Category: Home & Garden

This is that time of year when we take cuttings of our beloved plants. These are the indoor plants that grew too big over the summer months, the perennials we would like to increase in numbers rather than dividing, or from bringing in an entire annual plant from outside.

Taking cuttings isn’t difficult, some simple steps are needed though, to ensure the least amount of casualties happen. First, before taking the actual pieces from a plant, you need to gather all the materials needed. You will need sharp pruners or an exacto knife to take the cuttings from the original plant, containers to put your cuttings in, the soil which the cuttings grow their roots, the rooting hormone, water and light.

The containers to put your cuttings in can range from Styrofoam cups, or used, clean yogurt containers, to purchased plastic cell packs. The number of containers needed depends on how many cuttings you are planning to do. If you are doing a large amount of cuttings, a bottom tray is essential, as this prevents movement of your cut stems when you need to move them. You also need a covering to keep the moisture level high while your cuttings are trying to root; either a purchased clear plastic dome or a dry-cleaner bag work well.

Second, you need the soil that they will root in. It is best to purchase a sterilized potting soil, as this will prevent any disease from attacking the cutting, as well as providing the needed amount of aeration to the growing roots. You can re-use old potting soil from other sources, but it will need to be sterilized again, as well as any nutrients will be gone.

An easy method for sterilizing your own pre-used soil, is to pour boiling water through the soil several times. The pot of soil is placed into a sink and the boiled water is allowed to drain through. I tend to stay away from this; it is easier to purchase a sterilized bag than to re-sterilize and clean up, as well as it is not guaranteed that it will be completely sterilized. I do, however, use the pre-used sterilized soil in the bottom half of pots when I am upgrading a smaller plant into a larger pot. These plants already have their roots established and the odds are less that they will succumb to any viruses.

Thirdly, a rooting hormone is helpful, but not essential. Rooting hormones are powders that the cut end of the plant is dipped into, before they are inserted into the soil. These powders are a very mild acid that

activate the plant into thinking they need a stronger root base, thus roots are grown. I have had great success when not using rooting hormones before, but have had even better results when I’ve used them.

Rooting hormones come in different strengths; Number 1 for softwood types of cuttings, Number 2 for semi-hardwood types and Number 3 for hardwood types. Most cuttings taken from average gardeners are softwood and therefore Number 1 is the most used. Number 1 is for plants such as geraniums and plants with a green stem. Number 2 is used for plants that are more woody in nature and have a brown tone to their stem and Number 3 is generally used for tougher stems, such as shrubs.

Lastly, for any plant to grow, water and light are needed. Water given to any cutting should be at room temperature, as cold water can shock the cutting. Light is needed from a reliable source; either a sunny window that is preferably south facing, as this is the strongest sunlight, or from artificial grow lights, usually a fluorescent light fixture. Other artificial lights are available, but more commonly used by commercial growers as they are more expensive to use and purchase.

Once these items are gathered together, it is time to get them organized. Set up your containers on your tray and fill them with your potting mix until they are three-quarters full. Don’t fill them to the very rim, as you need space for your water to sit before it is absorbed into the mix, as well as room for your cutting stem to be inserted.

Next, lightly water your containers just enough to get it moist, not wet as you don’t want to rot your cutting or encourage any fungus growth. An easy test to see how well you have moistened your soil, is to hold the moistened soil in your hand and close your hand tightly. If water seeps through your fingers then the mix is too wet. If the mix holds its shape when you open your hand it is the perfect consistency and if it falls apart, then it is too dry.

Now it is time to take your cuttings! There are many plants that are easy to take cuttings from, such as annual geraniums, various ivy, trailing verbena and various perennials.

Cut one of the stems of your plant to a length of 4-5 inches just above a set of leaves. With your new cutting in your hand, remove the very end of your stem to the very bottom of where the next set of leaves appear. This removes the unwanted stem because the new roots appear at where the leaves are. Next, remove all of the leaves except three to four at the very top. This is done to help the plant make new roots, as well as keep itself alive without having to keep so many leaves active.

Once this is done, lightly insert the cut end about one-quarter inch into the rooting powder and shake off any excess. Next, gently insert the cutting into the prepared soil containers 1 to 1.5 inches deep. If you have difficulty inserting your cutting, make a hole with a pencil first then insert the cutting. Lastly, gently firm the soil around the cutting with your fingers. Do this procedure until you have taken all of the cuttings and place your plastic lid or bag on top. If using a plastic bag, use sticks that keep the bag from touching the leaves on your cuttings. Keep your covering on your cuttings for 2-3 weeks then remove it in gradual time periods for a few days to allow it to get accustomed to its new air climate. After a few days the covering can be removed completely.

That is really all there is to it! Keep watering regularly or spray with a misting bottle and don’t forget if you take a lot of cuttings to label them with a waterproof marker on a plastic or wooden tag.

In 4-6 weeks after taking your cutting, you should see new leaves appear. Wait at least 10-12 weeks before moving your rooted cutting into a larger pot. To see if it is ready to be moved into a larger container, turn the container upside down and look for a lot of new roots. The roots should be white and healthy looking, if they are brown in any area, then they are dead from either not enough water or too much water. Look at how often you water and determine which of the two you are doing. Once the cuttings have been moved into a larger pot, give it regular feedings of a mild fertilizer and enjoy your new plants!

TIP

If you are taking cuttings from one plant to another, it is best to dip your cutter into a mild bleach and water solution to prevent disease.

by Jennifer Moore

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Email: Jennifer Moore

Gardeners today with busy schedules want less work in their gardens, and thus a need is established for plants that do just that. Their focus is more on leaf texture and foliage colour, rather than blooms and pruning schedules, consequently plants that don’t require a lot of care and maintenance are sought after.

Self-sufficient ponds, shade gardens, and woodland gardens are emerging in backyards across the country, and with it increases the number of carefree plants needed. Various species of ferns are such a plant. Ferns native to our area or bred in other countries are making their way into gardeners’ hearts everywhere.

Ferns that are short, tall, medium green, silver-toned, whispy or leathery are being discovered at nurseries everywhere, and it seems the more you look, the more choices are being offered.

It was once viewed as passé to have an area of only ferns, but now it has come full circle and the want is back. When mass-planted, their smooth, elegant, and graceful forms are being seen once again.

Long ago, native ferns were sought after for their delicate, tender, and tightly curled fronds in the springtime. Boiled, then pan-fried in butter they were considered a delicacy and only a select few were allowed to eat them. Still today, the hunt for indulgence is there and most often is given at fine restaurants at luxurious prices for a few short weeks.

Other advantages are being seen, as ferns grow virtually anywhere; dappled shade, full sun, wet to almost dry areas, and it seems that once established in its new location – it thrives with little or no input from the owner.

Not needing a deep soil bed, they can also be grown in all types of soil. They are not fussy, really only needing soil that is kept moist to establish themselves in. If given a sandy area, then compost and decomposed manure would be required.

Many ferns are available at nurseries throughout the country; be sure you buy from a reputable company that purchases their ferns from growers and are not harvested from the wild.

Different ferns have different looks; the following is a selection of sampling available for the gardener’s delight:

Sensitive Fern – Growing 12 to 24 inches tall, this plant has wider leaves making up each branch. Still toothed, it’s leaves have softer curves than the regular ferns commonly seen in the wild. It grows well in part-sun to part-shade, in moist to dry soil and survives zone 4 winters.

Hare’s Tongue Fern – Unusual because the fronds do not look like the traditional, deeply-toothed ones. Instead, the plant has wide, leathery-looking leaves, sometimes more than 4 inches across that are deeply toothed. A pretty, medium green and a smooth leaf gives this plant a wonderful look when it is planted in a large clump. Growing not too tall at 12 inches, this plant can be placed in many areas; either part-sun or shade and in moist or dry locations. It grows well into zone 3.

Japanese Painted Fern – A unique fern with its silver-tipped, deeply toothed leaves and purple-red stems. It grows best in a partial sun, moist site, to a height of 18 to 24 inches. A hardy plant, growing in zone 3, I wonder why more people don’t have it.

Ostrich Fern – Large, showy, wide fronds grow 2 to 3 feet tall emanating from the centre in a large circle. It grows in full sun to part shade and in moist or dry soils. Grows in zone 3 well.

Cinnamon Fern – Growing 2 to 4 feet tall in full shade to full sun, and in dry or moist soil. The leaves are medium green, deeply toothed and not as wide as the Ostrich Fern. The characteristic that gives this plant its name is a medium brown branch that grows from the center of the crown and resembles a large cinnamon stick. Survives zone 3 winters wonderfully.

Oak Fern – Growing only 12 to 16 inches in height, this is a great plant for small areas. It’s leaves are deeply cut, but many stems make up a single frond on this plant. It is suitable for moist soil and shade to sun locations. Easily surviving zone 3 winters.

With the versatility of these plants, it is easy to see why they are making a comeback; in people’s gardens and hearts.

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Email: Jennifer Moore

When I moved to my current apartment I had windows along the south wall perfect for a winter garden, but no patio or yard in which to put my compost. The solution? A compost column built from two recycled two-liter plastic bottles, an idea from the University of Wisconsin’s Bottle Biology Resources Network.

Look carefully at the drawing. The two bottles are cut differently. The first bottle has the bottom pried off and the top cut off. The larger portion of this bottle becomes the top chamber of the column,

The second bottle has only the bottom cut off. The bottom then becomes the base of the column and is a dish into which excess water can drip, keeping your kitchen counter or window dry as you fill the column with compost. The top of the first bottle can be used as the lid, or you can use either of the bottoms. You can recycle the parts of the bottle that you don’t use.

I put the column along the east side of my kitchen window, where it is handy for me to throw in scraps from my vegetables and fruits which are cleaned in the sink immediately below. I also throw in an occasional eggshell. I can also sprinkle water into the top, and the sun provides some additional heat to keep the compost working.

I’m not allowed a cat or a dog in the apartment, and I would not use their droppings in this compost pit if I did. I do throw in a little manure purchased at the local garden store, however.

The results: Last year my tomatoes grew and produced throughout the winter. With the benefit of a little additional fluorescent light, they grew all around my sink. This year I reserved the kitchen window and the florescent lights for my miniature roses. I moved my tomatoes to a table in the living area where they have more room. The result has been great until this last week when one of the tomatoes began to grow a little spindly. I’ve harvested about eight tomatoes, have eight tomatoes currently on my three plants, and there are many blooms, suggesting I’ll continue to have a good crop for some months.

The tomatoes take a lot of water in this heated apartment, but my apartment compost reduces the amount I have to give each plant. I also am sure to water my plants twice, with a gap of about twenty minutes between each watering, so the plants drink as much of the water as possible. Little water is wasted, and I’m reminded each time I water, of the benefits of having a good apartment compost column.

by Max Dalrymple

If Leeks could Kill: Vichyssoise to Die for

by Phil Heiple

Vichyssoise (potato-leek soup)

• 1 Potato
• 3 Leeks
• 1 onion
• Garlic
• 1 to 2 cups cream
• Butter

Chop up and cook potato, garlic, onion, and leeks in butter in saucepan. Put cream in blender and add 2/3 cooked vegetables. Blend til smooth.
Return to saucepan and heat. Good served hot or chilled.
Garnish with sour cream and chopped herbs. Drop dead easy.

