ReportWire

Category: Home & Garden

Home & Garden | ReportWire publishes the latest breaking U.S. and world news, trending topics and developing stories from around globe.

  • How & When To Plant Ginger – Get Busy Gardening

    How & When To Plant Ginger – Get Busy Gardening

    [ad_1]

    Planting ginger is easy, but you have to do it properly and at the right time if you want to get a decent crop.

    So in this post, I’m going to show you exactly when, where, and how to plant your ginger root, with complete step by step instructions.

    Planting a piece of ginger rhizome
    Planting a piece of ginger rhizome
    Pinterest "Pin It" buttonPinterest

    When To Plant Ginger

    It takes 8-10 months for ginger to reach full maturity. So you should plant the rhizomes in late winter or very early spring, depending on where you live.

    If the temperature stays consistently above 50°F outside, then you can plant it in your garden in the spring, and grow it year round.

    But northern gardeners need to start it indoors sometime in January or early February. Then you can either move it outdoors in the container, or transplant it into your garden after the risk of frost has passed in the spring.

    It’s not beneficial to plant it early, because the cold could stunt the rhizomes or cause them to rot. So wait until the ground is at least 60°F, which you can test with a probe thermometer.

    Ginger rhizome for plantingGinger rhizome for planting
    Ginger rhizome for planting

    Where To Plant Ginger

    You can plant your ginger in either a pot or the garden, as long as the soil is rich, fertile, and well draining.

    Outdoors, choose a spot that gets morning or afternoon sun where the plant will be protected from high winds.

    If you use a pot, make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom. Also, keep in mind that the plant can get 3-4′ tall. So choose a large container that’s at least 10″ wide and 10″ deep.

    Related Post: How To Grow & Care For Ginger Plants

    Cutting ginger into pieces before plantingCutting ginger into pieces before planting
    Cutting ginger into pieces before planting

    Spacing Requirements

    For the best results, space each rhizome 6-8” apart in the garden, or plant 1-2 pieces in a large pot.

    It’s very important to give your ginger plenty of room so the plants won’t crowd each other out as they mature.

    Planting Depth

    The rhizomes like to be fairly shallow, so you only need to bury them 2-3 inches deep with the buds (aka eyes) pointing up.

    If they’re too far down, they won’t grow as well, and it could prevent them from sprouting all together.

    Closeup of eyes on ginger rootCloseup of eyes on ginger root
    Closeup of eyes on ginger root

    How To Prepare Ginger Rhizomes For Planting

    While you certainly could take the rhizomes and plant them straight into the soil, there are a few things you should do to prepare them first. Taking these steps will give you the best success and a larger harvest.

    • Use a clean knife to cut the rhizome into 2-3″ long chunks – each piece should have at least two buds on it.
    • To prevent rotting, let the pieces cure for 2-3 days, or until the cuts form calluses over the surface.
    • Soak the pieces in water overnight to soften them up and help break their dormancy. I like to add a little bit of compost tea concentrate to the water to give mine an even better head start.
    Soaking ginger in compost water before plantingSoaking ginger in compost water before planting
    Soaking ginger in compost water before planting

    How To Plant Ginger Step-By-Step

    After you’re done preparing the rhizomes, it’s easy to plant them, and doesn’t take much time. Here’s what you’ll need and the step by step instructions.

    Supplies Needed:

    Step 1: Prepare the soil – If you’re planting your ginger in the ground, remove all the weeds, as well as any large rocks or sticks, and then loosen up the soil. Otherwise fill a container with a good quality potting mix, leaving 3-4″ of headspace on top.

    Then mix compost or an organic granular fertilizer into the top layer of soil before planting the rhizome pieces.

    Pot of soil and ginger ready for plantingPot of soil and ginger ready for planting
    Pot of soil and ginger ready for planting

    Step 2: Plant your ginger root – Space the rhizome pieces approximately 6-8″ apart in the garden, or plant one to two fragments per 10″ pot. Dig a hole that’s 2-3” deep, then place them into it with the eye buds facing up.

    Ginger rhizomes on top of the soil in a potGinger rhizomes on top of the soil in a pot
    Ginger rhizomes on top of the soil in a pot

    Step 3: Cover with soil – Fill in the hole or the rest of the container to cover the pieces with 2-3″ of soil. Then gently pat it down so it comes in good contact with the rhizomes.

    Planting ginger root with eyes facing upPlanting ginger root with eyes facing up
    Planting ginger root with eyes facing up

    Step 4: Water lightly – Give your newly planted ginger root a drink, but don’t overdo it. The goal is to make the soil evenly moist, but not soggy.

    Step 5: Patiently wait for growth – It can be a little slow to start, so be patient. You can expect to see sprouts in 2-3 weeks after you plant them, but sometimes it takes longer.

    Ginger plant leaves sprouting out of the soilGinger plant leaves sprouting out of the soil
    Ginger plant leaves sprouting out of the soil

    FAQs

    What is the best month to plant ginger?

    The best month to plant ginger depends on where you live. If you’re in a warm climate, then you can plant it in March, or as soon as it stays above 60°F in the spring. Otherwise, in colder regions, you need to start it indoors in late January or early February.

    Can you plant ginger root from the grocery store?

    Yes, you can plant ginger root from the grocery store. Just make sure you buy it organic, otherwise it’s usually treated with chemicals that prevent the buds from sprouting.

    Should I soak ginger before planting?

    You technically don’t need to soak ginger before planting, but I definitely recommend it. It will soften the rhizome pieces and help them sprout faster and more reliably.

    Vertical Vegetables bookVertical Vegetables book

    If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

    Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

    More About Growing Your Own Food

    Share your tips for how to plant ginger in the comments section below.

    Pinterest "Pin It" buttonPinterest

    [ad_2]

    Amy Andrychowicz

    Source link

  • Plum Pit Germination Success! | The Survival Gardener

    Plum Pit Germination Success! | The Survival Gardener

    [ad_1]

    Last summer, we found a marvelous stand of plums fruiting along the highway just north of the Tennessee border.

    We ate some, turned others into jam, and saved all the pits and stratified them in the fridge.

    They were really good fruit!

    Now almost every single one is germinating, so we should be able to offer some beautiful Prunus americana seedlings in the nursery within a year.

    How cool is that?

    All that to say, yesterday we recorded a video of how to sprout plum pits and why it’s worthwhile. That will go live this afternoon on YouTube.

    This morning I’m headed to a friend’s place to help butcher some hogs. Got some good people helping and “many hands make light work.”

    And sometimes bacon.

    Catch you all soon.

    [ad_2] David The Good
    Source link

  • Window blinds: why these overlooked furnishings deserve more respect – Growing Family

    Window blinds: why these overlooked furnishings deserve more respect – Growing Family

    [ad_1]

    Collaborative post

    In the grand scheme of home decor, window blinds are often relegated to the sidelines, with homeowners opting for quick and inexpensive solutions.

    It’s time to shed light on the importance of quality window blinds and why they deserve more attention than they usually get.

    bay window fitted with white venetian window blinds

    Why are window blinds overlooked?

    Many homeowners underestimate the impact that window blinds can have on the overall aesthetics and functionality of a room.

    The lure of ‘cheap and cheerful’ off-the-shelf options from homeware stores often wins, driven by the assumption that simplicity equals efficiency. However, this couldn’t be further from the truth.

    Why you should care more about your home’s blinds

    Choosing cheaper, off-the-shelf blinds may seem like a cost-effective decision initially, but it often leads to more hassle in the long run. Pre-made shades frequently struggle to fit most windows precisely, requiring alterations for a proper fit.

    Moreover, low-quality materials and a lack of features make these blinds less effective in providing shade. For example, cheap blackout blinds may fall short of delivering a true blackout effect, allowing unwanted light to filter into bedroom spaces and disrupt your sleep.

    patterned roman window blind in a living roompatterned roman window blind in a living room

    What are the benefits of getting quality made-to-measure blinds?

    If you invest in high quality made-to-measure blinds, from a UK blinds retailer like DotcomBlinds, you’ll notice that your new made-to-measure blinds offer a range of benefits that surpass the allure of off-the-shelf options.

    1. Perfect fit

    Made-to-measure blinds are tailored to the size of your windows, ensuring a flawless fit without the need for alterations. This guarantees a polished look from the moment they are installed.

    2. Useful features

    Ordering blinds made to measure allows you to choose from a variety of fabrics with unique and practical features. You can opt for thick thermal fabrics to enhance energy efficiency, moisture-resistant fabrics for bathrooms, or easy-to-clean fabrics for kitchens.

    3. More style options

    With made-to-measure blinds, the choices are virtually limitless. There are thousands of options in blinds, fabrics, colours, and patterns, enabling you to find the perfect match that complements your style and enhances your home’s decor.

    4. High-quality materials

    Made-to-measure blinds typically utilise superior materials and components compared to their off-the-shelf counterparts. This not only ensures a longer lifespan, but also minimises issues like sagging or frayed fabric, making replacements less frequent.

    5. Warranty

    Unlike the limited warranties that often accompany cheap blinds, made-to-measure blinds from reliable manufacturers usually come with more generous warranties. This guarantee of quality means that if your blind is damaged, the manufacturer will repair or replace it, offering you peace of mind and long-term value for your investment.

    In the quest for home perfection, it’s time to give window blinds the attention they deserve. Choosing quality made-to-measure blinds is not just a style statement; it’s a practical investment that enhances your living space, providing both functionality and aesthetic appeal. So, the next time you’re tempted by off-the-shelf options, consider the enduring benefits that quality window blinds bring to your home.

