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  • World Record Giant Pumpkin by Year

    World Record Giant Pumpkin by Year

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    Over the course of 130 years, spanning from 1893 to 2023, the cultivation of giant pumpkins has undergone a remarkable evolution. In 1893, the exploration of oversized pumpkins was in its nascent stages, marked by growers experimenting with novel approaches. Fast forward to 2023, and the quest for world records in giant pumpkin weights has burgeoned into a global phenomenon. Contemporary growers leverage advanced cultivation techniques, innovative fertilizers, and meticulous care to foster giant pumpkins, consistently shattering previous records.

    The giant pumpkin community has evolved into a tightly-knit global network, sharing valuable insights and coveted seeds to continually push the boundaries of pumpkin growth. The journey from modest beginnings to the extraordinary sizes achieved in 2023 not only underscores the unwavering dedication of growers but also highlights the captivating allure of record-breaking achievements in the realm of giant pumpkins. Remember, growing a record pumpkin is based on luck.

    2023

    Travis Gienger, Minnesota, United States – 2749 lb (1246.9 kg)

    World record Giant pumpkin by Country, State, and Province RecordsWorld record Giant pumpkin by Country, State, and Province Records
    2023 World Record Pumpkin 2749 pounds grown by Travis Gienger

    Travis is a yearly champion who has successfully grown pumpkins above 2000 lbs.

    2021

    Stefano Cutrupi, Tuscani, Italy – 2703 lb (1226 kg)

    Stefano was well aware of the impressive size of his pumpkin, both visually and through measured statistics. However, it wasn’t until he weighed the monstrous pumpkin that he realized he had achieved a new world record for pumpkin weight. The sheer magnitude of the weight added an unexpected and thrilling dimension to his accomplishment, making it a truly remarkable feat.

    2016

    Mathias Willemijns, Belgium – 2625 lbs (1190.7 kg)

    In 2016, the world’s heaviest pumpkin weighed in at 2,625 pounds, grown by Belgian Mathia Willemijn. He broke the then record of 2,324 pounds set in 2014 by Germany’s Beni Meier. Meier broke Californian Tim Matheson’s 2013 record of 2,032 pounds. In 2012, Rhode Islander Ron Wallace was the first to crack one ton at 2,009 lbs. In 2006, Wallace previously held the record at just 1,502 pounds.

    2624.6 Willemijns World Largest Pumpkin Records2624.6 Willemijns World Largest Pumpkin Records

    2014

    Beni Meier, Switzerland – 2324 lbs (1054 kg)

    Would you believe the weight of this World Record pumpkin wouldn’t qualify as one of the Top 10 Biggest pumpkins in the world? Beni Meier has done it again by breaking the world record for the third time in one season. 2324 Pounds is the new world record and is the first pumpkin over one metric ton. (1054 Kg’s)

    World record pumpkin 2014 2324World record pumpkin 2014 2324

    2013

    Tim Mathison, California, United States – 2032 lbs (921.7 kg)

    The pumpkin, grown in lumber salesman Tim Mathison’s backyard for 105 days, set the record at the 23rd annual Giant Pumpkin Weigh-Off, hosted by Uesugi Farms over the weekend in California’s Napa Valley, according to the Napa Valley Register.

    2012

    Ron Wallace, Rhode Island, United States – 2009 lb (911.3 kg)

    Having been the first grower in the world to grow a pumpkin over 1500 pounds (1502 in 2006) as well as the first grower to eclipse the 2000-pound barrier at 2009 pounds in 2012, Ron Wallace’s pumpkins may be the only things capable of outweighing his larger-than-life presence in the world of organic gardening.  

    2011

    Jim and Kelsey Bryson, Quebec, Canada – 1819 lb (825 kg)

    Just this weekend a new world’s biggest pumpkin was crowned in Canada. Weighing in at 1818.5 pounds and grown by Jim and Kelsey Bryson of Ormstown, Quebec, the new heaviest pumpkin in the world out-weighs last year’s world-record holder (which also called the Garden home for a time) by 8 pounds!

    2010

    Chris Stevens, Wisconsin, United States – 1811 lb (821.5 kg)

    Chris grew this new world record pumpkin on the 1161 Rodonis seed and crossed it with the 1421 Stelts.

    2009

    Christy Harp, Ohio, United States – 1725 lb (782.5)

    Christy’s pumpkin weighed in at 1,725 pounds at the annual Ohio Valley Giant Pumpkin Growers weigh-off held near Canfield over the weekend.

    Contest organizers had to use a forklift to move the pumpkins and a heavy-duty hydraulic hoist to get them on the scale. She defeated nine other growers who managed to transport their pumpkins to the competition.

    2007

    Joe Jutras, Rhode Island, United States – 1689 lb (766 kg)

    2006

    Ron Wallace, Rhode Island, United States – 1502 lb (681.3 kg)

    Ron Wallace is a two-time world record holder, three – time world champion and was the first grower in the world to grow a pumpkin over 1500 pounds (1502 in 2006) and in 2012 he was the first to eclipse the 2000-pound barrier at 2009 pounds.   His passion for creating a organic fertilizer for extreme growth has led to WOW Wallace Organic Wonder. 

    2006 World record pumpkin 1502 lbs2006 World record pumpkin 1502 lbs

    2005

    Larry Checkon, Pennsylvania, United States 1469 lb (666.3 kg)

    The largest pumpkin ever grown weighed 1,469 lb (666 kg). Grown by Larry Checkon from Pennsylvania in 2005.

    2004

    Al Eaton, Ontario, Canada – 1446 lb (655.9 kg)

    Al Eaton, from Richmond, Ontario, brought the cup back to Canada in 2004 with a 1446 pound pumpkin. Gone were Howard Dill’s orange behemoth beauties. The cross was 842 Eaton x 1301 Eaton. 

    2003

    Steve Daletas, Oregon, United States – 1385 lb (628 kg)

    “I really don’t have any secrets. There are some great books out there and lots of information on the Internet. What I do is what everyone is doing, lots of hard work, and seed selection is important, genetics is important,”

    1385 Pumpkin on the weigh scale.

    2002

    Charlie Houghton, New Hampshire, United States – 1338 lb (607 kg)

    2001

    Geneva Emmons, Washington, United States – 1262 lb (572.4 kg)

    How To Grow a Big PumpkinCountry RecordsClipartPoemsPhantomCarvingFAQ’s

    How measure a pumpkin to know the weight

    2000

    1140 Dave Stelts, Ohio, United States – 1140 lb (517 kg)

    1999

    Gerry Checkon, Pennsylvania, United States 1131 lb (513 kg)

    1998

    Gary Burke, Ontario, Canada – 1092 lb (495 kg)

    1996

    1061 Nathan and Paula Zehr, New York, United States – 1061 lb (481 kg)

    Nathan and Paula Zehr pose with their 1,061-pound pumpkin that won them $50,000 at the World Pumpkin Conference competition in Clarence, N.Y. The First pumpkin to break 1000 pounds.

    1994

    Herman Bax, Ontario, Canada – 990 lb (449 kg)

    Sorry, we don’t have a photo showing this pumpkin.

    1993

    Donald Black, New York, United States – 884 lb (401 kg)

    1992

    Joel Holland, Washington, United States – 827 lb (375 kg)

    Holland says that during its peak growing period, his record pumpkin grew more than 22 pounds a day. He credits the accelerated growth to superb seeds, nutrient-rich soil, warmer-than-usual Washington weather, plenty of water, “and, of course, a lot of chicken manure.”

    1990

    Ed Gancarz, New Jersey, United States – 816.5 lb (370.4 kg)

    1989

    Gordon Thomson, Ontario, Canada – 755 lb (342.5 kg)

    1986

    Robert Gancarz, New Jersey, United States – 671 lb (304.3 kg)

    1984

    Norm Gallagher, Washington, United States – 612 lb (277.5 kg)

    1981

    Howard Dill, Nova Scotia, Canada – 493.5 lb (233.8 kg)

    1980

    Howard Dill, Nova Scotia, Canada – 459 lb (208 kg)

    1976

    Bob Ford, Pennsylvania, United States – 451 lb (204.5 kg)

    1904

    William Warnock, Ontario, Canada – 403 lb (183 kg)

    William Warnock from Goderich, Ontario grew a 365 pound squash and exhibited it at the Chicago World’s fair in 1893. In 1900, he sent a 400 pound pumpkin to the World’s fair in Paris. Four years later, in 1904, he astounded everyone with a 403 pound squash at the St. Louis World’s Fair. That squash and his 2 daughters are pictured below.

    1900

    William Warnock – 400 lb (181 kg)

    Location: Ontario Canada

    In 1900, he sent a 400 pound pumpkin to the World’s fair in Paris.

    1893

    William Warnock, Ontario, Canada – 365 lb (165.5 kg)

    William Warnock from Goderich, Ontario grew a 365 pound squash and exhibited it at the Chicago World’s fair in 1893.

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    Frederick Leeth

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  • How to Grow and Care for Weeping Cherry Trees | Gardener’s Path

    How to Grow and Care for Weeping Cherry Trees | Gardener’s Path

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    Prunus spp.

    Looking for a pendulous twist on an old favorite? Then a weeping cherry tree may be just what you need.

    Much of the time, drooping plant shoots mean that something’s wrong. But for weeping cherry trees, such droopage is normal. Actually, it’s better than normal – it’s flat-out gorgeous.

    There’s something very captivating about a cherry tree’s “weepiness.”

    Perhaps it symbolizes finding beauty in crestfallen sadness, or maybe it’s a reminder to stand tall, even when the world is bringing you down – its aesthetic can inspire many different takeaways.

    A horizontal image of a line of pink weeping cherry trees growing in sunny outdoor conditions.A horizontal image of a line of pink weeping cherry trees growing in sunny outdoor conditions.

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    It also looks natural, yet unnatural at the same time, in a way that’s delightfully uncanny.

    Much like a photorealistic tattoo, a celebrity wax statue, or the animation style of “The Polar Express,” a drooping yet healthy growing habit looks like it shouldn’t even be, yet it is.

    Metaphors and comparisons aside, these trees look quite cool. But for maximum coolness, they must be grown correctly. And to do that, you’ll need the right know-how.

    That’s what this guide is for. All the cultivation knowledge you need, right at your fingertips.

    Here’s what I’ll cover:

    What Are Weeping Cherry Trees?

    A weeping cherry tree is any variety of flowering cherry tree with soft, limp twigs, pendulous branches, and an overall cascading appearance.

    Native to Japan, China, and Korea, these plants flaunt a lovely east Asian aesthetic. I’d describe the vibe as “samurai movie backdrop,” which, coming from a nerd, is the highest of praise.

    A walking route bordered by a line of pink weeping cherry blossom trees in Kitakata, Fukushima of Japan.A walking route bordered by a line of pink weeping cherry blossom trees in Kitakata, Fukushima of Japan.

    For the most part, they’re hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 8, although some varieties can grow a bit outside this range.

    The true weeping form doesn’t occur much in nature, as most trees described as “weeping” are cultivated varieties that are selected for their weeping forms, which originally occurred as a result of genetic mutations.

    To create these plants, plantsmen typically graft weeping cherry tree scions to four- to five-foot tall rootstocks of upright cherry trees.

    Belonging to the Rosaceae family, the scions of weeping cherry trees come from many different Prunus species and hybrids: P. serrulata, Prunus x subhirtella, and Prunus x yedoensis are a few notable ones.

    A dwarf white weeping cherry tree in blossom on the grassy hill in a front garden of a gated residence.A dwarf white weeping cherry tree in blossom on the grassy hill in a front garden of a gated residence.

    These plants can grow six to 30 feet tall and five to 25 feet wide, as they are available in both dwarf and full-sized varieties.

    Flaunting oval-shaped green leaves with tapered points and serrated edges, these trees burst with single or double, white to pink flowers in spring, which attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

    After pollination, the tree produces black to red drupes, which are much smaller and less tasty than those of cherry trees that are actually grown for their fruits. But they’re still quite tasty to birds and herbivorous woodland critters!

    Weeping Cherry Propagation

    As I mentioned, weeping cherry trees are cultivated via grafting. However, these techniques can be difficult for a novice to pull off correctly, and are a bit beyond the scope of this guide.

    You could propagate via cuttings, but if you do so, you wouldn’t have the desirable traits of the rootstock. Our guide to growing ornamental flowering cherry trees provides the necessary steps.

    A horizontal image of a beautiful white weeping cherry tree blooming in early spring in front of a line of pine trees.A horizontal image of a beautiful white weeping cherry tree blooming in early spring in front of a line of pine trees.

    To get started with your own weeping cherry tree, I’d suggest purchasing a sapling from a reputable nursery for transplant into your garden.

    The best time to transplant is in early spring after the final frost, so plan your acquisition accordingly.

    Ensure that your intended planting sites have full sun exposure. Make sure each site is spaced far enough away from other plants and structures – you want your trees to reach their full size without their branches or roots bumping into anything.

    If you have bare root trees, soak their roots three to six hours before planting time. If your sapling is growing in a container, you can skip this step.

    A horizontal close-up image of a the white blossoms of a weeping cherry tree growing outdoors at Kamigamo Shrine.A horizontal close-up image of a the white blossoms of a weeping cherry tree growing outdoors at Kamigamo Shrine.

    Make sure the garden soil at the planting sites is moisture-retaining yet well-draining, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5.

    Dig your planting holes twice as deep and twice wide as your transplant’s root system or the container it’s currently growing in.

    Take your dug-out soil, mix it with equal parts compost, and then backfill the hole halfway.

    If your sapling is in a container, gently remove it and set it in the hole, making sure it’s sitting at the same depth as it was in the original container.

    For bare root transplants, create a mound of soil at the bottom of the hole, then gently spread the roots out over it, ensuring that the root collar is slightly above the soil line. Make sure the graft union is well above the soil line.

