TO SAY I WAS surprised would be understating it. A lot. When I got the call from the Scott Arboretum at Swarthmore College in Pennsylvania recently that I’d been named as the 2024 recipient of their prestigious Scott Medal, I was completely caught off guard.
I was also very grateful to be added to the list of people awarded the prize since 1930, who “have made an outstanding national contribution to the science and the art of gardening,” the arboretum website says.
Last week I was delighted to get another call from the staff there, this time alerting me that all of you can attend the virtual version of the awards event, free, on March 10 from 4:30 to 6 PM Eastern. I will be there in person, giving a speech (uh-oh!) and trying to remember how to behave in public.
The purpose of the award, the Scott website says, is “to promote a greater love of nature, make the nation more conscious of the beauty of the outdoors, develop a greater knowledge and love of plants and flowers, spread the gospel of better planting and designing, and arouse a wider interest in better planting and more beautiful gardens among all citizens.”
Sounds like something we definitely believe in, yes?
The forest lily, Veltheimia bracteata, aka Cape lily, is an ornamental bulb flower in the Asparagaceae family.
It is native to the Eastern Cape province of South Africa, a scrub plant rambling along wooded shorelines.
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Suited to garden cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, the forest lily prefers light shade and sports pointed clusters of tubular pink blossoms perched atop striking bare stems from late winter to spring.
This article discusses all you need to know to grow the forest lily in your outdoor living space.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Let’s begin with some background.
Cultivation and History
V. bracteata grows from a bulb enclosed in a papery tunic.
The plant has a clumping growth habit with foliage that is semi-deciduous; it’s nearly evergreen in the warmest regions, and the leaves wither and die in cooler areas.
Basal rosettes of strap-like, ruffled, glossy leaves are pale to dark green.
Photo by SAplants, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
Fleshy, bare, green or purple flower stems rise from the rosettes and bear terminal clusters of blooms that open from bottom to top and last approximately four weeks.
In addition to shades of pink ranging from dark to light, the flowers may also be yellowish-green. The erect buds open to reveal drooping or pendant blossoms.
Mature dimensions are 18 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide.
Plants tolerate light frost, provided they are not exposed to morning sun after a moist, cold night. From late summer to fall they undergo a short period of dormancy.
After reclassification, the Veltheimia genus currently contains only two species: V. bracteata and V. capensis.
Photo by Brian du Preez, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
V. capensis, known as the sand lily, has a prominent, fleshy bulb. It grows to about 18 inches tall, has gray-green deciduous foliage, and produces tubular flowers that range from white speckled with red to pink with green or red accents.
This species prefers full to part sun and blooms from fall to winter.
During the late 18th century, many species were brought to Europe by adventurous plant hunters. They found their way to venues at the forefront of horticultural advancement and places like Britain’s Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew.
V. bracteata likely arrived in Britain in 1781. It was originally named Aletris glauca by Scottish botanist William Aiton in 1789 and subsequently moved to the Veltheimia genus.
The Veltheimia genus honors August Ferdinand Graf von Veltheim, an 18th century German mineralogist and geologist, Catherine the Great’s general inspector of mines and saltworks, and the second in Veltheim’s family to oversee the famed Harbke Palace Gardens in Germany.
As you learn more about the forest lily, you may come upon another plant with a similar name, the green-tip forest lily, Clivia nobilis. This species has red tubular blossoms tipped with green and dark green, strapp-like, non-ruffled foliage, and is generally grown as a houseplant.
The forest lily resembles the red hot poker plant, Kniphofia spp., a sun-loving South African perennial with red and yellow tubular flower clusters.
Forest Lily Propagation
To grow the forest lily, you can start with bulbs, seeds, leaf cuttings, or offset divisions, or transplant seedlings or nursery specimens. Let’s look at each method.
In addition to these propagation methods, breeders use in vitro plant tissue culture in a laboratory setting to clone V. bracteata.
From Bulbs
In early fall, select firm and dry bulbs with no soft spots or discolorations. The papery outer tunics should be mostly, if not completely, intact.
Sow them in moistened sandy loam in a pot with a width of at least six inches, or out in the garden. Face the pointy tips upwards and bury them about an inch deep, with the neck exposed.
Place them in a shady location.
Keep the soil evenly moist. When the leaves sprout, water when the top inch of soil is dry and fertilize with a diluted liquid plant food every two weeks.
From Seeds
By midsummer, little puffy capsules containing seeds appear. When they are dry, it’s time to harvest the black seeds within them for fall planting.
Store them in an airtight jar in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight until the fall, when the weather is cooler and more suitable for sowing.
Use a seed tray or peat pots with a depth of three inches. Sow the seeds in sandy loam approximately a tenth of an inch deep. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and place the sowed seeds in a shady outdoor location.
Seeds must undergo a day-to-night temperature change to germinate. They usually sprout in two to three weeks.
Once the leaves are visible, begin feeding every two weeks with a diluted liquid fertilizer.
In the beginning of the third season, transplant to the garden. Expect flowers in three to four years.
From Leaf Cuttings
Some growers start plants from leaf cuttings. Here’s how:
Water the plant thoroughly the day before you take your cutting. Fill a six-inch container with sandy loam or well-draining potting mix.
Use a clean knife to slice through a mature leaf near its base without damaging neighboring foliage.
Dip the cut end into rooting hormone powder.
Bury the leaf just deep enough to allow it to stand upright. If the leaf is unwieldy, you can slice it in half widthwise and use the top half instead of the whole leaf.
Keep the soil evenly moist. The leaf will gradually die as offsets form at its base. Transfer offsets to the garden as desired.
By Offset Division
The time to divide offsets is in late summer during dormancy, when blooming is finished, and in cooler regions, when the leaves have withered.
Carefully dig around and beneath a clump of bulbs to unearth them. Brush the soil off, and gently separate the parent bulbs from the offsets that have grown up beside them. You can relocate tiny, immature bulbs, but they won’t bloom until they grow as large as the parents.
Replant divided offsets and parent bulbs immediately with their necks above the soil line. Discard any that are soft or discolored.
From Seedlings/Transplanting
As mentioned above, seedlings at the beginning of their third season are garden-ready. Plant nursery specimens the day of purchase.
Find a shady location with sandy loam soil. Set the seedlings or nursery plants at the same depth as in their original containers. Space them between 12 and 18 inches apart.
Our next section discusses cultural requirements and plant care.
How to Grow Forest Lilies
A location with light shade is ideal. As mentioned, the soil should be sandy loam, with a pH in the 6.0 to 8.0 range. Excellent drainage is essential to inhibit rotting.
Photo by Rotational, Wikimedia Commons, Public Domain.
After a short late-summer dormancy, new leaves appear in the fall. Begin watering when the leaves sprout and then when the top inch of soil is dry.
If you are growing potted indoor bulbs, keep them cool and dark with minimal moisture. Once they sprout, place them in bright, indirect sunlight and water as described above.
Fertilize twice a month during the growing season, using a liquid product diluted to half strength.
If you are growing a small number of plants and it’s convenient, deadhead entire spent flower stalks before the petal color completely fades to redirect energy into the bulbs for next year’s blooms.
This may be a daunting task if you have a large, mass-planted expanse, so consider it optional.
Post-bloom, let the leaves remain in place to feed the bulb.
If you’re in a cooler area they may turn yellow, then brown, and fall off. Stop fertilizing and watering during the late summer to fall period of dormancy.
Withhold water until you see the first green shoots in the fall.
Growing Tips
With attention to their cultural requirements, forest lilies reward growers with lush foliage and striking blooms. Keep the following in mind to ensure success:
Grow outdoors in Zones 9 to 11 and indoors in other regions.
Provide minimal light and moisture during germination.
Use sandy loam that drains well and has a fairly neutral pH.
Sow in light shade outdoors and bright, indirect sunlight indoors.
Avoid overwatering to inhibit rotting.
Fertilize twice a month during the growing season.
Now, let’s talk about maintenance.
Maintenance
In addition to monitoring water needs and fertilizing during the growing season, it’s beneficial to thin out overcrowded potted or in-ground plants every three to four years by dividing offsets and repotting or transplanting as needed.
