NY hidden dining gems: Louie’s Pizzeria’s grandma pie is one of the best in NYC

A little over a year ago, Queens pizzeria owner Louie Suljovic and his father, Cazim, were stabbed while trying to stop a robbery in front of their store, Louie’s. However, long before they made headlines for their bravery, Louie’s was best known by Elmhurst denizens for their incredible pizza and house-made Italian cuisine.

Louie’s is situated at the confluence of Jackson Heights, Woodside, and Elmhurst, where eats from all over the globe can be found along Roosevelt Avenue. Aromas of Ecuadorian street food, Tibetan momos and Colombian arepas may call your name. With food this diverse, pizza might seem too safe of a choice. But passing up Louie’s would be a mistake.

It’s the sort of classic, old-school New York pizzeria that seems to be dying out in place of $10 slices in gentrified neighborhoods. With an unassuming storefront, the 15-year old restaurant is the epitome of no-frills. If you’re stuck on what to order, know that their grandma slice is one of the best in any borough.

Maybe it’s the tang of the marinara or the stringy pull of the mozzarella, or perhaps it’s the passion and pride put into each pie made fresh in-house by Louie and his loyal staff. The pizza menu includes all the classic toppings and combinations, with personal pizzas starting at $7 and generous family-size pies ranging from $12 for plain cheese to $22 for the specialty and grandma pies.

The pizza alone is worth the trek out on the 7 train, but once you meet Louie, you’ll want to become a regular. His no-BS attitude is somehow endearing as he navigates the kitchen like he owns the place because — spoiler alert — he does.

Far from just a pizzeria, their house-made pasta has the unmistakable chew that separates the real deal from a box of Barilla. Opt for the agnolotti, generously stuffed with ricotta and spinach, tossed in a heaping amount of creamy pesto sauce.

Expect leftovers — the portions are astronomical, while the prices are next-to-nothing. If you’re a gluten-free diner, Louie says they have something for you, too. “We got steak; that’s gluten-free,” he says with a smirk.

Aside from its gluten-free ribeye, the entrée menu also includes chicken or veal marsala and salmon. Each is served with vegetables or a pasta substitution for a $1.50 surcharge, with base prices ranging from $11-$18.

Louie’s is decked out in what seems like random art pieces, but each holds a special meaning for the owner’s family. Find two hand-drawn Popeyes on the back of the Pepsi fridge, which Louie says is a testament to his dad, who embodies Popeye. A large painting of a European coastal town hangs over the plastic-covered dining tables. While at first glance you might think it was taken in Positano or Puglia, it’s a picture of Ulcinj, Montenegro, where the Suljovic family comes from.

What simply cannot be missed is the sign made by supporters after Louie and Cazim were attacked, reading “Not All Superheroes Wear Capes,” with the “P” in “Superheroes” shaped, appropriately, like a slice.

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After such a traumatic occurrence, it would be understandable for a business to throw in the towel. However, Louie still works 90 hours a week and, as a born-and-raised New Yorker, he doesn’t plan on going anywhere.

Address: 8134 Baxter Ave #1, Queens, NY 11373

Phone: (718) 440-9346

Price range: heroes $7-$10; full-size pizzas $11 to $22; pasta dishes $9 to $12; entrees $11-18

Hours: Mon-Thu 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Fri-Sat 11 a.m to 11 p.m. (closed Sun)

No reservations; dine-in, takeout and delivery available by phone

Kaitlyn Rosati is a New York City-based food and travel journalist. She is constantly on the hunt to find the city’s best hidden gems, allowing New Yorkers to travel far without ever leaving the boroughs. Have a suggestion for a great hidden dining gem in your neighborhood? Reach out to Kaitlyn with your recommendations at [email protected].