When Tanta opened in Chicago way back in 2013, it was a pretty big deal. This was Peruvian giant Gastón Acurio’s first Midwest restaurant (and only his second in the U.S., period). Yet, Tanta has stood the test of time as a stylish, innovative representation of Peruvian fare in the River North neighborhood, an area where genuinely interesting restaurants compete a lot for space with chains and touristy destinations.
Lotta dudes. Around happy hour on a weekday, the space was dominated by groups of social men (some coworkers, and others friends catching up), gathering over drinks and raw dishes, with a handful of well-dressed couples on dates thrown in. The energy all takes place against a tasteful backdrop, with dramatic green velvet booths, colorful murals, and oversized plants. The weather didn’t make it an option for us, but the rooftop is another draw in warmer months.
Pisco-based cocktails are generally the move here, with the ability to build your own (by contrast, I wasn’t particularly high on the Tanta Tini martini riff, which felt unbalanced). Check out the specials to see if any interesting seasonal pisco cocktails are available; my drink got a pleasant infusion from smoked eucalyptus. Avoiding alcohol? The cinnamon-tastic version of the traditional purple corn-based chicha morada is one of the best versions I’ve had ($12), one of several nonalcoholic choices.
Tanta’s still getting the job done if you’re in search of well-executed Peruvian fare in an upscale setting; it also seemed friendly to walk-ins, so it’s a good place to consider if you’re visiting, staying in a downtown neighborhood, and haven’t committed to a dinner plan for the evening.
Missy Frederick
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