Tag: Spring Fashion

In a diplomatic turn, designers have extended the lifespan of some noteworthy F/W 22 trends, continuing their exploration of them in 2023, ensuring we get adequate wear out of the pieces in which we’ve already invested. Elevated basics are one such trend. Last season, there was a clear ’90s directive when it came to minimalism, with logo vests, low-slung trousers, and tube dresses being hero items. Now, things have been pared back even further; sure, Y2K maxi skirts and oversized suiting are very much a thing, as witnessed on the runways of Peter Do and Roksanda, respectively, but the silhouettes are cleaner, and the color palette looks more expensive; think shades of teal, camel, and navy. 

“Spring/summer 2023 marks the reinstatement of simplicity and everyday dressing to our wardrobes, with brands such as Bottega Veneta, Valentino, The Row, and Ferragamo embracing simplicity across their collections and are clearly anticipating that customers will be adopting this approach to dressing. The mood also translated into non-apparel, including wrist-length gloves, ruched socks with simple plimsolls, and Loewe’s pared-back logo tote, leading us to back this style with almost 500 units across eight variations,” says Libby Page, market director, and style expert at Net-a-Porter.

Metallics are commonplace in autumn/winter collections, particularly as our social calendars fill up with glamorous after-dark pursuits we want to shine for. For spring, however, a surprisingly fresh range of shimmering gold and silver pieces has transformed the metallic trend into a perennial favorite. In lieu of lightweight lamé, there’s an exploration of thicker fabrications such as leather and packed-together sequins. I just know Tory Burch’s gold coat is going to be a honey trap for fashion magpies.

“Interesting metallics were a standout trend for the season, with highlights including Jil Sander’s incredible fabric developments (bouncy metallic chenille, silver sequins, and high craft techniques) as well as Christopher Kane’s metallic chainmail,” says Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear and fashion expert at MATCHESFASHION.

“In-house, we call this trend ‘Magpie Moments,’ a continuation from winter’s annual trophy dressing but less about full sequin looks and more about adding liquid shine and turning the simplest of everyday items into styles to standout in,” says Page. 

I get it. Some of the trends on this list might not translate seamlessly into everyday life (if you’re prepared to wear a completely sheer skirt to run errands in, more power to you). However, if you’re looking to invest in something you’ll genuinely get the wear out of, look no further. Between wide legs and puddle hemlines, slouchy-fit trousers were one of the biggest trends of 2022. Now, for spring 2023, the best jeans will feature these same design traits. From high-waisted dark-wash flares at Tibi to Bally’s effortless double-denim moment complete with floor-grazing lengths, looser-fit denim is resolutely where it’s at. 

“It’s no surprise that a post-lockdown world is leaning towards more relaxed silhouettes, especially when it comes to our denim choices. I spend a lot of my days on social media (for work, naturally), and the jeans styles that I’m seeing across TikTok, Instagram, and Pinterest are so relaxed they might as well be joggers. As the world’s number one fan of wide-leg trousers, I’m so happy that the grip skinny jeans had on us is finally over. Now, for the real stuff—this denim style can feel quite daunting if you’re new to it. Me? I’ll be taking styling cues from the master of jeans himself, Asake. IYKYK. And if you don’t, you’re in for a treat when you Google ‘Asake jeans’,” says Joy Ejaria, the social media editor at Who What Wear UK. 

Fashion likes to work in extremes; typically, you have the overtly oversized and the impossibly teeny tiny (and everything in between is something of a footnote). For the past few seasons, we’ve seen the latter proportion dominate—Fendi created a microscopic version of its iconic Baguette, while Jacquemus’s infamous Le Chiquito has handles bigger than its main compartment. No doubt about it, these bags are fun, but if you’re more practically wired (I know I am), then you too will laud the return of the jumbo tote, as seen at Loewe, Bottega Veneta, Chloé, and a slew of other designer heavyweights known for their arm candy. 

“Big bags have become a favorite among celebrities, and Saint Laurent’s quilted Icare tote became a trending product for the brand after it was worn by Zoë Kravitz and Hailey Bieber—searches spiked 145% in August after Bella Hadid was spotted carrying it,” says Morgane Le Caer, fashion expert, and content editor at Lyst.

Fashion’s fascination with knitwear doesn’t disappear with winter; much like the leaves on the tress and the flowers in the ground, it regenerates into something beautiful. Crochet often returns when temperatures begin to rise, only this time around, it’s less about tight purls and moss stitches and more about open, cobweb-like weave work. 

