Avondale and Irving Park Restaurants Win Titles for Chicago’s Best Burgers

Eden, the farm-to-table restaurant off the Chicago River in Avondale, and Irving Park’s JT’s Genuine Sandwich Shop were the big winners over the weekend at Chicago Gourmet’s Hamburger Hop, the annual competition that crowns the best burgers in the city.

Eden chef Devon Quinn took home the competition’s Judges Award, given out by an eight-member panel including former Tribune critic Phil Vettel, Chicago dining editor Amy Cavanaugh, and Mott St chef Edward Kim.

JT’s Genuine Sandwich Shop earned the People’s Choice Award, determined by votes from the event’s sold-out crowd. Fourteen chefs competed in the event on Friday, September 27, part of Chicago Gourmet, the food festival created by the Illinois Restaurant Association.

The competitors were bound by ingredients from sponsors, like beef from Sysco and cheese from Kerrygold. But that didn’t mean they couldn’t get adventurous with add-ons.

Quinn and Eden chef de cuisine Brian Shim blended two cheeses — Dubliner and Reserve cheddar; and MontAmore, a Parmesan-inspired cheese from Wisconsin — into an American cheese. They also topped their burger with dill pickle-corn slaw (Quinn’s favorite pickle Claussen with grilled corn and onions bound together with black garlic aioli), flatwater arugula, and roasted tomatoes. It was served on a potato bun from sponsor Turano Baking.

“There are lots of flavors, but each one comes through really clearly in the burger,” says Quinn.

The People’s Choice winner from JT’s used Kerrygold aged cheddar, Dijonnaise, pickled Granny Smith apples, and hickory-smoked bacon. It was served on a Turano French brioche bun. Before his win, Chris Cunningham, a first-time competitor at Hamburger Hop, was just happy to be invited: “It’s a competition, but we’ve already won meeting all these wonderful new faces. We’re having an absolute blast today.”

Post-award, Cunningham was planning to take his team out to dinner. “They did an awesome job dealing with the wind and everything back there on the grill, so I can’t wait to celebrate and share this with them.”

High winds were a problem Friday night, with the National Weather Service warning Chicagoans to be ready for winds between 30 to 35 mph as a result of the remnants of Hurricane Helene.

Creativity is a word that could also describe what some of this year’s judges, a mix of food media folks, hospitality purveyors, chefs, and restaurant owners, were looking for in a winning burger. Last year, a Seattle chef swept both awards. This year’s event featured one out-of-towner, but a repeat of 2023 didn’t occur. The 14 participants even included a vegan restaurant, Soul Veg City.

“I look for burgers that there’s something special about them,” says Chicago’s Cavanaugh. “They have something unique, but they don’t stray too far afield from what a burger is supposed to be.”

Cavanaugh’s technique for judging 14 burgers? “I usually take two bites. I feel like you need a second bite to confirm.” To prepare for the meaty onslaught, she ate a big breakfast and four crackers for lunch. She had some thoughts about her eating habits post-judging too: “I might turn my back on cows entirely for the next few weeks.”

Former Tribune critic Vettel has judged four Hamburger Hops, but he previously covered all the Chicago Gourmets while at the newspaper. “There’s an urban legend going around that I’ve correctly predicted the winner every single year,” he says. “It’s not actually true, but I go with it.”

While more of a friendly competition than, say, Top Chef, winning Hamburger Hop does come with benefits beyond bragging rights. “I’ve seen some restaurants that have won either the People’s Choice or the Judge’s Choice burger in the past, and they still have those burgers on their menus,” says Vettel.

Mott St’s Kim planned on keeping an open mind when it came to judging: “I’m trying not to have any preconceived notions.” He prepared by not eating too much the days prior to the event. “I’ve come in with a hungry appetite and whichever burger tastes best is going to win for me.”

For her Seoul burger, chef Kaleena Bliss of Chicago Athletic Association Hotel and Cindy’s leaned into Korean flavors. Housemade ssamjang and a white kimchi aioli added some heat, while cucumber, cilantro, shredded carrot, and calamansi juice brought freshness and acidity to the hefty burger.

“Who doesn’t want to be part of Chicago Gourmet?” says Bliss, who moved to Chicago last year and competed on Top Chef: Wisconsin. “Everyone cool is doing it.”

Another first-timer was chef Jim Torres, who along with co-chef Kyle Schrage is behind Edgewater’s Beard & Belly. For their Hamburger Hop burger, they did a version of one they have at their gastropub that includes onion jam, roasted serrano, housemade awesome sauce, and cheddar cheese. “It’s a real big one just like me,” says Torres.

For her first-time entry, chef Tigist Reda delved into the spices and flavors she often uses at Demera Ethiopian Restaurant but ones that are rarely found in a burger. That included berbere-seasoned onion jam, cardamom, and mitmita (a heat-forward Ethiopian spice blend) along with Angus beef steakburger, Kerrygold Dubliner, and a Turano French brioche bun.

While Reda didn’t receive an award at Hamburger Hop, her burger was already a big winner. “My son was the first judge at home, and he gave it a thumbs up,” she says. “He’s a very tough critic.”