Category: Home & Garden

I’ve been reading The Independent Farmstead by Shawn and Beth Dougherty. It’s a good read (I am about 2/3 of the way through), with practical and useful information on making your homestead/farm less dependent on the outside world, and particularly the toxic sphere of Big Ag.

Their focus is heavily on animal food production, including eggs, meat and dairy, in a temperate climate.

Now that we own more land, we are also shifting our focus to animal food production, and the pasture-building techniques and simple systems in this book are quite worthwhile. The gist of the book is that they took a piece of very marginal (and affordable) land and turned it into a productive homestead, and you can too.

Publisher’s description:

With in-depth information on electric fencing, watering, and husbandry for ruminants, poultry, and pigs, plus butchering, dairying, and more

“If we work hard, we sleep well.”

Twenty years ago, when authors Shawn and Beth Dougherty purchased the land they would come to name the Sow’s Ear, the state of Ohio designated it “not suitable for agriculture.” Today, their family raises and grows 90% of their own food.

Such self-sufficiency is largely the result of basing their farming practices around intensive pasture management. Pioneered by such luminaries as Allan Savory, Greg Judy, and Joel Salatin, the tenets of holistic grazing―employed mostly by larger-scale commercial operations―have been adapted by the Doughertys to fit their family’s needs. In The Independent Farmstead, The Sow’s Ear model for regenerating the land and growing food―“the best you ever tasted”―is elucidated for others to use and build upon.

In witty and welcoming style, The Independent Farmstead covers everything from choosing a species of ruminant and incorporating it into a grass-based system to innovative electric fencing and watering systems, to what to do with all of the milk, meat, and, yes, manure that the self-sustaining farm produces. Within these pages, the Doughertys discuss how to:

• Find and improve poor, waste, or abused land and develop its natural water resources;
• Select and purchase the appropriate ruminant for regenerating your farmstead;
• Apply fencing strategies and pasture management basics;
• Implement basic, uncomplicated food processing, including large and small animal butchering and cheese making; and
• Integrate grass, gardens, and livestock to minimize or eliminate the need for off-farm inputs.

As the Doughertys write, more and more people today are feeling “the desire for clean, affordable food, unmodified, unprocessed, and unmedicated and the security of local food sourcing for ourselves and our children.” The Independent Farmstead is a must-have resource for those who count themselves as part of this movement: both new and prospective farmers and homesteaders, and those who are interested in switching to grass-based systems. Best of all it’s the kind of rare how-to book that the authors themselves view not as a compendium of one-size-fits-all instructions but as “the beginning of a conversation,” one that is utterly informative, sincere, and inspiring.

You can get a copy here.

Although it would be nearly impossible for any plant lover to choose just one favorite, here are a few of the standouts that look especially good in my Zone 6 Michigan garden at the peak of the growing season.

 

1. ‘Conca d’Or’ Orienpet Lily

(Lilium ‘Conca d’Or’)

Zones: 5–8

Size: 4 to 7 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist, fertile, well-drained soil

Native range: Hybrid

This fragrant beauty may produce up to a dozen flowers on each strong, upright stem. In windy areas, it may need staking. It is very hardy and reliable, with cheerful blooms that glow against a column of deep green foliage over a long period in midsummer.

 

2. ‘Green Arrow’ Alaskan Weeping Cedar

(Xanthocyparis nootkatensis ‘Green Arrow’)

Zones: 4–7

Size: 18 to 30 feet tall and 2 to 5 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist to average, well-drained soil

Native range: Coastal regions of northwestern North America

‘Green Arrow’ Alaskan weeping cedar has a distinctly linear, upright form and reliable, grass-green winter color—characteristics that set it apart from ‘Pendula’ Alaskan weeping cedar. Although impressive when planted as a single specimen, it is even more spectacular in groups.

 

3. Eucalyptus Wild Indigo

(Baptisia perfoliata)

Zones: 4–9

Size: 3 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun; moist to dry, well-drained soil

Native range: Southeastern United States

This unique-looking species of wild indigo has rounded leaves punctured by wiry stems. Its small yellow flowers appear at leaf axils starting in mid to late summer and continue for several weeks. The distinctive texture of eucalyptus wild indigo combines beautifully with other perennials.

 

4. ‘Galaxy Blue’ Agapanthus

(Agapanthus ‘Galaxy Blue’)

Zones: 6–10

Size: 36 to 40 inches tall and 28 to 30 inches wide

Conditions: Full sun; moist to average, well-drained soil

Native range: Hybrid of species from southern Africa

I have been hybridizing agapanthus for 10 years, and this one is a standout. It is extremely floriferous, bringing a hard-to-find shade of blue to the garden from midsummer through early autumn. Reliably hardy to Zone 6, ‘Galaxy Blue’ does particularly well in regions with consistently heavy snowfall.

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Hans Hansen is the director of new plant development at Walters Gardens in Zeeland, Michigan.

Photos: Carol Collins

Kathy Sandel has shared her gardens with us before (More of Kathy’s Calabasas Garden, Kathy’s Garden Transformation in Sacramento), but today she’s sharing the garden she created for her daughter in Sacramento, California.

My daughter and her wife have lived in a small house in Sacramento for several years. Now that I have also moved near, she asked me to redo her front garden.

They were already planning on widening and repaving the driveway, and since their rear garden is very limited, I suggested that the contractor pouring the driveway extend the pour and include a good-size pad in the front garden. I could then build low planters to surround the concrete area to create a patio. They liked the idea, so we mapped out the shape and size.

The front garden contains a huge redwood tree. It is too large to consider removing, and they do like the tree. However, it dominates the property. We solved the problem by raising its lower limbs to let in more light and to be able to see across the yard. We also pruned it carefully to lighten its prominence. The lowest branches are now about 7 feet above the ground. We sectioned the yard into three planting areas.

We then brought in about 10 yards of good planter mix and amendments, turned and graded the area, and laid drip lines.

The front slope we covered in a silver ground cover called dymondia (Dymondia margaretae, Zones 9–11).

There is a natural dip in the surface between the front slope and the area surrounding the tree. We planted many different succulents in this area, with a ground cover of creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia, Zones 3–8).

We then finished building and plastering the low planters that surround the patio, making sure to leave openings at the base for drainage.

We filled these planters with wonderful planter mixes and perlite for aeration and proceeded to plant color, mostly perennials with some succulents mixed in. The planters are also on drip irrigation.

The first winter we planted white cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum, Zones 9–11). Then for summer we planted a mix of red Heuchera (Zones 3–8) in place of the cyclamen.

My daughter and her wife bought new patio furniture and are thrilled with their new party patio.

