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  • How to Select the Best Houseplant Potting Soil and Containers

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    For instance, Organix makes a product called RePeet, which is made from waste from the cattle industry.

    Fox Farm has earned a reputation for manufacturing products that contain earth-friendly ingredients, though some might have a large carbon footprint due to the amount of travel required to bring products in from across the globe.

    If I could only recommend one variety of premixed potting soil, without question, it would be their Ocean Forest mix.

    Ocean Forest Potting Soil Mix

    It is OMRI listed and contains all the perfect ingredients to make plants happy, plus they’re more sustainable than a lot of other potting mix ingredients out there. 

    If you’d like to try it out for yourself, pick up a 12-quart bag at Amazon.

    For sustainable fertilizer, you can combine blood meal (to supply nitrogen), bone meal (for phosphorus), and kelp meal (to add potassium).

    Don’t feel frustrated with trying to find the perfect sustainable, organic potting mix. Life is about compromises, so just pick the best one you can.

    Choosing a Potting Mix

    Before we jump into choosing a commercial potting mix, I want to point out that premixed potting mediums are a relatively recent development.

    A close up of the ingredients of homemade houseplant soil on a wooden surface.A close up of the ingredients of homemade houseplant soil on a wooden surface.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    People have been creating their own mediums for centuries and you should feel empowered to do the same if it suits your situation.

    That said, there’s nothing wrong with picking up a potting mix online or from the store. Many of them are carefully formulated to make your plants absolutely thrive.

    The potting mix you choose will need to be selected based on the plant it will be supporting.

    Remember, there is no one-size-fits-all potting mix. However, there are lots of excellent options out there that will suit a wide variety of plants.

    Also, don’t be afraid to think of a commercial potting mix as a starting point.

    Use it as a base and then amend heavily it to make it perfect for your plant. Here are the most common types that you’ll see:

    Cactus Mix

    Cactus mix is made to be extremely well-draining and not very water-retentive.

    It won’t have much, if any, organic matter. Ingredients usually include sand, lava rock, perlite, pumice, grit, and gravel. It’s best for plants that need little water and have shallow roots.

    Cactus potting soils are ideal for succulents, cacti, and even Mediterranean herbs like oregano, sage, and thyme. It’s also an excellent choice for starting most seeds.

    If you work in some compost and peat (or a peat alternative), it’s also good for many epiphytes like hoyas and peperomias.

    A close up square image of the packaging of Tank's-Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix isolated on a white background.A close up square image of the packaging of Tank's-Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix isolated on a white background.

    Tank’s-Pro Cactus & Succulent Mix

    Grab a one-and-a-half-cubic-foot bag of Tank’s Pro Cactus & Succulent mix at Arbico Organics.

    Orchid Mix

    Orchid mixes are made to allow tons of air to circulate around the roots of your plant.

    They usually include lots of chunky materials such as bark, moss, and coco coir. In addition to using it to pot orchids, it’s an excellent medium for growing most types of epiphytes.

    A close up vertical image of a bag of Miracle-Gro Orchid Potting Mix isolated on a white background.A close up vertical image of a bag of Miracle-Gro Orchid Potting Mix isolated on a white background.

    Miracle-Gro Orchid Potting Mix

    Walmart carries eight-quart bags of Miracle-Gro Orchid Potting Mix.

    Standard Mix

    Standard potting mixes are made to accommodate most houseplants. They usually combine compost, perlite, vermiculite, and moss.

    These mixes work for just about any type of plant except cacti and succulents. However, I almost always amend mine a little to suit the specific plant that I’m working with.

    A close up vertical image of a small pot tipped on its side with freshly mixed potting medium spilling out on to a wooden surface.A close up vertical image of a small pot tipped on its side with freshly mixed potting medium spilling out on to a wooden surface.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Every species has unique needs, so you’ll need to do some research to determine exactly what will suit yours the best.

    But broadly, I like to mix in lots of bark and rice hulls, along with some worm castings, for any variety of epiphyte except orchids.

    That means pothos, hoyas, monsteras, ficus species, and philodendrons. Typically, I mix two parts bark, two parts potting soil, and one part rice hulls with just a dash of worm castings.

    For ferns, calatheas, and alocasias, I add two parts compost to two parts potting soil, a dash of worm castings, and one part moss.

    I just use the stuff that’s growing on the trees in my yard to keep it ultra-sustainable, but you can buy non-peat moss as well.

    The Right Container Material

    I wish there was just one perfect container material out there and we could all just use that for our houseplants and not have to worry about anything else, but that’s not the case.

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • Join us in the Netherlands for a Garden Tour Unlike Any Other – Fine Gardening

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    Join us on an immersive journey through the Netherlands’ most innovative gardens, from trailblazing historic spaces by renowned designers to inspiring, sustainable spaces of the modern day. Cruise historic canals past famous nurseries, enjoy intimate tours with celebrated Dutch designers, and experience how this nation’s rich horticultural heritage transforms water, space, and native flora into Europe’s most inspiring gardens.


    Tour Dates

    September 4 – September 12, 2026

    Tour Prices

    $7,795 (USD) per person, double occupancy

    $8,995 (USD) per person, single occupancy

    Tour Includes

    • All 4-star hotel accommodations
    • 8 breakfasts, 6 lunches, and 5 dinners, including tips
    • Admission to all gardens, including tips
    • Comfortable coach transport
    • Friendly and knowledgeable local Dutch tour coordinator
    • Garden expertise of Annie Guilfoyle and Fine Gardening’s Danielle Sherry and Carol Collins. See host bios.

    ACTIVITY LEVEL

    Easy: Expect to walk 10,000 steps per day with occasional level changes.

    Learn more and register now!

     

    Itinerary

    DAY 1: FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 4 – Arrival in the Netherlands

    Tour members independently arrange travel to Amsterdam and transfer on their own to the DoubleTree Amsterdam Centraal Station, where a room is booked for them (included in the tour price). At 5:30 p.m. we’ll gather for a welcome lecture, “What Makes a Great Garden,” by our host, British garden designer and educator Annie Guilfoyle, then have dinner in the hotel restaurant (included in the tour price).

    DAY 2: SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 5 – Singer Laren Museum and Theetuin Weesp

    After breakfast at the hotel (included), we’ll board our coach for the day. Our first stop will be the Sculpture Garden at the Singer Laren Museum, which is devoted to presenting and preserving the collection of the American artist William Henry Singer and his wife, Anna. The garden was designed by Piet Oudolf, considered the leading figure in the “New Perennial” movement. Oudolf uses herbaceous perennials and grasses in his designs for their structure, movement, and color. The garden opened in 2018 and features contemporary Dutch sculptures that highlight the relationship between culture and nature.

    Nestled on a historic site, the Weesp Tea Garden is a quietly romantic model garden that has been a testing ground for plant combinations since the early 1980s. Jacqueline van der Kloet, together with Niek Roozen and Stan Gall, shaped the garden’s simple, clear frameworks. The designers then layered in seasonal succession plantings, relying on bulbs, perennials, shrubs, and a few specimen trees to give this unique spot its drama. Well-loved by locals, the teahouse remains the centerpiece of the property, while the surrounding centuries-old trees create the cool, green garden rooms that allow the beds and borders to shine. As you wander and photograph the late-season peak of this garden, you’ll come to realize why the history and planting approach make this stop an archetype of Dutch design. Lunch will be catered in the gardens (included).

    At the end of our day we’ll return to our hotel and gather for dinner (included). After dinner be sure to take the elevator to the rooftop bar and take in the canal view.

    DAY 3: SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 6 – An exploration of Carolien Barkman’s work

    After breakfast at the hotel (included), we’ll meet Carolien Barkman, an innovative designer and master of transforming compact spaces into beautiful gardens. We’ll be visiting a series of her gardens today, all showcasing her knack for maximizing space through strong structure, thoughtful materials, and layered, textural plantings. From a newly laid garden around a modern wooden house to an intimate green room with a planted living-room wall, Carolien’s work balances utility with subtle surprises—every spot and design choice is considered for both daily life and seasonal excitement. She often frames garden beds as living architecture: restrained hardscape lines provide the scaffolding while exuberant, well-timed perennials and shrubs supply movement and color. Spending a full day with her will reveal how she uses scale to make small or awkward sites feel purposeful and generous.

    We’ll stop at a local restaurant for lunch together (included) and at the end of the day will have time to explore the area around our hotel to enjoy dinner on our own.

    DAY 4: MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 7 – Jelle Grintjes Garden, Marieke Nolsen Garden, Hans and Lucien Gieszen Garden

    Eat breakfast at your leisure this morning (included). Our first stop of the day is the private garden of designer Jelle Grintjes. This 5,000-square-meter garden is composed of almost 20,000 perennial plants and grasses, as well as more than 50,000 flower bulbs, all only a few years old. He employs airy and see-through perennials and grasses judiciously in his plantings, and pays careful attention to how each variety behaves, while acknowledging that you can never totally predict what a plant will do from year to year. Jelle will introduce us to his design philosophy and share his extensive plant knowledge and recommendations.

    After lunch together (included), we’ll make a stop at the garden of Marieke Nolsen, a flower stylist, gardener, and lecturer extraordinaire whose lifelong passion is flowers. She says, “My garden is a bouquet.” The dahlia is the center of attention in this garden, with countless varieties, colors, and textures creating a spectacular explosion of color in beds where the supports are made of pine and birch. The gardens close to the house are mostly yellow and white, the colors of the estate on which the property sits, and include a large espaliered lime and pollarded apple trees.

    Our final garden visit will be the garden of Hans and Lucien Gieszen, near the village Renswoude. A self-taught garden designer, Hans has learned to use the shape, structure, and seasonal changes of plants to create stunning gardens. He began creating his garden in 2012, beginning with perennials that could be easily grown and maintained sustainably. Lucien is the hardscaping expert in the family and has laid many of the stone walls and pathways herself.

    At the end of the day we’ll return to the hotel, where we’ll have dinner together (included).

    DAY 5: TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 8 – Superbloom Arnhem with Arjan Boekel, free time in Amsterdam

    Take your breakfast at the hotel (included), then we’ll travel to designer Arjan Boekel’s Superbloom project in Arnhem. It’s a bold, urban experiment that replaced municipal paving and a dry lawn with a long, richly flowering meadow. Arjan will be on-hand to explain how the project’s aim was to regenerate the local ecology and provide expansive views of the beautiful city. Conceived with LOLA Landscape Architects and installed by Boekel (Coöperatie De Bloeimeesters), the plan mixes native and ornamental species, an array of self-sowers, and short- and long-lived plants to create what has been described as a “meadow on steroids.” Sited on top of a layer of poor, sandy soil, the garden embraces tough growing conditions so the planting can evolve as a living system rather than a fixed palette. The resulting garden reads as both exuberant spectacle and careful ecological design—an ideal case study for gardeners interested in large-scale, low-input planting strategies.

