, lime and other amendments early, so we’re ready to grow when the weather warms up.

    What a blessing it is to eat homegrown food. I wish more people would turn away from factory food and embrace growing good things in the soil. No hormones or injections, no GMOS, no pesticides… just honest, real food.

    Here’s what we had for dinner:

    Home-raised porckchops.

    Hard to beat.

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  • The New USDA Hardiness Zone Map 2023: What This Means for You

    The New USDA Hardiness Zone Map 2023: What This Means for You

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    Even if you’ve never seen a copy of the USDA hardiness map, you’ve likely comes across its zones mentioned on the backs of seed packets, on plant tags, and in plant guides on website like ours. More seasoned gardeners can use the information to help decide if a plant will thrive or survive in their garden, or if they should take a chance on a plant outside of their zone.

    This past November, the US Department of Agriculture issued its first map update in more than a decade. Here’s what it means for you.

    What is the USDA hardiness map anyway?

    USDA Hardiness Zone Map 2012

    The USDA hardiness map—the official name is Plant Hardiness Zone Map—helps gardeners determine which perennial plants can survive in their climate. It is based on the average annual minimum temperature in a given area (in other words, how low the temperature gets in your area on average).

    The USDA created the hardiness map in 1960 and it has been updated in 1990 and 2012. The map is divided into 13 hardiness zones which represent 10 degree increments, and then further split into half zones with ‘a’ and ‘b’ sections, which represent five degree increments. Zone 1 is the coldest zone, with an average annual minimum temperature of -60°F or below. Zone 13 is the warmest zone, with an average annual minimum temperature of 60°F or above.

    What changed in the updated map?

    To use the 2023 USDA Hardiness Zone Map, simply find your area on the map by entering your zip code. From there you will see what zone you’re in and can select perennial plants that should survive the winter in your area.
    Above: To use the 2023 USDA Hardiness Zone Map, simply find your area on the map by entering your zip code. From there you will see what zone you’re in and can select perennial plants that should survive the winter in your area.

    • About half the US—mainly in the Midwest and Northeast—has moved into the next warmer half zone.
    • Updated collected data over a longer period of time using 1991 to 2020 versus earlier maps.
    • Increased granular information for locations and now includes microclimates of cities, mountain ranges, and near bodies of water. This is due to over a 50 percent increase in temperature data sources, with 13,625 weather stations for 2023 versus 7,983 in 2012.
    • Includes a new “Tips for Growers’ section.

    Gardeners need to keep in mind that the map uses a single data point. It is the average lowest temperature in a given location over the last 30 years. The key word here is average. If you’re in zone 7b, it means your lowest average winter temperature is 5°F  to 10°F. It does not mean you won’t have one or more colder days that could kill certain plants.

    It also doesn’t take into consideration variables specific to your garden. This includes your soil composition, the amount of sunlight, and any microclimates produced by structures. An example would be a fig tree that can be susceptible to winter dieback: In a sheltered area, up against a cinder block garage, it may do just fine due to the stored heat energy from the sun that the cinder blocks release at night, keeping the aerial part of the plant from freezing.

    What are the real world applications of the updated map?

    Above: Most of Massachusetts now falls into zones 6 or 7, rather than zone 5B or 5A—making winters more hospitable to certain perennials. Photograph of Cape Cod garden by Justine Hand, from Secret Garden: At Home with Marnie on Cape Cod.

    You may be able to grow “new to you” flowers, fruits, vegetables, and other plants. Maybe. Especially if you’re on a border of two zones.

    The map is especially useful in helping you decide the right tree tree to plant. Due to the long lifespan of most trees, knowing the trend for your specific location can help you pick a tree that may thrive over one that may not. If your zone is shifting warmer and you love maple trees, the map can help you choose which one. Sugar maples do best in zones 4 through 8. Red maples do best in zones 3 through 9. If you’re in zone 7b in 2023, and you plant a sugar maple, a tree that can live over 300 years, it could find itself out of its comfort zone before it hits 100 years old. If you choose a red maple which can live on average between 80 and 100 years, but as long as 300 years, it could be happy until the end of its days.

    Check out our Lookbook for more images of Cape Cod gardens.

