Illustration by Brainstorm
The 70-mile stretch of the Great River Road running alongside the Mississippi River between Baton Rouge and New Orleans is one of the most storied sections on the 3,000-mile course of America’s longest national scenic byway. The area (sometimes called the German Coast, as it was settled by German immigrants in the 1700s) is more widely known as the Sugar Coast, a nod to the extensive sugar industry that flourished along the shores of the river in the 1800s (and remains an important part of Louisiana’s economy today). By 1860, some 400 plantations lined this stretch of the Mississippi and produced nearly a quarter-million tons of sugar annually. It was a land dominated by wealthy sugar barons and known for the brutal conditions endured by tens of thousands of enslaved persons who worked its sugar cane fields, sugar mills, and boiling houses.
Today, travelers along this portion of the Great River Road will discover a handful of restored plantations, which present the stories of both the planters and the enslaved. Other experiences along the route include a swamp tour through the Atchafalaya Basin, a visit to a storied smokehouse in the Andouille Capital of the World, and a stop at a museum on the former site of the nation’s only leper colony.
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National Hansen’s Disease Museum
Situated on a Louisiana National Guard base in the small town of Carville, this museum educates visitors about the history of Hansen’s disease, also known as leprosy, and illuminates the lives of the more than 5,000 patients that lived in the self-sustaining community between 1894 and 1999. Other exhibits tell the stories of the nuns from the Daughters of Charity order who cared for patients; delve into the historic stigma associated with the chronic infection of the skin and nerves; and explain the importance of the armadillo, which can carry the bacteria that causes Hansen’s disease, in research.
Roberto’s River Road Restaurant
A hidden gem in the tiny town of Sunshine, this roadside restaurant set in a former general store has been drawing crowds since 2001. Weathered clapboard walls are hung with antique mirrors and folk renderings of Louisiana landscapes, and servers bustle about delivering heaping plates of Cajun-inspired specialties such as Shrimp Roberto, two big, seafood-stuffed, bacon-wrapped crustaceans in a white wine and butter sauce, and Catfish Billy, a filet (fried or grilled) topped with crawfish etouffee and served over rice. For something lighter, try the Sensation salad, a Louisiana classic featuring romaine, black olives, and Parmesan tossed in the namesake lemon and garlic dressing.
Photo by Whitney Tomasino
The Last Wilderness Swamp Tours
Unlike many local tour operators that bait alligators to ensure sightings, this family-run outfit in Plaquemine relies on an intimate knowledge of the waters of the Atchafalaya Basin in seeking out wildlife on its ecofriendly, two-hour excursions. Captained by Dean Wilson, executive director of the Atchafalaya Basinkeeper, or his son, Al, who holds a degree in wetlands ecology from LSU, the small boats penetrate deep into the waterways of this largest swamp in North America. In addition to spottings of local wildlife and towering cypress trees, passengers (no more than six) can expect insights on native fauna and flora as well as local culture.
Courtesy Ascension Parish Tourism Commission
Houmas House Estate & Gardens
While the undeniable jewel in the crown of this Darrow estate is the beautifully restored and furnished 1840 mansion, visitors will discover far more on its impressive grounds. Arguably the Disneyland of Louisiana’s sugar plantations, Houmas wows guests with 38 acres of manicured gardens threaded with pathways and studded with fountains, sculptures, and bricked courtyards, as well as a large gift shop stocked with original art, handmade souvenirs, and an impressive selection of books. The estate also operates an inn and three restaurants, including the acclaimed Carriage House (don’t miss its signature curried pumpkin, crawfish, and corn bisque).
Courtesy Ascension Parish Tourism Commission
The Great River Road Museum
An essential stop for travelers interested in learning the history of Louisiana’s sugar country, this expansive museum on the grounds of Houmas House Estate presents an exhaustive record of the hundreds of plantations that once lined the banks of the Sugar Coast. Additionally, mannequins of Louisiana notables—including pirate Jean Lafitte, voodoo priestess Marie Laveau, and former governor Huey Long—people life-sized displays, which also include presentations of yellow fever outbreaks, slave auctions, riverboat gambling, and Mardi Gras celebrations in southern Louisiana.