    After this garden visit, we’ll return to the hotel, where we can explore the area all afternoon and evening on our own. Visit the nearby Anne Frank House or the Rijksmuseum. Walk to the picturesque 9 Streets district, wandering in and out of the many shops or cafes along the canals. Or book an evening dinner cruise to see the city from the water.

    DAY 6: WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9 – Mien Ruys Garden, The Garden at Fortmond

    After breakfast (included), we’ll check out of our Amsterdam hotel and make our way to Dedemsvaart to explore a sequence of 30 inspirational horticultural displays at Mien Ruys Gardens. A groundbreaking mid-20th-century female landscape architect, Mien Ruys’s work has inspired generations of designers not only in the Netherlands, but also across the globe. Nine of the gardens have been given national monument status and offer a chronological overview of 20th-century garden architecture. We’ll have an opportunity to explore the Sunken Garden, the Water Garden, the Wilderness Garden, and many others. We can discuss what we’ve seen over lunch together here (included).

    Next, we’ll travel to The Garden at Fortmond in Olst. This marvelous home and garden overlooks the IJssel Valley, with the hills of the Veluwe in the distance. From the terrace, you have a panoramic view of the property, including bird groves with natural undergrowth, the stunning flower meadow, as well as De Duursche Waarden nature reserve, which sits adjacent to the garden.

    This afternoon we’ll travel to Rotterdam, check into The DoubleTree Rotterdam Centre, and dine together (included).

    DAY 7: THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 10 – Tom de Witte Garden, In Goede Aarde Garden

    Begin with breakfast at the hotel (included). Our first visit today is with plantsman and designer Tom de Witte, who brings a naturalistic sensibility to his gardens, informed by formal training in Boskoop and a long-standing working relationship with Piet Oudolf. Tom’s unique style results in plantings that read as both natural and meticulously composed. His home garden is an education in texture, rhythm, and seasonal structure. Some areas of the property are more prairie-like, but turn a corner and you’ll find a more refined expanse. The deeply personal space reflects Tom’s influences from his garden travels, from Tasmanian rainforests to Dutch polder verges. His practice emphasizes durable plant communities and multiple viewpoints, so this garden is as much about how you move through it as what’s planted where. On site, this master plantsman will share his planting logic, maintenance choices, and the design decisions that make plant-forward gardens both resilient and deeply expressive.

    After we dine together for lunch (included), we’ll visit nearby nursery In Goede Aarde. This small-scale, charming, and impeccably maintained nursery’s display gardens include traditional regional windbreaks, perfectly clipped privet hedges, and brick pathways set against the expansive Zeeland landscape. Here you’ll find a curated selection of perennials and grasses, ranging from the familiar to the truly rare. And in the owners’ private garden borders, perennials and grasses are woven into inspiring combinations.

    This evening, you’ll have time to explore Rotterdam’s dining options on your own. While you are out, you may wish to visit Leuvehoofd, a nearby park whose plantings were designed by Piet Oudolf.

    DAY 8: FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11 – Waterside Garden, canal tour at Boskoop

    We’ll start our day with breakfast (included) before checking out of the hotel. Then we’ll meet Olga and Arno Rijnbeek at their Waterside Garden and wander among gardens they’ve created in a variety of styles: woodland, prairie, English cottage, Japanese, Mediterranean, vegetable, and even drought tolerant. They installed these display gardens at their perennial nursery in 2022, and there’s something to enjoy here year-round because of the variety of bulbs and perennials, plus a number of unusual trees and shrubs.

    After our tour of the Rijnbeeks’ garden, we’ll board a small canal boat from their personal dock and begin our next adventure. A boat tour along the nurseries in Boskoop is undoubtedly the best way to see the horticultural center of the Netherlands. From our boat, you can enjoy the views over countless nurseries of shrubs, trees, and perennials, while learning about the historical district and hearing stories about this fascinating botanical world. We’ll enjoy lunch together during this excursion (included).

    Next, we’ll travel back to Amsterdam, check into the Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol and reflect on our week together at a farewell dinner (included).

    DAY 9: SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 12 – Farewell

    Breakfast will be available at the hotel (included) before you check out and depart the Netherlands or continue the adventure on your own. Note that the Hilton is connected to both the train station and the airport, making travel to your next destination simple.

     

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  • Chinese Yam Waffles | The Survival Gardener

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    I never imagined this:

    I have been growing Chinese yams in large pots. I love the yam berries. The tubers are the real prize. I peel and chop them. The flesh is slimy. I puree the chopped yam in the food processor. I pour the puree into an oiled waffle maker. There is no need to add eggs or flour. The yams make delicious waffles! I can freeze the waffles easily. It’s a great crop.

    That comment was on my in-depth yam-growing video:

    I haven’t eaten the Chinese yam roots even though we’ve grown them for years.

    The complete comment reads:

    I’ve seen the gutter method but haven’t tried it. We just eat the bulbils. I may have to plant more so we can eat the tubers.

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    David The Good

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  • Why towel warmers are more than just a luxury throw-in – Growing Family

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    When you think about bathroom comfort and luxury, it’s easy to imagine plush towels, warm baths, and inviting spaces. However, there’s one often-overlooked feature that can elevate your bathing experience from routine to rejuvenating: the towel warmer.

    More than just a novel accessory, towel warmers serve functional and aesthetic purposes that extend well beyond the bathroom.

    The practical benefits of towel warmers

    towel warmer in a bathroom

    1. Year-round comfort

    Imagine stepping out of a chilly shower, only to reach for a damp, cold towel. The immediate reaction is discomfort, a stark contrast to the relaxing experience you’re trying to cultivate. Towel warmers provide immediate warmth, enhancing your bathing experience, especially in colder months. They ensure that your towels are always cosy, ready to envelop you as you step out of the bath or shower.

    Towel warming systems, like those featured on Heat and Plumb, can be a game-changer for the whole family. When it comes to improving comfort with towel warming systems, a key benefit is that they lay the groundwork for a serene living space that prioritises well-being.

    2. Improved hygiene

    Comfort isn’t merely about luxury; there are also hygiene benefits afforded by towel warmers.

    Wet towels left hanging can become breeding grounds for bacteria and mildew. The heat from a towel warmer dries the fabric rapidly, reducing moisture accumulation that can lead to unpleasant odours and potential health issues.

    3. Space-saving design

    If you live in a compact flat or a smaller home, you’ll know that every square inch counts. This is where towel warmers shine. They can double as functional decor while freeing up precious wall space.

    Options range from sleek heated rails to elegantly designed radiators that integrate seamlessly with your bathroom’s style. Not only do they fulfil practical needs, but they can also enhance the room’s aesthetic appeal, giving it a touch of sophistication.

    Emotional and lifestyle benefits

    heated towel rail in a bathroomheated towel rail in a bathroom

    1. Enhanced relaxation

    We’ve all experienced the hustle and bustle of daily life: work schedules, family responsibilities, and the demands of modern living can often lead to an overwhelming sense of chaos. Towel warmers can create a little oasis of comfort within this hectic life. The luxury of a warm towel can evoke feelings of relaxation and indulgence, serving as a small reward after a long day.

    Whether it’s part of your morning routine to get you started, or a calming ritual before bed, warming up your towel can enhance those moments of self-care. It not only signifies a break from the chaos, but allows for personal reflection and time out.

    2. Family-focused benefits

    There are practical advantages for families too. Bathing children can be an exercise in patience, but knowing they’ll wrap up in a warm towel can make the process more enjoyable for everyone involved. This small touch can transform a mundane chore into a moment of joy and comfort for your little ones, enhancing family bonding and turning bedtime routines into soothing rituals.

    Energy efficiency and sustainability

    You might be thinking that a towel warmer sounds extravagant or wasteful in terms of energy consumption. However, many modern towel warmers are designed with energy efficiency in mind. These systems often use lower wattage while maintaining effective performance, particularly the electric models which utilise timers and zoning functions to heat only during specific hours.

    By optimising energy consumption, you not only contribute to a more sustainable home but can also lower your utility bills.

    Investing in everyday luxury

    In a world where luxury often comes with a hefty price tag, towel warmers provide an affordable indulgence that enhances your daily routine without breaking the bank. They combine practicality with comfort and hygiene, making them invaluable in any home.

    Whether you’re planning your next home improvement project, or simply thinking about ways to enhance your daily comforts, don’t dismiss the humble towel warmer. It’s a simple addition that fosters a luxurious, inviting environment and provides practical and emotional benefits.

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    Catherine

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  • How growing fruit at home encourages healthier eating habits – Growing Family

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    Encouraging children to eat more fruit can sometimes feel like an uphill battle. Even when fruit is readily available, it’s not always the first thing they reach for, especially when snacks and convenience foods are competing for attention.

    One approach that many families find surprisingly effective is growing fruit at home. It doesn’t require a large garden or a big lifestyle change, but it can have a meaningful impact on how children view food, where it comes from, and how willing they are to eat it.

    Growing fruit can help turn healthy eating from something we talk about into something children experience for themselves.

    small child eating a peach

    Making fruit part of everyday life

    When fruit grows in the garden, on a patio, or even in pots by the door, it becomes part of daily life rather than something that appears briefly in the fruit bowl.

    Children see it change over time. They notice flowers turning into fruit, fruit ripening, and the moment it is ready to pick. This visibility creates familiarity, and familiarity often leads to acceptance.

    Instead of being told that fruit is good for them, children see it as something they helped grow, which makes them far more likely to eat it without resistance.

    Ownership changes attitudes to food

    One of the most powerful shifts that happens when children grow fruit is the sense of ownership it creates.

    When a child has helped water a plant, watched it grow, and waited for fruit to appear, they feel proud of the result. That pride often carries through to eating it.

    Children are far more willing to try food they feel connected to. Fruit that they have grown themselves feels special rather than ordinary, and that emotional connection can change long-term attitudes towards healthy choices.

    Even children who are usually hesitant about fruit may surprise you when it comes from their own garden.

    Encouraging curiosity instead of pressure

    Growing fruit encourages curiosity rather than pressure around food.