Climbing roses and pansies fill this planter with color.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

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Finished Reading

Born Again Dirt by Noah Sanders

An Agricultural Testament by Sir Albert Howard

Landrace Gardening by Joseph Lofthouse

The Contagion Myth by Thomas S. Cowan and Sally Fallon Morrell

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 1 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 2 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 3 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 4 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

A Soil Owner’s Manual by Jon Stika

Comeback Farms by Greg Judy

Dirt to Soil by Gabe Brown

Keeping Bees with a Smile by Fedor Lazutin and Leo Sharashkin

Balanced Beekeeping I: Building a Top Bar Hive by Philip Chandler

Balanced Beekeeping II: Managing the Top Bar Hive by Philip Chandler

Handling Sin by Michael Malone

The Rooted Life by Justin Rhodes

The Complete Guide to Restoring Your Soil by Dale Strickler

Soil Science for Gardeners by Robert Pavlis

The Wheel of Health: The Sources of Long Life and Health Among the Hunza by Dr. G. T. Wrench

For the Love of the Soil by Nicole Masters

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 5 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

Three Men in a Boat (To Say Nothing of the Dog) by Jerome K. Jerome

Metabolical by Dr. Robert Lustig

Satyricon by Gaius Petronius

Skin in the Game by Nassim Taleb

The History of Early Rome by Livy

Dissolving Illustions by Suzanne Humphries and Roman Bystrianyk

Goodbye, Things: The New Japanese Minimalism by Fumio Sasaki

Less: A Visual Guide to Minimalism by Rachel Aust

Minimalism: Live a Meaningful Life by Joshua Fields Milburn and Ryan Nicodemus

De Agricultura by Cato

Don’t Stop the Carnival by Herman Wouk

The Art of Fermentation by Sandor Katz

Tom Jones by Henry Fielding

Coppice Agrofrestry by Mark Krawczyk

Eating on the Wild Side by Jo Robinson

The More of Less: Finding the Life You Want Under Everything You Own by Joshua Becker

Aeneid by Virgil

Behold Your Mother: A Biblical and Historical Defense of the Marian Doctrines by Tim Staples

Becoming Orthodox by Peter Gilquist

The Holy Bible (NKJV) by God

Started then Ditched

Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens


The Barefoot Beekeeper by Philip Chandler


Holistic Management, Third Edition: A Commonsense Revolution to Restore Our Environment by Allan Savory

Repotting

Repotting is best done in spring and summer. It’s time to repot when you see roots actively growing out of the drainage holes in your plant’s pot. Remove the plant and gently massage the roots to loosen them. Replant with fresh houseplant soil into a container that is no more than a couple of inches larger than the last one. Don’t forget to give it a good soak when you’re done!

If your plants don’t need to be repotted but you want to freshen the soil, follow the steps above and replant into the same container. You can also add a few inches of fresh potting soil to the surface as needed to keep the soil level topped up.

Cleaning & Pruning

Most Dracaenas don’t need a lot of pruning, but you can remove older leaves as needed to keep the plant looking neat. If your plant has grown too tall, you can cut the stems back at a 45-degree angle with clean pruners. and they will push out new branches from just below the cut. This can also create denser foliage. Like repotting, this is best done in the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing. You may also want to occasionally wipe the leaves to remove dust.

Propagating

Dracaena plants can be propagated with stem cuttings, which are best done in the spring. Cut a section of stem (at least 6”) and place it in a small container of water or a small container with evenly moist soil. Dip one end of the cut stem into the rooting powder, then place the stem in either water or a small container with evenly moist soil. Refresh the water every week and keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. When a good number of roots have developed, transplant your cutting into a small container. You want the container to have enough room for the roots and a little extra space to grow but not be so large that there is excess soil, which can stay too wet and rot the plant.

But you shouldn’t be willy-nilly and just stick large rocks on the ground all haphazardly, though. This guide will walk you through everything a home landscaper needs to know and more!

Here’s what we’ll be discussing:

Boulders 101

Boulders are an important element of hardscaping, the non-living elements of landscaping such as brick, wood, and concrete.

But it’s important to clarify exactly what they are, especially in comparison to other types of stones.

When most people think “boulder,” they picture a massive, hard-to-move stone like the one Sisyphus eternally pushes up a hill in Greek mythology, or perhaps the one that rolls after Indiana Jones in “Raiders of the Lost Ark.” But the true definition is actually a bit broader than that.

In geology, a boulder is any fragment of stone with a diameter larger than 10 inches. Any smaller, and you’re in the realm of cobbles, pebbles, and gravel, which landscapers use for pathways, waterways, rock gardens, and the like.

As you can imagine, boulders come in a wide range of sizes. Some are small enough for a single person to move with ease, while others require heavy-duty machinery.

Others, like the famed Giant Rock in the Mojave Desert – which is seven stories tall and covers 5,800 square feet – aren’t movable at all, at least not without some dynamite, or maybe Superman.

In general, they come in two forms: round and angular.

Round boulders have a relatively smooth surface and come from sand-and-gravel deposits of water-washed rock like sandstone and granite, which have been worn down by rain, wind, and sand over eons.

Angular boulders are more jagged, with flatter faces. These are harvested from quarries using heavy machinery and explosives, and are composed of materials such as basalt, granite, quartzite, and sandstone.

Other materials are also available, such as limestone, slate, and even marble! Mica can be used as a color amendment, while mossy growth enables a striking green look. Speaking of…

Landscaping stone is available in more colors than you’d imagine.

Along with the standard grays, browns, and tans, it’s available in pinks, reds, yellows, golds, and more. Add different combos to the mix, and you have dozens of options to choose from!

Why Use Boulders?

If you’re going to be lugging heavy, potentially expensive rocks into your yard, it helps to have a “why” or two. So here are three reasons to incorporate boulders into your landscaping:

1. Aesthetics

There’s no doubt about it: the right boulders, placed in the right spots, look pretty cool, adding texture and interest to the landscape.

I mean, stones may not bring a tear to your eye like beautiful plants can, but they definitely have their own unique charm.

They add visual interest in many different landscaping scenarios.

In a typical garden, they provide an earthy aesthetic that functions as a complimentary accent to your lush, green plants. In a rock garden, they can actually be the focus, with the plants playing the accompanying role.

2. Creates Structure

Boulders don’t just look nice. They can also be the building blocks for structures within your landscape.

A bunch of properly-stacked stones can form a retaining wall. An ascending line can function as stepping stones for walkers. And don’t forget about the way they can be used as borders for planting beds and water features!

The structures formed are very solid and durable, too. It’s easy to damage plants, but it’s a bit tougher to put a dent in stone. And speaking as a former kid, I know that a landscape full of large rocks provides plenty of climbable and jumpable obstacles for children to play on!

3. Low Maintenance

If you’ve been in the gardening game for a while, then you know that plants can be delicate, finicky, and needy organisms. It can be a ton of work to keep them alive, much less in top form.

That’s where boulders can provide a breath of fresh air. There’s a reason pet rocks were popular with neglectful pet owners: stones are the easiest thing in the world to take care of.

They don’t require any sun, water, or fertilizer. They don’t wilt, attract pests, or become sick. And save for maybe a freak lightning strike, they’re tough enough to withstand anything nature throws at them.

Rocks are also a fantastic and thirstless tool for xeriscaping, landscaping in a way that requires little to no irrigation. You can learn more about xeriscaping in our guide.

