Tag: catster-homepage-3-posts

Hi, I’m Christopher! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my silly Russian Blue cat, Olga.

I didn’t have a boring life before adopting Olga, but she has entertained me for almost eight years. When studying cat behavior, we often connect their actions to instincts. Their aversion to water is attributed to their desert origins, and their fondness for playing with toys is related to their predatory instincts, but is their sense of humor instinctual?

Comedic Cats

I think most felines have a sense of humor, and it’s hard to argue that they don’t appreciate physical comedy. Olga doesn’t laugh or smile, but she gets a kick out of knocking my glasses off the shelf above my bed, especially if they land on my face. She attacks inanimate objects when she’s hungry and wants attention, but sometimes, she does it for entertainment.

The other day, she was sitting in my lap, half asleep, while I was working on the computer. She lazily stretched her left paw out and pushed a pen off my desk. Irritating me isn’t instinctual, but Olga is amused by it and enjoys laughing (internally) at my expense. She wouldn’t be the same cat without her sense of humor, and I probably wouldn’t enjoy living with her.

Slamming Doors

Erratic behavior isn’t unusual in cats, but until I adopted Olga, I didn’t think opening and slamming doors was a source of feline entertainment. She loves squeezing her body into the narrow gap between the door and wall, standing on her hind legs, and pushing the door closed with her front legs. She can grab the door handle and pull the door open, but she struggles sometimes.

She screams if she cannot open the door and increases the volume if I ignore her. When I open the door, she howls at me and runs away. Most cats don’t like trapping themselves in a room. After the first experience, they’re unlikely to repeat it, but Olga is a goofball. She’ll wait a few minutes before running into another room and slamming the door.

If I play a joke on her and lock the door, she’ll scratch the carpet by the door and whine. After I ignore her, she’ll start ramming the door. She’s a little cat but sounds like a bull or a battering ram. Although her cries sound urgent, and she looks upset when the door opens, she doesn’t relent and finds another door to attack. Her behavior isn’t instinctual, and she wouldn’t repeatedly slam the door if it didn’t amuse her.

Sources of Amusement

As young kittens, cats are entertained by their siblings and parents and eventually by their owners. If they live in a shelter, they lose their sense of humor unless they’re adopted. Feral cats probably aren’t as concerned about entertainment since they’re often in pain from injuries and disease, but at least those living in colonies can bask in their communal despair.

Cats like Olga are lucky they can experience joy and humor. We are the primary source of comedy for our cats, and without us, they would revert to being humorless predators.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Disclaimer: The images used in this article are to demonstrate scruff-holding. The cats in the images have been handled carefully, spoiled rottenly, and given ridiculous amounts of chicken for agreeing to pose for me. They were given space and opportunity to leave whenever they had enough, and their welfare remains my top priority.

It wasn’t all that long ago that it was commonplace to see cats held, restrained, even carried by the scruff of their neck. We would see mother cats carrying their kittens in this way, so how could it possibly be harmful? And for the most part, our cats didn’t seem to mind…or did they?

In recent years, animal behaviorists have come to realize that rather than making them feel calm and relaxed, picking a cat up by the scruff may actually trigger feelings of fear, stress, and helplessness, resulting in the floppy reaction we often see. Sure, this might make them easier to handle, but does that make it okay?

There are a number of movements and organizations aiming to minimize or stop the use of the scruff hold in veterinary practice, and while this is an admirable goal, it is not always realistic or practical. Some animal workers have vowed to never scruff a cat, no matter the circumstances, which I often found challenging in practice. Even the International Cat Care organization acknowledges that using a scruff hold to restrain a cat is sometimes necessary, as described in their Scruff Free Campaign Pledge:

“International Cat Care’s ‘scruff-free’ campaign is focused on avoiding the routine use of scruffing as a means of restraining a cat, which unfortunately is still practised all too frequently. Our campaign refers specifically to the routine use of scruffing when handling cats. There may be exceptional circumstances in which there is a real and imminent risk of injury to a person where very brief heavy restraint, such as scruffing, may be necessary. However, these occasions should be rare and exceptional, never ever routine.”

What I often found frustrating was when I needed to quickly and safely perform a procedure, give an injection, or examine an injury on a fractious, aggressive cat, and my supporting staff would flat-out refuse to use a scruff hold. This would inevitably result in a more protracted, stressful, and dangerous approach to a problem that could have easily been addressed by briefly applying an effective form of restraint.

So although it may not be popular, I strongly believe that, in certain circumstances, a scruff hold is the best and safest form of restraint.

The Lesser of Two Evils

I don’t necessarily believe that ‘the ends justifies the means’ when it comes to scruffing a cat, but I do believe that it is sometimes the ‘lesser of two evils’. Yes, scruffing a cat may be an unpleasant cause of stress, discomfort, and helplessness for a cat, but if the alternative means:

• Getting the cat back in the following day after being given a sedative at home
• Spending more time trying to towel wrap an already-distressed feline
• Risking injury to cat or human
• Using sedatives or general anesthetic for something that should take less than 30 seconds
• Costing an owner hundreds of dollars to remove a thorn, remove a loose claw, or remove a small patch of matted fur
• I will choose the option that causes the least amount of distress to all involved. And sometimes, that means I scruff.

When Is Scruffing Okay?

Rather than have a blanket rule of ‘no scruffing, ever’, I would much rather have some guidelines laid out so that people know when scruffing is and isn’t appropriate, and how to safely scruff hold a cat. So that’s what I’m going to do.

How To Correctly Scruff Hold A Cat

If you are not confident and swift in your approach, you are unlikely to be successful, so make sure that you are ready to hold your cat firmly, and ensure you have your next step already planned.

If possible, start by rubbing the cat’s scruff. This avoids startling them by just grabbing the scruff, and allows you to assess whether or not they are particularly sensitive in this area. If the cat resents being touched over their neck or shoulders, you should not attempt the scruff hold, as this will only make the situation worse.

For the scruff-hold to be effective, you need to have a firm grip of a handful of the scruff – do not pinch the skin, or just pick up a tiny section. This will be more painful, and will not give you any control.

There are three main positions you will then need:

The carry: Never lift a cat by the scruff without placing a hand under their chest or behind their bottom. If you can do so safely, cradle them against your body to give them some extra security.

The hold: This is when you are restraining the cat to allow someone to do or check something quickly or safely. Keep the head out of the way of the other person, and use your other hand to secure the front legs at the level of the elbow.

The medicate: Ideally, this should also be a 2-person maneuver, with the second person keeping the front legs from getting involved. Use your non-dominant hand to hold the scruff and tilt the head back as far as possible. This will make it easier to pull the lower jaw down and administer the medication.

This method of medicating a cat should only be used for short-term or one-off treatments. If your cat is on long-term medication, scruffing them on a daily basis will only reinforce their resentment towards being medicated, so you need to find an alternative method.