    [ad_2]

    Catherine

    Source link

  • Using colour psychology to elevate your living room décor – Growing Family

    Using colour psychology to elevate your living room décor – Growing Family

    [ad_1]

    Collaborative post

    Colours are often not as simple as we think they are. They have the inherent power of triggering subconscious emotions. This applies to almost every aspect of life, from clothing to living room décor.

    The colours you choose for your living room do more than just reflect your personal style. They also influence your mood and the atmosphere of the space. Just like having a cosy fireplace can change how your living room feels, colours can have a similar effect. You can even find a bioethanol fireplace here to boost the mood of any room.

    The psychological impact of colour is well-documented in science. When you understand colour psychology, you can create a living room that not only looks beautiful, but feels right, too.

    In this article, we will explore how to choose the perfect colour palette for your living space.

    paint rollers with stripes of coloured paint on a white wall

    Understanding colour psychology

    Colour psychology is the study of colours as a determinant of human behaviour. It plays a crucial role in interior design.

    The colours we surround ourselves with can directly affect our emotions and state of mind. For instance, blue is often associated with serenity and calm, making it a popular choice for bedrooms.

    Red, on the other hand, can evoke feelings of passion and energy, which might be more suited to a dining area or a kitchen.

    When you select a colour scheme for your living room, consider the mood you want to invoke. Is it supposed to be a haven for relaxation, a space for entertaining, or a multi-purpose room?

    modern living room with bold colours and wall artmodern living room with bold colours and wall art

    Choosing your living room colour scheme

    Your living room’s colour scheme should complement its size and natural lighting. You must also consider any furniture and artwork you already have.

    To create a cohesive look, consider the colour wheel and principles of colour harmony. For a calming effect, use colours that are next to each other on the wheel. For a more dynamic space, experts suggest contrasting colours to create visual interest.

    Remember to test your colours in the room itself, as lighting can dramatically alter how a colour appears.

    living room decorated in neutral coloursliving room decorated in neutral colours

    Colours and their impact on living room dynamics

    Colours can also change the perceived dimensions of your living room. Light colours can make a small room feel larger and brighter, while dark hues can bring warmth and intimacy to a larger space.

    On top of that, introducing an accent wall or colourful accessories can add depth and character. If you’re drawn to bold, vibrant colours, consider using them in smaller doses against a backdrop of neutral tones to strike a balance.

    Implementing your colour palette

    Once you’ve chosen your palette, it’s time to bring it to life. Start with the walls, as they offer the largest canvas for your colours.

    Next, select furniture and textiles that complement or thoughtfully contrast with your walls. Remember, it’s not just about the colour itself, but also the textures and finishes you use that will bring the room together.

    Conclusion

    Choosing the right colour palette for your living room is about more than just aesthetics. Colours are impactful enough to influence your mood. It’s about creating a space that resonates with your personality and enhances your quality of life.

    Use the principles of colour psychology as a guide, but don’t be afraid to experiment and let your personal style shine through. After all, the best living room is one that you feel most at home in.

    [ad_2]

    Catherine

    Source link

  • Jinny Blom: An Interview with the Author of 'What Makes a Garden'

    Jinny Blom: An Interview with the Author of 'What Makes a Garden'

    [ad_1]

    The second book from landscape designer Jinny Blom, What Makes a Garden, draws on all aspects of gardens and garden culture. Jinny knows her stuff, has opinions, and sometimes upsets those of her followers on social media who want only loveliness. Having praised the writing of provocateur Julie Burchill (who wrote in her Spectator column, “It’s time to end the rewilding menace”), Jinny was shocked by the viciousness of the response. It seems that some things are off-limits for landscape designers, and one is suggesting to gardeners that their ecological thinking might be fuzzy. Never more in demand, with clients who could choose anybody in the world, Jinny takes time out to talk to us about garden design, and the R-word.

    Photography by Britt Willoughby Dyer, from What Makes a Garden.

    Q: In your latest book you say: “We limit spaces between trees and shrub groups to 650 feet as that is as far as many small birds can fly without having to take cover.” How much do ecological considerations affect the layout of your gardens?

    Above: A garden that Jinny designed for Hauser & Wirth at their hotel the Fife Arms in the Scottish Highlands.

    A: An awful lot. We work very closely with ecology, and detailed information like this determines much of what we do. We just amalgamate the information into our designs rather than having it displayed only as the science.

    Q: Does the term “pleasure garden” still have currency today?

    Above: A reconfigured garden (and estate) in the Cotswolds, England.

    A: I don’t know, because I’m not sure what’s happened to pleasure—we’re living in grumpy times. I personally feel that gardens are places for pleasure, which I would define as the sort of freedom that you get from being outside—not signaling every move and every action—but just sort of being. My sense is that the old meaning was just that: in the Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens [which had their heyday in 18th and early 19th century London], you would be strolling around—pleasurably dressed, with pleasurable friends doing pleasurable things in a pleasurable place. Pleasure was the whole purpose.

    Q: Do you find that more and more people are still getting switched on to gardening, even post-pandemic?

    Above: An English country garden, designed by Jinny Blom.

    A: Definitely. Because here’s the crux of it: If you actually go outside and do it, your feelings and your responses to nature and gardening change very quickly. If you’re a kind of armchair warrior, then that’s something different. But really gardening—everybody I know who does it finds so much pleasure and excitement in it. The great optimism is giving people access to their own little patch of earth to mess around with; I think it’s very important.

    Q: “Rewilding” means different things to different people. What in your view are the good bits?

    Above: Steps into the garden at the Fife Arms, Braemar, Scotland.

    A: I don’t see it as a big political thing, another cause for rage. It’s been going on for a very long time—people naturalizing areas or enjoying a naturalized area, except that it would be gardened and cared for; it would be ‘kempt,’ rather than unkempt. Anybody with a patch of land (I do it myself in my tiny garden) could have a patch of long grass with things growing in it. It’s not something you’re fiddling with all the time, it performs in a different way, and it gives a different kind of pleasure to look at. And then, five feet to the left, there might be quite a well-attended border, which is doing something else. So really, it’s about the pleasure of diversity in gardens. Anything that’s going to engender more habitat or more diversity for other creatures is definitely part of where most gardeners are coming from.

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • July in Tingshu’s Back Garden – FineGardening

    July in Tingshu’s Back Garden – FineGardening

    [ad_1]

    We’re back in Massachusetts today, visiting Tingshu Hu’s garden. We saw her front garden in July yesterday, and today we’re moving to the back garden in high summer.

    Early morning sun shines on the fish pond after a day of heavy rain. ‘Blue Spruce’ sedum (Sedum reflexum ‘Blue Spruce’, Zones 4–9) with yellow flower stems rise alongside the pink coral bell flowers (Heuchera hybrid, Zones 4–9). A frog sits on top of a lily pad.

    close up of garden pond and plants growing on waterAlong with the water lily (Nymphaea sp.) flowers, you can see at least two frogs in the pond if you look closely.

    view into the garden with orange flowers in foreground and pergola covered in pink flowers in backgroundOrange daylily (Hemerocallis fulva, Zones 4–9) blooming in the front. The pergola is covered with Clematis flowers.

    close up of garden with bright pink flowers in foreground and orange flowers in backgroundLooking from behind the pergola, you can see clematis flowers on the left, and rose campion (Lychnis coronaria, Zones 4–8) and white hollyhock (Alcea rosea, Zones 2 –10) in the front. There are more blooms of the orange daylily in the back.

    small brick patio surrounded by dense garden bedsPenstemon (Penstemon digitalis, Zones 3–8) and delphinium (Delphinium elatum, Zones 3–7) in the center continued to flower since late June. In July the daylily’s orange flowers and smooth hydrangea‘s white flowers (Hydrangea arborescens, Zones 3–9) joined the show. On the pergola are pink-white flowers of Rosa ‘New Dawn’ (Zones 5–11).

    close up of bright pink, purple and yellow flowers growing in front of a fenceRose campion, Rosa ‘Don Juan’ (Zones 5–9), astilbe (Astilbe chinensis, Zones 4–8), and daylily (Hemerocallis ‘Stella De Oro’, Zones 3–10)

    pergola on side of house with small seating area and lots of plantsLooking across the grape pergola, you can see Rosa ‘Don Juan’, rose campion, astilbe, and daylily on the right side, with smooth hydrangea’s white flowers on the other end.

    close up of garden bed with colorful foliage and orange flowers in the backgroundCordyline ‘Red Sister’ (Zones 9–11) is in the front, with daylily and smooth hydrangea flowering farther away.

    backyard garden with orange flowers and lots of foliage plantsCanna ‘Striata’ (Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb) stands tall. To the left of it are the very fragrant flowers of Lilium ‘Yelloween’ (Zones 4–9).

    wide view of back garden with bright flowers and foliageCanna leaves in the morning sunshine provide a background for the flowers of the purple dahlia (Dahlia variabilis, Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb).