    Alternate backfilling and watering to help it all settle, and when you’re done, water in your transplants to make the soil nice and moist. Congrats, you’re done!

    How to Grow Weeping Cherries

    With your weeping cherries in-ground, let’s learn how to keep ’em around.

    Climate and Exposure Needs

    For year-round survival, these plants will need to be in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8, for the most part – certain varieties are suitable for slightly hotter or colder climates.

    A vertical image of a park bench under the shade of a fully bloomed weeping cherry blossom tree.A vertical image of a park bench under the shade of a fully bloomed weeping cherry blossom tree.

    They are tolerant of heat, snow, and frost, so they’ll do just fine on the edge of their hardiness ranges.

    A full sun location is best, so make sure to expose your weeping cherries to as much sunlight as possible.

    Soil Needs

    The perfect garden soil for a weeping cherry should be moisture-retaining, well-draining, and fertile, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. A loamy soil texture with ample humus is perfect.

    A horizontal shot of a weeping cherry tree with bright pink blooms growing to the left of a stone bird bath outdoors.A horizontal shot of a weeping cherry tree with bright pink blooms growing to the left of a stone bird bath outdoors.

    To keep the humus content up to snuff, top dress with a couple inches of compost or well-rotted manure and work it into the soil under the drip line every spring.

    Water and Fertilizer Needs

    Along with sunlight, consistent moisture is needed to power those beautiful blooms. To provide it, water deeply whenever the top three inches of soil dry out.

    Moderate moisture is absolutely essential – these trees can’t stand drought, nor wet feet.

    To encourage prolific blooming, you can apply a balanced fertilizer or one formulated for trees and shrubs once in spring.

    A close up of the packaging of Down to Earth Tree and Shrub fertilizer isolated on a white background.A close up of the packaging of Down to Earth Tree and Shrub fertilizer isolated on a white background.

    Down to Earth Tree and Shrub Fertilizer

    Use a product like Down to Earth Tree and Shrub Fertilizer, available via Arbico Organics.

    Growing Tips

    • Plant in a full sun location.
    • Fertilize once in spring.
    • Water whenever the top three inches of soil dry out.

    Pruning and Maintenance

    Other than any necessary pruning to maintain the weeping shape, these plants typically don’t need regular trimming.

    But if you do need to give your plant a haircut, wait until just before bud break in spring, and don’t remove more than a third of the plant’s branches in the process.

    Dead, damaged, and/or diseased branches can be removed whenever you notice them.

    A horizontal picture of Nakashio's weeping cherry tree. Nakashio's weeping cherry tree is designated as one of the "Five Great Cherry Trees of Shinshu Takayama Village" and is the youngest cherry tree among the Five Great Cherry Trees of Takayama.A horizontal picture of Nakashio's weeping cherry tree. Nakashio's weeping cherry tree is designated as one of the "Five Great Cherry Trees of Shinshu Takayama Village" and is the youngest cherry tree among the Five Great Cherry Trees of Takayama.

    To help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and to protect the roots, it’s helpful to maintain a layer of mulch around the dripline – just make sure that the mulch is kept a couple of inches away from the trunk.

    Supplemental watering should be ceased whenever temperatures dip below 40°F and/or there’s snow on the ground.

    Depending on how manicured you want your garden to be, you might need to rake up the leaves after they’ve dropped in fall.

    Weeping Cherry Cultivars to Select

    There are numerous weeping cherry cultivars available and you should have no problem finding one that meets your aesthetic needs.

    Here are five of my favorites:

    Kiku-Shidare-Zakura

    Prunus ‘Kiku-Shidare-Zakura’ – a Japanese flowering cherry cultivar – puts on a showstopping display, as each of its richly pink double flowers has up to 125 petals!

    A horizontal image of a Prunus serrulata 'Kiku-shidare-zakura' specimen growing in the grass outdoors.A horizontal image of a Prunus serrulata 'Kiku-shidare-zakura' specimen growing in the grass outdoors.

    With a mature height and spread of 10 to 15 feet, ‘Kiku-Shidare-Zakura’ is a wonderful specimen planting for spots needing a relatively compact tree. It’s hardy in Zones 4 to 9.

    Plena Rosea

    Digging double blooms? P. subhirtella ‘Plena Rosea’ aka ‘Pendula Plena Rosea’ is another double-bloomer, with each pale pink double flower flaunting 10 to 20 twisted flower petals with a prominent red center.

    Additionally, these beautiful flowers persist longer into the summer than other weeping cherries!

    Hardy in Zones 5 to 8, the plant reaches a mature height and spread of 15 to 25 feet.

    A bit larger than ‘Kiku-Shidare-Zakura,’ ‘Plena Rosea’ is ideal for filling out bigger planting sites.

    A square image of a pink 'Plena Rosa' tree growing in the grassy yard of a beautiful outdoor residence.A square image of a pink 'Plena Rosa' tree growing in the grassy yard of a beautiful outdoor residence.

    ‘Plena Rosea’

    You can find ‘Plena Rosea’ in four-by-four-by-six-inch containers available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Shidare-Yoshino

    Hardy in Zones 5 to 8, Prunus x yedoensis ‘Shidare-Yoshino’ is a weeping cultivar of the famed Yoshino cherry.

    A horizontal image of a Prunus x yedoensis Shidare Yoshino specimen growing outside near a paved walking path.A horizontal image of a Prunus x yedoensis Shidare Yoshino specimen growing outside near a paved walking path.

    Bursting with single white flowers, ‘Shidare-Yoshino’ reaches heights of 20 to 25 feet and spreads of 20 to 30 feet.

    For a brilliant white mass of drooping blooms, you can’t go wrong with ‘Shidare-Yoshino.’

    Weeping Extraordinaire

    As if regular weeping cherry flowers weren’t extraordinary enough, Weeping Extraordinaire™ features delightful double pink blooms that are super-duper fluffy, with numerous narrow petals to give each flower a “stuffed-to-the-brim” aesthetic.

    Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 8 and with a mature height and width of 15 to 20 feet, Prunus x ‘Extrazam’ is tolerant of urban pollution, making it a perfect planting for the street or a public park.

    A square image of a Weeping Extraordinaire branch that's blooming heavily with densely-packed pink blooms.A square image of a Weeping Extraordinaire branch that's blooming heavily with densely-packed pink blooms.

    Weeping Extraordinaire

    Prunus x ‘Extrazam’ is available as a four- to five-foot transplant from FastGrowingTrees.com.

    White Snow Fountains

    The name pretty much covers it. With a cascading, elegant habit that bursts with stark white flowers, White Snow Fountains® really lives up to its name.

    Reaching a mature height of eight to 15 feet and a spread of eight to 10 feet, Prunus x ‘Snofozam’ is a bit taller than it is wide, making it a solid accent tree for tighter spots in the landscape.

    A square shot of the beautifully rounded crown of White Snow Fountains, growing in a square planter surrounded by flowering bulbs.A square shot of the beautifully rounded crown of White Snow Fountains, growing in a square planter surrounded by flowering bulbs.

    White Snow Fountains

    You can find White Snow Fountains® in #5 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Managing Pests and Disease

    Nothing gives a weeping cherry tree something to cry about quite like pests and disease. Let’s discuss how to deal with them!

    Herbivores

    Unfortunately, these trees can be quite susceptible to…

    Voles

    Sometimes known as “field mice,” voles look like the stocky, short-tailed love-children of mice and hamsters.

    With their impressive speed, jumping ability, digging skills, and reproductive rates, large populations can quickly burrow around and through plant roots, as well as chew up the bark at the base of trees.

    Placing vole or mouse traps around popular burrow paths and nesting sites can catch or kill these pests, depending on the traps you use.

    Either way, peanut butter makes a great bait, especially if you bait the traps for vole activity in the afternoon to early evening when they are active.

    Protect your tree trunks with loose tree guards made of mesh or hardware cloth. Bury the guards a bit below the soil to keep voles from squeezing inside. Fox or coyote urine works as a repellent, but those need reapplying after rain.

    Insects

    Since insects can vector pathogens, it’s doubly important to manage them. Especially these ones:

    Borers

    “Borers” refers to the immature larval stages of a variety of different moths and beetles.

    After emerging from eggs laid in plants in spring to summer, borers will tunnel through living wood as they feed, which damages xylem and phloem tissues.

    This feeding weakens the plant, causing girdling, dieback, and eventual death. The feeding tunnels are also prime entry points for pathogens to wreak their own havoc.

    Since adult insects tend to lay their eggs in damaged, sickly, or otherwise stressed plants, proper cultivation is essential for prevention. By caring for your trees properly and not wounding them, you’re telling bugs “this ain’t a good spot!”

    If borers do become a problem, you may need to apply pyrethroids or other insecticides via bark sprays. More systemic insecticides can be applied via injections or soil drenches, preferably by a professional.

    Japanese Beetles

    Popillia japonica is a Japanese-native species of beetle that packs quite an appetite.

    A close up horizontal photo of a Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica) perched on a plant stem and leaf set against a blurry green background.A close up horizontal photo of a Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica) perched on a plant stem and leaf set against a blurry green background.

    With shiny, metallic green bodies and coppery wing covers, adult Japanese beetles take conspicuous bites out of leaves and flowers, which can skeletonize leaves and hinder photosynthesis.

    If these insects strike, I’d prescribe “soapy death.”

    During a cool morning or evening, take a bucket of soapy water to an infested plant and flick the bugs in the water.

    The soap will keep them under as they drown. A bit too grisly? Try spraying your plants with neem oil instead.

    A vertical image of a white and purple bottle of Bonide's 3-in-1 neem oil in front of a white background.A vertical image of a white and purple bottle of Bonide's 3-in-1 neem oil in front of a white background.

    Bonide Neem Oil

    Bonide sells neem oil in ready-to-use or concentrated forms at Arbico Organics.

    Learn more about how to deal with Japanese beetles in our guide.

    Disease

    Along with proper cultivation, sanitizing your garden tools is an easy way to prevent disease spread.

    Black Knot

    Caused by the fungus Apiosporina morbosa, black knot is a common and annoying disease that affects Prunus species.

    The trademark symptom is the formation of hard, tumor-like galls on branches and trunks, which appear black and swollen.

    Overwintering in galls from the previous year, the fungus releases spores during wet spring conditions, which spread via wind to infect the fresh shoots or wounds of other plants.

    Once inside a branch or trunk, the fungus triggers the growth of masses of large plant cells, leading to the swollen galls.

    A horizontal macro view of black knot disease growing on a Prunus branch outdoors.A horizontal macro view of black knot disease growing on a Prunus branch outdoors.

    One year later, the gall is covered with a velvety, olive green fungal growth. Two years later, the gall is black, hard, and capable of releasing its own spores.

    Black knot disease is tolerable, but it can distort an infected branch’s shape, kill its leaves, and crack trunk bark.

    If the disease shows up on your plants, prune out the galls with sterilized tools in late winter, making your stem cuts four inches below the gall.

    Burn, bury, or pitch your prunings, and don’t be afraid to remove and dispose of severely-infected plants entirely.

    Cherry Shot Hole Disease

    Technically, cherry shot hole disease is a symptom, rather than a true disease.

    Often an eventual result of bacterial leaf spot and/or cherry leaf spot, this affliction leaves small, punched-out holes in the foliage of cherry and cherry laurel species.

    A horizontal shot of the leaves of a cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) affected by the leaf spot fungi Stigmina carpophila.A horizontal shot of the leaves of a cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) affected by the leaf spot fungi Stigmina carpophila.

    The causal diseases spread rapidly in warm, humid spring weather. In Prunus plants, afflicted leaves will eventually turn chlorotic and drop.

    Space trees properly to promote good air flow to avoid a buildup of humidity, and rake up fallen leaves to prevent overwintering pathogens.

    Fungicides can be used preventatively on valuable specimens, while trees heavily affected by cherry shot hole disease need to be removed entirely.

    Verticillium Wilt

    Verticillium wilt is a rather serious disease of Prunus that causes sudden wilting, chlorosis, necrosis, and/or brown, streaked sapwood. 

    After lying dormant in the soil as microsclerotia, the causal fungi Verticillium dahliae and/or Verticillium albo-atrum enters the plant through wounded roots or natural openings. It enters and clogs up the xylem, interrupting its water flow.

    Plants may survive this disease without your help, but pruning dead branches, using sterilized tools, and proper cultivation all make it easier.

    Since the pathogens persist in the soil indefinitely, severely infected trees should be removed and replaced with resistant plants such as arborvitae, ginkgo, or oak.

    Best Uses for Weeping Cherry Trees

    A weeping cherry tree is a truly delightful specimen, especially in spring when it’s in full bloom. You can plant in the vicinity of more upright trees for contrast.

    A horizontal image of two rows of weeping cherry trees growing on either side of a pavement path.A horizontal image of two rows of weeping cherry trees growing on either side of a pavement path.

    It’s also a fantastic shade tree! You may have to be a bit lower to the ground to fit comfortably under its drooping branches, perhaps lying prone or on your back… I can’t think of a better spot to take an outdoor nap, though.

    Quick Reference Growing Guide

    Plant Type: Deciduous flowering tree Flower/Foliage Color: Pink to white/green
    Native to: China, Japan, Korea Maintenance: Moderate
    Hardiness (USDA Zones): 5-8 Water Needs: Moderate to high
    Bloom Time: Spring Tolerance: Deer, drought (moderate), heat, poor and suboptimal soils, frost
    Exposure: Full sun Soil Type: Loose, fertile loam
    Time to Maturity: 5 years Soil pH: 6.0-7.5
    Spacing: Width of mature spread Soil Drainage: Well-draining
    Planting Depth: Same depth as nursery container Attracts: Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds
    Height: 6-30 feet Uses: Shade tree, specimen planting
    Spread: 5-25 feet Family: Rosaceae
    Growth Rate: Fast Genus: Prunus
    Common Pests and Diseases: Borers, Japanese beetles, voles; black knot, cherry shot hole disease, verticillium wilt Species: Serrulata, x subhirtella, x yedoensis

    It’s No Ordinary Cherry…

    Droopy-ness doesn’t look fantastic in people or animals, but plants like the weeping cherry really own the look. Wouldn’t you agree?

