Category: Home & Garden

Late winter and early spring is a great time to start seedlings and get the gardening season underway. Growing your seedlings from seed is highly rewarding and can open doors to even more species that are not often found in garden centers. However, a couple of problems can sometimes curb the indoor green thumb and seriously affect the success of growing seedlings.

Fungus gnats and damping-off are two afflictions that commonly affect gardeners. However, before you spend money on expensive chemicals, the solution to these problems may be much more low cost that you suspect.

Fungus gnats These tiny, black insects seem innocuous enough as they buzz over your plants. While the adults rarely cause any problems to plants, if the young larvae are in large numbers, they can damage your seedlings.

Fungus gnats search out moist soil in which to lay their eggs. When the eggs hatch, the larvae feed on the roots of your plants. Healthy seedlings will often be able to withstand this feeding, but seedlings with small root systems like onions and leeks and those showing symptoms of nutrient stress can be put back quite significantly.

The easiest way to prevent fungus gnats is to water your plants properly. Overwatering, which causes your potting mix to remain moist for extended periods of time, seems to attract fungus gnats. If your plants are already infected, allow the soil to dry out between watering. Alternatively, sprinkle a ¼” of sand on top of your soil to confuse the adults. Since the sand drains water quickly, it can sometimes trick the adults into thinking the soil is dry.

Potting mixes containing peat seem to be particularly affected by fungus gnats. If the problem is reoccurring for you, think about switching from a peat-based mix to one that only contains perlite and vermiculite. Lastly, if the adult fungus gnats are bothersome, trap them by making your own sticky trap. The adults are attracted to the color yellow. Make your own sticky trap by smearing Vaseline or Tanglefoot on a yellow surface and hang it up close to where the adults congregate.

Damping-off

Not only will controlling your watering help to prevent fungus gnats, it will prevent the second most common problem, damping-off. This condition is caused by several fungi such as Phtophtora and Pythium.

These fungi live at the soil line, just where air meets the moist soil surface. When overwatering keeps your potting soil continuously moist, the fungi attack your seedlings. The telltale symptom is a constricted stem, just at or below the soil surface. Once seedlings are infected, they tend to fall over at the soil line.

As mentioned, allowing the soil surface to dry out will go a long way in preventing this problem.

If, for some reason, your potting mix remains wet for an extended period of time, look to your kitchen cabinet to help prevent the disease. Cinnamon powder is a natural fungicide and has been shown to be particularly effective against damping-off. In addition, Weak chamomile tea (after it has cooled) is another natural fungicide.

Ensuring seedling success need not be complicated or expensive. Controlling your watering and a few homemade remedies will go a long way to guaranteeing healthy seedlings. Arzeena is an agronomist and gardenwriter for Organic Living Newsletter.

Home Remedies for Fungus Gnat and Damping-Off Control

by Arzeena Hamir

Free Garden Catalog

And on the first day of the week, Mary Magdalen cometh early, when it was yet dark, unto the sepulchre; and she saw the stone taken away from the sepulchre. She ran, therefore, and cometh to Simon Peter, and to the other disciple whom Jesus loved, and saith to them: They have taken away the Lord out of the sepulchre, and we know not where they have laid him. Peter therefore went out, and that other disciple, and they came to the sepulchre. And they both ran together, and that other disciple did outrun Peter, and came first to the sepulchre. And when he stooped down, he saw the linen cloths lying; but yet he went not in.

Then cometh Simon Peter, following him, and went into the sepulchre, and saw the linen cloths lying, And the napkin that had been about his head, not lying with the linen cloths, but apart, wrapped up into one place. Then that other disciple also went in, who came first to the sepulchre: and he saw, and believed. For as yet they knew not the scripture, that he must rise again from the dead. The disciples therefore departed again to their home.

But Mary stood at the sepulchre without, weeping. Now as she was weeping, she stooped down, and looked into the sepulchre, And she saw two angels in white, sitting, one at the head, and one at the feet, where the body of Jesus had been laid. They say to her: Woman, why weepest thou? She saith to them: Because they have taken away my Lord; and I know not where they have laid him. When she had thus said, she turned herself back, and saw Jesus standing; and she knew not that it was Jesus. Jesus saith to her: Woman, why weepest thou? whom seekest thou? She, thinking it was the gardener, saith to him: Sir, if thou hast taken him hence, tell me where thou hast laid him, and I will take him away.

Jesus saith to her: Mary. She turning, saith to him: Rabboni (which is to say, Master). Jesus saith to her: Do not touch me, for I am not yet ascended to my Father. But go to my brethren, and say to them: I ascend to my Father and to your Father, to my God and your God. Mary Magdalen cometh, and telleth the disciples: I have seen the Lord, and these things he said to me. Now when it was late that same day, the first of the week, and the doors were shut, where the disciples were gathered together, for fear of the Jews, Jesus came and stood in the midst, and said to them: Peace be to you. And when he had said this, he shewed them his hands and his side. The disciples therefore were glad, when they saw the Lord.

He said therefore to them again: Peace be to you. As the Father hath sent me, I also send you. When he had said this, he breathed on them; and he said to them: Receive ye the Holy Ghost. Whose sins you shall forgive, they are forgiven them; and whose sins you shall retain, they are retained.

-from The Gospel According to St. John

Tree trimming, also known as pruning, is an important part of overall tree care. It involves hiring a qualified tree care company for the removal of dead, diseased, and unnecessary branches from the tree. The process of tree trimming helps to improve the general health of the tree and helps to stabilize the inner structure. Trees are also a vital component of any landscaping design. And a well-cared for tree will add beauty and value to your property. So, it is important to keep them looking their best with regular pruning.

Here are the top four reasons why tree trimming is important:

1. To improve tree health and enhance new growth.
2. To keep your home and yard beautiful.
3. To provide safety.
4. To encourage fruit production.

To improve tree health and enhance new growth.

A key reason for tree trimming is to improve the overall health of the tree and enhance new growth. Through the process of tree trimming, dead, diseased, and unnecessary limbs are removed from the tree. The increased air circulation and sun exposure to the remaining branches promotes the healthy growth of the tree and helps to prevent diseases. The pruning process also helps the overall health of the tree because the removal of the diseased limb prevents the further spread of the disease to the healthy parts of the tree. Also, by removing unnecessary branches the tree can focus its resources on new growth. Proper tree trimming leads to a healthier structure and a tree that is stronger and less in need for future corrective pruning.

To keep your home and yard beautiful

Another important reason to trim trees is that it keeps your home and yard looking beautiful. First, pruning trees improves the appearance of the trees themselves. By removing dead, diseased, and unnecessary branches the trees will maintain their natural shape. This improves not only their appearance but your curb appeal. Next, by keeping your trees pruned you improve the sightlines to your surroundings. Because when a tree is overgrown it can block that view of nature right out your window. Next, tree trimming helps to increase sunlight exposure in your home. When overgrown branches in front of a window block the light pruning will lead to an increase in the amount of light coming into your home. Lastly, tree trimming can improve the appearance of your lawn and other plants. Overgrown trees prevent sunlight and rain from reaching the grass and plants that are underneath them which can lead to poor growth. By removing extra branches, the sunlight and rain are able to reach the other plants and they can become healthier and more attractive.

To improve safety

Improving safety is another important reason to regularly trim trees. Dead branches or those that are weakened by disease are a potential safety concern. This is especially true during a storm with high winds or heavy rain. Trees that are located near power lines are of particular concern because they pose a fire hazard. It’s also important to trim trees with limbs that hang over the roof because they have the potential to severely damage the structure if they fall. Another area of concern is branches that cover walkways or areas where children play as they have a higher risk of injury from falling limbs or branches. Regular tree maintenance can prevent damage to property and serious injury to you and your family.

To encourage fruit production

If you have a fruit tree, whether apple, orange or lemon, one of the important reasons for tree trimming is to increase the production of fruit. Firstly, pruning the tree of the dead and diseased branches increases the overall health of the tree. This allows the tree to be more productive as a healthier tree is known to produce more fruit. Trimming trees also decreases the volume of branches that the tree has to maintain. This is important to fruit production because it allows the tree to store the excess energy and use it for fruit production.  Next, tree trimming removes the dead branches that encourage infestation by insects that can lead to poor health and poor fruit production. By pruning, you decrease the risk of insects and diseases that weaken the health of the tree and lower the production of fruit. Lastly, pruning helps the tree to develop spurs, which are needed to promote fruit production the next year.

Other reasons for trimming trees

Besides the top four reasons for trimming trees there are several other benefits that can come with regular tree maintenance:

• Preventing the occurrence of leaf disease.
• Decreasing the incidence of pest infestations.
• Ensuring the flow of traffic and pedestrians.
• Ensuring a clear view of road signs.

Prevent the occurrence of leaf disease

A common disease that can affect trees is leaf disease. These leaf diseases can be caused by bacteria, viruses, or fungi. These disease-causing organisms are more likely to exist on overgrown trees because of the increased moisture retained by the extra foliage. By regularly trimming the unnecessary branches of the tree it improves the air circulation to the remaining branches and foliage. This improved air circulation helps to get rid of any excess moisture and reduced the occurrence of further leaf disease. Also, by removing any diseased branches during pruning it will protect the healthy branches from the spread of the leaf disease.

Decrease the incidence of pest infestation

There are many different types of insects and other pests that call the trees in your yard home. When the leaves and branches of those trees become thick and overgrown it allows these pests to survive more easily. This can become a potential hazard not only to the health of your trees but could lead to a possible infestation of your home and associated damage. By pruning your branches to a proper thickness, it reduces the number of insects and other pests that are present around your yard. This is a benefit not only to your trees, but it also reduces your potential need for pest control services.

Can improve the flow of traffic and pedestrians

Streets, driveways, bike trails, sidewalks, and footpaths need to remain open and free from obstruction to allow for the continued flow of traffic and pedestrians. An overgrown tree located near these areas can pose a possible risk to this flow. Untrimmed trees, with dead or diseased branches, are more likely to have limbs fall and land in the streets, driveways, bike trails, sidewalks, and footpaths making them more difficult to use and impede the flow of traffic and pedestrians. With proper trimming, your trees will improve the flow of the traffic and pedestrians in your area. 

Ensure a clear view of road signs

Road signs are an important and necessary feature because they help to direct us while we are driving and provide safety. So, it is important that they are visible to all motorists. This could become an issue if they are located near trees that are overgrown. By properly trimming your trees you ensure that branches don’t grow in a way that obstructs the view of any road signs, thereby keeping them fully visible for all drivers.

After finding out about the reasons for tree trimming, it is important not to take care of your maintenance needs by yourself. Improper trimming can damage or possibly even kill your trees.

To some, the Monarch Butterfly is a symbol of hope and perseverance.  It is my hope we all can add some resilience to this remarkable pollinator.  Like all pollinators, the Monarch is facing serious threats and possibly extinction.  Recently their sightings in my location have been few and far between.  They have suffered from loss of habitat, herbicides, climate change, pesticides, and illegal logging in Mexican forests. These butterflies are one of the most recognizable insects on our planet.  It has beautiful bright orange wings with edges bordered in black with white spots.  The wings have black veins. Its name was chosen by early settlers. Its title name was in honor of King William III of England who was formerly the Prince of Orange.  Don’t confuse it with the Viceroy Butterfly which has black lines across its hind wings.