Phil Heiple has been gardening since the mid-seventies.
Recipes for all the stuff he grows: www.rain.org/~philfear/garden.htm

Buchu Agathosma betulina Buchu Barosma betulina Buchu Barosma crenulata Buchu Barosma serratifolia Buck Parsnip Lomatium triternaturm Buck’s Horn Plantain Plantago coronopus Buckthorn Rhamnus catharticus Buckthorn Rhamnus frangula Buckthorns Rhamnus   Buckwheat Fagopyrum esculentum Buckwheat Bush Eriogonum   Buffalo Gourd Cucurbita foetidissima Buffalo Grass Hierochloe odorata Bugbane Cimicifuga   Bugleweed Lycopus virginicus Bugloss Anchusa azurea Bugloss Anchusa capensis Bulbous Buttercup Ranunculus bulbosus Bunch Flower Melanthium virginicum Bunchberry Cornus canadensis Bundle Flower Desmanthus   Burnet Sanguisorba   Burnet Rose Rosa spinosissima Burnet Saxifrage Pimpinella saxifraga Burning Bush Dictamnus albus Burra Gookeroo Pedalium murex Burr-Daisy Calotis erinacea Burro’s tail Sedum morganianum Burry Vervain Verbena lappulaceae Bush Basil Ocimum minimum Bush Bean Phaseolus vulgaris var. nanus Bush Clover Lespedeza   Bush Cucumber Mukia micrantha Bush Garbanzo Bean Cicer arietinum Bush Honeysuckle Lonicera diervilla Bush ladybell Adenophora potaninii Bush-potato Operculina brownii Butcher’s Broom Ruscus aculeatus Butea Kino Butea frondosa Butterbur Petasites vulgaris Butterburr Petasites hybridus Butterfly Bush Buddleja   Butterfly Flower Schizanthus   Butterfly Flower Schizanthus pinnatus Butterfly ginger Hedychium coronarium Butterfly Lobelia Lobelia   Butterfly-pea Clitoria ternatea Butternut Squash Cucurbita moschata Butterwort Pinguicula vulgaris Button Snakeroot Liatris spicata Button Snake-root Eryngium aquaticum Cabbage Brassica   Cabbage Brassica oleracea Cabbage Brassica oleracea var. capitata Cabbage Palmetto Sabal palmetto Cabbage Rose Rosa centifolia Cabbage Tree Andira inermis Cabbage Tree Andira retusa Cabbage Tree Avouacouapa retusa Cabello De Angel Calliandra anomala Cacao Theobroma cacao Cajeput Melaleuca decussata Cajuput Melaleuca erucifolia Cajuput Melaleuca hypericifolia Cajuput Melaleuca lalifolia Cajuput Melaleuca leucadendron Cajuput Melaleuca minor Cajuput Melaleuca veridifolia Calabar Bean Physostigma venenosum Calabash Lagenaria vulgaris Calamint Calamintha officinalis: Calamint Calamintha officinalis: Calamint Satureja calamintha Calamintha Calamintha ascendens Calamondin Orange Citrus mitis Calathea Calathea picturata Calf’s Snout Antirrhinum orontium Calico Plant Aristolochia elegans California Bay Umbellularia californica California Bayberry Myrica californica California black oak Quercus kelloggii California Buckeye Aesculus californica California false hellebor Veratrum californicum California Fan Palm Washingtonia filifera California Huckleberry Vaccinium ovatum California Pepper Tree Schinus molle California Pitcher Plant Darlingtonia californica California Poppy Eschscholzia   California Poppy Eschscholzia californica California red fir Abies magnifica California sagebrush Artemisia californica California Snakeroot Aristolochia californica California White Sage Salvia apiana Californian Buckthorn Rhamnus purshianus Californian Caraway Perideridia kelloggii Californian Fire-Cracker Brodiaea ida-maia Californian Lilac Ceanothus ‘Delight’ Californian Lilac Ceanothus ‘Dignity’ Californian Lilac Ceanothus ‘Gloire de Versailles’ Californian Lilac Ceanothus ‘Topaz’ Californian Lilac Ceanothus arboreus Californian Lilac Ceanothus azurea Californian Lilac Ceanothus impressus Californian Lilac Ceanothus thyrsiflorus Californian Nutmeg Sorreya californica Californian Poison Oak Rhus diversilobe Californian Poppy Bush Dendromecon rigidum Californian Slippery Elm Fremontia californica Californian Soaproot Ornithogalum divaricatum Californian Spikenard Aralia californica Californian White Cedar Calocedrus decurrens Californian Wild Grape Vitis californica Calla Lily Zantedeschia   Callery Pear Pyrus calleryana Calotropis Calotropis gigantea Calotropis Calotropis procera Calumba Jateorhiza calumba Camass Camassia   Camass Camassia esculenta: Camel Thorn Acacia giraffae camelthorn Alhagi pseudalhagi Campernella Narcissus odorus Camphor Cinnamomum camphora Camphor Cinnamomum cinnamonum Camphor Plant Balsamita vulgaris Camphor Southernwood Artemisia camphorata Camphor-rose Geranium Pelargonium x asperum ‘Camphoratum’ Camphor-scented Basil Ocimum kilimandscharicum Campion Lychnis   Campion Lychnis alpina Campion Silene   Camwood Baphia nitida Canacian Hemp Apocynum cannabinum Canada Anemone Anemone canadensis Canada garlic Allium canadense Canada Milk Vetch Astragalus canadensis Canada Tick-trefoil Desmodium canadense Canada Wild Rye Elymus canadensis Canadian Fleabane Conyza canadensis Canahuate Costus guanaiensis Canary Bird Vine Tropaeolum peregrinum Canary Island Date Palm Phoenix canariensis Canary-grass Phalaris canariensis Cancer Wintergreen Gaultheria hispidula Candelabra cactus Euphorbia lactea Candelabrum Primrose Primula helodoxa Candelilla Wax Euphorbia cerifera Candlestick Senna Cassia alata Canola Brassica campestris Cantaloup Melon Cucumis cantalupensis Canterbury Bells Campanula medium Cape Aloë Aloë ferox Cape Bladder Senna Sutherlandia   Cape Jasmine Gardenia jasminoides Cape Pondweed Aponogeton distachyus Caper Capparis spinosa Caper Bush Capparis   Caper Bush Capparis spinosa var. inermis Caper Spurge Euphorbia lathyrus Caracao Sarsaparilla Sarsaparilla officinalis Caraway Carum carvi Caraway Thyme Thymus herba-barona Cardinal Climber Quamoclit x sloteri Cardinal Sage Salvia fulgens Cardoon Cynara cardunculus Cardoon Cynara cardunculus: Cardoon Artichoke Scolymus cardunculus Carline Thistle Carlina vulgaris Carmine rose rock cress Arabis blepharophylla Caroba Jacaranda procera Caroba Prosopis dulcis Caroba Prosopis siliquastrum Carolina Allspice Calycanthus floridus Carolina Lupin Thermopsis caroliniana Carolina Silverbell Halesia carolina Carpetweed Mollugo verticillata Carragheen Moss Gigartina stellata Carrot Daucus carota subsp. sativus Carrots Daucus   Casca Paratuds Cinnamodendron axillaris Cascade willow Salix cascadensis Cascara Sagrada Rhamnus purshiana Cascarilla Croton eleuteria Cascarilla Pogonopus febrifugus Cashew Nut Anacardium occidentale Caspia Statice Limonium bellidifolium Caspian Statice Limonium caspicum Cassabanana Sicana odorifera Cassia Cinnamomum aromaticum: Cassia Cinnamomum cassia Cassia Vera Cinnamomum tamala Cast iron plant Aspidistra elatior Castor Oil Plant Ricinus communis Castus Aplotaxis auriculata Cat Thyme Teucrium marum Catfoot Everlasting Gnaphalium   Catmint Mentha cataria: Catmint Nepeta cataria Catsclaw Acacia greggii Catsfoot Antennaria dioica catspaw Anigozanthos humilis Cattail Typha   Cattail Typha latifolia Cat-thorn Acacia caffra Cattleya orchid Cattleya   Caucasian Elecampane Inula orientalis Cauliflower Brassica oleracea var. botrytis Cayenne Capsicum minimum Cedar Cedrela odorata Cedar Cedrus   Cedar Chamaecyparis   Cedar Thuja   Cedar of Lebanon Cedrus libani Cedar Sage Salvia roemeriana Cedar Wattle Acacia elata Cedrat Lemon Citrus medica cedra: Cedron Simaba cedron Cee-gwa Luffa acutangula Celandine Chelidonium   Celeriac Apium graveolens var. rapaceum Celery Apium graveolens Celery Leaf Lovage Ligusticum apiifolium Celery-leaved Crowfoot Ranunculus sceleratus Centaury Centaurium erythraea Centaury Erythraea acaulis Centaury Sabatia campestris Century Plant Agave   Cereus Cereus caespitosus Cereus Cereus divaricatus Cereus Cereus flagelliformis Cereus Cereus pilocereus Ceylon Agar-Agar Gracillaria lichenoides Ceylon Moss Fucus amylaceus Ceylon Wild Cardamoms Elettaria cardamomum var. major Chaix Mullein Verbascum chaixii Chamomile Anthemis   Chamomile-leaved Artemisi Artemisia chamaemelifolia Chaparral Larrea tridentata Chaparral Lily Lilium rubescens Chapil Crotalaria longirostrata Chapparal Morning Glory Convolvulus occidentalis Chard Beta vulgaris var. vulgaris Chaste Tree Agnus castus Chaulmoogra Taraktogenos kurzii Chaulmoogra tree Hydnocarpus anthelmintica Cheddar Pink Dianthus gratianopolitanus Cheken Eugenia cheken Chenille Plant Acalypha hispida Cherimoya Asimina triloba Cherokee rose Rosa amygdalifolia: Cherokee rose Rosa cherokeansis: Cherokee rose Rosa cucumerina: Cherokee rose Rosa laevigana Cherokee rose Rosa sinica Ait.: Cherokee rose Rosa ternata: Cherokee rose Rosa trifoliata: Cherokee rose: Rosa hystrix: Cherry Birch Betula lenta Cherry Laurel Prunus laurocerasus Cherry Plum Prunus cerasifera Cherry Tomato Lycopersicon pimpinellifolium Chervil Anthriscus   Chervil Anthriscus cerefolium Chervil Scandix cerefolium Chia Salvia columbariae Chia Sage Salvia hispanica Chickengrape Vitis cordifolia Chickweed Stellaria media Chickweed Wintergreen Trientalis europaea Chilacayote Cucurbita ficifolia Chile Capsicum frutescens Chile Capsicum pubescens Chilean Evening Primrose Oenothera acaulis var. aurea Chilean Fire Bush Embothrium coccineum Chilean Glory Flower Eccremocarpus scaber Chilean Jasmine Mandevilla suaveolens Chilean Latern Tree Crinodendron hookerianum Chilean Pine Araucaria araucana Chili Capsicum frutescens f.piment Chilian Centaury Erythraea chilensis Chimney Bellflower Campanula pyramidalis China Fleece Vine Polygonum aubertii China grass Boehmeria nivea China grass Boehmeria tenacissima: China grass Urtica tenacissima: China grass Urtica utilis: China rose Rosa chinensis China rose Rosa indica: China rose Rosa sinica: China Smilax Smilax china China Smilax Smilax pseudo-china Chinaberry tree Melia azedarach Chinese angelica Angelica sinensis Chinese Arbor Vitae Thuja orientalis Chinese Arrowroot Nelumbium speciosum Chinese Artichoke Stachys sieboldii Chinese asparagus Asparagus cochinchinensis Chinese Aster Callistephus chinensis Chinese Banana Musa cavendishii Chinese Broccoli Brassica alboglabra Chinese Butterfly Bush Buddleja fallowiana Chinese chive Allium odorum Chinese Chives Allium tuberosum Chinese Colli Cordyline terminalis Chinese cucumber Eopepon aurantiacus: Chinese cucumber Eopepon vitifolius: Chinese Cucumber Trichosanthes japonica Chinese Cucumber Trichosanthes kirilowii Chinese cucumber Trichosanthes palmata: Chinese Cucumber Trichosanthes rosthornii Chinese Datura Datura ferox Chinese Edelweiss Leontopodium souliei Chinese Elm Ulmus chinensis Chinese Fir Cunninghamia lanceolata Chinese Foxglove Rehmannia elata Chinese Hibiscus Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese hill haw Crataegus cuneata Chinese Holly Ilex cornuta Chinese Houses Collinsia heterophylla Chinese jujube Rhamnus zizyphus: Chinese jujube Zizyphus sativa: Chinese jujube Zizyphus vulgaris: Chinese jujube Zizyphus zizyphus: Chinese Milkvetch Astragalus membranaceus Chinese Mint Mentha haplocalyx Chinese Motherwort Leonurus artemisia Chinese Mustard Brassica juncea var. crispifolia Chinese peony Paeonia albiflora Chinese peony Paeonia edulis: Chinese peony Paeonia lactiflora: Chinese peony Paeonia officinalis Thunb.: Chinese perennial Buckwh Polygonum cymosum Chinese Pistache Pistacia chinensis Chinese preserving melon Benincasa cerifera Chinese preserving melon Benincasa hispida Cogn.: Chinese preserving melon Cucurbita hispida: Chinese preserving melon Lagenaria dasystemon: Chinese Privet Ligustrum lucidum Chinese quince Chaenomeles sinensis Chinese quince Cydonia sinensis: Chinese quince Pirus sinensis: Chinese quince Pseudocydonia sinensis: Chinese Rhubarb Rheum palmatum subsp. tanguticum Chinese sumac Rhus javanica: Chinese sumac Rhus osbeckii: Chinese sumac Rhus semialata Chinese Tallow Sapium sebiferum Chinese trumpet-creeper Bignonia chinensis: Chinese trumpet-creeper Bignonia grandiflora: Chinese trumpet-creeper Campsis adrepens: Chinese trumpet-creeper Campsis chinensis Chinese trumpet-creeper Incarvillea grandiflora: Chinese trumpet-creeper Tecoma grandiflora: Chinese White Mulberry Morus alba Chinese Winter Melon Benincasa hispida Chinese Wolfberry Lycium barbarum Chinese Wolfberry Lycium barbatum Thunb.: Chinese wolfberry Lycium barbatum var. chinense: Chinese Wolfberry Lycium chinense Chinese Wolfberry Lycium megistocarpum: Chinese Wolfberry Lycium ovatum: Chinese Wolfberry Lycium trewianum: Chinese Wolfberry Lycium turbinatum: Chinese yam Dioscorea japonica chinquapin Castanopsis chrysophylla Chir Pine Pinus roxburghii Chiretta Swertia chirata Chives Allium schoenoprasum Chocolate flower Berlandiera lyrata Chocolate lily Fritillaria lanceolata Chocolate-headed Clubrush Eleocharis quinqueflora Chocolate-mint Geranium Pelargonium quercifolium ‘Chocolate-Mint’ Choy Sum (Cantonese) Brassica parachinensis Christmas cactus Hatiora gaertneri Christmas Cactus Schlumbergera bridgesii Christmas Cowslip Pulmonaria montana Chufa Cyperus esculentus Chufa Cyperus esculentus var. sativa Cigar Flower Cuphea   Cigar Flower Cuphea llavea var. miniata ‘Firefly’ Cinchona Cinchona calysaya Cineraria Senecio x hybridus Cinnamon Cinnamomum culiawan Cinnamon Cinnamomum lignea Cinnamon Cinnamomum loureirii Cinnamon Cinnamomum obtusifolium: Cinnamon Cinnamomum pauciflorum Cinnamon Cinnamomum rubrum Cinnamon Cinnamomum sintok Cinnamon Cinnamomum zeylanicum Cinnamon Cassia Cinnamomum aromaticum Cinnamon Geranium Pelargonium crispum ‘Cinnamon’ Cinnamon Yam Dioscorea batatas Citron Citrus digitata seu chirocarpus: Citron Citrus medica Citron Citrus medica var. vulgaris Citronella Grass Cymbopogon nardus Citron-scented Gum Eucalyptus citriodora Citrosa Geranium Pelargonium citrosum ‘Mosquito fighter’ Citrus Fruits Citrus   Clary Sage Salvia sclarea Clasping twistedstalk Streptopus amplexifolius Clear Blue Catmint Nepeta nervosa Clearing Nuts Strychnos pseudo Clearweed Pilea pumila Cleavers Galium aparine Clematis Clematis recta Cleveland Sage Salvia clevelandii Cliff Bellflower Campanula tomasiniana Climbing Brown Milkweed Matelea decipiens Climbing Buckwheat Polygonum convolvulus Climbing Hydrangea Hydrangea anomala Clinker polypore Inonotus obligus Clinker polypore Poria obliqua: Clock Vine Thunbergia   Clorinda Geranium Pelargonium clorinda Cloudberry Rubus chamaemorus Clove Nutmeg Agathophyllum aromaticum Clove Pink Dianthus caryophyllus Clove tree Caryophyllum aromaticum: Clove tree Eugenia caryophyllata Clove-pink Dianthus caryophyllus ‘Grenadin’ Clover Dodder Cuscuta trifolii Cloves Syzygium aromaticum Club-moss mountain heathe Cassiope lycopodioides Cluster Bean Cyamopsis   Cluster Bean Cyamopsis tetragonoloba Cluster cardamom Amomum cardamomum Clustered bellflower Campanula glomerata Clustered Dock Rumex conglomeratus Clustered wild rose Rosa pisocarpa Clusterhead Pink Dianthus carthusianorum Coast Banksia Banksia integrifolia Coast Redwood Sequoia sempervirens Coastal Wattle Acacia sophorae Coat Flower Tunica saxifraga Cochineal Dactylopius coccus Cochineal Insect Cactus Opuntia cochinellifera Cocillana Bark Guarea rusbyi Cockle Vaccaria   Cocklebur Xanthium spinosum Cock’s Comb Templetonia retusa Cockscomb Celosia argentea var. cristata Cockscomb Celosia cristata Cocksfoot-grass Cynodon dactylon Cockspur Coral Tree Erythrina crista-gallii Cockspur Thorn of EN Amer Crataegus crus-gallii Coconut Cocos nucifera Coconut Geranium Pelargonium grossularioides Codonopsis Codonopsis tangshen Coffee Coffea   Coffee Coffea arabica Coffee Chicory Cichorium intybus ‘Magdeburg’ Cola Cola acuminata Colewort Crambe cordifolia Colocynth Citrullus colocynthis Colocynth Cucumis colocynthis Colorado Blue Spruce Picea pungens Colorado Fir Abies concolor Coltsfoot Tussilago farfara Columbia Lily Lilium columbianum Columbine Aquilegia   Columbine Aquilegia hybr. Columbine Aquilegia longissima Columbine Aquilegia vulgaris Columbo Weed Coscinium fenestratum Colville’s Glory Colvillea racemosa Combretum Combretum sundaicum Comfrey Symphytum   Comfrey Symphytum grandiflorum Comfrey Symphytum tuberosum Common Alder Alnus glutinosa Common Alkanet Anchusa officinalis Common American Columbine Aquilegia canadensis Common Barberry Berberis vulgaris Common Birch Betula pendula Common Bistort Bistorta major Common bistort Polygonum bistorta Common Buckthorn Rhamnus … Common Bugle Ajuga reptans Common Calla Lily Zantedeschia aethiopica Common camas Camassia camas Common Camass Camassia quamash Common centaury Centaurium minus Common centaury Centaurium umbellatum Common Cichory Cichorium intybus var. sativum Common Club Moss Lycopodium clavatum Common Comfrey Symphytum officinale Common Cord-grass Spartina stricta Common Daisy Bellis perennis Common Elm Ulmus procera Common Fig Ficus carica Common Fleabane Inula dysenterica Common Forsythia Forsythia x intermedia Common Fritillary Fritillaria meleagris Common Granadilla Passiflora quadranguaris Common Groundsel Senecio vulgaris Common Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna Common Hedge Mustard Sisymbrium officinale Common Hemp Agrimony Eupatorium cannabinum Common Ivy Hedera helix Common ladybell Adenophora liliifolia Common Lime Tilia vulgaris Common Lungwort Pulmonaria officinalis Common Maidenhair Asplenium trichomanes Common Maple Acer campestre Common Melon Cucumis melo Common Moschatel Adoxa moschatellina Common Mulberry Morus nigra Common Oak Quercus pedunculata Common Oak Quercus robur Common Pennywort Hydrocotyle vulgaris Common Plantain Plantago asiatica: Common Plantain Plantago exaltata: Common Plantain Plantago loureiri: Common Plantain Plantago major Common Plantain Plantago major var. asiatica: Common Polypody Polypodium vulgare Common Ray Lolium perenne Common Reed Phragmites australis Common rice Oryza sativa Common Sage Salvia officinalis Common Sandspurry Arenaria rubra Common Scullcap Scutellaria galericulata Common Scurvy Grass Cochlearia officinalis: Common Sorrel Rumex acetosa Common Sow-thistle Sonchus oleraceus Common Speedwell Veronica officinalis Common Spleenwort Asplenium ceterach Common Star Thistle Centaurea calcitrapa Common Stonecrop Sedum acre Common Teazle Dipsacus sylvestris Common Virgin’s Bower Clematis virginiana Common wheat Triticum vulgare Common White Jasmine Jasminum officinale Common Whitebeam Sorbus aria Common wintercress Barbarea vulgaris Common Wintergreen Pyrola minor Common Wormwood Artemisia absinthium Compact harvest lily Brodiaea congesta Compact Oregano Origanum vulgare ‘Compacta’ Compass Plant Silphium laciniatum Conchita Centrosema   Condurango Gonolobus condurango Condurango Marsdenia condurango: Conehead Thyme Coridothymus capitatus confederate rose Hibiscus mutabilis Congo Root Psoralea melilotoides Contrayerva Dorstenia brasiliensis Contrayerva Dorstenia contrayerva Contrayerva Dorstenia drabena Coolgardie Rose Eucalyptus macrocarpa Coolwort Tiarella cordifolia Cootamunda Wattle Acacia baileyana Copaiba Copaifera   Copaiba Copaifera langsdorffii Copalchi Bark Cascarilla esenbeckia febrifuga Copalchi Bark (Mexico) Croton pseudo-china Copper-Beech Fagus sylvatica var. purpurea Copperbush Cladothamnus pyroliflorus Coral Bead Vine Abrus precatorius Coral Bells Heuchera sanguinea Coral Bush Templetonia   Coral Tree Erythrina   Coral Tree Erythrina corallodendrum Coral Vine Antigonon leptopus Coralberry Ardisia crenata Coriander Coriandrum sativum Corkwing Glehnia littoralis Corkwood Tree Duboisia myoporoides Corn Zea   Corn Chamomile Anthemis arvensis Corn Cockle Agrostemma   Corn Cockle Agrostemma githago Corn Marigold Chrysanthemum segetum Corn Melilot Melilotus arvensis Corn Mint Mentha arvensis Corn plant Dracaena fragrans Corn Salad Valerianella locusta Corn Sow-thistle Sonchus arvensis Cornelian Cherry Cornus mas Cornflower Centaurea   Cornflower Centaurea cyanus Cornflower Centaurea cyanus ‘Emperor William’ Cornish Heath Erica vagans Cornu Cola ballayi Corsican Mint Mentha requienii Corsican Moss Fucus helminthocorton Corsican Pearlwort Sagina subulata Cosmea Cosmos bipinnatus Costmary Tanacetum balsamita Costus Saussurea lappa Coto ? Palicourea densiflors Cotoneaster Cotoneaster   Cotton Gossypium vitifolium Cotton Grass Eriophorum angustifolium Cotton Root Gossypium herbaceum Couch-grass Elymus repens Cow Parsley Anthriscus sylvestris Cow Parsnip Heracleum   Cow Parsnip Heracleum lanatum Cowcockle Vaccaria segetalis Cowhage Mucuna pruriens Cowherd Saponaria vaccaria Cowslip Primula veris Cowslip Lungwort Pulmonaria angustifolia Cow-Wheat Melampyrum pratense Crab Apple Malus sylvestris Cranberry Oxycoccus microcarpus: cranberry Oxycoccus palustris Cranberry Vaccinium oxycoccus Cranberry (Am.) Vaccinium macrocarpum Cranesbill Geranium cinereum Cranesbill Geranium dissectum Cranesbill Geranium psilostemon Cranesbill Geranium subcaulescens Crapemyrtle Lagerstroemia indica Crawley Root Corallorrhiza odontorhiza Cream Gentian Gentiana flavida Creamy Yarrow Achillea nobilis Creeping Baby’s Breath Gypsophila repens Creeping Bellflower Campanula rapunculoides Creeping Germander Teucrium canadense Creeping Gloxinia Asarina erubescens Creeping lily-turf Liriope spicata Creeping Plume Thistle Carduus arvensis Creeping Sage Salvia repens Creeping Savory Satureja repandra Creeping snapdragon Asarina procumbens Creeping Soft-grass Holcus mollis Creeping Speedwell Veronica repens Creeping Thyme Thymus praecox Creeping Toadflax Linaria repens Creeping willow Salix stolonifera Creeping zinnia Sanvitalia procumbens Creosote Bush Larrea   Crested Dog’s Tail Cynosurus cristatus Crested Iris Iris cristata Cretan Bear’s Tail Celsia arcturus Crimson boronia Boronia heterophylla Crimson Clover Trifolium incarnatum Crimson Thyme Thymus praecox subsp. arcticus Crimson Thyme Thymus praecox subsp. arcticus ‘Coccineus’ Crisped mint Mentha crispa Crisped Peppermint Mentha x piperita var. crispa Crooked Yellow Stonecrop Sedum reflexum Cross-leafed Heath Erica tetralix Cross-leaved Gentian Gentiana cruciata Crosswort Crucianella stylosa Crosswort Galium cruciatum Croton Codiaeum variegatum Croton Croton tiglium Crow Garlic Allium vineale Crowberry Empetrum nigrum Crown Imperial Lily Fritillaria imperialis Crown Vetch Coronilla varia Crucifixion thorn Castela emoryi Cuban Oregano Plectranthus   Cuban Oregano Plectranthus amboinicus Cubebs Piper cubeba Cucumber Cucumis   Cucumber Cucumis sativus Cudbear Rocella tinctoria Cudweed Graphalium uliginosum Culver’s Root Veronicastrum virginicum Cumin Cuminum   Cumin Cuminum cyminum Cup Moss Cladonia pyxidata Cup Plant Silphium perfoliatum Cup-and-saucer Vine Cobaea scandens Cupid’s bower Achimenes hybrida Cupid’s Dart Catananche caerulea Curacoa Aloe Aloë chinensis Curanja Curanga amara Curare Strychnos toxifera Cure-pire Cyperus sanguinea-fuscus curled chervil Anthriscus cerefolium crispum Curled Cress Lepidium sativum ‘Crispum’ Curled Golden Marjoram Origanum aureum crispum Curled Mallow Malva verticillata Curled Mint Mentha spicata var. crispa Curled Parsley Petroselinum crispum var. crispum Curled Tansy Tanacetum vulgare ‘Crispum’ Curling Everlasting Helichrysum scorpioides Currants Ribes   Curry Leaf Plant Murraya koenigii Curry Plant Helichrysum italicum Cushion Spurge Euphorbia epithymoides Custard Apple Annona glabra Custard Apple Annona squamosa Custard Apple Annona tripetala Cutleaf boronia Boronia denticulata Cutleaf Japanese Violet Viola dissecta var. chaerophylloides Cutleaf Teasel Dipsacus laciniatus Cycad Cycas pectinata Cycad Cycas siamensis Cyclamen Cyclamen persicum Cymbidium orchid Cymbidium   Cypress Cupressus   Cypress asparagus fern Asparagus setaceus Cypress Vine Quamoclit pennata