Consider deadheading spent flower stems, and if your plants are deciduous, remove the dried brown foliage at the end of the growing season.
The removal of plant debris not only contributes to a tidy landscape, it also inhibits pests and pathogens.
Forest Lily Cultivars to Select
In addition to the straight species, cultivated varieties of V. bracteata are available for the home garden.
Some cultivated varieties you may be able to locate in local nurseries in Zones 9 to 11 are:
‘Cream,’ a rare beauty adorned by creamy petals flushed with pink.
‘Fuchsia Pink,’ a cultivated pink specimen.
‘Lemon Flame,’ a greenish-yellow complement to pink-hued varieties.
Pastel Series, a light pink, peach, and yellow blossom collection.
Managing Pests and Disease
V. bracteata is not prone to pests or diseases. However, caterpillars may chew the flower buds, and excess moisture and poor drainage are an open invitation to slugs and snails.
In addition, bulbs exposed to overly wet conditions are prone to rotting.
Best Uses for Forest Lilies
Whether in the landscape or patio pots, the forest lily commands attention, brightening shade gardens with cheerful blooms.
Mass plant in the dappled light beneath deciduous trees. Plants spread to create a lush, naturalistic display.
Interplant with companions like Cape primrose, clivia, hellebore, and spurflower.
It’s essential that companions have similar cultural requirements. As mentioned, the forest lily needs no water during dormancy and is susceptible to rotting.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Flowering bulb
Flower/Foliage Color:
Shades of pink to greenish-yellow/green
Native to:
Eastern Cape Province, South Africa
Tolerance:
Light frost
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
9-11
Maintenance:
Moderate
Bloom Time:
Winter to spring
Soil Type:
Sandy loam
Exposure:
Light shade
Soil pH:
6.0-8.0
Spacing:
12-18 inches
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
1/10 inch (seeds); same depth as in original container (bulbs/seedlings)
Attracts:
Hummingbirds
Height:
18-24 inches
Companion Planting:
Cape primrose, clivia, hellebore, spurflower
Spread:
12-18 inches
Uses:
Containers, mass planting, naturalized, shade gardens
Growth Rate:
Fast
Family:
Asparagaceae
Water Needs:
Moderate
Genus:
Veltheimia
Common Pests and Diseases:
Caterpillars, slugs, snails; rot
Species:
Bacteata
Like Little Pink Palm Trees
Under ideal growing conditions, V. bracteata is not prone to pests or pathogens and naturalizes readily, increasing its footprint annually and drawing the eye into shady areas of the landscape.
Photo by Jon Richfield, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
Winter-to-spring-blooming forest lilies will make you smile as they bob in the breeze like little pink palm trees in a dreamy oasis. Add V. bracteata to your garden planner today!
Are you growing forest lilies? Let us know in the comments section below.
Above: Early bloomers in February. Photograph by Abraxas3d via Flickr.
Probably not. Daffodils are very hardy and tend not to be bothered by cold or snow. In most cases, daffodil noses that pop up early won’t be harmed. The flowers are still safe below ground. However, if you do have a cold snap, the leaves may get frost damage. If it snows after the flowers have bloomed, so long as it doesn’t get too cold for too long, the flowers will be fine. If you’re concerned, you can add mulch around the plant, or cover the flowers with a makeshift tent, such as a cardboard box.
How do you prevent early blooms in the future?
Above: Narcissus ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ blooms about a month later than more common varieties. Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer, from Gardening 101: Pheasant Eye Narcissus.
If you are concerned and want to try and slow things down for next year, you can do a few things:
Plant them deeper: Most bulbs come with a depth range, plant them at the deep end of the range.
Choose a later-blooming variety: There are some varieties of daffodils that bloom later in the spring.
Add more mulch: Mulch helps keep the soil temperature stable and allows the plant not to be exposed to temp swings.
Our garden is well established and located in central Michigan near Lansing. It has been featured in the GPOD in the past (Dale’s Garden in 2020).
Part of the delight of gardening is to observe plants emerge in springtime and then watch as they mature with the seasons. I have included four sets of pictures from last year that show an area in spring and then later in the year.
This area features tall ostrich ferns (Matteuccia struthiopteris, Zones 3–7) in the background, with hostas, a dwarf Alberta spruce (Picea glauca ‘Conica’, Zones 3–6), and other plants in the front.
This is the same area in late summer in its full glory. It receives full sun for at least two-thirds of the day, but the shade-loving plants still seem to thrive.
A favorite shady area in our garden features a contemplative stone statue. In the spring, white bleeding hearts (Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’, Zones 3–8) and hosta provide a simple setting.
Later in the season the same area is heavily shaded, and a tall hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’, Zones 3–9) provides a stunning backdrop.
We have a large garden area, and ornamental trees are an integral feature. One recent addition to our Japanese garden was a weeping redbud (Cercis canadensis ‘Ruby Falls’, Zones 5–9). This photo shows the tree in bloom in the spring.
As summer approaches, the blossoms are followed by cascading ruby-colored leaves.
This last pair of photos shows a large area east of our house that features a variety of hostas, astilbes, primulas, phlox, and other shade-loving plants.
Later in the summer the hosta and other plants have now exploded. The tree in the background is a weeping purple beech (Fagus sylvatica ‘Purple Fountain’, Zones 4–7).
Revisiting these photos has me excited about spring even though it is at least three months away!
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
A genus of herbaceous perennial plants from tropical America, grown mainly for their ornamental foliage, though some also have showy flowers. They need warm greenhouse treatment in cooler areas. From the Greek dis, twice, chorizo, to part, aner, anther, referring to the 2-valved anthers (Commelinaceae).
Species grown today
Dichorisandra mosaica, 2 feet, leaves green with white veins and other marks, reddish-purple on the undersides, flowers bright blue, autumn, Peru.
Dichorisandra pubescens, 2 feet, flowers blue; var. taeniensis, leaves striped with white, flowers blue and white, Brazil.
Dichorisandra thyrsiflora, 4 feet or more, leaves dark green, flowers 1 dark blue in a 6 inch long spike, summer to autumn, Brazil.
Dichorisandra vittata, 6-12 inches, leaves purplish-green with white stripes, Brazil.
Where to Plant and Grow Dichorisandra
These plants are potted up in March in a compost consisting of loam, leafmould and peat in equal parts, plus a little silver sand. The pots should be in the warmest part of the greenhouse, where a winter temperature of 55-65°F (13-18°C) can be maintained, rising in summer to 75-85°F (24-29°C), when shading from sunlight should be provided.
Water freely from spring to autumn, moderately only in winter and avoid draughts at all times. Propagation is by seeds sown in heat in spring, by division of the plants in March or by cuttings taken at almost any time, rooted in a propagating case with bottom heat.
Small, hardy, evergreen shrubs which grow wild in many parts of Europe and in a few localities in North America. They belong to the Heath family, Ericaceae. The name is derived from kallunein, to sweep. Branches are used as brooms. Only one species. is known, Callunas vulgaris, the common Heather or Scotch Heather, but it has many varieties which differ widely in stature, the color of flowers and color of leaves.
It is a typical moorland plant and grows in profusion in Europe, often covering hundreds of acres, where there is little or no lime in the soil. The plants grown by florists as pot plants and sold as heathers are more accurately heaths. They belong to the botanical genus Erica.
For Peaty and Sandy Soil. Where they thrive, Callunas are excellent plants for peaty and sandy soil; but they must not be planted where there is lime in the soil. They are hardy at New York City, but not generally so in more severe climates. Although they can be used in formal beds, Callunas are seen at their best in more natural plantings where they can grow into irregular masses.
They are unsuited for wet, ill-drained land. Before planting, the ground is simply dug over and small plants are put in about 12-18 in. apart in early fall or spring. They give little or no trouble in soil of the kind described provided they are in a sunny location. Each spring before new growth begins the shoots of the previous season should be sheared off close to their bases. Winter protection in the form of branches of evergreens laid over them is helpful in severe climates.