    Congrats on learning the ways of these plants! May they add a delightful cascading aesthetic to your landscape for the rest of your gardening days.

    Still have questions, remarks, tips of your own to share? Let us know in the comments section below!

    And for more information about growing species in the Prunus genus, check out these guides next:

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    Joe Butler

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  • Growing Guide for Bergenia Plant

    Growing Guide for Bergenia Plant

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    Named for Karl August von Bergen, 1704-60, German botanist (Saxifragaceae). These hardy perennial herbaceous plants with large evergreen leaves were at one time called megasea, and were at another time included with the saxifrages. The flowers which come in early spring are showy in white, pink or red-purple, borne in large heads on long stems. The large leathery, glossy leaves are also decorative, especially as in some kinds the foliage is suffused with reddish color in winter.

    Plant Species

    • B. cordifolia, 1 foot, pink, spring; var. purpurea, flowers purplish-pink.
    • B. crassifolia, 1 foot, pink, spring.
    • B. delavayi, 9 inches, leaves turn crimson in winter, flowers purplish-rose, March,
    • B. ligulata, 1 foot, white or pink, January or February onwards,
    • B. x schmidtii, 1 foot, flowers pink spring.
    • B. stracheyi, 1 foot, pink, April.

    Cultivars

    • `Ballawley Hybrid’, 14 feet, crimson flowers, dark purplish leaves in winter.
    • `Delbees’, 1 foot, leaves turn red in winter, flowers rosy, March—April.
    • `Evening Glow’, 15-18 inches,%dark purple flowers, reddish-bronze foliage.
    • `Silberlichf , (`Silver Light’), 1 foot, flowers white flushed pink, spring.
    • Others are available and more are likely to be seen in cultivation as time goes on.

    Planting location

    These members of the saxifrage family are in no way difficult, thriving in any soil, in sun or shade. However, to get full color in the winter leaves (and this can be very fine), it will be necessary to give the bergenias full sun exposure; and under those conditions they will also produce their flowers somewhat earlier.


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Should you grow white or purple Dioscorea alata yams? | The Survival Gardener

    Should you grow white or purple Dioscorea alata yams? | The Survival Gardener

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    Yesterday I was asked whether white Dioscorea alata yams or purple Dioscorea alata yams were better to grow.

    “I actually used the link that another commenter left, and ordered a few little fellers on Ebay. There were a lot of the purple yams, but I wanted to start with the white ones. When it comes to eating or growing, do you have a preference? I will probably order some purple ones too. (Unless you say don’t!)”

    That is a good question, and it depends on how you gauge your gardening success.

    Productivity

    The white wild form of D. alata is quite vigorous and gives you a large harvest.

    And… the purple yams are purple.

    It may be that the anthocyanin content of the purple yams makes them healthier for you, but I’m not sure both are species of D. alata.

    We primarily grow the white varieties as they produce excellently and take zero work. The purple varieties also take zero work, but give half the yield.

    We haven’t noticed much difference in flavor.

    Market Value

    There is a catch however, when you compare them in the marketplace rather than for home consumption: the purple yams are almost certainly more valuable on the market, especially if you have a thriving Filipino community.

    This year, I plan to grow as many purple yams as possible, with the hope of selling them in Pensacola. The purple variety of D. alata is known as ube yam among Filipinos. It is prized in desserts, especially at the holidays.

    One day, Rachel and I drove to at least four different ethnic markets in Pensacola in search of yams at the one market where we found them they were selling ube yam. They cost five dollars per pound. That is a high enough price to make it worthwhile as a crop, especially considering its rarity inside of the United States.

    The Verdict

    Most backyard gardeners are unlikely to use ube as market crop; hence for maximum production and homestead use, I recommend growing the white wild-ish variety of D. alata, unless you are Filipino or plan to sell your yams to the Filipino community, in which case you should concentrate on purple ube.

    Finally, if you can get improved white D. alata types, they are really excellent; however, I haven’t been able to find any inside the US.  They are not as vigorous as the big lumpy types, but they are much easier to process and their flesh is less grainy and much better for cooking.

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  • Hardscaping 101: Natural Swimming Pools – Gardenista

    Hardscaping 101: Natural Swimming Pools – Gardenista

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    Have you ever swam in a natural swimming pool? There’s no chlorine, no chemical taste or smell, nothing to sting your eyes. Recently architect Alan Barlis, who designed one for a client in New York’s Hudson Valley, described the experience like this: “Incredibly blissful. Once you swim in one of these things you feel like you’ve been so refreshed. It’s like being in a Brita for an hour. It’s like taking the best shower of your life.”

    It sounds as if we all should be swimming in natural pools, for our health and the environment’s. So why aren’t we? For one thing, natural swimming pools cost more to install (on average 10 percent more than conventional pools, says an industry spokesman). Perception is another problem, because some swimmers equate chlorine with cleanliness. Finally, a lack of uniform guidelines and rules in the US may make the idea of installing a natural swimming pool seem, well, murky.

    On the other hand: incredibly blissful. 

    So read on for everything you need to know to decide whether a natural swimming pool is for you.

    What is a natural swimming pool?

    In Switzerland near Lake Lucerne, a natural swimming pool supported by a retaining wall on a steep slope “appears to almost float weightlessly out over the valley,” the designers say. Photograph courtesy of Biotop.
    Above: In Switzerland near Lake Lucerne, a natural swimming pool supported by a retaining wall on a steep slope “appears to almost float weightlessly out over the valley,” the designers say. Photograph courtesy of Biotop.

    Think of a natural swimming pool as a chlorine-free zone. Instead of relying on chemicals to keep the water clean, natural pools have water gardens with plants that naturally filter and clean the water.

    Industry pioneer Biotop, headquartered in Europe, has installed more than 5,000 natural swimming pools worldwide during the past three decades. Other industry players include Ellicar (formerly Ensata) in the UK, and Bio Nova and Total Habitat in the US.

    How does a natural pool work?

    A natural pool at Plane Trees Lodge in Australia has a water depth of 6 1/2 feet. Photograph courtesy of Biotop.
    Above: A natural pool at Plane Trees Lodge in Australia has a water depth of 6 1/2 feet. Photograph courtesy of Biotop.

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  • A Year of Bouquets From the Garden – FineGardening

    A Year of Bouquets From the Garden – FineGardening

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    I’m Maria Nieuwenhof from Quebec, Canada (Zone 5). I was going through my pictures over the last few days and trying to figure out what annuals I will start from seeds this year for my bouquets. When I go to see friends, or when I visit my father in Montreal, or when I have an event to go to I bring one or more bouquets. I started in late April with my first bouquet that had daffodils and ended in early November with achillea.

    This year was a busy year for events. We had two baby showers, I participated in my gardening club’s flower show; after that I had a garden visit, and plenty of lunches with friends. In addition, I bring a bouquet to my dad every week and of course always have one on my kitchen table. I use only plants that grow at home—perennials, annuals that I start from seed, and some wildflowers, branches, and leaves that grow on our large property. I am starting to be more creative with my bouquets and am always on the lookout for things I can use. I love walking around the garden with my basket in the morning and asking myself, “What is going in the bouquet today?” or “What color will it be?” These photos are only a few examples. I hope you enjoy them.

    Late April in Quebec, beautiful daffodils (Narcissus hybrid, Zones 3–8) take center stage, set off by branches trimmed from shrubs in the garden.

    bouquet with red, pink and yellow tulipsIt’s tulip time, accented by the variegated foliage of ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria, Zones 4–9) and hosta (Hosta hybrid, Zones 3–8).

    bouquet with yellow, purple, and white flowersHere’s a sunny early summer bouquet, with a range of yellow blooms. Yellow evening primrose (Oenothera sp.) shows off in the center, while spires of purple veronica (Veronica spicata, Zones 3–8) give contrast in both color and form.

    bouquet with pink, purple and white flowersThis is a study in lavender, with beautiful daylily (Hemerocallis hybrids, Zones 3 – 10) blooms. Individual daylily flowers only last one day, so they can seem like an unexpected choice for a cut flower, but new buds will continue to open even after they are cut, and as you can see here, they look amazing in a vase!

    basket full of freshly cut flowersThe basket is full of fresh flowers from the garden that are ready to be arranged and enjoyed!

    bouquet with pink and yellow flowers and foliage clippingsSoft pinks from a sunflower (Helianthus annuus, annual), zinnias (Zinnia elegans, annual), and a sedum just beginning to bloom (Hylotelephium spectabile, Zones 3–9) are set off by yellow sprays of goldenrod (Solidago sp.) and accented by clouds of green from fern fronds and ornamental grass.

    bouquet with various pink flowersCelebrating summer with pink gladiolus (Gladiolus hybrids, Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb) and zinnias

    two bouquets of zinnias and other colorful plantsZinnias are an essential choice for anyone wanting to enjoy cut flowers. They are easy to grow from seed, come in a wide range of colors, and are beautiful and long-lasting in a vase.

    bouquet with pink and yellow flowersThis end-of-the-year garden bouquet was picked in early November and includes late-blooming yarrow (Achillea, Zones 3–8) and other long-lasting beauties from the garden, such as seed heads from Miscanthus sinensis (Zones 5–9) and branches of variegated euonymus (Euonymus fortunei, Zones 5–8).

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • Planning the perfect garden

    Planning the perfect garden

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    Before planting a garden, considerable thought must be taken to ensure important features are correct.

    There are many factors to consider when considering a garden surface. The light availability, soil structure, and PH level, water availability, and buildings or other structures around all contribute to the location of the proposed garden. Other things to contemplate are the different garden styles available, various materials to work with, and the overall scale of your garden.

    Light

    All living plants need light to survive. The amount and type of light that is given will determine the type of garden you can build. In the proposed area of your property, monitor when the sunlight hits the area and leaves it again. Is it for two, three, six, or twelve hours daily? Also, is it in the early morning, during the day’s heat, or late afternoon? Your available light will judge what limitations you will have. For example if it only gets a few hours of filtered sunlight a day in the morning or late afternoon, then a shade style of bed is probably best. If your area is full sun for the most of the day, then sun-loving plants will thrive.

    Soil

    This also has a reflection on what type of plants you can grow. Heavy clay soils need the addition of compost and peat moss to help lighten the area, and a sandy area needs more topsoil with amendments to balance the moisture level. A rock-plagued location can be dealt with in many ways, one by removing the rocks and adding soil with amendments, or the other extreme by encouraging plants that thrive in these conditions to grow in your setting.

    The PH level in the soil is another factor. The best PH level is between 5.5 and 7.5, with a lower number being more acidic and a higher number being more alkaline. A soil test kit can be given to your local test station to determine which soil you have and if any necessary changes need to be made. With this information, it is possible to change your PH level by adding various amendments; acidic soils can have powdered lime worked into the soil, and alkaline soil can have sulfur added.

    Water

    Various plants have distinct water requirements for them to flourish. Some species of plants are water-lovers, while others are drought-tolerant. You need to look at your area and determine if it is a low-lying area that retains water or if it is on a bank that drains quickly. If it is a fast-drying area, then xeriscape-type plants would do well, and if the area is always saturated with water, then bog-type plants are needed.

    Other factors to consider are whether you are willing and able to water the area if a drought occurs and whether mulch can be applied to the gardens to help retain the necessary water.

    Structures

    This is a very broad subject, as they can be natural or man-made. For example, evergreen trees would present a shade location, whereas a leaf tree would most likely provide filtered sun, and both would provide a cooler atmosphere for the plants underneath. A man-made structure, such as a garage or garden shed, would create many planting options, the north side being shaded most of the day and the south side being the hottest by receiving the majority of available sunlight. As heat and light is reflective as well, this area would be intensified further.

    Scale

    This, too, is an important component of your space because too small of a garden or pond can look out of place, and a large one seems overwhelming to a visitor. I always suggest, before taking a spade to your property, trying to scale your property on paper first. This may not be exactly done in the end, but it is much easier to change it on paper if alterations are needed.

    When in the garden, I also suggest using a garden hose to get a feel for where the flowerbeds will be located. It is more pleasing to the eye to have a flowerbed with soft, flowing curves, not just in and out. If your garden hose doesn’t stay in the position you lay it in, look at your layout to see if you are creating too strong of a curve.

    Lastly, the styles to create are endless; visiting other gardens or reading books to gather ideas are invaluable. It is easier to research what will suit and work in your area than rebuilding or re-working your garden. As a gardener, I can also tell you that ideas will never stop and transformations can happen over time, enjoy what you create!

    Press Here!
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    Email: Jennifer Moore

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    Jennifer Moore

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  • Trees with Red and Purple Foliage

    Trees with Red and Purple Foliage

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    Placing trees of these colors needs great care, but their colors mingled with the multitude of others in autumn are effective and of great beauty; they do not blend well with the normal greens, particularly if used in quantity. They should, therefore, be used sparingly in isolation at points where they will inevitably catch the eye.

    A number have clear colors when the leaves unfold but gradually lose this quality and become sombre as the season progresses. Others, not included here, become normal green when the leaves are open.

    Search Google Images for the trees listed.

    ACER PLATANOIDES `Crimson King’ (`Goldsworth Purple’),

    Norway maple with crimson-purple leaves larger than the type.

    BETULA PENDULA PURPUREA

    The purple-leaved birch is not a vigorous tree.

    CORYLUS MAXIMA PURPUREA

    The purple-leaved filbert is a good color though not often of tree size.  See picture above.