    Instead of asking children to eat something because it’s healthy, you can talk about what is growing, how it tastes, and what it might be used for. This approach removes the power struggle that sometimes surrounds mealtimes.

    Children naturally want to taste something they have watched grow. That curiosity is often enough to encourage them to try fruit they might otherwise ignore.

    This gentle exposure helps build positive associations with healthy foods, without making them feel like a requirement or a rule.

    a child holding a basket of fruita child holding a basket of fruit

    A wider variety of fruit

    Another benefit of growing fruit at home is variety.

    Supermarket fruit tends to be limited to what travels well and keeps for longer. Growing fruit opens up opportunities to try different flavours, textures, and varieties that children may not have encountered before.

    Starting with easy-to-grow fruit plants allows you to experiment with options that suit your space and lifestyle. Strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, and fruit trees grown in containers are all accessible ways to introduce variety.

    Exposure to different fruits early on helps children develop a broader palate, which can support healthier eating habits over time.

    Healthy snacks within reach

    One of the simplest ways growing fruit encourages healthier eating is convenience.

    When fruit is growing outside, it becomes an easy snack option. Children can pick a strawberry, a handful of berries, or fruit from a low branch without preparation or packaging.

    This ease matters. Children often choose snacks based on what’s quickest and most accessible. Growing your own fruit removes barriers and makes healthy options feel effortless. It also encourages grazing on fresh produce rather than reaching for processed snacks.

    Connecting food with seasons

    Growing fruit teaches children that food is seasonal.

    They learn that strawberries arrive in summer, apples in autumn, and that not everything is available all year round. This understanding helps set realistic expectations and builds respect for natural cycles.

    Children who understand seasonality often become more patient and more appreciative of food when it’s available. They also learn that healthy eating doesn’t have to look the same all year.

    This awareness supports balanced eating habits and reduces reliance on out-of-season or heavily processed options.

    family gardening in raised bedsfamily gardening in raised beds

    Building routines around healthy choices

    Caring for fruit plants introduces gentle routines into family life.

    Watering, checking for ripeness, and harvesting become shared activities that reinforce consistency and responsibility. These routines create natural opportunities to talk about food, nutrition, and choices without formal lessons or lectures.

    When children are involved in these processes, healthy eating becomes part of their normal routine rather than something that needs constant encouragement.

    Positive mealtime conversations

    Growing fruit often leads to better conversations around meals.

    Children may ask questions about how the fruit grew, what else it can be used for, or why it tastes different from shop-bought versions. These conversations can build understanding and interest rather than resistance.

    When meals include fruit that children have grown themselves, there’s often a sense of pride and excitement that carries through to the table. This positive atmosphere supports healthier eating in a way that feels natural rather than enforced.

    Long-term habits that last

    Perhaps the most valuable impact of growing fruit at home is the long-term influence it can have.

    Children who grow food are more likely to:

    • Try new fruits and vegetables
    • Eat fruit more regularly
    • Understand where food comes from
    • Value fresh, whole foods

    These habits often continue into adulthood, shaping healthier choices later in life.

    Growing fruit isn’t about perfection or eliminating treats. It’s about building a balanced relationship with food that feels positive and achievable.

    A simple step with lasting benefits

    You don’t need a large garden or extensive knowledge to see the benefits of growing fruit at home. Even a small number of plants can make a difference.

    By involving children, creating curiosity, and making healthy options accessible, growing fruit supports better eating habits in a way that feels enjoyable rather than forced.

    Over time, those small moments of picking, tasting, and sharing fruit help build a healthier relationship with food for the whole family.

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    Catherine

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  • Which is the best way to dry your clothes? – Growing Family

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    For any busy family in the UK, laundry feels like a never-ending task. Between school uniforms, gym clothes, and weekend bedding, finding the most efficient way to dry clothes is a constant challenge, especially when the weather refuses to cooperate. That’s why we’re always looking for solutions that make life easier, while also helping us take care of the planet and our household budget.

    One of the best ways to dry your clothes is using a clothes airer. Compared to the high energy consumption and environmental impact of tumble dryers, natural drying – both indoors and outdoors – offers many advantages. The Vileda clothes airer collection, a brand by Freudenberg, is known for innovative laundry solutions that optimise space, reduce wrinkles, and, above all, are environmentally friendly.

    clothes drying on a rack outdoors

    Natural drying: a relief for the planet and your wallet

    The simple act of hanging clothes to dry naturally has an immediate positive impact. Compared to tumble dryers, using a clothes airer is considerably cheaper and can drastically reduce your household’s carbon footprint. Air drying is also far gentler on fabrics, avoiding the friction and extreme heat that can shorten the lifespan of your favourite garments.

    With this in mind, Vileda has designed a range of products that adapt individually to the amount of laundry you need to dry, proving that indoor drying can be just as effective as outdoor drying, even in homes with limited space.

    Solutions for large family laundry loads

    If you have a large family, you know that one washing machine load is never enough. In these cases, you need capacity and flexibility without compromising stability, like the following models:

    Vileda Infinity Flex Ultimate – extendable clothes airer

    This model is ideal for all drying needs, as it easily extends up to 2 metres in length. Thanks to its telescopic central rack, it’s perfect for hanging sheets and large towels. With a total drying length of 30 metres, it can accommodate up to 2 or 3 laundry loads at the same time.

    Vileda Infinity Flex – extendable XXL clothes airer with wings

    Similar to the previous model, but with an XXL stability design. It offers 30 metres of drying space, and its extra-high wings allow you to hang long garments without them touching the floor. Its thick tubes are designed to prevent wire marks and wrinkles, speeding up ironing afterwards. It also comes with a 5-year guarantee.

    Style and stability for everyday use

    For those looking for a balance between modern aesthetics and functionality, Vileda has updated its most robust models with elegant finishes, such as:

    Vileda King Ultimate Indoor Clothes Airer

    With 20 metres of drying space, the Vileda King Ultimate Indoor Clothes Airer provides enough room for two laundry loads. Its extra-thick XXL lines help reduce wire marks, saving you time at the ironing board. Its matte black finish makes it a modern accessory that fits perfectly into any contemporary home.

    Ultimate Universal Indoor Airer

    This is the perfect ally for everyday use. It offers 18 metres of drying space and has an elegant black finish. What really stands out is its ease of use: its foldable legs include a safety lock that prevents accidental folding while loaded with clothes. It’s also extremely compact when stored.

    a person hanging laundry on a clothes airera person hanging laundry on a clothes airer

    The power of vertical space

    Living in a flat or a small house is no barrier to drying clothes efficiently. Vileda offers models that make the most of vertical space, which we often leave unused, such as:

    Vileda Mixer 3 Ultimate Indoor Tower Airer 

    This tower-style model transforms laundry routines in small spaces by optimising vertical space. Tall rather than wide, it measures just 71cm x 71cm while offering over 30 metres of drying space. Its six independent racks adapt to your needs, allowing you to hang everything from socks to longer garments.

    Vileda Sprint 3 Tier Clothes Airer (15m and 20m)

    Vileda Sprint models are the best sellers in the UK, and for good reason: their simplicity and durability. Available in 15 metre and 20 metre versions, these 3-tier steel airers include additional hooks for hangers, maximising every centimetre of available air space.

    2-in-1 versatility and quick solutions

    Sometimes you need a hybrid solution or ultra-fast drying for a garment you want to wear within a couple of hours. For that, there are:

    Vileda Premium 2 in 1 Indoor Clothes Airer

    This clever model features a detachable wing that can be removed from the main body and hooked directly onto a radiator or balcony, ideal for using heating warmth in winter. It also includes wheels, making it easy to move even when fully loaded.

    Vileda Express Radiator Clothes Airer

    For small loads or kitchen towels, the Vileda Express Radiator Clothes Airer is unbeatable. Its reinforced resin arms make it highly reliable for quick drying on radiators.

    towels drying on a rack outdoorstowels drying on a rack outdoors

    Making the most of sunny days

    When the sun is shining in the garden, nothing beats the freshness of outdoor air-dried laundry. For those days:

    Vileda Sun-Rise 50m Outdoor Rotary Clothes Dryer

    This rotary dryer features the Perfect Line system, which keeps the lines permanently tensioned, and the lines retract into the arms when closed. This keeps them clean and tangle-free, eliminating the need for a protective cover. Made from rust-free aluminium, it offers 50 metres of drying space.

    Why choose Vileda clothes airers for your family’s laundry?

    Freudenberg’s excellence is reflected in details that make everyday life easier:

    • Less ironing: designs that minimise wrinkles thanks to optimised bar thickness. 
    • Smart storage: all models fold compactly for easy storage. 
    • Durability: guarantees ranging from 3 to 5 years prove they are built to last. 
    • Flexibility: many models feature adjustable racks that extend according to the volume of your laundry.

    There’s no doubt that natural drying is a great way to maintain a sustainable home. It allows you to save money and energy while caring for your clothes and reducing your environmental footprint. Finding the perfect clothes airer for your space is the first step towards turning a tedious chore into an efficient and eco-friendly routine.

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    Catherine

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  • Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’: Plant of the Year for 2026

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    The Garden Club of America (GCA) has named Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’ Plant of the Year—which, according to its website, “is awarded annually to acknowledge the cultivation and use of native plants, trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, and perennials that are little known but deemed worthy to be preserved, propagated, promoted, and planted.”

    “We engage with a small group of horticulture professionals from various botanical gardens and arboreta in the US. They receive all nominations and rank the plants based on growth factors, ecological services, adaptability, etc.,” explains horticulturalist and Freeman Medal vice chair Cynthia Druckenbrod, of the selection process. “They chose Vernonia lettermanni ‘Iron Butterfly’ because of its late season color, compact growth habit making it successful in backyard gardens, and drought and disease tolerance.”

    Above: Photograph by Krzysztof Ziarnek via Wikimedia.

    While ironweed itself is not unknown, this cultivar is a recent addition. “More nurseries are growing and selling this cultivar now. It was a relatively recent introduction in 2014, and Mt. Cuba Center’s trial of Vernonia cultivars was conducted between 2020 and 2023. During that time, their botanists ranked V. lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’ very high,” she shares.

    The cultivar has a lot going for it—and landscape designers have taken notice (Piet Oudolf has been known to incorporate the plant into his landscapes). With beautiful, almost fern-like narrow leaves, it adds soft mounds of texture in the garden. Its clumping habit makes it well behaved. It can tolerate drought as well as the occasional deluge, making itself happy in just about any part of the garden that has full sun. It can grow in poor soil and doesn’t require much attention, but can benefit with a Chelsea chop in May. Its purple-ish flowers bloom as early as July and can continue to frost, providing food for migrating hummingbirds and butterflies.