When to Take Cuttings. Cuttings of young shoots an inch or so long are dabbled in a firm bed of sandy peat and are covered with a cold frame or bell jar out of doors in July and August, or they may be inserted in sand and peat moss in a greenhouse in fall.
Branches attached to growing plants are sometimes weighed down with stones and covered with sandy soil outside in spring and removed as rooted plants two years later. The common heather can be raised from seed sown in spring in flats of sandy peat or in a bed of sandy peat in a cold frame or out of doors; the seeds need not be covered with soil, but must be kept shaded until germination has taken place. Choice, selected varieties do not reproduce themselves true from seeds.
Some Beautiful Varieties. There are many varieties of heather, the following being some of the most beautiful;
Callunas alba plena, double, white, 18 in.
Callunas Alportii, crimson, 2 ft.; aurea, gold-tinted foliage in autumn
If you’re avoiding white sugar but long for that sugary sweetness, there’s an easy-to-grow herb you can cultivate to get your fix.
It’s not a showstopper. This isn’t an herb that can serve double-duty as an ornamental and an edible, and it looks kind of weedy in the garden. But rub a leaf between your fingers, and you’ll understand just how special this plant is.
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The deep green, purple-green, or reddish green lanceolate leaves resemble spearmint, but the scent and flavor is totally unique.
Nibble or smell the foliage, and you’ll be treated to an intensely sweet treat with just a hint of camphor to temper the experience.
Aztec sweet herb has long been used to add sweetness to meals, but it’s primarily employed as a medicinal remedy. These days, I think it has massive potential as a kitchen herb for those of us who are avoiding table sugar.
However you intend to use it, you have to figure out how to make it happy in the garden first if you want to produce your own crop. Right?
We’ve got you covered. This guide will make it easy to grow Aztec sweet herb. Here’s what we’ll go over to help make that happen:
Ready for some sugar, spice, and everything nice? Here we go!
What Is Aztec Sweet Herb?
Also known as Aztec sweet herb (sometimes spelled sweetherb), honeyherb, Mayan mint, yerba dulce, bushy lippia, or Mexican lippia, Phyla dulcis (syn. P. scaberrima or Lippia dulcis) is an herbaceous perennial native to the Caribbean Islands, Central America, Colombia, Mexico, and Venezuela.
It was known as Tzopelic Xlhuitl to the Aztecs in the Nahuatl language. The leaves have a naturally sweet flavor that is incredibly intense.
That sweet flavor comes from a sesquiterpene compound known as hernandulcin. To our taste buds, it comes across as 1,000 times more sweet than table sugar.
In addition to the sweetness, it has a slightly minty aftertaste thanks to the camphor and limonene it contains. These compounds also give it a slightly bitter taste, which might be a good thing if you prefer your food to not just be purely sweet.
The plant has deep green, purple-green, or reddish-green lanceolate leaves with toothed margins, and it produces clusters of small, clover-like, white flowers in the spring.
These insect-pollinated, hermaphroditic flowers can last for months. They are edible, along with the leaves and seeds.
Note that consuming too much camphor can be dangerous, particularly for kids.
The compound is potentially toxic, and the volatile oil in Aztec sweet herb is about 50 percent camphor. Use this herb sparingly.
Sweetherb can tolerate a brief frost, but anything below 30°F will kill it. That means it’s hardy to USDA Growing Zone 9b, or you can grow it as an annual in other regions.
If it’s exposed to temperatures below about 50°F, the leaves will turn red, but the plant will recover and send out new green growth with the return of warm weather.
In full sun, the leaves can be brownish or purple.
Cultivation and History
As its chief common name suggests, this plant was used by the Aztec people in Central America as both food and medicine.
Modern records indicate the herb was used in the late 1800s in Mexico as a commercial drug to treat coughs and bronchitis.
It continues to be used medicinally in Mexico, but its purported health benefits have been broadened to include varied uses, as an abortifacient and to treat hypertension, for example.
There is little evidence Mexicans historically used this herb as a food. This may in part be because the availability of purely sweet flavors like what you find in refined sugar is generally a modern invention.
Imagine if you’d never had pure sugar before and you bit into an herb that is 1,000 times sweeter than that – the experience would probably be unpleasant.
On top of that, there is the slight bitterness, which many people can’t tolerate.
Researchers have looked for ways to use this plant as a sweetener in the same vein as stevia, but they can’t figure out how to remove the undercurrent of bitterness and potential toxicity from the camphor.
Aztec Sweet Herb Propagation
There are lots of ways to make more Mexican lippia. From sowing seeds to layering, it’s an easy plant to propagate.
For most of us, starting seeds is the easiest way to get going because seeds can be found readily online. But you have lots more options if you have access to a plant.
Whichever method you choose, the plants should be placed about a foot apart, though they will spread and connect all on their own even if you put them further apart.
From Seed
Once you open that packet of seeds, don’t sneeze or get too close to a window. Don’t even blink too aggressively! The seeds are tiny and they can blow away in the slightest breeze.
Sprinkle the seeds on the surface of a seed-starting or potting medium and gently press them in place with dry hands. The seeds need light to germinate, so don’t bury them.
Set the seed tray on a heating mat. The soil should be kept above 70°F for the seeds to germinate.
The seeds should germinate in a few weeks, but this tends to be sporadic, so some might pop up in a few weeks and then others will emerge a few weeks after that. Thin the seedlings to about six inches apart.
From Cuttings
Most of us don’t have access to wild plants or friends who are already growing this herb, but if you do, you can take cuttings.
Look for a healthy stem with lots of robust leaves. Clip a six-inch section right above a leaf pair. Strip off all of the leaves except for the top two.
Insert the cut stem into a cup of water so about half is submerged. Keep the cutting in direct morning light and bright, indirect light for the rest of the day. Change the water every few days to curb the development of pathogens.
Once you see lots of roots developing, transplant as you would a seedling.
By Division
The multiple stems and extensive roots of this plant make it a breeze to divide.
You don’t need to dig up the entire thing. Just take a spade and stick it vertically into the center of the plant. Then, keep digging in a circle until you have the size of division you want.
It doesn’t matter how large or small you go. So long as there are some roots and a stem or two, a new plant will form.
Gently leverage the cutting out of the ground and transplant it in a new spot as you would a seedling.
By Layering
If you’ve ever layered mint, then you already know how this works. It’s my favorite propagation method and probably the easiest. This plant will root readily wherever a node makes contact with the soil.
Leaving it attached to the parent plant, take a stem and strip the leaves out of the center, creating a bare spot that is about four inches long.
Lay this on the ground, and bury an inch or two of the bare area. Weigh it down with some wire or a rock, if necessary.
After a month or so, remove the weight and gently dig a few inches under the area that you buried. Carefully lift it up. If you see roots, snip the branch away from the parent plant just beyond the newly developed roots, in between the main plant and the newly rooted area.
Transplant this new plant as you would a seedling.
Transplanting
Rarely, if you’re lucky or you live in the right area, you might come across seedlings for purchase. Or, you can start your own seedlings as described above. Other rooted propagules can be transplanted in this way as well.
To plant a seedling or rooted cutting, dig a hole that is twice as wide and the same depth as the root ball. If you have really hard, poorly draining soil, dig down a foot or so deep and wide.
Mix the removed soil with equal parts well-rotted compost. Fill the hole back in, leaving just enough room for the root ball.
Remove the new plant from its growing container, if necessary, and gently set it in the hole.
Firm the soil up around the roots and water well. If the soil settles, add a bit more.
How to Grow Aztec Sweet Herb
Planting is the hardest part of growing sweet Aztec herb. It tolerates a wide range of soils, with a pH anywhere between 6.0 and 8.0. It can tolerate some clay and some sand, though it needs good drainage.
If your soil doesn’t have good drainage, be sure to work in lots of well-rotted compost down at least a foot to help improve it. Or grow this plant in a rock garden, raised bed, or in containers.
You can use any standard potting mix. I’m a fan of FoxFarm’s Ocean Floor potting mix, which has all kinds of goodies like bat guano, forest humus, sphagnum moss, and fish meal.
Once you have it in the ground, allow the soil to nearly dry out completely before you water again.
