Malic Acid Is The Perfect Alternative To Retinol For Sensitive Skin

So what is malic acid? It’s an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that can be found in fruits like apple, plums, cranberries, and grapes; its presence in grapes makes it a big deal for wine makers. As for its use in skincare products, as an alpha hydroxy acid, it works as an exfoliator to brighten skin and unclog pores, notes Well + Good. It can also reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation, aka age spots. Plus, it’s a humectant, so it helps keep skin hydrated and healthy.

The reason that malic acid is particularly good for sensitive skin is because of its chemical structure; its molecules are larger than other acids, like glycolic acid, according to Byrdie. Larger molecules equal less skin penetration, which means less chance of irritation. Though there is a flip side to that size issue. Malic acid may do a lot of the same things that a retinol-based product can do, but it just isn’t as effective because of the reduced skin penetration. That’s true as well when it’s compared to other alpha hydroxy acids.