The Viceroy Butterfly The Monarch is famous for its arduous 2,000-3,000 mile journey from North America to Mexico. These are the original “snowbirds” of our area. These creatures have the longest migratory journey of any of their own species. This winter trip and navigation remain a mystery. Some scientists believe they have an internal compass and also ultraviolet light sensors in their antennae.

Over the past several years, I too have noticed a significant decline in my personal sightings. This prompted my interest.   On further inquiry, I found I was not alone in this observation. In my fact-finding, it was estimated that there has been a 90% decrease in their numbers (reported by Garcia-Serrano -The Monarch Butterfly: Biology and Conservation, 2004).  Many individuals, scientists, and concerned groups have noticed a sharp decline in their numbers.  I will confine my writings to the Eastern Monarch Butterfly, of which I am more regionally familiar. The Western Monarch population has suffered an even steeper decline. There is a significant concern that this unique butterfly could vanish completely.

Why be concerned about the Monarch?  We all watch bees, butterflies and other pollinators go from bloom to bloom without a thought about the important work they do.  The pollination process is vital to our food sources, our survival, and the natural world.  Pollination allows the production of our fruit, vegetables, nuts, and seeds.  Ultimately this affects our food supply. We cannot live on bread alone. The Monarch reflects the battle that all our pollinators are facing for survival. These “little things ‘ are important food for birds, fish, and animals. They filter our water and clean up our waste. They are truly the “engines” that run our world. It is not hard to see what we are doing to our environment. Trees are bulldozed for crops.

Marginal lands are planted and the earth is pounded with herbicides and pesticides. Our previously environmentally sound habitat for us and all pollinators is being lost. Our “developed” agriculture has decreased habitat, made pollinator food deserts, and showered them with pesticides. The decline in the milkweed population is directly correlated with the severe loss of 90% of the Monarch population.  Our current fence row to fence row planting – and elimination of fence rows- has led to habitat loss. We are converting to factory farming and urban development.  Modern herbicides sterilize fields and buffer strips. We lose 6,000 acres of habitat each day (The Monarch Watch.org).  Walk through any field of corn and soybeans and you won’t find weeds (except those that are glyphosate-resistant).  Interestingly, milkweed will survive tillage but not the herbicide.  These external forces kill milkweed, native nectar plants and decimate the Monarch. What can you do?  First, be aware of this serious problem.  It will take each of us, individually, to make a difference.   Plant milkweed and nectar plants native to your area.  Check out the Xerces Society.  Interestingly, this society was named after the first butterfly to become extinct in North America.

Milkweed is in the Genus Asclepius (God of Medicine and healing).  There are many regional varieties.  They can be propagated by rootstock and seed.  They rely on pollinators to produce seeds.  When mature they produce pods filled with seeds and attached fluff (nature’s parachute).  When mature the pods open and the seeds sail to new horizons.  Contrary to its name, the milkweed is not a noxious weed.  You can harvest mature dry pods for seeds to plant. The pods are “ripe” when they are about to split or crack open.  You can remove the fluff from the seed if you wish.  Place the fluff/seed content in a paper bag and add a few “lucky” pennies.  Close and shake the bag.  Create a small hole in the bottom corner of the bag and filter out the seeds.  The seeds can be planted in the fall or stored in a refrigerator for spring.  The seeds require “stratification ie refrigeration”-conditions similar to natural conditions for germination.  Plant them an inch deep, cover and moisten.  They will grow in containers. I often just let the seeds go on their journey and release them in the wind.  The best time is October through December.  Often this superficial scattering is adequate.  The location should have 6 hours of full sun each day.  Be an environmental activist and scatter the seeds.

The sign I made for our local Monarch Way Station Create a Monarch Way Station.  The milkweed is the “heart” of the Monarch’s survival.  These are the only plants on which the Monarch lays its eggs and the larvae will eat.  The milkweed is the sole sustenance of the infant Monarch (eggs, larvae, and caterpillar).  These plants are crucial to producing the next generation.   The larvae and caterpillars consume the milkweed leaves which contain a poison not harmful to them.  The milkweed has a latex milky substance containing a cardiac toxin (cardenolide glycoside) which is toxic to predators’ hearts.  The adult Monarch retains this toxin.  Unfortunately, the milkweed is becoming seriously endangered.  Find out what Milkweed is native to your area.  My home state of Wisconsin has 14 milkweed varieties.  Nectar sources are very important for adults. Some nectar plants, but not inclusive, are coneflowers, Joe Pye weed, black-eyed Susan, and goldenrod.  Adults need nectar for their food source during their 2-6 weeks of life.  The plants need to bloom at different times throughout the season to provide food.  Make a way station of Milkweed and nectar plants.

                Monarch on my planted “Butterfly Weed” plant

A female Monarch can lay 300-500 eggs in their short lifetime.  Less than 10% of these eggs achieve adult adulthood. The eggs are laid on the underside of the Milkweed leaves.  The eggs “hatch” out in 3-4 days. When the larvae hatch and are about ⅓ inch and after 5 molts (instars) they are 2 inches long in 4-6 days. The early larvae shed their skin like kids outgrowing their clothes. The “adolescent” caterpillar is easily identified by white, yellow and black transverse bands.

Monarch caterpillar

            The last wardrobe change is completely different.  The caterpillar makes a “sleeping mat” and string attachment on the leaf.  The caterpillar hangs upside down from the string and curves its body upward. The old ‘clothing” -exoskeleton- is shed and a new “hammock” coat is worn (chrysalis) for 8-12 days until emergence.
 

The Chrysalis: 

The adult Monarch will emerge, pumping fluid into their wings which will give them shape.  They dry off and fly away to mate and eat.  This cycle is repeated every 2-6 weeks. In the chrysalis, the caterpillar’s mouth is converted from chewing parts to straws to suck nectar.   The emerging butterfly will have significantly enhanced eyesight.  The mature Monarchs will have functional reproductive organs with the exception of the last summer generation.  These are the migratory travelers who will seek the warmth of Mexico.  They can’t have children interfering with their flight plans.  This last-generation stores fat for the trip.  They actually live on this fat reserve until they return to take up reproduction. A fun project for kids is to raise Monarchs.  You’ll need two plastic containers with lids -one small and a larger one with lids.  The small one is for the first week and the larger deeper one for the second week.  Check your milkweeds for eggs looking at the undersurface of the leaves.  The eggs are clear to yellow with longitudinal grooves.  Place the egg-bearing leaf in the small container with an underlying moistened paper towel. Check the container every 2 days and add fresh milkweed leaves. Remove “frass” which is the caterpillar waste.  Make sure the paper towel is mildly moist.  Place the grown caterpillars in the larger container and let them form their chrysalis. After the Kings and Queens emerge, let them dry for 3-4 hours and set them free. There is some controversy that you may pre-select a weaker gene pool of adults.  In the wild, only the strong survive. There are butterfly kits you can buy but note they are illegal in California.  I do believe our time is better spent on habitat conservation and preservation of our natural world.  This is a great way to introduce kids to the natural world. They will be fascinated.

The Monarch to some carries a spiritual meaning.  The butterfly undergoes “ birth, life, death, and transformation”.   For some, there is a connection to their ancestors.  They have internal compasses for migration and perpetuity.   They have the ability to track seasons and their innate senses aid migration.  They are creatures of light. I highly recommend the book “The Butterfly Effect” by Andy Andrews. Small changes can have a profound effect on our world. Some societies associate the Monarch with the spirits of those who have passed on.  I personally think of the Monarch as representing our own Life Journey. Their fate and ours depend on how we treat our environment.  Will we remain in the cocoon of self-indulgence and destroy the very world we inhabit?  You can create a healthy habitat in your native place.  Begin today to be the change.

Article written by Everett Lindsey

Community gardens are a great way to bond with your neighbors and improve your town. When everyone works together to accomplish the same goal, you’ll form lifelong friendships and make your city a better place. Read these 10 tips for starting a community garden so you can lead the effort to create one where you live.

1. Start a Virtual Group

Working together is much easier when there aren’t any communication issues. A virtual group helps with that. Whether you make one on social media or start a website, invite everyone to check it out. They’ll find posts with the latest updates and any other information they need to know so no one feels left out of the process.

2. Form a Budget

New community gardens need a budget. You’ll have to pay for seeds and supplies, money to create a Facebook ad, but how much money will you need? It depends on your group’s gardening vision. Check your personal funds or ask for donations, then plan a starting budget that stretches every dollar. You can always expand that budget as your group grows or gains community sponsors.

3. Start Seeds Inside

Rural or urban gardens can start seeds in indoor pots to ensure their survival. Every plant will get the chance to form a robust root system in a controlled environment. When you rehome them into your community garden, they’ll thrive because they’re ready to go.

4. Reach Out Regularly

After your garden begins, reach out regularly with a newsletter so critical information reaches all of your group members. Even if you make daily online posts, some people aren’t on social media. Send a newsletter through emails or physical copies so no one feels lost as your garden grows.

Community gardens typically exist on vacant lots, which requires contacting your city hall. Inquire about any potential plots to discover if the city already has plans for them or potential buyers. If they grant permission, you could buy or lease it from them after getting any necessary permits.

6. Test Your Soil

Even if you find a gorgeous place for your garden, the soil may not support your plants. Before you grab a shovel, perform a soil test to determine the nutrient content and pH level. A local or state-sponsored testing laboratory should return your results within a few weeks, which will indicate what you need to add or change about your plot to make it a suitable home for a garden.

7. Research Seasonal Plants

Everyone can meet up in your garden throughout the year if you plan for seasonal plants that thrive in your local weather. Some flowers and vegetables love cold climates, while others prefer hot weather. Plan for future seasons so your community garden never has to shut down.

8. Add Creative Decor

Don’t forget to decorate your garden once you decide where to plant everything. People will love sitting on a bench or watching birds jump around in a birdbath. You could even host a painting event where everyone decorates your fence or signs so their personalities add a little creativity to your garden.

9. Schedule Routine Maintenance

Even though you want people to have fun in your community garden, you’ll still have to take care of routine maintenance. Your plants will need standard care like weeding and pest control, which members might shy away from because they aren’t the most entertaining parts of gardening.

Get ahead of arguments about sharing responsibilities by making a maintenance schedule. Everyone can pitch in when it’s their day and avoid feeling like they’re contributing more than other members.

10. Address Your Priorities

Before your garden begins, meet with everyone and address your priorities. Talk about if you want your garden to be completely organic so no one buys chemical-based fertilizers or pesticides. Ask if people want to grow flowers or harvest vegetables for neighbors in need.

Record your priorities and post them where they’ll serve as encouragement and motivation on your group website or in a physical meeting space.

These 10 tips make starting a community garden much more manageable. Address your goals, form a budget and streamline your communication so it’s a relaxing and enjoyable experience for everyone who volunteers their time.

Author Bio:

Jane is the editor-in-chief of Environment.co. She is passionate about sustainability, gardening and homesteading.

 

 

YOU KNOW how it goes, especially in those tempting first spring-like days: You’re barely out of bed before you’re out in the garden having at it. And then, by day’s end, your body’s screaming that maybe, just maybe, you overdid it a little.

Well, let’s slow down and get more mindful, and take better care of our most important gardening tool: our body. Let’s get GardenFit, with help from Season 2 of the public-television program by that name, with help from its creator.