If you stick your finger in the soil, it should be dry to the bottom of the root system before watering. When you water, make sure it’s deep and long, not a shallow watering.
That said, in the wild, this plant can be found growing in moist areas, so it can tolerate quite a bit of moisture without problems. Soggy roots, however, are a no-go.
The other thing this plant needs is full sun. Yes, it will survive in partial sun or even partial shade, but it will be straggly and will gradually creep towards the sun.
Other than that, you can just let it do its thing. No need to feed it or fuss with it.
In fact, this plant is so easy to grow that it might be too easy. You may want to consider growing yours in a container to keep it from spreading too far and wide.
Choosing a hanging basket or letting the stems trail down the sides of another type of container will make for a pretty display.
Or you can sink a container into the ground to limit the spread of the roots.
Remember, though: this plant can also put down roots wherever a node touches the ground.
Growing Tips
Plant in full sun.
Work in well-rotted compost to improve soil drainage.
Allow the soil to almost dry out completely between watering.
Maintenance
There’s nothing to do to maintain this plant except remove any dead, broken, or dying branches.
You can also give it a serious haircut if you want to manage its size or spread. If there’s a limit to how much you can cut back without harming the plant, I haven’t found it.
If you want to create bushier growth, pinch the plant regularly as it’s growing to encourage branching.
Where to Buy Aztec Sweet Herb
Aztec sweet herb is definitely one of those plants that needs a better public relations strategy.
It’s not difficult to grow and it has many uses, so it should be more widely available, in my humble opinion.
If you stumble on it at a nursery or gardening store, consider yourself lucky.
Honeyherb is more likely to become a pest itself by spreading too quickly rather than being attacked by insect pests. Likewise, diseases are rare, but fungal issues aren’t unheard of.
Let’s start with the one insect you’ll need to be on the lookout for…
Aphids
Most pests aren’t really a problem with lippia. But aphids must have a sweet tooth, because they’ll go for this plant if they find it in the garden. It doesn’t seem to be their favorite snack, but they won’t skip it altogether.
Even when they do come, fortunately they don’t do much damage. They’ll use their sucking mouthparts to suck the sap out of the leaves and stems, turning the leaves a speckled yellow.
If you spot aphids, they’re easy enough to control. Just spray the plant with a steady stream of water to knock them loose.
Do this once a week, and it’s likely that the aphids will leave to find greener pastures. If not, visit our guide to aphids for more information on controlling this common garden pest.
Disease
There are few plants out there that aren’t at least somewhat susceptible to fungal problems. With sweet Aztec herb, the main culprit is powdery mildew.
Caused by the fungus Podosphaera xanthii, this pathogen will attack most of the plants in the Verbenaceae family.
As the name suggests, it results in a powdery coating on the surface of the leaves and sometimes the stems.
If you see this, there are lots of options to treat it, from milk (yes, milk!) and potassium bicarbonate to copper or sulfur fungicides. Read more in our guide to powdery mildew.
Harvesting
Plants mature in about four months. At that point, you can harvest leaves whenever you want.
Pinch them off or use scissors to trim them. You can also take off entire stems, if you prefer.
Preserving
You can dry both the leaves and the flowers. Either hang them in small bunches or dry them in a dehydrator.
You can also freeze the leaves. Wash them, dry them, and place them on a cookie sheet in a single layer. Place it in the freezer.
Once they’re frozen solid, transfer them to a resealable container and keep this in the freezer.
Recipes and Cooking Ideas
Remember, less is more with this plant. However you opt to use it, don’t use more than a few leaves or flowers at a time.
Stick a leaf or flower – or two – in with your favorite tea for a little extra sweetness.
I’ve heard people love to chop up a few leaves and toss them into a green salad, but I don’t personally find that appealing.
The woody, menthol flavor of the camphor just doesn’t blend well with most salads and dressings in my opinion.
However, I think it’s amazing chopped and sprinkled on watermelon salad, berry pie, or ice cream.
Imagine how a little lippia would amp up this fruit salad yogurt parfait from our sister site, Foodal.
Honeyherb is like nothing else. Easy to grow, abundant, generally problem-free, and so incredibly sweet that it’s at least twice as sweet as stevia, this plant holds a unique spot in the garden.
The biggest challenge is that it grows so abundantly that you may find it hard to use it all up, especially since you can’t eat too much in one sitting. But that’s not really a bad problem to have, right?
How do you intend to use up your harvest? Give us the details in the comments section below.
Are you looking for some other herbs to add to your garden? If so, we have a few other guides that you might find useful. Here’s a small selection worth checking out:
Bear’s breech is a Handsome, hardy perennial known to the Greeks and Romans, who used the leaf form of Acanthus mollis to decorate the Corinthian column.
Species Grown Today
Acanthus caroli-alexandri, feet, white or rose flowers in July.
Acanthuslongifolius, up to 3-4 feet, purple flowers in June.
Acanthusmollis, the best-known species, 3-4 feet, with white, pink or mauve flowers and great bold leaves 2 feet long; vars. latifolius with wider leaves and white flowers, nigrum, with glossy, spineless leaves and lilac-white flowers.
Acanthusspinosus, 4 feet, very prickly deeply divided leaves, a handsome plant with purple, green and white flowers in July and August.
Where to plant and grow Bear’s Breech
Excellent as specimen plants where their form and character can be appreciated, acanthus stand erect without support. Tenacious because of their stout roots, they can withstand both drought and wind. The foliage of the young plants is less pointed and not as deeply cut as that of mature plants, and root cuttings taken from young plants will produce plants of less jagged leaf shape.
Grow them in well-drained loam, preferably, but not necessarily, in a sunny position. Propagate by seed sown in gentle heat in spring, or root cuttings in winter or spring, or division in autumn or spring.
Splendid for Spring and Early Summer Flowering – Beautiful Deciduous Shrub
(Deut’zia). A group of leaf-losing shrubs that are beautiful in bloom but are otherwise undistinguished. The flowers are produced from the side buds of the previous year’s growth. Many kinds are known, chiefly natives of China, Japan and the Himalayas. The majority are not perfectly hardy in the North against winter cold and should be given sheltered positions even in the climate of New York City and its environs. The Deutzias are closely related to the Mock Orange, or Philadelphus; they belong to the Saxifrage family, Saxifragaceae. The name Deutzia was given in honor of John van der Deutz, a patron of botany and at one time Sheriff of Amsterdam.
Propagation and Cultivation
All the Deutzias can be increased without trouble by means of cuttings, 3-4 in. long, of soft shoots, in May or early June, or of firmer wood in July; the cuttings are dibbled in a bed of sand or sandy peat and are placed in a propagating case in frame or greenhouse. Young plants should be set in good soil in a nursery border, the ends being pinched out of the shoots to induce a bushy habit of growth. When two years old, they should be large enough for planting in permanent places. The best results can only be expected by providing good loamy soil that is not excessively dry.
To obtain plants that will flower freely, they must be encouraged to form well-ripened wood each year. Assistance is given by removing some of the old wood as soon as the flowers are over; the old shoots should be cut back to those points from which vigorous young shoots are developing. Help may also be given by dressing the soil above the roots with well-rotted farmyard manure or an occasional application of a complete fertilizer.
A sunny position is desirable so that the shoots will be thoroughly ripened or matured. Deutzias may be planted in soil containing lime and in somewhat acid soils. The smaller-growing kinds are excellent for beds, and the larger ones are useful for groups or isolated specimens.
For the Greenhouse
As forcing plants for greenhouse decoration in spring some of the dwarf kinds are excellent, particularly the white-flowered D. gracilis. It is wise to grow plants, especially for this purpose and to begin forcing them when they are two years old. They should be planted out of doors as soon as they show deterioration.
White and Colored Flowers
In addition to the many wild kinds introduced from China and elsewhere, a number of very beautiful sorts have been raised by hybridizing and some of these varieties are popular in gardens. Most have been raised by intercrossing kinds with white flowers with others bearing purplish flowers. The following are very beautiful:
Deutzias candelabrum, 3-4 ft., flowers white;
Deutzias rosea, 3-4 ft., pinkish;
Deutzias rosea campanulata, 3-4 ft., white;
Deutzias rosea venusta, 4 ft., white;
Deutzias rosea carminea, 3-4 ft., purplish;
Deutzias rosea floribunda, 4 ft., pink;
Deutzias rosea grandiflora, 4 ft., purplish;
Deutzias Lemoinei, 4 ft., white.