    See also:

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  • Janet's Rock Garden – FineGardening

    Janet's Rock Garden – FineGardening

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    Eric Sternfels sent in today’s photos. We’ve visited Eric’s garden before (Summer in Eric’s Garden) but today he’s taking us along on a tour of a friend’s garden:

    Here is a group of photos from the home of Janet in the Chestnut Hill neighborhood of Philadelphia. Janet’s an officer of the North American Rock Garden Society – Delaware Valley Chapter.

    Rock gardening is all about growing little plants that thrive in the good drainage found in the cracks and crevices between rocks. This stone retaining wall is a carpet of color with all the wonderful little plants growing on it.

    close up of stone wall with plants growing over the front

    Looking down the wall from the other direction. Amazing what an abundance of plants and beauty grows in a space that would seem inhospitable.

    close up of plants growing out of and on top of stone wall

    Closer look at some of the beauties growing on and trailing down the wall. Not just any stone wall can be planted up like this, they have to be built with spaces for the plants to go

    close up of pink flowers growing in stone wall

    Lewisia cotyledon (Zone 5 – 8) is native to western North America, and thrives in the good drainage of the stone wall.

    small succulent growing in stone wall with pink foliage plant growing above

    A little succulent tucked into a space between the stones, while an ornamental oregano (Origanum sp., Zone 5 – 9) blooms above it.

    garden trowel stuck in rock garden

    A garden trowel gives a sense of scale to this rocks and the countless tiny plants growing on and around them. There is a whole miniature landscape here.

    close up of small plant covered in bright purple flowers

    Aubrieta (Zone 4 – 9) greets spring with masses of rich purple flowers.

    close up various spring flowers in the garden

    Spring bloomers from primroses (Primula species and hybrids, Zone 3 – 8) to fritillaria (Fritillaria meleagris, Zone 3 – 8) give an early show.

    close up of succulents growing out of stone wall

    Hens-and-chicks (Semperivium sp., Zone 4 – 8) making a thriving colony between the stones. These little hardy succulents are easy to keep happy as long as they have good drainage.

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • How to Prevent and Treat Root Rot in Houseplants

    How to Prevent and Treat Root Rot in Houseplants

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    Has your previously perky, lush, and green houseplant suddenly turned sickly yellow and droopy, or are there brown areas on the foliage and dropping leaves?

    Root rot is a common issue in houseplants. Because they’re grown in such small environments compared to what they’d experience in nature, they’re a lot more sensitive to extremes such as too much water. And too much water is a direct cause of root rot.

    A close up vertical image of a houseplant removed from its pot suffering from root rot. To the top and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.A close up vertical image of a houseplant removed from its pot suffering from root rot. To the top and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

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    Pretty much any species is susceptible to root rot, though some are more resilient than others.

    Coming up, we’ll help you figure out if your plant has root rot and what to do about it.

    Here’s what I’ll cover:

    Managing Root Rot in Houseplants

    Before we figure out how to identify it, let’s talk about what causes root rot.

    Causes of Root Rot

    There are two main causes of root rot. The first is an abiotic condition when there is so much water in the soil that the roots literally drown.

    When the soil is oversaturated, the roots aren’t able to access enough oxygen, and they start to turn soft and mushy. Just like any other creature when it’s deprived of oxygen – the plant starts to die.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener holding a monstera in a wicker pot.A close up horizontal image of a gardener holding a monstera in a wicker pot.

    In addition, there are many different fungi and water molds (oomycetes) that can cause the problem, but Fusarium spp., Pythium spp., Phytophthora spp., Rhizoctonia spp. are the most common and attack the broadest range of plants.

    All of these pathogens thrive in high moisture and can be spread via water, in contaminated soil, on contaminated tools, and by insects, particularly aphids. The pathogens enter the plant via damaged vascular tissue.

    The pathogens aren’t airborne, but if you have a humid home or growing area, they can spread through the water droplets in the air.

    Symptoms

    The symptoms of this disease can vary depending on the species affected. But in general, you’ll see yellowing leaves, brown patches on the foliage, dropping leaves, and stunted growth.

    A close up horizontal image of a houseplant growing in a pot suffering from disease.A close up horizontal image of a houseplant growing in a pot suffering from disease.