Selection Tips

When picking out boulders for your landscaping, keep these pointers in mind:

Consider Local Geology

When you are considering ginormous stones for your landscape, ask yourself: what kind of rock occurs naturally in this region?

The right choice of stone compliments the landscape, while the wrong ones can make it look a bit unnatural. If you live in Arizona near the Grand Canyon, then red sandstone would look fantastic. If you’re a Missourian like myself, then granite works wonderfully.

Choosing a rock type that’s alien to your area isn’t the end of the world, but just like native plantings are recommended for a natural aesthetic, so is native stone.

On the other hand, you might want to create a contrast in your garden, choosing colors and textures from different geographical regions.

Have a Plan

Boulders can be expensive, hard to move, and even harder to remove. So going in without a basic design could end up being an expensive hassle.

And since large stones are cumbersome and natural focus points, it is best to choose your rock placement before deciding what you’ll plant.

There are all sorts of digital landscaping tools you can use to make detailed, beautifully-rendered designs – but pencils, graph paper, and a super long tape measure can be just as practical for plotting where your rocks will sit in relation to the other elements in your garden.

Go Big, Not Massive

It’s easy to underestimate the size of the boulders you need for your property.

They have a weird way of looking bigger at the buying lot, yet when you get them home they can appear just a bit too small on your property. So don’t be afraid to go big!

However, there is such a thing as too big. If your property ends up looking more like Stonehenge than a residential landscape, then you should probably dial it back a bit.

Choose Colors Wisely

Color is a powerful tool for setting the mood – so use it!

Use off-white, gray, and ivory hues to create a peaceful vibe. Dark, earthy tones like black and brown radiate power, while bright yellows, reds, and oranges feel lively and upbeat.

Decide which feelings you want to convey, then use color psychology to make it happen.

Contrast With Plantings

Landscaping is a delicate dance of hardscape and softscape, non-living and living, yin and yang. To keep this effect going, make your plantings really contrast with your boulders.

A vibrant, colorful ground cover next to a laid-back rock really emphasizes the appearance of both, kinda like putting a preppy frat dude next to an alternative punk woman. A unique aesthetic can only be appreciated through differentiation, after all.

Placement Tips

Once you’ve got your large stones – and complementary plantings – picked out, here’s where rubber meets the road… or rock meets the soil, I suppose.

In the Ground, Not on the Ground

To really make your landscape look long-lasting, partially bury your boulders in the ground to give the impression they’ve been there for millennia.

If you just set them on the ground, that enduring effect isn’t there.

Anywhere from a few inches deep to more than halfway buried is acceptable. As a rule of thumb, the deeper the stone, the older it looks.

This also helps the rocks to remain in place, so bury them deep enough so that they’ll stay anchored, especially on angled slopes!

Go With Grouping

A lone, conspicuous stone in the landscape can look a little unnatural. Or perhaps foreboding, like an ancient civilization’s marker for a sacred, haunted burial ground.

Go with clusters rather than solo stones – it looks more natural. Plus, more boulders!

Create Levels

How boring would a painting look if it was three feet wide and only an inch tall? Same goes for a flat landscape.

To provide texture and interest to the garden, use your boulders to create elevated surfaces.

Retaining walls, ascending steps, and ridges all create opportunities that you wouldn’t have with a wide, perfectly horizontal landscape.

Keep It Varied

Nature is rarely symmetrical and uniform. So a line of similarly-oriented, practically identical stones definitely throws off that “au naturel” vibe.

Go with odd numbers, varying sizes, and asymmetrical arrangements, and feel free to mix up the types of stones you use, too. Redundancy gets old, even with boulders.

Trust Your Gut

Humans are primed to differentiate natural from unnatural and beautiful from ugly. So if your boulder setup looks weird and unaesthetic to you, don’t ignore that feeling.

It’s your landscape, and if it doesn’t look good to you, then it doesn’t work. Don’t be afraid to make visual edits or veer from the plan if something needs changing, even if it breaks some of the aforementioned “rules.”

Oranges are not only one of the most nutrient-packed fruits available, but they are also delicious. Here in the citrus corridor, we are blessed with an abundance of citrus, and one of the best ways to preserve the bounty is by juicing the oranges for fresh-squeezed orange juice. In this blog post, I’ll share my 3 best tips for how to juice oranges to get the best taste, most juice, and longest storage life out of your juice.

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Tip #1: Juice the correct type of orange

When it comes to juice, not all oranges are equal. Here are a few tips to keep in mind:

• Sweet oranges are good for both juice and eating fresh.
• Valencia oranges ripen later in the spring and are known for their delicious juice, which is deep orange in color and high in sugar.
• Navel oranges are best eaten fresh. If you juice them, use the juice as soon as possible. Navel oranges contain a compound called limonin, which produces a bitter taste in the juice.

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The type of citrus juicer you use will depend on the number of oranges you have to use and your budget. Just a couple of oranges? This hand juicer is quick and convenient.

More oranges? This pressure-activated citrus juicer works very well and is easy to clean.

But once I could purchase this citrus press, I juiced 10 times the amount of oranges in the same amount of time. If you have access each year to abundant citrus, it may be worth it to upgrade.

My mom and I shared one for several years and took turns juicing our oranges. I’ve had mine since 2012 and have juiced (literally) thousands of oranges.

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Tip #3: Get the most juice possible from the oranges

If your oranges are cold, let them come to room temperature before juicing. They seem to release more juice when warm than cold.

Rolling the oranges before juicing may also help yield more juice. To roll the oranges, place them under the palm of your hand and exert light pressure while rolling them around on hard surfaces such as your kitchen counter.

Wash the oranges thoroughly to get rid of any dirt or debris. Then, place the oranges on a cutting board and slice them in half with a sharp knife. Once done, juice the oranges with your preferred juicer.

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Bonus Tip: Store fresh-squeezed juice correctly for the best taste and longest storage life

Storing orange juice correctly is essential to maintaining its freshness and flavor. Freshly squeezed orange juice is best stored in airtight containers in the refrigerator. Fresh squeezed juice stores well in the refrigerator for about three weeks.

Fresh juice separates and needs to be remixed before drinking. Plunger-type mixing pitchers are perfect for short-term juice storage in the fridge. When you are ready to drink the juice, mix it before pouring it.

Freshly squeezed citrus juice can also be frozen, but it should be stored in an airtight container, leaving some headspace for expansion during freezing. For the best taste, use frozen juice within 12 months. To use frozen juice, let it unthaw in the fridge overnight.

