Not sure how to shave properly? Don’t worry, you’re not alone. Cleaning yourself up with a razor seems like a lost art these days. Unless they’re in the Marines or play for the Yankees, most guys have grown cozy with beards or perma-stubble. And while that’s actually a rather positive development—a little scruff looks good!—few things feel as good as a close shave. When you do need to be fresh faced—for an important event or when you just want to feel extra polished—you’ll need a proper shaving regimen. (And no, we don’t mean the kind of shave you can get with an electric razor.)
So of you need a refresher on how to shave, or if it’s your very first time (welcome), we put together a step-by-step guide. It’s the surest way to prevent nicks, cuts, razor burn, as well as bumps and ingrown hairs, and get a super-close, smooth shave, every time. (Even if “every time” is twice a year.)
1. Trim Down to a Stubble
Don’t pull out that razor just yet: If you’ve got anything longer than a few days’ worth of growth, you’ll need to trim it down first. Yes, the best razors can mow through a week or two of stubble, but you’ll experience a lot of razor drag in the process, risking irritation and inconsistent smoothness. Instead, pull out your handy beard trimmer and buzz your fuzz down to a “1” on your guard’s head setting—or a “2” at most, if you need a little more of a visual aid while shaving.
2. Gently cleanse with warm water
Now that you’ve gotten the excess growth out of the way, your shave needs to start with a fresh canvas. Washing your face at the start will rinse away any excess oil, sweat, and grime that may have accumulated, as well as any skincare products you’re currently sporting. Choose a gentle cleanser without any harsh active ingredients, so that you don’t agitate the skin before the shaving even begins. The warm water also opens your pores, which essentially allows them to breathe more easily and expunge anything trapped inside. It softens the skin and stubble, too, to prevent razor bumps and ingrown hairs.
3. Use a scrub to smooth the skin
A physical scrub will lift dead skin cells away from the skin, preventing razor drag and clogged pores. You’ll get a smoother, closer shave, plus will enjoy the skin-smoothing effects of exfoliation. Don’t go too rough with the rubbing, though, since you are about to drag a sharp razor over your skin.
A gentle physical scrub will exfoliate dead skin cells away from the face, preventing razor drag and clogged pores. You’ll get a smoother, closer shave as a result. Don’t go too rough with the rubbing, though, since you are about to drag a sharp razor over your skin. (Better yet, if you regularly exfoliate with scrubs or chemical exfoliants, you can skip this step when it comes to shave day.)
4. Use a pre-shave oil to prep skin and hair
A pre-shave oil creates a thin, virtually invisible protective layer over top the skin. It’s just present enough to help the razor glide smoothly over skin, and won’t compromise the proximity of the shave, either. This oil also helps soften whiskers and nourish the skin to ensure fewer side effects moving ahead. Apply it to dried skin, after using a clean towel to pat away the water from cleansing and scrubbing.
5. Apply shaving cream in an upward motion
When you apply shave cream, do so in an upward motion, which helps lift the hairs up and away from the face. That’ll make them easier to catch in the razor, resulting in a smoother, more precise shave overall. The type of shave cream or oil you use is up to you, but we do recommend something that doesn’t lather excessively—in other words, something that doesn’t totally cover up your whiskers.
6. Shave with the grain, using a clean and sharp razor
The type of razor you use is also entirely up to you. While most of us grew up on cartridge razors, it’s worth exploring safety razors as a possible option, too, especially if you are prone to ingrowns, have thick or coarse facial hair, or are particularly sensitive to blades.
When you shave, be sure to go in the direction that your hair moves. That is to say: Shave in the direction you can run your hand over your face smoothly, rather than feeling the friction of resistance. You might need to inspect the hairs before trimming them down prior to the shave, in case you aren’t sure about your specific growth patterns.
If you shave forward in this way (also known as shaving with the grain), then you reduce your chances of ingrown hairs and red bumps due to trapped hairs furled under the surface of the skin. Technically, shaving against the grain provides a slightly closer shave, but we wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re certain you won’t get ingrowns.
Adam Hurly
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