Let’s start with the price: $7 or $8 for a legit burrito. If you’re famished, go ahead and order two. Even if you’re not, you’ll be tempted: These burritos are far from the city’s largest, but they might be dollar-for-dollar the tastiest. As you wait inside the restaurant, ogle their huge mural of Chihuahua. It’s the largest of Mexico’s states, landlocked against New Mexico and much of Texas, and its terrain, like Testal’s cuisine, is Mex with a dash of Tex — peppers, beef, pork and house-made flour tortillas. Where Testal excels is in the direct delivery of these strong flavors. The taco menu is highly disciplined, with only three options: carne asada, birria and adobada. The burritos branch out into ground beef, chicharrones, chile relleno and rajas (a creamy mix of onions and shredded poblanos). They offer vegan options and such. Fine. Ultimately, this table belongs to the carnivores. Once you sit down, the birria has a tendency to disappear like a vapor. And the sublime Colorado burrito, with its mix of brick-red sauce, potatoes and pork, is a most convincing argument against cooking at home.
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