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If you’re a gardener—and since you picked up this magazine I’m guessing you are—you probably get peppered with plant questions all the time. I know I do. Take Thanksgiving just this past year. My dad was looking for some trees that would “subtly block” his neighbors who had recently put a pool in their backyard. So in between doling out mashed potatoes and deciding if I wanted apple or pumpkin pie for dessert, I pulled out Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs from the nearby bookshelf to spark some suggestions. (That illustrated encyclopedia was a Christmas gift a few years back to help my dad make plant choices without my help. Its successfulness in doing so is still up for debate.) This same scenario takes place at summer picnics, children’s birthday parties, or even on planes when my seatmate asks what I do for a living. After I answer, it’s common to hear, “Wow, that’s so interesting. Listen, I have this spot where I need something …” Most of these inquiries center around trees too—and I get it. A tree is an investment with a capital “I.” Not only is a tree the single most expensive plant you will likely purchase for your landscape, but it is also the longest lived. Trees don’t like to be moved, they generally require a bit more effort to get established than a perennial or shrub, and they are usually the focal point of a specific area. For all of these reasons, everyone wants to choose the right tree.

I have a fair number of trees in my garden, but after reading Andy Pulte’s article “Nine Fantastic Flowering Trees”, I realize I need more. That’s not because the ones I have are lacking in some way, but because most of them are spring stars and don’t add much (except structure) to the landscape the rest of the year. My absolute favorite tree, and the one I recommend most often to others, is redbud (Cercis spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9). You’ll find a few species and cultivars of that tree in my beds, and when they burst into bloom in May, it’s truly a sight to behold. The buds shoot straight out of the bark, which is an unusual trait and helps this small tree stand out, since its heart-shaped foliage follows only after the blossoms have fallen away. I love the magenta-pink flowers so much that I’ve been known to paint my fingernails a similar color in spring (which helps hide the dirt beneath them brilliantly). Andy recommends a redbud cultivar that falls more into the dark red range, which I now need to round out my redbud collection. Read further into the article, though, and you’ll discover other flowering-tree suggestions for later in the season, including a magnolia with blossoms the size of my head. That one’s going on my must-have list as well. I have a lot of spectacular spring bloomers and a decent array of woodies with fall color, but the dog days are missing some standout trees.

Back at my dad’s house, we settled on some assorted hollies (Ilex spp. and cvs., Zones 2–9) to plant along the property line. They do flower (though insignificantly). The real appeal, though, is the evergreen foliage and quick growth rate that are going to help camouflage the cannonball competition taking place in the neighbor’s backyard very soon. In the end, flowers are great, but privacy is better.

—Danielle Sherry, executive editor

Photos: Danielle Sherry

Issue 216 coming soon

See the article Danielle references in her letter:

9 Fantastic Flowering Trees

Then learn how to get the most out of these beauties with: 4 Essential Tips for Pruning Flowering Trees

While gardeners often extol the virtues of outstanding bark and winter interest, let’s not kid ourselves—flower power reigns supreme. A tree that is a stately focal point most of the year will be transformed into an awe-inspiring centerpiece by spectacular blooms. Spring-flowering trees often occupy prime garden real estate, but for some easy, unexpected floral elegance, it is truly worthwhile to plant trees that bloom in summer, fall, or even late winter. Many of my favorites even have dazzling displays when they aren’t in bloom. Here are some excellent choices for you to consider.

 

Early Bloomers Chase Winter’s Chill Away

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When it seems like spring will never come, seeing branches laden with buds gives us hope that warmer weather is on its way.

‘Appalachian Red’ redbud illuminates the garden with a unique hue

Name: Cercis canadensis ‘Appalachian Red’

Zones: 4–9

Size: 15 to 25 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moderately moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Eastern and central North America

First bloom: Early spring

Redbud is going to be on almost every list of spring-flowering trees. If I had to choose just one for its color and impact, this would be it. New cultivars with unique growing forms or foliage have flooded the market, but cultivars with distinctly different flower colors are hard to find. In this category, ‘Appalachian Red’ is a real standout with its reddish-pink, pealike blooms. Found over 30 years ago by Max Byrkit near the Appalachian Trail in Maryland, it is a true classic that will set your spring garden apart from the crowd.

 

Japanese flowering apricot adorns its bare branches with graceful, timeless blooms

Name: Prunus mume

Zones: 6–9

Size: 15 to 20 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist, acidic, humus-rich soil

Native range: Central and southern China

First bloom: Late winter

During a gray-sky week in late January, I can often count on this early bloomer to brighten my day. “Underutilized” is an under­statement for this delight­ful small tree, which really should be grown more widely. Japanese apricot flowers when few other trees are in bloom. Hundreds of cultivars are available in shades of pink, white, and red, and in both single and double forms. Its season of beauty is extended by its exfoliating bark, which reveals beautiful cinnamon undertones where it falls away.

 

‘Humilis’ red buckeye is a perfect fit for smaller landscapes

Name: Aesculus pavia ‘Humilis’

Zones: 4–8

Size: 15 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Eastern North America

First bloom: Early to mid-spring

When it is first planted, ‘Humilis’ will be shrublike, but as it matures it will gradually transition into a small deciduous tree. Its leaves emerge very early in the season, preceding the 4- to 8-inch panicles of flowers that appear to float above the foliage. These often emerge just as the fear of frost starts to dissipate. Compared to the straight species, which can grow 20 or 30 feet tall, ‘Humilis’ has a more compact stature, and its flower clusters are smaller.

 

Summer Bloomers Should Offer Multiple Seasons of Interest

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As the garden year rolls toward its peak, it’s helpful to have focal points that elevate and harmonize with ground-level flushes of color.

Bigleaf magnolia could easily become a neighborhood landmark

Name: Magnolia macrophylla

Zones: 5–8

Size: 30 to 40 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist, rich, well-drained soil

Native range: Southeastern United States, eastern Mexico

First bloom: Early to midsummer

With fragrant, 16-inch flowers and leaves up to 2 or 3 feet long, bigleaf magnolia looks almost too tropical for words. In fact, it has the largest simple leaves and flowers of any deciduous tree indigenous to North America. It prefers a sheltered spot with moist, fertile soil. Give it plenty of room to grow; if its loosely pyramidal habit is not ­crowded, its limbs will often stretch low and wide, bringing those spectacular flowers down to eye level.

 

American smoke tree provides airy texture and sizzling fall color

Name: Cotinus obovatus

Zones: 3–8

Size: 20 to 30 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to dry, well-drained soil

Native range: Southern United States

First bloom: Midsummer

It is a true experience to see an American smoke tree in its full, billowy glory. The individual flowers are tiny and not that special, but the spent flower clusters transform into giant, smokelike pink puffs as the season progresses. After these fade, its fall foliage color stands out as one of the most vibrant and consistent of North American native trees. Over time, this plant transforms from a large shrub to a lovely and distinctive small tree.

 

Empress of China^® dogwood flowers for weeks on end

Name: Cornus elliptica ‘Elsbry’

Zones: 6–9

Size: 15 to 20 feet tall and 12 to 15 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moderately moist, well-drained soil

Native range: China

First bloom: Early to midsummer

Empress of China^® dogwood will surprise you. First, it is almost entirely evergreen through the winter months, finally shedding its leaves in spring when new foliage begins to appear. Second, it blooms far later than most garden-worthy dogwoods. A mature tree will be covered with flowers on every branch, and the display lasts for several weeks—from early summer until midsummer. Empress of China® is the most commercially available selection from the species; it is very vigorous and blooms well as a young plant. For the best show, site it in a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

 

Late Bloomers Bring the Growing Season to a Stylish Close

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For a refreshing boost of garden energy, find a tree that peaks when many perennials and shrubs are flagging in the heat. For some of these trees, the seeds that follow are even cooler than the floral display.