    The plant might be wilting even though the soil feels adequately moist.

    The best way to tell if the disease is present is to remove the houseplant from its container and inspect the roots.

    You’ll generally see brown, black, dark, soggy roots. Some of the tissue might be healthy but there will be distinct evidence of rotting areas.

    In the case of large, woodier plants like some palms and Ficus species, the outer layer of the roots – known as the epidermis – might slough off, leaving the pale interior exposed.

    You might also notice a bad odor. If you’ve ever sniffed the old water in a vase that has been holding cut flowers, you know the smell.

    Prevention

    Root rot is almost always preventable. One of the easiest ways to avoid it is to be cautious about how much and how you water.

    Avoid overwatering by testing the soil with your finger or a moisture meter before you water.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener watering a rubber tree growing in a decorative pot.A close up horizontal image of a gardener watering a rubber tree growing in a decorative pot.

    Don’t rely on a watering schedule, since every species is different and will take up moisture differently depending on the temperature, any breezes in your space, or the relative humidity in your home.

    Make sure every container you use has drainage holes. You can place a container with drainage inside a decorative pot, but be sure to empty it out 30 minutes after watering. The same applies if you use any sort of water-catching saucer.

    Use a well-draining potting soil suitable for the species that you’re growing, and don’t put a layer of rocks or broken pottery at the base of the pot. This actually makes the problem worse, not better.

    When you water, be sure to apply the water to the soil, not on the leaves. Or use the bottom watering technique.

    You can learn more about how to water houseplants in our guide.

    Always use clean, fresh soil and wipe any tools or containers with a 10 percent bleach solution before pruning or potting up.

    When you bring a new specimen home, isolate it for a week or two to make sure it doesn’t have any symptoms of disease to avoid spreading the pathogens to your other plants.

    Finally, avoid stressing your plants. A stressed houseplant is more susceptible to pathogens present in the soil. Inappropriate light, drought, and pest problems can all cause stress.

    Treatment

    The first step in treatment is to remove the plant from the container and get rid of all the soil.

    You might need to rinse the roots in a stream of lukewarm water, or it might just brush away if it isn’t oversaturated.

    If you happen to catch a whiff of something unpleasant, sort of like the old water in a vase holding a bouquet of flowers, that’s a good indication of root rot.

    When you have all the roots exposed, look them over carefully. If you find any that are black, soggy or broken, cut these off with a clean pair of scissors or clippers just a bit above where the damage ends. You want nothing left but clean, healthy roots.

    Wipe the old container out with a 10 percent bleach solution.

    Spray the roots with a fungicide formulated for root rot or a broad-spectrum fungicide. There are a lot of options on the market, but you don’t need to look for anything fancy. A classic choice is copper fungicide.

    Another option is Actinovate AG, which contains the beneficial microbe Streptomyces lydicus WYEC 108.

    A close up of a package of Actinovate AG isolated on a white background.A close up of a package of Actinovate AG isolated on a white background.

    Actinovate AG

    This powerful fungicide is available at Arbico Organics in an 18-ounce bag.

    That’s enough to treat a lot of plants repeatedly, so it’s ideal if you’re dealing with multiple specimens or just want to be sure you have something on hand.

    After you have trimmed off all the rotten tissue and treated the roots, repot the specimen with fresh, clean potting soil. Continue to soak the soil with a fungicide according to the manufacturer’s directions until healthy new growth emerges.

    Going forward, use a soil moisture meter and be especially careful not to overwater.

    Resistant Species

    If you really can’t stop overwatering your houseplants, either get an epiphytic species and mount it on wood or wire, or stick to growing air plants (Tillsandia spp.). It is almost impossible to overwater a mounted specimen!

    In addition, there are a number of species that aren’t prone to this condition. These are some good choices:

    Cast-Iron Plant

    As their common name suggests, cast-iron plants (Aspidistra spp.) are tough. Really tough.

    You’d have to absolutely drown this houseplant for a sustained period to kill a cast-iron plant.

    The strap-like leaves come in various shades of green and can have beautiful variegation in the form of spots and or lines.

    A close up square image cast-iron plant growing in a pot indoors in a formal living room.A close up square image cast-iron plant growing in a pot indoors in a formal living room.