Sometimes I Scruff

Not everyone will agree with me, and that’s okay. But I do think that sometimes we can cause more stress and harm by avoiding the scruff hold, when briefly using this unpopular technique is actually the best method.

I absolutely agree that it should not be used often, or to carry out lengthy procedures, but I do think that it is more practical and realistic to say avoid using the scruff hold, rather than saying never.

The information is current and up-to-date in accordance with the latest veterinarian research.

Learn more »

Hi, I’m Dr. Lauren! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my two adventurous cats, Pancake and Tiller.

On a recent hike/scramble up one of the tallest regional mountains, it was not exactly what I expected. But the first rule of the mountains is to expect the unexpected. And, to be fair, it was generally a wonderful experience.

It’s a great day, out in nature, with the elements. Being outdoors has been shown to improve blood pressure, mood, and generally be stress relieving. What’s not to enjoy?

But, too, the mountains can be unforgiving. Even a short hike can turn deadly. A lack of preparation can turn a day outing into something that quickly becomes all too real if weather conditions change, or a member of the group injures themselves. And that’s just for humans. But what about pets? Where do they fit into this equation?

Adventure Calls!

As more and more people are jumping onto social trends and getting their adventure cats and adventure pups outside, in many ways, it is to be applauded. The bond that is created, not to mention the exercise, are all very positive items that arise from getting your pet out and about. As a vet, I also have a secret evil pleasure in seeing the stigma of cats being indoor-only pets, or homebodies, absolutely vanquished.

But this recent hike really got me thinking: what are the limits on what we should ask pets to endure? In particular, this hike involved technical scrambles, white-out conditions, winds 50+ knots, and near-freezing temperatures. And did I mention the rain? The absolutely bone-chilling, strength-zapping, wind-driven rain? And if it is all for a social media image, or worse, pure ignorance of the severity of the conditions, why take the risk? We all love our pets, but surely that also means knowing when to say no, as well.

Know Your Limits

To put it bluntly, about 30 minutes from the summit, we encountered multiple adults and children literally yelling, sobbing, or both, that they could not go on. The conditions had taken their toll. These people were done, defeated. They knew their limits, and they were drawing the line in the sand. Yet, the number of animals I saw, going up the mountain, seemed unreal. Certainly a small number seemed to be enjoying the rather blustery outing. But most dogs looked wary, and uncertain, if not outright terrorized.

I get it, we love them. They are family. But just as not all people should be hiking tough climbs, nor should all animals. Pad cuts, dehydration, injuries- were these people prepared for first aid for their pets? Many barely had waterproofs and themselves were soaked through, looked miserable, and were ardently complaining. If that had been the prep they’d done for themselves, you had to wonder: what failsafes did they have for their pet?

Avoid the Risk

Just as we do a mountain risk assessment with ourselves, I strongly advocate that we need to do the same for our pets before we head outdoors. Even the risk they present to others—I saw more than one dog attempting to get away from the winds that could possibly blow them over the edge, and almost trip a number of hikers with their leash in the process. The decision to take these pets up a mountain in inclement weather was now putting multiple lives at risk.

In my opinion, very few, if any, pets (feline or otherwise) belong on a mountain. Instagram may make it look lovely, but the reality can be harsh, and both human and animal lives can be put at risk.

Hi, I’m Christopher! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my silly Russian Blue cat, Olga.

Cats find creative ways to get our attention, but some of their techniques are more cunning than others. Although dogs are more famous for their begging skills than cats, Olga has developed a system that encourages me to feed her earlier than her usual dinnertime. It was unnecessary before I worked at home, and over the years, she’s modified her methods.

Most pet cats, even the affectionate ones, are somewhat manipulative. Their instincts influence their behavior, but their intelligence helps them discover new ways to irritate their owners. In the wild, they don’t need to beg or depend on humans for food or entertainment.

They may devise a plan to steal a rodent’s carcass from a littermate, but most felines, except those in feral colonies, are solitary hunters. Wild cats don’t need to be manipulative, but housecats have learned to prey on our emotions.

They haven’t been domesticated for as long as dogs, but the recently discovered grave of an 8-month-old cat buried next to their owner in Cyprus suggests cats have been annoying humans for nearly 10,000 years. Like her ancestors, Olga knows how to influence people and makes Dale Carnegie proud.

If she wants to sit on the windowsill, she starts by grinding her claws on the wood molding. Then, she stands on her hind legs and hits the blinds. If I don’t open the blinds and let her sit down, she escalates her attack by jamming a paw into the blind and slamming it back and forth into the wall. If I shout or tell her to stop, she backs off momentarily before resuming the mischief.

She knows I have a breaking point, and even if I chase her away from the window, she won’t relent until I pull the blinds up. Her begging routine is subtle at first, but as her hunger grows, she becomes more impatient and bolder. Her normal dinnertime is around 5 PM, but the subtle begging begins around 2:30. She wakes up from her 10th nap of the day, sits near the entrance to my office, and stares at me.

After an hour of ignoring her, she’ll move closer and sit on the windowsill since it’s to the left of my computer screen. I can see her glare in my peripheral vision when I’m typing, but I’ve learned to ignore her and avoid eye contact. She’ll grunt and stand up if I return her stare, and eventually, she’ll get tired of waiting and find other ways to grab my attention. She’ll run into the bathroom, jump in the bathtub, and howl.

I didn’t think cats were intelligent enough to understand the principles of acoustics, but Olga knows that her voice is amplified when she screams in the tub. Next, she jumps on the sink and knocks my toothpaste or contact lens case on the floor. I respect her for trying the gentle approach before resorting to violence, and while I don’t like to be manipulated by humans, I don’t mind when Olga is devious.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Acupuncture has been around for thousands of years; at least as far back as 300 B.C.E. when Chinese emperor Huangdi wrote the text known as “The Yellow Emperor’s Classic of Internal Medicine”, but possibly even earlier.¹ The 5300-year-old mummified remains of a man found in the Italian Alps showed tattoo markings and corresponding bone impressions that archaeologists believe may have served as markers for needle treatments, meaning that acupuncture is not just ancient, it may also have multiple origins.

Until recently, most Traditional Chinese Medicine practices were treated with derision by the modern medical community, seen as old fashioned and outdated. So what has changed?

Apart from the thousands, if not millions, of anecdotal success stories, a greater understanding of how acupuncture actually works has allowed this non-invasive technique to find a place in mainstream medicine.

The Basics of Acupuncture

In the briefest possible terms, traditional acupuncture uses ‘dry’ needles placed at certain locations along meridians to manipulate and unblock ‘Qi’ (pronounced ‘chee’) – the body’s life force energy. These meridians correlate to different parts of the body, though not every point along that meridian affects those body parts.

We now appreciate that meridians may actually link back to tissue differentiation during embryonic development, while Qi could be another way of describing nerve pathways, tissue planes, and energy transfer. From here, it becomes easier for dedicated scientists to appreciate how this ‘alternative’ therapy might actually work.