    FAGUS SYLVATICA ATROPUNICEA

    The dark purple beech, cuprea copper beech; and purpurea, purple beech, are all well-known, reliable trees reaching a considerable size and quite unsuitable for other than the largest garden. Weeping forms of these colored variants are also available

    Cedrus atlantica glauca is a graceful conifer with glaucous blue leaves.

    MALUS

    The flowering crabs provide several kinds with red or purple foliage combined with gay flowers and decorative fruits. All are very hardy and adaptable, well suited to a small garden; M. x aldenhamensis, purplish leaves, rich red flowers and crimson fruit. M. eleyi is rather more vigorous than the last, the leaves bronze-green flushed with purple, the fruit hanging longer on the tree. M. purpurea has dark purplish green leaves, crimson flowers and fruits, both tinged with purple. M. `Wisley Crab’, larger than the foregoing in all its parts, the leaves bronzy-red, the flowers large, wine colored, scented and large deep-red fruits.

    PRUNUS

    Several plums have colored leaves, the best including P. blireana (often a large shrub) deep copper with pink flowers. P. cerasifera atropurpurea, better known as P. pissardii, with crimson-purple leaves, suitable also for hedging; nigra has darker leaves.

    QUERCUS PETRAEA PURPUREA

    Has reddish-purple leaves which become green flushed with red. Q. robur fastigiata purpurea has young leaves the same color.


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Philadelphia Garden Show

    Philadelphia Garden Show

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    I'm so happy you are here!I'm so happy you are here!

    When you go to the Philadelphia Flower Show, it helps to take along the right attitude. If seeing gorgeous, high concept gardens full of the most fashionable flowers makes you feel insecure, then take yourself elsewhere. If you need a massive dose of color, fragrance, humidity, and horticultural inspiration, then the Philadelphia Flower Show will be perfect for you. On my calendar, it officially marks the end of winter. It also reminds me of everything that a garden can be—provided you have a forklift, a crew of ten, at least $20,000 and the ability to make crocuses, roses and hydrangeas all bloom simultaneously.

    The centerpieces of the Flower Show are the display gardens, sponsored by nurseries, florists, educational institutions and other horticultural (and occasionally non-horticultural) entities. This year, one of the pieces de resistance was a Victorian house, complete with “gingerbread” trim and surrounded by a sumptuous garden. Another well-publicized display featured an array of CD’s suspended high above the plants. As the CD’s twinkled in the reflected light, I felt as if I had wandered into some kind of horticultural disco.

    Every year I stand in awe of the flower arrangements, many of which are literally and figuratively over the top. Each exhibitor articulates a theme, which, thankfully, is spelled out on cards beneath or beside the arrangement. Most of the arrangements are large, and many are gorgeous. Some are just inexplicable. A large sculptural installation dominated the center of the display area, looking as if it had been constructed from pieces of a child’s giant metal building set. Long metal rods connected balls and cubes covered with red or white carnations, and the whole thing revolved slowly. The effect was that of an interesting merger between the Tournament of Rose Parade and the complete works of Alexander Calder. I think it’s safe to say that the piece made a statement.

    Naturally, there was an emphasis on conservation and ecologically sound gardening techniques, including a display sponsored by the Environmental Protection Agency. Recycling was present in the form of one large arrangement that incorporated old rake heads, flowers and various vegetables including cabbage and potatoes.

    Above all, the Philadelphia Flower Show is about fashion. Last year potagers or kitchen gardens were hotter than hot, and there were several on display. This year the only vegetables that I saw were in the arrangement with the rakes. Last year there were thousands of lamb’s ears (Stachys). This year there were a few, but dwarf boxwood was clearly much more important. Over the past few years, the “cottage garden” theme has been articulated with masses of foxgloves everywhere. This year foxgloves have been supplanted by giant snapdragons, each one individually staked to stand tall and proud.

    Malvas, those tall, slightly more elegant hollyhock relatives, were ubiquitous. The relatively new cultivar ‘Mystic Merlin’, which has bluish-purple striped flowers, and its cousin Malva ‘Zebrina’, another striped bloomer, stood in majestic clumps from one end of the hall to the other. On the shorter side of things, scabiosa, sometimes referred to as pincushion flowers, enlivened the front of many displays. I saw lots of blue and purple scabiosa, but curiously, no pink. Maybe next year.

    One fashion that has persisted is the vogue for coleus–the brighter the better. I saw lime green coleus, and blood-red varieties. The Victorian gardener inside me leaped for joy at the sight of coleus cultivars with splashed and whorled leaves in shades of cream, chartreuse and pink. The coleus wave was crested by the colorful caps of coleus standards. These plants, trained to grow on supports, with the side shoots clipped off until the top of the support is reached, are vibrant versions of traditional small-scale topiary. I have no doubt that this coming summer we will see them flanking the front steps of many fashionable houses.

    Flower show convention seems to dictate that you can’t really have an impressive display without a water feature, and about three-quarters of the Philadelphia exhibitors supplied them. Each of those same displays had a little sign in front of it warning Pennsylvania residents about drought-related water use restrictions. Artificial ponds, pools and decorative rills may be eternally fashionable, but with water shortages on the horizon, they may not be very practical. If the spring rains don’t come, I predict that this year even fashionable gardeners will be thinking more about mulching than plumbing.


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    Elizabeth Ginsberg

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  • Growing Guide for Verbascum – Mullein

    Growing Guide for Verbascum – Mullein

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    Possibly from the Latin barba, a beard, many species have a hairy or downy look (Scrophulariaceae). Mullein. A genus of 300 species of hardy herbaceous plants, mostly biennials or short-lived perennials, from temperate parts of Europe and Asia.

    Species cultivated

    • V. blattaria, moth mullein, to 4 feet, flowers yellow or cream, Europe. (including Britain).
    • V. bombyciferum (syns. V. ‘Broussa’, V. ‘Brusa’), biennial, 4-6 feet, stem and leaves covered in silvery hairs, flowers golden-yellow, embedded in silvery hairs, June—July, western Asia Minor.
    • V. chaixii (syn. V. vernale), 3 feet, stems purple, leaves covered with whitish hairs, flowers yellow, June—August, Europe.
    • V. dumulosum, 1 foot, perennial, leaves grey felted, flowers lemon-yellow, May—June, needs a hot, dry place or alpine house, Asia Minor.
    • V. nigrum (syn. V. vernale), normally perennial, 2-3 feet, yellow, blotched reddish-brown, June to October, Europe including Britain.
    • V. olympicum, perennial, 5-6 feet, leaves grey felted, flowers golden, June to September, Bithynia; several cultivars in shades of amber, terracotta, purple and yellow. .
    • V. phoeniceum, purple mullein, 3-5 feet; hybrids available in pink, lilac, purple.
    • V. pulverulenturn, hoary mullein, leaves white hairy, flowers yellow, July, Europe including Britain.
    • V. thapsus, Aaron’s rod, hag taper, to 3 feet, very woolly, flowers yellow summer, Europe, Asia.

    Cultivation

    Verbascums grow easily in sunny positions and ordinary or chalky soil. The species is propagated by seed sown in light soil outdoors in April. Root cuttings in autumn or winter increase hybrids, some of which are sterile.


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • 1000 Pound Pumpkin or a Pie

    1000 Pound Pumpkin or a Pie

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    In their quest for the world’s heavyweight champion, some pumpkin growers will do almost anything.

    Don Black lives a four-room house in upstate New York, only a few miles from the Canadian border. To say his House is a bachelor pad is to be polite. Don’s walls are bare – except for a few world-champion pumpkin plaques. Don used to have many more, but he burned them in outrage last year. Don’s laundry is heaped in piles all over the floor. He has two dressers, but all the drawers are filled with 300 baby food jars containing pumpkin seeds. These drawers are the home of what Don claims is the world’s only pumpkin seed museum. Why doesn’t he keep his clothes in the drawers?

    “Then where would I put my seeds?” he asks.

    To earn a living, Don laces bedroom slippers together in a factory about 21 miles away. On a good day, when Led Zeppelin pumps through his headphones, he can lace 108 pairs in eight hours. He gets paid by the piece, and Don says he makes “$16,000 a year if I’m lucky.”

    Don leaves for work at 5:30 a.m., but before he goes, as well as two or three times every night he trudges out behind his house to the pumpkin patch – a patch so neat, so loved, its hard to believe it is tended by the same man. The earth is as dark and moist as devil’s food cake. Don comes out to check for intruders – woodchucks, deer, teenagers or, the most insidious, saboteurs.

    Don, 38, is not paranoid. He is practical. Could he afford it, he might try what Norm Craven, his nemesis across the Canadian border, has installed in his patch – sensors and cameras.

    “People don’t want anyone to grow a bigger pumpkin,” Craven said. “No matter what.”

    Don Black and Norm Craven, along with about 5,000 competitive growers, have been trying to grow what was once considered impossible, unthinkable, the four-minute mile of pumpkindom: a 1,000-pounder.

    It will be “like a moon landing,” says Ray Waterman, president of one of three feuding pumpkin organizations. Wrote Tom Norlin in the spring issue of the Midwestern Pumpkin Growers newsletter “The winner will be remembered and written about for generations.”

    Last year, Herman Bax of Brockville, Ontario, grew a 990-pound pumpkin, the largest in history. Some credited the seed. Others the weather. Herman praised his septic bed, over which he grew his pumpkin. Herman’s neighbor and friend, Barry Dejong, grew the second largest in history – 945.5 pounds. Together they split $28,000 in prize money – not bad for two 30-year-old guys who help make Tide soap in a Procter & Gamble factory.

    Herman sold his pumpkin to a restaurant outside San Francisco that hosts an annual pumpkin festival. Two Las Vegas casinos bid for Barry’s pumpkin. The winner, the Excalibur, flew Barry, his pumpkin and his wife out to Vegas for a week and greeted Barry and his wife with a stretch limo. The pumpkin went on display in the casino lobby wearing a crown, a security guard by its side round the clock. Two days before Halloween, the pumpkin was trucked to Hollywood, where a professional pumpkin carver waited to sculpt the world’s largest jack-o-lantern on The Tonight Show With Jay Leno. But at the last moment, Leno was a no-go. Because the pumpkin had spent 10 days under the spotlight,” lamented Barry, “it had started to get soupy inside.” Barry’s champion pumpkin ended its charmed life in a Hollywood dumpster.

    The Scottish philosopher David Hume once wrote that avarice and ambition drive all men. As these twin desires drive the Trumps and Madonnas and Gingriches and Iacoccas, they also motivate the Pumpkin People. On a smaller scale for sure, but with no less ferocity. These men and few women come from all walks of life. They are firefighters and farmers, park rangers and stockbrokers, engineers and appliance salesmen. Like all backyard gardeners, they start out growing giant pumpkins for fun. But soon these innocent gardeners quickly submit to the raw power of the pumpkin.

    In just 70 days, a championship pumpkin swells from the size of a marble to the size of a kitchen stove, and is about as shapely. But no pumpkin grower cares about looks. “Pounds talk, everything else walks,” barks Waterman. “This ain’t a damn beauty contest.”

    During July and August an Atlantic Giant pumpkin can gain 30 pounds a day. There’s nothing that grows faster than a giant pumpkin,” says Ron Nelson, a Washington state grower. He should know. His pumpkin was well over 900 pounds last year when it literally exploded just nine days before the international weigh-off. “It’s shell simply couldn’t stand the stress,” said Hugh Wiberg, a New England grower. “God never intended pumpkins to be pushed to such limits.” Although Nelson says he handled the tragedy well, other growers say he was bereft. “He didn’t sleep for two nights,” said Wiberg.

    These pumpkins create their own gravity, cast their own spell. Soon the act of growing is no longer enough. “I push and push,” says Leonard Stellpflug, a New York state grower. “I go for broke. I either want the world championship or nothing.” Stellpflug walks around with divining rods – coat hangers inside the shells of Bic pens – searching for “water domes” and “energy fields.” Wayne Hackney of Connecticut, after seeking advice from photobiologists at a GTE testing laboratory, installed 1,000-watt lights in his patch and shined them all night, “It looked like Yankee Stadium,” he said. He stopped after two years, but only because somebody stole them.

    Holland in Washington state uses solar panels to raise the temperature of his irrigation water from 50 to 80 degrees so his pumpkin plants won’t experience shock.

    Don Black, founder and curator of the pumpkin seed museum, ran his well dry this summer watering his pumpkins. So then he ran a hose 300 feet from his brother’s well. And he showered at his sister’s house.

    And Norm Craven? He installed those infrared cameras and sensors last year after his involvement in what many consider the most heinous act in the history of pumpkin growing. He felt such hostility from other growers this year that he concentrated on cabbages instead.

    Pumpkin people pine to be the first to break 1,000 pounds, to get their names in the Guinness Book of Records, to strut on Regis and Kathy Lee. They are local celebrities, featured in newspapers and on television around the world. Their phones ring with calls from awestruck growers less evolved on the pumpkin chain. They work relentlessly, and while they won’t kill their rivals to succeed, some of them will bicker, whine, hate, lie and cheat.

    They are as American as, well, pumpkin pie.

    Tony Ciliberto had a special feeling this spring as he prepared his fields outside Wilkes Barre with 4,000 pounds of manure. “My personal gut feeling is someone will hit the 1,000-pound mark this year,” he predicted back on May 16. And of course Tony hoped he would be the one.

    Tony, 41, is a big man at 6-foot-4, 240, a bricklayer, with hands as large and leathery as catcher’s mitts. Tony would love to grow pumpkins on a farm in Ontario, with smooth soil and a summer sun that doesn’t set until after 10 p.m. But he comes from this comer of Pennsylvania, and so does his wife. This is where his roots are planted. And it is here, in Bear Creek, Pa., on the side of a rocky Pocono Mountain foothill, that he has carved out his pumpkin patch. Perhaps no grower in America has met with more natural adversity, more bad luck, than Tony Ciliberto.