    Cast-Iron Plant

    You can find cast-iron plants in one- and three-gallon containers available at Fast Growing Trees.

    Learn more about cast-iron plants in our guide.

    Cyperus

    Cyperus species like umbrella sedge or papyrus plant (C. alternifolius) are extremely tolerant of wet feet.

    They grow in swampy areas in the wild, so that should come as no surprise. If you’re a convicted overwaterer (raises hand), consider this palm-like species.

    A close up square image of papyrus plant growing in a pot outdoors.A close up square image of papyrus plant growing in a pot outdoors.

    Papyrus Plant

    Fast Growing Trees carries this beautiful species if you’d like to bring one (or more) home.

    Fuchsia

    If you grow fuchsia (Fuchsia spp.) as houseplants, you’ll not only be treated to the gorgeous blossoms, but a specimen that will tolerate soggy conditions as well.

    A close up horizontal image of red and white fuchsia flowers growing indoors pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of red and white fuchsia flowers growing indoors pictured on a soft focus background.

    While they can technically suffer from root rot, you’d really have to make an effort.

    Ficus

    Many Ficus species are resistant to root rot, both from overwatering and from pathogens, but not all. Fiddle-leaf figs, for one, seem to be more prone than others in the genus.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener setting a potted creeping fig in a wooden stand.A close up horizontal image of a gardener setting a potted creeping fig in a wooden stand.

    My first experience with this disease was a fiddle-leaf fig that I overwatered for months before I realized what I’d done wrong.

    It lost half of its leaves and needed some serious rehab, but it’s still with me and lovelier than ever after all these years.

    But creeping figs (F. pumila), for example, won’t flinch at too much water.

    Learn more about growing ficus plants in our guide.

    Ivy

    Ivy (Hedera helix) isn’t the easiest houseplant to grow, which is ironic given how prolific it is outdoors.

    A close up horizontal image of variegated ivy growing in a pot indoors pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of variegated ivy growing in a pot indoors pictured on a soft focus background.

    But of all the things that might make your ivy unhappy indoors, root rot probably won’t be one of them.

    If you’d like to know more about how to grow ivy indoors, check out our guide.

    There’s No Reason to Suffer With Root Rot

    Root rot is one of the more common problems when growing houseplants, but that doesn’t mean it has to cause trouble in your indoor garden.

    A close up horizontal image of rotten roots on a houseplant.A close up horizontal image of rotten roots on a houseplant.

    As I said, you can largely avoid root rot if you take a few precautions. Even if it this disease does become an issue, you can treat it if you catch it early enough and save your plants from certain doom.

    Are you struggling with root rot? What symptoms are you seeing? Let us know in the comments section below.

    And for more information about growing houseplants, check out these guides next:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • Is Alcohol Toxic? | The Survival Gardener

    Is Alcohol Toxic? | The Survival Gardener

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    Is alcohol toxic – even in small amounts?

    I find alcohol to be pleasant to drink, but it rapidly makes me tired, then disturbs my sleep and makes me feel fuzzy the next day, even in small amounts.

    Perhaps I’ve been poisoning myself.

    So, is alcohol toxic? This is an interesting presentation:

    I don’t know anything about this presenter, but he has a good jaw line. And he has done his research.

    I have been a moderate drinker since I was 21. As I’ve gotten older, alcohol has agreed with me less and less.

    I had my last drink on the 7th, and will see what happens over the month as I continue to abstain.

    We’ll see if it has any effect on my energy levels and health. Apparently alcohol still interferes with the brain for days after having a drink. Since I’m no longer smoking (as of the 1st), I’m already in “quitting” mode.

    I should quit caffeine as well and make it a trifecta.

    No. That’s too much.

    In the podcast, there is a ton of information on the toxic effects of drinking. It may not be a “healthy in moderation” practice, despite the news articles we grew up with linking red wine to heart health, etc.

    Why not experiment and see what it feels like to be a boring teetotaler?

    [ad_2] David The Good
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  • Growing Liatris Spicata: A Hardy Perennial With 4-Season Interest

    Growing Liatris Spicata: A Hardy Perennial With 4-Season Interest

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    Growing Liatris Spicata: A Hardy Perennial With 4-Season Interest












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    Tara Nolan

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