My first reaction to compost tea was a fairly common response, “So you just put compost in a bucket then dump it on your plants?”  Little did I realize all the science and work that goes into making high quality compost tea or AACT (Actively Aerated Compost Tea). 

In some ways it seems like such a simple concept, to place good compost in  a container with water, add food for the bacteria and fungus in the compost, and then agitate and aerate the tea for a sufficient amount of time to allow the bacteria and fungus and micro-organisms to replicate and grow. 

However, since this is a relatively new field, you seem to find many different ideas on what compost tea is, ranging from total ignorance to in-depth scientific study.  I’ve compiled a few points that I believe to be of significant importance when making compost tea:

1. Good compost is very important! 

Without good biology in the compost, you really have no chance of getting high-quality tea.  You can only multiply what you put into your brewer, therefore good compost that has been tested to have high numbers and a diversity of beneficial organisms is essential.  A lot of science goes into making good compost, and unless you test your compost you really have no idea if what you are putting into your brewer is truly beneficial.  By adjusting the type of compost you put in the brewer you can control whether your tea is going to be bacterial or fungal dominated. We use a mix of 3 different composts to increase our diversity in our teas.

2. Food is critical

The micro-organisms so that they can reproduce and grow in numbers.  The goal is to maximize your output of beneficial biology without giving the bacteria and fungi too much food that they over-replicate and cause the tea to go anaerobic.  There are many different recipes out there, each of which will give you different biology in the end and some are much better than others.  It is important to see the lab results of the recipe you use to make sure that you are indeed maximizing your final product.

3.  Oxygen! 

All living organisms need oxygen to survive, and your tea is no exception.  If you’re not getting enough oxygen in your brew, then your tea will go anaerobic and you will start brewing the “bad” organisms (pathogens such as e.coli or root feeding nematodes) that may have existed in your original compost.  If your tea has enough oxygen and stays aerobic for the entire brew cycle, what you’ll have at the end will be the good biology that you want for your plants.

These are the main ingredients I’ve discovered when making compost tea.  I’m constantly surprised by what people think of when they hear “compost tea.”  I’ve heard it described as everything from “manure in a bucket,” to “boutique fertilizer.”  As the movement towards organics continues, I think we’ll find more consensus on a definition of compost tea and also greater public knowledge on the subject. It is our job to educate others on the potential benefits of organics and compost tea!

By Tad Hussey

Regular mowing is essential to the production and maintenance of a good lawn. Unless this is assured, expense, and work on all kinds of recommended treatments are of little value.

A first-class lawn needs cutting two or three times a week during periods of vigorous growth and even a very ordinary type of lawn needs cutting at least once a week. Less frequent mowing is adequate when growth is poor but the grass should never be allowed to exceed the chosen height by very much. Even in the winter months, occasional topping may be needed when conditions are suitable. Whenever mowing is carried out, the best results are obtained if the surface is dry.

The height of the cut depends on the quality of the lawn required and the type of grass sown. There is no need to maintain a lawn at the very short length required for bowls or golf.  Such close cutting 5mm (1/2in) causes great strain on the grass plants and even the very fine grasses thrive best at heights of 8-12mm (1-4-in). Other grasses do not survive very well at all when cut at this height even, and so a height of 1-2cm (.5-1in) is more suitable. Even the best varieties of perennial ryegrass, however, should not be cut closer than 2.5cm (1in).

Grass cuttings contain a useful amount of mineral matter in their bulk of moist organic material and allowing cuttings to fall back on the lawn decreases the drain on plant foods which arises when cuttings are removed. On the other hand, the organic material is known to encourage disease, weeds, earthworm casting, and soft surface conditions so that the best rule is undoubtedly to box off the cuttings and use them elsewhere in the garden.

The essence of a good lawn is uniformity and to get a uniform cut it is necessary to have a smooth surface. The best ways of achieving this are care in the original preparation of the lawn (ie obtaining a smooth seedbed which is sufficiently and uniformly firm to reduce the risk of settlement) and top dressing the existing lawn with sandy compost material so as to gradually smooth out the hollows. Rolling helps, of course, but rolling also causes consolidation which restricts root development and impedes moisture penetration so that it is an operation which must not be overemphasized.

To achieve a really good cut you need a good mower in good condition. Clearly, you cannot achieve a bowling green finish with a second-hand grade C mower. The quality of a mower is generally related to cost, so buy the best you can afford from this list of quality lawnmowers. For really good results you need a good conventional mower giving the maximum number of cuts per yard run. Rotary mowers like a reel lawn mower are undoubtedly very suitable for many purposes but they do not give a first-class finish suitable for the really good lawn. Whatever kind of mower is used, the best results are obtained if it is set correctly and if regular cleaning, oiling, etc is carried out.

When mowing, start at one edge of the lawn and push the mower continuously, rather than with a ‘push-pull’ motion, until you reach the end of the lawn. Then turn and mow in the other direction, the cut slightly overlapping the first cut. This produces the alternate light and dark bands which so many people admire.

However, to obtain the best results, you should change the direction of mowing each time you cut the lawn. If you cut from north to south at one mowing, cut from east to west next time, and so on. Continuous mowing in one direction only will produce the so-called `washboard’ effect, a series of alternate ridges and hollows.

An exception to the rule of starting at the edge is when a `Cal Trimmer’ mower is used. With this machine the cuttings are not boxed but are left lying in small heaps on the lawn and, to avoid having to spend much time and energy raking them up after mowing, it is better to start by making the first cut down the center of the lawn and then making alternate cuts, first on one side and then on the other of the first cut, in opposite directions. It will be found that most of the clippings will be pushed gradually to the edges of the lawn and maybe raked up much more easily or with the last cut may be blown on to flanking flower beds where they will act as a mulch.