Photo by Whitney Tomasino
River Road African American Museum
Founded in 1994 by Kathe Hambrick and her brother Darryl, this Donaldsonville institution showcases the Black history of Louisiana’s sugar-producing region and spotlights significant figures in the life of the city, including America’s first Black mayor, Pierre Caliste Landry, elected in 1868, and Leonard Julien Sr. whose 1966 invention of the sugarcane planter revolutionized the industry. Tours of the museum’s campus (which should be booked in advance) begin at the restored Rosenwald School and include stops at the Brazier-Watkins house, a historical doctor’s office, the True Friends Benevolent Society Hall (a major venue on the Chitlin’ Circuit), and a former Episcopalian church.
Courtesy Oak Alley Foundation
Oak Alley Plantation
Perhaps the most recognizable of the River Road plantations—and among the most photographed sites in Louisiana—this estate in Vacherie is known for the twin colonnades of centuries-old oak trees that extend for a quarter mile from the river to the 1839 mansion. Other highlights include guided tours of the “Big House,” historic gardens featuring period plants, and an in-depth exhibition set in six reconstructed slave cabins on the lives of the enslaved persons who built and maintained the property. The plantation also offers several well-appointed cottages for overnight guests, as well as heat-and-serve dinners prepared by the on-site chef and full access to the grounds after hours (an evening stroll down the iconic allée should not be missed).
Whitney Plantation
This groundbreaking 200-acre former plantation in Wallace recounts the history of slavery from the perspective of the enslaved. In addition to more than a dozen preserved structures, the grounds feature sculptor Woodrow Nash’s haunting life-sized statues of enslaved children who lived on the plantation and a poignant installation honoring the approximately 500 persons who participated in the 1811 German Coast Uprising, the largest slave revolt in American history. While interpreter-led tours are offered hourly, opt for the self-guided audio tour, which allows visitors to travel through the exhibits at their own pace for a more intimate and contemplative experience.
Photo by Jarred Zeringue
Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse
Known as the Andouille Capital of the World, LaPlace is renowned for its bold and spicy Cajun sausage, and there’s no better place to score a fat, smoky stick than this landmark butcher shop and meat market in operation since 1950. In fact, when Chef Jarred Zeringue purchased the shop and smokehouse in 2016, he regarded it as an act of cultural preservation (his grandmother shopped there for decades). Stop in for lunch and indulge in a platter of smoked brisket, ribs, and sausage and a bowl of chicken and andouille gumbo.
Photo by Kat Kimball
Destrehan Plantation
Located in the town of Destrehan, the oldest of the plantations along Louisiana’s River Road—in fact, the oldest documented plantation house in the state—was built in the French Colonial style between 1787 and 1790 and transformed in 1840 to a Greek Revival mansion. In addition to teaching visitors about the home’s design and construction, costumed docents explain the unique characteristics of the Code Noir, which governed the treatment of enslaved persons in French territories. A special exhibition on the 1811 German Coast Uprising chronicles the revolt, its aftermath, and the role Destrehan played in the events.
Mosca’s
In 1946, Provino and Lisa Mosca opened this classic Italian restaurant in a white clapboard building they rented from Carlos Marcello, who frequented the establishment for decades as he rose through the ranks of the New Orleans Mafia to become the city’s top crime boss. The lore lends the Westwego institution (now operated by Provino’s daughter-in-law and granddaughter) a certain shady appeal (or nefarious verve), and the jukebox loaded with Sinatra and Dino records adds to the ambiance. But it’s the freshly prepared staples such as Oysters Mosca, fresh oysters topped with Italian seasoning and breadcrumbs then baked, and Spaghetti Bordelaise, a buttery New Orleans original, that keep the joint hopping.
This article appears in the Summer 2025 issue of Southbound.
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Kevin Benefield
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