Madeline Hooper, a former public-relations executive and passionate gardener, created the GardenFit program in 2022 for public television. The format is a series of visits to private gardens nationwide, combined with lessons with the gardener behind each landscape on how to garden smarter, how to fine-tune our movements to maximize performance and minimize injury. Now Season 2 has just debuted, and she shared some of the tuneups she learned along the way.

Read along as you listen to the April 1, 2024 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

staying fit as a gardener, with madeline hooper

 

Margaret Roach: Hi. Are you GardenFit, Madeline?

Madeline Hooper: I am GardenFit.

Margaret: I did what I said in the introduction. I ran out there on the first springy-like day and could barely get up the stairs by the evening [laughter].

Madeline: That’s always a tough day.

Margaret: Right. It’s like with food, sometimes our eyes are bigger than our stomachs or whatever. Tell us, just quickly, the basic conceit of GardenFit, and then also about the kinds of gardens you visited this year, because it’s kind of like a road trip and also this learning not just about gardens, but about taking care of ourselves.

Madeline: I’d love to. I think enthusiasm is a word you can associate with most gardeners. I do the same thing that you just did [laughter]. And in being so enthusiastic, I pretty much overdid it all the time. As you know, I really felt very strongly that once I actually got a solution to using my body correctly by seeing a trainer and learning things that just never came up before—how to bend, how to lift, how to get up and down from the ground—all the things that gardeners do endlessly. It’s easy to stress your body, obviously, with all these repetitive rather physical moves or tasks.

And so, I got really excited because I think all of us should not lose our enthusiasm, just lose the aches and pains that go with it [laughter]. That was fun and it was fun visiting so many people because like everyone, Margaret—and you’ve written about so many of these people—their gardens and their environment are so special and it’s just a treat to match the personality and the creativity of a person with how they actually garden. I think people will enjoy seeing that.

Margaret: Right.

Madeline: Especially in Season 2, because in Season 1, we visited people whose profession or absolute hobby, obsession, was gardening. In Season 2, we visited people who were artists in a lot of different fields, but they also garden passionately. That was a big difference.

Margaret: There’s kind of a theme within the tour around the country, of gardens in all different regions.

Madeline: Exactly. Yeah.

Margaret: I think underscoring sort of the whole show, and I watched Season 1 and I watched the start of Season 2, sharpening your pruners isn’t enough prep for a day in the garden, is it [laughter]?

Madeline: It isn’t.

Margaret: I mean, the interesting thing is, and you said it in your introduction there, we know before we play a sport, even when we’re in school, they make us warm up or when we go to the gym, they make us warm up. Everything else physical, there’s a warmup. There’s a prep. But with gardening, we just race out the door and we start wildly doing things.

Do you warm up? Is that part of becoming GardenFit?

Madeline: Well, I do warm up because I’ve been taught to do that and I have the benefit of actually making that a habit. When I walk out, literally with my most important garden tool with me, just going to get my tools, I already start warming up when I’m walking. I’ll clasp my hands behind my back, Margaret, and then it opens up my chest. As I breathe and let them slope down my back, I really feel this stretch, and I’m opening myself up not only physically, but I even think mindfully to my garden.

A lot of the things that you can do just walking to get your shovel or wheelbarrow is really exciting. I practice turning my arms inside and rotating them outside and just getting ready to prune correctly, and just different things that I feel get me even more excited about gardening, believe it or not. It’s not something that I feel these warmups or even cool downs are in the way. Now, it’s actually part of my garden routine. That’s exciting and I hope people kind of get that, that this just adds to the joy of gardening and also lessens any aftereffects.

Margaret: Right, exactly. You said make a habit and really that’s what GardenFit, I mean, that’s one of the principles, isn’t it? That we need to make these sort of new habits.

Madeline: It is. This season, I worked with a great trainer and personal trainer in Season 1, and for Season 2, I’m working with Adam Schersten, who is also a personal trainer, but his expertise is also posture and mindful ways to use the body correctly.

And so, in order to make a habit, your body has to feel like it’s in a better place. If you learn the right parts of your body to use, the right joints to use as opposed to the ones that unfortunately your body goes into sometimes—I still don’t understand why, but naturally. I mean, people bend and they bend incorrectly, meaning that if you do that a lot, your back’s going to hurt. If you do it the correct way, using the right joints and the right muscles, it’s a joy; it even strengthens your body. I think it’s just this idea of absorbing this training, if you will, to the sport of gardening. Just like what you were saying, Margaret.

Margaret: In the first couple of seasons, would you say there’s some sort of, if you had to say the things I would tell you—the high points that I would tell you other gardeners to be mindful of, careful of, to concentrate on, whatever—are there a few key tips, so to speak? You were mentioning bending and so forth. Are there a couple that over and over again at each garden that you go to in this year again of these artists who also garden, where over and again, you discussed that same thing with almost everybody, that we all need to remember [laughter]?

Madeline: Yeah. I think there are a few things. These are really Adam’s points more than mine. I learned from him a whole new perspective about how you stack your spine. A lot of people talk about posture. A lot of our guests, Frances Palmer, the ceramicist, she really wanted to talk posture. And so, this idea of putting your body in the right alignment so you remember it. Even if you have to bend, you’re not going to be able to stay in perfect posture as soon as you start getting active, but you can go back to it when you’re done with that task and it kind of rights the body again. This idea of aligning your body correctly was something that we shared with everybody, whether it was on camera or not. This is one of Adam’s key principles, body alignment.

Margaret: Stacking the spine. Being aware of that.

Madeline: Another key thing that we found a lot of gardeners asking about and, actually unfortunately, not doing correctly yet, was when people reach high or reach up, they tend to reach not only with their arm, but their shoulder comes up. That’s a real good way of hurting your shoulders. This idea of learning how the right shoulder control, about how to have your shoulders and your shoulder blades going down your back so you can just raise your arm without also hunching up. That really saves a lot of aches and pains. So that was kind of a constant theme. [Below, When reaching high keep shoulders down, creating space between your head and shoulders and relieving strain from shoulder muscles.]

Margaret: Obviously, people can watch episodes and see these principles that you’re talking about in action because it is hard, in some cases, to describe with the shoulder and not reaching with your shoulder, but reaching with your arm and the right shoulder position and so forth.

Madeline: It is. Right. Exactly.

Margaret: But that would be demonstrated…

Madeline: In pretty much every single episode, Adam has new ways of thinking, literally, about how you’re using your body while you’re gardening. He shows people how to massage certain areas that are typically aggravated, how to strengthen them, as well as the right body movements. I think if people watch that, by the end they would be GardenFit [laughter].

Margaret: Right. Right. I mean, one thing that I remember from Season 1, and I wonder, I’m pretty sure it would come up again because so much of gardening is one-sided, one-handed, so to speak. I was raking the other day in my ridiculous first foray outside [laughter], and I mean I still feel it a week later. Do you know what I mean? The one side that does most of the work, I’m right-handed, and the one side that sort of turns and makes most of the effort, I can feel where I was raking. And so, I remember in Season 1 you talked about being becoming ambidextrous. Now, is that something that you were talking about with people this season as well?

Madeline: Yes. I mean, I think that’s a theme throughout. To use your body correctly, you need to use both sides [laughter]. It’s just such common sense. But again, because we have a favorite hand or a side that we use all the time, that’s a habit that has to change into a better habit. I can honestly say now I never use one side of my body whether I’m digging, clipping, hauling things, pulling a tarp. I always change sides, and it has become absolutely normal for me so I don’t feel like I’m not using the right side anymore. It’s amazing how quickly your body, again, will accept a better way to do things.

Margaret: But the first time, if I’m raking in the one direction as a right-handed person, and then I go to do it to the other side because you sort of taught me about it last a couple of years ago and so forth and it’s in my mind, the first few times, I don’t want to do it. I don’t like it. I don’t feel efficient. I don’t feel as strong. Do you know what I mean? I have to push past that hesitation, right?

Madeline: Right.

Margaret: And say, “No, but this is going to be O.K. and this is going to get better.”

Madeline: I sort of liken this to the fact that we all know that the hole we’re putting the new plant in has to be bigger or deeper to a certain extent, and you push yourself. You’re tired and you want to get that plant in so badly, but you make the hole the right size. That’s how you have to feel when you’re using the new side of your body because really, I’m sure, I hope by now it’s easy for you, Margaret, or a lot easier to rake both ways.

Margaret: It does. It definitely comes in time. But the first few times you try to do it, it doesn’t feel natural and you want to go to your stronger, your dominant, side. That’s your inclination. You’ve been doing it for years.

Madeline: I think part of that, I mean, I can only speak for myself, I don’t want to assume that everybody’s like this, but when I’m doing garden tasks, I’m hurrying to get them done. I’m not really enjoying my body while I’m doing it. I think that’s part of understanding like you just started our discussion about your body being your most important tool, enjoy that. It’s fun to train the other side as opposed to, “Oh dear, I’m never going to feel good doing it this way.”

I think if you have that good attitude about, “Oh my goodness, gardening is using your body correctly,” it comes easier. There are less barriers.

Margaret: I think in Season 2, and I can’t remember if it was in Season 1 as well, but I think you even sort of get down to the level of being more mindful of how we even do something as small, in a way, small seeming, as how we grip our pruning shears. Do you know what I mean?

Madeline: Yes.

Margaret: And so, tell us about what seems like finesse, but it’s not because our hands get really exhausted after years of gardening.

Madeline: Exactly. I must say, this is something that Adam really changed a habit for me almost instantly. You’ll see in one of our episodes, it’s the one where we went to New Orleans and the gentleman, Leslie, loves to prune. He really has this Japanese pruning craze in his head about all plants. Adam showed him where to place the pruners in his hand so that he’s not using the thumb joint, he’s really just using the fingers and the pruners rest in the middle of your palm. I don’t know if that’s helpful, Margaret, if that sounds right.

Margaret: Well, when you said it, I’m right away feeling the base of my thumb, which is where I have all the pain from all the years of letting the handle rub there.

Madeline: Right. Exactly. Just place it down a little further, really almost smack in the middle of your palm again, and just let your fingers do the actual effort of squeezing it against your palm, not against that thumb joint, which so easily gets really painful.

Margaret: Well, and that’s where a lot of people get arthritis, with anything that they do repetitively with one hand, that’s the key place for some great arthritis and so forth eventually.

Madeline: One little trick that I found was trying to learn to use my other hand, when you’re deadheading and you sort of follow the stem, if you’re deadheading a hosta flower and you just let the clippers slip down that stem to the bottom and then you clip, I found that that was such an easy guide that sometimes it was so much easier to use the other hand to actually deadhead with. Now, I deadhead almost all the time with the other hand. They’re little tricks that each of us will learn to make it again easier to be ambidextrous.

Margaret: I mean, I think that one of the other things that’s very hard on bodies of any age is all the kneeling. A lot of times we’re on ground that’s even on hardscape. You know what I mean? People are kneeling and you’re trying to get to something and you’re kneeling and you’re reaching across a bed and whatever. And so, any advice there for kneeling? I mean, because it’s-

Madeline: Well, again, I have to just sort of repeat what Adam has said to me: Use a knee pad. A knee pad that’s attached to your clothes, that you literally put on your knees, or one that you use on the ground. Now, I have done that, because it is a lot of pressure, your whole body weight, just think about that when you’re on your knees. I think it’s important to use a knee pad and do a lot of weeding or groundwork using a knee pad.

