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At Cerdito Muerto, Emidio Oceguera Plays by His Own Rules

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Emidio Oceguera has managed some of Chicago’s best-known restaurants, including De Cero and Chicago Cut. When he began entertaining the idea of opening his own place, his parents kept him grounded. Their advice ultimately inspired him to launch the Pilsen restaurant Cerdito Muerto in his childhood neighborhood last summer. Oceguera brings unapologetic personal touches to the space and menu. In a Mexican food scene as rich as Chicago’s, Oceguera isn’t interested in chasing trends or being anything but himself.

An evening at Cerdito Muerto feels like an intimate party. The space preserves the spirit of its former billiard-hall tenant with photos of Oceguera’s father shooting pool and cues lining the walls. The soundtrack is ’90s Mexican pop. You might spot doña Consuelo, Oceguera’s mother, warmly chatting with guests.

A first date or for small gatherings. The space is a tight 30 seats; larger groups might find it difficult to have a conversation due to the layout.

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Brenda Storch

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