Lately, I have noticed that the mail-order garden supply catalogs are full of Asian-themed garden accessories such as pots, traditional bamboo fences, and stone lanterns. This seems to go along with the trend toward Asian-inspired minimalism in home décor. In California and the Pacific Northwest, traditional Asian and Asian-inspired gardens have been popular for years. Can a national vogue for Chinese and Japanese gardens be far behind?

Probably not, and that’s a good thing. At a time when the urge to indulge in conspicuous consumption leads some people to jam suburban lots full of waterfalls, follies, gazebos, and monstrous outdoor cooking appliances, a little minimalism can’t hurt. The traditions of Asian gardening, which are inextricably linked to various religious, cultural, and aesthetic philosophies, go back thousands of years. Asia is also a horticultural treasure trove.

Western plant hunters have been bringing back specimens from all over the continent ever since Europeans first went East in search of the rare and costly. The nineteenth century was a particularly fertile time for these plant hunters, and they obtained many of the species that we take for granted today.

The Asian garden of today is more about philosophy and contemplation than ostentation, but it wasn’t always that way. Conspicuous consumption is neither new nor native to America. It was already going strong during the reign of the Chinese Emperor Yangdi in the 7^th century AD. Yangdi’s garden, according to historical accounts, had trees that were covered with silk flowers during the winter, mechanical figures that sailed in boats along specially constructed canals, and a mix of real and artificial lotus blossoms floating in the water.

Fortunately, things have gotten simpler since then. When people think of Asian gardens, they may envision a Chinese walled garden with its carefully edited collection of specimen plants; or a Japanese karesansui or dry garden made up of carefully placed elements such as stone, sand and moss. Another type of Japanese garden comprises a microcosm of natural features—hills, rivers, and valleys—brought down to garden size.

Those who have been to Japanese-style gardens such as the one at Sonnenberg Gardens in Canandaigua, New York, think of a restful green garden with a tea house as a central feature. This kind of landscape, which came about during the late 16^th century, incorporates stepping stones, mosses and ferns, stone basins, and lanterns to guide guests to the teahouse for the tea ceremony.

You can certainly incorporate Asian traditions in your home garden, even if you don’t have the space to erect a teahouse, the energy to construct a miniature landscape or the time to rake sand in pleasing patterns. In the Chinese tradition, enclosure is important. If you are choosing new fencing, consider one made of bamboo.

With or without an enclosure, you can select a corner and plant Black Pine (Pinus thunbergiana), or one of the many beautiful species of Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), such as the coral bark maple (‘Sango Kaku’), which also provides beauty in winter with its red branches. A weeping cherry (Prunus serrulata) or a flowering plum tree (Prunus blireiana) would be an equally good choice.

Place a simple stone or wooden bench in front of the tree, and position a large pot filled with ferns or ornamental bamboo to one side. (Because of its invasive habits, bamboo is usually more successful in home gardens when it is containerized.) If bamboo doesn’t sing to you, fill the container with one of the Asian grasses, like Chinese Zebra Grass (Miscanthus sinensis zebrinus), with its tall, distinctively marked blades that whisper in the breeze. Encourage moss to grow under your tree, by transplanting clumps from another mossy area.

Water features are in vogue now, and Asian gardens, like the Moon Viewing Garden at the Strybing Arboretum in San Francisco, often have reflecting pools. If you have a backyard fishpond or pool, surround it with stone, ferns and Japanese iris. Use rhododendrons and azaleas as a backdrop. On moonlit evenings study the reflections on the water’s surface.

If the idea of an Asian garden intrigues you, try to see as many of them as possible. The Chinese Scholar’s Garden on Statan Island is an excellent place to start, but there are many others all over the country. A recent book, The Art of Japanese Gardens by Herb Gustafson (Sterling 2000) can help you to choose the right elements for your home landscape. If you favor Chinese styles, try The Chinese Garden by Joseph Cho Wang (Oxford, 1998).

The world gets smaller and busier every day. Relieve the stress and broaden your cultural horizons by bringing a far off corner of it to your own backyard.

by Contact Elisabeth Ginsburg

Press Here!
Yellow Rose
SWORD LILIES
CHANGE IN THE GARDEN
UNFORGETTABLE
FRESH VEGGIES

Evergreen succulent with a mat-forming growth habit, that bears rosettes of pointed, thick leaves, many times with bristly margins, or covered with a web of white hair. Royanum has yellowish-green, red-tipped leaves. Star-shaped, reddish-purple flowers are held in flat cymes on the terminal ends of hairy, upright stems. The rosettes die after flowering but are replaced by new rosettes on lateral runners. An old-time favorite used in concrete planters on either side of the front entry. Great in window boxes or niches.

Important Info : Keep dry in winter.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: Royanum  
Family: Crassulaceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 0.5 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 1.67 ft.  
Plant Category: cacti and other succulents, perennials,  
Plant Characteristics: low maintenance, spreading,  
Foliage Characteristics: evergreen,  
Flower Characteristics: unusual,  
Flower Color: purples, reds,  
Tolerances: deer, drought, pollution, rabbits, slope, wind,  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: Mid Summer to Late Summer  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 8  
AHS Heat Zone: 3 to 8  
Light Range: Part Shade to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 7.5  
Soil Range: Mostly Sand to Clay Loam  
Water Range: Dry to Normal  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Young Plants

Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Light Conditions

Unless a site is completely exposed, light conditions will change during the day and even during the year. The northern and eastern sides of a house receive the least amount of light, with the northern exposure being the shadiest. The western and southern sides of a house receive the most light and are considered the hottest exposures due to intense afternoon sun.

You will notice that sun and shade patterns change during the day. The western side of a house may even be shady due to shadows cast by large trees or a structure from an adjacent property. If you have just bought a new home or just beginning to garden in your older home, take time to map sun and shade throughout the day. You will get a more accurate feel for your site’s true light conditions.

Conditions : Light and Plant Selection

For best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Right plant, right place! Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a “leggy” stretched-out appearance. Also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than desirable. It is possible to provide supplemental lighting for indoor plants with lamps. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned or otherwise damaged.

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Problems : Waterlogged Soil and Solutions

Waterlogged soil occurs when more water is added to soil than can drain out in a reasonable amount of time. This can be a severe problem where water tables are high or soils are compacted. Lack of air space in waterlogged soil makes it almost impossible for soil to drain. Few plants, except for bog plants, can tolerate these conditions. Drainage must be improved if you are not satisfied with bog gardening. Over-watered plants have the same wilted leaves as under-watered plants. Fungi such as Phytophthora and Pythium affect vascular systems, which cause wilt.

If the problem is only on the surface, it maybe diverted to a drainage ditch. If drainage is poor where water table is high, install an underground drainage system. You should contact a contractor for this. If underground drains already exist, check to see if they are blocked.

French drains are another option. French drains are ditches that have been filled with gravel. It is okay to plant sod on top of them. More obtrusive, but a good solution where looks aren’t as important, think of the French drain as a ditch filled with gravel. Ditches should be 3 to 4 feet deep and have sloping sides.

A soakway is a gravel filled pit where water is diverted to via underground pipes. This works well on sites that have compacted soil. Your soakway should be about 6’wide and deep and filled with gravel or crushed stone, topped with sand and sodded or seeded.

Keep in mind that it is illegal to divert water onto other people’s property. If you do not feel that you can implement a workable solution on your own, call a contractor.

Tools : Watering Aides

No gardener depends 100% on natural rainfall. Even the most water conscious garden appreciates the proper hose, watering can or wand.

Watering Cans: Whether you choose plastic of galvanized makes no difference, but do look for generous capacity and a design that is balanced when filled with water. A 2 gallon can (which holds 18 lbs. of water) is preferred by most gardeners and is best suited for outdoor use. Indoor cans should be relatively smaller with narrower spouts and roses (the filter head).

Watering Hose: When purchasing a hose, look for one that is double-walled, as it will resist kinking. Quick coupler links are nice to have on ends of hoses to make altering length fast. To extend the life of your hose, keep it wound around a reel and stored in a shady area. Prior to winter freezes, drain hose.

Sprayers: Are commonly thought of as devices for applying chemicals, but can really be a step saver for watering houseplants or small pots of annuals rather that dragging out a hose or making numerous trips with a watering can. The backpack sprayer is best suited for this. Take care not to use any kind of chemical in tanks used for watering!

Sprinklers: Attached to the ends of garden hoses, these act as an economical irrigation system. Standing Spike Sprinklers are usually intended for lawns and deliver water in a circular pattern. Rotating Sprinklers deliver a circle of water and are perfect for lawns, shrubs and flower beds. Pulse-jet sprinklers cover large areas of ground in a pulsating, circular pattern. The head usually sits up on a tall stem, except for when watering lawns. Oscillating sprinklers are best for watering at ground level in a rectangular pattern.

Conditions : Dry

Dry is defined as an area that regularly receives water, but is fast draining. This results in a soil that is often dry to a depth of 18 inches.

Conditions : Normal

Normal is defined as regular watering to a depth of 18 inches, but periodically dries out in the top 7 inches between waterings.

Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor Plants

Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

Conditions : Outdoor Watering

Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:

* The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1′ being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.

* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.

* Don’t wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).

* Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.

* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.

Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor Plants

Normal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

How-to : Reduce Watering

This plant requires less watering during winter months, so reduce watering from late November through early March.

Planting

How-to : Preparing Garden Beds

Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.

A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established.

How-to : Preparing Containers

Containers are excellent when used as an ornamental feature, a planting option when there is little or no soil to plant in, or for plants that require a soil type not found in the garden or when soil drainage in the garden is inferior. If growing more than one plant in a container, make sure that all have similar cultural requirements. Choose a container that is deep and large enough to allow root development and growth as well as proportional balance between the fully developed plant and the container. Plant large containers in the place you intend them to stay. All containers should have drainage holes. A mesh screen, broken clay pot pieces(crock) or a paper coffee filter placed over the hole will keep soil from washing out. The potting soil you select should be an appropriate mix for the plants you have chosen. Quality soils (or soil-less medias) absorb moisture readily and evenly when wet. If water runs off soil upon initial wetting, this is an indicator that your soil may not be as good as you think.

Prior to filling a container with soil, wet potting soil in the bag or place in a tub or wheelbarrow so that it is evenly moist. Fill container about halfway full or to a level that will allow plants, when planted, to be just below the rim of the pot. Rootballs should be level with soil line when project is complete. Water well.

How-to : Planting Perennials

Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup, seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees.

The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop and not have to compete with developing top growth as in the spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established sized plant.

To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water the plant thoroughly and let the excess water drain before carefully removing from the container. Carefully loosen the root ball and place the plant in the hole, working soil around the roots as you fill. If the plant is extremely root bound, separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are okay, but should be kept to a minimum. Continue filling in soil and water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until stable.

To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread roots and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun until stable.

To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift the seedling and as much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly until stable.

How-to : Sow Seed

Now is the preferred time to sow seed.

Problems

Fungi : Rusts

Most rusts are host specific and overwinter on leaves, stems and spent flower debris. Rust often appears as small, bright orange, yellow, or brown pustules on the underside of leaves. If touched, it will leave a colored spot of spores on the finger. Caused by fungi and spread by splashing water or rain, rust is worse when weather is moist.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and provide maximum air circulation. Clean up all debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. Do not water from overhead and water only during the day so that plants will have enough time to dry before night. Apply a fungicide labeled for rust on your plant.