Embracing Holistic Treatment for Pets

After attending a course on veterinary acupuncture, I became obsessed with using this technique in practice. Although the majority of my acupuncture patients were of the canine variety, feline acupuncture arguably has a greater potential for success. Cats have been found to respond more strongly to acupuncture, and there have been promising results in its use in managing feline asthma.

I have been using acupuncture at home on my Labrador, Bailey, whose joints are feeling their age. Recently, I decided to introduce Zazzles, our timid tortie, to this treatment and I was astounded with the results! When we rescued Zazzy eight years ago, we became aware of a poorly healed fracture on one of her hind legs. She has coped with this very well, but recently she has started to limp, so we decided it was time to get started on a pain management plan. Being quite a nervous girl, I wasn’t sure how she would respond to this unusual form of stimulation, but far from being afraid, she actually rolled over purring!

It’s a little too soon to know how well the treatments are going to work, but at least I know that there’ll be no problem repeating them!

Don’t Try This At Home!

Obviously, acupuncture isn’t something you can do at home on your own pets, but you can try some acupressure and massage.

As the name suggests, acupressure involves using targeted pressure over specific areas, such as those used for acupuncture, to achieve similar results without a needle. It is a technique that just about anyone can use to help relieve tension, provide pain relief, and soothe their pets at home. In addition, if you have a cat that suffers with respiratory issues like asthma, there are a couple of pressure points you may like to try:

Massaging a cat is pretty straightforward, with very little difference between it and regular stroking. The main thing to be aware of is applying firmer pressure either side of the spine with the palm of your hand, as well as focusing on the neck and shoulders. The only trouble you’re likely to run into is when you try to stop!

If you think your cat may benefit from acupuncture, talk to your vet. Not all vets and veterinary practices will offer this service, so you may need to look around. Rest assured that, far from being a stressful experience, most cats find acupuncture to be quite relaxing!

The information is current and up-to-date in accordance with the latest veterinarian research.

Learn more »

Hi, I’m Dr. Lauren! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my two adventurous cats, Pancake and Tiller.

Have you ever gone to your own doctor, and they’ve said quite simply “I don’t know what is wrong with you.” Well, it happens with vets, too. Obviously, no one wants this to happen, but it can for a variety of reasons: the issue is outside a person’s area of expertise, the disease can mimic a variety of complicated issues and be difficult if not downright impossible to workup without specific advanced testing modalities, or sometimes, simply, the answers and right tests have not yet been invented.

In these situations in human medicine, you might elect to seek a second opinion from another doctor, or you might even be referred to a specialist. Did you know that this is also possible in veterinary medicine?

What Is a Referral?

In cats, as a vet, I’ve seen referrals and second opinions throughout my career. I’ve also sent patients of mine for a referral, or second opinions. So what are they? Does your cat need one? And how do you make the visit as successful as possible? Read on.

A primary veterinarian or general practitioner sees routine appointments, as well as appointments for ill cats. They give vaccines, prescribe medications, and do various surgeries. However, for patients who have multiple illnesses, or severe illnesses, or lots of clinical signs and no diagnosis, then they might get referred to another vet. If that vet is a specialist, then this is generally called a referral. This specialist can then proceed to do necessary diagnostics to try and identify the underlying issue and how to best treat it. Referrals must come through your own vet.

What is a Second Opinion?

Second opinions, however, can be seen by any vet—specialist or not. And they can be self-referred, meaning your vet does not need to direct the booking and appointment process. Second opinions in some countries mean that the new vet seeing your cat cannot do diagnostics or provide treatment- they simply review the case, and then give you feedback that you can take to your own vet.

Tips For Getting Referrals and Second Opinions

If you are thinking of getting a referral, or a second opinion, here’s how you can best go about booking this process:

• Ensure that your cat’s complete medical records, including imaging, lab results, and the medical history, have been sent in toto to the new vet. And, ensure this is done well in advance because often there is little or no time set aside on the day of the appointment to review what can sometimes be a very complicated history! In an ideal world, a week prior would be perfect, in my humble opinion!
• I’ll tell you a secret: honestly, we don’t mind if you want a referral or a second opinion! Many people I have worked with are afraid of retaliation from their vet, some to the point that they won’t even ask for their cat’s medical records to be sent beforehand. This only undermines the entire process, as it’s very difficult for me to give accurate information with only partial facts. And, I promise, we want the best for your cat, just like you do. If that means going to another clinic or vet, by all means, do so!
• Call the referral clinic a day or two ahead of your appointment. This confirms the appointment time and also acts as a reminder to them to obtain any further information from you or your vet that they might need beforehand.
• Arrive early for the referral or second opinion appointment. Often there is extra paperwork to fill out, or possible questions. And, the vet might even be able to see you early, if their schedule allows. Too, traveling to a new place can often mean new traffic hazards and other things that may slow down your travel. Better to arrive early, rather than late, and cut into your appointment time.

So next time you take your cat to your vet, and if the answer ever comes back with “I don’t know what is going on here” then know that you have options. Those can be scary words, but there is also light at the end of a second tunnel- it just might take a bit of extra time to get there!

Hi, I’m Christopher! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my silly Russian Blue cat, Olga.

Ignoring your cat is often necessary when working, talking on the phone, or making dinner. Typically, most cats aren’t fond of what they consider neglect and are not shy about expressing frustration. Several years ago, my Siamese cat learned how to turn off my Xbox when my online sessions lasted too long. Since the digital power button was overly sensitive, he only had to touch it with his nose to end my fun and regain his status as the center of attention.

Olga’s Patience

Patience isn’t usually one of Olga’s virtues, but she’s uncharacteristically calm when I’m on the phone. She’ll sit nearby and stare if my conversation drags on, but she doesn’t jump in my lap or destroy the furniture. She looks irritated if I get off the phone and get another call, but she’s much calmer than when I ignore her while working on the computer.

However, she’s a little bothered by video calls and doesn’t think human voices should emanate from a computer screen. If she is sitting by my chair when a video chat starts, she’ll run off to the living room. I think the sound quality is okay, but the pitch or timbre bothers Olga, and she reacts similarly to YouTube videos. Of course, I understand her reaction to online videos since some have horrendous soundtracks.

Loud Talkers

The sound of a muffled voice from my phone may also irritate her since she doesn’t sit too close when waiting for the call to end. Most of my friends and some of my relatives are high-decibel conversationalists, and I’m sure with her enhanced hearing, she’s happy to keep her distance.

I’m surprised she understands that I’m talking to someone else, but like most healthy cats and dogs, she can hear the other person’s voice and knows my attention is focused on them. I don’t understand why she’s so considerate and avoids bothering me when I talk for too long. If I’m doing anything else, like reading or writing, her patience is thin.

