After a sandy runway on a Hawai’ian beach and through serpentine walk through giant mounds of Camargue salt, Jacquemus finally returned to Paris for Spring 2023.
Less than 24 hours before, Simon Porte Jacquemus teased on Instagram that the “Le Raphia” show, as it’s titled, would be his very last one. You might’ve been alarmed if you didn’t swipe right: There was a second slide, clarifying that it would be the last… “of the year.”
Unveiled on Dec. 12 just outside of the French capital, the designer let his 5.1 million followers into his brand’s vision for Spring 2023. As the raffia pines rained down from the ceiling onto the catwalk, the show opened with a self-reference: an asymmetrical blazer dress styled with a large, billowing hat — very much similar to looks from the Spring 2017 collection.
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“Le Raphia” is as playful and utterly dreamy as past lines that have made Jacquemus such a sought-after brand, chock full of embroidered sheer numbers, ruffle crop tops with diagonal cutouts, ultra-tiny skirts (and peek-a-boo strappy bikinis underneath). The early aughts revival continues through many low-rise bottoms, high-low skirts, peplum blouses and capris. Other stand-outs included sleek cropped blazers, paired with high-waisted trousers.
As the name suggests, the 54-piece line features a range of pieces made from straw-like raffia fibers: woven button-ups, fitted blazers, gorpcore vests. The pièce de résistance is an all-over statement straw coat that will surely be spotted on Dua Lipa soon.
This season, Jacquemus swaps out its infamous Le Chiquito with maxi fuzzy totes and raffia handbags. Face-covering bucket straw hats, platform clogs and larger-than-life floral earrings complete the vacation fantasy.
See Jacquemus’ complete “Le Raphia” collection in the gallery below.
Photo: Courtesy of Jacquemus
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India Roby
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