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

    [ad_2]

    GPOD Contributor

    Source link

  • Houseplants for Intermediate Skill Levels – Farmside Landscape & Design

    Houseplants for Intermediate Skill Levels – Farmside Landscape & Design

    [ad_1]

    Whether your confidence level tending to houseplants has advanced from novice to (somewhat) experienced or your lifestyle requires your plants to be a bit more adaptable (i.e., able to withstand some flexibility in care level) then the following plants are worth exploring:

     

    Foliage Plants

     

    Jade plant (Crassula ovata) – Jade plants are a popular house succulent, due to their ability to adapt to the warm, dry conditions found in most homes’ interiors. The plant thrives in bright, indirect light and when kept properly watered during the primary growing seasons of spring and summer, and a bit drier during the dormant seasons of fall and winter. Because they are susceptible to root rot, it’s helpful to let the soil dry out between waterings even during the warmer growing season months. Fertilize once a month. The Jade Plant can be incredibly long-lived – from 50-100 years. Toxicity is mild, so the plant is generally safe around children and pets.

     

    Swiss Cheese Plant (Monstera Delicioso) – The plant gets its common name from its leaf openings or holes called fenestrations. Young leaves may have no holes, developing them as the leaf matures. As the leaf continues to grow, the holes move towards the edge of the leaf, eventually splitting the leaf, lending the plant a wonderful architectural quality of interesting holes and shapes. The plant thrives in bright to medium indirect light. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings which should be every 1-2 weeks. (Tip: Monsteras do best with filtered water or water left out overnight before using.) The plant appreciates a bit of humidity, so misting is recommended and temperatures no lower than 60oF. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

     

    Flowering Plants

     

    Lipstick Vine (Aeschynanthus radicans) – Lush greenery, abundant, brilliant blooms and easy care make this a must-have houseplant. As a vine, this plant looks stunning in a hanging basket allowing the flowers to cascade. Ideal conditions include ample bright, indirect light, moist but not over-saturated soil (avoid potting soils that include water-retaining crystals since they can keep roots too wet) and warmer house temperatures (65-75 degrees). Lipstick Vine is very sensitive to drafts and fluctuating temperatures, so avoid placing the plant by drafty windows, heating/cooling vents, and exterior doors. Non-toxic to children and pets.

     

    Begonia (Rex begonia) – Begonias offer a wide variety of options when it comes to leaf form, flowers, color and overall shape. Rex begonia is a type that grows well as a houseplant with minimal care needed. Although begonias grown outside are considered shade plants, those grown indoors still need ample bright, indirect light to thrive. While begonias are moisture-loving, pooled water will quickly cause root-rot, so make sure your container has good drainage. Begonias like to be fed, so every other week during the growing season, feed them half-strength fertilizer. Begonias can be susceptible to pests, so check leaves (especially undersides and where they join stems) to ensure spider mites and aphids aren’t hiding out. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

     

    Petite Orchid (Phalaenopsis) – Before you panic at the mere thought of caring for an orchid, this variety is known as the “beginner’s orchid” for its easy care. With its leafy stems and long-lasting flowers, this plant does best in a bright, warm, humid spot and will typically bloom about once a year, for up to three months. After a blooming cycle, the flowers will wilt and fall off, as the plant stores up energy to re-bloom again next season. These orchids come in a variety of colors and are safe around children and pets.

    [ad_2]

    Farmside

    Source link

  • A Guide to Planting Gaillardia

    A Guide to Planting Gaillardia

    [ad_1]

    Commemorating M. Gaillard de Marentonneau, a French patron of botany (Compositae). Blanket flower. A small genus of annuals and perennials, natives of America, with a long flowering period, useful for cut flowers. Somewhat untidy in habit, the long stalks fall about in wind and rain. Gaillardias need some twiggy stakes to help to keep the flowers clean and in full view.

    Annual species cultivated

    • G. amblyodon, 2-3 feet, maroon-red flowers, autumn.
    • G. pulchella, 2-3 feet, crimson and yellow flowers, late summer and autumn, best treated as a half-hardy annual; vars. brenziana, double flowers in reds and yellows ; picta, larger flower-heads. `Indian Chief’ with coppery-scarlet flowers is a named cultivar. In addition seedsmen usually offer mixed annual types under such names as ‘Choice Double Mixed’, `Special Mixture’, and ‘Double Fireball’.

    Perennial species cultivated

    All garden varieties originate from G. aristata (syn. G. grandiflora) and comprise a great range of colour from pale primrose-yellow to crimson and bold orange, all flowering from June to October. Named cultivars include ‘Burgundy’, 2 feet, rich wine red with a narrow yellow frill along the outer edges of the petals; ‘Copper Beauty’, 2 feet, smaller flowers of orange-yellow suffused with brown; ‘Dazzler’, 2 feet, yellow with brown-red central zone; ‘Fire-bird’, 2 feet, a vigorous variety with flame-orange flowers; ‘Goblin’, 1 foot, dwarf, yellow with red zone; `Ipswich Beauty’, 2-3 feet, large deep yellow flowers touched with reddish-brown ; `Monarch Strain’, 2 feet, mixed colours; ‘Nana Nieski’, 1-1 1/2 feet, red and yellow flowers on shorter stems; `The Prince’, 2 feet, very large flowers up to 4 inches across, deep yellow tinged reddish-brown at the centre; `Tokaj’, 2 feet, wine-red and tangerine; `Wirral Flame’, 2 feet, a strong growing variety, tangerine flowers tipped yellow; `Yellow Queen’, 2 feet, golden-yellow.

    Cultivation

    A sunny border in a moderately light soil is ideal and the drainage should be good. The annual kinds are raised from seed sown in March in gentle heat and gradually hardened off and planted in the border in late May to flower for the remainder of the season.

    Twiggy stakes are needed for good effects, and bold planting repays in garden decoration. The perennial kinds prefer drier soils. Autumn and winter damp is their enemy, and if they do not survive, it is probably because of dampness. On the other hand, a sun-baked soil stunts the plants, so a mulch of leaf-mould or decayed manure in summer is helpful. Liquid feeds can be given to good advantage when the plants are coming into flower. Named varieties are best propagated from root cuttings taken at any time between February and April and put in a sandy box in the frame or A greenhouse. Those that are taken early and do well may flower the first year.

    Alternatively, basal cuttings taken from August to October, put into a sandy compost in a cold frame or under a cloche will soon get away. The plants can be divided in either October or March and any roots left in the ground at this time will sprout again.


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    [ad_2]

    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • 15 of the Best Smelling and Fragrant flowers

    15 of the Best Smelling and Fragrant flowers

    [ad_1]

    Fragrance in flowers is such a desirable attribute that it’s a perennial complaint of many gardeners that modern varieties of various plants, particularly roses, lack all or most of the fragrance of the older varieties. This is demonstrably untrue of many varieties, of course, yet there is a good deal of truth in the generalization. Some varieties are certainly much less fragrant than the ‘old-fashioned’ roses and a few seem to lack detectable fragrance, but, on the whole, a good modern variety will number fragrance among its qualities. Much depends, of course, upon the individual sense of smell, coupled with the ‘scent memory’ which all of us possess to some degree. It is, in fact, usually well developed and most of us are readily and instantaneously reminded by present scents of past incidents, places, and persons, and although the actual vocabulary of scent is limited, it is usually possible for us to describe a scent fairly accurately by comparing it with another. Thus it is quite usual for us to say that a flower has a lily-like fragrance, or that it smells like new-mown hay.

    In general, it is true to say that, although the modern roses may be fragrant, the fragrance is lighter than that associated with the ‘old-fashioned’ varieties, which have returned to popularity in recent years, partly because of the rich, heavy fragrance of their blooms, Few gardens are too small to accommodate one or two of these; they may not have the perfectly-shaped blooms associated with the present-day hybrid tea varieties, but around midsummer, and with some kinds, until late in the season, they will fill the garden with the true rose scent which, like all scents, is difficult to describe precisely, but is unmistakable when it is found.

    Just as distinctive is the true ‘clove’ fragrance of carnations. It is not, alas, found in every variety and sometimes those with the most shapely blooms lack fragrance entirely. The gardener in search of the clove scent will ‘ignore these in favor of such varieties as `Dusky’, ‘Ice Queen’ and ‘Oakfield Clove’ which possess it very strongly. It is also found in the ‘Sweetness’ hybrids, often treated as annuals, grown from seed sown in the spring, and producing single flowers in a good color range.

    It is usually possible to find a corner in which to plant a clump of lilies. But, again, it pays to be careful about the choice of species and varieties, for not all are fragrant, and some, such as the Turk’s cap lily, Lilium martragon, have a decidedly unpleasant scent. Even among fragrant types there is a great range of intensity of scent. Among those with the strongest and sweetest fragrance are the regal lily (Lilium regale), the madonna lily (Lilium candidum), the golden-rayed lily of Japan (Lilium auratum), usually obtainable in its hardier form, platyphyllum, L. henryi, and such hybrids as ‘Crow’s Hybrids’ and L. x testaceum.

    Because they are more permanent than other plants, and need considerably less attention, flowering shrubs are becoming more and more popular. Where space is fairly limited it is worth while choosing some of those with fragrant flowers. There are plenty of them, blooming at various times of the year. Among those flowering in winter are such fine shrubs as <em>Hamamelis mollis, the wych hazel, with its yellow, cowslip-scented flowers. Mahonia japonica, its yellow flowers strongly fragrant, reminiscent of lily-ofthe-valley, the sweetly fragrant white Viburnum fragrans and V. tinus, the old-fashioned but still excellent laurustinus. These are followed in spring by the native Daphne mezereum, the lilac-purple flowers of which are thickly clustered along the leafless twigs, the honey-scented, yellow azalea, Rhododendron luteum, the double gorse, Ulex europaeus plenus, its golden flowers filling the air with the scent of vanilla, other viburnums including V. x burkwoodii and V. carlesii and the wisterias. Late spring brings the white flowers of Choisya ternata, the Mexican orange blossom and the lilacs with their refreshing, unmistakable fragrance. These are soon followed by the mock oranges or philadelphus, their fresh, sweet scent of orange blossom, bringing in early summer, more powerful than that of the choisya. It pays to choose these with care for not all are fragrant and the intensity of fragrance varies. Among those with the strongest scent are the common P. coronarius, P. delavayi, the hybrid P. x lemoinei and the double-flowered ‘Virginal’.