    In those first years, his patch was so steep, pumpkins would snap off the vine overnight and roll down the Mountainside. Over the years, Tony has graded the property with uncounted truckloads of dirt and manure, and bordered his patch with railroad ties. He has turned this patch into the puffiest, richest, softest and most productive mountainside of dirt in Pennsylvania. His biggest pumpkin before this summer was 734 pounds, a state record, but nothing compared to what Tony knew he was capable of. Tony knew, always, the secret of a big pumpkin was choosing the right seed and praying for the right weather. What he wanted more than anything was sunlight. Day after day of brilliant sun. July and August are always getting cloudy up his way. A couple of years ago, he chopped down a dozen oak trees to give his pumpkin plants another 30 minutes of daylight. Give me sun, he would say every year. Give me sun.

    All winter Tony considered which seeds to plant. This is the biggest decision any grower makes. He settled on a seed from Mark Woodward’s 511-pounder, the mother of Herman Bax’s 990. He also chose a seed from Norm Craven’s 836, and seeds from three Joel Holland pumpkins: the 827, 722 and 792. “I’m not much of a gambler,” Tony said. “I’m not trying anything new. No seeds from last year’s pumpkins. I know enough growers and I’ve traded enough seeds. I have the seeds that produced all of last year’s big pumpkins. I’m planting seeds that have already proven themselves.”

    On April 24, to speed germination, he took his wife’s emery board and gently filed the edges off his five chosen seeds, as if he were giving a pedicure to a Hollywood starlet. Pumpkin season had begun. Tony put his seeds in small pots with soil that had been treated with fungicide and warmed under lights in his den. After three days, the seeds had germinated. Seedlings began to emerge like claws from a crab. On May 7, Tony transplanted five precocious plants – each only four inches tall, but full of promise – into his patch. Immediately Tony covered each plant with homemade greenhouses the size of doghouses. Like an celebrity today, a giant pumpkin is rarely left unprotected.

    Over the next several weeks, Tony fertilized heavily with Miracle-Grow – he buys it in 12-1/2 pound boxes. He sprayed heavy doses of calcium nitrate, in the form of deodorized fish emulsion. “It’s really just fermented fish juice,” he explained. “It smells just awful, but they say it’s good for the plants.” He loved to pour on Garden’s Alive liquid kelp (seaweed) because “it’s loaded with trace elements – copper, zinc, magnesium, all things a growing pumpkin needs.” He even fertilized with modest doses of Epsom salts, not for sore feet, but close: for sore bottoms. Later in the summer, a pumpkin can suffer soft spots where it rests on the ground, soft spots that can lead to leaks and certain disqualification, if not death.

    Tony was usually out watering before dawn, and back again after work until dark. He waged organic and chemical warfare against cucumber beetles that ate his leaves, squash vine borers that mangled his vines. By late June, Tony sprinkled Snarol — snail- and slug-killer pellets — out in his patch. And on occasion, he has dropped a woodchuck with a rifle, when the varmint tunneled under the windbreak that surrounded his patch. We are talking giant pumpkins. Ciliberto shoots to kill.

    So what is a pumpkin, anyway? A pumpkin is not a cucumber, and it’s not a melon (although the word pumpkin comes from the Greek pepon meaning “large melon”) and it’s not a summer squash, although it belongs to the same botanical family. Giant pumpkins, Cucurbita maxima, are in the same genus as winter squash and gourds. Giant pumpkins and squash are essentially the same in size and shape. In fact, you can plant two seeds from the same giant pumpkin, and one might give you a green monster, while the other gives you a pumpkin-colored one. Cut them open, and they look identical on the inside. But don’t think they are equal. Oh, no, they are not.

    The competitive pumpkin world discriminates viciously on the basis of color.

    A championship pumpkin is often a warted, lumpy, hunchback of a blob that is absolutely tasteless and useless. But it must be yellow or orange, although now “cream”-colored pumpkins are acceptable at weighoffs. A squash is green or gray. A pumpkin is what turns heads and brings in the most prize money. After all, Linus doesn’t hang out on Halloween night waiting for the Great Squash.

    Which brings us to a second question. Why do people love pumpkins? Pumpkin stories and lore go back, it seems, to the beginning of time. Cinderella’s carriage came from a pumpkin. Peter Peter Pumpkin Eater had a wife and couldn’t keep her. Colonial Americans consumed so much pumpkin they made up a rhyme: We have pumpkins at morning and pumpkins at noon; fit was not for pumpkins, we would be undoon. And Whittaker Chambers hid his microfilm of documents Alger Efiss gave to the communists inside his pumpkin. Pumpkins have been used in stews and soups and beer and pies, and on every doorstep in America this week sits a jack-o’-lantern. Perhaps most astonishing., Alan Hirsch, a maverick scientist in Chicago, recently found that no aroma sexually aroused men more than a combination of lavender and pumpkin pie. Hirsch attributes this to Freud and Oedipus, etc. Howard Dill – whose biography is titled The Pumpkin King – has a simpler answer: “There’s always something about a giant pumpkin that had the power to make people happy.”

    In the summer of 1993, Don Black grew and 884-pound pumpkin, setting a world record. Days before the Oct. 1 weigh-off, Don loaded his pumpkin into his pickup, and then he drove 22 hours straight to Nova Scotia, to be with Howard Dill.

    Dill, a dairy farmer in Windsor, Nova Scotia, began growing pumpkins in the late 1950s and spent the better part of 20 years breeding them for size. Ultimately, Dill created a new variety – Dill’s Atlantic Giant. The U.S. Department of Agriculture awarded Dill plant variety protection, similar to a patent, and Dill started selling his seeds around the world. Dill won four consecutive world championships, 1979 through 1982, and his seeds or their descendants have been responsible for virtually every world champion in the last 20 years.

    Black had promised himself that if he ever grew a contender, “I would take it back to its birthplace.” He kept his promise. “When I pulled up his driveway,” Black recalled, “and Howard come out and saw my pumpkin, he put his hand on his heart: `Oh my gosh. I never thought they could get that big.’”

    The decision to drive to Nova Scotia for Don Black was an emotional one. But it was also a political one. The pumpkin world was plunging into civil war, and Don Black had to choose sides.

    The fact is, we live in an are of Giant Veggies, in which contests are held and prizes awarded for the largest carrot, sunflower and watermelon, not to mention the longest zucchini (104 inches!). Ray Waterman, 45, a farmer and restaurant owner in Collins, N.Y., near Buffalo, was the visionary. It was he who first conceived a worldwide weigh- off – giant pumpkins, of course, would be the main event. Waterman called Dill in 1982 after reading about him and presented his grand idea. “I envisioned an Olympics of Gardening,” Waterman recalled. “The average grower was sick of growing the same old beans, radishes and cucumbers in his garden. People need a challenge.”

    So Waterman and Dill created the World Pumpkin Confederation. Dill gave the organization credibility, but Waterman gave it the gas. Over the next several years, the WPC grew and grew, with 12 weigh-off sites, primarily in North America. On the first Saturday in October, growers would bring their giant pumpkins or squash or rutabagas to weigh-offs at WPC sites, and the winners would collect prize money, usually a few hundred dollars. Waterman printed newsletters and sent out hundreds of press releases with Howard Dill’s picture, and got tremendous media attention. When another world record was set, Waterman got the growers name in the Guinness Book of Records.

    But even from the beginning, peace did not prevail in pumpkin land. Out on the West Coast, a rival pumpkin organization, the International Pumpkin Association, had taken root. Terry Pimsleur, a publicist who represents a pumpkin festival near San Francisco, was its leader. Pimsleur, Waterman and Dill initially talked about merging. They met at Waterman’s restaurant in 1983 and egos collided. Pimsleur said Waterman “tried to keep me out of all the pictures.” Waterman says Pimsleur “tried to take over.” Neither had a kind word for the other – and still doesn’t. “Don’t believe anything Waterman tells you,” Pimsleur says.

    And disenchantment with Waterman began to spread. By 1993, relations were so bad that four of the largest WPC weigh-offs – in Topsfield, Mass.; Windsor, Nova Scotia; Anamosa, Iowa; and Nuttree, Calif. – abandoned Waterman and the WPC and created a third international pumpkin organization, the Great Pumpkin Commonwealth. Dill and Wiberg led the revolt. “Boxing has three different champions,” said Wiberg. “So do we.”

    Waterman, sitting in his restaurant recently, eating a slab of pumpkin pie, seethed over the situation. “I made it happen,” he said of the success of the pumpkin weigh-off. “I made the damn happen.” He accused other growers of jealousy, of spreading lies and gossip about him, of using their rival newsletters for “yellow journalism – or, in this case, orange.”

    “They want to take the credibility of the World Pumpkin Confederation and put it to their own use,” he said, then vowed: “I won’t let that happen.”

    In 1994, however, the top 10 pumpkins in the world weighed off at Great Pumpkin Commonwealth sites. Nothing fueled this exodus from the World Pumpkin Confederation more than what Ray Waterman did to Donald Black and his 884-pound pumpkin in the fall of 1993.

    On July 3, Tony Ciliberto rose at 5 a.m. and started his drip lines, hoses rounding his five giant pumpkin plants. This was a critical day. This morning he would pollinate his pumpkins. His plants were now full grown, vines as thick as pipes, leaves larger than toilet seats. The plants were strong and green and healthy and ready to begin the second half of the season, actually growing the pumpkin.

    Growers hand-pollinate for one primary reason. They want to mate a Michael Jackson with a Lisa Marie Presley, a male blossom from a Bax 990 with a female from a Dejong 945.5. Such hopeful pollination won’t make this year’s pumpkin any bigger, but the next generation of seeds could be Herculean. The single best explanation for the dramatic rise in pumpkin size over the last few years is the superior seed. In 1984, a 500-pounder was still a dream. Now experienced growers consider a 500-pounder a failure.

    Each pumpkin plant produces male and female flowers. The female flower is fertile for only six hours. If the bees or the growers, don’t come calling, that flower will produce no pumpkin. Growers like Ciliberto inspect their patches each night beginning in late June, and on into early July, looking for female flowers that seem ready to open the next morning. Then they arrive before dawn, ahead of the bees.

    Ciliberto, on his hands and knees, pulled back the giant leaves of the Mark Woodward 511 plant, reached down and gingerly snapped off one male blossom, and then another, like Romeo picking flowers for Juliet. Like most champions growers, Tony never actually sets foot in his patch. He stands or kneels on small pieces of wood, the size of cafeteria trays, to avoid compacting the dirt. To move about, he picks up the board behind him and places it in front of him. Tony steered a path out of the 51 1 plant and over to the open flower on the Joel Holland 827.

    He kneeled again, peeled off the petals of the male – the same way a romantic would play “she loves me, she loves me not” – and held only a long, firm stamen in his hand. Little particles of pollen covered the stamen like a fine yellow dust. Ciliberto reached in and robustly painted the female pistil with the stamen, spreading the pollen all around. This was hardly a delicate gesture. Ciliberto looked like a backyard barbecuer swabbing his chicken with sauce. He repeated the process with another stamen, just for good measure.

    Ciliberto pollinated several flowers that morning. And he would again for several mornings to come, pollinating several female flowers on each plant. Then he would watch. Carefully. At the base of every female blossom is a small pumpkin, about the size of a lemon drop. Once the flower has been pollinated, this pumpkin will grow. Swell. In the coming weeks, Tony Ciliberto would coldly, repeatedly, make life-and-death choices – choosing just one pumpkin per plant to grow. The others get aborted with his pocket knife. Cut and heaved into the compost pile. If he wants to win, there’s no other way.

    In that fall of 1993, Don Black weighed his champion pumpkin on a tarp. Most weigh-off sites use a tarp. It’s a faster and safer way to lift pumpkins on and off the scales. After they weigh the pumpkin, officials weigh the tarp. Don Black’s pumpkin weighed 890 with the tarp. The tarp weighed 6 pounds. A weight of 884 was verified by two government agricultural experts who served as judges, and a representative of the Toledo Scale Co., present at the Great Pumpkin Commonwealth weigh-off in Nova Scotia.

    Don Black had set the record. Or had he?

    Twelve hundred miles away, on the shores of Lake Huron, in Port Elgin, Ontario, on that very same afternoon, Norm Craven’s pumpkin was weighed and recorded at 836 pounds, the second largest pumpkin after Don Black’s. Port Elgin is a World Pumpkin Confederation site, under the auspices of Ray Waterman. Port Elgin’s sponsors offered their winner a new pickup truck, and Craven drove home a happy man. A few days later, Craven would drive that new pickup to New York City and appear on Regis and Kathie Lee with his 836-pound pumpkin.

    This didn’t bother Black. Because he knew in the next edition of the Guinness Book of Records, to be published in September 1994, he would be listed as the world record holder. His name would be there, Donald Black, in all 1.3 million copies. But when the book came out, Don Black couldn’t believe his eyes. He saw Norm Craven’s name instead of his. There was no mention of Don

    Black or his 884-pounder. Nothing. Not a word. Ray Waterman was responsible for this. Don Black went home and took every WPC plaque he had ever won, threw them all into a metal barrel in his backyard, and burned them.

    Waterman simply refused to recognize Black’s pumpkin, and he had the ear of the Guinness people. His reason was simple, and he defends it today. WPC rules state clearly that no pumpkin can be weighed with a tarp. Even though this is a common practice around the world, Waterman is absolute. “I’m just out to protect the sport,” he contends. He told the Guinness people to ignore Don Black. And they did.

    Howard Dill hired a lawyer, who sent a barrage of letters and legal papers to the Guinness folks in England. Dill and his supporters argued that everyone uses a tarp, that a tarp couldn’t possibly weigh 48 pounds, the difference between Black’s and Craven’s pump ins. But the Guinness people held firm. So then Dill and his people went after Norm Craven and his pumpkin. Craven’s pumpkin, they contended, was weighed with a tarp, too. And worse. Much worse.