Miscellaneous

Conditions : Deer Tolerant

There are no plants that are 100% deer resistant, but many that are deer tolerant. There are plants that deer prefer over others. You will find that what deer will or will not eat varies in different parts of the country. A lot of it has to do with how hungry they are. Most deer will sample everything at least once, decide if they like it or not and return if favorable. A fence is the good deer barrier. You may go for a really tall one (7 to 8 feet), or try 2 parallel fences, (4 to 5 feet apart). Use a wire mesh fence rather than board, since deer are capable of wiggling through a 12 inch space.

Conditions : Pollution Tolerant

Air pollution is becoming a bigger problem each day. Pollutants in our air damage plants. The plants are damaged by absorbing sulfur dioxide, ozone, peroxyacetyl nitrate, ethylene, and nitrogen dioxide through their pores. Cell membrane damage may result in leaf drop, blotched or burnt looking leaves, or off-colored tissue between veins. Vehicles and industrial processes are the key culprits and conditions worsen on hot summer days. Though planting only pollution tolerant plants is not the solution to this problem, it is a visual band aid. Your Cooperative Extension Service may have a list of plants that are more pollution tolerant in your area.

Conditions : Rabbit Tolerant

As cute as they are, rabbits can really damage a vegetable garden. Young, tender lettuce plants seem to be their favorite. If a free-roaming dog is not a possibility for you, consider installing raised vegetable beds and covering tender shoots with netting. If you have ample room, you can opt to plant enough for you and the bunnies. Scents don’t always repel animals, as they get used to them and are often washed off in the rain.

Conditions : Slope Tolerant

Slope tolerant plants are those that have a fibrous root system and are often plants that prefer good soil drainage. These plants assist in erosion control by stabilizing/holding the soil on slopes intact.

Conditions : Wind Tolerant

Plants that are wind tolerant usually have flexible, strong branches that are not brittle. Wind tolerant plants often have thick or waxy leaves that control moisture loss from whipping winds. Native plants are often the best adapted to not only wind, but also soil and other climatic conditions.

Glossary : Container Plant

A plant that is considered to be a good container plant is one that does not have a tap root, but rather a more confined, fibrous root system. Plants that usually thrive in containers are slow- growing or relatively small in size. Plants are more adaptable than people give them credit for. Even large growing plants can be used in containers when they are very young, transplanted to the ground when older. Many woody ornamentals make wonderful container plants as well as annuals, perennials, vegetables, herbs, and bulbs.

Conditions : Fall Color

Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.

Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Glossary : Low Maintenance

Low maintenance does not mean no maintenance. It does mean that once a plant is established, very little needs to be done in the way of water, fertilizing, pruning, or treatment in order for the plant to remain healthy and attractive. A well-designed garden, which takes your lifestyle into consideration, can greatly reduce maintenance.

Glossary : Rock Garden

A rock garden is a garden that mimics an alpine area, having dwarf conifers, low-growing sub-shrubs, perennials and ground cover. Often, the soil itself tends to be gravelly or rocky.

Glossary : Mostly Sand

Mostly Sand is soil that: drains rapidly, has some organic matter, and a particle size between .50 – 1.0 mm. Light gray to gray in color. Rarely forms a ball when squeezed in the hand unless damp or wet.

Glossary : Clayey Loam

Clayey loam refers to a soil that retains moisture well, without having a drainage problem. Fertility is high and texture good. Easily forms a ball when squeezed in the hand, and then crumbles easily with a quick tap of the finger. Considered an ideal soil. Usually a rich brown color.

Glossary : Cacti and Succulents

Cacti and Succulents are considered to be one of the most specialized groups of plants that exists. Everything about their form, roots and lack of leaves is aimed towards conserving water. Some cacti and succulent roots are shallow, barely beneath the soils surface, others deeply penetrating.

Glossary : Evergreen

Evergreen refers to plants that hold onto their leaves or needles for more than one growing season, shedding them over time. Some plants such as live oaks are evergreen, but commonly shed the majority of their older leaves around the end of January.

Glossary : Perennial

Perennial: traditionally a non-woody plant that lives for two or more growing seasons.

Glossary : pH

pH, means the potential of Hydrogen, is the measure of alkalinity or acidity. In horticulture, pH refers to the pH of soil. The scale measures from 0, most acid, to 14, most alkaline. Seven is neutral. Most plants prefer a range between 5.5 and about 6.7, an acid range, but there are plenty of other plants that like soil more alkaline, or above 7. A pH of 7 is where the plant can most easily absorb the most nutrients in the soil. Some plants prefer more or less of certain nutrients, and therefore do better at a certain pH.

Glossary : Landscape Uses

By searching Landscape Uses, you will be able to pinpoint plants that are best suited for particular uses such as trellises, border plantings, or foundations.

Glossary : Soil Types

A soil type is defined by granule size, drainage, and amount of organic material in the soil. The three main soil types are sand, loam and clay. Sand has the largest particle size, no organic matter, little to no fertility, and drains rapidly. Clay, at the opposite end of the spectrum, has the smallest particle size, can be rich in organic matter, fertility and moisture, but is often unworkable because particles are held together too tightly, resulting in poor drainage when wet, or is brick-like when dry. The optimum soil type is loam, which is the happy median between sand and clay: It is high in organic matter, nutrient-rich, and has the perfect water holding capacity.

You will often hear loam referred to as a sandy loam (having more sand, yet still plenty of organic matter) or a clay loam (heavier on the clay, yet workable with good drainage.) The addition of organic matter to either sand or clay will result in a loamy soil. Still not sure if your soil is a sand, clay, or loam? Try this simple test. Squeeze a handfull of slightly moist, not wet, soil in your hand. If it forms a tight ball and does not fall apart when gently tapped with a finger, your soil is more than likely clay. If soil does not form a ball or crumbles before it is tapped, it is sand to very sandy loam. If soil forms a ball, then crumbles readily when lightly tapped, it’s a loam. Several quick, light taps could mean a clay loam.

Glossary : Tolerant

Tolerant refers to a plant’s ability to tolerate exposure to an external condition(s). It does not mean that the plant thrives or prefers this situation, but is able to adapt and continue its life cycle.

Glossary : Drought Tolerant

Very few plants, except for those naturally found in desert situations, can tolerate arid soils, but there are plants that seem to be more drought tolerant than others. Plants that are drought tolerant still require moisture, so don’t think that they can go for extended period without any water. Drought tolerant plants are often deep rooted, have waxy or thick leaves that conserve water, or leaf structures that close to minimize transpiration. All plants in droughty situations benefit from an occasional deep watering and a 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch. Drought tolerant plants are the backbone of xeriphytic landscaping.

Glossary : Ground Cover

Aground cover is any low growing plant that is planted in a mass to cover the ground. Shrubs, vines, perennials, and annuals can all be considered ground covers if they are grouped in this fashion. Ground covers can beautify an area, help reduce soil erosion, and the need to weed.

Plant Images

An evergreen, upright shrub or small tree, reaching 12 feet tall, good for shrub borders. The daisy-like flowerheads bloom on corymbs to 8 inches across in mid and late spring. From New Zealand.

Important Info : Also known as O. cheesemanii.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: n/a  
Family: Asteraceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 12 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 10 ft.  
Plant Category: landscape, shrubs, trees,  
Plant Characteristics: low maintenance,  
Foliage Characteristics: evergreen,  
Flower Characteristics: long lasting,  
Flower Color: whites,  
Tolerances:  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Late Spring  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 9 to 10  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 6.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Loam  
Water Range: Dry to Normal  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Young Plants

Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Light and Plant Selection

For best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Right plant, right place! Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a “leggy” stretched-out appearance. Also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than desirable. It is possible to provide supplemental lighting for indoor plants with lamps. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned or otherwise damaged.

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

How-to : Xeriscaping

Xeriscaping is a method of planting which promotes naturally drought tolerant plants and water saving methods. Much consideration is given not only to the plants chosen for the design, but the design itself. Lawns are greatly decreased in size and usually located in the center of plantings at a lower grade as to catch any runoff. Shrubs requiring the most water, are conservatively used and thoughtfully placed, where they may be easily watered, preferably from runoff, and moisture conserved. There is a strong emphasis on using native plants, which a purist will do exclusively. At the very least, improved cultivars of natives are highly recommended.

Irrigation maybe used to supplement watering, but takes a creative turn in the form of drip systems and recycled catch water. Organic mulches in the form of compost, straws, and barks are also used to retain as much water as possible. In extremely dry areas, it is not uncommon for gravel and rocks to serve as the mulch.

A xeriphytic landscape is one that takes your particular site into consideration. A plant that maybe considered low water usage in one area of the country, may not be in another area, due to climatic stresses.

Conditions : Dry

Dry is defined as an area that regularly receives water, but is fast draining. This results in a soil that is often dry to a depth of 18 inches.

Conditions : Normal

Normal is defined as regular watering to a depth of 18 inches, but periodically dries out in the top 7 inches between waterings.

Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor Plants

Normal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

Planting

How-to : Preparing Garden Beds

Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.

A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established.

How-to : Pruning Flowering Shrubs

It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1. By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yielding in less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower production.

Pruning deciduous shrubs can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches, can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new growth which produces summer flowers – in other words, flowers appear on new wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing.

Examples: Minimal: Amelanchier, Aronia, Chimonanthus, Clethra, Cornus alternifolia, Daphne, Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Poncirus, Viburnum. Spring: Abelia, Buddleia, Datura, Fuchsia, Hibiscus, Hypericum, Perovskia, Spirea douglasii/japonica, Tamarix. Summer after flower: Buddleia alternifolia, Calycanthus, Chaenomeles, Corylus, Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Forsythia, Magnolia x soulangeana/stellata, Philadelphus, Rhododendron sp., Ribes, Spirea x arguta/prunifolia/thunbergii, Syringa, Weigela. Suckering: Kerria

How-to : Planting Shrubs

Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and deep enough to plant at the same level the shrub was in the container. If soil is poor, dig hole even wider and fill with a mixture half original soil and half compost or soil amendment.

Carefully remove shrub from container and gently separate roots. Position in center of hole, best side facing forward. Fill in with original soil or an amended mixture if needed as described above. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If the plant is balled-and-burlapped, remove fasteners and fold back the top of natural burlap, tucking it down into hole, after you’ve positioned shrub. Make sure that all burlap is buried so that it won’t wick water away from rootball during hot, dry periods. If synthetic burlap, remove if possible. If not possible, cut away or make slits to allow for roots to develop into the new soil. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If shrub is bare-root, look for a discoloration somewhere near the base; this mark is likely where the soil line was. If soil is too sandy or too clayey, add organic matter. This will help with both drainage and water holding capacity. Fill soil, firming just enough to support shrub. Finish by mulching and watering well.

Problems

Miscellaneous

Glossary : Low Maintenance

Low maintenance does not mean no maintenance. It does mean that once a plant is established, very little needs to be done in the way of water, fertilizing, pruning, or treatment in order for the plant to remain healthy and attractive. A well-designed garden, which takes your lifestyle into consideration, can greatly reduce maintenance.

Glossary : pH

pH, means the potential of Hydrogen, is the measure of alkalinity or acidity. In horticulture, pH refers to the pH of soil. The scale measures from 0, most acid, to 14, most alkaline. Seven is neutral. Most plants prefer a range between 5.5 and about 6.7, an acid range, but there are plenty of other plants that like soil more alkaline, or above 7. A pH of 7 is where the plant can most easily absorb the most nutrients in the soil. Some plants prefer more or less of certain nutrients, and therefore do better at a certain pH.