    A 5-inch deep pot of Iron Butterfly Ironweed is $17.99 at High Country Gardens.
    Above: A 5-inch deep pot of Iron Butterfly Ironweed is $17.99 at High Country Gardens.

    “Gardens should provide nectar sources for pollinators equally during spring, summer, and fall if possible. I think most tend to focus on mid-summer blooming perennials. Fall-blooming perennials are a real delight providing color until frost and important food resources for insects that overwinter or are laying eggs in the fall.”

    One last thing, if you are wondering if the plant was named after rock band Iron Butterfly, the answer is, yes! Steve Castorani, from North Creek Nurseries, gave it its name as a nod to the band and to the plant’s toughness and ability to thrive in poor conditions.

    Cheat Sheet

    Above: Joe-Pye weed and Vernonia lettermannii in a Pennsylvania garden. Photograph by Larry Weaner, from Garden Visit: Out with the Lawn, In with the Native Plants.
    • Native to Arkansas and Oklahoma, the hardy perennial does best in zones 4 to 9.
    • Tolerates a wide range of soils.
    • Grows to 24- to 36-inches high and 18- to 36-inches wide. Clump forming.
    • Drought tolerant once established.
    • Low maintenance. Happy in a prairie as well as a rock garden.

    Keep It Alive

    A 1-pint pot of Vernonia lettermannii �216;Iron Butterly�217; is $19 at White Flower Farm.
    Above: A 1-pint pot of Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterly’ is $19 at White Flower Farm.
    • Prefers full sun but will tolerate light shade. Too little sun will make the plant floppy.
    • Quite happy in poor soil, since over-rich soil will do the same as too little sun.
    • Very disease- and pest-resistant.

    See also:

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  • How does a second marriage affect my estate planning? – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    A second marriage can reshape your family in many positive ways, but it also introduces new legal and financial considerations. When two households come together, there may be children from previous relationships, shared homes, inherited items of sentimental value and new commitments to balance. What many people don’t realise is that marriage automatically revokes a will. If estate planning isn’t updated after major life changes like this, your assets might pass in a way you never intended, leaving loved ones excluded in the most serious cases.

    For families building a life together, understanding how remarriage affects inheritance and wills can make a real difference to how smoothly things unfold in the future. Here, we explain the key issues that blended families should be aware of and how planning ahead can prevent stress and disputes later on.

    last will and testament

    Marriage revokes your previous will

    In England and Wales, marriage automatically cancels any existing will unless that will specifically states it was written in contemplation of the marriage. Once you remarry, the old will becomes invalid. If a new one isn’t drafted, your estate is divided according to the intestacy rules when you die.

    Under intestacy, your new spouse receives priority over children from earlier relationships. This often surprises families and is one of the most common ways loved ones are unintentionally excluded from any inheritance. If your spouse inherits everything, they are legally free to keep it or pass it on however they choose, and there is no guarantee your children will receive any part of the estate.

    Making a new will removes this uncertainty and lets you decide how your assets should be shared. With larger estates, children are likely to inherit some of the estate, but this is not particularly efficient for inheritance tax (IHT) purposes. A much better solution can be achieved with a carefully drafted will.

    Stepchildren and blended families

    Stepchildren don’t automatically inherit under intestacy rules. They can only receive a gift from your estate if you name them in a will. In blended families, where bonds are formed later in life, this can lead to difficult outcomes if a will is outdated or not in place at all.

    Tension sometimes arises when adult children worry about being displaced, or when a new partner becomes involved in financial decisions that were previously straightforward. The more clearly your wishes are recorded, the easier it is to protect relationships and avoid misunderstandings.

    How trusts can help

    Trusts are often used in second-marriage scenarios to balance the needs of a spouse with the desire to provide for children from a previous relationship. A life interest trust, for example, allows your spouse to benefit from income or use of a property during their lifetime, while preserving the capital for your children later on.

    Trusts can also be used to:

    • Protect assets you inherited from your own parents.
    • Ringfence property you want to keep within your family line.
    • Manage Inheritance Tax exposure.
    • Reduce the scope for conflict by making your intentions legally binding.

    Setting up a trust involves financial and legal considerations, so professional guidance is helpful to make sure the structure reflects what you want and works as expected.

    a person signing documentsa person signing documents

    Jointly held property and nominations

    Even with a carefully written will, some assets (such as certain types of property) follow different legal rules and may not be included in your estate in the way you intend.

    Jointly owned property

    If you own a home with someone else as joint tenants, your share automatically passes to the surviving owner through the right of survivorship, regardless of what your will says. If you prefer your share to pass under your will – for example, to adult children – you would need to change the ownership structure of the property to that of tenants in common first.

    Pensions and life insurance

    Pension schemes and life insurance policies usually rely on nomination forms or expressions of wishes. These must be kept up to date, especially after remarriage. If the nomination contradicts the will, the provider will normally rely on the form, even if it no longer reflects your intentions.

    Joint bank accounts

    Joint accounts usually pass directly to the surviving account holder. This means the balance does not form part of the estate for distribution under a will. In blended families, this can cause issues if the money was intended to be shared more widely among children or stepchildren.

    Avoiding will disputes

    Second marriages can create competing expectations about inheritance. Adult children may assume they will inherit directly, while a new spouse may believe they should receive the entire estate. Problems tend to arise when a will is outdated, unclear or cancelled by a marriage, or omits someone who was financially dependent on the deceased.

    Claims under the Inheritance (Provision for Family and Dependants) Act 1975 may arise when someone feels they have not been adequately provided for. Disputes can also follow where informal promises were made but not recorded, or where property and financial arrangements are more complicated than the will reflects.

    If disagreements do arise, or if you want support when planning to reduce the risk of conflict, Will dispute solicitors can clarify options and prevent issues.

    Keeping your estate plan current

    As your family grows and changes, your estate plan should change with it. Updating your will after remarriage, reviewing how property is owned, and checking nomination forms for pensions and insurance policies helps to make sure your intentions are followed. This preparation can bring peace of mind to families, especially in the emotional aftermath of a loved one’s death.

    Taking time to plan now supports those you care about and reduces the likelihood of disagreements later on, allowing your family to focus on the moments that matter.

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    Catherine

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  • Cherry Looks Back at Her September Garden, Part 2 – Fine Gardening

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    Hi GPODers!

    We’re are back in Richmond, British Columbia today, to see Part 2 of Cherry Ong’s spectacular September garden tour. If you missed it yesterday, we already saw an incredible assortment of early fall interest in Part 1, but Cherry has even more gorgeous and unique plantings to show off in this second batch of photos.

    Our largest container that was planted late spring and was soon taken down after this photo.

    shrub covered in purple berries‘Profusion’ beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii ‘Profusion’, Zones 6–8) in the front yard returned with a vengeance after significant hard pruning last year.

    close up of Callicarpa bodinieri ProfusionCloseup of those iridescent juicy berries.

    Japanese forest grass under a Acer palmatum Moonfire‘Moonfire’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Moonfire’, Zones 5–9) perfectly skirted by ‘All Gold’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’, Zones 4–9) in the front yard.

    close up of Acer palmatum Moonfire foliageCloseup of Moonfire’s bronzy foliage.

    Tricyrtis formosana Dark BeautyBehind ‘Moonfire’ by the picket are the quiet gorgeous blooms of ‘Dark Beauty’ toad lily (Tricyrtis formosana ‘Dark Beauty’, Zones 4–9). Difficult to capture!

    Fuchsia HawksheadMy favorite fuchsia growing in paired containers in the front yard and frequented by hummers: ‘Hawkshead’ fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica ‘Hawkshead’, Zones 7–9).

    Thank you so much for sharing these fabulous fall photos with us, Cherry! From the show-stopping plants you select for your space to the incredible combinations you create, there are always garden ideas worth stealing from your delightful designs.

    What is your favorite season to look back on? Are you anticipating spring blooms with a peruse through spring photos, or do you delight in the peak season and constantly return to photos of your garden during the summer sizzle? Maybe fabulous fall foliage photos unlock your favorite garden memories. Let us know in the comments, or consider sharing photos of your favorite season with the blog. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • Learn How to Grow Bristlecone Pine Trees | Gardener’s Path

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    There are a variety of treatment options which you can learn about in our guide to eradicating aphids.

    Mountain Pine Beetles

    Mountain pine beetles (Dendroctonus ponderosae) are native to the western United States and have devastated forests in the region.

    Historically, these beetles played a beneficial role by feeding on dying trees and accelerating decomposition.

    A close up of a mountain pine beetle on a tree.

    With more drought and higher temperatures, they’ve become a serious problem.

    In your own garden, they’re a bit easier to get a handle on, especially if you give your trees a good once-over every few months.

    Signs include the presence of quarter-inch black beetles, red sawdust (frass) at the tree base or in bark crevices, and yellowing needles.

    If you see any of these signs, try peeling away some bark and look for white larvae or their galleries. They typically only infest wood that’s at least five inches in diameter

    The adults lay eggs in the spring. The hatched larvae tunnel into the tree under the bark, where they feed and overwinter. They emerge in the spring to lay eggs, and the cycle begins anew.

    Killing the pests can be a challenge because the larvae are protected under the bark. To be effective, you’ll need to take a multi-pronged approach at the right time.

    A close up of a bottle of Monterey Bug Buster-O isolated on a white background.A close up of a bottle of Monterey Bug Buster-O isolated on a white background.

    Monterey Bug Buster-O

    In the spring, apply a pyrethrin-based product like Monterey’s Bug Buster-O, available at Arbico Organics.

    Apply according to label directions throughout spring.

    When you stop spraying, apply beneficial nematodes, specifically Heterorhabditis bacteriophora, that attack and parasitize larvae.

    A close up of the packaging of NemaSeek Beneficial Nematodes isolated on a white background.A close up of the packaging of NemaSeek Beneficial Nematodes isolated on a white background.

    NemaSeek Beneficial Nematodes

    Arbico Organics carries packets containing five to 500 million live nematodes. Follow application instructions carefully to maintain nematode viability.

    Disease

    Healthy trees cultivated in appropriate conditions rarely develop diseases.

    But overwatering, shady conditions, or excessive humidity can lead to these issues:

    Root Rot

    Excessively wet soil will inevitably lead to root root. These trees can’t handle wet feet at all. 