    Summer is the time for roses and these have already been discussed. But there are several other fine fragrant shrubs flowering at this time. The sweet jessamine, Jasminum officinale, trained against a wall will bring its delicious fragrance through open windows, lavenders seem to give off their fragrance best on hot summer days, the spikes of buddleias attract the butterflies. Their fragrance is not to everyone’s liking, but can scarcely be classed as objectionable. The white or yellow flowers of the tree lupin, Lupinus arboreus are borne for most of the summer, as are the rich yellow pea blooms of the Spanish broom, Spartium junceum.

    The climbing honeysuckles come into flower in summer but carry the season on well into the autumn. Again, not all are fragrant but those that are include the late Dutch honeysuckle, Lonicera periclymenum serotina, which is usually still producing its reddish-purple flowers in October. Late flowers will still be found on the buddleias, on Spartium junceum and, of course, on the roses. Both Choisya ternata and the double gorse will often produce a second crop of flowers at this time of year and it is not unusual to find early flowers on the laurustinus, the first of the many clusters which will be produced between late October and April.

    There is not the same wide range of fragrance among hardy herbaceous perennials, nor is it spread over so long a period. But it is worth remembering that among the tall bearded or flag irises are a good many fragrant varieties, some with a lily-like scent, others defying identification but delicious, nevertheless. A good catalogue should be consulted as new kinds are constantly being introduced. Other perennials which have flowers more or less fragrant include the sweet rocket, Hesperis matronalis, Paeonia, especially the old cottage garden paeonias, varieties of P. officinalis, border phloxes, Astrantia carinthiaca fragrant, of all things, of marzipan, the perennial wallflower, Cheiranthus Harpur Crewe’, the herbaceous clematis, C. recta, the border pinks and carnations, not all with the `clove’ scent described earlier, nepetas or catmints, perhaps more accurately described as aromatic rather than fragrant, some evening primroses (oenotheras), Petasites fragrans, the winter heliotrope, its purple or white flowers borne in February, smelling attractively of vanilla, but a plant to be used with caution as it can spread so rapidly and, for this reason, to be confined to banks and rough places, where it can do little damage. Among the primulas there are a number which qualify, including the alpine auriculas, the dwarf P. involucrata, the somewhat taller P. alpicola, P. chionantha and P. nutans. Salvia sclarea, the Clary, is pleasantly aromatic, especially on hot, sunny days, Saponaria officinalis roseo-plena, a double form of a native plant, sometimes known as Bouncing Bet, has fragrant pink flowers and, of course, many varieties of Viola odorata, the florist’s violets, are exceptionally sweetly scented.

    Those in search of fragrance are more likely to find it among the annuals and biennials and perennials treated as such, than among the hardy perennials for it is a quality possessed by many of the plants that are raised from seed sown in the spring, either under glass or in the open ground (see Annuals). Of these undoubtedly the most popular are the delightfully fragrant sweet peas, varieties of Lathyrus odoratus. As with other plants the fragrance varies a good deal but a good seedsman’s list will make a point of describing those which possess it more strongly than others. Among other annuals and biennials which have it are sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima), wallflowers (cheiranthus). snapdragons (antirrhinums), ten-week Brompton and East Lothian stocks (Matthiola incana), night-scented stock (Matthiola bicornis), marigolds (calendulas), nasturtiums (tropaeolums), mignonette (Reseda odorata), sweet sultan (Centaurea moschata), the sweet-scented tobacco plant (nicotiana), sweet scabious (Scabiosa atropurpurea), annual lupins and the biennia] evening primrose (Oenothera odorata). All these are popular with most gardeners, but less well known, perhaps, is the Marvel of Peru (Mirabilis jalapa), a half-hardy annual with small trumpet-shaped flowers in various colors, their fragrance identical with that of the sweet-scented tobacco plant. Cleome spinosa, the spider flower is another less common annual, 1m (3ft) or so tall, with spidery-petalled pink or white flowers which add fragrance to their other attractions. Unusual, too, is Calonyction aculeatum, the moon flower, its great white trumpets opening at night. In warm places it is possible to grow this out of doors against a protected south or west wall, otherwise it needs conservatory or greenhouse treatment.

    Taking them as a group, the bulbous plants include a good many fragrant plants, most of them fairly well known. Among the narcissus the scent range is very wide, from the pleasing fresh fragrance of many of the trumpet narcissus, to the heavy, sickly, almost overpowering scent of the jonquils. Few gardeners would consider tulips to be among the fragrant bulbs, although such varieties as ‘Bellona’, ‘Prince Carnival’ and ‘Yellow Prince’, all early singles and `Orange Favourite’, a parrot tulip, have a certain amount of fragrance. The strong but pleasing fragrance of hyacinths is one of the qualities which make them so popular for early forcing in bowls; a few spikes can fill the room when in flower. Lilies have been dealt with earlier in this article ; but mention should be made of the plant which used to be called Lilium giganteum, but which is now correctly known as Cardiocrinum giganteum, which may reach 2.5-3m (8-10ft) and bears large trumpet-shaped flowers, heavily and almost intoxicatingly fragrant, although one almost needs a ladder to appreciate it properly unless the spikes are cut and brought indoors, when they will last a fair time in water.

    There are also some fragrant greenhouse bulbs and it is certainly easier to appreciate their fragrance in such close confines than it is in the open air. Freesias, for instance, grown in pots, as they usually are, distil an indescribably sweet fragrance. Tuberoses (Polianthes tuberosa) are not grown as often as they were years ago, but the bulbs, or rather tubers, are obtainable from specialist suppliers and are well worth growing for the sake of the wonderful scent of the flowers in autumn and winter. Many specialists even offer tuberose bulbs for sale online, making it even easier to get started with great flowers.

    There are other greenhouse plants notable for their fragrance. Here, perhaps, is the place to bring in the lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis) because it is so easily forced in boxes, or grown in pots, either for greenhouse use or for bringing into the living room when the plants are in flower. They can, of course, equally well be grown out of doors, particularly in a shady moist spot just as various other hardy fragrant plants such as Brompton stocks, lilacs, narcissus and lilies of various kinds, may either be grown outside or in pots in the greenhouse, usually flowering a little earlier, even when very little heat is available. Where more heat is available in winter it is possible to grow such fragrant flowers as stephanotis, acacias (usually miscalled mimosa), carnations, bouvardias, the little annual Exacum affine, gardenias, Hoya carnosa, Jasminum polyanthum and other tender jasmines, the jasmine-scented Trachelospermum jasminoides, the lily-scented Datura arborea as well as many others.


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    [ad_2]

    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • Growing Guide for Helianthemum – Backyard Gardener

    Growing Guide for Helianthemum – Backyard Gardener

    [ad_1]

    How to grow Helianthemum

    From the Greek helios, the sun, and anthemon. a flower (Cistaceae). Sun Rose. A genus of evergreen and semi-evergreen shrubs, sub-shrubs, perennial plants and annuals, very free flowering. Numerous named varieties and hybrids are grown and four species are native plants.

    Species cultivated

    • H. alpestre, 1 foot, a tufted alpine, yellow flowers, summer, European• alps.
    • H. apenninum, 1 foot, spreading plant, grey leaves, white flowers, June, short-lived sub-shrub, Europe, southwest England and Asia Minor.
    • H. lunulatum, 6-9 inches, sub‑shrub, yellow, summer, Italy.
    • H. nummulariurn (syn. H. vulgare, H. chamaecistus), common sun rose, 6-12 inches trailing, yellow, June, July, Europe (including England). There are many cultivars including ‘Beech Park Scarlet’, ‘Ben Attow’, primrose yellow, deeper centre ; ‘Ben Hope’, ,carmine shading to orange; ‘Ben Ledi’, dark red; ‘Butterball’, clear yellow, double; ‘Jubilee’, double yellow; `Lemon Queen’, lemon yellow; ‘Mrs C. W. Earle’, scarlet, double; ‘Rose of Lees-wood’, rich pink, large double; ‘The Bride’, white; ‘Watergate Rose’, deep carmine, foliage grey-green; Wisley Pink’, clear pink.
    • H. tuberaria, 9 inches, herbaceous perennial forming tufts of brownish leaves with yellow flowers, July, south Europe.

    Cultivation

    As the name implies, a sunny spot is essential for the sun roses. Ordinary soil is suitable and they are excellent plants for dry walls, rock gardens and sunny banks. Most are not very long-lived and need replacing in preference to cutting hard back to encourage new growth. Propagate from cuttings of young shoots in July or August, inserted in sandy compost. Once these are rooted they should be potted singly into small pots and over-wintered thus. Because they do not transplant well, it is common practice to put them into their permanent positions from these pots, planting out in April.