Plant Images

Upright, hardy, deciduous shrub with elliptic to oblong, 2 to 6 inch long leaves. Single, trumpet-shaped, pink, white, and yellow flowers, 2 to 3 inches wide. Flowers are borne in huge, showy trusses of 18 to 30 blooms per cluster. Bloom time is from mid to late spring. The deciduous hybrid azalea, like it’s native counterpart, is known for excellent fall color and unsurpassed spring flowers. The deciduous azalea is usually less picky about soil conditions, though it too prefers well-drained and acid conditions. The Knap Hill and Exbury azaleas are English hybrids resulting from crosses between R. molle, R. calendulaceum, R. arborescens, and R. occidentale. Though azaleas have a potentially large list of possible pest and disease problems, they are usually trouble-free if planted correctly in proper cultural conditions.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: Minuet  
Family: Ericaceae  
Size: Height: 4 ft. to 10 ft.
Width: 4 ft. to 6 ft.  
Plant Category: landscape, shrubs,  
Plant Characteristics: low maintenance,  
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous,  
Flower Characteristics: long lasting, showy, single,  
Flower Color: pinks, whites, yellows,  
Tolerances: deer, slope,  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Late Spring  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 8  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Part Sun to Sun  
pH Range: 4.5 to 6.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam  
Water Range: Normal to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Young Plants

Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Partial Shade

Partial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.

Conditions : Dappled Light

Dappled Light refers to a dappled pattern of light created on the ground, as cast by light passing through high tree branches. This is the middle ground, not considered shady, but not sunny either. Dappled remains constant throughout the day.

Conditions : Part Sun

Part Sun refers to filtered light, with most sun being received during the afternoon hours. Shade usually occurs during the morning hours.

Conditions : Light Conditions

Unless a site is completely exposed, light conditions will change during the day and even during the year. The northern and eastern sides of a house receive the least amount of light, with the northern exposure being the shadiest. The western and southern sides of a house receive the most light and are considered the hottest exposures due to intense afternoon sun.

You will notice that sun and shade patterns change during the day. The western side of a house may even be shady due to shadows cast by large trees or a structure from an adjacent property. If you have just bought a new home or just beginning to garden in your older home, take time to map sun and shade throughout the day. You will get a more accurate feel for your site’s true light conditions.

Conditions : Filtered Light

For many plants that prefer partially shady conditions, filtered light is ideal. Good planting sites are under a mid to large sized tree that lets some light through their branches or beneath taller plants that will provide some protection.

Conditions : Partial Sun, Partial Shade

Part sun or part shade plants prefer light that is filtered. Sunlight, though not direct, is important to them. Often morning sun, because it is not as strong as afternoon sun, can be considered part sun or part shade. If you live in an area that does not get much intense sun, such as the Pacific Northwest, a full sun exposure may be fine. In other areas such as Florida, plant in a location where afternoon shade will be received.

Conditions : Full to Partial Sun

Full sunlight is needed for many plants to assume their full potential. Many of these plants will do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily or their foliage as vibrant. Areas on the southern and western sides of buildings usually are the sunniest. The only exception is when houses or buildings are so close together, shadows are cast from neighboring properties. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed sunlight on a sunny day. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun, but more than 3 hours. Plants able to take full sun in some climates may only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture of the plant before you buy and plant it!

Conditions : Types of Pruning

Types of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating.

Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.

Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood.

Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.

Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look.

Conditions : Light and Plant Selection

For best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Right plant, right place! Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a “leggy” stretched-out appearance. Also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than desirable. It is possible to provide supplemental lighting for indoor plants with lamps. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned or otherwise damaged.

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor Plants

Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Conditions : Outdoor Watering

Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:

* The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1′ being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.

* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.

* Don’t wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).

* Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.

* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.

Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor Plants

Normal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

Planting

How-to : Preparing Garden Beds

Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.

A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established.

How-to : Pruning Flowering Shrubs

It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1. By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yielding in less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower production.

Pruning deciduous shrubs can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches, can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new growth which produces summer flowers – in other words, flowers appear on new wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing.

Examples: Minimal: Amelanchier, Aronia, Chimonanthus, Clethra, Cornus alternifolia, Daphne, Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Poncirus, Viburnum. Spring: Abelia, Buddleia, Datura, Fuchsia, Hibiscus, Hypericum, Perovskia, Spirea douglasii/japonica, Tamarix. Summer after flower: Buddleia alternifolia, Calycanthus, Chaenomeles, Corylus, Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Forsythia, Magnolia x soulangeana/stellata, Philadelphus, Rhododendron sp., Ribes, Spirea x arguta/prunifolia/thunbergii, Syringa, Weigela. Suckering: Kerria

How-to : Planting Shrubs

Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and deep enough to plant at the same level the shrub was in the container. If soil is poor, dig hole even wider and fill with a mixture half original soil and half compost or soil amendment.

Carefully remove shrub from container and gently separate roots. Position in center of hole, best side facing forward. Fill in with original soil or an amended mixture if needed as described above. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If the plant is balled-and-burlapped, remove fasteners and fold back the top of natural burlap, tucking it down into hole, after you’ve positioned shrub. Make sure that all burlap is buried so that it won’t wick water away from rootball during hot, dry periods. If synthetic burlap, remove if possible. If not possible, cut away or make slits to allow for roots to develop into the new soil. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If shrub is bare-root, look for a discoloration somewhere near the base; this mark is likely where the soil line was. If soil is too sandy or too clayey, add organic matter. This will help with both drainage and water holding capacity. Fill soil, firming just enough to support shrub. Finish by mulching and watering well.

Problems

Pest : Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Rusts

Most rusts are host specific and overwinter on leaves, stems and spent flower debris. Rust often appears as small, bright orange, yellow, or brown pustules on the underside of leaves. If touched, it will leave a colored spot of spores on the finger. Caused by fungi and spread by splashing water or rain, rust is worse when weather is moist.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and provide maximum air circulation. Clean up all debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. Do not water from overhead and water only during the day so that plants will have enough time to dry before night. Apply a fungicide labeled for rust on your plant.

Fungi : Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Diseases : Pythium and Phytophtora Root Rot

Rot Rot, Pythium or Phytophthora occurs when soil moisture levels are excessively high and fungal spores present in the soil, come in contact with the susceptible plant. The base of stems discolor and shrink, and leaves further up the stalk wilt and die. Leaves near base are affected first. The roots will turn black and rot or break. This fungi can be introduced by using unsterilized soil mix or contaminated water.

Prevention and Control Remove affected plants and their roots, and discard surrounding soil. Replace with plants that are not susceptible, and only use fresh, sterilized soil mix. Hold back on fertilizing too. Try not to over water plants and make sure that soil is well drained prior to planting. This fungus is not treatable by chemicals.

Rhizoctonia Root and Stem Rot symptoms look similar to Pythium Root Rot, but the Rhizoctonia fungus seems to thrive in well drained soils.

Fungi : Leaf Spots

Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.

Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.

Fungi : Black Spot

A known rose disease, Black Spot appears on young leaves as irregular black circles, often having a yellow halo. Circles or spore colonies may grow to 1/2 inch in diameter. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off, only to produce more leaves that will follow the same pattern. Roses may not make it through the winter if black spot is severe. The fungus will also affect the size and quality of flowers.

Prevention and Control:Plant resistant varieties for your area. Always water from the ground, never overhead. Practice good sanitation – clean up and destroy debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. When pruning roses, even deadheading, dip pruners in a bleach / water solution after each cut. If a plant seems to have chronic black spot, remove it. A 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch at the base of plant reduces splashing. Do not wait until black spot is a huge problem to control! Start early. Spray with a fungicide labeled for black spot on roses.

Pest : Scale Insects

Scales are insects, related to mealy bugs, that can be a problem on a wide variety of plants – indoor and outdoor. Young scales crawl until they find a good feeding site. The adult females then lose their legs and remain on a spot protected by its hard shell layer. They appear as bumps, often on the lower sides of leaves. They have piercing mouth parts that suck the sap out of plant tissue. Scales can weaken a plant leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Prevention and Control: Once established they are hard to control. Isolate infested plants away from those that are not infested. Consult your local garden center professional or Cooperative Extension office in your county for a legal recommendation regarding their control. Encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden.

Diseases : Blight

Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.

Pest : Lacebugs

Lacebugs are white to pale brown, 1/8 inch long, rectangular in shape with have lacy wings and usually found on the underside of leaves where they suck sap. Nymphs may appear spiny and darker than adults. Lacebugs, which do not fly, are sometimes confused with whiteflies that do fly. Damage usually appears as stipples or “”bleached-looking”” spots on the leaves. Hard, black excrement can usually be found on the underside of leaves. Damage is most visible during the summer, especially on trees. Flowering shrubs, though alive, appear weak and almost lifeless.

Prevention and Control: If infestation is mild, wash away with a jet of soapy water or prune away infested leaves or limbs. Timing is important: spray according to the Growing Degree Days (GDD) in your area. To control insects, spray underside of leaves with a recommended insecticide according to label directions.

Conditions : Chlorosis

Entire leaves or area around veins in leaves appear yellow. This is the result of decreased iron uptake from the soil due to higher pH or waterlogged soil. It is important to know the pH requirements of plants. Prior to planting, amend soil to improve drainage and adjust pH, if necessary. Chlorosis is common in plants growing close to concrete or planted in alkaline soils. Treat with an iron supplement according to label directions.

Miscellaneous

Conditions : Slope Tolerant

Slope tolerant plants are those that have a fibrous root system and are often plants that prefer good soil drainage. These plants assist in erosion control by stabilizing/holding the soil on slopes intact.

Glossary : Border Plant

A border plant is one which looks especially nice when used next to other plants in a border. Borders are different from hedges in that they are not clipped. Borders are loose and billowy, often dotted with deciduous flowering shrubs. For best effect, mass smaller plants in groups of 3, 5, 7, or 9. Larger plants may stand alone, or if room permits, group several layers of plants for a dramatic impact. Borders are nice because they define property lines and can screen out bad views and offer seasonal color. Many gardeners use the border to add year round color and interest to the garden.

Glossary : Container Plant

A plant that is considered to be a good container plant is one that does not have a tap root, but rather a more confined, fibrous root system. Plants that usually thrive in containers are slow- growing or relatively small in size. Plants are more adaptable than people give them credit for. Even large growing plants can be used in containers when they are very young, transplanted to the ground when older. Many woody ornamentals make wonderful container plants as well as annuals, perennials, vegetables, herbs, and bulbs.

Conditions : Erosion Control

Plants that help to control erosion have fibrous root systems that help to keep soil intact. Leaves and the overall form of a plant can prevent erosion by breaking up water droplets before they hit the ground, lessening splashing and runoff.

Conditions : Fall Color

Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.

Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Glossary : Low Maintenance

Low maintenance does not mean no maintenance. It does mean that once a plant is established, very little needs to be done in the way of water, fertilizing, pruning, or treatment in order for the plant to remain healthy and attractive. A well-designed garden, which takes your lifestyle into consideration, can greatly reduce maintenance.