Good Flowering Shrubs
Among the species from China, Japan and the Himalayas, of which there are at least thirty, the following are good shrubs, although not all may be in cultivation:
Deutzias compacta, 3 ft., white;
Deutzias discolor, 5-6 ft., white or pink, of this there are several forms;
Deutzias gracilis, 3-4 ft., white, one of the oldest and best-known kinds;
Deutzias corymbosa, 9 ft., white;
Deutzias longifolia, 5-6 ft., rosy purple, and var. Veitchii, rose;
Deutzias hypoglauca, 3-4 1/2 ft., white;
Deutzias mollis, 5-6 ft., white;
Deutzias parviflora, 5-6 ft., white;
Deutzias purpurascens, 5-6 ft., purple;
Deutzias hypoleuca, 5-6 ft., white;
Deutzias reflexa, 3-4 ft., white;
Deutzias scabra (crenata), 8-10 ft., white, tinged purple, the variety flore pleno has double flowers;
Deutzias setchuenensis, 5-6 ft., white, is a very beautiful shrub, but one of the most tender;
Deutzias Sieboldiana, 4-5 ft., has white flowers. The flowering time for these shrubs is from late May to early July.
Fine Plants for Spring Bloom in the Rock Garden and at the Front of the Flower Border
Hardy, perennial, more or less evergreen, low-growing plants which bear a profusion of bloom in early spring. They are invaluable in the rock garden and wall garden, as edging to flower borders, and as groundwork for taller plants in spring flower beds. Unfortunately, they are apt to be rather short-lived where hot summers prevail. Young plants seem better able to withstand adverse conditions than older ones; hence it is a good plan to raise some new plants each year. They may, in fact, be successfully treated as biennials. They are widely distributed in mountainous regions along the coast of southern Europe and Persia and belong to the Mustard family, Cruciferae. Aubrieta (previously spelled Aubrietia) is named after Claude Aubriet, a French painter of natural history subjects.
They need a sunny or only lightly shaded position and may be planted in fall or spring.
Ideal Wall Plants
Where summers are not excessively hot, Aubrietas are ideal plants for draping a garden wall; if planted on top of the wall or in crevices between the stones in well-drained, sandy, loamy soil, they spread and furnish a delightful show of bloom in spring.
When to Sow Seeds
Aubrietas can be increased in several ways. Seedlings are raised by sowing seeds in boxes (flats) of sandy, loamy soil, placed in a cold frame or slightly heated greenhouse in March—April. The seedlings are transplanted 2 in. apart in other boxes of similar soil and when well rooted are planted in nursery beds or in cold frames until large enough for their final positions. After blooming, old plants may be lifted and separated into rooted pieces for replanting.
How to Take Cuttings
Cuttings should be inserted as soon after flowering as possible in boxes of sandy soil placed in a frame kept closed. If a stock of old plants exists, the flowering shoots should be cut off when the blooms have faded and a mixture of leaf mold and sand worked in among the shoots: the latter will then form roots freely and, if removed and transplanted in autumn, will bloom the following spring.
In Europe, many beautiful named varieties of the Italian A. deltoidea are grown, but in America, it is more usual to raise plants from seeds. Seedlings vary considerably; good forms may be selected for vegetative propagation.
Named after Achilles, who is said to have used it as a treatment for his wounds (Compositae). Yarrow, milfoil. Hardy perennials, for the border or border rock garden.
Species grown today
Border Achilles filipendulina, large, plate-like heads of yellow flowers in summer; cultivars include ‘Gold Plate,’ 4-5 feet, ‘Flowers of Sulfur, 2 feet, soft sulfur yellow flowers and powdered leaves, and ‘Canary Bird,’ 1-2 feet.
Achilles millefolium, form of the native ‘Old Man’s Pepper’ ; cultivars are `Cerise Queen’, 2 feet, with rose-cerise flowers in July in a loose head, `Crimson Beauty, 24feet, and ‘Fire King, 2-2.5 feet (probably the best).
Achilles ptarmica (sneeze-wort), 2 feet, a white-flowered native, has several good cultivars of which ‘The Pearl’, 2feet, with small, tightly double flowers is the best.
Achilles sibirica, 1 feet, White flowers; `Perry’s White , 2-3 feet, is a fine variety.
Rock Garden Yarrows
Achilles ageratifolia, 4 inches, grey-white leaves and white flowers.
Achilleschrysocoma has mats of grey leaves and yellow flowers on 4-6-inch stems.
Achilles huteri, silvery tufts, short-stemmed white flowers.
Achilles King Edward‘ (syn. A. x lewsii)4 inches, grey-green mats, buff-yellow flowers all summer.
Achilles portae, 4 inches, grey leaves, white flowers.
Achilles prichardii 4 inches, grey mats, white flowers.
Achilles rupestris, 4-6 inches, foliage creeping, sprays of white flowers, May.
Achilles tomentosa. 9 inches. leaves grey, flowers golden yellow; needs protection from winter dampness; var. aurea flowers deeper yellow.
Where to plant and grow Yarrow
Achilleas flourish in almost any soil, provided it is not sour or waterlogged, and revel in the sunshine. They prefer lime but are quite tolerant of acid conditions. They have tiny or double daisy-like flowers collected in loose clusters or flat heads and bloom in summer. Foliage is fern-like, stems stiff and unbreakable and the fragrance somewhat pungent. Some varieties are recommended for winter arrangements of dried flowers, the best being A. filipendula, *Gold Plate’, and if the heads are stored in powdered alum until quite dry, they last well and retain all their color. Plant in autumn or spring or divide the plants at this time. Sow seed 1/2 inch deep in early summer. Border kinds should be lifted and divided every three or four years and the shoots cut down in winter.
Evergreen shrubs, 5-6 ft. high, with large, glossy, laurel-like green or variegated leaves and clusters of red fruits, each containing a single seed. The flowers are small and not showy, and male and female flowers are borne on different plants. They grow wild in Japan, China, and the Himalayas, and belong to the Dogwood family, Cornaceae. The word Aucuba is derived from the Japanese name of the shrub, aokiba. Aucubas will live outdoors in very sheltered locations near New York City but are generally hardy only where milder winters are the rule.
As Pot Plants
Aucubas are very satisfactory for cool rooms and sun porches and are good for growing in large pots or tubs as terrace plants. They thrive in any ordinary soil. From spring through fall they need plenty of water but should be kept drier in winter.
Will Thrive Beneath Trees
They thrive in any good garden soil, either in full sun or partial shade, and withstand a good deal of dryness at the roots; they are among the best evergreens for planting beneath the shade of trees. They will, in fact, thrive where many other plants and shrubs will perish, even beneath the shade and drip of large trees, provided the soil is not quite impoverished. Propagation can be effected by means of cuttings.
When to Take Cuttings
If terminal shoots, with two or three side branches, are inserted in a propagating case in a greenhouse—temperature 60 degrees during spring or summer—they form roots in a few weeks and may soon be planted out of doors. Similar cuttings will also form roots in August in a cold frame, or even out of doors.
Sowing Seeds and Layering
Seeds, cleansed of the outer fleshy pulp, may be sown as soon as ripe in autumn, in pots of sandy soil in a greenhouse—temperature 50-55 degrees. Fresh plants are sometimes raised from branches layered in spring, and large shrubs can be divided in September. As cuttings are in every way satisfactory, it is rarely necessary to resort to any other means of raising stock.
Very little pruning is required, for young plants grow naturally into shapely bushes; overgrown plants should be cut back in March or April. Planting may be done in spring or fall.
Green and Variegated Leaves
Aucuba japonica has green leaves, but the varieties with variegated leaves are chiefly grown. A male plant should be planted among every six female plants to ensure a good crop of berries. Two of the best varieties with variegated green and pale yellow leaves are variegata, the Gold-Dust Tree, and picturata (also called latimaculata and aureomaculata).