“Crochet featured in so many collections, from The Row to Gabriela Hearst and Proenza Schouler, and spoke as part of a larger and refined craftsmanship trend. We especially loved Proenza Schouler’s gold metallic crochet midi skirts, halter-neck tops, and flared trousers,” says Wiggins.  

Since attending the shows back in September, I must have looked at well over 10,000 runway images to discern the looks I’d include in our spring/summer 2023 fashion trend overview. (That’s no exaggeration, by the way; if you take 350 shows with, say, 30 models each, the number quickly racks up.) Some trends take some digging to unearth, but others? Well, they’re pretty hard to miss. Green falls into the latter category.

A subtle move on from Kelly green—a true grass green—if I had an hour to spare, I could list all the designers that included zesty shades in their collections. Instead, I’ll leave you with some more impressive numbers.”There was an average of 39,000 page views each month this year for green products on Lyst,” says Le Caer. Coincidence? There’s no such thing. 

I won’t waste your time by quoting perhaps the most famous line in fashion-themed cinematic history, but let’s just say florals are hardly revolutionary when it comes to the warmer months. At least they weren’t until designers decided to double down on the trend and give it the gusto it has long been craving for with a new take on blooms. We spotted a plethora of pretty 3D floral embellishments across plenty of collections, from Magda Butrym’s rosette choker to Loewe’s Anthuriums of epic portions. 

“For spring 2023, there was a more surrealist interpretation with standout 3D designs and runway looks embellished with floral motifs. Standouts included provocative sculptural flowers on mini and maxi dresses paired with bold leaf shoes,” says Page.

“Not a tie-dye girl yet fed up to the back teeth with ditsy florals? Then a new wave of digitally manipulated, mind-bending blurry prints will provide you with some sweet patterned relief for the coming season—they’re certainly my number one choice when it comes to adding a new, unique motif into my heavily printed repertoire,” says Hannah Almassi, editor in chief at Who What Wear UK. 

“The movement could be traced back to Jonathan Anderson’s cult-adored blur-print tube dresses from Loewe last summer—the designer kick-started a revival for formfitting trompe l’oeil and cyber prints, and the look appears to be holding strong for S/S 23. But there is also another side to this creative coin; I’ve noticed an air of bohemia for smudgy surface patterns, with some designers combining lighter-weight, billowing fabrics alongside painterly ombrés to great effect. It’s very ‘I work in the arts, darling.’” 

Gen Z calls it “indie sleaze” I call it my wardrobe when I was 17. Either way, there was an edgy sensibility to many of the spring/summer 2023 runways that, although it’s hard for me to admit, does equate to nostalgia. Think muddy hues, distressed denim, long-sleeve tops layered under grubby tees, army jackets, and chunky silver hardware. “Modern utility detailing was peppered throughout the majority of S/S 23 collections, with oversized pockets and cargo shapes spotted at Fendi, Blumarine, Miu Miu,” says Heather Gramston, style expert and head of womenswear at Browns.

“We saw the ’90s and ’00s, be that grunge or minimalism, firmly returning to fashion with denim maxi skirts, bomber jackets, and biker jackets. We have invested in nine styles from both the runway and true denim brands to scout out the perfect fit, length, and wash,” says Page.

Every buyer I have spoken to has been most excited by the many pairs of perfectly cut trousers in the spring/summer 2023 collections, which actually should hardly come as a surprise. It’s been the year of the trouser, after all, and that looks set to continue as designers have become more and more playful with their pants. From pedal pushers to wide-leg, cargos to puddle hemlines, the gang’s all here, and just in the nick of time. 

According to Le Caer, post–Fashion Month searches for trousers were up 55% on Lyst. That tells me all I need to know. 

“Nothing says springtime like white cotton. Slightly cropped embroidered blouses, loose-fitting shirts, and oversized tent dresses really do make up the DNA of my wardrobe in the warmer months. What’s so fresh about S/S 23’s version of this summer classic is that it doesn’t just come courtesy of cotton. In fact, you’ll find PVC ruffles from Batsheva, sequin suits, and Coperni’s now-iconic spray-on dress made with new innovative material, Fabrica,” says Rebecca Rhys-Evans, branded content editor at Who What Wear UK. 

“It seems this season is upping the ante when it comes to wearing whites, forging newfound design methods, and experimenting with untraditional fabrics for the season. Of course, the real challenge is not how to style a color so brilliantly simple but how to keep it clean. My advice? Stay clear of all colored foods, children, and the Central Line,” adds Rhys-Evans.