We also still love this squat position, which we call the armchair in Season 1 [below], which is really… I do a lot of work in pruning and working close to the ground, like weeding, in that position, too, because I feel it strengthens my body. I like the feel of that now.

Margaret: Right. The armchair position is an improved version of sort of crouching, of getting way down there. But it’s an improved, a smarter version.

Madeline: Right. Well, and it’s because it allows you to put the weight of your body by putting your hand on one leg. Then you have one hand free to weed with. If you don’t have to use both hands for the weeds that you’re trying to get up, it’s really a way of cutting down on so much stress on your body. It’s great.

Margaret: Right. I was curious about, you said you went to all these artists’ gardens, and you mentioned Frances Palmer, the ceramic artist, and so forth. Any others that you just want to, just a couple of examples of another-

Madeline: Well, we went to this artist, Jose Alvarez, and Jose started a 2-acre tropical garden in Fort Lauderdale by himself. Now, the plants are so gigantic, it’s a whole jungle environment. Because he’s a visual artist, he does absolutely beautiful paintings. They’re very abstract, but they’re very colorful and they almost look like his garden to me now, even though of course nothing.

I mean, it’s interesting, Margaret, how these artists, whether they were musicians, or we went to visit Alice Waters, who certainly started the whole farm-to-table movement and is so concerned about what we grow and that we consume food that’s close to where we live. It has so many wonderful, important things to teach people about health and gardens. I feel all of them are so inspired by nature. They do take the time to look and listen. I don’t think they could live a day without being in their garden.

That was really impressive because these people are busy and have huge lives, and a lot of them traveled. We visited this woman, Cynthia Meyers, who is the flautist for the Boston Symphony Orchestra. When they’re in session, she can’t even be home in her garden, which is pollinating plants. I mean, she’s the person, I don’t know if I mentioned this to you, who literally has gardens full of what I would call weeds, because she just loves letting whatever seeds are in the soil around her home grow. She just cultivates them in such an interesting way.

I feel like I learned a lot from each guest gardener this season about why they made the choices they did, and what’s in their garden. There’s a bigger variety of types of gardens, I think, too.

Margaret: I was going to ask, you were talking about how important it’s been for you to learn about warming up, but do you have an Achilles heel, ha ha? Was there something that when you started doing this show that you hoped most to find a solution for or mitigate in some way? Did you have a particular thing? Some people it’s knees, or some people it’s backache or whatever.

Madeline: Yes [laughter]. Definitely. My upper shoulder area on my back to my neck hurt me every morning. I would get up every morning and really have pain or, unfortunately, a headache. That part of me just seems to be where all the tension goes. And then, on top of that, doing all the activities that I was doing. If somebody had taken a picture of me, Margaret, how I used to garden, I would look like I was creating stress to my body [laughter] or literally it would be painful.

Margaret: Become a gardener, get more stressed [laughter].

Madeline: Yes. I think we do that for other reasons. I think, again, just learning the correct form, the way to use my body. When I bend over, or I think one of my key things is if I’m deadheading again, I put one foot in the direction I’m bending so that I can keep my back straight and not hunched up and just use my hip joints. I’m bending from my hip, not from my back. I don’t have to hunch over anymore. The relief of that, again, changes the joy and of course takes away the pain.

Margaret: That probably took a while though to retrain your brain to say, “O.K., wait a minute. No, no. Point the foot. Follow the hip.”

Madeline: I think that, again, watching the show or even our socials, there’s repetitive visuals of that. I don’t do it exactly right all the time. I probably don’t even do it exactly right half the time, but now I’m aware when I’m not in the right position and I know how to correct it. That’s sort of part of the journey of getting GardenFit.

I mean, we’re all human. I’m going to bend over and pick up something that I dropped on the floor. I’m not going into the armchair all the time, although I find that I laugh at myself, because I find that I’m overdoing certain good form things just to do simple tasks [laughter].

Margaret: Taking it to an extreme, huh?

Madeline: Yes, definitely.

Margaret: From this season especially, were there other things that you saw that were like a light bulb for the most people that really you kept hearing over and again, and people really appreciated? Any other-

Madeline: Yeah. One more light bulb that I think, again, is one of Adam’s key things, is that if you could just picture yourself shearing a hedge with a lopper, and your arms and your elbows tend to be pointed outward, and if you rotate them in, and then just, again, use whatever tool you’re using, if they’re clippers, you’ll feel less stress in your shoulders and your arms. You can use your wrists to make the adjustment to hold the tool correctly. That was a huge aha for a lot of our guests. They love that idea.

Margaret: Not the elbows flaring out when we’re using a big cutting tool like a lopper or shears.

Madeline: Right. Exactly. Make sure that they’re turning in. And then, you can adjust again, your hands, your wrists, to turn any way you want to make it comfortable. But that was a big aha, I think. I think it was a big aha for people about how to get up and down from the ground, because in a lot cases, Adam showed the right alignment so when you are getting up, if you’re on two knees, or if you’re just working on even one knee and the other leg is up in front, to make sure your body’s aligned in a certain way where that hip isn’t out or in a position where if you got up when you’re not aligned, you really would be straining your hips and your back.

I think there’s a lot of, again, visual understanding of what your body can and should look like in the show. And then, people can easily follow it. Everything’s easy. Nothing requires exercises or exercise equipment. It’s just stuff we can do in the garden.

Margaret: Right. I love the idea though, of even if each of us listening does nothing else this year but what you were describing, and it was making a mental image for me, on our way out to the garden before we get to the garage to get our shovel or whatever, just stretching those arms and clasping them behind us and lifting them and lowering them and maybe rotating our shoulders. You know what I mean? Just if nothing else, if we just warm up for three minutes, I think that’s-

Madeline: Yep, it would make such a difference. Exciting.

Margaret: And so the new season is underway, huh?

Madeline: It is. Every week now, there will be a new episode. You can see it on pbs.org/GardenFit or look at your local TV listings. I’m really excited. It’s kind of out there [laughter].

Margaret: Good for you. The other thing, we minimized this, but it’s no small matter: incredible gardens. I mean, the pictures I saw that they shared with me. I mean, if you just want to watch it for the garden touring is great, too.

Madeline: I hope so.

Margaret: Thank you so much.

watch ‘gardenfit’

prefer the podcast version of the show?

MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 15th year in March 2024. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the April 1, 2024 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

The detailed floral and design material have broad appeal.

Raven’s online nursery does not ship outside the UK, so try not to fall in love with the specific cultivars mentioned, as they may not be available from nurseries in your location.

Instead, familiarize yourself with the general characteristics of species, like dahlias and tulips, and work with the flowers available to you at the appropriate times of year for your Zone.

Between the Covers

A warm introduction describes and illustrates the scope of container gardening that takes place at Perch Hill, and assures readers that they will be privy to the “recipes” for creating similarly spectacular vessels in their own outdoor living spaces per a month-by-month guide.

A design section follows that details the importance of crucial elements, such as the selection of compatible plants that bloom at the same time or in succession.

Subsections on color and form describe the traditional “thriller,” “spiller,” “filler” formula complemented by the addition of a stand-out “pillar” variety for an added wow factor.

Next are month-by-month breakdowns with flower-specific subsections, or tasks like bulb planting, that take place during the designated time frame.

Here is where you’ll need to adapt the recommendations to your specific growing zone.

The subsections on particular flowers are in-depth and informative, and include species such as amaryllis, dahlia, nemesia, petunia, salvia, tulip, and viola.

In addition, there are skill-building sections on topics like deadheading, making fertilizer, preparing pots for planting, and taking cuttings of perennials for propagation.

There are also instructions for forcing amaryllis and hyacinth bulbs.

Details like using products such as “John Innes No. 3” are likely of no use to American readers, as this particular product is not available, but fortunately Raven tells us that this is a peat-free bulb compost, and that’s an item we can locate.

‘Verdi’ is a Modern shrub rose which produces sprays of strongly scented, pinkish mauve flowers with shiny green leaves. In general, roses are a large group of flowering shrubs, most with showy flowers that are single-petalled to fully double petalled. Leaves are typically medium to dark green, glossy, and ovate, with finely toothed edges. Vary in size from 1/2 inch to 6 inches, five petals to more than 30, and in nearly every color. Often the flowers are very fragrant. Most varieties grow on long canes that sometimes climb. Unfortunately, this favorite plant is quite susceptible to a variety of diseases and pests, many of which can be controlled with good cultural practices.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: Verdi  
Family: Rosaceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 0 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 0 ft.  
Plant Category: shrubs,  
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,  
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves,  
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, showy,  
Flower Color: pinks, purples, reds,  
Tolerances:  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: not applicable  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 10  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 7.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Some Clay  
Water Range: Normal to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-to : Planting Roses

Plant roses where they will receive full sun (at least 6 hours) and ample moisture and nutrients. Allow adequate spacing (3 to 6 feet apart depending on the climate) as good air circulation will inhibit foliar diseases. Before planting, soak bare root plants in water for several hours to ensure they are well hydrated. Select a soil site that is well drained. For clay soils amend the soil with organic matter or prepare raised beds. Dig a planting hole big enough to spread out the roots completely, once the center of plant has been set atop a mound. Fill hole with water before planting. Remove broken canes or roots and plant the bush so that the graft union (swollen knob from which the canes grow) is just above the soil level. Fill hole with amended soil and water well. Mound rich soil over the graft union to protect it from the sun. Remove this once leaves have appeared. Container grown roses can be planted almost anytime of year and would be done just as if planting a shrub.

Problems

Pest : Thrips

Thrips are small, winged insects that attack many types of plants and thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). They can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 300 eggs in a life span of 45 days without mating. Most of the damage to plants is caused by the young larvae which feed on tender leaf and flower tissue. This leads to distorted growth, injured flower petals and premature flower drop. Thrips also can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down and use screening on windows to keep them out. Remove or discard infested plants, keep them away from non-infested plants. Trap with yellow sticky cards or take advantage of natural enemies such as predatory mites. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Consult your local garden center professional or county Cooperative extension office for legal chemical recommendations.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Black Spot

A known rose disease, Black Spot appears on young leaves as irregular black circles, often having a yellow halo. Circles or spore colonies may grow to 1/2 inch in diameter. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off, only to produce more leaves that will follow the same pattern. Roses may not make it through the winter if black spot is severe. The fungus will also affect the size and quality of flowers.

Prevention and Control:Plant resistant varieties for your area. Always water from the ground, never overhead. Practice good sanitation – clean up and destroy debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. When pruning roses, even deadheading, dip pruners in a bleach / water solution after each cut. If a plant seems to have chronic black spot, remove it. A 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch at the base of plant reduces splashing. Do not wait until black spot is a huge problem to control! Start early. Spray with a fungicide labeled for black spot on roses.

Diseases : Blight

Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.

Miscellaneous

How-to : Winter Protection for Roses

F. Start off by keeping your plants healthy and vigorous going into the winter – continue to water them properly until the ground freezes. Stop feeding at least 6 weeks before the first frost date as this is the time to start hardening off the plants for the winter. In really cold climates, after a couple of hard freezes, mound soil or heavy mulch 1 foot over the base of plant to protect the graft union. Cut back long canes to 4 foot lengths and bind them together to prevent injury in the winter. Remove soil mounds after all danger of hard frost has passed in the spring.