An old Latin name for violet (Violaceae). A genus of some 500 species of hardy perennials, mainly from northern temperate regions, including violas, pansies, and violets, of which there are many hybrids and strains.
Species grown today
Viola adunca, hooked spur violet, to 4 inches, violet or lavender with white eye, spring, North America.
Violaarvensis field pansy, 6 inches, cream, Europe including Britain, Asia, annual weed.
Viola cornuta, horned violet, 9-12 inches, flowers violet, June to August, Pyrenees; cultivars, including the `Violettas’, derived mainly from this species, are available in shades of yellow, plum-purple, rosy-lilac, blue and white with a yellow eye.
Violacucullata, 6 inches, white, veined lilac, April to June, North America.
Viola x florairensis, 4 inches, mauve and yellow, spring and summer. hybrid.
Viola. gracilis, 4-6 inches, deep violet, April to August, Balkans, Asia Minor vars. alba, white; ‘Black Knight’, purplish-black; lutea, golden-yellow; major, violet.
Viola hispida, Rouen pansy, to 8 inches, violet, summer, Europe. V. labradorica, 4-6 inches, porcelain-blue, summer, North America. V. odorata, see Violet.
Violapalmata, 6 inches, violet-purple, summer, North America.
Viola rupestris, Teesdale violet, to 2 inches, bluish-violet, Asia, Europe including Britain, North America.
Violasaxatilis, 4-8 inches, violet, summer, Europe, Asia Minor. V. x wittrockiana, see Pansy.
Where to plant and grow Violas
Violas do best in moist, well-drained soil and in light shade. Propagation of cultivars is by cuttings rooted in late summer in sandy soil in a cold, shaded frame. Species and strains are raised from seed sown in light soil in a cold, shaded frame in late summer.
A Southern European Plant That Is Popular in Garden and Greenhouse
Showy annual plants from southern Europe belonging to the Daisy family, Compositive. They have simple alternate leaves and branching stems 1 1/2-2 1/2 ft. high, bearing large heads of yellow, yellowish or orange-colored flowers which are in full beauty during the summer. Calendula is derived from calendae, the calends, the first day of the ancient Roman month-an allusion to the almost continuous flowering character of this plant. Calendulas do best in full sunshine and in rather dry soil. They are raised, from seeds sown out of doors in the spring or early autumn where the plants are to bloom the following year and are very easy to cultivate.
When to Sow Seeds
The seeds are sown in ordinary soil in a sunny position outdoors in spring to provide flowers during the summer and, in mild climates, in September to furnish plants that will bloom in winter and spring. They may be scattered broadcast or sown in rows 12-16 in. apart. The seeds are covered to a depth of 1/4 in., and the seedlings are thinned, as soon as they are an inch or so high, to about 12 in. apart. The seedlings may be transplanted if desired. Frequent hoeing between the plants is necessary to keep down weeds. The flowering season is prolonged if the flower heads are removed as soon as they begin to fade. The plants from the spring sowing begin to flower in July and continue to bloom all through the summer and far into the autumn except where very hot, humid summers prevail. Such conditions cause Calendulas to produce fewer and smaller flowers or to cease blooming entirely and perhaps even to die. Plants raised from seeds sown in a comparatively cool location in July or August and later transplanted to their flowering quarters will bloom in fall until killing frost. They are good for window boxes, are frequently used in summer plantings and make good pot plants for spring flowering in the greenhouse.
The chief kind is the Common Pot Marigold, Calendula officinalis, a native of southern Europe, 1 1/2-2 1/2 ft. high with light green leaves and hort stems branching from the base and bearing single or double, yellow flowers, 2-3 in. across, during the greater part of the year.
Blooms of Brilliant Coloring
C. officinalis has given rise to many varieties which bear much finer, larger, fully double, and more brilliantly colored flowers. Some of the finest strains offered by seedsmen are: Chrysantha, rich yellow, and Orange Chrysantha; Orange King, the earliest to bloom, double, orange; Lemon Queen, lemon yellow; Radio, with quill-like, orange petals; Golden Beam, golden counterpart of Radio; and Prince of Orange, deep orange with black center.
The blooms of the Art Shades strain range through buff, apricot and cream, and sometimes two or more colors are blended in one flower.
The Chrysanthemum-flowered Calendula has semidouble flowers of an attractive pale yellow shade. Other kinds are the Field Calendula, C. arvensis, a European plant, 2 ft. high, with single yellow flowers, and the Madeira Marigold, C. maderensis, with orange-colored flowers on erect stems 2 ft. high.
Greenhouse Culture
An easy way to enjoy a few flowers of Calendulas during early winter is to lift, before severe frost, some of the smaller plants from a midsummer-sowing that is flowering in the outdoor garden and plant them singly in rich soil in 6 or 7-in. pots. A succession of flowers will be borne if they grow in an airy environment with good light and where the temperature drops at night below 55, not seriously below 40, degrees.
To get the best results, however, seeds should be sown especially at any time from mid-July to mid-August. Flowers may be expected from this sowing from October through to February. Sow in a pot or flat indoors or in a protected area outdoors, such as a cold frame, where shade can be given until the seeds germinate. Any good garden loam which is well drained is satisfactory for germination provided continuous moisture is available. The seedlings should be transferred individually to 3-in. pots as soon as they are large enough to handle. The soil used for this potting should be loam (good topsoil) of a friable nature. Grow the plants in these pots, in semi-shade, until roots almost envelop the soil ball. Then, before they are tightly pot-bound, and suffer from lack of root room, they should be planted in their flowering quarters in well-drained garden loam enriched with thoroughly decayed organic matter and a light dusting of 5-10-5 or other fertilizer (see Fertilizers) high in phosphorous.
This final planting may be into pots that measure 6-8 in. in diameter but they are most satisfactory when they are planted in benches of soil in an airy greenhouse where the temperature is allowed to drop to 45-50 degrees at night during winter months. Space the plants 12-15 in. apart in the benches; the soil should be 5-6 in. deep.
A second sowing of Calendulas, made late in October, will provide flowers in the greenhouse February—April.
Ample ventilation of the greenhouse is all-important, particularly if the calendula growths are crowded. Without a free circulation of air, a leaf spot disease is likely to ruin the crop.
Thin the growths to 7 or 8 branches to each plant and remove excess side growths in order to get large flowers with long stems. The chrysantha varieties, which have deeply fringed petals and very double flowers, have been popular for many years. Campfire, Art Shades and Lemon Beauty are among the best. Careful watch must be kept for early signs of attack by pests and disease and prompt remedial measures taken.
Economic Uses
Besides being of great value as a cut flower, the flower heads are used, when dried, in cookery to flavor soups and stews, as well as for coloring butter. The florets were once used to heal wounds and prevent sickness. The flowers and shoots of Calendula officinalis, the common Calendula of gardens, have stimulant and diaphoretic properties. They were at one time popular as a country remedy for the treatment of ulcers, etc. An infusion was used for external application and the drug was also taken internally.
In many places in the United States columbines (Aquilegia ssp.) still grow wild. Highbrow hybrids dominate the marketplace, but even they seem to retain some of that wildness. While cleaning out an overgrown greenhouse once, I noticed columbines of indeterminate variety growing up through the cracks between the slate floor’s slabs. In my own garden they tend to self-seed, coming up everywhere but where I intend them to be. They are much like cats, domesticated to a point, but still inclined to go their own way.
Shakespeare celebrated columbines in his works, as did Chaucer. They have been cultivated in Europe for centuries, and in America ever since John Winthrop, an early Puritan leader and governor of the Massachusetts Bay colony, introduced a European variety, probably Aquilegia vulgaris, here in the 1630’s. A 1792 engraving of this species from a book on medicinal plants is in the archives of the English Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew. In an early case of cross-cultural exchange, the great English plantsman, John Tradescant, the younger, visited the young Virginia colony and sent seeds of native North American Aquilegia canadensis back to England in 1640. No matter where you live, if you have a cottage-style garden, you probably have some columbines in among the roses and hollyhocks.