Low-Decibel Meows

My Siamese cat wasn’t as accommodating when I ignored him, and after enduring his screaming, I eventually ended my phone calls. Even if Olga cried the entire time I was on the phone, she wouldn’t be as disruptive as my Siamese. She doesn’t have a powerful meow and only cries constantly when confined to the carrier.

As I mentioned in one of my other articles, I didn’t think Olga could make a sound when she was a kitten. She used to open her mouth to cry, especially when I was prepping food in the kitchen, but no sound would come out. Eventually, she made a little noise, but the sounds were more like “squeaks” than “meows.”

I wondered if she was crossbred with a large rodent until I heard her scream for the first time. I’m glad she’s not a silent cat, and I’m also happy she’s so polite when I’m on the phone, even though it seems out of character for her.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

This is an argument that has been going on for as long as people started keeping pets. Pet owners being asked to choose a side, pick a species, identify themselves as either cat or dog people. Although there are many out there in my position, lucky enough to share their lives with both cats and dogs, people who claim not to have a favorite are being as honest as parents who say they don’t have a favorite child – come on!

You might assume from the title that I have declared myself a ‘cat person’, but you might want to wait until you’ve read Part Two: Why Dogs Are Better Than Cats before you decide. And no, I’m not going to tell you which I am – spoilers!

Instead, I present to you a (relatively) unbiased argument for the affirmative team on why cats are better than dogs.

Cats Are Better Than Dogs Because…

• They are quite self-sufficient and relatively low-maintenance
• They are practically born toilet-trained
• They don’t need to be taken out for walks
• They don’t bark
• They don’t jump up on your guests
• They don’t hump your furniture, your leg, your guest’s leg…
• They can be left alone for long periods of time (even overnight if you have planned and prepared appropriately)
• Their purring releases endorphins in them and us
• They are emotionally intelligent
• They keep themselves clean
• They have evolved a form of communication (the meow) specifically for humans
• Kittens are undeniably, unquestionably, adorable

Of course, living with cats isn’t all hugs and rainbows, and there are some negatives (or perceived negatives) to life in the company of felinekind. For instance:

• They can somehow make us feel judged, unwanted, or surplus to requirement
• They leave hair on EVERYTHING
• They leave claw marks on clothing, carpets, and furniture
• They bring us gifts we don’t want (eg. dead – or almost dead – mice, birds, rats etc)
• They can be aloof – affection is usually on their terms only
• They sometimes express stress, irritation, territorialism, or dissatisfaction by peeing on things
• They vomit
• They are often most active between 12am and 3am
• It can be challenging to keep indoor cats in, and outdoor cats out
• They can cause conflict between neighbors if they use their garden as a litter box

Who Identifies As A Cat Person?

I have long believed that even people without pets can be categorized as cat or dog people, though there will always be exceptions and outliers. Broadly speaking, a cat person tends to be someone who:

• is more introvert than extrovert
• is wary of strangers
• doesn’t make friends easily, but makes them for life
• prefers the comforts of home
• likes to re-read favorite books and re-watch favorite movies and tv shows
• is cautious, reflective, and considers things carefully
• prefers a warm spot in a cool home, rather than central heating
• will turn on a fan or air-conditioner to be able to stay under a blanket
• likes (and may even have) dogs, but doesn’t have a close affinity with them
• prefers yoga, pilates, or meditation over cardio workouts
• loves cats

Am I a Cat Person or a Dog Person?

I would have to say that most, if not all, of the traits above describe me quite well, but with five cats and five dogs, am I so easily categorized? You’ll just have to check out Part Two.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

I often find myself feeling envious of my cats. No responsibilities, all meals provided, nothing to do but laze the day away. So this week, I decided to take my envy and turn it into action, spending the day in Cyril’s shoes (or paws). It turns out that it’s not all it’s cracked up to be.

02:00: I’m feeling a bit lonely, so I’m going to find my human and spend 15 minutes getting comfortable on their back.

02:30: Bored now. I’m going back to my room to sleep there instead.

04:00: Feeling a bit peckish; I might run in and out of the human’s bedroom a few times, see if that generates any food.

04:30: Food mission was not a success. Time to get the others involved.

04:45: Commence ‘Operation Wake The Humans’. The ginger one and I take turns chasing each other, and the black one. Sometimes the torti one joins in as well.

04:55: Humans have stirred and grumbled, but no move to get out of bed.

05:00: Tiny dog jumps on the floor. Human is up and follows it downstairs. Irritating that tiny dog is able to achieve what I had not, but at least food should arrive shortly. Very excited.

05:15: Food arrives and I am very excited to see that it is the same thing as yesterday, and the day before that, and the day before that, and the day before that…… Yum!

05:25: Time for a nap.

07:30: Humans are more active now. Maybe today will be the day they forget that we have already been fed? No? Well, there’s always tomorrow. Time for another nap.

09:45: One of the humans is sitting at the desk and their hands are moving a lot. Perhaps they are cold. I shall help by sitting on them.

09:50: Human doesn’t seem to realize that I’m trying to help. I will persevere.

10:00: Human has rejected my assistance. Instead, I deposit a large poop in the box beside the desk. The human seems to be very pleased, making all sorts of sounds as they gather it up for their collection. I wonder what they do with them all.

12:45: Feeling bored and a bit hungry. Check bowl – no food. Another disappointment. I’ll have a drink and lick my butt, and check back later.

13:00: Still no food. Time to fall dramatically onto my back in the middle of the room and lie there for 30 minutes.

13:30: One of the tiny dogs sniffs my tail, so I swish and twitch it enticingly. He makes an annoying yappy sound, so I roll over and tap his head. He runs away crying. What a wuss.

13:40: Tiny dog returns with tiny friend, and they chase me up the stairs. The cheek of them! When I reach the top I turn around to watch them, and they run away. They are not very brave.

14:00: Bowl check – still no food. I’ll give it another hour, but then it will be time to commence our afternoon demands. In the meantime, I shall nap.

15:30: Engage shadow mode – where human goes, I go. They try to shut me out of the small room with the porcelain chair, but I manage to squeeze through the gap in the door.

17:30: Human is making preparations in the kitchen. Numerous bowls and foods appearing on the counter. I shall inspect them all. Large dog jumps up and licks my face. Disgusting creature.

17:45: Dinner time! I am very excited to see that it is the same thing as last night, and the night before that, and the night before that, and the night before that…… Yum!

18:00: Lazily washing my face and paws, and trying to decide if I shall vomit some of my dinner on the carpet tonight. Not tonight, maybe tomorrow. Instead, I’ll have a nap. A pile of warm towels has just appeared on the bed, so I will make use of that.

19:30: I am woken by the sound of the human scraping around in the litter box, so I wait patiently for them to finish their scavenging before going in for a large pee. Human lets out a sigh, presumably relieved that there will be more waste products for them to harvest.