    If your bristlecone pine is exposed to wet conditions regularly, you’ll start to notice overall decline with falling needles and dying branches.

    If you dig under the soil and look at the roots, they will be soft and dark.

    Unfortunately, there’s little you can do. Stop all irrigation immediately – the tree may recover if damage isn’t severe, but there are no guarantees.

    White Pine Blister Rust

    The fungus Cronartium ribicola, introduced to North America from Asia in the early 1900s, causes a disease called white pine blight in many pine species.

    The disease requires a plant in the Ribes genus to complete its life cycle.

    That’s why some states have banned planting species like gooseberries and currants in the past. That’s how bad the disease can be.

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • Ask the Expert: How to Invite More Good Bacteria Into Your Garden (And Your Gut) – Gardenista

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    Is your garden probiotic? In other words, is it teeming with beneficial microbes that vastly outnumber pathogens and keep you healthy? Looking at your landscape from this angle, suggests British ecological gardener and designer Sid Hill, can be an easy way to boost your gut health.

    Gardeners tend to have healthier microbiomes than non-gardeners, he says, since handling plants and soil and working outdoors increases our intake of the good guys, which easily enter our systems. Biodiversity in plants boosts the biodiversity of our gut flora. So, removing even just lowly moss or pulling little plants out of cracks reduces this access. Instead, as gardeners we need to make sure our landscapes invite more plant life, and one way to do this is by using materials that have bioreceptivity. It’s simpler than it sounds.

    Photography courtesy of Sid Hill.

    Above: Gardener Sid Hill demonstrates on his YouTube channel that even the ground can be full of beneficial microbes if allowed to support moss and other small plants.

    Sid is a gardener who also coaches other gardeners on how to make their spaces more effective in supporting biodiversity. His communication style is persuasive, seen to good effect on his YouTube channel and on Instagram. Growing up, Sid was home-schooled, traveling around Europe with his parents in a campervan. At age 15, he even set up his own gardening business. Sid’s style is thoughtful. He is not looking for instant fame.

    Recently, we asked Sid to tell us more about how something as passive as paving or a wall can support biodiversity.

    Why is it important to encourage plant life in overlooked places?

    Above: Sid Hill lives in Totnes, Devon, historically a part of the ancient rainforest around the western edges of the British Isles. It’s mossy and the trees are covered with lichen. “Use materials that naturally host life on their surfaces.”

    “Science is showing that our own biology is closely linked to the health and diversity of plants in the landscape. We are constantly exchanging microbes with the environments around us. When those environments are thriving with plant life, that microbial exchange helps to strengthen our personal microbiome. And diversity is key.”

    What materials in a garden are bioreceptive?

    Above: Sid made this paving using local slate and stone, and aged wood as seating. In a bucket of water, he broke up moss that he gathered nearby and applied it to the cracks, which soon became green.

    “Natural stone, weathered wood, and other organic materials are bioreceptive in the sense that they have the ability to host life. Surface texture is a huge factor in whether something supports life or not (the ingredients for this are shelter, water, and nutrients). That’s why cracks in paving are so successful: those crevices provide shelter from disturbance, hold moisture, and capture organic matter, which offers nutrition for mosses and other plants to establish.”

    How do you reduce the impact of paving?

    Above: To bind together pathways, Sid uses soilcrete. “It creates a semi-permeable surface which helps soften hard landscaping and bring life back into those built areas.”

    “I’m an experimental gardener, always testing ideas and playing with new theories. The idea behind ‘soilcrete’ is to create a mix of roughly 5:1 garden soil to cement instead of using sand. Sand extraction has a huge environmental footprint, although, of course, cement is even more impactful. It’s very easy to use, but natural builders I’ve spoken to have since suggested using lime instead of cement. I haven’t tested that yet, so for me it’s still open for experimentation.”

    How can we adjust or improve the hard landscaping we already have?

    Above: Resist the impulse to tidy every crack and crevice.

    “The key is to make plant growth look intentional. Allow moss to grow in a geometric pattern through paving cracks. Lift a few paving slabs and plant herbs or ornamental grasses in those gaps. Or you can sow wildflowers into the cracks so you end up with a patio that offers bursts of flowers through the season, rather than something that feels neglected or overgrown.”

    See also:

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  • How to Grow and Keep Your Monstera Plant Happy – Garden Therapy

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    Everyone’s talking about monsteras! These houseplants have some of the most impressive-looking leaves, coated in slits and holes to make them especially unique. The star of the room, learn how to care for your prized monstera plant.

    The plant world had no idea what was in store for them the second interior designers started posting photos of monstera plants on Instagram. Arguably the most popular houseplant of the decade, everyone and their cousin seems to have a monstera plant somewhere in their home.

    And for good reason! These plants sure know how to draw the eye and become the focal point of the room. Their dramatic leaves add a tropical flair that has inspired prints from bedsheets to wallpaper. You know exactly what I’m talking about!

    Join in on the monstera craze and learn how to care for these tropical beauties.

    This post covers…

    monstera leafmonstera leaf
    Known as leaf fenestration, monstera leaves have natural holes and slits in their leaves.

    Meet the Monstera Plant

    Native to the rainforests of Central America, monstera plants come from the Araceae family. They’re known for their dramatic leaves with slits in them. Leathery and glossy, they make a statement in whatever room they’re in.

    Their signature slits or holes are known as fenestrations. Outdoors, the slits allow rain and sunlight to go through and reach the roots and leaves below. Due to its holes, the monstera has also earned its alternative name of a Swiss cheese plant.

    Out in the wild, you might see the monstera plant flowering. Tan or cream in colour, they’re popular with the bees and butterflies and turn into a fruit with rich and delicious taste. However, monstera houseplants won’t flower or fruit!

    Monstera can grow fast, up to 1-2 ft a year. They can get 2-3 ft wide and up to 3 ft tall. Natural climbers, they sprout many aerial roots in addition to their leaves.

    monstera aerial rootmonstera aerial root
    A small aerial root growing on a monstera.

    Types of Monstera Plants

    With over 48 species of monstera plants, there’s an incredible variety of monstera types out there. In fact, many are often mislabelled because they change so much in appearance as they grow. Here are some popular varieties that you

    Monstera deliciosaMonstera deliciosa
    Monstera deliciosa is the most popularized type of monstera.
    • Monstera deliciosa. The most popular type out there and the one you’re most likely to find at your local garden centre. They have the classic large, glossy green leaves with slits in them.
    • Monstera borsigniana. A variation of deliciosa. At first, it’s hard to tell the difference between the two types when young. However, borsigniana are smaller and grow faster. The slits tend to be in rows rather than at random like the deliciosa.
    • Monstera variegata. These monsteras are very popular and can be difficult to find and therefore more expensive. They’re known for a distinct colour variation of white and cream that almost looks painted on.
    • Monstera adansonii. Smaller than most of the others, the adansonii appears more vine-like. The holes stills take up about 50% of the leaf, with some appearing round and others more narrow.
    • Monstera dubia. Also known as the shingle plant, the dubia has smaller leaves with light and dark green veining. This is also a rarer variety; their leaves appear almost variegated.
    Monstera adansoniiMonstera adansonii
    Monstera adansonii are a smaller type of monstera that vines.

    Monstera Plant Care

    Monsteras aren’t too finicky, but they can be a little tempermental for beginner houseplant growers. Every plant has its ideal lifestyle, so here are some tips on proper monstera plant care.

    Location

    Swiss cheese plants add a dramatic flair wherever you place them, be it your living room or office. When placing it, keep in mind that they don’t like cold drafts and heaters. Their optimal temperature is 60-80°F (15-27°C). They don’t like to go below 55°F (12.8°C).

    In the wild, they like to climb upwards. To encourage this growth, give them a moss pole. Otherwise, they will grow outwards and take up quite a bit of room.

    climbing monstera plantclimbing monstera plant
    Most types of monstera need a climbing support of some kind, like a moss pole.

    Light

    Monster plants will happily sit in a not-so-sunny corner. They’re fairly tolerant of low light which makes them great for the areas of your home that need a little brightening up with some greenery.

    If you really want your monstera to thrive, place it in bright, indirect light. Be careful not to place it in direct sunlight as this can burn the leaves.

    Water

    Monster plants should be watered when the top 2-3 inches of the soil are dry. Use your finger and stick it in the soil to test for dryness. When it’s time to water, water thoroughly until you see water draining through the bottom holes. Toss out any excess water from the saucer.

    You want your monstera to dry out completely between waterings. In the summer, you will need to water fairly regularly and only occasionally during the cool season.

    Coming from rainforests, monstera plants like a fair amount of humidity. You can mist your plant once a week in the morning for extra humidity. You can make a humidity tray to help.

    swiss cheese plantswiss cheese plant
    Monstera plants thrive with humidity.

    Soil

    Use well-draining soil designed with houseplants in mind. You should keep the soil somewhat moist, but it should be in a pot with drainage holes to avoid any wet feet (which can lead to root rot).

    Fill your soil in a deep pot to accommodate the roots. The pot should be a few inches wider and deeper than the pot it came in.

    Fertilizer

    During the growth season, from spring to summer, fertilize your Swiss cheese plant once a month or every other week. Use a water-soluble fertilizer and always apply it to wet soil.

    monstera plantmonstera plant
    Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter.

    Common Issues

    Yellow leaves are a sign of improper watering. Only water your Swiss cheese plant when the top is dry, and water thoroughly in one go. Yellowing leaves may also indicate it’s not getting enough light.

    Leaves with brown edges mean the plant needs more humidity. If left unresolved, they will also turn yellow before falling off.

    Limp leaves mean the plant is likely not getting enough water. Give it a good soaking in the bathtub and let all the excess water drain out.

    The aerial roots can also get unruly. While you can trim them, it’s best to try and tuck them back down into the pot.

    Because of their large leaves, they can get dusty. To remove dust, wipe them down with a damp sponge or paper towel.

    If the leaves on your monster aren’t splitting, it likely means it’s not getting enough light. Try moving it to another location and also pay attention to your watering schedule.

    Propagating Your Monstera Plant

    The easiest way to propagate monstera plants is by taking stem cuttings and placing them in water. Here’s how to propagate them:

    1. Take your cutting using sanitized pruners. The cutting could be cut below the node (where a leaf has or will emerge), have an aerial root, and at least two leaves.
    2. Place your cutting in a vase or glass of water.
    3. Change the water every 2-3 days. After a couple of months, the cutting should have roots long enough to plant.
    4. Plant your monstera in new potting soil. Add in a moss pole for support and future climbing.

