Rick Doody is just days away from unveiling his newest restaurant, and like all of his projects, this latest one was done with no shortcuts — and it shows. Over the past year and a half, Doody and his team have transformed the former Bell & Flower/Rick’s Cafe property in Chagrin Falls into a breezy, elegant and easygoing French bistro. The name, Lola’s Bistro (86 N. Main St.), is an homage to the owner’s beloved Bernedoodle.
The transformation from Bell & Flower to Lola’s Bistro is extraordinary. What was once an alley patio on the north side of the building has been converted to interior space, blending seamlessly with the main dining room. A massive skylight floods the room with natural light. The new space connects to the original footprint through an expansive brick opening. There, a gorgeous wooden bar flanked by posh banquettes stretch to the rear. A dining room at the front of the restaurant features accordion-style windows that open to the sidewalk outside.
When Lola’s Bistro opens sometime next week, it will join JoJo’s Bar, Bar Fuoco and 17 River Grille, Doody’s other Chagrin Falls eateries. Doody also operates, under the NCR Ventures umbrella, Bar Italia, Cedar Creek Grille and the Lakehouse. But unlike all of those concepts, this one is fearlessly French.
“The company wanted to do a French concept but we wanted to make it more laid back like a bistro and not a brasserie,” says GM Joseph Deininger.
Culinary Director Michael Dei Maggi, along with executive chef Michael Herschman, have crafted a menu filled with approachable, familiar French classics that cover all the bases. Diners can start with onion soup gratinee, escargot with garlic butter and steak tartare before moving on to Nicoise or Lyonnaise salads.
For the main event, there is trout amandine, chicken cordon bleu, coq au vin and braised short rib with pomme puree. Steak frites stars a grilled bavette and fries with a choice of sauces such as Béarnaise, horseradish cream or fois bordelaise. There is also a lobster frites that swaps the red meat for a split lobster.
Plats du jour glide from beef bourguignon to cassoulet to whole roast chicken to lobster thermidor and finally, on Friday, to bouillabaisse.
Despite its French pedigree, Lola’s is a neighborhood-friendly bar and restaurant, stresses management.
“We want this to be very walk-in friendly,” says Tim Davin, Director of Operations.
To that end, only half of the 150 seats will be open to reservations with the balance being set aside for walk-in guests. When seated, those guests will be presented not with a round of Lake Erie’s finest, but with a boozy amuse bouche.
“We’re not going to greet diners with water,” adds Davin, “we’re going to greet them with tiny tinis.”
Presented on a tray, those 1.5-ounce, “dirty and bruised” vodka martinis are served up but they’re not free, he clarifies.
Those wee bevvies are joined by other classic cocktails, wines by the glass and bottle, and a handful of beers and ciders.
When it opens next week (follow the restaurant’s social media for up-to-date info), Lola’s Bistro will serve lunch and dinner from the start, with weekend brunch to join in the near future.
Subscribe to Cleveland Scene newsletters.
Follow us: Google News | NewsBreak | Reddit | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter
Douglas Trattner
Source link