    Helianthemum (hel-ee-an-them-um)


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    [ad_2]

    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • Vinca, A Hillside Groundcover

    Vinca, A Hillside Groundcover

    [ad_1]

    Vinca minor is, as my father used to say, neat but not gaudy. Sometimes known as periwinkle or myrtle, this creeping perennial appears everywhere. Like a good soldier, vinca hits the ground running, and does its task efficiently, even under adverse conditions. Parts of the suburbs are virtually upholstered with it, but you can even find this undemanding evergreen stalwart keeping vigil among neglected monuments in long-abandoned cemeteries.

    In fact, vinca is so totally reliable that it is usually damned with faint praise. People take its handsome, 1-inch oval leaves and purplish-blue flowers for granted. This may be partly because it blooms in the spring, and showier blossoms such as tulips, daffodils and giant blowsy hyacinths steal its thunder. In the great horticultural beauty pageant, vinca might win “Miss Congeniality,” but is neither statuesque nor voluptuous enough to walk away with the crown.

    Novice gardeners trying to find something to grow in the shade are often directed to seek out vinca in that lonely section at the rear of the garden center where groundcovers dwell. If they are not careful, they stop before they get there and end up buying a flat or two of annual vinca (Catharanthus rosea, also known as Madagascar rosy periwinkle). Annual vinca is lovely, with dark green shiny leaves and diminutive flowers ranging from white to rose to purple. It is an excellent bedding plant in its own right, but, unlike Vinca minor, it grows best in full sun. Annual vinca may not perish under the great oak in the front yard, but it will probably languish in flowerless distress.

    Our ancestors, who decorated their yards and cemetery plots with vinca grown from cuttings, had fewer sources of beauty and probably appreciated the plant more. Now, when we have all become jaded by such everyday marvels as green catsup and blue potatoes, it is easy to overlook vinca.

    But this does not have to be so. With only a bit more effort than it takes to get to the back of the garden center, you can obtain a double handful of attractive and unusual varieties of vinca. If you like the traditional periwinkle-colored vinca blossoms, try the ‘Bowles Blue’, ‘Ralph Shugert’ or ‘Sterling Silver’ varieties. The two latter types also sport variegated foliage to help light up dark places. Every once in a while I notice a plot where someone has planted either Vinca minor ‘Atropurpurea’ or ‘Double Purple’. Both of these have wine-colored blossoms, and ‘Double Purple’ has, as the name suggests, an extra set of petals for good measure.

    It is always pleasant to have something white in shady corners. Two varieties, Vinca minor ‘Alba’ and ‘Miss Jekyll’, a dwarf cultivar named after the great English gardener, fill the bill.

    Hybridizers have also experimented with different shades of variegated foliage. ‘Valley Glow’ has white flowers, yellow stems, and leaves with gold variegation. ‘Golden’ has the same felicitous combination. If you prefer traditional blue blossoms with your variegated gold and green foliage, then ‘Blue & Gold’ will delight you.

    As everyone knows, vinca spreads where it is happy. If you already have a stand of the garden variety vinca somewhere on your property, you can spread it around by digging up rooted clumps and replanting them in the desired area. Water well for a few weeks, and the new vinca patch will begin to take off, even if it dwells in perpetual twilight under an enormous blue spruce, as some of my vinca once did.

    Fall is as good a time as any to plant ground covers. In the Northeast it is wise to do it in September or early October, well before the first frost date. In fact, transform yourself into an accomplished multi-tasker and plant the vinca while you are putting in spring bulbs. That way you will not have to suffer the agony of naked fading bulb foliage next May and June. The vinca will be ready and willing to fix the problem for you.

    Local garden centers usually carry ordinary vinca plus the occasional ‘Bowles Blue’ and sometimes one of the common variegated varieties. The major catalogs have similar offerings. If you are looking for the more unusual variegated varieties, or those with white or dark purple flowers, go to Oregon Trail Groundcovers, P.O. Box 601, 9080 S. Good Lane, Canby, Oregon, 97013; tel. 503/263-4688; FAX 503/266-9832; also online at www.galyeannursery.com. Oregon Trail will sell you rooted plants in lots of either 50 or 100. If you don’t need that many, find a friend or neighbor who will split the order with you. That way you can share the distinction of being the first in your neighborhood to set the neighbors’ tongues wagging about your gorgeous new groundcover.
    VINCA VARIETIES
    Contact Elisabeth Ginsburg

    Yellow Rose
    SWORD LILIES
    CHANGE IN THE GARDEN
    UNFORGETTABLE
    FRESH VEGGIES

    [ad_2]

    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • Have your water and garden – Backyard Gardener

    Have your water and garden – Backyard Gardener

    [ad_1]

    Lately, it seems like every time you turn on the local weather forecast, the meteorologist is talking about drought conditions. If you are in a severely affected area, or under water restrictions, this doesn’t mean you have to give up gardening. By following some drought-wise garden water tips, you can have your water, and your garden, too.

    You may have come across the term “xeriscaping” (pronounced zer-a-scap-ing), referring to dry climate gardening. Many people associate this term with deserts, cacti, and succulent plants. But with dry climates in much of the country now, this term means much more and definitely does not mean “zero-landscaping.”

    This spring about one-third of the country is experiencing some level of drought conditions with about one-third of the country in a drought watch area. Some states and many counties, including all 14 counties in Vermont, were made eligible for emergency farm drought aid this spring. Some mid-Atlantic states imposed water restrictions earlier this year.

    To keep up with current drought conditions through articles, links, and maps, visit online the National Drought Mitigation Center (www.enso.unl.edu/ndmc/watch/watch.htm).
    The University of Massachusetts has a website just for drought information for New England (www.UmassDroughtInfo.org)

    So how can you save or recycle water, or use less?

    Watering

    –If you have water restrictions in your area or town, find out what they cover. If drought conditions aren’t too severe, they may just cover use of lawn sprinklers and not watering of gardens.

    –Water in the early morning, when there is less heat and wind, so less water is lost to evaporation. Timers on automatic watering systems make watering very early much easier.

    –Don’t use overhead sprinklers, which may lose over half the water to evaporation on a hot day. Instead use manual watering, soaker hoses, or drip systems. Soaker hoses are simply permeable hoses, often made of recycled materials, which allow water to soak through them slowly. Placed on beds near plants, they provide a slow trickle of water to the root zone. If you cover these hoses with mulch, they lose even less water to the air and are invisible.

    –Water deeply and less often rather than for shorter periods more often. This allows water to penetrate deeper, and thus encourages deeper roots that are more resistant to drought. Lawns and bedding plants should be watered to at least six inches deep. Perennials, shrubs and trees should be watered to at least 12 inches deep. Use a rain gauge to check the amount of water from your sprinkler or rainfall. These are available from garden and hardware stores. One inch of water will wet a sandy soil to a depth of about 12 inches.

    –Water established plants only if really needed and once they begin to wilt. Many perennials and woody plants may wilt, and not perform best if dry, but will survive. This is especially true if they were healthy and well watered prior to drought conditions. Only a few perennials such as false spirea (Astilbe) have leaves that turn brown and don’t recover if dry, but have to generate new leaves.

    Collecting, Saving Water

    –Repair leaks in hoses and fittings. This may be as simple as replacing the washers in hose fittings. A slow leak of one drip per second can lose nine gallons of water a day, 260 gallons a month. A faster leak, filling an eight-ounce cup in eight seconds, wastes 675 gallons a day, or 20,000 gallons a month!

    –Collect wasted and “gray” water from your household. The latter is rinse water from dishwashers and from washing dishes. When adjusting the hot and cold in baths and showers, use a bucket to collect the water that would normally go down the drain before the temperature is adjusted. You also can collect and reuse water from dehumidifiers or window air conditioners.

    –Collect water from downspouts of gutters, or divert these directly into flowerbeds.

    Other areas to consider in the landscape for conserving water are in the proper use of cultural practices, containers, and responsible lawn care.

    By Dr. Leonard Perry
    Extension Greenhouse and Nursery Crops Specialist
    University of Vermont


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    [ad_2]

    Dr. Leonard Perry

    Source link

  • Growing Guide for Helenium

    Growing Guide for Helenium

    [ad_1]

    After Helen of Troy ; according to legend the flowers sprang from her tears (Compositae). Sneezeweed. Hardy herbaceous perennials from North America, good for cutting and popularly grown for their late summer flowers. The disc of the flower head is very prominent, a characteristic of the entire genus. Species cultivated Cultivation Almost any garden soil is suitable, but a stiff […]

    [ad_2]

    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • SHOE FLIES AND CHINESE LANTERNS – Gardening – Backyard Gardener

    SHOE FLIES AND CHINESE LANTERNS – Gardening – Backyard Gardener

    [ad_1]

    chinese lanterns in the gardenchinese lanterns in the gardenThe catalogs are a little slimmer this year, but they are still full of the hope and glory of spring and summer. Flowers, vegetables, fruits and herbs burst forth from the pages, each better than last year, allegedly foolproof and free-flowering, requiring little or no maintenance and a great return on investment. It all goes to show that gardeners are more optimistic than Detroit Lions or Chicago Cubs fans. They are more optimistic than Californians who live on fault lines and Buffalonians who think they can get one more year out of the old snowblower. They are, in short, the most optimistic people in the world. I am pleased to be one of them.

    This year, when gardeners look at plant and seed catalogs, I think they will be inclined to go for the safe and familiar. After all,  even optimists need a sense of security. It will probably be a banner year for roses of all kinds, with reds selling well. The ongoing vogue for cottage flowers will probably continue to be strong. In fact, the wildest thing many people will invest in come spring will be a few of the more bizarre coleus cultivars.