20:00: Human is watching the noisy picture on the wall, so I sit in front and have a wash. I wait for them to say something about making a cup of tea, and take this as my cue to curl up on their lap for a nap.

21:30: Human hasn’t moved, so I will stay here for a while longer.

22:00: Can’t sleep as human is jiggling their knee, so I stretch and disappear upstairs. The human follows but goes into the room with the porcelain chair.

23:00: Time for a last-minute wrestling match with the ginger one before turning in for the night. I check the bowl in case any food has appeared, but sadly, it is empty. Oh well, I shall check again in a few hours…

I’ve realized that, although Cyril’s life looks pretty chilled and free from stress, it’s also pretty dull. I’m also not sure that I could eat the same food every day with the level of enthusiasm displayed by my cats; not having autonomy over my meals would be a deal breaker for me! I could probably get used to all the naps though!

The information is current and up-to-date in accordance with the latest veterinarian research.

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Hi, I’m Dr. Lauren! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my two adventurous cats, Pancake and Tiller.

Unlike dogs, it’s not all that common for cats to eat things they shouldn’t. But just like one of my friends shoved a Lego up their nose as a child to prove it was possible, and ended up in the ER with some very amused docs, cats, also, sometimes do things they shouldn’t.

As a vet, I’ve seen all sorts. A cat that ate a small plastic toy carrot; another that ate the head off a child’s doll (whole), one that swallowed part of a straw, and another that had a small pinecone lodged in his trachea, they can always keep you guessing! But, far and away, there are a few consistent items that Pancake and Tiller either aren’t allowed to be around, or I simply don’t keep them in the house, for the very reason that they commonly show up in clinics as a foreign body.

So, let’s look at some of the more popular items cats eat that they shouldn’t.

The 6 Inappropriate Things Cats Eat:

Thread

Thread, sometimes attached to a needle, is very common as a foreign body in cats. It can get wrapped around the tongue, and become anchored, which can cause lots of issues, as the intestines try to digest the thread, becoming bunched. In turn, the thread can more or less saw through the intestines, creating secondary issues such as infection and inflammation in the abdominal cavity, as intestinal contents leak out. As a vet, I saw one poor patient that had eaten thread 3-4 weeks before I met her, and had been suffering for that length of time with something stuck on her tongue, and the thread damaging her intestines. Ouch!

Fishing Lures

These often include fun feathers, they may seem to the unaware feline to be a perfect toy. But I have seen more cats than I’d care to admit, who have eaten a fish hook as part of the deal, and it’s stuck in their mouth, their tongue, or their cheek.

Human Toys

Human toys. Squishy things that are small like bouncy balls are a feline favorite, and are nicely sized to get stuck right in the small intestine!

Foam

I’ve seen patients chew on foam, including ear plugs, and chewing up bits of a flip-flop. Or maybe some of the scent of these items that spend their time in more unusual places, also adds some irresistibleness?

Hair Ties

Fun to chase but can be easily ingested!

Christmas Tinsel

The perfect holiday cat toy, until they eat it!

What To Do About It

Obviously, cats can, and do, sometimes eat foreign objects other than the above. But, it’s a common list of items to be wary of, and keep well away from curious cats!

So, if your cat does get into any of these, what are the next steps? Well, invariably, they all involve a trip to your cat’s vet! For things like thread, only an anesthetized exam can truly decide if your cat may have string trapped under their tongue. And fishhooks stuck in cats’ mouths also generally need sedation to be properly assessed and removed. A small item may end up passing on its own without intervention, but I still recommend a veterinary checkup, so you can make a plan, together, about any lingering concerns the item may cause.

Ultimately, it’s always better to try and prevent any issues far before they occur! Worst case scenario, your cat may require surgery to remove the ingested item. (Have you seen my article on why cats need pet insurance, recently?)

At the end of the day, we love these furry creatures. But definitely be on the lookout for any items that your cat might get into, or rather, that could end up getting into your cat!

Hi, I’m Christopher! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my silly Russian Blue cat, Olga.

Taking a vacation is more complicated when your cat joins you. Most rental properties only allow dogs, and fewer hotels with pet-friendly policies allow cats. Campsites are also more accepting of canines, but if your cat loves to travel with you, you can find cat-friendly accommodation if you search hard enough.

Feline Restrictions

It may seem odd that property managers consider cats more destructive than dogs, but dogs are less likely to make a mess because they don’t use a litter box. They’re also not as fond of scratching furniture, which is probably the primary reason for the cats’ exclusion. Olga isn’t a traveling cat and doesn’t enjoy leaving the house, even for a walk in the backyard.

I wish I could take her on vacation, but I don’t want her to be miserable, and I don’t think she would enjoy a trip to the beach or mountains. I don’t know many cats that are happy travelers, but I have a few friends who have taken their cats camping. Their cats are more adventurous than Olga and aren’t shy around unfamiliar humans.

Olga and the Great Outdoors

If she were confined to a tent, Olga would have an anxiety attack and probably claw her way out. She’s never been in one, but she hates closed doors and knows how to open them, as long as they’re unlocked. She couldn’t join me on most hiking trails, especially the ones that allow dogs, because she’s not leash-trained or used to being in the wilderness.

Some cats are more suitable for traveling than others, and if you want to take your cat on vacation, it’s best to leash-train them and get them used to traveling in a carrier. Training a cat to walk on a leash requires more patience than training a dog, but it’s possible. Cats aren’t eager to please humans and don’t share the long history of working beside humans like dogs.

Training Cats

Although they have an enhanced sense of smell and may be able to detect illnesses in humans, cats aren’t as receptive to training as dogs, which is one reason you don’t see them searching for corpses, drugs, or explosives. They’re not stubborn or untrainable, but most people cannot dedicate several hours a day to teaching cats advanced commands and tricks.

Training your cat will help you handle them when vacationing, but some personalities are better suited to traveling. Shy cats are not happy travelers, but outgoing felines who love interacting with strange humans and animals are ideal. My Siamese cat was a much better traveler than Olga, and several years ago, I took him with me to the beach.

I had to give him IV injections to treat his kidney disease, and I didn’t want to leave him home and rely on someone else to treat him. He was happy to join me and the family at the beach house and seemed to have a great time. Olga would rather stay home and have one of my friends take care of her, and I’m okay with that. Sometimes, cats like Olga need a vacation from us.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

I grew up in Queensland, Australia, then lived in Alice Springs in the Northern Territory for a couple of years before moving to the UK. And before I had the five felines I share my home with today, there was Gilbert and Sullivan; two adorable female tabbies.

Gilbert was first on the scene, and Sully joined us two years later. They were never the best buddies I had hoped they would be, but they seemed to get along without conflict, happy to share space on my bed and different perches on the cat tree. After about a year, however, we began to suspect that all was not well when Sully started peeing in all places that weren’t a litter box.

