Retinol can transform your skin – here’s your simple guide to finding the right one

Retinol for acne

“Retinol is amazing for skin that is congested or prone to acne because it removes bacteria from pores and reduces oil production,” says Dr Alexandrides.

Retinol for acne scars

Acne scars develop as a result of injury to the skin and the body’s natural wound-healing response, which can sometimes lead to uneven texture and pink or dark spots on the skin. Retinol and retinoids speed up cell renewal and kickstart collagen production to improve the look of indentations and discolouration.

Retinol for pigmentation

Those dark, clover-shaped patches on your skin are the result of excess melanin (pigment) building up on your skin as a result of sun damage or inflammation. “We know that retinol slows down the production of melanin so it’s good for pigmentation,” notes Dr Alexandrides.

Retinol for wrinkles

Our skin changes its behaviour with age. The rate at which fresh skin cells bubble up to the surface slows down; skin struggles to hold onto moisture, and elastin and collagen – the springs and stuffing of your skin – start to break down. “Retinol is the best thing as it gives back to the skin, making it thicker and firmer,” Dr Alexandrides adds.

Which retinoid is right for me?

When it comes to retinoids, there are three things to bear in mind. The form (eg retinol vs retinol esters), the concentration and the delivery method.

Tretinoin: A powerful retinoid prescribed by dermatologists for acne, pigmentation and signs of ageing. It is about 20 times more powerful than retinol and contains retinoic acid, so unlike over-the-counter retinoids, it doesn’t need to be converted to retinoic acid through a reaction within the skin.

Retinal/Retinaldehyde: The second most potent retinoid. Retinaldehyde is only one step away from being retinoic acid, says Dr Bunting, and it delivers the same anti-aging benefits as retinol but in a faster (up to 11 times) and less irritating way. Retinal is also the only form of vitamin A with antibacterial properties, making it perfect for oily or blemish-prone complexions. As one of the newest retinoids on the market, it is less widely available but Medik8 Crystal Retinal is a good option for this ingredient and is available in a series of 5 progressive strengths.

Retinol: The reason that retinol is often used as a blanket term for retinoids is that it is the most well-known and commonly available in a variety of strengths and over-the-counter products. “It takes two steps for retinol to become converted to retinoic acid,” says Dr Bunting. “With each step you lose potency, so it’s a gentler animal compared to tretinoin.” Although less potent than prescription retinoids, retinol is known to boost collagen production and even out skin tone. In general, if you’re using a retinol, you want to start off at between 0.1 and 0.2% strength and build up to 1% if your skin can tolerate it.

Retinyl Esters (retinyl palmitate): A very mild retinoid, it’s ideal for those with sensitive skin or retinol beginners.

The concentration of retinoid will determine how effective your product is. “The general rule of thumb is to start with the lowest percentage, and then work your way up and make sure your skin becomes accustomed to it,” Dr Ewoma advises. “After a while, (maybe weeks, or months), you’ll get to a point where you can’t really see a difference with your skin, the product will still be working, but now it’s time to move to something stronger to see the increased benefit.”