In milder climates, this process is not necessary, but a good layer of mulch and continued watering up to frost and periodically through winter is a good idea. The best time to prune no matter where you live is at the end of the dormant season, when buds are beginning to swell.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Plant Images

Acer cappadocicum is a spreading deciduous tree with bright green, oval leaves that turn yellow in the autumn. The leaves are composed of 5 to 7 entire lobes. Blooms in erect umbels of pale yellow flowers followed by winged fruit. The cultivar, ‘Rubrum’ is a large tree of the same shape and habit as the species. Young leaves are purple with green undertones, turning green later. Fall color is yellow. Suitable for a street tree.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: Rubrum  
Family: Aceraceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 50 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 0 ft.  
Plant Category: landscape, trees,  
Plant Characteristics: seed start, spreading,  
Foliage Characteristics: deciduous,  
Flower Characteristics: erect,  
Flower Color: yellows,  
Tolerances: deer, wind,  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: Early Spring to Mid Spring  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 6 to 8  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Part Shade to Sun  
pH Range: 7 to 8.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Loam  
Water Range: Normal to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Young Plants

Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Partial Shade

Partial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.

Conditions : Types of Pruning

Types of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating.

Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.

Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood.

Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.

Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look.

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Moist

Moist is defined as soil that receives regular watering to a depth of 18 inch deep, does not dry out, but does not have a drainage problem either.

Conditions : Outdoor Watering

Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:

* The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1′ being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.

* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.

* Don’t wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).

* Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.

* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.

Planting

How-to : Pruning Trees After Planting

It is critical to prune trees correctly from the beginning to assure proper growth and development. Young trees can be transplanted in a number of forms: bare root, balled & burlap and in containers. The more stress the plant undergoes in the transplant process, the more pruning that is required to compensate.

Deciduous trees like maples (those that loose their leaves in the fall) can be dug up and sold with their bare roots exposed. Because most of the root system is lost in digging, sufficient top growth should be removed to compensate for this loss. This may be done at the nursery before you buy the plant or you may have to prune at the time of planting. Select and head back the best scaffold branches, i.e. those branches which will form the main lateral structure of the future mature tree. Remove all other extraneous side branches. If the tree seedling does not have branches, allow it to grow to the desired height of branching then pinch it back to stimulate the lower buds to form branches.

Ball and burlap trees are dug up with their root systems somewhat intact. This was mostly done for conifers and broadleaf evergreens, but has become common for deciduous trees as well. Since some root mass is lost in the digging stage, a light pruning is generally called for. Head back the plant to compensate for this loss and to promote branching.

Trees that are grown in containers generally do not loose roots in the transplanting phase. Therefore you do not generally have to prune them unless there is some root injury or limb damage in the planting process.

Once you have your trees planted, be patient. Do not remove shoots from the trunk early on as these allow the tree to grow more rapidly and also shade the tender young trunk from sun-scald. Wait a few years to begin training the tree to its ultimate form.

How-to : Staking Trees

Staking is done differently depending on the size and flexibility of the tree, and the windiness of the planting site. Generally only trees that are planted in windy, exposed locations need to be staked. For most trees, a low stake is preferred, to let the tree move naturally. For windy areas or flexible trees, use a high stake. For trees more than 12 feet tall, use two low stakes on opposite sides of the tree or several guy ropes. The ties used need to accommodate growth and not cause bark damage with friction. Buckle-and-spacer ties can be found at garden centers, they are expandable and have a protective spacer. Ties without spacers should be formed into a figure eight to create padding. Latest studies have shown that when staking a tree, provide enough leeway so that the tree can move back and forth in the wind. Stronger roots will develop this way. If the tree can not move back and forth, these important roots will not develop and the tree might fall over during a storm, once stakes are removed. When planting a tree, stake at the time of planting if staking is a necessity.

How-to : Planting a Tree

Dig out an area for the tree that is about 3 or 4 times the diameter of the container or rootball and the same depth as the container or rootball. Use a pitchfork or shovel to scarify the sides of the hole.

If container-grown, lay the tree on its side and remove the container. Loosen the roots around the edges without breaking up the root ball too much. Position tree in center of hole so that the best side faces forward. You are ready to begin filling in with soil.

If planting a balled and burlaped tree, position it in hole so that the best side faces forward. Untie or remove nails from burlap at top of ball and pull burlap back, so it does not stick out of hole when soil is replaced. Synthetic burlap should be removed as it will not decompose like natural burlap. Larger trees often come in wire baskets. Plant as you would a b&b plant, but cut as much of the wire away as possible without actually removing the basket. Chances are, you would do more damage to the rootball by removing the basket. Simply cut away wires to leave several large openings for roots.

Fill both holes with soil the same way. Never amend with less than half original soil. Recent studies show that if your soil is loose enough, you are better off adding little or no soil amendments.

Create a water ring around the outer edge of the hole. Not only will this conseve water, but will direct moisture to perimeter roots, encouraging outer growth. Once tree is established, water ring may be leveled. Studies show that mulched trees grow faster than those unmulched, so add a 3″” layer of pinestraw, compost, or pulverized bark over backfilled area. Remove any damaged limbs.

Problems

Diseases : Verticillium or Fusarium Wilt

Wilts may be contracted through infected seed, plant debris, or soil. This fungus begins and multiplies during the cool, moist season, becoming obvious when weather turns warm and dry. Plants wilt because the fungus damages their water conducting mechanisms. Overfertilization can worsen this problem. Able to overwinter in soil for many years, it is also carried and harbored in common weeds.

Prevention and Control: If possible, select resistant varieties. Keep nitrogen-heavy fertilizers to a minimum as well as over-irrigating as they encourage lush growth. Practice crop rotation and prune out or better yet remove infected plants.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies

Fungus Gnats or Shore fliesare small pesky flies which can often be a nuisance inside the home. About the size of fruit flies, they can be seen running on the soil surface of pots. They seem to favor wet soil conditions and may thrive in mixes containing hardwood bark or manure. While the worm-like larvae can cause root damage and adults can transmit plant diseases, they rarely cause severe plant damage.

Possible controls: avoid over-watering soil. Another option: use labelled insecticidal drenches against the juvenile stages. Adults can be controlled with recommended insecticides, as well. Encourage natural enemies such as parasitic nematodes in the garden.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Leaf Spots

Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.

Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.

Pest : Scale Insects

Scales are insects, related to mealy bugs, that can be a problem on a wide variety of plants – indoor and outdoor. Young scales crawl until they find a good feeding site. The adult females then lose their legs and remain on a spot protected by its hard shell layer. They appear as bumps, often on the lower sides of leaves. They have piercing mouth parts that suck the sap out of plant tissue. Scales can weaken a plant leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Prevention and Control: Once established they are hard to control. Isolate infested plants away from those that are not infested. Consult your local garden center professional or Cooperative Extension office in your county for a legal recommendation regarding their control. Encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden.

Miscellaneous

Conditions : Fall Color

Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.

Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Glossary : Deciduous

Deciduous refers to those plants that lose their leaves or needles at the end of the growing season.

Glossary : Tree

Tree: a woody perennial with a crown of branches that begin atop a single stem or trunk. The exception to this rule is multi-trunk trees, which some may argue are really very large shrubs.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Plant Images

‘Bon Silene Blanc’ is a repeat-flowering rose which produces large, pale yellow blooms that fade to white. Growth is compact and vigorous. In general, roses are a large group of flowering shrubs, most with showy flowers that are single-petalled to fully double petalled. Leaves are typically medium to dark green, glossy, and ovate, with finely toothed edges. Vary in size from 1/2 inch to 6 inches, five petals to more than 30, and in nearly every color. Often the flowers are very fragrant. Most varieties grow on long canes that sometimes climb. Unfortunately, this favorite plant is quite susceptible to a variety of diseases and pests, many of which can be controlled with good cultural practices.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: Bon Silene Blanc  
Family: Rosaceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 4 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 3 ft.  
Plant Category: edibles, shrubs,  
Plant Characteristics: edible flowers, high maintenance,  
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous,  
Flower Characteristics: double, fragrant, showy,  
Flower Color: whites, yellows,  
Tolerances:  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: Early Summer to Late Summer  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 10  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 7.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Some Clay  
Water Range: Normal to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-to : Pruning Flowering Shrubs

It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1. By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yielding in less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower production.

Pruning deciduous shrubs can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches, can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new growth which produces summer flowers – in other words, flowers appear on new wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing.

Examples: Minimal: Amelanchier, Aronia, Chimonanthus, Clethra, Cornus alternifolia, Daphne, Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Poncirus, Viburnum. Spring: Abelia, Buddleia, Datura, Fuchsia, Hibiscus, Hypericum, Perovskia, Spirea douglasii/japonica, Tamarix. Summer after flower: Buddleia alternifolia, Calycanthus, Chaenomeles, Corylus, Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Forsythia, Magnolia x soulangeana/stellata, Philadelphus, Rhododendron sp., Ribes, Spirea x arguta/prunifolia/thunbergii, Syringa, Weigela. Suckering: Kerria

How-to : Planting Shrubs

Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and deep enough to plant at the same level the shrub was in the container. If soil is poor, dig hole even wider and fill with a mixture half original soil and half compost or soil amendment.

Carefully remove shrub from container and gently separate roots. Position in center of hole, best side facing forward. Fill in with original soil or an amended mixture if needed as described above. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If the plant is balled-and-burlapped, remove fasteners and fold back the top of natural burlap, tucking it down into hole, after you’ve positioned shrub. Make sure that all burlap is buried so that it won’t wick water away from rootball during hot, dry periods. If synthetic burlap, remove if possible. If not possible, cut away or make slits to allow for roots to develop into the new soil. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If shrub is bare-root, look for a discoloration somewhere near the base; this mark is likely where the soil line was. If soil is too sandy or too clayey, add organic matter. This will help with both drainage and water holding capacity. Fill soil, firming just enough to support shrub. Finish by mulching and watering well.

How-to : Planting Roses

Plant roses where they will receive full sun (at least 6 hours) and ample moisture and nutrients. Allow adequate spacing (3 to 6 feet apart depending on the climate) as good air circulation will inhibit foliar diseases. Before planting, soak bare root plants in water for several hours to ensure they are well hydrated. Select a soil site that is well drained. For clay soils amend the soil with organic matter or prepare raised beds. Dig a planting hole big enough to spread out the roots completely, once the center of plant has been set atop a mound. Fill hole with water before planting. Remove broken canes or roots and plant the bush so that the graft union (swollen knob from which the canes grow) is just above the soil level. Fill hole with amended soil and water well. Mound rich soil over the graft union to protect it from the sun. Remove this once leaves have appeared. Container grown roses can be planted almost anytime of year and would be done just as if planting a shrub.

How-to : Planting Perennials

Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup, seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees.

The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop and not have to compete with developing top growth as in the spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established sized plant.

To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water the plant thoroughly and let the excess water drain before carefully removing from the container. Carefully loosen the root ball and place the plant in the hole, working soil around the roots as you fill. If the plant is extremely root bound, separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are okay, but should be kept to a minimum. Continue filling in soil and water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until stable.

To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread roots and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun until stable.

To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift the seedling and as much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly until stable.