“As seen in Miu Miu’s Milan Fashion Week show, knee-length skirts are coming back,” says Le Caer. “Already embraced by the likes of Emily Ratajkowski, the formerly ‘ugly’ and difficult-to-get-right trend has benefited from the current resurgence of all things the ’90s, and searches for knee skirts have increased by 81% since January. Searches for pencil skirts, in particular, increased 168% in October, which I don’t think is any sort of accident.”

It’s been a long, long time since knee-length skirts provided any sort of competition for midis, so this might take a minute to filter into the mainstream—stay tuned.

Gucci has been playing with the whole dolly theme for a while now, but this season, there was a stark uptick in the number of collections boasting twee, ’60s-style babydoll dresses, giving the runway a playful mood.  

“Every season, there is a trend that speaks to the inner maximalist in us. While autumn gave us lurid neons, biker boots, and Y2K glamour, spring/summer 2023 presents something a little sweeter, and those with an aversion to all things ‘pretty,’ consider this your warning to look away now,” says Remy Farrell, shopping editor at Who What Wear UK.

“From Molly Goddard’s diaphanous skirts to Giambattista Valli’s embellished minis, it’s time to step into the world of the living doll, a candy-colored world of ribbons, ruffles and plenty of drama, as the fresh, new season opens with childlike joie de vivre. Simply dust off your Mary Janes and knee-high socks, and enjoy all of the petticoats and frou-frou that we ironically hated as children but cannot wait to repurpose as adults,” adds Farrell. 

There are plenty of ’90s things to take note of in the fashion space for spring, and ballet shoes just happen to be one of them. I’m always surprised at just how divisive these shoes prove to be, but make no mistake, in terms of spring/summer 2023 footwear, this is the only shoe that matters; at least, it was to designers. Thom Browne and Tod’s lean into the saccharine sweetness of pastel satin, while Simone Rocha’s rust metallic iteration presents a sleek ballet/Mary Jane flat shoe hybrid.

“Although they’ve been cropping up on runways and amongst the street style set for a few seasons now, it’s clear that, for S/S 23, ballet flats are back in a big way—and I’m okay with it. Yes, it makes sense to save these precious shoes for a day when no rain is forecast, but the elegance they lend to any outfit makes those limitations completely worth it. This season sees classic leather put on the back burner (although they’ll always be chic) in place of luxurious satin and printed fabric styles, which promise to lend their French-girl appeal to any jeans or dress outfit you’re looking to freshen up for the months ahead,” says Emily Dawes, affiliate editor at Who What Wear UK.

Sport holds a huge influence over fashion; you need only think of the tennis skirt or the cricket jumper to confirm this. However, just when I thought we’d seen every athleisure trend there was, along comes motocross. It’s hard to pinpoint where this aesthetic might have come from; avid Spotify listeners and pop-culture vultures may be familiar with Spanish singer Rosalía’s hit album Motomami, which was released in early 2022. From there, we have sightings of both Bella and Gigi Hadid in what is best described as Formula 1 apparel over the summer. Now, it’s time to grab your color-block leathers, boilersuits, and checkerboard boots and to start your engines…

If, however, the idea of a yellow all-in-one feels somewhat daunting, there is an easy way to tap into the motocross energy. “The moto jacket is on our S/S 23 wish list following the vintage-inspired options that walked the runway this season,“ says Page.

“Leather jackets are leading the nouveau grunge trend, with Masha Popova, Knwls, and Gucci bringing strong seasonal updates,” says Gramston. See? Easy!

“We saw a complete shift away from the high-octane glamour that has dominated the space for the past few seasons to a more understated approach that embraces nudity in a subtle and chic way, which was a consistent theme throughout the shows. We have seen customers’ appetite for this mood during Fashion Month, with searches for ‘sheer tops’ increasing by 600% compared to the previous month. Saint Laurent owned this trend by showing 10 revealing dresses on the runway, and Valentino paired nude bodysuits with bright pop colors. We also saw a 400% increase in searches for transparent heels during Fashion Month and have heavily backed this moment by investing in 18 see-through styles for the upcoming season,” says Page. 

With this nuanced approach to designing with translucent fabrics comes a better understanding of where to reveal and, in tandem, where to conceal. ACNE Studios’ sheer gown worn over jeans with a subtle slouch showcases just how versatile this trend can truly be. While Fe Noel’s sheer sequin maxi dress, complete with long sleeves and finished with brilliantly feathered cuffs, presents another way to interpret this idea.