    “Norm Craven was in my workshop the night before he was to leave for Port Elgin,” recalled Phil Lillie, a veteran pumpkin grower. “He cried to me it was rotten under the bottom. But he thought they might not inspect it. And he had the stem with silicone in it, because the stem was all split. He was saying, `Gosh, you know, it’s going to be disqualified. But I’ll take it. Maybe they’ll never notice.’ The judges didn’t notice because it was so big. They were so overwhelmed by the size.”

    Harry Willemse, 41, a Canadian and 13-year veteran grower, was also at Port Elgin at the weigh-off. “It’s questionable whether Norm’s pumpkin should have qualified for the weigh-off,” he said. “One of the rules is the pumpkin must be solid, and no soft spots. Basically, it was rotting. You could just see the juice seeping out slowly. Norm’s, had a very wide split in it and it was seeping out. He must have plugged it up with something, for it to be oozing out like that.”

    Craven denies all of this. “All made-up stories,” he says. Craven lost many friends in the pumpkin world by remaining silent. Through his own inaction he allowed Don Black to be denied. “Nobody’s happy for you,” says Craven. “Just the opposite. They’re out to get you.”

    Meanwhile, the poor Guinness people have found themselves in the middle of an awful fight.

    Sarah Llewellyn-Jones, the deputy editor who handles vegetable records, was exasperated in a recent telephone interview. “We have more than 10,000 records in the Guinness book,” she said. “This has been the most troublesome one ever…. You have the truth being perverted time and time again. None of them I can trust anymore.”

    Guinness is considering dropping pumpkins altogether.

    ON SUNDAY, SEPT. 10, TONY CILIBERTO BUILT A house. Around his pumpkin. He drove in eight-foot stakes around the plant grown from the seed of Joel Holland’s 722- pounder – one plant occupying an area almost the size of a tennis court – and covered the wooden frame with Remay, a fiberglass that traps in heat, but allows water and light to pass through.

    On this date, Tony’s pumpkin was among the largest in the world – estimated at 903 pounds. It rose high and muscular off the ground, rippling, like the neck of a bull. The color was a tender orange, tending toward cantaloupe.

    Every Monday, Tony entered his patch with a tape measure and chronicled the growth, beginning with pollination on July 3. On July 10 he wrote “size of a baseball.” July 17: “50 inches in circumference, bigger than basketball.” A week later it was 86 inches around and a week after that 114.

    On this Sunday morning, his pumpkin was 164 inches around, or nearly 14 feet. It was 104 inches over the top one way 99 inches the other, for a total of 361 inches – rather auspicious, given that Herman Bax’s 990 was 371 inches. And Tony still had time on his side.

    Tony calculated his pumpkin’s weight by using Len Stellpflug’s chart, a bible among pumpkin growers. Stellpflug, a retired Kodak engineer, had plotted these three measurements taken from scores of pumpkins over the years and used regression analysis to calculate a pumpkin’s weight. The chart wasn’t a guarantee, but it was a good reference point.

    All summer, Tony had gotten the sunshine he wanted. His leaves loved the sun, which threw photosynthesis into high gear and fed his pumpkin well. But on the flipside, he knew that too much direct sun on the pumpkin itself could be fatal, and he kept the pumpkin garaged under plywood during July and August. “The sun actually can cook them,” said Tony. “The temperature inside a pumpkin, it can get so high they actually explode.”

    The summer drought didn’t bother his plants, either. Tony just kept his wellwater flowing, telling his wife to hold off on the wash as much as possible. He rerouted his drain pipes and sent water from the household shower and sinks into his patch. But summer was now rapidly turning to autumn. And now he needed to keep his pumpkin warm, to keep it growing 3-1/2 more weeks. The temperature in the mountains had dipped to 32 the previous night. His new greenhouse would keep his pumpkin warm, perhaps keep it growing. The weigh-off was Oct. 7.

    He had 26 days to gain 97 pounds.

    On Thursday, Oct. 5, just two days before the international weigh-off, a dozen men assembled at Tony Ciliberto’s house. Hurricane Opal arrived about the same time. Normally, Tony would have left his pumpkin on the vine one more night. But he had a big decision to make – where to take his pumpkin for weigh-off, a GPC site or a WPC site? It all depended on the weight.

    Waterman had announced he would pay $50,000 to any grower who came to a WPC site with a 1,000-pound pumpkin. Many growers were skeptical. “He’ll never pay scoffed Don Black. Tony was planning to go to Ottawa, a GPC site, but the $50,000 was calling him. He had to know.

    So Tony and his pals, including his brother Dino, descended into the patch, now a pen of mud. The patch Tony tended so carefully was trampled by men, as Tony ripped vines out of the way so they wouldn’t trip. His wife and kids and parents and in-laws all stood in the rain and watched. Tony pulled out his knife and cut the umbilical chord. The pumpkin was free.

    The men surrounded the pumpkin. They needed to roll it on one side, and then the other, to slide the tarp beneath it. Tony pushed harder than anyone. “Arrrgghhhhhh!” He winced like a woman in childbirth.

    The men hoisted the pumpkin and placed it gently on its throne: a skid covered with straw resting on a forklift.

    Tony Ciliberto, who hadn’t smoked a cigarette in more than a year, lit a Newport.

    The forklift driver placed the pumpkin carefully on two old scales Tony had placed side- by-side on his driveway. The rain stopped and the sky cleared, if only for a moment. The crowd gathered around. Tony balanced one scale, while Dino balanced the other.

    “What are you at, Dino?”, Tony asked.

    “397,” said Dino.

    “I’m at 510,” said Tony.

    A voice in the crowd yelled out, “907!”

    There was silence. The skies were gray again. Rain was falling.

    “She’s not even 900 pounds,” Tony said with disbelief, “We’ve got to subtract for the skid and the tarp. She’s about 847.”

    “Can’t be,” said his wife.

    “No way,” said his dad.

    Tony just circled his pumpkin. He was devastated, but his expression did not betray him.

    He did not mourn the $50,000 he would never see – no, that money never seemed real anyway. Tony felt broken-hearted. Like a seductress, this pumpkin had romanced him, had led him on, only in the end to deceive him.

    That night, he called Don Black.

    “She’s a lightweight, Don,” he said with merciless honesty. “She just didn’t measure up.”

    TONY, JOAN AND THE KIDS towed the pumpkin to Ottawa, which might as well have been Cooperstown. Herman Bax and Barry Dejong were there. So were Don Black and Len Stellpflug and many other big growers in the pumpkin world.

    The weigh-off was held at Farmer Gus’s pumpkin farm. All the veterans could tell immediately that Paula Zehr’s was the pumpkin to beat. Tony and Don checked it out. Tony knocked on it with his fist.

    “No thud there at all,” said Tony, “Solid.”

    “Oh, yeah,” agreed Don. “The meat is 10 inches thick, easy.”

    Tony’s pumpkin weighed officially at 845. Paula Zehr’s weighed in at 963, the heaviest in the world this year. Her pumpkin had virtually the same dimensions as Tony’s on the Stellpflug scale, but carried an extra 118 pounds.

    Perhaps the difference was maternal. Twice each day, Zehr hugged her pumpkin.

    “For about five minutes at a time,” she said.

    Obviously the pumpkin responded.

    Tony clapped for Paula, and walked over to congratulate her. But as she stood behind the scale with her champion, posing for the networks, the tears rolling down her cheeks, Tony’s eyes seemed watery, too, welling with disappointment.

    Tony Ciliberto is accustomed to setback. After all, he is a pumpkin grower. He knew and his wife knew and every grower there knew this sadness would soon pass. The quest for the first 1,000-pound pumpkin would continue.

    “We’ll be back again,” Tony said, gazing off into the middle distance, perhaps already thinking about next year’s seeds. “We’ll be back again.”

    – By Michael Vitez



    Daddy, am I done watering?Daddy, am I done watering?

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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Bog Garden Design and Plants

    Bog Garden Design and Plants

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    No water garden is complete without a bog garden as some of the most beautiful and interesting plants thrive in such situations. Many ponds and lakes have a natural perennially damp surround which requires no more attention before introducing plants than to remove unwanted weeds.

    If the pond is fed by a natural water supply, it is usually possible to channel the overflow into surrounding land, thus producing an area which is permanently moist without being waterlogged. Alternatively, any low-lying site with a clay subsoil can be periodically flooded over with water to produce a bog garden. During the winter months, rain will supply all the moisture that is required as most bog plants are then dormant.

    To make a bog garden on raised ground or where the drainage is very free, creates a different problem which, however, can be overcome with a little effort. Excavate the site to a depth of 38cm (15in) and line the area with poor quality concrete consisting of 12 parts of ballast to 1 part of cement or even weaker, or cover the base with slates, tiles or asbestos sheets slightly overlapping. Another idea is to line the base with a single layer of 500 gauge polythene sheeting perforated in a few places so that it allows water to leak away slowly.

    Whatever method is employed, put 6-8cm (23in) of stones or pebbles over the lining to provide adequate drainage. Cover these with a layer of peat tailings or old turves turned upside down. Replace the soil, incorporating liberal quantities of peat, manure or other fibrous material to hold the moisture during times of drought. When finished, the top soil will look like any other herbaceous border, but the roots of the plants will feel the influence of the water, and such conditions should produce an ideal bog garden. Although it is important to water the area in dry weather, it is equally important never to allow the soil to become waterlogged.

    Suitable plants

    There is a wide range of plants suitable for the bog garden. Some of the more popular and interesting kinds include the aconitums (monkshood). The most commonly grown species is A. napellus, with finely cut leaves and purplish-blue flowers, its variety bicolor, with blue and white flowers, and ‘Newry Blue’, flowering June-July on 1-1.3m (3-4ft) stems.

    Aruncus sylvester (goat’s beard) if space permits, is a wonderful plant for the back of the bog garden, with large plumes of creamy-white flowers in June and foliage very similar to that of the astilbes and growing to 1.3-1.6m (4-5ft). The numerous varieties of astilbe make excellent bog garden plants, but unfortunately they are frequently grown in dry borders with inadequate moisture, where they never acquire their full splendor. Some of the most popular varieties include: ‘Deutschland’, pure white, ‘Fanal’, deep red with reddish foliage, ‘Koblenz’, rose, ‘Red Sentinel‘, very deep red and ‘Rhineland’, bright pink.

    The native marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) in both its single and double-flowered forms, is a fine plant for really moist soils. It makes a bold splash of yellow in spring.

    Gunnera manicata is probably the most impressive bog plant it is possible to grow in this country, but it is only suitable where there is ample room, as in a large water garden. The foliage resembles enormous rhubarb leaves, often reaching 2.5-3.3m (8-l0ft) in diameter, on stems 3.8m (12ft) or more in height. The flowers are brown—borne in heads about m (3ft) long and something like a bottle brush in appearance. Gunneras require plenty of moisture during the growing season but must not become waterlogged, especially during the winter months, when it is necessary to give the crowns protection by packing the dead leaves over the roots. Extra protection with straw or leaves should always be added in very severe weather.

    No garden is complete without hemerocallis (day lily). The species come from Asian riversides and will grow anywhere in the bog garden, in shallow water, in shade or full sun, in heavy wet soil or dry sandy situations. Many hybrids have been produced, giving a wide variety of color from pale yellow to deep red and a flowering period from June to September. Given ample room for development, the plants may be left undisturbed for years. A vast range of hybrids include: ‘C. P. Raffill,’ 0.7m (lift) apricot flowers, July-August; `High Tor,’ 2m (6ft) or more in height, yellow flowers, June-July; ‘Pink Damask,’ rich pink, and ‘Hiawatha,’ 0.7m (2 1/2ft), copper-red.

    Hostas are invaluable semi-shade plants with leaves in various shades of green or green and silver or gold variegations and pale mauve or white flowers. Species include H. fortunei alba, yellow leaves edged with green; H. sieboldiana, blue-green foliage; H. undulata, large oval leaves; H. minor, 30-38cm (12-15 in), pale green leaves and white flowers.

    Iris kaempferi and its forms are the most notable of the bog iris. Natives of Japan they are grown beside the paddy fields which are flooded during the summer months but drained in the winter, thus producing ideal growing conditions. As they are lime haters, they must have adequate peat or leaf mold in the soil. These plants are rarely sold as named varieties, but usually as the ‘Higo Strain’ of hybrids.

    Lysichitum americanum, the skunk cabbage, indigenous to North America, has large bright yellow arum flowers in April, before the leaves, which make a bold show at the pool side during the summer months. L. camtschatcense from Japan has white flowers and is less vigorous than its American counterpart.

    Bog primulas provide some of our best waterside perennials, especially when grown in semi-shade with a background of moisture-loving ferns. Among the best are P. florindae, 0.7m (2.5 ft) sulphur-yellow flowers, June-July; P. japonica splendens, crimson-purple, May-June; P. japonica ‘Postford White’, an outstanding candelabra type with white flowers; P. pulverulenta ‘Bartley Strain’, rose-pink flowers, May-June and P. viali, with mauve flowers, which has bright red buds before opening.

    Moisture-loving ferns make an excellent background for bog and water gardens with some shade. Matteuccia struthiopteris, the ostrich feather fern has symmetrical  1m (3ft) long fronds like a shuttlecock. Onoclea sensibilis (the sensitive fern) thrives in shade and moisture and has pale green fronds, 0.3-0.4m (1-1.5 ft) long; Osmunda regalis the royal fern is a noble plant, easily grown if given an adequate water supply. When well established it reaches 1.6-2m (5-6ft) in height and will set off any bog or water garden.