Variegated Japanese aralia tops flashy foliage with foamy starbursts

Name: Aralia elata* ‘Variegata’

Zones: 4–8

Size: 10 to 15 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Northeastern Asia

First bloom: Mid to late summer

Perhaps this is a guilty pleasure and more of a diva than other plants listed, but variegated Japanese aralia is a plant that stops me in my tracks whenever I see it. At the height of summer, massive white flowers appear in huge panicles measuring 12 to 18 inches in diameter. The flowers are complemented by huge compound leaves that can approach 3 feet long. Cultivars like this are grafted onto root stock of the straight species, so care needs to be taken to control the nonvariegated suckers that often develop. There’s no denying that this tree is a bit high-maintenance; whether it’s worth the effort is up to you.

 

Sweetheart tree saves its best display for the end of summer

Name: Euscaphis japonica

Zones: 6–8

Size: 12 to 20 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moderately moist, well-drained soil

Native range: China, Korea, Japan

First bloom: Late spring to early summer; showy seeds form in late summer

Sweetheart tree is actually an early summer bloomer, forming broad panicles of yellowish-white flowers. However, it is what happens next that will capture your attention. In the last part of summer, seedpods with a pink exterior and red interior begin to form, and as each pod opens it reveals a shiny black seed. As a fall finale, its shiny, compound leaves turn a coppery purple. Euscaphis is still being tested by gardeners to fully assess its garden worthiness, but my vote is yes.

 

Sourwood is showy from midsummer through fall

Name: Oxydendrum arboretum

Zones: 5–9 size: 20 to 30 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to full shade; moist, organically rich, well-drained soil

Native range: Eastern United States

First bloom: Mid to late summer

Sourwood often blooms in early July here in the Southeast, and its relatively large, drooping panicles of bell-shaped flowers persist for several weeks. These are very charming in their own right, and when they fade you will get an extended period of interest as the seeds develop. Spent inflorescences ­remain present and beautiful through fall, and ­autumnal foliage coloration is spectacular with bright reds, purples, and yellows present on different populations. This tree is not fond of urban conditions or of being transplanted as a large specimen.

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*Invasive Alert:

Japanese aralia (Aralia elata)

This plant is considered invasive in MD, NH, NJ, NY, and PA.

Please visit invasiveplantatlas.org for more information.

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Andy Pulte, Ph.D., is a faculty member in the plant sciences department at the University of Tennessee.

Photos, except where noted: millettephotomedia.com

Sources

The following mail-order sellers offer many of the plants featured here:

Pruning can be intimidating. Many of us fear making a mistake our plants won’t recover from. Overall, trees are resilient; with a little practice and know-how, any gardener should be able to tackle this task. Here are some things to keep in mind before grabbing the saw.

1. Ask yourself why you are pruning

Removing dead limbs and improving the overall structure of the tree are the top reasons to prune. If you are consistently pruning to control size, think about replacing the tree with something that is more in scale with your landscape.

2. Be aware of when your tree forms flower buds

Pruning can affect flowering if it is done at the wrong time of year. It is best to prune spring-flowering trees shortly after they finish blooming, while trees that bloom in summer and fall should be pruned before substantial new growth begins in spring.

Discover author Andy Pulte‘s favorite flowering trees for every season. Spring-flowering trees often occupy prime garden real estate, but for some easy, unexpected floral elegance, it is truly worthwhile to plant trees that bloom in summer, fall, or even late winter.

 

3. Under certain conditions, pruning will stimulate new growth

Less pruning can lead to overall slower growth, which can be desirable for the overall long-term health of the tree.

4. Practice how to make proper pruning cuts

Branches larger than your thumb should be cut using a three-step pruning method.

• First cut (A): Begin by making a small incision on the underside of the branch, about 6 to 12 inches away from the trunk. This cut should be about a third of the way through the branch, starting from the bottom. It will prevent the branch from splitting and the bark from tearing when you make the next cut.
• Second cut (B): This cut is made from the top of the branch and is positioned a little farther out from the tree trunk and slightly above the first cut. It will remove most of the branch, leaving a short stub.
• Final cut (C): Make the final cut just outside the branch collar, which is the slightly swollen area where the branch connects to the tree trunk. This cut removes the remaining stub and should be clean and smooth. It is essential not to cut into the branch collar.

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Andy Pulte, Ph.D., is a faculty member in the plant sciences department at the University of Tennessee.

 

More on pruning:

In the depths of winter the focus on what happens under our feet is generally centered around staying safe and minimizing slips, trips, and falls on steps or walkways covered in snow or ice. But while safety is a worthwhile concern, gardeners must also consider the detrimental long-term effects on soil health that can be caused by products commonly used to remediate dangerous winter conditions.

Avoid salting near your garden

Sodium chloride, commonly called salt, is by far the most available and frequently used product for melting ice and snow. It is very effective, widely available, and affordable, but as snow and ice melt, salty water travels very easily out of its intended treatment area and into surrounding soil and storm drains. In garden beds its effects on plant material and soil life can be extremely harmful. Deciduous trees and shrubs exposed to salt may exhibit symptoms such as leaf scorch, twig dieback, stunted growth, or even death if the salt accumulation reaches to toxic levels. Evergreens will develop twig dieback and yellowing needles.

Luckily, many options are available that are less toxic and equally effective. With a bit of elbow grease and innovative thinking we can reduce the amount of toxic chemicals entering our storm sewers and garden beds.

Products containing calcium chloride, potassium chloride, and magnesium chloride are significantly less detrimental to soil and plant health. These widely available products melt frozen sidewalks as efficiently as salt does, but with fewer negative environmental consequences. Read the labels when purchasing these products to be certain you are taking home the correct formulation.

Alternative methods to combat slippery conditions

Areas that receive a lot of foot traffic may require chemical treatment to eliminate slippery conditions. However, for less frequently traveled areas there are many options that will provide a little extra traction. Scattering sand, kitty litter, or crushed granite over the frozen walking surface will add some grip and make the pathway much safer for travel.

Wood chips or wood shavings can also be used in this manner, and these organic materials can simply be swept into beds when they are no longer needed. The wood shavings break down quickly, adding organic matter to your soil, and wood chips can act as an early mulch to help you get a jump on early-season weed suppression.

Coffee grounds and wood ash may be used similarly to add traction and act as a beneficial soil amendment. The dark color of the ash or coffee grounds absorbs the sun’s energy, which can help speed up the melting process.

In a moment of desperation I have even used birdseed for traction. It did the trick but resulted in some unexpected feathered visitors as well as new unintended weed friends the following spring.

Using snow rather than losing it

Avoidance may be the best method of them all. Small walkways, steps, or stoops can be covered by an inexpensive tarp, a sheet of plastic, or a few layers of newspaper before the precipitation starts. Once the snow has stopped falling, carefully remove these barriers and pile the snow in a garden bed or lawn, where it can melt naturally.