Glossary : Mass Planting

Mass is one of the elements of design and relates directly to balance. Mass planting is defined as the grouping of three or more of the same type of plants in one area. When massing plants, keep in mind what visual effect they will have. Small properties require smaller masses where larger properties can handle larger masses or sweeps of plants.

Glossary : Naturalizing

Naturalizing refers to planting in a random pattern, much as itwould occur in nature. If you spend any time in the woods, you’ve probably noticed that plants often grow in groups. The center of the group is dense and towards the edges, plants are located farther apart. Narcissus bulbs are easy to naturalize if you use this method: fill a bucket with bulbs and toss them out. Plant them where they fall. You will notice a portion of the bulbs are close together while the others have scattered farther away.

Glossary : Specimen

A specimen can be a tree, shrub, ground cover, annual, or perennial that is unique in comparison to the surrounding plants. Uniqueness may be in color, form, texture, or size. By using only one specimen plant in a visual area, it can be showcased. Specimen plants are accents in the landscape, just as statues, water features, or arbors.

Glossary : Deciduous

Deciduous refers to those plants that lose their leaves or needles at the end of the growing season.

Glossary : Shrub

Shrub: is a deciduous or evergreen woody perennial that has multiple branches that form near its base.

Glossary : Long Lasting

Long Lasting: having blossoms that last for an extended period of time. Some plants may have the appearance of providing long lasting flowers because they are prolific, repeat bloomers.

Glossary : pH

pH, means the potential of Hydrogen, is the measure of alkalinity or acidity. In horticulture, pH refers to the pH of soil. The scale measures from 0, most acid, to 14, most alkaline. Seven is neutral. Most plants prefer a range between 5.5 and about 6.7, an acid range, but there are plenty of other plants that like soil more alkaline, or above 7. A pH of 7 is where the plant can most easily absorb the most nutrients in the soil. Some plants prefer more or less of certain nutrients, and therefore do better at a certain pH.

Glossary : Plant Characteristics

Plant characteristics define the plant, enabling a search that finds specific types of plants such as bulbs, trees, shrubs, grass, perennials, etc.

Glossary : Flower Characteristics

Flower characteristics can vary greatly and may help you decide on a “”look or feel”” for your garden. If you’re looking for fragrance or large, showy flowers, click these boxes and possibilities that fit your cultural conditions will be shown. If you have no preference, leave boxes unchecked to return a greater number of possibilities.

Glossary : Foliage Characteristics

By searching foliage characteristics, you will have the opportunity to look for foliage with distinguishable features such as variegated leaves, aromatic foliage, or unusual texture, color or shape. This field will be most helpful to you if you are looking for accent plants. If you have no preference, leave this field blank to return a larger selection of plants.

Glossary : Landscape Uses

By searching Landscape Uses, you will be able to pinpoint plants that are best suited for particular uses such as trellises, border plantings, or foundations.

How-to : Getting the Most Out of Cut Flowers

Cut flowers bring the garden into your home. While some cut flowers have a long vase life, most are highly perishable. How cut flowers are treated when you first bring them home can significantly increase how long they last.

The most important thing to consider is getting sufficient water taken up into the cut stem. Insufficient water can result in wilting and short-lived flowers. Bent neck of roses, where the flower head droops, is the result of poor water uptake. To maximize water uptake, first re-cut the stems at an angle so that the vascular system (the “”plumbing”” of the stem) is clear. Next immerse the cut stems in warm water.

Remember when the flower is cut, it is cut off from its food supply. Once water is taken care of, food is the resource that will run out next. The plants stems naturally feed the flowers with sugars. If you add a bit of sugar (1 tsp.) to the vase water, this will help feed the flower stems and extend their vase life.

Bacteria will build up in vase water and eventually clog up the stem so the flower cannot take up water. To prevent this, change the vase water frequently and make a new cut in the stems every few days.

Floral preservatives, available from florists, contain sugars, acids and bacteriacides that can extend cut flower life. These come in small packets and are generally available where cut flowers are sold. If used properly, these can extend the vase life of some cut flowers 2 to 3 times when compared with just plain water in the vase.

Glossary : Tolerant

Tolerant refers to a plant’s ability to tolerate exposure to an external condition(s). It does not mean that the plant thrives or prefers this situation, but is able to adapt and continue its life cycle.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Glossary : Growth Buds

Plant stems contain numerous buds that will grow and renew a plant when stimulated by pruning. There are three basic types of buds: terminal, lateral and dormant. Terminal buds are at the tips of twigs or branches. They grow to make the branch or twig longer. In some cases they may give rise to a flower. If you cut the tip of a branch and remove the terminal bud, this will encourage the lateral buds to grow into side branches resulting in a thicker, bushier plant. Lateral buds are lower down on the twig and are often at the point of leaf attachment. Pruning them encourages the terminal bud, resulting in a long, thin branch. Dormant buds may remain inactive in the bark or stem and will only grow after the plant is cut back.

Glossary : Pruning

Now is the preferred time to prune this plant.

Plant Images

With increasingly busy lifestyles, even keen gardeners find it hard to devote enough time to their garden. Here we discuss how you can create a low maintenance garden that still looks attractive.

The Challenge

Our client had moved to a brand new house, and as usual, the garden was just a bare plot. The builders had already started laying a lawn but as we all know this means maintenance! The owners wanted low maintenance. We knew our solution had to include paving and gravel, yet still be interesting. You don’t want just a sea of gravel.

We decided to create a large patio area outside the conservatory. This spot was perfect for the main seating area since it was secluded yet sunny. We positioned wooden pergolas to provide added privacy and to give the illusion of extra outside rooms. These in time would be clothed in colourful climbing plants.

A water feature close to the patio gives the sound of running water, relaxing throughout the year.

As gravel was to be used we wanted an architectural style of planting. This meant using structural plants, often with spiked leaves, as these are good for complementing stone.

Construction

The water feature was built out of brick. It is crucial that you pick materials that match the property, so we used the same bricks that the house was made from. The bricks are grey with the odd pink one to break up the appearance. A terracotta pot stands at the top of the feature, with water gurgling out into the pool below.

As large areas of the garden were dressed in gravel we had it supplied by a local quarry. When using gravel or stone in landscaping this is vital, as haulage will be the main cost, not the material itself. It is also far more economical to buy gravel loose rather than in bags from garden centers. Find your local quarry and check out their range.

Tips from the Design Team

• Everybody hates weeding. Always lay a micro-porous membrane underneath gravel. Water can pass through it but weeds can’t.
• When using terracotta pots in a water feature, you can take steps to prevent frost from cracking them. Simply place a tennis ball in the water. If ice forms, the ball will take up the increased pressure by contracting – leaving your pot crack free.
• If you build a wooden pergola, always use hardwood or pressure treated softwood. Untreated softwood will only last for 5 years or so. Pressure treated timbers should give 20 year protection against rot, insect and fungal attack. Get the merchant to provide a written guarantee for peace of mind.

A Golden Pond
Deck Pond
Summer Deck
Hill Side
Historic
Pond Designs
Low Maintenance
From Scratch
Garden Window
Trellis

 

Most Japanese Maple seeds ripen in the fall. Watch the tree and wait for the seeds to turn brown. The seeds are ready to be harvested when they are brown and can be easily removed from the tree. The seeds are attached to a wing, it’s best to break the wing off before storing or planting the seeds.

Japanese Maple seeds have a very hard outer coating as do many ornamental plants. Under natural conditions, the seeds would have to be on the ground for almost two years before they would germinate. All that happens the first winter is the moisture softens the hard outer shell, and the second winter germination begins to take place. For all of this to happen in the proper sequence so the seedlings sprout at a time of the year when freezing temperatures or hot summer sun doesn’t kill them, takes a tremendous amount of luck. You can improve the odds by controlling some of these conditions, and shorten the cycle.

Once you have picked the seeds and removed the wing just place them in a paper bag and store them in a cool dry place until you are ready for them. You don’t want to plant your seeds out in the spring until the danger of frost has passed, here in the north May 15th is a safe bet. If May 15th is your target date you should count backwards on the calendar 100 days. That will take you to about February 5th if my math is correct.

On or about the 100th day before your target planting date, take the seeds and place them in a Styrofoam cup or other container that will withstand some hot water. Draw warm to hot water from your kitchen faucet and pour it over the seeds. Most of the seeds will float, just leave them in the water overnight as the water cools down. 24 hours later most of the seeds will have settled to the bottom of the cup, drain off the water. Place the seeds in a plastic bag with a mixture of sand and peat or other suitable mix. Even light potting soil will work. The peat or soil should be moist, but not soaking wet. Poke some holes in the bag so there is some air circulation, and place the bag in your refrigerator for 100 days.

After 100 days you can plant the seeds outside. If you have timed it correctly, you should be at or close to your target planting date. To plant the seeds just sow them on top of a bed of well-drained topsoil or sterilized potting soil, and cover with approximately 3/8″ of soil. Water them thoroughly, but allow the soil to dry out completely before watering thoroughly again.

If you water them frequently, not only do you stand a chance of the seeds rotting from being too wet, but you will also keep them cool, which will slow down the germination process. Once they start to germinate provide about 50% shade to keep the sun from burning them. Snow fence suspended about 30″ above the bed will provide about 50% shade.

Japanese Maples will tolerate some shade so it isn’t too important to transplant them too quickly. Depending on how close together they are, you might be able to leave them in the same bed for one or two growing seasons. Don’t transplant until they are completely dormant.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of the popular gardening newsletter, “Mike McGroarty’s Gardening Newsletter”, and the webmaster of http://www.freeplants.com/, stop by and sign up for his newsletter, it’s free. How to Grow Japanese Red Maple Trees from Seed

Now is the time for many gardeners to construct, repair or replace raised beds to get a jump on spring planting. It also gives us a great opportunity to prepare the soil inside for next year’s growing season. But did you know that the lumber you choose can actually hurt you?

Pressure treated wood is created by forcing chemical preservatives into the wood cells. These preservatives- creosote, pentachlorophenol and chromated copper arsenate salts – help make the wood resistant to decay by curbing fungus and insect attacks.

Although this is very appealing for raised bed construction, these chemicals leach into the soil and eventually into the plants.

There is an ongoing argument that a certain level of chromium must be in the soil before a plant can absorb these toxins. This would work the same way calcium and magnesium need each other in proper balance for a plant to absorb certain nutrients. But keep in mind, although these chemicals remain in the top few inches of soil, that is the area where our plants absorb most of their nutrients.

Pressure treated wood often takes on a greenish tint due to the copper residue. Lumber that is treated should be marked, but ask your dealer to be sure of what you are buying.

Also, stay away from old railroad ties and utility poles that are often covered in creosote. If you want to dispose of these items, take them to a hazardous waste disposal site. This practice also applies to any pressure-treated lumber. Burning it releases toxins into the air, which, could make you sick or worse if inhaled.

Building structures such as walkways or piers around ponds with pressure treated lumber can be a hazard for fish. Copper residue will kill fish. It is wiser to use a naturally resistant wood like cedar to make your raised beds and window boxes. You can also use stone, brick or cement block, but these can add lime, so check your ph often. So enjoy the benefits of raised beds and save the pressure treated wood for home construction.

Cindy Kerschner teaches composting for Penn State and the DEP through the Master Gardeners program. For more tips, sign up for her newsletters at  Garden With Grammy K