The red and yellow Aquilegia canadensis that intrigued Tradescant is one of the most common native columbines. Despite its Canadian species name, it blithely ignores manmade boundaries and flourishes in much of the United States. With its nodding, complex flowers, it is characteristic of many plants in the genus. Individual blossoms are composed of several small, elongated trumpets or bells that flare at the tips. Aquilegia canadensis flowers also have the “spurs” that are common to many columbines. These spurs are actually modified petals that hold the nectar that makes the plants so attractive to hummingbirds and other pollinators. They also give the flowers an almost exotic look. A good friend of mine, who gardens a little but observes a lot, refers to columbines as “outer space flowers” for this reason.
The horticultural marketplace is full of columbines of all sorts. Almost all have attractive green leaves, with each leaf composed of three lobes. There are singles and doubles, tall and short varieties, cultivars with variegated foliage, and flowers that can be spurred or unspurred. In fact, you can find a columbine to match even the most exotic garden color scheme.
I recently ordered Aquilegia x hybrida ‘Tower Blue’, which is similar to older cultivars that sometimes go by the common name “Granny’s Bonnet. Tower Blue’ is a double variety, and it reminds me less of an old-fashioned bonnet than of the rather complicated hats worn by both Queen Elizabeth and the Queen Mother over the years. I am very hopeful that the effect of these small blue chapeaux will be charming rather than fussy in my garden.
One of the most floriferous assortments of hybrid columbines is the “Music Series. These plants form 18-20-inch mounds, produce an abundance of bi-colored blooms, and have the characteristic spurs. For a taller mix, try Aquilegia x hybrida ‘McKana Giants’. These rise to a statuesque 3-feet, and feature large, spurred single flowers in a range of colors. If you have a rock garden, or want columbines for the front of a border, Aquilegia flabellata, a short Japanese native with blue-green leaves works well. The ‘Nana’ hybrid has bi-colored flowers that are bluish-purple and white.
Anyone who has columbine in the garden probably also has leaf miners. These pests work their way through columbine foliage, leaving a characteristic meandering white trail behind them. Unless you are extremely finicky, there is nothing much to be done about leaf miners. Actually, the trails are not that unattractive, and the overall vigor of the plant is unaffected. You can, of course, pick off the blighted leaves if they bother you.
Columbine is particularly good for people who like a little randomness in the garden. They self-seed freely if left to their own devices. Since most of the varieties in cultivation are hybrids, you can never be exactly sure what will come up when the seeds germinate. Plant professionals have this same problem, since propagation of columbines is done almost exclusively from seed. If a particular color or form meets all your needs in a particular area of the garden, grow only that type. At least when nature takes its course, and the pollinators make their rounds, you have a chance of avoiding random variations.
From the Greek mimo, ape; the flowers were thought to look like a mask or monkey’s face (Scrophulariaceae). Monkeyflower, monkey musk, musk. A genus of hardy annual, half-hardy perennial, and hardy perennial plants grown for their showy flowers. They are found in many temperate parts of the world, particularly North America. Species grown today Where to plant and grow a […]
Organic gardens are as good for the earth as they are for its lucky inhabitants. The secret to growing a healthy, lush garden all begins with a single seed. This guide covers all the basics for starting seeds so that you can revel in your gardening wizardry this spring.
Are you planning to start a garden this year? Congratulations! It’s a big deal! Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a beginner, growing a garden is good for everybody. It feeds the soul and the soil and can even feed your family.
Starting a garden off right with healthy seeds sets the roots for how the garden will grow for the rest of the year. Sure, you can help manage sick plants and dried-out leaves, but starting seeds with good intentions and mad skills will make the rest of the year’s jobs a whole lot easier.
Some of you may think I’m crazy, but I believe that how you care for seedlings will be reflected in the plant that grows and the fruit that ripens. The garden is resting now. Perhaps even covered by a blanket of snow. Now, there is ample time to slow down, plan, and nurture the very best plants to grace your garden beds.
Let’s get this gardening season started with this guide on starting seeds.
Experienced gardeners can save the seeds from their plants to use the next year.
The 10 Steps for Starting Seeds
“I made this!” I gloat while serving up a dish made entirely of food that I grew in my garden. Well, “gloat” is probably not the right word. I prance around like the fantastical wizard I am, cheering about my mad skills in making real food from tiny seeds.
It took me months. I had some fatalities. But overall, it’s fairly simple to grow from seeds. And more importantly, it’s awesome. Here are some basics for how to start seeds at home.
Make sure to label your seeds so you know exactly what they all are. Trust me, you will forget.
1. Choose Your Seeds
Starting seeds in the spring (or even winter) is one of the best ways to save money. While you could buy a pack of snapdragons at the garden centre to fill your containers, why not start them from seed at a fraction of the price? You also get way more varieties when you go the seed route.
This list covers my favourite annual flowers to grow from seed, while this list covers some of my go-to perennial flowers. Keep in mind that starting perennials from seed is often more difficult and time-consuming, so it is better suited for those with a few gardening seasons under their belt.
Seed companies in your area should sell the right seeds for your climate but do make sure that you pick the right plants for your experience level. If you’re a seedling yourself when it comes to propagation, don’t bother starting watermelons in Northern Ontario. Many seed companies will also list a difficulty rating that will help to guide you.
You might even be able to find some seeds in a seed library.
2. Read the Packet
If you want the best possible start for your seeds, your best bet is to read the packet. Most seed packets will list everything you need to know to start the seeds and their special requirements, like how deep to plant the seed, how much light they need, how long they’ll take to germinate, soil temperatures required, etc.
I cover all the basics of reading a seed packet in this post if you want to ensure you’re buying the right seeds and those that will actually thrive in your garden.
3. Choose a Container
You can start seeds in just about anything you can find around the house that will create a mini-greenhouse, or you can buy all sorts of interesting setups to best suit your needs.
Greenhouse Kits
Many different greenhouse kits are available now. Most will have a plastic tray with a clear plastic greenhouse dome. Some come with a soilless mixture for starting seeds, like peat pellets that expand to a mini seed pot when soaked in water.
Others may have coconut fibre pots that you can transplant right along with your seedling. Others may even have a heat mat that gently warms soil to improve germination.
The beauty of these kits is that you can start a large number of seeds individually in one tray (up to 72) and many are made for small spaces like windowsills. The drawback is that the seedlings will need to be replanted, either in the garden or a larger pot, in a few weeks. Leaving seedlings in small pots with no nutrition will cause unwanted stress to the plants.
Seed Starting Trays
Garden retailers will sell many different types of professional-grade seed-starting trays, domes, and inserts with features like root training, moisture control, automatic watering, and grow lights. Certainly, many of these features have value in starting the year’s plants off on the right foot and can be used over and over.
Household Items
An inexpensive and creative way to start seeds is to use household items as seed containers. Lining a seed tray with pots made from toilet paper tubes, newspaper, or egg cartons will cost nothing
At times, your family may think you’ve gone mad, given how excited you will become when you get to take home the plastic cake dome from the party. But come on, that’ll make a really great greenhouse dome, right?
Search for biodegradable paper products you can plant right in the ground or food-safe plastic containers that you can use as mini-greenhouses for your containers if you are on a budget.
Paper egg cartons are one of my favourite inexpensive household items to use as a seed starting container.
4. Growing Medium
You can buy a pre-made seed starter soil, or you can make your own with a mix. I make my own mix using a peat-moss alternative, sterilized compost, perlite, and vermiculite. This mixture is light and holds moisture well, so it is wonderful for helping seeds germinate.
All growing mediums will need some time to absorb water, so add moisture and let it soak in for an hour before planting.
Be sure to use a sterile mix if you are starting seeds indoors. Soil or compost from the garden will bring in all sorts of critters, like soil gnats, which will drive you freakin’ crazy as you run around your propagation trays like a mad person swatting and squashing an endless supply of teeny tiny flies.
Seed starting mix needs to be sterile.
5. Water Your Seeds
Germination will be best in a moist environment for most seeds, so keeping the soil damp and a greenhouse dome on top will keep the right amount of humidity for optimal germination.
Keep the soil from drying out by checking it daily. Water gently, from the bottom where possible, so as to not damage the seedlings about to emerge.