As a side note, snow has many benefits for soil and plant health. It acts as an insulator and can moderate soil temperatures, creating a microclimate called the subnivium where some plants can grow and take advantage of the filtered light and available moisture. A snow layer of 2 inches or more also insulates overwintering insects and other creatures. In addition, as snow forms and falls through the atmosphere, it captures airborne ammonium, nitrate, and organic nitrogen. As the snow melts these particles are released, acting as a slow-release nitrogen source. To learn more about this phenomenon, check out Snow: Poor Man’s Fertilizer.

If salt must be used

A lesser-known organic product that has recently started to grow in popularity is sugar beet juice. Known to be effective in temperatures as low as –25°C when combined with salt brine or rock salt, it is a highly effective and inexpensive product and is gaining popularity in municipalities that experience extremely low temperatures. There are commercially available products that contain a mix of sugar beet juice and sodium chloride, significantly reducing the concentration of salt needed for effective ice removal.

If you must use salt, mechanically removing as much snow or ice as you can before applying salt will significantly reduce the amount of product needed to clear a path. Any salt that remains on surfaces after the snow and ice melt can be swept up and saved for a later application. A deep watering of surrounding areas in spring will help wash the sodium deeper into the soil and out of range of most of many plants’ root zones.

 

Further reading:

For more Mid-Atlantic regional reports, click here.

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Adam Glas is a garden supervisor and rosarian at the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College in Swarthmore, Pennsylvania. 

Photos: Adam Glas 

No garden is complete without at least a few containers for seasonal color. I always specify locations for planters when I create a new landscape design, with the intention of keeping them filled in every season. Although many gardeners keep their containers filled with annuals in summer and cut greenery in winter, there is another option. Planting a dwarf evergreen that can remain in its pot for several seasons will provide structure and texture every month of the year.

When choosing an evergreen shrub or tree for an outdoor planter, look for cultivars that are hardy one zone colder than your area. In other words, if you live in Zone 5, your selection should be hardy to Zone 4 or below. Growing conditions for plants in a container are harsher than they are for plants in the ground, so additional resilience is necessary.

Your next decisions are aesthetic: Are you looking for something tall and formal, low and spreading, or something entirely different? Here are a few options to get your search started.

Boxwoods look formal and tidy

If you need a plant that is easy to manage and has a classic look, a boxwood (Buxus spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9) is a perfect choice. My two favorites are ‘Green Velvet’, which has a globe form, and ‘Green Mountain’ (pictured), which has a loosely pyramidal form. Having used these almost exclusively for over 20 years, I can attest to their hardiness and resilience in containers. Among the most commonly used evergreens for containers, boxwoods lend themselves to being pruned to almost any shape or size, or they can be left in their natural form. A coat of anti-desiccant spray applied in early winter will help reduce foliar damage and dehydration.

For cool, silvery color, choose a dwarf blue spruce

If you’d like to to add some cool silvery-blue color to your containers, dwarf spruces offer many attractive options. ‘Glauca Globosa’ blue spruce (Picea pungens ‘Glauca Globosa’, Zones 2–8) makes a bold statement in a large container, perhaps even more dramatic than when it is planted in the ground. Elevated by a pot, the blue foliage becomes a sculptural statement, and the tree’s ability to be moved around your garden spaces is a bonus. Moderate to slow growing, it can remain happy in the same pot for many years.

A dwarf Mugo pine delivers big texture in a small package

Striking and ornamental, pines are available in a diverse variety of forms. ‘Sherwood Compact’ mugo pine (Pinus mugo ‘Sherwood Compact’, Zones 2–7) is a dwarf variety that stays under 3 feet tall and wide, making it perfect for anchoring a container design. This exceptionally hardy and compact mugo pine is perfect for a container in full sun. Strategic spring candle pruning can be used if you prefer to keep its compact form even more condensed.

Whichever selection you make, adding evergreens to your containers will transform your garden by extending its beauty into every season.

 

Learn more:

For more Midwest regional reports, click here.

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Marti Neely, FAPLD, owns and operates Marti Neely Design and Associates in Omaha, Nebraska.

While many of us think of trees as super-tall giants or stand-alone specimen plants, we also know that most trees naturally grow in forests and that forests aren’t all made up only of tall trees. There are trees that mature at different levels, and certain trees prefer growing in the dappled light of their taller neighbors. We call these understory trees, and there are many that work well in our home gardens, adding interesting forms and structures, colorful blooms, or intriguing foliage. They also can provide food and shelter for wildlife. The following trees and shrubs all take full sun to partial shade. So if you’ve got some dappled shade under a tall canopy of trees, consider one of these excellent options.

Serviceberry

Amelanchier canadensis, Zones 4–8

There’s a good reason why the once-overlooked serviceberry has become the darling of landscape designers looking to include more native plants in their designs. This is a native tree that seems to offer the complete package: hardiness, early spring flowers, and spectacular fall foliage.

Nurseries offer many newer named selections, each offering a different benefit, such as straighter stems or trunks or larger fruit. You may notice that a garden center might offer both shrubby plants as well as single-stemmed trees in nursery containers, but you should know early on what you want, as it’s difficult to train a shrubby specimen to grow as a perfectly shaped tree, or vice versa. It seems that each serviceberry has its own personality and habit, and ultimately you just can’t convince one to grow a certain way, especially if you want a taller single-trunked tree.

That said, few natives are as useful in the northeastern garden. Hardy to Zone 4 and growing up to 30 feet tall, serviceberry is often the first plant to bloom in most gardens, even beating out forsythia (Forsythia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9). As such, it’s naturally a valuable pollinator plant, and those white clouds of flowers mean that there’s a lot of valuable edible fruit for native birds in late summer. As with most members of the rose family, ripe serviceberry fruits are edible, and they are commonly used to make delicious violet-colored jams.

‘Argentea’ pagoda dogwood

Cornus alternifolia ‘Argentea’, Zones 3–7

Few trees are as attractive as this variegated nativar. Pagoda dogwood forms its branches in clearly defined tiers parallel to the ground. This unique habit is very distinctive. The flat tiers viewed from a distance are stunning.

Be prepared for a pagoda dogwood to grow as wide as it is tall. Mature specimens can reach up to 25 feet tall. The horizontal branches should never be cut or trimmed. This tree enjoys acidic soil and rich woodland loam that remains somewhat moist, but not too wet, throughout summer.

A trick to get this tree established adequately is to choose a young one with a distinct leader. As with many dogwoods, the roots are fibrous and sensitive to transplant shock, so avoid disturbing the rootball.

While this tree is a dogwood, it isn’t known for its showy floral display. It blooms in early summer, when every branch is covered with a flat network of umbels containing tiny flowers that attract pollinators. Still, who needs flowers when the variegated form of this tree looks as if it’s in bloom from early spring until autumn?

