Waters of Wilmington: Dive deep into one of North Carolina’s coolest towns

Wilmington, North Carolina

Photo by Samule Cruz

Bordered by the Cape Fear River on one side and breezy beaches on the other, Wilmington is undoubtedly a refreshing destination. It’s known for its acclaimed surfing and scuba-diving, but you’ll quickly find that it teems with other diversions to discover, both in the water and on dry land.

Wilmington, like many Atlantic seaside towns, emerged as an important port city during the colonial era. Its position on the river made it a military stronghold during the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, and British and Union troops occupied it at various times throughout the years. Still, plenty of historic Georgian and Victorian architecture remains intact, lending downtown Wilmington loads of historical charm. The riverfront district is its heart and soul, with the bustling restaurant- and shop-lined Riverwalk flanking nearly two miles of shoreline.

Follow the central waterway down to the ocean, where an abundance of activities, such as stand up paddleboarding and sailing, await. Those seaside pleasures and plenty of in-town fun make this destination shine. Here’s our guide to experiencing Wilmington’s water-based wonders.

Wrightsville Beach

Photo by Wentao Liu

Hit the Beach
Choose your own seaside adventure

With 31 combined miles of shoreline, Wilmington’s three main beaches—Wrightsville, Carolina, and Kure—are part of the Cape Fear barrier islands between the Atlantic Ocean and the Cape Fear river. With that expanse comes a variety of vibes, from laid-back to sporty to retro.

Just across the causeway from Wilmington, a roughly 20-minute drive from the historic district, is Wrightsville Beach. It features one main road lined with pastel, multilevel vacation rentals and oceanfront resorts. Visitors often come for the watersports—surfing, paddleboarding, kiteboarding, sailing, and fishing, to name a few—but you’re just as likely to find families simply building sandcastles and sunbathing. Head down to Johnnie Mercers Fishing Pier, which juts more than 1,200 feet into the Atlantic, to watch surfers hang ten and fishers reel in their catch, or stroll to the beach’s north end for one of Wrightsville’s hidden gems: a mysterious mailbox. Flip through the journals kept inside to find heartfelt messages left by fellow beachgoers.

Fort Fisher State Recreation Area

Courtesy of Wilmington and Beaches CVB

Farther south, you’ll find Carolina Beach, known for its upbeat, family-friendly atmosphere and seaside boardwalk dating back to 1887—one of only a few historic ones remaining in the country. Like Wrightsville, Carolina Beach is known as a surfing haven. Beginners can take lessons through the renowned Tony Silvagni Surf School, helmed by Silvagni himself, a professional surfer with international acclaim. Back on the boardwalk, shop for kitschy souvenirs, cool off with an ice cream cone, and relax on a swinging chair overlooking the sand dunes. Come nightfall, it lights up with old-fashioned fun, including carnival games and amusement rides.

North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher

Courtesy of Wilmington and Beaches CVB

If peace and quiet are what you crave, dog-friendly Kure Beach is an unspoiled escape. The Fort Fisher State Recreation Area offers six miles of protected shoreline between the ocean and the river; a two-mile trail winds through wild marshlands (and past a WWII bunker), ending at an observation deck with views of Zeke’s Island, a shorebird haven. The North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher is just steps from the park.

On Dry Land: Destination Dining

Italian and Spanish influences meet North Carolina and New Orleans flair at downtown’s Olivero. And yes, those seemingly disparate flavor profiles do mesh well—so well that the dinner-only spot was named one of USA Today’s best restaurants of 2025. The menu changes seasonally, but expect dishes like sweet and savory beignets topped with mortadella and Calabrian hot honey and croquetas with North Carolina crab and basil pesto.

Open since 1939, Britts Donut Shop is a Carolina Beach staple during the warm-weather months. There’s only one thing on the menu—homemade glazed doughnuts—but you can order a coffee to enjoy with them. Stake out a spot in line before it opens at 8:30 a.m., and bring cash (though you won’t need much, as each doughnut rings up to just $1.25).