    Photo credit: Forde Abbey



    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Landscape Design – Prairie Garden

    Landscape Design – Prairie Garden

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    Against a backdrop of gently swaying tall Grasses, this garden recreates the look of a prairie wildflower meadow. Make sure you have enough room for the Saccharum Grass-it gets huge! If space is limited, you may want to use Calamagrostis `Karl Foerster’ in its place. Give this garden a full day’s sun and average soil. Before planting, clear the area of existing grass or weeds. After you have installed the perennials, sow seeds of a nonaggressive Grass, such as Little Bluestem, between them. These will grow into tufts of pretty meadow Grass, lending even more of a naturalistic look while helping to suppress weeds. Just a late-winter cutting of the dried Grasses and stalks is all the maintenance you’ll need to do. Since all of these wildflowers are from sturdy stock, they’ll need supplemental watering only during periods of drought. From midsummer through fall, this little piece of prairie will sing with color.

    Helpful Hints

    • If you don’t have enough room for the Saccharum Grass or if you live in Zone 4 or 5, you can substitute Calamagrostis arundinacea or Calamagrostis’Karl Foerster.’
    • To create a genuine natural effect, plant varieties of the native trees and shrubs of your area into your Natural Selections landscape.
    • All of the perennials in this garden can make excellent cut flower bouquets. Pick the blossoms soon before or after they open for longer-lasting displays.
    • If allowed to set seed, many of the prairie perennials such as Coreopsis, Rudbeckia, Liatris, and Echinacea will rapidly naturalize into the landscape.
    prairieprairie

    a. Achillea ‘Appleblossom’
    b. Achillea ‘Summer Pastels’
    c. Aster ‘Alma Poschke’
    d. Aster ‘Professor Anton Kippenberg’
    e. Aster ‘Purple dome’
    f. Boltonia ;Snowbank’
    g. Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’
    h. Coreopsis ‘Sunray’
    i. Echinacea ‘Magnus’
    j. Echincea ‘White Swan’
    k. Erigeron ‘Azure Fairly’
    l. He;iopsis ‘Summer Sun’
    m. Liatris ‘Floristan White’
    n. Liatris “kobold’
    o. Monarda ‘Marshall’s Delihght’
    p. Oenothers missouriensis
    q. Rudbeckia ‘Goldstrum’
    r. Saccharum ravennae
    s. Scabiosa ‘PinkMist’

    33 Garden Designs for your home:

    Shady Oasis
    Gaining Ground
    Front Door Entrance Design
    Coastal Perennial Garden Design
    White Flower Garden Design
    Grass Garden Design
    Pastel Flower Garden Design
    Rose & Perennial Garden Design
    Bright Colorful Garden Design
    Perennial Corner Garden Design
    Butterfly Hummingbird Design
    Silver & Blue Garden Design
    Bog Garden Design
    Pink Flowers Garden Design
    All Year Flower Garden Design
    Privacy Matter
    Woodland Border
    Hosta Shade Garden Design
    Rock Garden Design
    Cold Hardy Perennial Garden Design
    English Garden Border Garden Design
    Driveway Sidewalk Garden Design
    Prairie Garden Design
    Flower Garden Design
    Entry Shade Garden Design
    Hot & Humid Garden Design
    Flowering Fiesta
    Red White Blue Garden Design
    Late Season Garden Design
    Southwest Dry Garden Design
    Garden for Children
    Butterfly Garden Design
    Hummingbird Garden Design
    Shady Solutions


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Iris grown throughout the seasons

    Iris grown throughout the seasons

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    Iris can be seen growing in early spring and throughout the summer months. Its appearance can be very different from one another with various heights, characteristics, and blossom/leaf color.

    There are two kinds of iris that can flourish in this area. Some are formed by bulbs planted deeply in the soil, others growing from rhizomes, which are horizontally half buried. Distinct characteristics also differentiate this family of plants. Blossoms can be one color or more, have plain or ruffled edges, and be heavily veined or not. Petals can fall deeply towards the ground or be more upright, leaves can be various shades of green or variegated with white or yellow, and blooms can be bearded or not.

    A “beard” is a term used to describe the marking inside the center of each petal. If an iris is bearded, then the central stripe is usually another color (but not always), reaches halfway down the length of the petal, and has fuzzy hairs growing on it. If a plant is called “beardless”, then this marking is without the hair.

    Iris that are formed by bulbs produce thin, grass-like leaves and grow in tight clumps. The many varieties available to the gardener differ dramatically; most grow in drier soils, and some can grow in standing water. There are varieties that bloom in very early spring, such as Iris reticulata, with its bright violet-blue petals, and others that bloom right through the summer. Some need the full sun while others will tolerate part-shade. With all of their distinct features, various groupings placed throughout a flowerbed will provide color for a great length of time.

    The most commonly seen iris for standing in water is the Yellow Flag. With its long green-grey, thin leaves arching gracefully, the bright yellow blossoms rising above stood out. The 4-8 blossoms on each stem can reach up to four feet if given ample compost and ideal conditions, however most grow three feet tall. This plant can also be grown well in drier soil or in large containers, just remember to water it well each day.

    Another type of iris that is regularly grown is called the Siberian Iris. The two most frequently seen varieties available to plant are called “Snow Queen”, which is creamy white with a yellow beard, and “Perry’s Blue” that is a very dark, royal blue with a bright yellow beard. They usually flower in June and July, and once finished their blooming, their arching and graceful leaves give a nice sound when blown in a light breeze. They commonly grow three feet tall and spread slightly with each season.

    The last variety with the most characteristics is the rhizomatous iris. These iris have three categories they fall in: bearded, beardless, and crested. The crested variety is different by sporting ridges in place of the beards. All of these iris have sword-like leaves that fan out that can be plain green or variegated. Most bloom in late May and June, but there are varieties that will bloom in July. These iris range in height from 6 inches to 4 feet, with their flowers spanning anywhere between 2 inches to 7 inches across. With all the colors available, every gardener’s taste can be satisfied.

    Iris can be grown from seed, but it takes at least two years before it will produce a bloom. Purchasing a packaged or potted rhizome or bulb is the easiest method to acquire iris’; remembering to divide your clump every three to five years to keep them healthy and flowering. If the iris is not divided, the clumps get congested, therefore blooming less, and disease and insects can become a problem. One problem to watch for in the rhizomatous iris is the iris borer, which resembles a grub. To help control the infestation of iris borer, it is best to prevent them in the beginning by spraying in the early spring with Cygon 2E using the manufacturer’s instructions. Also, remember to clean up any dead foliage right away and discard of any infested tubers.

    I grow twenty-three different iris in all the various groups I have mentioned. I enjoy their flowers and the texture they provide when not in bloom. This texture provides a smooth transition from one plant to another and adds year-round interest. There are other varieties that I am interested in purchasing this year, now I need to find a place for them, but like most gardeners I am sure to find the room for more.

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    Email: Jennifer Moore
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    Jennifer Moore

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  • Growers Guide for African Violets

    Growers Guide for African Violets

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    I'm so happy you are here!I'm so happy you are here!

    African violet is perhaps the only full-blown paradox that can survive on a windowsill. On one hand, it is a celebrated show plant, with new cultivars eagerly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts. It has its own organization, the African Violet Society of America, and its own magazine, African Violet. A quick Internet search reveals that there are almost as many African violet sites as there are pages for sex and dieting. And yet, these plants are mass-produced by the hundreds of thousands and are readily available for a minuscule price from mom and pop garden centers, enormous mega-merchandisers, and a host of medium-size vendors.

    At mid-winter African violets take a starring role at the front of displays in retail establishments; the rest of the time they languish under lights, ready to be plucked up by desperate souls who just need a little color in the kitchen window. Judging by the place of origin on the plant tags, African violet culture may well be responsible for a large share of Canada’s export revenues. Thanks to the plant wizards who produce Optimara® violets, these plants may also support a hefty portion of Germany’s economy. If African violets could only power automobiles, the growers could take over the world.

    As almost everyone knows, African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) have shallow roots, fuzzy leaves, and five-petaled flowers (except for double varieties), often with an “eye” in the middle. They seem to perform best as houseplants in a bright spot away from direct sunlight. When placed outside, they should be positioned in a shaded location to avoid burning the leaves.

    As cultivated plants go, African violets are a fairly recent innovation. Discovered in East Africa about 100 years ago, they were first cultivated in Germany and Britain and eventually exported to the United States. ‘Blue Boy’, the first American hybrid variety, was introduced in 1927.

    Though the flowers of Saintpaulia resemble those of garden-variety violets, they are not related. African violets are part of the Gesneriaceae family, which also includes Gloxinia and Streptocarpus. True violets, along with pansies, are part of the Violaceae family. They can live outdoors in most places, while African violets are the ultimate insiders. Cultivate both, and you can have a little violet in your life all the time.

    Those who are only familiar with the run of the mill purple, white or pink varieties available everywhere have seen only a fraction of the African violets available. There are miniature violets, trailing varieties, double-flowering cultivars, and plants with variegated foliage. The flowers come in all shades of blue, purple and pink, and the “chimera” or pinwheel type sport dazzling combinations of two or more colors on each petal. There are also red African violets, yellows, and a few with pale green blossoms.

    Another violet paradox is plant culture. Violet aficionados can be slaves to the care of their fuzzy-leafed children, but less committed souls may be just as successful with a lot less effort. I once went to visit an extremely elderly friend in a nursing facility. On her north-facing windowsill, she kept an African violet that was exuberantly healthy, enormously large, and perpetually flowering. It was watered irregularly straight from the tap, and I have no idea whether it was ever fertilized. The only thing that the violet received regularly was admiration for its velvety dark purple flowers.

    The lack of regular water may have been the key. More African violets die of crown rot, usually caused by too much moisture than of anything else. Water the plants only when they are dry, and do not let the pots stand in water. Some experts recommend letting water sit overnight to let the chlorine evaporate before watering. When you water, try not to allow droplets to touch the leaves, as spotting and rotting may occur.

    Garden centers and other retailers carry African violet food, but you can also use any balanced fertilizer to nourish the plants. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for African violets, and remember that too much fertilizer is usually worse than too little.

    Violets that are happy eventually need repotting. You will know when to do it because the roots will completely fill the pot. To repot, remove the plant and install it in a larger container, preferably one on the short wide side. Use fresh potting mix. Make sure to cover the plant’s “neck”, as African violets should not be spindly.

    I am guilty of having passed displays of African violets on many occasions without giving them serious consideration. Now I am intrigued by the florid prose of the online merchandisers and African violet fanciers, and I feel irresistibly drawn to the idea of acquiring a few plants. Yellow is my favorite color, so I have decided to order ‘Heavenly Dawn’, which reportedly has pinkish-gold petals and semi-double flowers. And since one violet will probably not be enough, I am also considering ‘Suncoast Peppermint Kathy’, which has double white blossoms with red edges. Violets are so relatively inexpensive that I am strongly tempted to order lots more. Unfortunately, my windowsill space is somewhat limited, as are the available funds for such purposes.

    If you feel a case of violet attraction coming on, drop by your local garden center or contact African Violets by Fredericks, Inc., Franklin, North Carolina, 28744; tel. (800) 771-0899; www.african-violets.com

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    FRESH VEGGIES


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Planting Clematis

    Planting Clematis

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    Every gardener is familiar with the extraordinary effectiveness of vines in a proper setting, but most of us become discouraged after bad luck. The daintier vines have a habit of developing some unknown illness and dying back unexpectedly, while those which thrive usually do too good a job of it. Many a porch has collapsed under the weight of a husky vine, and many a fence has eventually been relinquished to the stranglehold of some plant which was merely intended to decorate and drape it . . . not to take possession. The lusty vines, which are coarse in growth and bloom, may have a definite place in our gardens, but they are just about as subtle as Niagara Falls.

    A well-grown Clematis has none of these objectionable characteristics. Even the hardiest of them has a very deceptive daintiness about it, and they are readily kept under control, while the less rampant growers in the group are as exquisite as old lace. Their culture and maintenance is simple, and the variety of stock now available should make your mouth water.

    Growing ClematisGrowing Clematis
    Clematis

    By and large, Clematis prefer neutral to alkaline soil, good drainage, and shade at their roots. The first two of these requirements can be taken care of by mixing crushed limestone with the soil at the bottom of the planting hole. Or you may set your plant in sharp sand and mix some lime with the soil which you replace. The necessary shade can be provided either by mulch or by other plant material. Protected this way, they are amazingly resistant to summer heat and drought. While the roots want shade, the tops want sun, so unless you have a lode wall or building to provide the naturally ideal location, plant them in the sun, and give the needed root shade by some artificial method.

    Pruning requirements demand some knowledge of the individual species on hand. As a general rule, those which bloom in summer or fall should be cut back in early spring, since they flower on new wood. Thin them out a bit, and leave from two to three feet of growth on the remaining shoots. The early spring flowering varieties bloom on old wood, and only the usual shaping up and removal of dead wood is necessary.

    Nurserymen divide Clematis roughly into large and small flowering varieties. Both groups contain their aristocrats, and you will be missing some very handsome specimens if you confine your purchases to the large flowering sorts. They vary not only in color but in floral shape and number of petals. A majority of the large-flowering types which open wide tend to have six petals, in the single forms; while the small flowering- forms and those which remain partially closed and bell-shaped seem to prefer four petals, though there are exceptions to both these tendencies. Colors range from pinks, purples, lavenders, blues and whites to vivid scarlet and butter yellow. The floral pattern maybe anything from a frothy raceme or panicle to single blooms borne as individually as a Rose. Hybridists have elaborated the already attractive species until the present list of available Clematis is a treasure-house to lure any gardener into wangling a vine where he never even wanted one.

    Among the large-flowering sorts, C. jackmani needs no introduction. It is probably the best known of all Clematis, blooming from mid-summer until frost, and even solving the pruning problem by dying back each winter. An improved form is the new C. jackmani superba, while a reddish variety has also been introduced in C. jackmani rubra.

    For those who like double varieties, Belle of Woking is a good light blue, and Duchess of Edinburgh a fine white. The double varieties seem to lack the distinctive charm of the clearcut singles, but among the doubles, these two are certainly good.