Problems

Pest : Thrips

Thrips are small, winged insects that attack many types of plants and thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). They can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 300 eggs in a life span of 45 days without mating. Most of the damage to plants is caused by the young larvae which feed on tender leaf and flower tissue. This leads to distorted growth, injured flower petals and premature flower drop. Thrips also can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down and use screening on windows to keep them out. Remove or discard infested plants, keep them away from non-infested plants. Trap with yellow sticky cards or take advantage of natural enemies such as predatory mites. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Consult your local garden center professional or county Cooperative extension office for legal chemical recommendations.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Black Spot

A known rose disease, Black Spot appears on young leaves as irregular black circles, often having a yellow halo. Circles or spore colonies may grow to 1/2 inch in diameter. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off, only to produce more leaves that will follow the same pattern. Roses may not make it through the winter if black spot is severe. The fungus will also affect the size and quality of flowers.

Prevention and Control:Plant resistant varieties for your area. Always water from the ground, never overhead. Practice good sanitation – clean up and destroy debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. When pruning roses, even deadheading, dip pruners in a bleach / water solution after each cut. If a plant seems to have chronic black spot, remove it. A 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch at the base of plant reduces splashing. Do not wait until black spot is a huge problem to control! Start early. Spray with a fungicide labeled for black spot on roses.

Diseases : Blight

Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.

Miscellaneous

How-to : Cut Flowers

Flowers suitable for cutting maintain their form for several days when properly conditioned and placed in water or soaked oasis. A cut flower should have a fairly strong, long stem, making it easy to work with in arrangements. There are many short stem flowers that make good cut flowers too, but they look best when floated in a bowl or clustered and placed in a juice glass size vase.

For best results, always cut flowers early in the morning, preferably before dew has had a chance to dry. Always make cuts with a sharp knife or pruners and plunge flowers or foliage into a bucket of water. Store in a cool place until you are ready to work with them, this will keep flowers from opening. Always re-cut stems and change water frequently. Washing vases or containers to rid of existing bacteria helps increase their life, as well.

Edibles : Edible Flowers

Some flowers are edible or have edible portions that are not only beautiful, but nutritious and tasty. Buds, flowers, leaves, stems, and roots are selected from designated edible varieties. Plant as you would a regular flower, but use only organic practices. If you are not a total organic gardener, separate growing areas should be used for the growing of edible flowers.

When portions of edible flowers are desired, pull petals or edible portions from fresh flowers and snip off the petals from the base of the flower. Remember to always wash flowers thoroughly making certain any residue or dirt has been removed. Give them a gentle bath in water and then dip the petals in ice water to perk them up. Drain on paper towels. Petals and whole flowers may be stored for a short time in plastic bags in refrigeration. Freeze whole small flowers in ice rings or cubes. Make sure you know what the flower is before you eat it; have an accurate identification done.

Glossary : Mass Planting

Mass is one of the elements of design and relates directly to balance. Mass planting is defined as the grouping of three or more of the same type of plants in one area. When massing plants, keep in mind what visual effect they will have. Small properties require smaller masses where larger properties can handle larger masses or sweeps of plants.

Glossary : Deciduous

Deciduous refers to those plants that lose their leaves or needles at the end of the growing season.

Glossary : Perennial

Perennial: traditionally a non-woody plant that lives for two or more growing seasons.

Glossary : Shrub

Shrub: is a deciduous or evergreen woody perennial that has multiple branches that form near its base.

Glossary : Fragrant

Fragrant: having fragrance.

Glossary : Plant Characteristics

Plant characteristics define the plant, enabling a search that finds specific types of plants such as bulbs, trees, shrubs, grass, perennials, etc.

Glossary : Flower Characteristics

Flower characteristics can vary greatly and may help you decide on a “”look or feel”” for your garden. If you’re looking for fragrance or large, showy flowers, click these boxes and possibilities that fit your cultural conditions will be shown. If you have no preference, leave boxes unchecked to return a greater number of possibilities.

Glossary : Edibles

An edible is a plant that has a part or all of it that can be safely consumed in some way.

How-to : Getting the Most Out of Cut Flowers

Cut flowers bring the garden into your home. While some cut flowers have a long vase life, most are highly perishable. How cut flowers are treated when you first bring them home can significantly increase how long they last.

The most important thing to consider is getting sufficient water taken up into the cut stem. Insufficient water can result in wilting and short-lived flowers. Bent neck of roses, where the flower head droops, is the result of poor water uptake. To maximize water uptake, first re-cut the stems at an angle so that the vascular system (the “”plumbing”” of the stem) is clear. Next immerse the cut stems in warm water.

Remember when the flower is cut, it is cut off from its food supply. Once water is taken care of, food is the resource that will run out next. The plants stems naturally feed the flowers with sugars. If you add a bit of sugar (1 tsp.) to the vase water, this will help feed the flower stems and extend their vase life.

Bacteria will build up in vase water and eventually clog up the stem so the flower cannot take up water. To prevent this, change the vase water frequently and make a new cut in the stems every few days.

Floral preservatives, available from florists, contain sugars, acids and bacteriacides that can extend cut flower life. These come in small packets and are generally available where cut flowers are sold. If used properly, these can extend the vase life of some cut flowers 2 to 3 times when compared with just plain water in the vase.

How-to : Winter Protection for Roses

F. Start off by keeping your plants healthy and vigorous going into the winter – continue to water them properly until the ground freezes. Stop feeding at least 6 weeks before the first frost date as this is the time to start hardening off the plants for the winter. In really cold climates, after a couple of hard freezes, mound soil or heavy mulch 1 foot over the base of plant to protect the graft union. Cut back long canes to 4 foot lengths and bind them together to prevent injury in the winter. Remove soil mounds after all danger of hard frost has passed in the spring.

In milder climates, this process is not necessary, but a good layer of mulch and continued watering up to frost and periodically through winter is a good idea. The best time to prune no matter where you live is at the end of the dormant season, when buds are beginning to swell.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Glossary : Fertilize

Fertilize just before new growth begins with a complete fertilizer.

Glossary : Pruning

Now is the preferred time to prune this plant.

Plant Images

‘Violaine’ is a Hybrid Tea rose which produces large, very fragrant mauve flowers. In general, roses are a large group of flowering shrubs, most with showy flowers that are single-petalled to fully double petalled. Leaves are typically medium to dark green, glossy, and ovate, with finely toothed edges. Vary in size from 1/2 inch to 6 inches, five petals to more than 30, and in nearly every color. Often the flowers are very fragrant. Most varieties grow on long canes that sometimes climb. Unfortunately, this favorite plant is quite susceptible to a variety of diseases and pests, many of which can be controlled with good cultural practices.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: Violaine  
Family: Rosaceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 0 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 0 ft.  
Plant Category: shrubs,  
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,  
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves,  
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, showy,  
Flower Color: purples, reds,  
Tolerances:  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: not applicable  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 10  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 7.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Some Clay  
Water Range: Normal to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-to : Planting Roses

Plant roses where they will receive full sun (at least 6 hours) and ample moisture and nutrients. Allow adequate spacing (3 to 6 feet apart depending on the climate) as good air circulation will inhibit foliar diseases. Before planting, soak bare root plants in water for several hours to ensure they are well hydrated. Select a soil site that is well drained. For clay soils amend the soil with organic matter or prepare raised beds. Dig a planting hole big enough to spread out the roots completely, once the center of plant has been set atop a mound. Fill hole with water before planting. Remove broken canes or roots and plant the bush so that the graft union (swollen knob from which the canes grow) is just above the soil level. Fill hole with amended soil and water well. Mound rich soil over the graft union to protect it from the sun. Remove this once leaves have appeared. Container grown roses can be planted almost anytime of year and would be done just as if planting a shrub.

Problems

Pest : Thrips

Thrips are small, winged insects that attack many types of plants and thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). They can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 300 eggs in a life span of 45 days without mating. Most of the damage to plants is caused by the young larvae which feed on tender leaf and flower tissue. This leads to distorted growth, injured flower petals and premature flower drop. Thrips also can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down and use screening on windows to keep them out. Remove or discard infested plants, keep them away from non-infested plants. Trap with yellow sticky cards or take advantage of natural enemies such as predatory mites. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Consult your local garden center professional or county Cooperative extension office for legal chemical recommendations.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Black Spot

A known rose disease, Black Spot appears on young leaves as irregular black circles, often having a yellow halo. Circles or spore colonies may grow to 1/2 inch in diameter. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off, only to produce more leaves that will follow the same pattern. Roses may not make it through the winter if black spot is severe. The fungus will also affect the size and quality of flowers.

Prevention and Control:Plant resistant varieties for your area. Always water from the ground, never overhead. Practice good sanitation – clean up and destroy debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. When pruning roses, even deadheading, dip pruners in a bleach / water solution after each cut. If a plant seems to have chronic black spot, remove it. A 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch at the base of plant reduces splashing. Do not wait until black spot is a huge problem to control! Start early. Spray with a fungicide labeled for black spot on roses.

Diseases : Blight

Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.

Miscellaneous

How-to : Winter Protection for Roses

F. Start off by keeping your plants healthy and vigorous going into the winter – continue to water them properly until the ground freezes. Stop feeding at least 6 weeks before the first frost date as this is the time to start hardening off the plants for the winter. In really cold climates, after a couple of hard freezes, mound soil or heavy mulch 1 foot over the base of plant to protect the graft union. Cut back long canes to 4 foot lengths and bind them together to prevent injury in the winter. Remove soil mounds after all danger of hard frost has passed in the spring.

In milder climates, this process is not necessary, but a good layer of mulch and continued watering up to frost and periodically through winter is a good idea. The best time to prune no matter where you live is at the end of the dormant season, when buds are beginning to swell.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Plant Images

‘Wini Edmunds’ is a Hybrid Tea rose which produces large, double, bright red flowers with lighter pink and white undersides. Foliage is tough, dark green. In general, roses are a large group of flowering shrubs, most with showy flowers that are single-petalled to fully double petalled. Leaves are typically medium to dark green, glossy, and ovate, with finely toothed edges. Vary in size from 1/2 inch to 6 inches, five petals to more than 30, and in nearly every color. Often the flowers are very fragrant. Most varieties grow on long canes that sometimes climb. Unfortunately, this favorite plant is quite susceptible to a variety of diseases and pests, many of which can be controlled with good cultural practices.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: Wini Edmunds  
Family: Rosaceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 0 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 0 ft.  
Plant Category: shrubs,  
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,  
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves,  
Flower Characteristics: double, erect, showy,  
Flower Color: pinks, reds, whites,  
Tolerances:  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: not applicable  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 7.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Some Clay  
Water Range: Normal to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-to : Planting Roses

Plant roses where they will receive full sun (at least 6 hours) and ample moisture and nutrients. Allow adequate spacing (3 to 6 feet apart depending on the climate) as good air circulation will inhibit foliar diseases. Before planting, soak bare root plants in water for several hours to ensure they are well hydrated. Select a soil site that is well drained. For clay soils amend the soil with organic matter or prepare raised beds. Dig a planting hole big enough to spread out the roots completely, once the center of plant has been set atop a mound. Fill hole with water before planting. Remove broken canes or roots and plant the bush so that the graft union (swollen knob from which the canes grow) is just above the soil level. Fill hole with amended soil and water well. Mound rich soil over the graft union to protect it from the sun. Remove this once leaves have appeared. Container grown roses can be planted almost anytime of year and would be done just as if planting a shrub.