Sully’s Problematic Peeing

Shopping bags, handbags, and shoes were her favorites – particularly embarrassing when they belonged to guests. There was the occasional incident on my bed, but by far the worst was when she piddled on the steam mop – steaming cat urine is an unforgettable experience. My Dad would argue that the most regrettable urination situation was the one in the fruit bowl, which was only discovered after he’d sliced a banana on his breakfast cereal. At least it was a fruit from which the skin was completely removed before eating!

If you’ve ever had to deal with inappropriate feline urination, you might be familiar with some of the tips, tricks, and techniques we might have employed to tackle our wee problem:

• Urinalysis to rule out inflammation, infection, or crystals
• Pheromone diffusers and sprays to help her feel settled
• Adding an extra litter box to the 3 we already had, in a new location with a different type of litter
• Cleaning any soiled surface with an enzymatic cleaner designed specifically for this purpose

Some of these methods helped for a time, but eventually, the urination would return. The places she was piddling suggested that this was territorial behavior, choosing vertical surfaces, my bed, and items that regularly entered and exited the house. The problem was clear: despite appearances, Sully felt threatened by Gilbert, and was employing passive-aggressive tactics to try to improve her position in the home.

Sully’s Persistent Problematic Urination

Unfortunately, realizing this was the problem did nothing to help me find a solution, but it did demonstrate that there can be pretty intense friction between cats that appear to be getting along just fine.

This was an ongoing problem for my family and I right up until the time when I moved to Alice Springs, bringing Gilbert and Sully with me. I had prepped the new house with pheromone diffusers and sprays, and placed litter boxes in a few different locations to give them plenty of options. When I first let them out of their travel crates, they spent the first 48 hours huddled together behind the toilet, barely moving an inch. Afterwards, they began to bravely explore their new home, including their newly erected outdoor catio.

And guess what? The entire time we lived in the red center, there was never a single territorial pee. Every urination was contained within the box, and I never had to buy another bottle of urine cleaner.

Lessons from Sully’s Problematic Urination

So what changed?

Well, I have a theory.

When Sully came into the Queensland house, Gilbert had been there for a couple of years, comfortable and settled in her well-established territory, so Sully employed her pheromonal defense system. When we moved to Alice Springs, they entered the house as equals, sharing in the trauma of relocation and new territory.

So does that mean that you need to move house to stop your cat from marking their territory? Hopefully not! It’s not a particularly economical solution! But, I had a friend employ a version of this method when she was having the same problem with her cats. Like Sully, one of her cats had joined the house later than the others and had taken to urinating on various items and areas. Having tried everything else, she took my advice and sent her three cats to stay at a cattery for a week. While they were gone, she did a thorough clean of the house, furniture, bedding, and clothes, even using a UV lamp to check for traces of pee.

Lo and behold; when the three felines returned home together, the territorial urination stayed away.

It may seem like an extreme way to approach this problem, but if you are dealing with inappropriate urination in a multi-cat household, and you have explored all possible causes and solutions, a week away could be just what you need to keep the cat pee smell away! At least it’s worth a try.

The information is current and up-to-date in accordance with the latest veterinarian research.

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Hi, I’m Dr. Lauren! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my two adventurous cats, Pancake and Tiller.

Love biters. No, not that kind…cat love biters.

We’ve all probably met them: the loveable cat that gets excited, then bites you. Or the one that comes up to you and gets a pat, and gives you a gentle bite.

Tiller is one of the world’s great love biters. In fact, it’s far more likely you’ll get a love bite than a pur if you interact with her. Even Pancake is not immune- a few licks, and then a good bite. No wonder Pancake no longer shares the bed with Tiller-zilla.

And Tiller is not alone.

I’ve met a variety of different types of cats in my work: dog cats, people cats, cat cats, and biters. Clients often come in saying: my cat bites me. You might think that people are talking about a cat that is an aggressive or fear biter, but that is rarely the case. Most clients that talk about their biter cats, refer to those cats that intermittently exchange a friendly pat for an equally friendly bite. They don’t break the skin, they cause surprise more than pain, and they are sometimes adorable, when they do it slowly, gently, and just hang there.

But just why do cats do this familiar, gentle, persistent biting?

To be honest, no one really knows! If only cats could talk… But here are a few theories:

• Mother/kitten instinct and nursing: It’s possible that this instinct which involves oral stimulation by the kitten on the queen along with the release of bonding hormones, extends into biting, in adult life, and the adult cat’s human family.
• Biting is a way that many feline emotions are expressed – not just anger. Sexual desires, play, social boundaries and more are all developed via biting. Potentially cats are using the biting to communicate more than we realize?
• The vomeronasal organ: In cats, the roof of their mouth holds the vomeronasal organ, which is able to detect various pheromones. Pheromones are chemical signatures that can be “smelled” by this organ (humans have all but lost theirs). It’s possible that biting puts a cat into a better position to use their vomeronasal organ to “flesh out” (pardon the pun) the situation when interacting with familiar humans.

But, in the end, we simply don’t know. Tiller will remain the household “carpet shark” and her “shark bites” will remain a fun and endearing danger whenever we traverse up or downstairs. Such is the risk of owning cats.

Hi, I’m Christopher! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my silly Russian Blue cat, Olga.

Dressing up cats and dogs is a common practice, and if you’re the lucky owner of a successful feline or canine influencer, it’s pretty lucrative. Sometimes, it’s more entertaining to view photos and videos of animals than ones with humans, and I’ll admit that a Bulldog dressed like a biker in the 1950s is amusing.

However, animals are not free to choose whether they want to wear clothes. Some don’t seem uncomfortable, but most, even the ones featured in online ads for pet products, look sad and irritated. I don’t think it’s cruel to dress up pets for photos or special occasions as long as they only wear the clothes for a few minutes.

Pet Fashion

Several photos are hilarious, but I don’t like seeing painted horses, turtles, or pets that look miserable. I don’t dress my cat because I think Olga is attractive enough without wearing apparel, and I prefer not to have my arms torn to shreds. Since it took her a while before she even allowed me to pick her up, I doubt she would want an ushanka or beret on her head.

While I understand the entertainment value of fully clothed felines, I’ve never understood why some people are so fascinated by them. The pet apparel industry is booming, and several pet owners think making their cats look fashionable is essential, which is what the industry tries to promote.

Costume Issues

Winter jackets and other cold-weather gear are needed when walking pets in frigid conditions, and they’re usually designed to fit the animal’s anatomy. On the other hand, commercial pet costumes, especially those for Halloween, are designed to amuse rather than fit comfortably. They make cats look cartoonish or like injured, unhappy creatures with ill-fitting clothes.

It may seem okay to annoy our felines for a few hours on Halloween, but cats can be creepy without costumes, and they’ve always been associated with the holiday. They don’t need a Dracula robe or Michael Myers mask to look or act like psychopaths. They’re naturally insane and more expressive when not burdened by poorly made fabrics.