Seafood tower at Seabird

Photo by Baxton Miller

With 2025 James Beard Outstanding Chef semifinalist Dean Neff at the helm, Seabird sets the standard for seasonal ocean fare within a light, nautical-inspired downtown space. Go big with the seafood tower, which includes snow crab, harissa-smoked tuna, and deviled eggs topped with North Carolina Osetra caviar.

Oceanic at the Crystal Pier has an expansive deck overlooking Wrightsville Beach’s sandy shores. You can’t go wrong with the Carolina crab dip, tuna poke nachos, or the Calabash-style (lightly battered and fried) seafood platter.

The owners of Wilmington’s Rx Chicken & Oysters take sea-to-table seriously: They farm their own oysters and catch or spear fish to serve on dry land. Start with a dozen raw and follow it with a plate of perfectly crispy fried chicken served with a housemade hot-honey sauce you’ll want to drizzle on every bite.

The espresso-martini craze shows no signs of waning, and that’s especially apparent when you look at the packed firepits at Wilmington’s Concorde Espresso Bar. The unique concept opens at 7:30 a.m. each day for coffee service, then adds cocktails to the lineup starting at 11 a.m. By nightfall, servers are making the rounds with trays full of espresso-martini flights, which feature a classic, a mocha-inspired variety, and another made with cookie butter.

Paddle Away
Float your boat (or kayak)

There’s no shortage of spots to drop in your canoe, kayak, or stand-up paddleboard (SUP) around Wilmington and its beaches. To see the city from a fresh perspective, rent your watercraft of choice from Mahanaim Adventures and take to the Cape Fear River for views of the bustling Riverwalk on one side and the enormous Battleship North Carolina on the other. Another option on the edge of the city is the 250-acre Greenfield Park, where you can rent equipment and navigate the expansive urban lake and cypress swamp.

Kayak trips double as treasure hunts at Coconut Jack’s Black Water & Fossil Adventures in Carolina Beach. Paddle out to Sharks Tooth Island, and with the help of an experienced guide, search for shark teeth, shards of Native American pottery, glass from centuries-old pirate beer bottles, and—if you’re really lucky—massive megalodon teeth. Some material on the island dates back 40 million years, and you never leave empty-handed.

Riverwalk

Courtesy Visit NC

Don’t miss the chance to stand-up paddle at Wrightsville Beach, regularly named one of the best SUP hubs in the country. The variety of settings—from open ocean to tidal creeks—and calm summer wind patterns make it a popular spot for the sport. Wrightsville SUP offers equipment rentals (including LED-lit night paddles), yoga SUP classes, and social “SUP and Sip” events.

Don’t Miss the Boat
Let the experts be your guide

Wilmington Water Tours

Courtesy Wilmington and Beaches CVB

Sit back, relax, and let someone else take over the navigation on one of Wilmington’s many water-based tours. Embark on a relaxing Cape Fear River cruise with Wilmington Water Tours, departing every hour from the Riverwalk. Order a drink from the full bar and listen as the captain shares information about the area’s history and ecology.

Shamrock Sailing

Courtesy Shamrock Sailing

Wrightsville Beach Scenic Tours offers several boating options, including a birding tour that takes visitors on a cruise along the Intracoastal Waterway and inlet passages with views of the barrier islands and Wrightsville Beach (plus some of its jaw-dropping shoreline properties, such as Sandra Bullock’s former home). Captain Joe, an experienced naturalist, will help you spot black skimmers, common terns, and American oystercatchers. If sailing is more your speed, set out on Shamrock Sailing’s classic 42-foot yawl with Captain Jim, who has nearly 30 years of experience navigating the local waters and will happily share his knowledge of coastal ecology and local conservation efforts.

