Courtesy of Erik Meadows Photography
Branden Holte grew up in Atlanta knowing McKendrick’s Steak House as one of those restaurant names that carried weight. Now, after more than two decades in kitchens like Kyma, Local Three Kitchen & Bar, and Warhorse Atlanta, Holte is returning to McKendrick’s as its new executive chef.
What brought him there wasn’t a mandate to overhaul a 30-year institution. It was the chance for more creative freedom, the opportunity to work with operating partner Anthony Casiello, and an immediate connection with owner Claudia McKendrick over a shared belief in guest-first hospitality. Holte says the work ahead will be gradual: refining recipes, bringing in more local farmers and purveyors, and adding house-made breads, modern sauces, and seasonal touches without disturbing the dishes and traditions longtime guests expect. We spoke with him to learn more.
Courtesy of Erik Meadows Photography
What attracted you to McKendrick’s? I was looking for a change. I’m familiar with McKendrick’s, having grown up in Atlanta. Being around for 30 years shows the owners are willing to put in the work, the time, and adapt.
Anthony and I had worked together at Local Three. He was looking for a chef, so I sat down with Claudia McKendrick, and what was supposed to be a lunch meeting turned into a three-hour meet-and-greet. We see hospitality the same way. The concept of saying no to a guest makes no sense to me if what they’re asking for is doable.
What’s the biggest challenge of taking over a kitchen with such a long legacy? The immediate challenge is resistance to change. We have more educated guests in the industry now, and it’s about getting everyone on board. It’s about blending in my style and creativity while still holding fast to the traditions. If I change the whole menu overnight, I’ll lose guests. It must be baby steps—addressing the biggest changes that need the most attention first, while keeping the core of McKendrick’s intact.
How will you evolve the menu? The format is staying the same. We’re keeping most of the cuts. I’d like to lean toward a more modern take, with descriptions that give guests a better understanding of what they’re ordering instead of just saying “okra.” On day one, I changed the béarnaise recipe. We’ve played with the Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, and au jus.
There was a lot of Scottish salmon on the menu before, which is farm-raised. We’re moving to Ora King salmon, a sustainable product from New Zealand that’s better for the environment in the way it’s raised and better for human consumption in terms of omega-3s.
We’re also playing around with specials and bringing in more local farmers and purveyors, including speckled trout from Enchanted Springs and mushrooms from Horti-Culture in Gwinnett County.
Courtesy of Erik Meadows Photography
How will your background in whole-animal butchery show up at a classic steakhouse? This is the fourth steakhouse I’ve worked at in Atlanta. Whole animal doesn’t necessarily make sense in a steakhouse, but we’ll work on some primal butchery and cutting steaks in house. There has already been conversation about bringing in a bone-in program, with Delmonico on the wood grill for specials. A5 will be fabricated in house, and ribeye, too. We’re also playing with fish dip–type products, like fish rillettes, for the Rush Hour menu.
Which menu items will stay the same? The crab cake recipe is solid. I have no intention of changing it. The McKendrick’s salad can’t change—it’s been the same for 30 years. The Caesar is solid; same goes for the iceberg wedge and the cocktail and Louie sauce recipes. The French onion soup will stay, too. The creamed corn and creamed spinach will also stay. If it’s not broken, don’t fix it.
How soon will these changes take effect? Minor things like the béarnaise, sides, and presentation are happening now. The longer haul is 10 to 14 days, optimistically. Lunch changes will happen first, with the dinner menu right behind that. The goal is to have it all cleaned up by early August.
At lunch, a fried chicken sandwich will replace the grilled chicken sandwich. We’ll add steak frites with au poivre, update the wild mushroom risotto to use local mushrooms, and add a mushroom and Gruyère burger. We’ll add a chop or two to the chops and steaks section, and rotate the burrata based on the season, with ingredients like figs, apples, pears, peaches, and squash.
Desserts will get some love between now and October. I don’t want my cooks to get overloaded with too many changes too fast. My wife Lauren Holte is a pastry chef at Union Hill Grill in Canton, so I can call on her to help give us a little love when we need it.
We’re also doing research and development for bread. Focaccia is starting next week for bread service, and the walnut bread is already made in house. At Misty Mountain Bakeshop in North Carolina, which I owned with my wife, we made fougasse. Eventually, I’d like to get to making our own brioche or potato buns for burgers.
Are you hoping to attract a new generation of diners, and if so, how? For sure. I think that’s why Anthony and Claudia wanted to bring me on; to stay true to the traditions while introducing some modern, creative culinary trends. We’ll lean into chimichurri, chermoula, and steak sauces that are more innovative.
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Carly Cooper
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