‘Hartlage Wine’ sweetshrub

 Calycanthus × raulstonii ‘Hartlage Wine’

This shrub is the result of a cross between our native eastern sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus, Zones 4–9), also called Carolina allspice, and a closely related Asian species, Chinese sweetshrub (Calycanthus chinensis, Zones 6–8). ‘Hartlage Wine’ and the other named selections of this cross grow larger than eastern sweetshrub at 10 feet or taller.

Glossy leaves appear in late spring on multiple branches, but large, slightly fragrant red-wine flowers steal the show in late spring or early summer. The late appearance of these flowers means that they avoid any frost damage.

‘Hartlage Wine’ sweetshrub should be pruned from an early age, which is the ideal time to decide if you want it to grow as a small tree or as a multistemmed shrub. If you prefer the latter, allow the many root suckers to form multiple trunks, which can be highly effective if you use the plant as a property divider or to hide a neighbor’s swimming pool.

Rarely affected by diseases or pests, ‘Hartlage Wine’ grows best under tall deciduous trees or in an open spot that receives some shade from nearby buildings. It’s a natural choice for woodland gardens or mixed shrub borders where the soil remains moist and ideally is rich with leaf mold or loam, as a forest setting might offer. This shrub is also deer tolerant and a vigorous grower.

Perennials are not the only plants you can grow underneath taller trees. Try out any one of these stunning shrubs or trees to add some pizazz to your understory.

 

For more about planting in an understory, check out:

For more Northeast regional reports, click here.

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Matt Mattus is the author of two books: Mastering the Art of Flower Gardening and Mastering the Art of Vegetable Gardening. He gardens in Worcester, Massachusetts.

Photos: Matt Mattus

Flittering, twittering, and singing—birds bring so much life to a garden. Apart from their beauty and pleasant songs, they also add to the biodiversity of our landscapes by spreading seeds and eating insect pests. How can we encourage birds to not only visit our yards but to nest there? Here’s a hint: it goes beyond hanging up a bird feeder. You must provide sustenance and shelter for birds to truly thrive in your garden. Here are some tips to attract them and make them want to stay.

Plant trees, shrubs, and perennials that birds can eat from

While a large component of many birds’ diets is protein-packed insects, additional food sources are invaluable in the colder months. Certain Southeast native perennials and shrubs, such as American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana, Zones 5–9) and pokeweed (Phytolacca americana, Zones 4–9), offer delectable berries for birds after the blooms have faded. Beautyberry is a favorite among warblers, while cardinals and eastern bluebirds flock to pokeweed.

Other natives, such as purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea, Zones 3-9) and false sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides, Zones 4–9), entice birds with edible seeds. Larger birds will swoop in after the seeds fall to the ground, but tiny goldfinches may decide to go for a ride on the bobbing flower stalks to get their meal right from the source. Not to be outdone, native grasses supply seeds as well as shelter and nesting material. Waiting until early spring to cut back these perennials will allow birds to forage in the late fall and winter.

Here’s a list of other native shrubs and perennials that produce seeds or berries that birds love to eat:

Shrubs

Perennials

Install a bird feeder and a birdbath

Let’s be honest—the joy of gardening for birds lies in seeing them, and many of us relish the interactivity of refilling feeders and baths. Ideally a supplemental food source, bird feeders are wonderful when used properly but detrimental when not. They should be placed away from roads and potential predators, especially cats. Over time, the bird seed in feeders will decay, and they should be cleaned regularly to avoid spreading illness. The ornithologists at the Cornell Lab advise cleaning seed feeders once every two weeks with hot, soapy water or diluted bleach.

Birds love to bathe, but the typical birdbaths found at garden centers are often too deep to be functional. A bath with a shallow basin (gently sloping and no more than 3 inches deep at the center) and the addition of sticks and rocks for perching will be more accessible. As with feeders, the best bath is a clean one. Glazed ceramic or even sturdy plastic are easy materials to scrub. Birds appreciate a bath that is positioned close enough to the safety of shrubs, but not so close that they become an easy meal for creeping cats.

Provide opportunities for birds to nest

Including small trees and shrubs in your landscape is the most effective way to encourage a variety of bird species to nest. This is an especially good consideration in fall, when it’s prime opportunity for planting trees and shrubs in the Southeast.

That said, there’s no replacement for the delight in putting up a birdhouse and seeing a new family “move in.” A well-placed birdhouse can bring lovely structural interest to a garden, or tie a meadow together in a way that says “intentional” rather than “unmowed.”

There are some pitfalls to avoid when choosing or building a birdhouse. It should have an access door for easy cleaning. It should have ventilation holes at the top that provide airflow and drainage holes at the bottom that allow water to run out. A shaded or partially shaded spot can help keep the heat off the roof of a birdhouse during the hottest part of the day, although sufficiently thick walls and ventilation should insulate against temperature extremes.

Birdhouses, like feeders and baths, should be sited to avoid predators. Guards such as stovepipe baffles can help prevent snakes and squirrels from climbing up a birdhouse pole for an easy meal. The access hole of a birdhouse should be only as large as the desired bird requires (a size-limiting predator guard can be added to get it down to size). If you want to attract a specific bird, research online the size of the hole it needs in a birdhouse. While birdhouse perches are evocative of the classic image we know and love, they are unnecessary and only make it easier for aggressive birds like house sparrows and other predators to disrupt the nest.

When it comes to construction, natural materials are best. Any nontoxic paints, stains, or decorative elements should be kept on the outside of the box, and toxic components avoided altogether. Birdhouses can be purchased with a critical eye or constructed at home from untreated wood. The Cornell Lab’s “Nestwatch” is the ultimate resource for nesting box plans to attract specific species, from Carolina chickadees to purple martins and great blue herons. Click here for a list of other birds you might see nesting in your birdhouse.

Avoid synthetic weedkillers and pesticides

Birds rely on insects for much of their food, and the use of synthetic pesticides can harm birds both indirectly by reducing the insect population and directly if a bird ingests an insect killed through the use of pesticides. Rodents killed using poison can also harm larger birds of prey who eat them. Exposure to synthetic weedkillers has also been known to affect several organisms throughout the ecosystem, including birds. When looking to kill weeds or pests, turn to all natural, nontoxic products instead.

By planting bird-friendly plants, adding a birdbath, birdhouse, or bird feeder, and avoiding the use of toxic chemicals, you can attract birds to your garden and enjoy their presence year-round.

 

For more information on gardening for birds, check out:

And for more Southeast regional reports, click here.

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Cheyenne Wine is a writer and photographer for Rare Roots Nursery in Mechanicsville, Virginia.

Photos, unless otherwise noted: Cheyenne Wine

Some people choose to dig down a foot or so to amend the soil and improve drainage. Others choose to put a layer of soil in the base of the structure. You might also use pots or trays inside the cold frame.

One of the most important considerations is where you locate your structure.

Find yourself a spot in full sun on the south side of any tall buildings or trees. If you place it on the north, west, or east side of a building, it won’t receive full sun.

While you can float the structure out in the middle of a garden, field, or yard, a lot of gardeners like to place the cold frame against a building.