    With that in mind, I have decided that this year I need to make a conscious effort to select at least a few plants that are new to me or new to cultivation. Fortunately the catalog vendors will never completely abandon the new and different. They are optimists too, knowing that last year’s unknown plant may be next year’s big seller. As the late Diana Vreeland might have said, angelonia may become the new coleus.

    If you are a Southerner, or even page through Southern Living magazine from time to time, you may have heard of something called “Shoe-Fly Plant”. This annual, correctly known as Nicandra physalodes, is a native of Peru, and also goes by “Apple of Peru”. This year Select Seeds has a cultivar called ‘Splash of Cream’, that has variegated foliage and bright blue flowers, the latter somewhat reminiscent of small morning glories. The flowers of Nicandra close up as the day progresses, so it is helpful to position the plants in a place where you will see them in the morning. Apple of Peru is a fairly tall (3-5-feet) sun lover, and so vigorous in the South that it has often escaped gardens, gotten accustomed to life on the street, and lowered itself to weed status. If ‘Splash of Cream’ is like other variegated plants, I suspect it will be a little less hardy than its plain-leafed cousins. Such a trait might make it a bit more neighborly in the average garden.

    It would be easier to hold back the Mississippi at flood stage than to curb the current Coreopsis vogue. From the looks of the catalogs, some breeder in Germany is attempting to take over the horticultural world by inundating it with Coreopsis hybrids. Unable to swim against that tide, I have decided to install Coreopsis tinctoria ‘Dwarf Radiata’ in one of my beds. This species, commonly known as Calliopsis ‘Tiger Stripe’, looks a bit like a small, unrefined Gaillardia daisy, with petals that are golden yellow on the ends and burgundy red towards the dark red center of the flower. Though new to me, it is an antique variety, first described in 1823. Like many Coreopsis, it is a front to mid-border plant, rising to one-foot in height. The foliage is grass-like, and the flowers appear repeatedly through the growing season.

    Most people have more shade than they think they want, except when summer temperatures reach 90° and above. Among the unusual new shade plants is Roscoea purpurea, a Himalayan native. Roscoea grows from a rhizome and has lance-shaped leaves. The flowers look, according to the catalog, like “small mauve orchids”, and are produced “prolifically” on 16-18-inch stems. The catalog vendor advises heavy mulching in the fall to protect the rhizomes.

    My only concern about Roscoea is that with the exception of a few acres in New Hampshire and a few more in the Pacific Northwest, no growing zone in the United States has a climate that resembles that of the Himalayas. This is what makes it so difficult for ordinary gardeners to grow the legendary blue poppy (Meconopsis betonicifolia). Perhaps Roscoea is more adaptable.

    Sandersonia aurantia is also known as Christmas Bells or Chinese Lanterns. Though this plant has balloon-like orange flowers, it is not to be confused with the more common Chinese lanterns (Physalis alkekengi). The main difference between the blossoms of the two plants is that while the common variety has closed flowers, Sandersonia flowers are open on the ends, and look more like small orange chefs’ toques than lanterns. Given the color and shape, “Halloween Bells” might be a better nickname. Sandersonia is grown from a tuber and must be lifted in the winter. Still, the plant makes a bright statement, offering a two-foot tall respite from the ubiquitous garden pastels. The leaves resemble those of Asiatic lilies, and, depending on where you put it, the plant may need staking.

    For a little something different next spring and summer, be a real optimist and pick a few plants that are new to you. You can obtain Nicandra physalodes ‘Splash of Cream’ seeds or plants and Coreopsis tinctoria ‘Dwarf Radiata’ seeds from Select Seeds, 180 Stickney Hill Road, Union, CT 06076, tel. (860) 684-9310, online at www.selectseeds.com. Order Roscoea purpurea rhizomes and Sandersonia aurantia tubers from Dutch Gardens, P.O. Box 2037, Lakewood, NJ 08701, tel. (800) 818-3861, online at www.dutchgardens.com.

    PressHere!
    Yellow Rose
    SWORD LILIES
    CHANGE IN THE GARDEN
    UNFORGETTABLE
    FRESH VEGGIES


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    [ad_2]

    Elizabeth Ginsberg

    Source link

  • Plumbago Passion – Backyard Gardener

    Plumbago Passion – Backyard Gardener

    [ad_1]

    I am very prone to love at first sight. In fact, it happened just last week. I saw a tall southerner “across a crowded room”, as the song says. My heart stood still (as another song says). I was enraptured.

    The tall stranger was plumbago (Plumbago auriculata, also known as Plumbago capensis), which is sometimes also known by its extremely unromantic common name, leadwort. I had my rhapsodic moment at Duke Gardens, the glass-enclosed horticultural pleasure ground created by the late heiress, Doris Duke, on her Somerville, New Jersey estate.

    Duke Gardens is divided into a series of “rooms”, each representing the horticultural traditions and typical plant materials of a specific region. The divine plumbago was clambering up a trellised wall in the “Southern Colonial Garden”. There may have been little actual shadow in the room, but with its hundreds of blue phlox-like flowers, the plumbago put many of its neighbors in the shade. From a distance, the vigorous climber looked like a billowing blue cloud that all but subsumed the trellis over which it hovered. I knew then and there that I wanted a plumbago of my own.

    Returning for a moment to reality, I heard the tour guide say that plumbago grows wild in the American south. This remark gave me the kind of palpitations that infatuated people always get when they encounter bumps on the road to true love. Despite the effects of global warming, the American South and northern New Jersey do not yet share the same climate. My plumbago could live outside in the summer, but would obviously need special accommodations during the gray, depressing New Jersey winter.

    Some things in life are not fair. Doris Duke had enough money to dazzle two legged playboys like the notorious mid-century Lothario, Porfirio Rubirosa, and to indulge the needs of long stemmed playboys like Plumbago auriculata. She also had acres of greenhouses. I, on the other hand, have a sunny dining room window. Obviously any relationship that I might possibly have with plumbago would require some effort on my part.

    While trying to figure out these arrangements, I decided to inquire into plumbago’s background. As its alternate botanical name (capensis) indicates, plumbago is native to South Africa. Left to its own devices, the plant forms mounds 5-feet high and 6-8-feet wide. Its “lanky stems” and vining habits are also perfect for training on a support à la the Duke Gardens’ plumbago. The species blooms from late spring through fall, so my hypothetical plumbago would do most of its best work while outside on vacation.

    As we moved away from Miss Duke’s plumbago I began to wonder what I would have to do to make a similar one comfortable at my place. To begin with, anything that grows to be as tall as the average human being needs a really big pot. Fortunately, I have a spare twenty-gallon featherweight pot in the garage. It is clear that I would have to invest in one of those wheeled plant dollies to make the spring and fall transfers easier on me. In the winter my plumbago would reside in the sunniest spot in the house-my dining room. Since the house is usually bone dry in the winter, I would have to put the portable humidifier comfortably near the pot, the better to waft moist vapors over it. That way both the plumbago and I could avoid becoming desiccated and brittle.

    My plumbago would also need to have some kind of support structure anchored in the soil of its pot. One of the high-end catalogs has a six-foot tall cedar tuteur that bears a vague resemblance to the Eiffel tower. Naturally I would forgo a mortgage payment and buy it. At the same time I would order a new pair of Felco #2 clippers, because I would need them to control my plumbago’s rampant growth. After all, any plant that was good enough for Doris Duke deserves the very best.

    I would have to keep my plumbago sufficiently watered at all times, except during the winter months, when it would be resting. I would also have to keep Arthur the cat from disturbing its roots by digging in the pot.

    I don’t know whether it’s really wise to dwell on the aftermath of love at first sight. It tends to take the bloom off the rose (or in this case, the plumbago). The more I thought about acquiring a plumbago, the more I thought that inviting one into my life would not enrich my existence nearly as much as I had supposed. Fortunately, this melancholy reverie was ended abruptly as we moved into a different garden room and I laid eyes on an absolutely mind-boggling gloxinia. It was so big, so red, so gorgeous that I forgot about the poor lanky plumbago. I experienced a revelation. A gloxinia would be perfect for me. I began to imagine what it would be like the first time the two of us went to a meeting of the Gloxinia and Gesneriad Society together. Doris Duke never had it so good.

    Yellow Rose
    SWORD LILIES
    CHANGE IN THE GARDEN
    UNFORGETTABLE
    FRESH VEGGIES

    [ad_2]

    Elizabeth Ginsberg

    Source link

  • ALIAS PRIMROSE – Backyard Gardener

    ALIAS PRIMROSE – Backyard Gardener

    [ad_1]

    When I moved into my house in mid-February a year and a half ago, one of the first things I did was to walk around the yard, and try to figure out what the previous owner had planted. The winter had been exceptionally mild, and she had done little garden clean up, so it was easy to identify the remnants of marigolds, the desiccated hosta leaves and the naked canes of miniature rose bushes. When I came to the front strip, between the sidewalk and the street, I noticed that there was a bare patch of earth, approximately 18” long and perhaps 8” wide.“Grubs”, I thought, or maybe just drought or dog-related grass mortality.I made a mental note to throw some grass seed on the spot come spring.