Problems

Pest : Thrips

Thrips are small, winged insects that attack many types of plants and thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). They can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 300 eggs in a life span of 45 days without mating. Most of the damage to plants is caused by the young larvae which feed on tender leaf and flower tissue. This leads to distorted growth, injured flower petals and premature flower drop. Thrips also can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down and use screening on windows to keep them out. Remove or discard infested plants, keep them away from non-infested plants. Trap with yellow sticky cards or take advantage of natural enemies such as predatory mites. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Consult your local garden center professional or county Cooperative extension office for legal chemical recommendations.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Black Spot

A known rose disease, Black Spot appears on young leaves as irregular black circles, often having a yellow halo. Circles or spore colonies may grow to 1/2 inch in diameter. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off, only to produce more leaves that will follow the same pattern. Roses may not make it through the winter if black spot is severe. The fungus will also affect the size and quality of flowers.

Prevention and Control:Plant resistant varieties for your area. Always water from the ground, never overhead. Practice good sanitation – clean up and destroy debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. When pruning roses, even deadheading, dip pruners in a bleach / water solution after each cut. If a plant seems to have chronic black spot, remove it. A 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch at the base of plant reduces splashing. Do not wait until black spot is a huge problem to control! Start early. Spray with a fungicide labeled for black spot on roses.

Diseases : Blight

Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.

Miscellaneous

How-to : Winter Protection for Roses

F. Start off by keeping your plants healthy and vigorous going into the winter – continue to water them properly until the ground freezes. Stop feeding at least 6 weeks before the first frost date as this is the time to start hardening off the plants for the winter. In really cold climates, after a couple of hard freezes, mound soil or heavy mulch 1 foot over the base of plant to protect the graft union. Cut back long canes to 4 foot lengths and bind them together to prevent injury in the winter. Remove soil mounds after all danger of hard frost has passed in the spring.

In milder climates, this process is not necessary, but a good layer of mulch and continued watering up to frost and periodically through winter is a good idea. The best time to prune no matter where you live is at the end of the dormant season, when buds are beginning to swell.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Plant Images

‘Vi’s Violet’ is a Miniature rose which produces lightly fragrant, double lavender flowers with matt, mid-green leaves. In general, roses are a large group of flowering shrubs, most with showy flowers that are single-petalled to fully double petalled. Leaves are typically medium to dark green, glossy, and ovate, with finely toothed edges. Vary in size from 1/2 inch to 6 inches, five petals to more than 30, and in nearly every color. Often the flowers are very fragrant. Most varieties grow on long canes that sometimes climb. Unfortunately, this favorite plant is quite susceptible to a variety of diseases and pests, many of which can be controlled with good cultural practices.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: Vi S Violet  
Family: Rosaceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 0 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 0 ft.  
Plant Category: shrubs,  
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,  
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves,  
Flower Characteristics: double, erect, fragrant, showy,  
Flower Color: purples, reds,  
Tolerances:  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: not applicable  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 10  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 7.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Some Clay  
Water Range: Normal to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-to : Planting Roses

Plant roses where they will receive full sun (at least 6 hours) and ample moisture and nutrients. Allow adequate spacing (3 to 6 feet apart depending on the climate) as good air circulation will inhibit foliar diseases. Before planting, soak bare root plants in water for several hours to ensure they are well hydrated. Select a soil site that is well drained. For clay soils amend the soil with organic matter or prepare raised beds. Dig a planting hole big enough to spread out the roots completely, once the center of plant has been set atop a mound. Fill hole with water before planting. Remove broken canes or roots and plant the bush so that the graft union (swollen knob from which the canes grow) is just above the soil level. Fill hole with amended soil and water well. Mound rich soil over the graft union to protect it from the sun. Remove this once leaves have appeared. Container grown roses can be planted almost anytime of year and would be done just as if planting a shrub.

Problems

Pest : Thrips

Thrips are small, winged insects that attack many types of plants and thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). They can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 300 eggs in a life span of 45 days without mating. Most of the damage to plants is caused by the young larvae which feed on tender leaf and flower tissue. This leads to distorted growth, injured flower petals and premature flower drop. Thrips also can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down and use screening on windows to keep them out. Remove or discard infested plants, keep them away from non-infested plants. Trap with yellow sticky cards or take advantage of natural enemies such as predatory mites. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Consult your local garden center professional or county Cooperative extension office for legal chemical recommendations.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Black Spot

A known rose disease, Black Spot appears on young leaves as irregular black circles, often having a yellow halo. Circles or spore colonies may grow to 1/2 inch in diameter. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off, only to produce more leaves that will follow the same pattern. Roses may not make it through the winter if black spot is severe. The fungus will also affect the size and quality of flowers.

Prevention and Control:Plant resistant varieties for your area. Always water from the ground, never overhead. Practice good sanitation – clean up and destroy debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. When pruning roses, even deadheading, dip pruners in a bleach / water solution after each cut. If a plant seems to have chronic black spot, remove it. A 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch at the base of plant reduces splashing. Do not wait until black spot is a huge problem to control! Start early. Spray with a fungicide labeled for black spot on roses.

Diseases : Blight

Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.

Miscellaneous

How-to : Winter Protection for Roses

F. Start off by keeping your plants healthy and vigorous going into the winter – continue to water them properly until the ground freezes. Stop feeding at least 6 weeks before the first frost date as this is the time to start hardening off the plants for the winter. In really cold climates, after a couple of hard freezes, mound soil or heavy mulch 1 foot over the base of plant to protect the graft union. Cut back long canes to 4 foot lengths and bind them together to prevent injury in the winter. Remove soil mounds after all danger of hard frost has passed in the spring.

In milder climates, this process is not necessary, but a good layer of mulch and continued watering up to frost and periodically through winter is a good idea. The best time to prune no matter where you live is at the end of the dormant season, when buds are beginning to swell.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Plant Images

Distinctive border perennial with Leaves are narrow, long, and grasslike. This is a sturdy, but graceful plant with few problems and architectural character. Varieties available in both dwarf and larger forms. Primary bloom season is summer. Remove spent flower spikes and old leaves in fall. Good companion plant for daylilies.

Important Info : Flowers attract hummingbirds and can be used in flower arrangements.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: n/a  
Family: Liliaceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 5 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 2 ft.  
Plant Category: perennials,  
Plant Characteristics:  
Foliage Characteristics:  
Flower Characteristics: long lasting,  
Flower Color: oranges, reds, yellows,  
Tolerances: deer, rabbits, seashore, slope,  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: Late Summer to Early Fall  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 8  
Soil Range: Mostly Sand to Loam  
Water Range: Normal to Normal  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials

Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3. organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions as they may vary per product.

Light

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-to : Planting Perennials

Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup, seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees.

The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop and not have to compete with developing top growth as in the spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established sized plant.

To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water the plant thoroughly and let the excess water drain before carefully removing from the container. Carefully loosen the root ball and place the plant in the hole, working soil around the roots as you fill. If the plant is extremely root bound, separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are okay, but should be kept to a minimum. Continue filling in soil and water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until stable.

To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread roots and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun until stable.

To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift the seedling and as much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly until stable.

Problems

Diseases : Rhizactonia Root and Stem Rot

Rhizoctonia is a fungus that is found in most soils and enters the plant through the roots or the stem at soil level. Prevention and Control: First of all, do not overwater and if you suspect Rhizoctonia may be your problem, decrease watering. If a plant is too far gone (all the leaves from the bottom up are wilted), remove it. If your plant is in a container, discard the soil too. Wash the pot with a 1 part bleach to 9 parts water solution. Fungicides can be used, according to label directions. Consult a professional for a legal recommendation of what fungicide to use.

Pest : Thrips

Thrips are small, winged insects that attack many types of plants and thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). They can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 300 eggs in a life span of 45 days without mating. Most of the damage to plants is caused by the young larvae which feed on tender leaf and flower tissue. This leads to distorted growth, injured flower petals and premature flower drop. Thrips also can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down and use screening on windows to keep them out. Remove or discard infested plants, keep them away from non-infested plants. Trap with yellow sticky cards or take advantage of natural enemies such as predatory mites. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Consult your local garden center professional or county Cooperative extension office for legal chemical recommendations.

Miscellaneous

Plant Images

‘Vick’s Caprice’ is a Hybrid Perpetual rose which produces cupped, large, fragrant liliac flowers, striped carmine and white. In general, roses are a large group of flowering shrubs, most with showy flowers that are single-petalled to fully double petalled. Leaves are typically medium to dark green, glossy, and ovate, with finely toothed edges. Vary in size from 1/2 inch to 6 inches, five petals to more than 30, and in nearly every color. Often the flowers are very fragrant. Most varieties grow on long canes that sometimes climb. Unfortunately, this favorite plant is quite susceptible to a variety of diseases and pests, many of which can be controlled with good cultural practices.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: Vick S Caprice  
Family: Rosaceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 4 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 3 ft.  
Plant Category: shrubs,  
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,  
Foliage Characteristics: deciduous,  
Flower Characteristics: double, fragrant, showy,  
Flower Color: pinks,  
Tolerances:  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Mid Fall  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 7.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Some Clay  
Water Range: Normal to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-to : Planting Roses

Plant roses where they will receive full sun (at least 6 hours) and ample moisture and nutrients. Allow adequate spacing (3 to 6 feet apart depending on the climate) as good air circulation will inhibit foliar diseases. Before planting, soak bare root plants in water for several hours to ensure they are well hydrated. Select a soil site that is well drained. For clay soils amend the soil with organic matter or prepare raised beds. Dig a planting hole big enough to spread out the roots completely, once the center of plant has been set atop a mound. Fill hole with water before planting. Remove broken canes or roots and plant the bush so that the graft union (swollen knob from which the canes grow) is just above the soil level. Fill hole with amended soil and water well. Mound rich soil over the graft union to protect it from the sun. Remove this once leaves have appeared. Container grown roses can be planted almost anytime of year and would be done just as if planting a shrub.

Problems

Pest : Thrips

Thrips are small, winged insects that attack many types of plants and thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). They can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 300 eggs in a life span of 45 days without mating. Most of the damage to plants is caused by the young larvae which feed on tender leaf and flower tissue. This leads to distorted growth, injured flower petals and premature flower drop. Thrips also can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down and use screening on windows to keep them out. Remove or discard infested plants, keep them away from non-infested plants. Trap with yellow sticky cards or take advantage of natural enemies such as predatory mites. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Consult your local garden center professional or county Cooperative extension office for legal chemical recommendations.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Black Spot

A known rose disease, Black Spot appears on young leaves as irregular black circles, often having a yellow halo. Circles or spore colonies may grow to 1/2 inch in diameter. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off, only to produce more leaves that will follow the same pattern. Roses may not make it through the winter if black spot is severe. The fungus will also affect the size and quality of flowers.

Prevention and Control:Plant resistant varieties for your area. Always water from the ground, never overhead. Practice good sanitation – clean up and destroy debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. When pruning roses, even deadheading, dip pruners in a bleach / water solution after each cut. If a plant seems to have chronic black spot, remove it. A 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch at the base of plant reduces splashing. Do not wait until black spot is a huge problem to control! Start early. Spray with a fungicide labeled for black spot on roses.

Diseases : Blight

Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.

Miscellaneous

How-to : Winter Protection for Roses

F. Start off by keeping your plants healthy and vigorous going into the winter – continue to water them properly until the ground freezes. Stop feeding at least 6 weeks before the first frost date as this is the time to start hardening off the plants for the winter. In really cold climates, after a couple of hard freezes, mound soil or heavy mulch 1 foot over the base of plant to protect the graft union. Cut back long canes to 4 foot lengths and bind them together to prevent injury in the winter. Remove soil mounds after all danger of hard frost has passed in the spring.

