First Look: Anthology Cask House, Opening in Ohio City Friday, August 14

It’s been three months since Shaun and JoLyn Yasaki of Noble Beast Brewing announced that they were expanding into the former Bookhouse Brewing site in Ohio City. On Friday, August 14th they will open the doors to Anthology Cask House (1526 W. 25th St., 216-237-0986), a sanctuary for lovers of fine European beers, English ales and rare gems from around the world.

The stars of the show are bound to be the cask ales, which are brewed onsite by Yasaki and brewer Logan Buckley-Neff and dispensed with care, patience and a little dose of ceremony.

“This has been such a learning curve: figuring out how to build it, figuring out how to brew it, condition it, serve it,” Yasaki explains. “But it’s fun because it’s all so new and exciting.”

Unlike conventional draft beer, which is pushed from keg to tap by carbon dioxide, cask ale is drawn by hand using an old-fashioned beer engine. Firkins of naturally-carbonated ale sit in a dedicated cooler set at “cellar temperature,” roughly 55 degrees. Each pint requires a series of pulls to fill the glass. Those brews flow through a graceful swan-like neck and, at the end, a sparkler, which creates a dense, creamy head.

“Every brewery had one of these 15 years ago, and they’ve all been ripped out,” Yasaki laments.

On opening day, those four engines will dispense an English golden ale, English bitter, dry stout and a funky Belgian lambic.

The other 16 taps are dedicated to imported beers from England, Germany, Belgium and the Czech Republic. Only a few hail from the United States. The styles represented include helles, pils, bitter, amber, dark ale, Kolsch, saison, cider and radler.

A display cooler is stocked with a compelling selection of European imports sold by the can or bottle. While guests can peruse the printed list, it’s fun to shop the cooler and examine the labels.

“I haven’t had most of these and I can’t wait to try them,” says Yasaki. “That’s what got me excited about craft beer 20 years ago. There was so much exploration, trying new things… That’s kind of gone by the wayside.”

“There’s been such a shift over the past 10, 15 years or so towards hyper-local, which is wonderful, but we wanted to bring that back,” adds JoLyn.

Those beers are properly served in style-appropriate glassware, such as an aged Belgian lambic slowly decanted from a wicker basket to prevent the transfer of sediment.

“That’s part of the experience,” says GM Jeff Draeger. “A lot of people haven’t seen most of these beers – or haven’t seen them for a while – so we want to give them the proper experience. That gives the staff the opportunity to explain the glassware, the pour, why we’re doing things a certain way.”

Guests will notice an enhanced beverage program, with more wines, spirits and cocktails, including a robust NA selection.

Anthology chef James Redford has worked with Little Cloud chef David Rutherford to create a menu just for the pub. Items such as meat and cheese boards, English onion soup, braised beef sandwiches and beef pasties can be ordered and enjoyed right from one’s table. Weekend food service will start at 11 a.m.

There has been a gentle remodel of the former Bookhouse space that swapped the literature-themed décor for more of an English pub vibe. There are now TVs throughout, but you wouldn’t know it unless the framed images were switched from art mode to live action. The patio has been opened up and refreshed with new furniture, lighting and plantings.

With Anthology Cask House, the Yasakis are keeping a little bit of Cleveland brewing history alive in Ohio City.

“This was the site of Baehr Brewing from 1866, so 170 years of brewing history in this spot right here,” says Shaun.