    You can also propagate by air layering, but this method is more difficult for beginners.

    monstera propagationmonstera propagation
    Once the roots are about 4-6 inches long, you can plant your monstera propagations in soil.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Monstera Plants

    Are monstera plants toxic?

    Monstera plants are mildly toxic for humans and pets. If consumed, it can cause irritation of the mouth and stomach.

    Are monstera plants easy to care for?

    As far as houseplants go, the monstera is fairly hardy. If you give them the right light and water, they’ll be happy as a clam. Most people struggle with monsters by not giving them any growing support, a lack of humidity, and improper watering.

    How do I know if my monstera plant is happy?

    A monstera that is happy and thriving will have lots of new growth and split leaves. Unhappy monsteras will have yellow leaves, brown tips, no split leaves, slow growth, and might sprawl to try and reach sunlight.

    climbing swiss cheese plantclimbing swiss cheese plant

    Do you have any more questions about monstera plants? Leave them in the comments below, and I’ll do my best to answer them!

    More Houseplant Care Guides

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Cherry Looks Back at Her September Garden, Part 1 – Fine Gardening

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    Happy Monday GPODers!

    A couple weeks ago we were treated to a winter photo submission that always inspires and delights, the gorgeous garden decor handmade by frequent GPOD contributor Cherry Ong (Cherry’s 2024 Winter Wreaths and Swags). Of course, Cherry’s eye for incredible plant combinations goes far beyond evergreen cuttings and can be seen in all of the plantings in her small but spectacular garden in Richmond, British Columbia (check out some of her previous submissions: Cherry’s August Garden, Cherry’s May Garden in British Columbia, A Cold but Colorful November in Cherry’s Garden, Early Summer in Cherry’s Garden, October in Cherry’s Garden, and so many more). Today we get another taste of her incredible garden designs and spectacular plant selections with photos from her garden this past September.

    Wedding Gown™ hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Dancing Snow’, Zones 5–9) colouring intensely during September. It is the latest to bloom among all my hydrangeas. The towering maple behind it is Red Bamboo Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Beni otake’, Zones 5–9). The birdcage is an antique reproduction piece made of aluminum with a French faux bois design from Southlands Nursery (Vancouver).

    Wedding Gown hydrangeaCloseup of Wedding Gown™ mopheads.

    Hakonechloa macra aureola in small gardenOrnamental grass, especially ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9), always shows best in the fall!

    Acer palmatum Ukigumo foliageFloating Clouds Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Ukigumo’, Zones 5–9) in September. It is the smallest among all my planted in ground Japanese maples.

    close up of bright green and dark red coleus

    Closeup of this gorgeous I don’t know the name of coleus planted in a container under the faux bois bird cage.

    tropical foliage containerTropicals in a large container fills the space left my early dormant perennials like trillium and bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis, Zones 3–8).

    small perennial garden in fallView of the perennial garden from the back gate.

    garden bed with mix of perennials and annualsA closer look at the garden bed with little containers planted with annuals tucked in between perennials.

    Cherry sent in so many lovely photos of her early fall garden that we are returning to British Columbia tomorrow to see even more fantastic early fall vignettes.

    Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • How to Grow Flapjack Paddle Plant (Kalanchoe luciae)

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    It is unlikely that an indoor specimen will bloom. However, you can try to mimic nature and encourage flowering.

    Provide 12 hours of sunlight with the aid of a grow light, and less than 12 hours of darkness during the last six weeks of the dormant fall and winter period.

    It is also essential to withhold fertilizer and water minimally during this time.

    Soil

    The ideal potting medium for flapjack paddle kalanchoe is gritty and well-draining. Cactus and succulent soil is appropriately formulated to meet the need for pH in the 6.5 to 7.5 range.

    Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix is composed of organic compost and peat moss to provide optimal nutrition, inorganic sand for rapid drainage, and limestone to maintain a slightly acidic pH.

    Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix

    Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix is available from Hoffman via Amazon.

    You can also make your own succulent potting soil following our recipe here.

    Water

    Because succulents are prone to rotting in overly wet soil, it’s best to let the pot dry completely before watering. Use a moisture meter as your guide.

    During dormancy, moisture needs are greatly reduced as the flapjack plant is not actively growing.

    You can learn more about watering succulents here.

    Fertilizer

    While it is not a heavy feeder, the flapjack paddle plant benefits from a monthly nutrient boost during the spring and summer growing season.

    A horizontal image of a flapjack cactus (Kalanchoe luciae) growing outdoors in light sunshine.A horizontal image of a flapjack cactus (Kalanchoe luciae) growing outdoors in light sunshine.

    Use a balanced liquid houseplant food with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10, or similar.

    Dilute it to half strength and apply when watering. Withhold fertilizer during the fall and winter dormant period.

    See our guide to fertilizing succulents for more information.

    Where to Buy

    You can find flapjack paddle plants available at most nurseries that carry a good selection of succulents.

    Upon receipt of a starter pot, assess its moisture needs. If the growing media is dry, water it until water runs out of the drainage holes.

    Place the pot in a location with bright, indirect sunlight away from drafts.

    A close up square image of a small flapjack paddle plant in a grower's pot.A close up square image of a small flapjack paddle plant in a grower's pot.

    Flapjack Paddle Plant

    Flapjack paddle plants are available from Planet Desert in four-inch, six-inch, and two-gallon pots.

    In addition to the straight species, there is a variegated cultivar, ‘Fantastic,’ with multicolored green and cream leaves edged in red.

    A square image of Kalanchoe luciae 'Fantastic' growing in a small pot pictured in light sunshine on a soft focus background.A square image of Kalanchoe luciae 'Fantastic' growing in a small pot pictured in light sunshine on a soft focus background.

    ‘Fantastic’

    You can find variegated flapjack paddle plant ‘Fantastic’ available in two-gallon pots from Planet Desert.

    Maintenance

    Flapjack paddle plant prefers a snug-fitting pot with about an inch of space between the foliage and the container rim to accommodate a watering can spout.

    When it spreads to fill the vessel completely and/or roots poke from the drainage holes, go up one pot size.

    A close up vertical image of a small Kalanchoe luciae in full bloom outdoors.A close up vertical image of a small Kalanchoe luciae in full bloom outdoors.

    Whether or not you need to increase the size of the container, it’s beneficial to change the potting mix every two years or so.

    This avoids soil compaction that adversely affects the ability of the roots to efficiently absorb nutrients and water.

    Additional maintenance includes the removal of damaged or dead leaves, a prime breeding ground for common houseplant pests and diseases, which we discuss below.

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    Nan Schiller

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  • Hydrotherapy at Home: Using a Hot Tub for Chronic Pain – Garden Therapy

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    Adding a used hot tub to my backyard design was the best choice I made this year. There are so many hot tub benefits to consider, the biggest of which is pain management. My hot tub gave me my mobility, energy, and, really, my life back. Here’s how you can get some hydrotherapy at home using a hot tub.

    Getting a hot tub wasn’t an easy choice for me. As a firm eco-conscious and regenerative gardener, a big energy-sucking, chemical-heavy hot tub wasn’t exactly fitting into my new home plans.

    But as I found my pain getting worse and my flareups becoming more frequent, I was desperate for a way to manage my pain without needing to pop painkillers 24/7.

    I researched a lot before settling on a used hot tub that was selling for practically pennies on Facebook Marketplace. With a little bit of work and renovations, I turned what would be junk into a more eco-friendly hot tub.

    You can read all about that project and how to adjust your own hot tub here.

    Buying this hot tub and making room for it in my garden design is one of the best decisions I have ever made for my body. It has become my daily saviour for dealing with my chronic pain. Let me explain!

    using a hot tub at home for hydrotherapyusing a hot tub at home for hydrotherapy
    My hot tub is secondhand but still works beautifully after putting in some work.

    My Struggle With Chronic Pain

    Since 2006, I’ve been dealing with chronic pain. For years, I’ve dealt with my disability and have found ways to manage it fairly effectively. But as I get older, holy cow, it can take me out, especially in the winter.

    Many pain medications do a number on my stomach, and I’m sensitive to most prescribed pain options. Unfortunately, I can’t pop pills every time I feel pain. When I do, I usually have different negative reactions to deal with.

    Chronic pain has a substantial impact on my life. While I’m used to it, I do need to break the pain cycle. It won’t go away with rest, like an injury might. It occurs all the time unless I find a way to manage it.

    I’m also an active person with chronic pain. I want to get outside, walk with the dog, putter in the garden, ski in the winter, and go camping with kiddo. How can I exercise and do everything I want to do?

    Even those who love to chill out, will find how exhausting chronic pain can be on the brain. It affects not only our physical health but our emotional and mental health.

    The longer the pain goes on, the harder it is to keep energetic. I don’t have the ability to exercise how I used to, which only increases the chronic pain as I lose muscle tone and carry more weight.

    All that being said, I’ve had to begin looking for ways to manage chronic pain that will consistently work for me as I get older. My hot tub benefits have not gone unnoticed, and I find myself wanting to gush about it so others who may struggle with chronic pain can feel some relief, too.

    hot tub for back painhot tub for back pain
    Heat from water can help to relax the body and reduce stiffness.

    Using Hydrotherapy at Home

    Hydrotherapy is a type of treatment for physical pain and stiffness using water. This can include aquatic exercise, sitz baths, saunas, hot water compresses, and even the bath you have at home after a long day.

    Considered an alternative treatment, different cultures have used varying forms of hydrotherapy for thousands of years. What I love about it is how accessible it is and that it’s quite effective for various symptoms.

    Years ago, I had an infrared sauna. While I liked it, I never really got into the routine of using it. It didn’t feel as supportive on my body, and I took long hot baths filled with Epsom salts instead.

    Everybody will have a different preference and experience with heat for treatment, but I found that a hot bath helped me feel better the next day.

    When I moved and was thinking about what to do with my outdoor space, a hot tub seemed like a great option as a daily bath taker. I’ve even had them multiple times a day when I’m experiencing a bad flare-up.

    I saw a hot tub as a way to help me stay off painkillers, which have ruined my gut. It would also allow me to save water and get away from bathtubs. While my new house had a beautiful clawfoot tub, I found its shape very hard, and it put a lot of pressure on my body, not to mention that it was hard to get in and out.

    All the Hot Tub Benefits!

    Pain Management

    The reason I sought out a hot tub was pain management, and it has not disappointed me in this regard. I can wake up in the morning with so much pain that I won’t be able to function. Before anything, I will pop in the hot tub and feel my body return to me. I also use it before bed to help break the pain cycle before sleep.