    When spring arrived, however, I involved myself in an orgy of purchasing and planting, and forgot about the bare spot. When grass-cutting season commenced, I noticed that the spot had miraculously covered itself with something that had narrow bluish-green foliage. The little plants were not chickweed, ground ivy, plantain, lambs’ quarters, or even the dreaded Japanese knotweed. They were, in fact, none of the many common weeds that had been appearing and reproducing themselves at astonishing speed around the rest of my yard and garden. As usual, prudence and my indolent nature saved the mystery plants from being lopped by the mower or rooted out with the garden hoe.

    Eventually, May arrived, and while I was waiting anxiously for blooms on my new rosebushes, I saw that the formerly bare spot was now arrayed with pink, cup-shaped blossoms. All flowers seem like a miracle to me, especially if they happen to be growing successfully in my garden.I wasn’t familiar with these four petaled blossoms, but I was fascinated by the fact that they were growing, with no help from me, in rather poor soil.

    Of course, it is never enough to have something that succeeds so well.I was seized by a burning desire to know more about my plants. I needed a common name, a botanical name, and I wanted to find out if my pink-flowered charmers had any cousins that might also flourish in the vast amounts of poor dry soil that I had at my disposal. I turned to several garden books that arrange listings for ornamental plants by flower color.I found nothing in the red or pink sections that looked like what I had. I checked the wildflower encyclopedia.Nothing.I was in despair for about a week, petrified that someone would ask me the name of my beautiful blossoms and I would have to make something up, using the vast supply of pseudo-Latin names that I have invented for just such occasions.

    As often happens, serendipity intervened. A friend brought a belated housewarming gift that was labeled “Evening Primrose” (Oenothera missouriensis). The plant was in bloom, sporting 4” yellow blossoms that, except for color, were identical to those on the plants in my front strip.I raced to Hortus III, a large and exceptionally useful plant encyclopedia, and looked up the Oenothera genus.I found out that there are some 80 species, most of which thrive in full sun, and the majority of which are native to the Western Hemisphere. Some evening-flowering Oenothera are known as “Evening Primrose”, like my gift plant, while day-flowering varieties are sometimes known as “sun cups” or “sundrops”.Reading on, I determined that I probably had Oenothera speciosa, which, according to the book, has white to pink flowers. About a week later, one of the major seed catalogs arrived, and finally, on page 70, I found a picture of my Oenothera, and I knew that I had been saved yet again from horticultural embarrassment.

    The problem with the name primrose is that it crops up all over the horticultural universe. There are, for example, over 400 species of the spring-flowering, moisture loving Primula, and most of them are commonly known as primroses. Every other pale yellow plant in some plant catalogs, especially those on the high end of the trade, is referred to as being “primrose” in color. Then, of course there are the many members of the Oenothera clan.  It’s a good argument for Latin names.

    My species of Oenothera, obviously delighted at being correctly identified, has set out to take over the front strip. This year, in its second year blooming for me, the patch of Oenothera has tripled in size, and the plentiful spring rains have caused the plants to have longer stems than usual. In short, they are magnificent. I do not pick them, because it seems to give the neighbors so much joy just to stare at them. I continue to ignore them, except when they are blooming. They are my personal “lilies of the field”, and I take them as evidence that at least a part of my garden exists in a state of grace.


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    [ad_2]

    Elizabeth Ginsberg

    Source link

  • How to plant a bean plant

    How to plant a bean plant

    [ad_1]

    Broad Beans

    These were certainly known to the Ancient Egyptians and are probably natives of northern and western Asia. They are extremely hardy.

    Cultivation

    A good rich loam suits these beans, though they are not difficult to grow on any soil. This crop may well follow cabbages and potatoes, or manure may be dug in sparingly. A certain amount of chemical fertilizer may be added as follows: 84g (3oz) per sq m (sq yd) of superphosphate and 28g (1oz) per sq m (sq yd) of sulfate of potash. These beans prefer a neutral or alkaline soil to one which is acid.

    In January or February, seed may be sown in boxes or individual pots and started under glass. In April the young plants are set out and the crop becomes mature in June. Another method is to plant outdoors in April for the maid summer crop or a May sowing becomes ready in September. At one time autumn sowing was popular, but a number of bad winters in succession has made this method unpopular.

    In sowing, the seeds are spaced at 16cm (6in) intervals in rows 60cm (2ft) apart. The beans may be put 4cm (1in) deep or, on clay soil, be placed on the surface and soil ridged up to cover them. When the first bean pods are showing the tip of the main shoot should be broken off and removed.

    Named kinds include: ‘Green Windsor’, ‘Saville Longpod’, ‘Early Longpod’, ‘Masterpiece’, ‘Green Longpod’, ‘Bun-yard’s Exhibition’ and ‘Harlington White.’

    Haricot beans and French beans (Phaseolus vulgaris)

    The difference between the French bean and the haricot bean is merely that in the former the pod containing immature seeds is eaten, while the haricots are the ripe seeds without the pods. The details of cultivation are the same for both French and haricot forms of the bean.

    The runner bean is more often grown than the French, on the continent the reverse is true. It is not always known that a climbing form of the French bean is available though the dwarf kind is certainly more popular and has some advantages.

    Cultivation

    Soil should be rich and light and well dug, with a dusting of superphosphate of lime at 84g (3oz) per sq m (sq yd) and manure at the rate of 50kg to each 8 sq m (8 sq yd). For early crops seeds may be sown in boxes during April and started under glass to be hardened off and planted out in May. Outdoors it is unwise to sow before the plant and overwinter it, nothing is gained. Those who use the railways running into London will, in late summer, have noted in almost all the suburban backyards abutting upon the line thriving plants of the beloved scarlet runner, and it is notable that this is often the only vegetable grown. All of which speaks eloquently of the merits of this most popular amateur’s plant. Cultivation It would be most unwise to plant runner beans before May as they will not take the least frost. Should an early crop be required the same method end of April.

    The secret of a good crop of succulent beans is speedy raising without check. Water freely and mulch if dry weather occurs. It is essential with this bean to begin picking while the beans are still tender and not more than 10cm (4in) long. It seems a trait to produce the heaviest crop of the largest vegetables, and this is why the best qualities of flavor and texture are sometimes lacking from our vegetables.

    The outdoor beans should be spaced 16cm (6in) apart in drills 2.5cm (1 in) deep, 45cm (18in) apart.

    At the end of the season the plants may well be allowed to ripen their remaining seeds as these when shelled and dried are really the haricots of commerce. They may be used as seed for next year’s crop, but as long as they are kept dry they may be kept for over a year for use in cookery.

    French beans may be forced under glass to have them at a time when they are unobtainable in the shops. From a January sowing under glass with a maintained temperature of 60°F (16°C) beans may be had by May. Early March sowings give beans in June. Soil should be as for tomato culture and an even temperature and state of moisture must be maintained throughout.

    Named kinds include: ‘Brown Dutch’, `Canadian Wonder’, ‘Cherokee’, ‘Fin de Bagnols’, ‘Masterpiece’ and ‘Black Prince’.

    Runner beans (Phaseolus coccineus)

    This plant is a native of tropical America, and when first introduced into Britain it was grown for the beauty of its bright scarlet blossoms. It is actually a tender perennial, but is commonly grown as an annual; though it is possible to take a may be used as advised for the french bean and sow the seed in boxes under glass. It is not necessary to sow these seeds before April since they may not be put out before late May or the beginning of June.

    The method of planting for those plants which will be staked is that of two double rows 25cm (loin) apart
    separated by a space of at least 1.6m (5ft). It is in this central area that the strong supports must be placed. The individual seeds must be placed at 20cm (8in) intervals.

    The poles or stakes should be quite 2.6m (8ft) long and should be connected by a strong horizontal structure firmly lashed to the uprights. The rest of the framework is merely a net or an arrangement of strings. The weight of a row of runner beans in full growth is considerable and they present a large surface to be shaken by the wind. To avoid all this scaffolding it is quite possible to convert the plants into shrubby masses by a routine of pinching out the growing shoots. However, when this plan is adopted the individual seeds must be spaced at 60cm (2ft) intervals, with a distance of 1m (3ft) between the rows. Naturally a given number of plants will occupy considerably more ground space under these conditions.

    When runner beans are in full production pick them frequently. As with French beans, they should be picked when they are young and tender.

    Named kinds include: ‘Best of All’, `Giraffe’, ‘Kentucky Wonder’, ‘Painted Lady’, ‘Prizewinner’, ‘Streamline’ and ‘Princeps’.


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    [ad_2]

    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • Why we plant a trees

    Why we plant a trees

    [ad_1]

    We plant trees for their beauty of leaf, whether green in Summer or red in the Autumn; for their bark which becomes particularly fascinating. We plant trees because we love them. Some trees linger in our memories as old friends, from whose branches we have swung and “skinned-the-cat”; under whose cool shade we have rested from play or work. Some trees seem to have moods, changing from day to day, season to season, and from youth to old age.

    In Winter; for the delicate tracery of the branches which frame our view of the eternal blue or star-scattered heavens; for their flowers which seem like giant nosegays.

    We plant trees to shelter our homes from the Summer sun and from the cold sweeping winds of Winter.

    We enjoy a touch of Nature to form a background and a frame for our architecture.

    We plant trees to furnish leaf cloisters for the birds which awaken us from our too-late slumbers when all the world of Nature, except ourselves, is awake.

    We plant trees because, where they expand their verdant branches the air is purer and less dusty. The medical societies are constantly advocating the planting of city trees to temper the heat of Summer on the torrid pavements.

