This Spring 2023 haute couture shows have been heavily inspired by animals, myths and surrealism. Chanel is taking a more subtle approach than, say, Schiaparelli‘s faux-taxidermy, with its latest collection by Virginia Viard.
Among large plywood animal sculptures by French artist Xavier Veilhan inspired by ones once displayed at Coco Chanel’s apartment, models emerged in new riffs on the tweed sets, pin-tucked blouses, dress coats and capes the house is known for. A few looks — like a high-neck, double-breasted, flared-waist jacket and a series of top hats and bow ties — are reminiscent of the wardrobe a high-fashion ring leader, to fit with the mythical bestiary theme. However, the main takeaway from the Spring 2023 collection is Chanel’s endorsement of the mini skirt.
Just when you thought the Miu Miu mini fad was waning, Viard confirms the silhouette’s staying power: With just enough flounce, Chanel’s haute couture skirts give each look a youthful, gamine feel. Other highlights from the collection include ankle-grazing floral dresses, beautiful brocade gowns and a hand-beaded corgi on a bouclé tweed jacket.
The French house will inevitably be in the spotlight a lot more than normal this year, with the upcoming Costume Institute exhibit and Met Gala honoring the late Karl Lagerfeld, followed by a major Coco Chanel retrospective at the V&A in London in September.
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See the full Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2023 collection, below.
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Angela Wei
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