Olga’s Natural Style

I enjoy watching Olga when she’s energized and clownish, and wearing clothes would only slow her down. She’s au natural in holiday pictures and isn’t wearing a Santa hat or ugly sweater. She’s following my fashion trends; I’ve been accused of being a humbug for not wearing festive gear.

Some cat owners want their cats to look like them, and goofy clothing helps them achieve that, but I’ve never wanted Olga to look like me. I would have to shave her head, spray-paint her fur, and give her a fake beard. Those inhumane actions would result in a comical-looking cat, but she wouldn’t be happy or as pretty as before.

The only appropriate attire for Olga is a blood-stained butcher’s apron because of her slicing and dicing skills, but I wouldn’t force her to wear one, even for a laugh.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Zelda has a really annoying habit, and I’m embarrassed to admit how long it took me to realize she was trying to tell me something.

Several times a day I would hear the tell-tale ‘clink clink clink’ of her paw raking over the ceramic water bowl. She would do this 10-20 times before settling down to have a drink, leaving traces of black fur and cat litter in her wake. The sound wasn’t annoying, it was the water contamination she would leave behind, meaning that I would have to change the water multiple times throughout the day.

It wasn’t until I was talking to a client about why her cat preferred to drink from her toilet rather than her water bowl, that I realized what Zelda has been trying to tell me.

The Message Was Clear

Okay, so I might be anthropomorphising a bit by saying that Zelda has been trying to send me a message, but I should have been able to figure out why she insisted on paddling in her bowl, a lot sooner than I did.

When people ask “How Can I Get My Cat To Drink More Water?”, or “Why Won’t My Cat Drink From The Bowl?”, there are some basics to consider:

1. A Good View:

A cat likes to be able to keep an eye on their surroundings when they’re having a drink, so a spot with a good aspect will be appreciated.

2. A Quiet Place:

Cats don’t want to quench their thirst in a high-traffic area.

3. The Right Stuff:

Ceramic and stainless steel are in, plastic is out.

4. Proximity to Food and Toilet:

No one wants to eat and drink where they poop, and while you want their water bowl to be near the food, you don’t want to place them side-by-side. Why? It all comes down to their wild ancestry.

In the wild, an old carcass lying in or near the water could indicate contamination, so a wild feline will look for another source. In the domestic world, water that sits too close to the food bowl can become contaminated with food, making it much less desirable.

5. Motion = Freshness:

As a general rule, a moving body of water is a fresh one, free from stagnation and less likely to be contaminated, which is where water fountains can really help, and also what I realized I was missing.

I Quickly Corrected My Mistake

Once the initial embarrassment of realizing I had completely dropped the ball on my feline water provisions, I went straight online to look for a high-capacity drinking fountain, and was lucky enough to find one that was pretty as well!

In addition to the various water bowls already located throughout the house, I now have one that ticks every box:

Things to Keep In Mind

• Make sure you’re buying a water fountain designed for pets: ornamental and garden fountains may not be made from materials appropriate for drinking from.
• Keep power cords safe: This is particularly important if you have a cat that likes to chew things. You might want to think about investing in a power cord protector.
• Keep them topped up: if the water level drops below a certain level, the motor can burn out. This is also something to keep in mind if you’re going away.
• They still need to be cleaned: although the moving water means that you can often get away with just topping them up, you will still need to give them a proper clean at least once a week.

So now I have a lovely, decorative fountain that the cats all enjoy drinking from, Zelda is no longer swirling her paw around in the bowl, and I know that all the cats are drinking enough fresh water.

The only problem now is that the gentle trickling sound makes me need to pee!

The information is current and up-to-date in accordance with the latest veterinarian research.

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Hi, I’m Dr. Lauren! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my two adventurous cats, Pancake and Tiller.

Having your cat spayed or neutered can lead to many complicated feelings. Worry over the procedure, worry about the anesthetic, concerns about how to help with their recovery process, and guilt over making the decision to do it in the first place. I know just how difficult it can be, as I spayed both of my own cats, and the worry, before, during and after, was real!

This article is designed to help you, as an owner, make informed decisions about the importance of these procedures, and what actions you can take to make them smooth, safe, and guilt-free.

Spaying and Neutering 101

Spaying and neutering, in short, are surgeries designed to remove the reproductive organs from a female, or male, cat, respectively. They can colloquially be referred to as desexing, or castration, as well. Technically, they can be performed on cats of any age; however, there are compelling reasons to do this while cats are still young, which we will look at shortly.

So why do we, as vets, strongly recommend that you spay or neuter your cat?

• There is a significant reduction in breast cancer in female cats when they are spayed before their first heat cycle. Breast cancer in cats tends to be very aggressive, and ultimately deadly, so any opportunity to reduce this risk is an important opportunity
• In males and females, desexing leads to a reduction of unwanted behaviors for pet cats, including indoor marking, yowling during heat, and roaming.  And intact male cat urine is undoubtedly pungent!
• Unowned cat numbers are staggering. Spaying or neutering cats reduces unowned cat numbers.

Ways To Decrease Your Guilt

Guilt. It can be a strong emotion, and has no single root cause. Often it involves a feeling of self-consciousness, and reflection upon oneself or one’s action. When choosing to have your cat desexed, guilt can arise from a variety of thoughts. You may feel guilty about the stress caused to your cat, guilt that you have removed their ability to procreate, guilt about potential changes that may occur to your cat after surgery, or guilt that they will be “upset” with you..

• If you are feeling guilty, one of the most important things you can do is to talk about it. The farther in advance of the surgery, the better, as you want to be as comfortable as possible on the day your cat will be having their procedure. Talk with your vet, to start; if needed, make an appointment, specifically that reason, so they can alleviate your concerns. Discuss with family, as well, since they can often factor into the decision, and hence the guilt. Worry can also sometimes present as guilt, so take time to reflect on any concerns you have.
• Try not to anthropomorphize; cats don’t have the same emotional experience we do. That’s not to say they don’t have emotions- but they don’t worry or stress (as far as we know) in the same ways that we do. What you are worrying about, is likely insignificant to your cat, who is more concerned about when dinner is coming, and less concerned about what is happening tomorrow.
• If one of your worries is post-op guilt, then rest assured. Many of the things that people worry about, such as a perception that a cat will become less cuddly or be angry with you for electing the surgery, are generally not founded.
• Take action. See steps below to find ways to help you take action, and gain more control of the situation, which can help lessen your sense of helplessness, and therefore guilt. Also, read the Owner’s Manual on Pain that I wrote a few articles back, to better understand what you can look for post-op to help keep your cat as comfortable as possible!

Ways to Prep to Make Yourself Feel Less Guilty

Taking action helps many people to feel less guilty. The first thing is to know what to expect for surgery. Asking for a checklist, doing background reading, and having a plan for the day before, of, and after surgery, helps. Knowing is half the battle, as a famous 80s slogan said.