    Workout Recovery

    As someone who is pretty active, it can also help with my recovery after I go on my daily dog walk or do a little bit of exercise. After a whole day of straining my body and being exhausted, I can use the hot tub to help put me in a state of relaxation.

    Mobility

    After I have a soak, I notice an immediate release in my body. It greatly improves my mobility because the muscles are less stiff.

    Those will also find that aquatic exercise has a very low impact, so doing a little bit of movement within the water can help you get your body moving without putting much stress on your joints.

    Relaxation

    Reduced pain, relaxed muscles, and less stiffness all mean I can move around much better. For this reason, I get a way better sleep and prevent even more flare-ups from occurring.

    Mental Health

    The mental health aspect of a hot tub must not go unnoticed as well. Reducing my pain has helped me achieve better mental clarity. I’ve reduced my stress load and found a new component of my self-care ritual.

    I developed my hot tub, so it is part of my garden. I can sit in the hot tub looking at the sky, watch the crows fly overhead, and enjoy my garden space.

    Reducing Pain Medications

    Taking pain medications would allow me pain relief in one area but would cause gut issues and discomfort in other areas. A hot tub could provide me with pain relief without causing another kind of pain elsewhere. This would help my emotional resilience as I know I’m doing something good for myself.

    Less Water Waste

    I used to use baths as a form of recovery and relaxation, relying on them daily and sometimes twice a day to help me keep my body moving. As you can imagine, that would use up a lot of water.

    Now, I can use my hot tub 2-3 times a day and not feel guilty about all that water going down the drain.

    I keep my hot tub well-insulted, actually replacing the old insulation with hard foam.  The original cover was also recycled and replaced with a new one to maximize insulation and the hot tub’s energy efficiency.

    outdoor shower bamboo base surrounded by crush graveloutdoor shower bamboo base surrounded by crush gravel
    My shower and French drain are next to my hot tub, which filters water into the ground and my garden.

    Getting Social

    Another aspect that I didn’t initially think about was how fun having a hot tub would be. When I had friends over, we could all sit in the hot tub and visit there instead of going out or having drinks inside. And it’s so, so lovely!

    hot tub benefitshot tub benefits
    My hot tub is part of my patio area, which is great for entertaining.

    Hot and Cold Hot Tub Circuits

    The hot and cold circuit is known more professionally as contrast bath therapy, a form of hydrotherapy where you alternate putting your body in hot then cold water. It’s often associated with Scandinavian culture and is a highlight at many spas.

    Contrast bath therapy works by rapidly changing your circulatory system and changing your heart rate. First, your blood vessels open up when your body is immersed in hot water. Then, the opposite happens in cold water as your capillaries get smaller. The contrast creates a pumping motion in your blood vessels, which can help with physical symptoms.

    Contrast bath therapy is a passive and non-invasive form of therapy, so it’s easy to do for those who are having difficulty doing much besides sitting.

    Here’s my personal hot and cold circuit cycle that I use:

    1. When I’m feeling bad, I start with a fifteen-minute soak in the hot tub with the jets on, giving me a “massage.”
    2. After, I have a quick one-minute icy shower with my outdoor shower. Yes, it’s hard to leave the comfort of the warmth, but it stimulates my nerves.
    3. Have a ten-minute rest. I sit outside on my patio, wrapped in a towel or blanket.
    4. If I’m feeling better, I’ll get ready for the day. If I’m still not doing well, I’ll repeat it all again. Sometimes, I do up to three cycles.

    Caring for Your Skin After Being in a Hot Tub

    The one thing I will say about having a hot tub is that it can be tough on your skin. For the record, I have sensitive skin, and I still think the hot tub is well worth it.

    To help, I stay hydrated. I always drink water when I’m in the hot tub. Afterward, I make sure to rinse off and use my natural soaps. The cold showers, as part of my hot/cold circuit, also help by closing up the blood vessels that cause skin dryness and rosacea.

    It’s also a good idea to moisturize. I also spritz myself with witch hazel and rose water.

    I use very few chemicals to keep my hot tub as natural as possible (read more about that here). I use the minimum amount of what’s needed to try and make the water as sensitive and skin-friendly as possible.

    I change my hot tub water about every four months, sometimes sooner if there have been many people in it.

    All these things help to prevent my skin from feeling dry and scratchy. While my skin bothers me occasionally, I find the pain management well worth this side effect.

    FAQ for My At-Home Hot Tub

    What costs can you expect for a hot tub?

    Since I got a used hot tub, the initial cost wasn’t that bad. There are so many hot tubs out there that I highly recommend you find someone local who refurbishes them and will deliver it to you.

    You’ll also need to prepare the space for the hot tub to sit, which should be considered in the initial cost. Moving hot tubs is also expensive and should be done by special movers.

    There are chemicals you’ll need for maintenance. I don’t use any chemicals besides bromine and baking soda, as well as an RV water filter.

    The ongoing cost of it isn’t too bad if you’re insulting it well. I also found that I’m likely saving money, considering how often I would fill my bathtub beforehand. Not to mention, my hot tub is electric, while my home’s hot water heater is natural gas so it’s a cleaner energy source.

    How do you lift the hot tub with reduced mobility?

    I installed a bar lifter in my hot tub. It allows me to fold the hot tub cover in half and then use the lifter to move the cover onto the bench I have behind the hot tub. Even when my mobility is restricted, I find lifting quite simple.

    More Helpful Tips to Try

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • How to Grow Tree Philodendron (Split Leaf Philodendron)

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    Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (formerly Philodendron selloum syn. P. bipinnatifidum)

    The philodendron houseplant is such a reliable old friend and so commonplace that you might tend to overlook it in favor of more remarkable species.

    But then along comes the tree philodendron, sometimes called lacy leaf, split leaf, or horsehead philodendron, a species so large and bold you can’t help but take notice.

    It goes by various other common names as well, including panda or fruit salad plant.

    This tropical species has vast green, glossy, heart-shaped leaves that are deeply lobed, with cuts so deep they reach almost to the center vein.

    A close up horizontal image of a tree philodendron (Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum) growing in a decorative pot by a window.

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    This plant is easily confused with another jumbo-size, bodacious tropical, Monstera deliciosa, which also has divided leaves and grows big and tall.

    But those Swiss cheese plants may also have enclosed holes on their leaves, while T. bipinnatifidum has the deeply cut lobes only.

    In USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 13, this foliage plant will grow outdoors year-round, either in large containers or planted in a garden or border.

    Its tall stature is tree-like, and plants will commonly lose their bottom leaves, leaving the central stalk exposed.

    Want to grow this big, bold beauty in your own home? I have plenty of tips to help yours thrive, from propagation to taking care of pests and preventing disease.

    Here’s the lineup:

    Native to southern Brazil and the regions of Argentina, Bolivia, and Paraguay that are nearby, tree philodendrons are tropical.

    Outdoors or in the wild, they can grow in excess of 15 feet tall with an upright habit, and spread 10 feet or more.

    Mature plants, often of at least 20 years of age, may also produce flowers.

    But these are minute, covering a spadix that is protected within a spathe before it blooms, like what you will see on anthuriums and peace lilies.

    A close up vertical image of a large tree philodendron growing in a glass house.A close up vertical image of a large tree philodendron growing in a glass house.

    Indoors, the plants can still reach eight to 10 feet tall and spread six feet or more in ideal conditions, though you can limit this growth by planting them in containers no larger than 12 inches in diameter.

    Vining philodendrons are typical, but T. bipinnatifidum was once categorized as one of the less common, “self-heading” types.

    Members of the Meconostigma group of philodendrons – which have since been moved to their own genus – produce leaves that grow very close together, with all of them emerging from a single clump at the crown and no branching.

    Quick Look

    Common name(s): Tree, lacy leaf, split leaf, or horsehead philodendron, panda or fruit salad plant

    Plant type: Tropical herbaceous perennial

    Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10-12 (outdoor)

    Native to: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay

    Exposure: Low to bright indirect light (indoors), partial shade (outdoors)

    Soil type: Rich, sandy loam or potting mix, well-draining

    Soil pH: 5.0-6.0, slightly acidic

    Time to maturity: 15-20 years

    Mature size: 8-10 feet (indoors), 15 feet+ (outdoors) high by 6+ feet wide

    Best uses: Houseplant, borders, patio container

    Taxonomy

    Order: Alismatales

    Family: Araceae

    Subfamily: Aroideae (formerly Meconostigma)

    Genus: Thaumatophyllum (formerly Philodendron)

    Species: Bipinnatifidum

    As they get older, these plants will develop a woody trunk of up to four inches in diameter and begin to shed their lower leaves, sporting leaf scars that resemble an eye with a darker pupil at the center where the foliage has fallen.

    I like the offbeat appearance, but if you don’t, you can always limit the size of the plants before the trunks develop, merely by restricting the pots to 12 inches in diameter or so.

    A close up horizontal image of a large tree philodendron growing outdoors with the distinctive woody trunk.A close up horizontal image of a large tree philodendron growing outdoors with the distinctive woody trunk.

    As self-headers, these plants also develop aerial roots that will grow from the long stem down to the ground. These roots support the plant as it grows taller.

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    Rose Kennedy

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  • Designing the Vegetable Garden: How to Make a Garden Map

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    If you have begun working on how to make a garden, you may feel a bit overwhelmed at the sheer amount of information, options, and how to keep track of it all. That’s where this garden map comes in handy! It’s a simple visual tool that will work for newbie gardeners and master gardeners alike.

    The first step in starting a vegetable garden, or any garden really, is to write out a plan. The plan can be anything from a few Post It notes on a seed catalog to a computerized garden map.

    I like to create something in between: a hand-drawn map of the garden beds with the planting plan. This garden map is a great tool to help you fully plan out your garden to maximize its space and get the best possible vegetable harvest.

    vegetable garden mapvegetable garden map

    Why Should I Use a Garden Map?

    If you have a vegetable garden, a garden map is a must each year. It will help you determine how many seeds and plants you will need and where you should plant each of them. It also will help you keep track of what you will be producing year round and allow you to group similar harvest seasons together.

    Typically, the vegetable garden needs to be planned out each year. Vegetables are annuals (for the most part) and when they reach maturity we eat them, so they need to be planted every year. Plus, each year our garden grows and changes and we need to keep up with it!

    There are so many factors to where, when, and how you plant the different vegetables, that a map is the best way to keep you on track. When to start seeds, whether or not to start them outdoors, when to transplant seedlings, good plant companions, and crop rotation are all things to think about when designing a garden plan.