“Sheer fashion dominated the trends conversations for S/S 23 as seen at Simone Rocha, Christopher Kane, Rick Owens, and Molly Goddard. We loved Molly Goddard’s romantic take on the trend, featuring her signature ruffle details on sheer orange midi dresses,” says Wiggins.

I’m going to make a bold claim: Jewelery is the most impactful way to update your look. Whatever the outfit (or season, for that matter!), jewelry presents an accessible way to make your existing wares feel more current and new for spring is a piece that will make your basic tops and shirts feel significantly fresher. Long, drop-like earrings that reached the shoulder were easily the most prevalent jewelry trend out there and came in various guises. From boho threads to polished pearls, I very much enjoyed watching these earrings flick in time to the model’s walk. 

“I’m not one for necklaces, statement rings, or wrist stacks, but earrings? Earrings I can get on board with. In my opinion, nothing sets an outfit off better than a shoulder-skimming pair. Fortunately, it was this particular accessory that so many designers used to elevate their designs for S/S 23. Whether you opt for an elegant bejeweled drop like Magda Butrym, Ralph Lauren, and Nensi Dojaka, or a more extravagant pair like those seen at Louis Vuitton or Tory Burch, it’s time to give your plain gold hoops a rest and go big for the season ahead,” says Dawes.

Last season, minis and maxis reigned supreme, but now, it would appear that designers are looking to fill the space in between, and a train is, evidently, the most fabulous way to do so. Jaws dropped when Huishan Zhang’s bubblegum shift made its way down the runway. Without a doubt, it was one of my favorite looks from the entirety of Fashion Month. 

“If there’s one dress update you consider for 2023, it’s this: a dress with a train. Yes, you read that right. Formerly reserved for brides or the red carpet, trains are big news for spring/summer thanks to designers like Bally and Victoria Beckham, who showcased everything from minis to maxis with cascading details. Choose an ice-cream shade (I was particularly taken with the pistachio at ACNE and soft orange sorbet at Giambattista Valli) and a slinky material for maximum impact before adding polished accessories. I can’t wait to dip my toe into this trend ahead of wedding season and will be choosing a style with an interesting neckline to keep things on the contemporary side,” says Poppy Nash, managing editor at Who What Wear UK.

If lime green isn’t your vibe, rest assured there was another bold hue that practically jumped off the runway and my screen, which was evident from the moment I began this lengthy research process. Striking red ensembles, where shades of saffron were styled top to toe, were present in the form of tights and tuxedos at Ferragamo, sharp tailoring at Alexander McQueen, impressive fringing at Bottega Veneta and tube dresses and leggings at Alaïa.

Clearly, these monochromatic looks made an instant impact, too. “Searches for red pieces increased by 29% on Lyst in October,” says Le Caer. 

“As someone who can clearly (not fondly) remember their first bra fitting, which resulted in the teary-eyed purchase of what could only be described at the time as ‘over-shoulder boulder holders,’ it’s surprising that I’d now find myself backing this brassiere-revealing trend. Or perhaps that’s the point! Lingerie styles for big (and small) cups have improved vastly over the past 10 years, so why not celebrate it?” says Almassi.

“Combine this design shift with the fact that we’re moving into a fifth wave of feminism where many predisposed notions and ideologies tied up with previous movements are being flipped on their head, and this is less burn-the-bra and more for-goodness-sake-what-does-it-matter-if-I-show-my-bra? Maybe it’s that I’m getting older and giving less of a damn; perhaps it’s the ongoing body confidence messaging I see on social media, or maybe it’s that we should all be allowed to wear what we want when we want. Whatever the reason, I’m into it,” adds Almassi.

Thought party season ended at the stroke of midnight on December 31? Think again! The spring/summer runways bear a striking resemblance to all of my favorite coming-of-age movies from the ’80s—Sixteen Candles, Pretty in Pink… basically, anything starring Molly Ringwald. Between frothy fabrications, high-shine lamé, lashings of leopard print, and the glorious return of the puffball hemline, this season invites you to play dress-up and not take yourself too seriously in the process.

“This season, we saw the revival of the bubble skirt. Styled with printed snakeskin and powerful shoulders at Khaite, longer versions at Proenza Schouler reimagined with a low-waist silhouette and Simone Rocha’s metallic mini bubble; these were all highlights,” says Wiggins.