    We plant forests that floods may be prevented; that fertile soil shall not be carried to the valleys below; that rainfall may be regulated.

    We plant trees for their economic use-lumber, furniture, turpentine, rubber, quinine, nuts, cork, paper, windbreaks, and one thousand and one uses for which we have as yet found no substitute.

    We plant avenues of trees in cities and along the roadsides, because we believe that no road or street is dressed or finished until it has been planted to furnish shade, frame vistas of outlying beauty, and prevent snowdrifts.

    Aside from this aesthetic and civic value, the realtor knows that trees increase the value of the property. Business on a tree-bordered avenue is likely to be brisker than on a sun-parched thoroughfare.

    Some of us plant trees that we may be silent witnesses to the life processes of the tree.

    We enjoy pruning a tree to our whims, improving its fruits by breeding, and its vigor by supplying plant food.

    We are interested in a tree for pure botanical and horticultural reasons. The strength of its woody fibers, the incomparable complexity of its flowers, the abundance of its fruit, and the growth processes fascinate us.

    We take joy in supplying a fit environment for growth that approaches perfection.

    – Horticultural Trade World

    What Is a Tree?

    What is a tree?
    Well doubtless he
    Who dwells in city streets by choice May never know.
    But souls that breathe expanding life outdoors
    Know trees as brothers, friends; and feel aglow
    With kindred fellowship and common voice.

    Yes, bees do know
    And birds have made
    The trees their lifelong homes
    And what is nearer or more intimately ours than home?

    What is a tree?
    The soul of God!
    Whose budding leaves and blossoms in the Spring
    Bespeak Creation.
    Whose shade in Summer cools
    The burning heat of life and brings us peace;
    Whose bronzing colors in the Autumn landscape glow
    With pride of fruitfulness, God’s bounty, man’s maturity.
    Whose bare strong arms in Winter steadfast hold
    Against- the ice and storms of life when courage sags
    When green and sap of youth have lost their bold
    Firm power and interest lags.

    What is a tree?
    Oh! Yes, I know! ‘Tis God.
    ‘Tis His own way to speak His majesty,
    His voice, His power, His love, His mystery..
    -G. THoMAs DUNLOP

    Articles

    Lacebark – Pinus bungeanas
    Shade Trees – How to Select and Care for Them

    Yews (Taxus) trees and shrubs – Types, planting and care

    How to

       Cutting Down A Small Tree
    Forcing Branches To Bloom
    Heeling In
    Planting A Bare Root Tree
    Planting A Container Tree
    Planting Ball And Burlap Tree
    Pruning Ornamental Shrubs
    Removing A Large Tree Limb
    Removing A Sucker From A Tree
    Winterizing Small Trees

    Links

       Trees   

    Japanese Maples – Acer Palmatum, Acer Japonicum
    Planting Techniques for Trees and Shrubs
    Transplanting Trees & Shrubs in the Landscape
    How to Prune Trees
    British Trees
    The Right Tree Handbook

    Tree Identification – Broad leaf trees

    Tree Planting Selection

    Evergreens plants for your garden

    [ad_2]

    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • Selecting a tree for your local Town

    Selecting a tree for your local Town

    [ad_1]

    In his classic book Mormon Country, author Wallace Stegner noted that nineteenth century Mormons planted rows of Lombardy poplar trees wherever they established settlements in the territory that is now Utah. The trees served as windbreaks and boundary markers, but they were also the flags that marked the advance of Mormon civilization in a hostile territory. In my hometown and lots of other towns all over the United States elm trees served a similar function, marking the spread of middle class residential neighborhoods during the end of the nineteenth and the first third of the twentieth centuries. In the 1960’s almost all of those tall elegant trees fell prey to Dutch Elm Disease, making each municipality a little poorer.

    I was thinking about trees and what the planting of specific trees says about a society last week when a municipal truck plopped a locust sapling on my neighbor’s front strip. This tree and dozens of its siblings are being planted all over town in an effort by municipal government to replace some of the aged hardwood trees that have been dispatched by storms, disease or simple old age over the past few years.

    The trees that have gone were mature oaks, sycamores, beeches and a few straight statuesque tulip trees. Somehow it doesn’t seem right to replace them with a tree as prosaic as the locust. Still, since few homeowners plant anything other than the occasional dogwood, magnolia or crabapple, it is a good thing that the municipality has decided to invest in some kind of street trees. Otherwise, our successors in this town and many others may well fry later on in the century.

    Of course, there is nothing wrong with small ornamental flowering trees. They are inspiring additions to the landscape and provide color, flowers and fruit (if not for humans then for birds). There is nothing wrong with locust trees. It is just that in terms of stature, shade, contribution to air quality and inspirational value, you just can’t top a mature beech tree.

    The problem is that it takes a long time to get a mature beech tree. If you plant one in your yard now, you will not live to see it get to the statuesque stage. What with high taxes and changing patterns of middle class mobility, you may not remain at your current address long enough to see your beech tree get much beyond the sapling stage. Someone else’s grandchildren will probably play in the beech tree’s shade, but for many people that thought does not provide enough gratification to justify planting the beech tree in the first place.

    So municipalities like mine do the best they can, planting trees that grow relatively quickly and are tough enough to survive drought, neglect, air pollution and other travails. Keeping this in mind, homeowners should make an effort to care for the young trees that the town plants in the “hell strip” between the street and the sidewalk (if indeed your municipality has provided you with a sidewalk). It is especially important to water them during droughts. Probably the best thing to be said about the incessant lawn watering that goes on in most places is that the trees benefit from the frequent dousings.

    If you have space on your lot, consider planting a slow-growing hardwood tree. Flaunt your individuality and plant something more interesting than the neighbors have—a white oak or a sweet gum or a sugar maple. If you are feeling patriotic and want to give the world a really magnificent specimen, plant a tulip tree. George Washington put them in at Mount Vernon, and at least one survives to this day. If you have a significant event—a birth in the family, graduation, wedding or a death—plant a tree in celebration or remembrance.

    Do not be deterred by busybodies who tell you that your little sycamore will eventually shed its bark like a cat shedding fur in July, or that your beech tree will drop enough beechnuts in one season to fill a municipal garbage truck. That’s why there are rakes, leaf blowers, teenagers and lawn services. Besides, just as someone else’s grandchildren will enjoy the shade of your tulip or larch, someone else’s grandchildren may gain a character-building experience by tending to the leaves or sloughed-off bark or fallen nuts. Whether you manage a hedge fund for a living or trim hedges for your daily bread, you leave a lasting legacy by planting a tree. Find a sturdy spade and get started.
    by Elisabeth Ginsburg

    Press Here!
    Yellow Rose
    SWORD LILIES
    CHANGE IN THE GARDEN
    UNFORGETTABLE
    FRESH VEGGIES

    annual gardening, annual garden designannual gardening, annual garden design
    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    [ad_2]

    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • Foliar Feeding Plants

    Foliar Feeding Plants

    [ad_1]

    This is the application of nutrients to the aerial parts of plants. It can be used for the treatment of all deficiencies for all types of growing plants. But you can only spray very small amounts of nutrients onto the leaves at a time, otherwise, leaf scorch or even defoliation may follow. If foliar spraying is to be successful there must be sufficient foliage to hold the applied nutrients, and plants cannot develop to a stage of growth when foliar treatment, would be effective unless the soil has been prepared properly before sowing or planting. So, although foliar feeding cannot take the place of the traditional method of applying fertilizers and manures to the soil, it is a useful supplement, for the following purposes:

    1. To give a quick boost to growth which has been checked by waterlogged soils, cold nights, biting winds and frosts.
    2. To provide nutrients quickly when roots are unable to absorb sufficient nutrients from the soil, due to an infertile soil, lack of soil moisture, low soil temperatures or a restricted, injured or diseased root system.
    3. To correct a deficiency of a particular nutrient, which is applied to the soil could be locked up in an unavailable form eg manganese.
    4. To supplement the usual soil fertilizer treatment during flower production when there is a big increase in nutrient uptake by the roots.

    Foliar applications of potassium nitrate to roses have often produced more richly colored blooms and dark green glossy foliage.

    Methods of application

    Nutrients can be applied as dusts or sprays. Finely ground fertilizers may be dusted onto damp foliage but these are not as efficient as sprays because more of the fertilizer falls off the leaves and about twice as much fertilizer is required to give as good an effect as a spray.

    So it is best to use sprays, especially when applying trace element fertilizers, which are required in very small amounts. The fertilizers listed in the table below are applied at the rate suggested, using an ordinary garden sprayer or a watering can with a fine rose.

    Time of application

    If deficiency symptoms have occurred at an early stage spraying should be done immediately there is enough leaf to spray, followed by a further application in 2-3 weeks since most of the first application will have fallen on bare ground.

    Where a deficiency occurs every year it is best to apply the foliar spray before symptoms appear.

    Special hints

    Always spray both upper and lower surfaces of the leaves, because absorption is greater through the under surfaces of the leaves.

    Use a fine mist sprayer and add a leaf wetting agent (not a soap type) to the spray. This will help to reduce the risk of leaf scorch. Spray in late afternoon or on a dull day, since best results follow applications made under slow drying conditions.

    Don’t spray if the weather is hot and sunny, or scorching will be severe. Avoid showery weather, or most of the nutrients will be washed off.

    Always get an expert to diagnose a deficiency before you start treatment.


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    [ad_2]

    Frederick Leeth

    Source link