Placing it next to a brick wall can increase the heat inside the the structure a bit.

Most cold frames are designed to be slightly higher on one end and lower on the other to facilitate water runoff.

You don’t want the walls to be too tall or they will reduce the amount of light reaching the interior. But they can’t be too short, either. For example, a six-inch-high structure doesn’t allow for very tall plants.

A good compromise is a structure that’s about 18 inches tall in the back and nine inches in the front.

While there are no standard dimensions for a cold frame, you want to make sure it’s large enough to be useful but small enough to be accessible. Six feet long and three feet wide is about right.

Structures made from brick or concrete will stay warmer than those with wooden walls, but they typically cost more to construct. The same applies if you use double-pane glass versus something like a single piece of plastic.

The walls of the frame are typically permanent and you access the garden through the top, which is made out of a clear material.

You don’t have to hinge the lid, but a lot of people choose to. This makes it easier to prop it up to let in some air, and it keeps things in place.

But if you can’t afford or don’t want to hinge yours, you can always just lift up the clear cover and move it to the side when you need to access the garden.

When using a cold frame, there are a few things that can help you make the most of the structure.

If you can heap straw, cardboard, or soil around the outside walls of the structure, that will help insulate it and retain more warmth inside. You can also cover it with a blanket at night to help retain a little extra heat.

You should also try to grow the plants closer together than you normally would. This helps increase the temperature, too.

1. Starting Seeds

Cold frames are indispensable for starting seeds in spring. For plants like tomatoes, peppers, and other heat-loving species, it’s best to start these indoors or in a greenhouse.

The structures can help to protect plants from frost, but they aren’t significantly warmer than the surrounding environment and likely won’t be warm enough for heat-lovers unless you already live somewhere like USDA Hardiness Zone 7 and up.

By the way, if you’re curious about how to grow in a greenhouse, check out our beginner’s guide.

As a rule of thumb, your cold frame can increase the ambient outdoor temperature by about 10°F.

Cold-weather seeds can be started with no trouble, even if there is a pile of snow on the ground. Many species are tolerant of low temperatures and won’t be killed by a freeze.

Start seeds like beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, collards, endive, kohlrabi, lettuce, parsley, radishes, and spinach in pots or seed trays in your cold frame and watch the magic happen.

Keep the soil evenly moist and open the lid if the temperatures happen to climb above 60°F. Heat can build up rapidly when there is direct sunlight on the glass.

One of the best parts of starting seeds this way is that you can harden off the seedlings right where they are. Just open the lid for a bit longer each day until the last predicted frost date has passed.

For additional tips and other ways to use cold frames in the spring, check out our guide.

2. Harden Off Seedlings

When you start seeds indoors, you should always harden them off before transplanting outside. But sometimes a surprise rain, freeze, strong wind, or other inclement weather can derail your progress.

You can harden off seedlings in the cold frame, and you don’t have to worry about any surprises.

Using a cold frame also makes the process easier. Bringing pots in and outside can be a nuisance.

You can leave the seedlings in the structure and just open and close the top as needed to gradually introduce the seedlings to the real world. Just don’t start the process when there are days predicted to be below 32°F.

If you’re worried about your seedlings receiving too much sunlight, just toss a blanket or some shade cloth on top of the structure for a few hours in the afternoon.

Most seedlings should be hardened off over a period of a week or two.

Depending on how sensitive the plants are, you’ll want to leave the plant exposed to the sun and outdoor conditions for a half hour to an hour on the first day. Add a half hour to an hour the next day.

Keep adding a half hour to an hour each day for a week to 10 days. At this point you can plant them in their permanent home.

3. Grow Cold-Hardy Plants During Fall and Winter

Plants like claytonia, lettuce, mache, spinach, and radishes can live outside full-time in the winter in some areas.

You can assume that the temperature in the cold frame will be about 10°F higher than the surrounding environment and plant your vegetables and herbs accordingly.

Start seeds in late summer or fall, and you can be enjoying fresh vegetables well past the holidays.

You’ll need a fresh layer of soil at the bottom. I like to mix in some well-rotted compost to loosen up the soil and improve the nutrition profile.

These structures are also useful if you live in a warmer area that receives a lot of rain in the winter, like the Pacific Northwest. In these areas, the biggest challenge isn’t cold temperatures but too much rain.

You can simply close up the structure and open it when you need to add a little water.

For specific information about how to cultivate plants in a cold frame during the fall, visit our guide.

4. Extend the Growing Season

There are some plants that require a longer growing season than Mother Nature provides in certain areas.

For me in the Pacific Northwest, it’s a struggle to grow tomatoes and peppers that need lots of warm days because even though we don’t have early or late freezes, we only have a handful of hot days.

I will start my tomatoes in the cold frame and then open it as the days heat up. As the fall arrives, I close the structure again to trap the heat.

You can do something similar with any plant that typically doesn’t have enough time to mature in your neck of the woods.

Put the plant in the cold frame a few weeks before the last frost and keep it closed to allow the heat to build up.

As the days become warm enough, you can gradually start opening the structure for increasing amounts of time until it can remain open all summer until the first frost in the fall.

When the first frost arrives, close up the cold frame. You’ll have several more weeks of additional growing time in the protected microclimate.

5. Overwinter Dormant Plants

If you grow ornamentals like fuchsia (Fuchsia spp.), geraniums (Pelargonium and Geranium spp.), and hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.), you probably know that these plants are actually perennials, not annuals, even though many of us grow them that way.

If you keep them alive throughout the winter, they will come back the next year. This can be done by overwintering in a cold frame.

Some tender rhizomes, bulbs, and corms need to be overwintered in a warm area as well.

Dahlias (Dahlia spp.), canna (Canna spp.), and gladiolus (Gladiolus spp.) are often dug up and stored in garages and basements, but a cold frame also works well.

To overwinter tender perennials, trim the plant back to a few inches above the ground, dig it up or remove it from the container, and plant it directly in the soil in the cold frame.

Top the soil around the plant with some mulch to keep the roots warm, but keep the mulch from touching the stems.

You can leave plants in their containers if they don’t need the extra insulation around the roots, but I find most plants do better in the ground. If you leave them in pots, wrap the containers with blankets or cardboard.

Dormant plants need very little water. If you water them as much as you do when they’re growing, they will be susceptible to root rot. Don’t water until the soil has dried out at least a few inches down.

You also want to reduce the amount of light the plants receive. I secure a piece of shade cloth over the glass, but do whatever works for you.

Dormant plants require about a fifth of the amount of light that they would during the growing season. So for a plant that enjoys 10 hours of sun per day, about two hours should be sufficient during the dormant season.

Learn more about overwintering plants in a cold frame in our guide.

In the case of tubers or bulbs you’ve dug up, these need to stay dry and not be exposed to light.

Lay down a layer of straw and place the tubers or bulbs on top. Cover them with more straw. If you can’t put enough straw on top, add a layer of newspaper to keep them in the dark.

On days that climb over 50°F, open the cover to let some cool air in to prevent overheating.