On Dry Land: Pristine Parks

Trade views of sand and surf for those of blossoms and butterflies at Wrightsville Beach’s Airlie Gardens. The 67-acre paradise is resplendent with hydrangeas in summer, but its 400-year-old namesake live oak, remarkable 17-square-foot glass-bottle chapel, and glistening lake teeming with wildlife make it a gorgeous destination any time of year.

Airlie Gardens

Courtesy of Wilmington and Beaches CVB

Fun fact: Venus flytraps only grow in the wild within a 70-mile radius of Wilmington. Check out the fascinating native plant and other carnivorous species, including sundews and pitcher plants, at Carolina Beach State Park. Join a ranger for a free guided tour on Saturday mornings (except in winter) to learn more about these incredible plants and watch them in their natural habitat.

Dive Deep
Explore the ocean depths

Go below the surface to discover even more of Wilmington’s wonders, including ancient fossils, shark teeth aplenty, and 19th-century shipwrecks (which helped saddle the North Carolina coast with the nickname “Graveyard of the Atlantic”).

Carolina Beach Scuba

Courtesy Carolina Beach Scuba

Wrightsville Beach is home to a handful of explorable shipwrecks, including the Normannia, a Danish freighter that fell victim to rough seas in 1924, and the John D. Gill vessel, which a German U-boat sank in 1942. Each wreck has become an underwater oasis for marine life, including sand tiger sharks and schools of tropical fish. Charter a dive boat with Carolina Beach Scuba or Aquatic Safaris Scuba Center to explore both sites, along with more than a dozen others.

Aquatic Safaris Seafood Center

Courtesy Aquatic Safaris Seafood Center

The Condor in Kure Beach is one of the state’s best-preserved shipwrecks, making it a perfect spot for divers and snorkelers to explore. The Civil War ship, a steamer built for blockade running, ran aground on her maiden voyage in 1864 but has remained mostly intact, resting in 25 feet of shallow water 700 yards off the beach. You’ll have to explore this one on your own, but the North Carolina Office of State Archaeology provides dive slates with site maps that can be taken below the surface, and a number of local outfitters offer equipment rentals.

Climb Aboard
Immerse yourself in military history

Battleship North Carolina

Courtesy Wilmington and Beaches CVB

With its gargantuan silhouette visible from downtown Wilmington and the Riverwalk, the Battleship North Carolina dominates the horizon. Moored in the Cape Fear River, the ship earned 15 battle stars, participating in every major naval offensive in the Pacific during World War II. Explore its nine maze-like decks—from the bottom of the hull to the top of the fire-control tower—including the crew’s quarters, gunpowder-handling room, bakery, and laundry rooms. Sailors’ transcribed memories allow you to step into the personal experiences of the more than 2,000 naval crewmembers who called the ship home throughout its six-year tour of duty.

On Dry Land: Splashy Stays

You’re not quite on dry land when you’re staying at the Cove Riverwalk Villas in downtown Wilmington—you’re bunking down on a stationary, two-story houseboat docked in the Cape Fear River. Each of the 35 options has a different design (from the pretty-in-pink Harmony to the bright and sunny Amalfi), but all include upper decks with comfy lounge furniture, perfect for unwinding after a day exploring.

Cove Riverwalk Villas

Courtesy Cove Riverwalk Villas

Formerly known as the Blockade Runner, the completely renovated Trailborn Surf & Sound in Wrightsville Beach opened under new ownership this spring. With one side facing the ocean and one facing the sound, the adventure-focused resort with a coastal-chic vibe offers excursions (sunset cruises and cocktail sails), experiences (surf lessons, yoga classes), and equipment rentals for all types of water-based fun.

Check into Michelin Key property Arrive Wilmington for a chic boutique stay in the heart of the commercial district. The 34 light and airy guest rooms feature pops of pale pink and turquoise, floral patterns, and gold fixtures. Head to the sunny gazebo bar in the courtyard garden for snacks, spritzes, and bocce ball.

This article appears in the Summer 2025 issue of Southbound.

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Emma Hunt

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