    Flowering vine plantsFlowering vine plants
    Clematis

    Comtesse de Bouchaud is a fairylike thing, with white petals edged lavender, delicately curled. Under favorable conditions, it is pink. Two handsome winners are Crimson King and Mme. Edouard Andre, while Duchess of Albany is a brilliant rose-pink, lighter at the edges, the slightly cupped petals giving this variety an interesting shape.

    C. henryi is an unusually fine white, with dark-tipped anthem providing an effective contrast to its dazzling purity of color. Lord Neville is a very dark, velvety blue-purple, while Elsa Spath and Ville de Paris are somewhat lighter purple, the former being the bluer of the two.

    Among the lighter lavenders and blues are Ramona, Lawsoniana, Mme. BaronVeillard, and that dainty pale blue, Mrs. Cholmondeley. Then there is the very unusual Kermesina, with only four petals, deeply veined, somewhat curled, and a bright rosy red in color.

    In the small-flowered group are some lovely and unique specimens. Those with partially closed, pendulous flowers are C. crispa, C. texensis, and C. tangutica obtusiuscula. The first, C. crispa, is a very handsome species, the outside of the petals being lavenderpurple, edged in white, with the inner side a rich burgundy. The yellow anthers in the center set off this unusual flower to perfection. C. texensis is equally striking, with its fire-red buds, unfolding at the tips to disclose a lighter flame interior. C. tangutica has four pendulous but separate petals of butter yellow, with green stamens. It is a curious thing, quite unlike its brothers and sisters, and the fruit in the fall is as showy as the blossoms.

    C. montana undulata is another fourpetaled species whose blossoms unfurl a. delicate pink. The new C. troutbeckiana has lavender flowers as does the older Spingarn variety of C. jouiniana. In fact, for those who know only the common C. paniculata. in the small-flowering group, there is a great surprise in store when you investigate this little known section of the Clematis family.

    The small-flowering varieties naturally bear more flowers than do the large-flowering sorts, but the large blossoms cover more area, so there is no rule to follow if you want. showy specimens. Each species is distinct, and all have their own peculiar charm. They bloom at different times of year, and there are at least twice again as many good types not included in this scanty list. Careful choice would certainly eliminate anything approaching monotony, even if every vine in your garden were a Clematis.

    Getting Acquainted With Clematis

    R. LAYTON


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • How to build a Garden Pond

    How to build a Garden Pond

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    You need this in your perennial border.You need this in your perennial border.

    Gardening jobs are just like any other job; sometimes, they seem daunting. Where to start? What is more daunting than starting with a weed-filled field?

    The Challenge

    The task was to transform this wilderness into an attractive, natural-looking landscape. In the distance, you can see a number 0f rambling, overgrown hawthorns with a tree growing through them. These hid a beautiful view of trees and open fields.

    Designing the Garden

    We wanted the finished garden to look like an extension of the surrounding landscape. The most distinctive existing feature was an old lamppost. The client wanted it to stay but felt it needed a new life.

    A natural-looking pond with a cascade was added under the lamppost to add interest. Since the lamp is lit at night, the client could benefit from this feature anytime.

    The overgrown hawthorn made the garden dark, so we decided that it would be best cut down to about three feet high and made it into a hedge. This allows much more light into the garden, which is perfect for the border plants we wanted to use. It also opens up the stunning views of the surrounding countryside.

    We used an informal, curved patio leading to a lawn. The overall effect is a garden that draws charm from its country setting.

    Construction
    The first job was to clear all those weeds! There were three options: hand weeding, removing the top couple of inches of soil by skimming them off with a spade or using a weed killer.

    Hand weeding is very time-consuming and labor-intensive, and we did not want to lose topsoil from the garden, so we decided to use a glyphosate chemical weed killer. This is a sensitive issue and you have to be aware of the need to be sparing with the use of chemicals. This particular type is sprayed on and absorbed by the vegetation but is neutralized on contact with the soil.

    Tips from the Design Team

    • Do not to use weed killer spray if conditions are windy. You may risk damaging precious plants.
    • Be careful where you walk after spraying. Weed killer on the soles of your boots can easily rub off as you cross your prized lawn. Days later you will find your footsteps reappearing as patches of scorched and withered grass. Believe me – we speak from experience!

    A Golden Pond
    Deck Pond
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    Pond Designs
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    Trellis

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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Growing Guide for Pyrethrum – Chrysanthemum

    Growing Guide for Pyrethrum – Chrysanthemum

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    From the Greek pyr, fire, probably with reference to fever, since the plant was used medicinally to assuage fever (Compositae). These hardy plants are admirable for a sunny border and last well as cut flowers. Long known as pyrethrum they are botanically classified under Chrysanthemum.

    Species cultivated

    • P. roseum (syn. Chrysanthemum coccineum), 1-2 feet, with large, daisy-like flowers in May and June. The color is variable from red to white, occasionally tipped with yellow. The leaves are vivid green, graceful and feathery, Caucasus and Persia.
    • There are many hybrids, both single and double. Single 2-2 1/2 feet, ‘Allurement’, rich pink; ‘Avalanche’, pure white; ‘Brenda’, bright carmine; ‘Bressingham Red’, large crimson; ‘Eileen May Robinson’, clear pink; ‘Kelway’s Glorious’, glowing scarlet; ‘Salmon Beauty’, bright salmon-rose. Double 2-2 1/2 feet, ‘Carl Vogt’, pure white; ‘Lord Rosebery’, velvety red; ‘Madeleine’, lilac-pink ; ‘Yvonne Cayeux’, pale sulphur-yellow. For the plant sometimes listed as Pyrethrum parthenium, the feverfew, see Chrysanthemum parthenium.

    Cultivation

    A well-drained loamy soil and a sunny position suit pyrethrums best. though they will grow well on chalky soils. They require ample moisture when coming into bud and during the growing season. Plant in March and leave them undisturbed for three or four years. If left longer the plants will deteriorate and the flowers become smaller and fewer. Lift and divide in March or after flowering in July, discarding the old, woody pieces. Each year cut the plants hard back after flowering. This often results in a second crop of blooms in late summer or autumn.

    Slugs and rabbits can be a menace but of course, weathered ashes are scattered around and over the crowns, in the autumn this will deter them, as will slug pellets. The plants are somewhat floppy inhabit so some light staking should be provided. Propagation is by division in March or after flowering in July, or by seed sown in a cool greenhouse or frame in spring. (See also Chrysanthemum, C. coccineum).


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Growing Guide for Ornamental Brassica

    Growing Guide for Ornamental Brassica

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    The students have returned to school, your mailbox is crammed with a new crop of seed catalogs, the leaves are falling, and the days are getting shorter. Drive by your local garden center or roadside stand and the displays are filled with ornamental kales and cabbages. Autumn has arrived.

    Long after the first snowfall and frost have erased most traces of life in your garden, ornamental kale and cabbage glow brightly in beds and containers. Both are members of the Brassica family, which also includes broccoli, turnip, mustard, and cauliflower.

    These biennial crops are grown as annuals, and come in a beautiful range of colors and leaf shapes. Flowering cabbage has broad, flat, leaves, while the leaves of kale are curly and frilly around the edges. The plants come in shades of white, green, pink, coral, purple, and red, and they often grow about a foot wide and 15 inches tall. Their colors, which are concentrated in the center of the plant, intensify as the temperatures get lower, a characteristic loved by gardeners.

    Ornamental cabbage and kale look beautiful in the front of a border or mixed together in window boxes and containers. Combine them with chrysanthemums, sedum, ornamental grasses, and asters for a beautiful fall scene. Their shallow root systems make it easy to transplant them from the garden to the indoors.

    Place them in eight- or ten-inch pots in bright light and a cool location for a long-lasting display. You also can use them in flower arrangements. For a quick and easy tabletop arrangement, rest a plant–roots and all–in an opaque shallow vase. To keep the plants thriving, remove their lower leaves as they begin to fade.

    Ornamental cabbage and kale are generally planted in late summer, since they are more prone to pest damage in warmer months. Although very hardy, they require rich, organic soil, full sun, and regular watering. The plants should be spaced approximately 12 to 14 inches apart and fertilized once every three weeks with an all-purpose fertilizer. Mulching helps to keep the lower leaves from coming in contact with the soil. The seeds can be planted outside in early summer.

    Cabbageworms, aphids, and flea beetles prey upon kale and cabbage. Growing them in the cooler months takes care of this problem, but you can cover them with floating row cover to keep the bugs from reaching them.

    Many people cook and eat kale, which contains beta-carotene, calcium, and vitamin C. The leaves can be blanched, steamed, or stir fried, or added to soup. But avoid eating the roots of the plant, which are harmful.

    To store the leaves after picking them, wash them in cold water, pat them dry, and wrap them in paper towels. Place them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator and they will last up to a week (after that, the leaves start to wilt and the flavor grows harsh). And if you’re looking for a pretty way to perk up your Thanksgiving table, just pop out to the garden and pick a few leaves to garnish a platter.

    ORNAMENTAL BRASSICA: MORE THAN JUST CABBAGES

    By Diana Lawrence
    Extension Master Gardener
    University of Vermont


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil

    Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil

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    I’m embarrassed to admit that I’d been gardening for 12 years before I had my soil tested. In previous years, I considered testing my soil, but when I looked into how to test your soil, it seemed complicated and expensive. 

    The more I gardened, however, I wanted to know (not guess!) what was going on in my soil. I first saw the MySoil Test Kits on Instagram and thought they looked simple and inexpensive enough to try soil testing.

    Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your SoilSoil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil

    I sent my first test kit to MySoil in 2020, and I’ve used it to test my soil ever since. The soil testing process is simple and quick. I get my results back within a few days with recommendations about what my soil needs. 

    Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your SoilSoil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil

    Now, I test my soil at the beginning of our growing seasons (early spring and fall) and give my soil what it actually needs rather than what I think it needs. 


    When to Test Your Soil

    We ask a lot of our garden soil. Plants need to sprout, grow, and produce a harvest within a few weeks or months. “A healthy garden starts with healthy soil.” Testing your soil takes the guesswork out of what your soil needs.

    Plants may give you signs that nutrient levels are not ideal, including:

    • Purple leaves are likely due to a phosphorus deficiency.
    • Yellow leaves with green veining may mean a lack of iron.
    • Green leaves with yellow centers can mean many things, including a lack of nitrogen.

    Good times to test your soil include:

    • At the beginning of each season.
    • Mid-season to check on nutrient levels before fertilizing.
    • If your garden is not performing well.

    A soil test will confirm your suspicions and/or give you a clearer picture of what is happening with your soil. Armed with this information, you can successfully treat the “root of the problem,” not just the symptoms.


    How to Test Your Soil in 5 Simple Steps


    1. Decide how many kits you need and order them

    Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your SoilSoil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil

    If the same soils are used across your garden with similar management, then you may just need one kit.

    If you have different soils (in-ground vs. raised beds, fruit trees, etc.) or different ages of soils (older vs. newer areas), you may need to split each area into its own testing zone. 

    For example, my garden has three sections of raised beds that were added at three different times and a large in-ground area. As such, I use four kits for my garden.

    You can order kits through the MySoil website or on Amazon.

    my garden has 3 different sections of raised beds that were added at 3 different times and a large in-ground area. I use 4 kits for my garden.my garden has 3 different sections of raised beds that were added at 3 different times and a large in-ground area. I use 4 kits for my garden.

    2. Collect and mail the soil sample(s)

    Complete the process of collecting samples separately for each testing area. If you are testing more than one area, label the registration form so you know which test goes with which area. 

    Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box and then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch. Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box and then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch.
    • Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box, then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch.
    Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box and then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch. Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box and then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch.
    • Fill the included scoop (level) with the thoroughly-mixed sample.
    • Dump the filled scoop into the sample jar with the water and nutrient-absorbing capsule.
    Dump the filled scoop into the sample jar with the water and nutrient-absorbing capsule. Dump the filled scoop into the sample jar with the water and nutrient-absorbing capsule.
    • Tighten the lid and put the filled jar in the prepaid mailing envelope.
    • Seal the prepaid envelope and drop it off at the post office
    Seal the prepaid envelope and drop it off at the post office. Seal the prepaid envelope and drop it off at the post office. 

    3. Register your kit(s) and create account

    Once you send off your kit, use the registration forms to register the kit(s) at mysoiltesting.com. Use the portal to track your test.

    Check your email for a notification that your test is ready (mine went to spam, so check spam if you don’t see it within a few days). Sign in to your customer portal and view your report(s) in your dashboard.

    Once you send off your kit, use the registration forms to register the kit(s) at mysoiltesting.com. Use the portal to track your test. Once you send off your kit, use the registration forms to register the kit(s) at mysoiltesting.com. Use the portal to track your test.

    4. Review the test results

    Each report includes a bar graph with a quick view of your results.

    The report shows if any of the nutrients in your soil are either within, below, or above the optimal range. There are results for the soil nutrient availability, pH, and the macro and micronutrients.The report shows if any of the nutrients in your soil are either within, below, or above the optimal range. There are results for the soil nutrient availability, pH, and the macro and micronutrients.

    The report shows whether any of the nutrients in your soil are within, below, or above the optimal range. It also includes results for soil nutrient availability, pH, and macro- and micronutrients.

    The next time you test your soil, you can compare the results to the previous test to see how your soil is improving/changing over time. 


    5. Follow the fertilizer, pH, and micronutrient recommendations

    In addition to your results, the report will show the recommended actions to improve your soil’s nutrient level or pH level. You can see the products they recommend along with application rates.

    Plants need several nutrients to grow well​. These nutrients are normally divided into two groups: macronutrients and micronutrients

    The macronutrients needed by plants are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. 

    Some common micronutrients needed by plants are boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Micronutrients are just as important as macronutrients, just needed in smaller amounts. 

    With your report, you can make informed decisions about which amendments to add and how much to use. It’s best to work the recommended products into the soil before planting. 


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    Angela Judd

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