Day Before Surgery

• Your vet will often want your cat fasted at some point; ask for confirmation. Generally, however, water is still allowed.
• Don’t wait until today to get the carrier out- this often signals change to your cat! Instead have it out for a few days prior. Get a favorite toy or blanket that smells of home, and put that in the carrier, as well.
• Decide if you will be having your cat microchipped at the time of surgery. This is a great time to have the procedure done, as your cat will be anesthetized. It’s a highly recommended procedure within the veterinary community, as unfortunately, lost cats can’t tell us where they’ve come from.

Day of Surgery

• Know techniques for putting your cat into the carrier, and use these instead of just stuffing your cat in, which adds stress to everyone involved.
• If you have sibling cats, consider having their surgeries on the same day. That way, they smell similarly strange, which can sometimes cause tension when one cat smells differently than the other, after being at the vet for a day.
• Write down any questions you may have, and ask these at the time of dropping off, or picking them up.
• Know the best number to contact you today, and times you aren’t available, and let your vet know.
• Know what is normal, and to be expected the days after surgery, before taking your cat home. Have phone numbers to call if you have any concerns. Does your cat have sutures to take care of, or are they all internal?

Day After Surgery

• Know what medications to give, and what day, and time of day, they start
• Know when re-checks are needed
• If ever in doubt, ask

Guilt doesn’t have to be a part of choosing to do what, most professionals would agree, spaying or neutering is the right choice for your cat.

There’s an old surgical saying: “To cut is a chance to cure.” In the case of desexing your cat, there is nothing truer.

Hi, I’m Christopher! Read my introduction to learn more about me and my silly Russian Blue cat, Olga.

First-time owners are often surprised when their cats’ grooming noise drowns out the volume from the television or stereo. I didn’t realize it was much of a problem until I read several posts from irritated owners complaining about their noisy cats. Excessive grooming is unhealthy and often the result of allergies, anxiety, and other health problems, but loud grooming isn’t unusual or harmful.

High-Decibel Grooming

My Siamese cat stayed clean and groomed his fur consistently until he got kidney disease, but he didn’t make as much noise as Olga. Olga’s coat isn’t as dense and doesn’t shed as often, and although it shouldn’t take her long to clean it, she devotes a lot of her time to grooming and wants everyone to hear it.

Her lip-smacking is loud enough to wake light sleepers, but I’m used to it. She likes to hide and sneak up on me, and her plans are foiled when a sudden urge to groom interferes with her stealthy approach. Her grooming racket lets me know where she is when I’m too lazy to search for her and provides an opportunity to tease her when she’s nearby.

Teasing Olga

When I imitate the sounds she makes, she stops grooming and gives me an evil glare. Since she has lived with me for several years, she’s used to being teased, but she doesn’t tolerate physical contact during her licking sessions. If I mess up her recently groomed hair, she tears up my hand with her claws.

I don’t suggest discouraging the behavior if you have a loud groomer. Interrupting your cat’s grooming by imitating them occasionally isn’t inhumane, but shouting or throwing something at them when the lip-smacking annoys you is. Unless you wear noise-canceling headphones or move to another area of your home when your cat is grooming, there’s not much to do but accept it.

Indoor Freedom

I’m pretty tolerant of Olga’s odd behavior and probably allow her to get away with more than most cat owners. Like many people with indoor cats, I regret confining her indoors, even though it’s the safest option. She’s a natural predator and explorer, and I wish she had more space to run, climb, and pounce.

I don’t let her jump on the countertop, but she can scratch up her favorite chair, slam the rocking chair against the wall, play in the unused bathtub of the spare bathroom, and sleep anywhere. She’s a quiet cat, and it entertains me when she makes a lot of noise as long as it doesn’t involve knocking office supplies and devices off of the desk in my office.

Olga isn’t as violent and destructive as she was as a kitten, and she’s never eaten my clothes or defecated on my bed. She’s spoiled rotten but reasonably well-behaved. I don’t let her get away with murder, but I’m not strict or care when she acts insane. Since Olga is an indoor-only cat, she has limited ways to entertain herself, and she’s happy I don’t act like an authoritarian.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

You know that feeling of rage you get when someone refers to your pet as “just a dog” or “just a cat”? Well, I feel the same way when someone uses the phrase “just a moggie”. If you’re not familiar with the term, ‘moggie’ is basically the feline version of mongrel. They are also known as Domestic Shorthair, Domestic Medium hair, or Domestic Long haired cats. Whether they are a DSH, DMH, or DSH, there is nothing ‘just’ about these marvelous cats.

There are five cats in my house and not a purebred among them. I don’t have anything against a pedigree puss, but I’ve always been a sucker for the less ostentatious feline variety.

Over the many millennia that they have deigned humans worthy of their company, cats have mostly been spared the major physical manipulations that selective breeding has bestowed on dogs. In the vast majority of cases, feline breeds are largely differentiated by their coats and temperaments, with relatively few alterations to their anatomy. With the exception of the squishy-faces of Persians, cartilage abnormalities of Scottish Folds, and dwarfism in the Munchkin breed, most cats have the same basic form and function. But, as with any animal that has been selectively bred, there are also some invisible traits that are seen more commonly in purebreds, such as cardiac disease in Maine Coons, diabetes in the Burmese, and kidney disease in Persian cats.

So when asked the question “which cat breed is considered to be the healthiest?” my answer is always going to be the moggie.

It’s All About Hybrid Vigor

When a population of cats is allowed to breed without interference, the ultimate result is, quite literally, the opposite of inbreeding. The cats that win the right to reproduce are the healthiest individuals with the strongest genetics, which means that the physical traits that we humans might prefer are rapidly diluted within a few generations. The resultant population contains a mixture of genes that give the greatest chance of survival, and this is known as ‘hybrid vigor’ – strength through outbreeding.

If you look at a population of feral cats – and I’m talking about proper, free-ranging cats, not just the local strays – you might notice that they tend to be mostly short or medium haired, with tabbies, tortoiseshells, black, and white being the most common colors seen. The genes for these coat colors are dominant, so when cats aren’t being selected for breeding from a limited gene pool, they will eventually take over.

House of the Dominant Genes

In my little gang, we have all the dominant coat colors represented:

They also come from a mixture of backgrounds: 2 strays, 1 re-homed, 2 adopted from unplanned litters, and 0 from breeders. I am not here to cast shade on the world of feline pedigree breeding, I am merely pointing out that the more ‘ordinary’ appearance of moggies is also an indication of health and hybrid vigor.

Never ‘Just a Moggie’

I’m not suggesting that we should be releasing our cats to breed indiscriminately – that’s the last thing I would want to encourage! But I would like us to look beyond appearances before dismissing a non-pedigree cat as inferior when the truth is that cats with more ‘common’ or ‘boring’ coat colors are just flashing their superior genes.

And let’s face it, there is no such thing as an average or ordinary cat – they are all pretty darn special!