In milder climates, this process is not necessary, but a good layer of mulch and continued watering up to frost and periodically through winter is a good idea. The best time to prune no matter where you live is at the end of the dormant season, when buds are beginning to swell.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Plant Images

‘White Blush’ is a Modern shrub rose which produces clusters of fragrant white flowers.In general, roses are a large group of flowering shrubs, most with showy flowers that are single-petalled to fully double petalled. Leaves are typically medium to dark green, glossy, and ovate, with finely toothed edges. Vary in size from 1/2 inch to 6 inches, five petals to more than 30, and in nearly every color. Often the flowers are very fragrant. Most varieties grow on long canes that sometimes climb. Unfortunately, this favorite plant is quite susceptible to a variety of diseases and pests, many of which can be controlled with good cultural practices.

Google Plant Images: click here!

Characteristics

Cultivar: White Blush  
Family: Rosaceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 0 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 0 ft.  
Plant Category: shrubs,  
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,  
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves,  
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, showy,  
Flower Color: whites,  
Tolerances:  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: not applicable  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun  
pH Range: 5.5 to 7.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Some Clay  
Water Range: Normal to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-to : Planting Roses

Plant roses where they will receive full sun (at least 6 hours) and ample moisture and nutrients. Allow adequate spacing (3 to 6 feet apart depending on the climate) as good air circulation will inhibit foliar diseases. Before planting, soak bare root plants in water for several hours to ensure they are well hydrated. Select a soil site that is well drained. For clay soils amend the soil with organic matter or prepare raised beds. Dig a planting hole big enough to spread out the roots completely, once the center of plant has been set atop a mound. Fill hole with water before planting. Remove broken canes or roots and plant the bush so that the graft union (swollen knob from which the canes grow) is just above the soil level. Fill hole with amended soil and water well. Mound rich soil over the graft union to protect it from the sun. Remove this once leaves have appeared. Container grown roses can be planted almost anytime of year and would be done just as if planting a shrub.

Problems

Pest : Thrips

Thrips are small, winged insects that attack many types of plants and thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). They can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 300 eggs in a life span of 45 days without mating. Most of the damage to plants is caused by the young larvae which feed on tender leaf and flower tissue. This leads to distorted growth, injured flower petals and premature flower drop. Thrips also can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down and use screening on windows to keep them out. Remove or discard infested plants, keep them away from non-infested plants. Trap with yellow sticky cards or take advantage of natural enemies such as predatory mites. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Consult your local garden center professional or county Cooperative extension office for legal chemical recommendations.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Black Spot

A known rose disease, Black Spot appears on young leaves as irregular black circles, often having a yellow halo. Circles or spore colonies may grow to 1/2 inch in diameter. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off, only to produce more leaves that will follow the same pattern. Roses may not make it through the winter if black spot is severe. The fungus will also affect the size and quality of flowers.

Prevention and Control:Plant resistant varieties for your area. Always water from the ground, never overhead. Practice good sanitation – clean up and destroy debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. When pruning roses, even deadheading, dip pruners in a bleach / water solution after each cut. If a plant seems to have chronic black spot, remove it. A 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch at the base of plant reduces splashing. Do not wait until black spot is a huge problem to control! Start early. Spray with a fungicide labeled for black spot on roses.

Diseases : Blight

Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.

Miscellaneous

How-to : Winter Protection for Roses

F. Start off by keeping your plants healthy and vigorous going into the winter – continue to water them properly until the ground freezes. Stop feeding at least 6 weeks before the first frost date as this is the time to start hardening off the plants for the winter. In really cold climates, after a couple of hard freezes, mound soil or heavy mulch 1 foot over the base of plant to protect the graft union. Cut back long canes to 4 foot lengths and bind them together to prevent injury in the winter. Remove soil mounds after all danger of hard frost has passed in the spring.

In milder climates, this process is not necessary, but a good layer of mulch and continued watering up to frost and periodically through winter is a good idea. The best time to prune no matter where you live is at the end of the dormant season, when buds are beginning to swell.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Plant Images

Acer x freemanii belongs in the hybrid group between the red maple (Acer rubrum) and silver maple (Acer saccharinum). These species have been chosen for the autumn color, growth rate and habit.

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Characteristics

Cultivar: n/a  
Family: Aceraceae  
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 70 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 40 ft.  
Plant Category: trees,  
Plant Characteristics: seed start,  
Foliage Characteristics: deciduous,  
Flower Characteristics:  
Flower Color:  
Tolerances:  

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: not applicable  
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 7  
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
Light Range: Part Shade to Sun  
pH Range: 7 to 8.5  
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Loam  
Water Range: Moist to Moist  

Plant Care

Fertilizing

How-to : Fertilization for Young Plants

Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.

How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Partial Sun, Partial Shade

Part sun or part shade plants prefer light that is filtered. Sunlight, though not direct, is important to them. Often morning sun, because it is not as strong as afternoon sun, can be considered part sun or part shade. If you live in an area that does not get much intense sun, such as the Pacific Northwest, a full sun exposure may be fine. In other areas such as Florida, plant in a location where afternoon shade will be received.

Conditions : Full to Partial Sun

Full sunlight is needed for many plants to assume their full potential. Many of these plants will do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily or their foliage as vibrant. Areas on the southern and western sides of buildings usually are the sunniest. The only exception is when houses or buildings are so close together, shadows are cast from neighboring properties. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed sunlight on a sunny day. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun, but more than 3 hours. Plants able to take full sun in some climates may only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture of the plant before you buy and plant it!

Watering

Conditions : Moist

Moist is defined as soil that receives regular watering to a depth of 18 inch deep, does not dry out, but does not have a drainage problem either.

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-to : Pruning Trees After Planting

It is critical to prune trees correctly from the beginning to assure proper growth and development. Young trees can be transplanted in a number of forms: bare root, balled & burlap and in containers. The more stress the plant undergoes in the transplant process, the more pruning that is required to compensate.

Deciduous trees like maples (those that loose their leaves in the fall) can be dug up and sold with their bare roots exposed. Because most of the root system is lost in digging, sufficient top growth should be removed to compensate for this loss. This may be done at the nursery before you buy the plant or you may have to prune at the time of planting. Select and head back the best scaffold branches, i.e. those branches which will form the main lateral structure of the future mature tree. Remove all other extraneous side branches. If the tree seedling does not have branches, allow it to grow to the desired height of branching then pinch it back to stimulate the lower buds to form branches.

Ball and burlap trees are dug up with their root systems somewhat intact. This was mostly done for conifers and broadleaf evergreens, but has become common for deciduous trees as well. Since some root mass is lost in the digging stage, a light pruning is generally called for. Head back the plant to compensate for this loss and to promote branching.

Trees that are grown in containers generally do not loose roots in the transplanting phase. Therefore you do not generally have to prune them unless there is some root injury or limb damage in the planting process.

Once you have your trees planted, be patient. Do not remove shoots from the trunk early on as these allow the tree to grow more rapidly and also shade the tender young trunk from sun-scald. Wait a few years to begin training the tree to its ultimate form.

How-to : Staking Trees

Staking is done differently depending on the size and flexibility of the tree, and the windiness of the planting site. Generally only trees that are planted in windy, exposed locations need to be staked. For most trees, a low stake is preferred, to let the tree move naturally. For windy areas or flexible trees, use a high stake. For trees more than 12 feet tall, use two low stakes on opposite sides of the tree or several guy ropes. The ties used need to accommodate growth and not cause bark damage with friction. Buckle-and-spacer ties can be found at garden centers, they are expandable and have a protective spacer. Ties without spacers should be formed into a figure eight to create padding. Latest studies have shown that when staking a tree, provide enough leeway so that the tree can move back and forth in the wind. Stronger roots will develop this way. If the tree can not move back and forth, these important roots will not develop and the tree might fall over during a storm, once stakes are removed. When planting a tree, stake at the time of planting if staking is a necessity.

How-to : Planting a Tree

Dig out an area for the tree that is about 3 or 4 times the diameter of the container or rootball and the same depth as the container or rootball. Use a pitchfork or shovel to scarify the sides of the hole.

If container-grown, lay the tree on its side and remove the container. Loosen the roots around the edges without breaking up the root ball too much. Position tree in center of hole so that the best side faces forward. You are ready to begin filling in with soil.

If planting a balled and burlaped tree, position it in hole so that the best side faces forward. Untie or remove nails from burlap at top of ball and pull burlap back, so it does not stick out of hole when soil is replaced. Synthetic burlap should be removed as it will not decompose like natural burlap. Larger trees often come in wire baskets. Plant as you would a b&b plant, but cut as much of the wire away as possible without actually removing the basket. Chances are, you would do more damage to the rootball by removing the basket. Simply cut away wires to leave several large openings for roots.

Fill both holes with soil the same way. Never amend with less than half original soil. Recent studies show that if your soil is loose enough, you are better off adding little or no soil amendments.

Create a water ring around the outer edge of the hole. Not only will this conseve water, but will direct moisture to perimeter roots, encouraging outer growth. Once tree is established, water ring may be leveled. Studies show that mulched trees grow faster than those unmulched, so add a 3″” layer of pinestraw, compost, or pulverized bark over backfilled area. Remove any damaged limbs.

Problems

Diseases : Verticillium or Fusarium Wilt

Wilts may be contracted through infected seed, plant debris, or soil. This fungus begins and multiplies during the cool, moist season, becoming obvious when weather turns warm and dry. Plants wilt because the fungus damages their water conducting mechanisms. Overfertilization can worsen this problem. Able to overwinter in soil for many years, it is also carried and harbored in common weeds.

Prevention and Control: If possible, select resistant varieties. Keep nitrogen-heavy fertilizers to a minimum as well as over-irrigating as they encourage lush growth. Practice crop rotation and prune out or better yet remove infected plants.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies

Fungus Gnats or Shore fliesare small pesky flies which can often be a nuisance inside the home. About the size of fruit flies, they can be seen running on the soil surface of pots. They seem to favor wet soil conditions and may thrive in mixes containing hardwood bark or manure. While the worm-like larvae can cause root damage and adults can transmit plant diseases, they rarely cause severe plant damage.

Possible controls: avoid over-watering soil. Another option: use labelled insecticidal drenches against the juvenile stages. Adults can be controlled with recommended insecticides, as well. Encourage natural enemies such as parasitic nematodes in the garden.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Leaf Spots

Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.

Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.

Pest : Scale Insects

Scales are insects, related to mealy bugs, that can be a problem on a wide variety of plants – indoor and outdoor. Young scales crawl until they find a good feeding site. The adult females then lose their legs and remain on a spot protected by its hard shell layer. They appear as bumps, often on the lower sides of leaves. They have piercing mouth parts that suck the sap out of plant tissue. Scales can weaken a plant leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Prevention and Control: Once established they are hard to control. Isolate infested plants away from those that are not infested. Consult your local garden center professional or Cooperative Extension office in your county for a legal recommendation regarding their control. Encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden.

Miscellaneous

Conditions : Fall Color

Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.

Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Glossary : Deciduous

Deciduous refers to those plants that lose their leaves or needles at the end of the growing season.

Glossary : Tree

Tree: a woody perennial with a crown of branches that begin atop a single stem or trunk. The exception to this rule is multi-trunk trees, which some may argue are really very large shrubs.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Plant Images