    This is a good activity to do in late winter when you’ve got spring on the brain. I find it gets me in the gardening spirit while it is still snowy and cold outside. While it is great for vegetables, you can follow similar steps for a brand new garden or a major garden transformation. Here are the steps that I use for my mapping process.

    (If you need help building garden beds then start here instead.)

    Blank zoning map to use in an at-home gardenBlank zoning map to use in an at-home garden

    How to Make a Garden Map

    Ready to get started? I’ll walk you through each step so you can learn how to make a garden plan with ease!

    Map Out Your Garden Space

    Measure your vegetable garden and draw a garden map to scale 1″ representing 1′ in the garden. Draw in any obstacles that you will have to contend with like posts, irrigation heads, or other structures you need to work within the garden.

    Label north on the map and watch the sun over the course of a few days to get a sense of what the light will be like. Remember that the sun in the summer and fall will be in different positions in the sky. Trees will leaf out and create shade, buildings may create more or less shade as the sun moves.

    If this is your first year mapping your garden, make notes in a gardening journal throughout the year as to how the light will fall. Here is my garden helper coloring in the sun and shade while we plan over a coffee date.

    Child designing a map for gardeningChild designing a map for gardening

    Create Your Wish List

    Grab some seed catalogs and write down all of the vegetables, fruits, and herbs that you want to grow. Now, look up each of them in a seed catalog written for your area. You may find that some of your top choices are not even for sale in your area. Sadly, this is because not every veggie can grow in every climate. You will need to stick to what you can grow, so cross those off the list.

    Look at the number of days until harvest and do the math. Some vegetables need a really long growing season and if cool fall weather comes before the harvest date, you may never even taste the fruits of your labor. Think about requirements like plant size at maturity, spacing needs, and shade/sun requirements to further refine your list.

    You may also be able to have multiple crops in one season! There are some speedy spring vegetables to grow for early crops as well as vegetables that can be planted later in the season. Consider grouping these vegetables together to get multiple harvests from a single area in one season.

    The other thing I think about when creating my vegetable garden seed list is cost and availability of the vegetables. I choose heirloom seed varieties, rare colors, and expensive-to-buy produce to grow in my home garden.

    In the winter, I also like to take an inventory of the previous season’s harvest. I look at which vegetables did well and which ones did I wish I had more of. This way I can be sure my garden is even more successful the following year when I map it out. I also note which vegetables did not perform well and see whether or not I should try and grow them again or move them to a new location.

    West Coast Seeds Catalog for Garden PlanningWest Coast Seeds Catalog for Garden Planning

    Add Plants to Your Garden Map

    Use pencil so you can easily move plants to new spaces or add more. Our vegetable garden is a small area that has four planters, two on the ground and two in the sky in a vertical planting system. To determine what plants went into the beds I looked at the location and amount of shade. I planned for root vegetables and plants with deep roots in the two beds that are on the ground. Shallow rooted plants when in the upper planters. I also make sure to note vertical vegetables such as tomatoes or peas. They will need additional support and may eventually cause shade to lower growing plants later in the season.

    Finally, put pen to paper and mark the final location of your vegetables. This plan may change as the season goes by. Mark those changes, and anything that you noticed throughout the year right on your garden map. It will be a great starting point for next year, and a memento of your garden for years to come.

    Make sure you put your map somewhere for safe keeping. Make notes on what worked and what didn’t work so you can plan again better next year. Saving your map for future reference can be an immense help!

    vegetable garden plan with seed packetsvegetable garden plan with seed packets

    Garden Map Tips

    When mapping, I like to use square foot gardening. If you have uniquely-shaped garden beds like I do, then square foot planting will be a very helpful tool. Mark each square foot on the garden map, then you can determine how many plants of each type can go in each square. Some vegetables like cabbage and cauliflower require at least a square to themselves, but others like carrots can squeeze 12-16 plants into a square. There is a guide here for square foot planting.

    That being said, get creative with your space! As I mentioned earlier, I primarily grow my vegetables in pots and containers and my unique vertical garden. Don’t just think of traditional vegetable beds. Anyone can benefit from a garden map, especially those with small and uniquely shaped gardens.

    You may also want to consider crop rotation for your garden. Plants that belong to the same family tend to use the same nutrients in the soil. Planting the same vegetables year after year in the same area can deplete the soil. Similar plant families include alliums, Solanaceae, brassica, cucurbit, and legume families. When doing your planting research, make a note of what family it belongs to. Keeping your map is especially helpful in keeping track of crop rotation year after year.

    How to map your gardenHow to map your garden

    More Gardening Posts to Read

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Current Obsessions: Slow and Steady – Gardenista

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    What are you up to this weekend? Ahead, wintery inspiration, a bedding sale, a palette we’re admiring, and more small things we’ve noted this week. Bay Area fashion designer Erica Tanov is selling her Berkeley house. Love: The 100 Candleholders exhibit, inspired by JB Blunk’s 1981 exhibition 100 Plates, features 100 artists’ takes on the […]

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  • How to Bottom Water Houseplants | Gardener’s Path

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    If you want to keep your plants alive, there are a few things you have to do: give them light, feed them now and then, and – of course – water them.

    Watering seems pretty straightforward to me. You fill a jug or can, bring it over to your plant, and dump the liquid in, right? Not much room to run into trouble.

    But despite that, I’ve managed to find trouble so many times, and I can pretty much guarantee that you have as well.

    A close up horizontal image of a collection of houseplants by a window with sun streaming in.

    Fortunately there’s a different way, and it can help take the guesswork out of figuring out how much to provide. That means healthier, happier plants.

    Plus, it can protect your floors and shelves (and books!) from overzealous watering.

    Up ahead, here’s what we’ll discuss to help you figure out the art of bottom watering.

    What Is Bottom Watering?

    To put it simply, bottom watering (sometimes called reverse watering) is giving your plant’s roots hydration from the bottom up.

    Instead of dumping liquid onto the top of the soil of your container plants, you allow the soil to soak it up into its roots from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.

    A close up horizontal image of. houseplant in a black plastic pot set in a saucer on a terra cotta tiled surface.A close up horizontal image of. houseplant in a black plastic pot set in a saucer on a terra cotta tiled surface.

    This isn’t the same thing as wick watering. That’s when you use a central container like a bucket to slowly wick moisture via ropes into nearby containers.

    It’s a super handy skill to have in your back pocket if you travel a lot, but not what we’ll be covering here.

    Why Use This Technique?

    I warped my hardwood floors when I spilled an entire watering can once.

    But beyond architectural disasters, I’ve also managed to drown my plants, and to chronically underwater them.

    A close up horizontal image of two hands from the left of the frame hydrating a houseplant set on a windowsill.A close up horizontal image of two hands from the left of the frame hydrating a houseplant set on a windowsill.

    And don’t tell me you haven’t overwatered to the point where the drainage plate overflows and you’re frantically trying to find a towel before it runs everywhere… just me? I don’t think so!

    Let’s not even discuss the time I decided it was a brilliant idea to put a bunch of houseplants on my wire shelves above a collection of leather bound books…

    Okay, so it’s pretty straightforward to understand, but why would you want to water from the bottom? Doesn’t pouring it on the top work perfectly well?

    Yes, there is nothing wrong with top watering (aside from occasional mishaps), but there are times when it isn’t ideal. For instance, some plants suffer if they have moisture on their leaves.

    It’s hard to avoid splashes and mistakes altogether, even when you’re careful.

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • Episode 189: Our 2026 Garden Plans  – Fine Gardening

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    See What Were Planning for the Garden in 2026

    What’s that old adage? “The road to hell is paved with good intentions.” Well, call us eternal optimists, but every January we like to make a list of our goals and aspirations for our gardens in the coming year. After all, a new gardening season is the perfect time for fresh ideas and bold decisions. In this episode, we dig into our plans for 2026, sharing what we’re upgrading, what we’re rethinking, and where we’re ready to start from scratch.

    There are plans for refreshing tired beds to completely overhauling borders that no longer work (or perhaps cutting down an aged stewartia tree?). We’ll also talk through the practical considerations shaping the season ahead. Join us for an honest, behind-the-scenes look at how our gardens are evolving—and how you might approach changes in your own landscape. 

    Episode Expert: Susan Calhoun is the owner of Plantswoman Design in Bainbridge Island, Washington. She is also a regional reporter for FineGardening.com.  

    Listen to More Podcast Episodes!
    Check Out Let’s Argue About Plants on YouTube
    Subscribe to Fine Gardening Magazine


    Danielle’s Garden Plans for 2026

    • Add a dead hedge on Hospital Hill 
    • Hide the shade garden propane tank 
    • Renovate or remove: Japanese stewartia and ‘Heronswood Globe’ katsura 
    • Go on an international garden tour to the Netherlands 
    Dead hedge inspiration from the UK
    Propane Tank path in Danielle Garden in 2026
    New peastone pathway by propane tank area (installed in 2025)
    Overgrown trees in front of house
    Overgrown trees in front beds (fall of 2025)
    Superbloom Arnhem
    Netherlands in bloom

    Carol’s Garden Plans for 2026

    • Edit and improve Manic Pixie Woodland Clearing beds 
    • Add more native plants to stream bank beds 
    • Add beaked yucca (Yucca rostrata, Zones 5–9) for contrast in front beds 
    • Update my garden site plan 
    Back patio view
    Edit and improve Manic Pixie Woodland Clearing beds
    Carols stream bed
    Add more native plants to stream bank beds
    Yucca rostrata in Michael Barbour garden
    Yucca rostrata in Michael Barbour’s garden
    Carol Collins Site plan 1
    Site plan

    Susan Calhoun’s Garden Plans for 2026

    • Install a gravel garden by the shoreline patio (Pacific Northwest) 
    • Native plant border and education (Arizona)
    Future Gravel Garden location for Susan Calhoun
    Future gravel garden location
    Cliff Rose Purshia stansburiana courtesy of Susan Calhoun
    Cliffrose (Purshia stansburiana, Zones 4–9)
    Apache Plume_ Fallugia paradoxa courtesy of Susan Calhoun
    Apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa, Zones 6–9) and other native Arizona wildflowers

       

    Photos courtesy of the contributors unless otherwise noted. 

     

    Read More from Susan Calhoun: 

    Get Four-Season Interest Using Ornamental Grasses in the Garden

    Designing a Garden in the Woods 

    A Deer-Proof Garden Design for Dry Shade

     

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    Carol Collins

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