When learning how to start seeds, having just the right amount of water is important. You never want the seeds to dry out, nor do you want the soil to be soggy.
Make sure to vent your container regularly to prevent fungal growth.
6. Get the Right Lighting
Seeds won’t need light until they emerge from the surface of the soil, but then they will need strong sunlight for most of the day to prevent them from becoming leggy (overly tall and spindly = weak).
You can supplement a lack of sunlight with fluorescent lighting, either by buying a set of grow lights made for seed starting or by making your own with fluorescent shop lights.
You don’t need fancy lights to help your plants grow. This was my DIY set-up!
7. Treat Damping Off
“Damping off” is a term for a fungal growth that looks like fuzzy hairs on the seedling stem. This fungal growth will kill the seedling, so it’s bad, really bad.
To prevent damping off, occasionally spray the greenhouse dome with a bottle of 3% food-grade hydrogen peroxide and vent it on a regular basis to regulate humidity.
I also recommend watering with my chamomile fungicide spray. Chamomile naturally prevents diseases such as damping off.
It’s almost impossible to get rid of damping off, so prevention is best.
8. Thin Your Seedlings
Generally, the seed instructions will suggest that you plant 2-3 seeds per pot and thin out all but the strongest. This seems to be the thing that some gardeners have the hardest time with.
If three strong tomato seedlings have popped up in one tiny peat pot, then the gardener rushes off to get tweezers to separate out the three wee plants and re-pots them all.
More inexperienced gardeners will damage each plant, giving none a strong chance at survival, so it’s best that you grab a clean pair of scissors, snip all but the strongest seedling in each pot and be done with it.
Choose the strongest seeding and snip any remaining seedlings in the same container.
9. Hardening Off
As the seedlings grow into plants and the date to plant outside gets near, it’s time to start hardening them off or toughening them for their natural environment.
I like to start by opening a window a few hours a day so they get a breeze. Then, start moving the trays outside, out of direct sunlight, for a few hours. Start at one hour and gradually increase to a full day outside.
By the time your plant date has arrived, you can safely transfer your tough little soldiers directly into the ground, with some delicious compost and a thorough watering, to brave the elements on their own.
Seedlings are used to indoor conditions, so make sure to gradually transition them to outside.
10. Set Your Expectations
Starting seeds is such an interesting and magical process, especially for children, so it’s the perfect activity to do as a family this coming spring. The months that you’ve spent germinating and raising seedlings will be a series of trial and error, so expect some loss.
Not every seed will germinate, not every seedling will survive being transplanted, and not every kind of plant will do well in your garden.
The gains will be clear when you have piles of leafy greens taking up every inch of your windowsills, bursting to get outside. Starting the plants off yourself ensures that you are in charge of the health of the plant and can control what goes into it. And the satisfaction you’ll feel from starting your own seeds is tremendous.
My kiddo loves starting seeds with me and planting them in the garden.
FAQ About Starting Seeds
Should you cover seeds with plastic?
Yes. This helps to keep the moisture in and increase temperatures. It essentially acts as a mini greenhouse.
Cover your seeds with a clear plastic container (I like salad boxes) right after you’ve planted and watered your plants. Every day, vent the dome and clean it with food-grade hydrogen peroxide to prevent damping off. Leave the dome on until the seedlings reach it.
Do seedlings need sunlight to survive?
Yes. Seeds don’t need sunlight until they’ve germinated (sprouted above the soil). Prior to this, the seed carries all the energy the plant will need to sprout. But once it has germinated, the seedling will need lots of sunlight to grow well. Otherwise, they get leggy and weak trying to reach for more sun.
Consider using a grow light if you can’t get enough sunlight in a windowsill for your seedlings.
Now therefore saith the Lord: Be converted to me with all your heart, in fasting, and in weeping, and in mourning. And rend your hearts, and not your garments, and turn to the Lord your God: for he is gracious and merciful, patient and rich in mercy, and ready to repent of the evil. Who knoweth but he will return, and forgive, and leave a blessing behind him, sacrifice and libation to the Lord your God? Blow the trumpet in Sion, sanctify a fast, call a solemn assembly,
Gather together the people, sanctify the church, assemble the ancients, gather together the little ones, and them that suck at the breasts: let the bridegroom go forth from his bed, and the bride out of her bride chamber. Between the porch and the altar the priests the Lord’s ministers shall weep, and shall say: Spare, O Lord, spare thy people: and give not thy inheritance to reproach, that the heathen should rule over them. Why should they say among the nations: Where is their God? The Lord hath been zealous for his land, and hath spared his people.
Joel 2:12-18
Today the season of Lent begins. May we turn to the Lord and remember the great things He has done for us.
Who needs red roses for Valentine’s Day when there’s this sweetheart of a succulent that packs oodles of charm in a tiny package? While it’s true that nothing beats the smell of fresh roses, this heart-shaped plant wins when it comes to gifts that last.
Please keep reading to learn more about the hoya heart.
Above: Single-leaf hoya hearts are starting to rival red roses when it comes to Valentine’s Day presents. The Bouqs sells their Desert Love duo in pink pots for $54.
Leading up to Valentine’s Day, single-leafed hoyas fly out of nurseries, florist shops, and garden centers. And you can see why: It’s petite, it’s heart-shaped, and its petals don’t fall off. Its cuteness seems tailor-made for the holiday. Just be advised that it won’t grow into one massive heart, nor will it sprout multiple hearts. That’s because the single leaf is rooted as a leaf cutting, not as a stem cutting with nodes. Still, that single leaf planted in well-draining soil can live for years. If you prefer a hoya heart plant that will grow multiple leaves, make sure to buy a rooted version that has at least two leaves.
Native to Southeast Asia, hoya heart is a tropical vining succulent with thick and waxy evergreen leaves. If conditions are right and you have a mature plant that’s a little root-bound (they like tight quarters), you will be gifted clusters of fragrant white blooms. But even without the flowers, the plant is attractive. I love houseplants that wind and weave, and especially when they trail down shelves, and some hoya heart stems might be as long as six feet or more.
Since hoya hearts come from tropical areas, they do appreciate some warmth and humidity. Either mist them every so often or place them on a steamy bathroom shelf. Another option if your home has dry air is to place your potted hoya on a bed of pebbles filled with water to add ambient moisture.
For bonus charm and uniqueness (and a bigger price tag), look for two unique varieties: Hoya kerrii ‘Variegata’ with yellow edges and Hoya kerrii ‘Splash’ with speckled leaves.
Today we’re visiting TJ Mrazik’s garden in Worcester, Pennsylvania.
My home garden has won four Blue Ribbon awards from my state horticultural society. It is a naturalistic, meadow-style garden with soft color palettes and hues made up predominately of cool- and warm-season ornamental grasses intermingled with wildflowers. It supports native pollinators and wildlife. Always changing and maturing, the garden is interesting all four season of the year.
The photos are from late summer, fall, and early winter. They demonstrate the blending of soft palette, subtle hues, texture, and movement of a naturalistic, meadow-style garden. It is almost like an impressionistic painting.
Matured little bluestem (Schizachyriumscoparium, Zones 3–9), Korean feather reed grass (Calamagrostis brachytricha, Zones 4–9), morning light miscanthus (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’, Zones 4–9), and tufted hair grass (Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’, Zones 4–8) comprise a lovely winter show.
Pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergiacapillaris, Zones 6–9), little bluestem, Amsonia (Zones 5–8), and ‘Goldtau’ tufted hair grass put on a fall show of evolving colors.
Panicles of Korean feather reed grass stand tall amid a show of pink muhly grass and little bluestem.
Late summer: Amsoniahubrichtii, ‘Goldtau’ tufted hair grass, Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’ (Zones 4–10), and little bluestem
Late fall: confluence of pink muhly grass, little bluestem, and ‘Goldtau’ tufted hair grass
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
TO SAY I WAS surprised would be understating it. A lot. When I got the call from the Scott Arboretum at Swarthmore College in Pennsylvania recently that I’d been named as the 2024 recipient of their prestigious Scott Medal, I was completely caught off guard.
